Mine started this problem 3 months out of warranty. I cleaned every part including the titanium parts with vinegar. Nothing. I stripped the wires and connected them to the ones below and I haven't had a problem. Thank you. Intex is black listed now. Designed to fail knowing people will spend more money. But that's my opinion
Dude, thank you for this. I have the same model. This worked great. Only think I would recommend would be add a shut off switch for the chlorinator, because some chemicals will harm the ti. Plates in the chlorinator.
Noticed you no longer have the Intex Pool. We just bought this same pool and I am putting the pump and filter together today. Not liking what you shared since I haven't even finished installation; however, I am thankful for the videos and the honest comments about Intex customer service. Would you share what pool you now have? Thanks.
I too have been seeing this issue. I found another youtube video on the smaller chlorine generator and he showed that there calcium build up on chlorinator. He added white vinegar to the plastic tube where the calcium build up was and it broke down the calcium. I tried this and it worked great. In fact, I uncrewed the fitting that held the chlorinator in place and I took the unit to the sink and rinsed it well. Next, time, I think I will just remove it and put it in a glass of vinegar. I rinsed the tubing out well with water and then put it back together and its working like new.
Great Video. Do you know how you can test the electrodes themselves? After pulling them and putting them back in the unit won't turn on and has the single red dot, which according to the manual indicates the electrodes are shorted or the control unit failed.
Thanks for video, but I have same types but different wire colors...can you describe this basspass by order. I connected the upper one with the second one from the bottom, but the error 91 still lights up. Thanks
Hey nick, I have this exact model. But the wires your saying that are white and black on the bottom on mine is actually black and red.. I’m a little confused with the “black on black, and white on white?
I have a couple of questions. I rewired mine and was just wondering do you still have to keep the timer on? If it chlorinates when pump is turned on and has power then if the pump is in FP it doesn’t show the chlorine light but it should be still chlorinating shouldn’t it?
I believe you still need to use it as normal the only difference is the low salt error won’t make it stop generating chlorine. I no longer have that pump or pool so I’ll going by memory.
I have the exact system and model number you have.followed your instructions on video and did not work my system ran about 30 min then the low salt warning started and put chlorinator to sleep so unplugging the top two wires and then connecting white to white and black to black did not bypass salt sensor my salt cell is clean and on the intex site a new titanium electrode will cost you $186.00 as of 6/15/23 so instead I ordered a new salt clorator from Amazon for pools up to 15000 gallons water for $185.00 didn't want to take chance and order cell and still not work but thanks for the video may work for some but not mine
Handy Dad that’s odd mine hasn’t come back at all. Perhaps it is still producing chlorine even though it says low salt though since you changed the wires?
Same happened to me. The circuit and wires look exactly like this video. Chloronator light is on, within 5 minutes the low salt error beeped and light came on. It's too early to know if the generator is working, but I plan to test in an hour or so. If the chlorinator is in fact working, I just need to pull the beep sound wire 😉
@@DIY-Nick your trick work well! I did it last night! When the pool in sleep, the chlorine will stop right? Last question, since this the first time running chlorine since I put water in, how long do I need to run the put?
@@tankdome37 yes it will run the same as when it wasn’t broken, just no more warnings about low salt so keep an eye on your salt levels by bringing a sample to your pool supply store to check the selenite level or by a test kit.
Thank you for this video!! I have the exact pump, and now getting the error 91/Low Salt. I purchased the pump on 3/2020. My salt level is good. My titanium cells looks good, but I’m soaking them in vinegar today. Did you ever talk with Intex or find another fix besides work around?
No I tried calling several times, left messages, never got a call back or even an email. Their customer service is awful. The workaround works great though and to my surprise when my salt level really was low it told me error code 91 till I added salt. So with the workaround the pump still tells you when salt really is low but stops telling you it is low when it’s not... go figure.
@@DIY-Nick ok, this is very helpful, we were also going to try calling them. I can’t thank you enough!! We did the workaround yesterday and thankfully it’s working, whew!! God Bless you.
I bought my exact same unit on 3/20 also, so now it’s out of warranty. This video is super helpful. I may try to strip the wires since I can’t do a warranty claim. Thanks again
I have the same pump system with the same problem I was able to get thru to Intex and the person on the phone suggested that I replace the e.c.o. then run the system and see if that rectifies the problem before they send me a new sensor board but I'm within 3 months of my warranty expiring and don't want to waste money
All i can recommend is trying the fix/workaround I provide in the video. Unfortunately I haven’t had that pump or that pool for a couple years now so I don’t have any other things to recommend
@@DIY-Nick i tried now it doesn't turn on at all and i'm not a electrician - and lack the ability to see if a internal fuse was blown or not. thank you very much for your help.
