I wish all reviewers were as excellent as you. I'm 68, have shot for 50 years(Kodachrome, then Fujichrome) and appreciate someone who knows what the hell they are talking about and will admit when they might be wrong on something they aren't sure of. 🎷🌟🌟🌟💯✅
I thoroughly agree with your statement that just because the newer lens is better does not mean the lens being replaced was not good...I love your videos...I enjoy learning some history and background and as a result have picked up a couple of pre-ai lenses and have not been disappointed...thanks for your work!
I bought the 28mm 3.5 in Japan in 1976. When AI came out, I had Nikon update it to factory AI. I used it mostly for landscapes on a tripod. It is about as sharp as they get. At that time, I was into the micro-grain, sharpness cult of using Kodak Technical Pan, shot around ISO 12. 16x20 inch prints held up nicely. Someone once suggested that I was fibbing and had shot those prints with a Rolleiflex or Hasselblad. Oddly, I acquired a minty 28mm 2.0 a few years ago, but I've never owned or used the 28mm 2.8.
I have owned both the 28mm f3.5 and the 28mm f2.8. I'll be darned if I can see any difference between them for the photos I take. I sold the f2.8 version when I was offered three times what I paid for it by some guy who just had to have one. I paid $40 I think for the f3.5 version maybe four years ago, missing its meter prong but otherwise in great shape. I added a prong for $10 and was all set. I use it on film and the images look great. Oddly enough, when used on a second-hand D300, it becomes a surprisingly useful street lens with a 42mm equivalent focal length. Between the D300 and the lens, I've got $150 in the package, so if something happens to it, I won't cry too much. I've been thinking about getting a 24mm Nikkor, but have hesitated because the little 28mm is so useful. I'm not sure there would be enough difference to justify the purchase.
Great video! I recently purchased your book on amazon - wow so much great information. I feel like I have a handle on what camera bodies and lens to look for. Many thanks!!!
I use my Nikkor 28mm 3.5 AI on my D700 and my D7100 all the time. I take this on the D700 even if I have a sigma 24-105 f4, and a couple of other lenses. Very easy to focus and as sharp to satisfy both the D700 and the D7100.
I owned a 28mm/3.5, I think in 1977. It was the older version preceeding the one you showed here. It had a big front lens which barely fit within the 52mm filter thread, a modernised version of the older Nikkor H 28/3.5. Optically, it was crappy, too much distortion and soft in the corners. So bad, I sold it and tried a Tokina 28/2.8 and even a Series E 28/2.8. The Nikkor 28/2.8 at the time was very good but very expensive! Nikon also had a 28/2, which you showed. The model you show in the video came as a replacement of the older 28/3.5 and it was, and still is, excellent.
If you shop for this lens, note the following. The 28mm 3.5 was introduced in 1960, but went through several modifications to the design into the early 1970s. The original lens had some roll off of resolution into the edges and corners, as well as noticeable vignetting. Sometime around 1974, more or less, the lens was fully redesigned optically, noted mainly for replacement of its fairly small exit element diameter with a much larger exit diameter lens element. This change eliminated the prior concern over vignetting. These modifications appear in the last of the pre-AI versions, one of which I purchased new, but to be sure, I'd stay with the AI or AIs versions.
My goal is to have the highest meat & potatoes vs. bubble gum ratio in the genre. No theme music or B-roll here. Just reliable information and candor about the limits of my own knowledge.
I have a Nikkor-H 28mm ƒ3.5 from late 1972 that was professionally AI-converted, and it's been a joy to use, both on film and digital. I agree that it's an underrated lens. Thank you for this fantastic channel, Brian. I discovered it by complete chance and instantly subscribed!
The max aperture makes it tricky to focus in less than good light. Best used hyper-focused as a street photograph lens. I picked up the AIS version in as new condition when everyone was throwing manual glass out, especially f3.5 lenses.
A 28 f2 vs f2.8 AI-S comparison would be interesting. Only comparison I’ve seen it’s hard to pick between them unless pixel peeping in corners and marginal contrast difference.
