I have many older Nikon lenses but not a 35 mm lens. I will look into obtaining one of these. This is another very, very enjoyable teaching session. Please keep these up. Subscribed and Patreon. Thanks so much Brian. RS. Canada
Mine is inscribed: NIKKOR-N.C Auto 1:1.4 f=35mm 370907. It features 7 blades. That would mean it was produced in 1977 with lens curvature improved for shooting at 1.4? Nice lens to use!
After seeing your video I found an early copy for a screaming good deal…my early results are very positive…thanks for the helpful information on your channel…I enjoy your content very much and found your book helpful as well
Thanks for a review of this excellent lens! It's perhaps not the best technically, but it surely has plenty of character. Because of that, I use it almost exclusively when using 35 mm on my Nikon even when I have "better" lenses as well. At f1.4 it has this blueish veil, which is gone at f2.0 - both being excellent looks!
Great channel! I'm exploring old manual lenses to be used with my Nikon Z6. I wonder how would something like this superb 35mm F1.4 compared to the current Z lens (F1.8) with more advanced coating etc. Many thanks Brian!
In my experience, this is a high-contrast lens which rarely flares. Coating technology is always improving, but that's no reason to avoid older multicoated lenses in my opinion.
In the late 1960s, I purchased my first 35mm SLR camera (Miranda Sensorex) with a 50mm lens. I did not like the camera because it broke too often, and I did not like the 50mm lens because it was too “telephoto” for my taste. When the Sensorex broke for the third time within its first two years, I replaced it with a Nikon F body. The first lens I purchased for the Nikon body was a Nikkor 35mm f/2. That lens was my favorite for years until I replaced it with my new favorite, the Nikkor 35mm f/1.4 AIS.
I just ordered a 1975 one with the N-C on it from Japan Looks almost new, going to get it AI machined/converted to keep the F22 😎 Plan to keep it yellowed for shooting black/white :)
Hello Brian , thank you for all the research and information about Nikkor lenses . I wonder if you would compare the Pre AI 200mm f4 to the newer 200mm f4 AI version . Thank you
I'm curious as to what caused the yellow cast and how sun exposure helps eliminate it. Would this lens be a decent choice for astro photography? I'm looking for a fast wide angle with minimal coma. So far the current Nikon 20 f/1.8 looks to be my lens of choice. Thanks for all the great info!
The thorium in the lens over time will cause a yellowing in the lens as it is mildly radioactive. This can be mitigated by UV radiation and in this case, the sun.
Don't put the lens in the sun! The heat will cause outgassing from the helicoid grease and will cover the internal elements with haze. Then the heated grease and oils will change in viscosity and will run into places not where it's not creating oily aperture blades, stiff focusing rings because the grease leaked from there.
Does your copy of the lens exhibit a blue glow when used at f/1.4? Mine does, it's an AI-S version. The glow does not matter at all on black and white film and even on colour film, it's a character I like. On digital it's a bit too strong sometimes, although at f/2.0 it's completely gone.
Yes, I have the single-coated version without the "C", but I haven't used it very much. It is a very highly regarded lens and was Nikon's most popular 35mm focal-length lens during the manual-focus era.
I have the original f/22 version. Man, when you nail it, magical. I use it mostly at f/4-5.6. Amazing detail. Very unique glass.
I have many older Nikon lenses but not a 35 mm lens. I will look into obtaining one of these. This is another very, very enjoyable teaching session. Please keep these up. Subscribed and Patreon. Thanks so much Brian. RS. Canada
Mine is inscribed: NIKKOR-N.C Auto 1:1.4 f=35mm 370907. It features 7 blades. That would mean it was produced in 1977 with lens curvature improved for shooting at 1.4? Nice lens to use!
After seeing your video I found an early copy for a screaming good deal…my early results are very positive…thanks for the helpful information on your channel…I enjoy your content very much and found your book helpful as well
Thank you to remember this lens. I us to have for years the same Nikkor 35mm f/1.4 on my Nikon F4.
Thanks for a review of this excellent lens! It's perhaps not the best technically, but it surely has plenty of character. Because of that, I use it almost exclusively when using 35 mm on my Nikon even when I have "better" lenses as well. At f1.4 it has this blueish veil, which is gone at f2.0 - both being excellent looks!
Great channel! I'm exploring old manual lenses to be used with my Nikon Z6. I wonder how would something like this superb 35mm F1.4 compared to the current Z lens (F1.8) with more advanced coating etc. Many thanks Brian!
In my experience, this is a high-contrast lens which rarely flares. Coating technology is always improving, but that's no reason to avoid older multicoated lenses in my opinion.
In the late 1960s, I purchased my first 35mm SLR camera (Miranda Sensorex) with a 50mm lens. I did not like the camera because it broke too often, and I did not like the 50mm lens because it was too “telephoto” for my taste.
When the Sensorex broke for the third time within its first two years, I replaced it with a Nikon F body. The first lens I purchased for the Nikon body was a Nikkor 35mm f/2. That lens was my favorite for years until I replaced it with my new favorite, the Nikkor 35mm f/1.4 AIS.
I just ordered a 1975 one with the N-C on it from Japan
Looks almost new, going to get it AI machined/converted to keep the F22 😎
Plan to keep it yellowed for shooting black/white :)
Hello Brian , thank you for all the research and information about Nikkor lenses . I wonder if you would compare the Pre AI 200mm f4 to the newer 200mm f4 AI version . Thank you
I'm curious as to what caused the yellow cast and how sun exposure helps eliminate it. Would this lens be a decent choice for astro photography?
I'm looking for a fast wide angle with minimal coma. So far the current Nikon 20 f/1.8 looks to be my lens of choice. Thanks for all the great info!
The thorium in the lens over time will cause a yellowing in the lens as it is mildly radioactive. This can be mitigated by UV radiation and in this case, the sun.
Don't put the lens in the sun!
The heat will cause outgassing from the helicoid grease and will cover the internal elements with haze. Then the heated grease and oils will change in viscosity and will run into places not where it's not creating oily aperture blades, stiff focusing rings because the grease leaked from there.
Good info, good video, Thanks!.
Nice review. I’ve always found the Nikkor O 35mm f2 to be a much better performer. If you don’t need the speed it’s the way to go.
Does your copy of the lens exhibit a blue glow when used at f/1.4? Mine does, it's an AI-S version. The glow does not matter at all on black and white film and even on colour film, it's a character I like. On digital it's a bit too strong sometimes, although at f/2.0 it's completely gone.
No, mine has a distinct amber cast due to the thoriated element, which was eliminated with the introduction of the AI version.
How do you know if one of these has thorium glass or not?
I believe that all the pre-AI units have a thorium element.
Hey Brian, do you think one should store a lens with the aperture open or closed? Or does it not make a difference?
Closed. I store all my Nikkors set to minimum aperture. It helps keep oil from accumulating on the blades.
Do you know the weight？
Hi Brian, thanks for the video! How does my Nikkor-O.C. Pre-AI 2.0/35mm compare to this lens? Do you have such a lens, too?
Yes, I have the single-coated version without the "C", but I haven't used it very much. It is a very highly regarded lens and was Nikon's most popular 35mm focal-length lens during the manual-focus era.