@@tntwingate wow that is definitely not the result I had or others who have performed this workaround. I can only surmise that you must have done it differently or that your issue was not the same to begin with. All I can suggest is to try to reverse the process and put it back how you found it. If it still won’t work your only option would be to contact Intex for support and warranty repair/replacement but of course don’t tell them you ever opened it up or they will say your warranty is voided.
The pump didn’t fail but the pool exploded due to the frame rusting out from the salt water. I’d never use a salt water filter again on a steel frame pool. The frame only lasted about a year before rusting causing the wall to rupture.
@@DIY-Nick fala friend, the question was that the cables from the salt sensor that you directed with the current work, there will be no problem with the electrode if you follow the order of correct dosing of salt??
@@arsovkenfilio7302 it continued to work perfectly another 4-5 months, then the pool exploded. I have no reason to believe it would not have kept working.
I no longer have that pool or pump. Salt water rusted the pool frame completely through. I replaced the pool with a real steal wall above ground pool with Hayward pump and filter and I use liquid chlorine now rather than salt water. I still have a claim in with Intex to replace my old pump but their support is as useless as their warranty as although they approved the claim it just says “out of stock” so that’s helpful.
High salt typically means you added too much salt because it kept telling you “low salt”, now that you fixed the issue with it saying low salt it knows your salt is actually too high. You will likely need to drain your pool a bit and replace it with some fresh water to reduce the salt. Before you do that tough take a sample to the pool store to have them check your salt level to be sure.
A follow up, after reading many forums I found that the titanium electrode typically lasts only 2 years. Replacing the electrode fixed my issue (after I put the wires back in place). You must search for the part number! The titanium electrode doesn't show up in the part list. I wasted money on the ?ECO? Electrode before discovering this. 2022 price was ~$150.
This is a designed failure point. Look online, there are NO Intex salt cells for sale, Intex wants you to replace the whole unit. They denied me a salt cell because I was 20 days past 1Yr on the cell. My salt level is at 3300, calcium, PH and Alkalinity perfect, the salt cell is also perfectly clean- but no go. Their stuff seems to be decent, but this fault code is just to make money and customer service is non-existant to sketchy at best. I will be bypassing it.
yup, after almost a year and I have already replaced the pump and entire pool (because the salt water rusted out the steal frame in a single season) Intex finally sent me a replacement pump for the warranty claim I filed with them half a year ago. I will never buy another Intex product.
@@DIY-Nick I did the bypass an hour ago so far so good. Looks like what you do is reduce resistance by giving another path for current to flow by using the ozone plates. My guess is the system is poorly calibrated, leaning towards low salt errors. Yeah, my pool is a bestway (same crap) and its rusting away. This season will likely be the last for this pool, I will be installing a legit resin side pool with a 40yr warranty in a year or two.
@@wyvern4588 yea I had a Bestway pool as well that is what rusted out. Now I have a legit steel wall pool with a Hayward pump and filter system which uses normal chlorine based pool chemicals. I prefer salt water but after seeing what it did to my last pool no thanks.
@@DIY-Nick By the way, the fix seems to work perfectly, go figure! I would like to stick with salt, so I've been eyeballing resin style pools- but they are a bit more money unfortunately.
Be careful doing this. I tried now my pump is dead in the water. Put it back to original just to have circulation and still doesn’t work. Don’t try unless you really can part and afford a new system.
You are the first to say that my workaround harmed your pump in some way. I am guessing you crossed wires causing a short. All the workaround does is bypass the sensor so there is no reason it should harm the pump if done properly.
Nope........... Bypassing the Regulated power panel is absolutely not a fix. Yes it will produce chlorine, for a while, as it burns out the plate. The Voltage is not proper for producing Chlorine from salt and is instead producing high amounts of hydrogen gases The Top leads should be the E.C.O. plate - Ozone production The next lower set is Cl- and Cl+ i.e. Chlorine Plate leads. Confirming Power output should be the first step. If the unit is supplying power the plate has likely been damaged or reached end of serviceable life. These are Wear Items, not made to last forever. they work by electrolysis
Mine started this problem 3 months out of warranty. I cleaned every part including the titanium parts with vinegar. Nothing. I stripped the wires and connected them to the ones below and I haven't had a problem. Thank you. Intex is black listed now. Designed to fail knowing people will spend more money. But that's my opinion
I agree completely I’ll never buy another Intex product, they make junk and their warranty service is worthless
Dude, thank you for this. I have the same model. This worked great. Only think I would recommend would be add a shut off switch for the chlorinator, because some chemicals will harm the ti. Plates in the chlorinator.
Glad i could help.
Noticed you no longer have the Intex Pool. We just bought this same pool and I am putting the pump and filter together today. Not liking what you shared since I haven't even finished installation; however, I am thankful for the videos and the honest comments about Intex customer service. Would you share what pool you now have? Thanks.
I now have a “real” above ground pool with metal walls, Haywood pump and filter and I use chlorine tabs rather than salt water.