Thanks for a great review. Over the decades, I have used the following 28mm Nikkor lenses for scenics, landscapes, architecture, large group portraits, environmental portraits, macro, and vacation/travel: Nikkor 28mm f/2.8 AIS (52mm filter) (produces high quality images) Nikkor 28mm f/3.5 pre-AIS (52mm filter) (use with reversal ring and bellows to produce high reproduction ratio macro images) Nikkor 28mm f/4 PC (72mm filter) (use for architectural images and panoramic scenic images)
@@katherinefan8844 Here are some of the 28mm lenses I have tried on full-frame cameras: 28mm f/2.8 Nikkor for Nikon F-mount SLRs 28mm f/3.5 Nikkor for Nikon F-mount SLRs 28mm f/4 Perspective Control Nikkor 28mm f/3.5 Pentax Takumar for Spotmatic SLRs (M42 mount) 28mm f/2.5 Vivitar (Kiron made) for M42 mount SLRs 28mm f/2.8 Zeiss Biogon for Contax G1 rangefinders 28mm f/2 Zeiss Distagon for Nikon F-mount SLRs All produced high quality images. The Nikon f/2.8 and the Zeiss f/2 are my personal favorites. Given a choice between the f/3.5 Nikkor and f/2.8 Nikkor, provided price is not a big factor, I would choose the f/2.8. If price was a big factor and the f/3.5 f-stop was not a big factor, I would choose the f/3.5.
Just got back from your flickr examples thanks for showing them in such detail really allows one to take a close look (can even see some camera shake in there) - all very useful. Especially liked the green bikes on a row, also other ones of interest as well. You should post something on your technique on preparing the images for the web, your colors are generally excellent as is whatever you are doing to get film into a good clean situation for the web, i.e. dust did not look like a problem and I only noticed one tiny scratch on one image and only at max magnification, very nice accomplishment. Thanks again! (Giving your video an upward digit of the good kind, not urological or driving finger kind.)
I actually use a Nikkor 28mm f2.8 Ai-s on my Canon 5D, with an adaptor that still gives me focus confirmation. The colours, contrast and sharpness are noticeably Canon's equivalent. The Nikkor also has close range correction.
Hi Brian, recycling back to this review doing some research. I gather you have the f2, f2.8, and f3.5 versions of the 28mm… which one do you like best overall? I’m a street shooter mainly urban and often low light or nighttime.
The only f/2.8 version I ever had was the AF series, which I believe is based on the five-element Series E. It was rather unimpressive. I haven't used the f/2 much, and the f/3.5 has never let me down.
I have one of these in nAI with the fun chunky metal focus rings. I find it very sharp, but it vinettes wide open. So of course I mainly use it wide open. The original Nikon f I have has maybe the darkest focusing screen I've ever seen, so this lens is a pain to focus with it, but with a FE or nikkormat it's good times all around.
The 28 2.8 ais almost seems a bit pointless, as great as it is. If you're shooting 35mm I don't think corner to corner sharpness wide-open, zero vignette and highest possible resolution should be your highest priority given any current-manufacture, cheap 28mm (or equivalent) lens on a modest digital body can give you all of this, and you can get even more technical perfection if you choose higher end modern equipment. It's boring as hell though. I love the way vignette and corner softness of older lenses can really lend a 3d pop to a subject that goes beyond mere shallow dof techniques. Cheers for the vid Brian!
My friend had an ai 28 f3. 5 and sold it and bought an f2.8 instead because his version of the 28mm 3.5 had poor sharpness. I have a non ai 28mm f2 8 that had been updated to ai and it was fast and sharp. I bought it for £50 and used it manually on my D40x and on my full frame N75 film camera.
Hi Brian, I just got 28 f/2.8 and it seem to work fine with the focus ring a little lose, but it have some rattle noise from inside when sake it a little. Is that normal? or should I return it and get another one? Thank you
Interesting video as always Brian. On the subject of 28mm for Nikon, I'd just like to throw in a wildcard. I got a 28mm lens (don't know where but probably attached to a body I purchased at some stage) which has turned out to be a stunner! It's a 28mm f2.8 AIS lens with 1:4 macro (focuses down to les than 8"), and the image quality is stunning from infinity to close up, metal construction, made in Japan with a 52mm filter thread. I'm after checking on ebay and I don't see any of this particular variant of this lens (maybe because those that have one are holding onto it?), but if you ever see one it will probably be dirt cheap. Now don't laugh but it's a...... CLUBMAN 28mm f2.8 F mount AIS MC Auto, the metric distance markings are in bright green and the word "macro" is in fluorescent red. Trust me, if you come across one of these lenses going cheap then snap it up cause you won't be disappointed.
@@BriansPhotoShow No unfortunately, just that it's made in Japan. I found a thread on photo.net where someone else had the same and was asking the same question, but as per usual on these forums nobody wants to answer the question just want to hear themselves talk. Well regardless of who made it it's definitely a keeper IMO.