Thank you, Nick, worked like a charm.
Glad I was able to help!
I too have been seeing this issue. I found another youtube video on the smaller chlorine generator and he showed that there calcium build up on chlorinator. He added white vinegar to the plastic tube where the calcium build up was and it broke down the calcium. I tried this and it worked great. In fact, I uncrewed the fitting that held the chlorinator in place and I took the unit to the sink and rinsed it well. Next, time, I think I will just remove it and put it in a glass of vinegar. I rinsed the tubing out well with water and then put it back together and its working like new.
Great Video. Do you know how you can test the electrodes themselves? After pulling them and putting them back in the unit won't turn on and has the single red dot, which according to the manual indicates the electrodes are shorted or the control unit failed.
I’m sorry I don’t know how you would test them
Great thanks. I’ll try this.
Thanks for video, but I have same types but different wire colors...can you describe this basspass by order. I connected the upper one with the second one from the bottom, but the error 91 still lights up. Thanks
I haven’t had it for a couple years so I don’t remember. Best i can say is watch the video closely to see which color corresponds with your colors.
This fixed it! Good work, thank you!
Glad I could help
Hey nick, I have this exact model. But the wires your saying that are white and black on the bottom on mine is actually black and red.. I’m a little confused with the “black on black, and white on white?
They probably don’t have strict wire color standards. Pay more attention to the position of the wires.
I have a couple of questions. I rewired mine and was just wondering do you still have to keep the timer on? If it chlorinates when pump is turned on and has power then if the pump is in FP it doesn’t show the chlorine light but it should be still chlorinating shouldn’t it?
I believe you still need to use it as normal the only difference is the low salt error won’t make it stop generating chlorine. I no longer have that pump or pool so I’ll going by memory.
I have the exact system and model number you have.followed your instructions on video and did not work my system ran about 30 min then the low salt warning started and put chlorinator to sleep so unplugging the top two wires and then connecting white to white and black to black did not bypass salt sensor my salt cell is clean and on the intex site a new titanium electrode will cost you $186.00 as of 6/15/23 so instead I ordered a new salt clorator from Amazon for pools up to 15000 gallons water for $185.00 didn't want to take chance and order cell and still not work but thanks for the video may work for some but not mine
Not sure why it wouldn’t work for you it definitely worked when I did it and it has worked for many others who have replied too.
Thanks for posting this video, I tried this method and went through the descaling also. The low salt error light came back on after approx 1 hr ?
Handy Dad that’s odd mine hasn’t come back at all. Perhaps it is still producing chlorine even though it says low salt though since you changed the wires?
Did you move the wires to the middle posts or the top posts?
Same happened to me. The circuit and wires look exactly like this video. Chloronator light is on, within 5 minutes the low salt error beeped and light came on. It's too early to know if the generator is working, but I plan to test in an hour or so. If the chlorinator is in fact working, I just need to pull the beep sound wire 😉
Will changing the Electrodes, stop the code or is their some type of sensor somewhere
I don’t know honestly know. I only know how I got around it
@@DIY-Nick your trick work well! I did it last night! When the pool in sleep, the chlorine will stop right?
Last question, since this the first time running chlorine since I put water in, how long do I need to run the put?
@@tankdome37 yes it will run the same as when it wasn’t broken, just no more warnings about low salt so keep an eye on your salt levels by bringing a sample to your pool supply store to check the selenite level or by a test kit.
Thank you for this video!! I have the exact pump, and now getting the error 91/Low Salt. I purchased the pump on 3/2020. My salt level is good.
My titanium cells looks good, but I’m soaking them in vinegar today. Did you ever talk with Intex or find another fix besides work around?
No I tried calling several times, left messages, never got a call back or even an email. Their customer service is awful. The workaround works great though and to my surprise when my salt level really was low it told me error code 91 till I added salt. So with the workaround the pump still tells you when salt really is low but stops telling you it is low when it’s not... go figure.
@@DIY-Nick ok, this is very helpful, we were also going to try calling them. I can’t thank you enough!! We did the workaround yesterday and thankfully it’s working, whew!! God Bless you.
I bought my exact same unit on 3/20 also, so now it’s out of warranty. This video is super helpful. I may try to strip the wires since I can’t do a warranty claim. Thanks again
I have the same pump system with the same problem I was able to get thru to Intex and the person on the phone suggested that I replace the e.c.o. then run the system and see if that rectifies the problem before they send me a new sensor board but I'm within 3 months of my warranty expiring and don't want to waste money
I've same problem. The plates are clean but the overlay doesn't work. What other options do I have?
All i can recommend is trying the fix/workaround I provide in the video. Unfortunately I haven’t had that pump or that pool for a couple years now so I don’t have any other things to recommend
@@DIY-Nick i tried now it doesn't turn on at all and i'm not a electrician - and lack the ability to see if a internal fuse was blown or not. thank you very much for your help.
@@tntwingate wow that is definitely not the result I had or others who have performed this workaround. I can only surmise that you must have done it differently or that your issue was not the same to begin with. All I can suggest is to try to reverse the process and put it back how you found it. If it still won’t work your only option would be to contact Intex for support and warranty repair/replacement but of course don’t tell them you ever opened it up or they will say your warranty is voided.
dude, is the pump still working properly after moving the cables, since the video is 3 years old..
The pump didn’t fail but the pool exploded due to the frame rusting out from the salt water. I’d never use a salt water filter again on a steel frame pool. The frame only lasted about a year before rusting causing the wall to rupture.
@@DIY-Nick fala friend, the question was that the cables from the salt sensor that you directed with the current work, there will be no problem with the electrode if you follow the order of correct dosing of salt??
@@arsovkenfilio7302 it continued to work perfectly another 4-5 months, then the pool exploded. I have no reason to believe it would not have kept working.
I have Model ECO5220. There are blue/gold, blue/gold and black/Red wires. What should I connect to for fixing error 91 code?
Sally Takehara sorry I only know the model I have but it is likely similar.
Btw…is this fix still working for you??
My top wires are black and white. My bottom wires are red and black
I no longer have that pool or pump. Salt water rusted the pool frame completely through. I replaced the pool with a real steal wall above ground pool with Hayward pump and filter and I use liquid chlorine now rather than salt water. I still have a claim in with Intex to replace my old pump but their support is as useless as their warranty as although they approved the claim it just says “out of stock” so that’s helpful.
HELP I did this same thing and now my pool
Alarms high salt I give up 😢
High salt typically means you added too much salt because it kept telling you “low salt”, now that you fixed the issue with it saying low salt it knows your salt is actually too high. You will likely need to drain your pool a bit and replace it with some fresh water to reduce the salt. Before you do that tough take a sample to the pool store to have them check your salt level to be sure.
This didn't work for me. I don't have corrosion. There is a spot on the board that looks burned.
A follow up, after reading many forums I found that the titanium electrode typically lasts only 2 years. Replacing the electrode fixed my issue (after I put the wires back in place). You must search for the part number! The titanium electrode doesn't show up in the part list. I wasted money on the ?ECO? Electrode before discovering this. 2022 price was ~$150.
Thanks for following up
I tried that and I still get that code 91
Have the contacted you yet?
Eddie Gallegos nope
This is a designed failure point.
Look online, there are NO Intex salt cells for sale, Intex wants you to replace the whole unit.
They denied me a salt cell because I was 20 days past 1Yr on the cell.
My salt level is at 3300, calcium, PH and Alkalinity perfect, the salt cell is also perfectly clean- but no go.
Their stuff seems to be decent, but this fault code is just to make money and customer service is non-existant to sketchy at best.
I will be bypassing it.
yup, after almost a year and I have already replaced the pump and entire pool (because the salt water rusted out the steal frame in a single season) Intex finally sent me a replacement pump for the warranty claim I filed with them half a year ago. I will never buy another Intex product.
@@DIY-Nick I did the bypass an hour ago so far so good.
Looks like what you do is reduce resistance by giving another path for current to flow by using the ozone plates.
My guess is the system is poorly calibrated, leaning towards low salt errors.
Yeah, my pool is a bestway (same crap) and its rusting away. This season will likely be the last for this pool, I will be installing a legit resin side pool with a 40yr warranty in a year or two.
@@wyvern4588 yea I had a Bestway pool as well that is what rusted out. Now I have a legit steel wall pool with a Hayward pump and filter system which uses normal chlorine based pool chemicals. I prefer salt water but after seeing what it did to my last pool no thanks.
@@DIY-Nick By the way, the fix seems to work perfectly, go figure!
I would like to stick with salt, so I've been eyeballing resin style pools- but they are a bit more money unfortunately.
@@wyvern4588 yes they are and harder to find too.
Be careful doing this. I tried now my pump is dead in the water. Put it back to original just to have circulation and still doesn’t work. Don’t try unless you really can part and afford a new system.
You are the first to say that my workaround harmed your pump in some way. I am guessing you crossed wires causing a short. All the workaround does is bypass the sensor so there is no reason it should harm the pump if done properly.
Nope........... Bypassing the Regulated power panel is absolutely not a fix. Yes it will produce chlorine, for a while, as it burns out the plate. The Voltage is not proper for producing Chlorine from salt and is instead producing high amounts of hydrogen gases
The Top leads should be the E.C.O. plate - Ozone production
The next lower set is Cl- and Cl+ i.e. Chlorine Plate leads.
Confirming Power output should be the first step.
If the unit is supplying power the plate has likely been damaged or reached end of serviceable life. These are Wear Items, not made to last forever. they work by electrolysis