Hi. There are two different lenses marketed as Clubman (both good). I'm guessing yours has a K prefix for the serial No? The other has an L prefix (has 'macro' in blue and only goes down to 1:5) and is much more common. I also have the nikkor AIS 28mm and agree that the off brand lens is not far off it (just cooler). There are many look-a-likes in different branding but the bad news is they are NOT all the same - and some are absolutely appalling! Good to know the Clubman is one of the good ones - I think you lucked out!
@@thewildgoose7467 Rumour on the internet has it that it was made by Ozone (if it has a K prefix SN) but I'm not so sure. I bought an Ozone branded version (same markings etc) to compare and it was terrible - not even close. I don't think they are even the same construction (though still probably made by the same manufacturer).
I'd think it would make a great normal lens for a crop-sensor mirrorless, assuming you don't need a fast maximum aperture. Having said that, I've never adapted my Nikkors to mirrorless, so I'm just speculating.
If the lens on my enlarger cost $100 new and is say fairly decent but not flawless in quality and all my printing is analogue could you argue that spending twice the money on the 2.8 is pointless from a purely practical point of view?
Excellent work, thank you!
It's pretty remarkable what Nikon gave us, 20mm-200mm all with 52mm filter threads. Including some pretty fast glass.
I wish all reviewers were as excellent as you. I'm 68, have shot for 50 years(Kodachrome, then Fujichrome) and appreciate someone who knows what the hell they are talking about and will admit when they might be wrong on something they aren't sure of. 🎷🌟🌟🌟💯✅
I thoroughly agree with your statement that just because the newer lens is better does not mean the lens being replaced was not good...I love your videos...I enjoy learning some history and background and as a result have picked up a couple of pre-ai lenses and have not been disappointed...thanks for your work!
Glad I could help!
Thank you again Brian for another educational session. I enjoy my Nikon older lenses and my Nikon F3 HP camera. I also use my 28 mm lens. RS. Canada
I bought the 28mm 3.5 in Japan in 1976. When AI came out, I had Nikon update it to factory AI. I used it mostly for landscapes on a tripod. It is about as sharp as they get. At that time, I was into the micro-grain, sharpness cult of using Kodak Technical Pan, shot around ISO 12. 16x20 inch prints held up nicely. Someone once suggested that I was fibbing and had shot those prints with a Rolleiflex or Hasselblad. Oddly, I acquired a minty 28mm 2.0 a few years ago, but I've never owned or used the 28mm 2.8.
Another excellent, informative, reality-based video. Great work! Keep it up! Best wishes!
Your support and encouragement is much appreciated!
I have owned both the 28mm f3.5 and the 28mm f2.8. I'll be darned if I can see any difference between them for the photos I take. I sold the f2.8 version when I was offered three times what I paid for it by some guy who just had to have one. I paid $40 I think for the f3.5 version maybe four years ago, missing its meter prong but otherwise in great shape. I added a prong for $10 and was all set. I use it on film and the images look great. Oddly enough, when used on a second-hand D300, it becomes a surprisingly useful street lens with a 42mm equivalent focal length. Between the D300 and the lens, I've got $150 in the package, so if something happens to it, I won't cry too much.
I've been thinking about getting a 24mm Nikkor, but have hesitated because the little 28mm is so useful. I'm not sure there would be enough difference to justify the purchase.
Price is rising a lot on eBay now.
Great video! I recently purchased your book on amazon - wow so much great information. I feel like I have a handle on what camera bodies and lens to look for. Many thanks!!!
Glad I could help! And remember, as frustrating as it can be sometimes, the hunt is half the fun of the hobby.
I use my Nikkor 28mm 3.5 AI on my D700 and my D7100 all the time. I take this on the D700 even if I have a sigma 24-105 f4, and a couple of other lenses. Very easy to focus and as sharp to satisfy both the D700 and the D7100.
Im pretty new to photography, but with it working on your D7100, would this lens fit on my D7000? Or do they have different mounts?
I owned a 28mm/3.5, I think in 1977. It was the older version preceeding the one you showed here. It had a big front lens which barely fit within the 52mm filter thread, a modernised version of the older Nikkor H 28/3.5. Optically, it was crappy, too much distortion and soft in the corners. So bad, I sold it and tried a Tokina 28/2.8 and even a Series E 28/2.8. The Nikkor 28/2.8 at the time was very good but very expensive! Nikon also had a 28/2, which you showed. The model you show in the video came as a replacement of the older 28/3.5 and it was, and still is, excellent.
If you shop for this lens, note the following. The 28mm 3.5 was introduced in 1960, but went through several modifications to the design into the early 1970s. The original lens had some roll off of resolution into the edges and corners, as well as noticeable vignetting. Sometime around 1974, more or less, the lens was fully redesigned optically, noted mainly for replacement of its fairly small exit element diameter with a much larger exit diameter lens element. This change eliminated the prior concern over vignetting. These modifications appear in the last of the pre-AI versions, one of which I purchased new, but to be sure, I'd stay with the AI or AIs versions.
I love how you do your research and inform us man keep it up
My goal is to have the highest meat & potatoes vs. bubble gum ratio in the genre. No theme music or B-roll here. Just reliable information and candor about the limits of my own knowledge.
I have a Nikkor-H 28mm ƒ3.5 from late 1972 that was professionally AI-converted, and it's been a joy to use, both on film and digital. I agree that it's an underrated lens. Thank you for this fantastic channel, Brian. I discovered it by complete chance and instantly subscribed!
Thanks for the kind words, and welcome aboard!
The max aperture makes it tricky to focus in less than good light. Best used hyper-focused as a street photograph lens. I picked up the AIS version in as new condition when everyone was throwing manual glass out, especially f3.5 lenses.
Oh yeah, they were a dime a dozen back then. How I miss those days. Good thing I stocked up on some nice glass when I had the chance.
A 28 f2 vs f2.8 AI-S comparison would be interesting. Only comparison I’ve seen it’s hard to pick between them unless pixel peeping in corners and marginal contrast difference.
Thanks for a great review.
Over the decades, I have used the following 28mm Nikkor lenses for scenics, landscapes, architecture, large group portraits, environmental portraits, macro, and vacation/travel:
Nikkor 28mm f/2.8 AIS (52mm filter) (produces high quality images)
Nikkor 28mm f/3.5 pre-AIS (52mm filter) (use with reversal ring and bellows to produce high reproduction ratio macro images)
Nikkor 28mm f/4 PC (72mm filter) (use for architectural images and panoramic scenic images)
Hi, how do you think about 28mm f/2.8 and f/3.5? Which one is better? I am really struggling to choose one.
@@katherinefan8844
Here are some of the 28mm lenses I have tried on full-frame cameras:
28mm f/2.8 Nikkor for Nikon F-mount SLRs
28mm f/3.5 Nikkor for Nikon F-mount SLRs
28mm f/4 Perspective Control Nikkor
28mm f/3.5 Pentax Takumar for Spotmatic SLRs (M42 mount)
28mm f/2.5 Vivitar (Kiron made) for M42 mount SLRs
28mm f/2.8 Zeiss Biogon for Contax G1 rangefinders
28mm f/2 Zeiss Distagon for Nikon F-mount SLRs
All produced high quality images. The Nikon f/2.8 and the Zeiss f/2 are my personal favorites.
Given a choice between the f/3.5 Nikkor and f/2.8 Nikkor, provided price is not a big factor, I would choose the f/2.8.
If price was a big factor and the f/3.5 f-stop was not a big factor, I would choose the f/3.5.
Thank you so much. That is pretty helpful.@@Narsuitus
Just got back from your flickr examples thanks for showing them in such detail really allows one to take a close look (can even see some camera shake in there) - all very useful. Especially liked the green bikes on a row, also other ones of interest as well. You should post something on your technique on preparing the images for the web, your colors are generally excellent as is whatever you are doing to get film into a good clean situation for the web, i.e. dust did not look like a problem and I only noticed one tiny scratch on one image and only at max magnification, very nice accomplishment. Thanks again! (Giving your video an upward digit of the good kind, not urological or driving finger kind.)
Brian, thanks for this video, I just bought one of these from KEH based on your review. Looking forward to trying it out.
I've always had good experiences with KEH. I doubt you'll be disappointed.
I actually use a Nikkor 28mm f2.8 Ai-s on my Canon 5D, with an adaptor that still gives me focus confirmation. The colours, contrast and sharpness are noticeably Canon's equivalent. The Nikkor also has close range correction.
Hi Brian, recycling back to this review doing some research. I gather you have the f2, f2.8, and f3.5 versions of the 28mm… which one do you like best overall? I’m a street shooter mainly urban and often low light or nighttime.
The only f/2.8 version I ever had was the AF series, which I believe is based on the five-element Series E. It was rather unimpressive. I haven't used the f/2 much, and the f/3.5 has never let me down.
There's also the f/2.0 version. I have one. Great review!! I just bought a mint f/3.5.
I have one of these in nAI with the fun chunky metal focus rings. I find it very sharp, but it vinettes wide open. So of course I mainly use it wide open.
The original Nikon f I have has maybe the darkest focusing screen I've ever seen, so this lens is a pain to focus with it, but with a FE or nikkormat it's good times all around.
👍✌️
The 28 2.8 ais almost seems a bit pointless, as great as it is. If you're shooting 35mm I don't think corner to corner sharpness wide-open, zero vignette and highest possible resolution should be your highest priority given any current-manufacture, cheap 28mm (or equivalent) lens on a modest digital body can give you all of this, and you can get even more technical perfection if you choose higher end modern equipment. It's boring as hell though. I love the way vignette and corner softness of older lenses can really lend a 3d pop to a subject that goes beyond mere shallow dof techniques. Cheers for the vid Brian!
I had the f3.5 HC I bought from a Nikon salesman in Montreal in the early seventies Brian..
My friend had an ai 28 f3. 5 and sold it and bought an f2.8 instead because his version of the 28mm 3.5 had poor sharpness.
I have a non ai 28mm f2 8 that had been updated to ai and it was fast and sharp. I bought it for £50 and used it manually on my D40x and on my full frame N75 film camera.
Will the N75 meter with a manual focus lens? I thought that series of consumer autofocus cameras required autofocus for full functionality?
Hello. can i use that lens on my nikon d600?
Yes, except for the unmodified pre-AI version.
@@BriansPhotoShow thanks for your response.
Hi Brian, I just got 28 f/2.8 and it seem to work fine with the focus ring a little lose, but it have some rattle noise from inside when sake it a little. Is that normal? or should I return it and get another one? Thank you
I'm not a technician, but the lens should not rattle. I'm not sure how serious the problem is, though.
@@BriansPhotoShow thank you
Interesting video as always Brian. On the subject of 28mm for Nikon, I'd just like to throw in a wildcard.
I got a 28mm lens (don't know where but probably attached to a body I purchased at some stage) which has turned out to be a stunner!
It's a 28mm f2.8 AIS lens with 1:4 macro (focuses down to les than 8"), and the image quality is stunning from infinity to close up, metal construction, made in Japan with a 52mm filter thread. I'm after checking on ebay and I don't see any of this particular variant of this lens (maybe because those that have one are holding onto it?), but if you ever see one it will probably be dirt cheap. Now don't laugh but it's a......
CLUBMAN 28mm f2.8 F mount AIS MC Auto, the metric distance markings are in bright green and the word "macro" is in fluorescent red.
Trust me, if you come across one of these lenses going cheap then snap it up cause you won't be disappointed.
I'm guessing that "Clubman" is a private label brand. Any idea who manufactured the lens?
@@BriansPhotoShow No unfortunately, just that it's made in Japan. I found a thread on photo.net where someone else had the same and was asking the same question, but as per usual on these forums nobody wants to answer the question just want to hear themselves talk. Well regardless of who made it it's definitely a keeper IMO.
@@BriansPhotoShow From the scarce info I've managed to dig up, the likeliest candidate is Cimko.
Hi. There are two different lenses marketed as Clubman (both good). I'm guessing yours has a K prefix for the serial No? The other has an L prefix (has 'macro' in blue and only goes down to 1:5) and is much more common. I also have the nikkor AIS 28mm and agree that the off brand lens is not far off it (just cooler). There are many look-a-likes in different branding but the bad news is they are NOT all the same - and some are absolutely appalling! Good to know the Clubman is one of the good ones - I think you lucked out!
@@thewildgoose7467 Rumour on the internet has it that it was made by Ozone (if it has a K prefix SN) but I'm not so sure. I bought an Ozone branded version (same markings etc) to compare and it was terrible - not even close. I don't think they are even the same construction (though still probably made by the same manufacturer).
How would this lens perform with an adapter to a sony emount on a apsc crop sensor, sony A6600 camera?
I'd think it would make a great normal lens for a crop-sensor mirrorless, assuming you don't need a fast maximum aperture. Having said that, I've never adapted my Nikkors to mirrorless, so I'm just speculating.
@@BriansPhotoShow is a 28mm shift lens a suitable FD for architecture?
If the lens on my enlarger cost $100 new and is say fairly decent but not flawless in quality and all my printing is analogue could you argue that spending twice the money on the 2.8 is pointless from a purely practical point of view?
please compare it with 28mm 2.8