I would love to have you rebuild my 1990 series 60, 365 hp, 12.7. Love your attention to detail, knowledge, clean work area, and double-check, not just guessing. Ad of today and adding miles daily, 450k original miles.
I just did the overhead on my 12.7. When I got it back together, it started and sounded great. When I turned on the jake to make sure it worked, I rev it a touch and it came on, but had a backfire sound as the computer shut off the jake. This was in the shop not driving. I but the injector height tool and set at 81mm like my valve cover said ( 4912 cam 6952 injector BK engine). All injectors were a tiny bit overheight when I started. Thinking I might need to recheck things. My first time doing the over head on a 12.7. Intakes were a little tight exhaust was right on a few and loose on a few. Thanks
Joe, I had an inframe done about 100,000 miles ago. I have a 2009 Columbia with a Series 60, 14L. The guy did a great job. I've never had to add one drop of oil between oil changes, the coolant is still the original coolant that the truck had when I bought it back in April, the temp gauge has yet to hit 200 (and I run the Mojave a lot), and my oil analysis are all great. But for the past 2 months or so, I have lost power on hills. Any little hill, even if I'm empty. The guy who did the work told me that I would need to do an overhead at 80,000 to 100,000 miles. Can this be the cause of the lost power?
@@emarquise32 Not yet. I'm waiting for the compliance certificate so I can go into California to get it done. I applied 18 days ago so it should be another week or so.
Thank you for the video. I have a Series 60 12.7L. Previous owner said he did an overhead. I may have a bad injectir as it smokes on cold start. Runs well but loses power pulling hills. Would it be possible for you to do some work on it? If so, what State are you located in. Thanks in advance.
How does your coolant look? Does it smell like diesel? Any check engine lights on? Just finishing up a “minor in-frame” as the owner calls it, for the same reason you stated above. 2007 model DDEC VI 460hp 14liter, runs fine until it gets to a hill, then it falls on its face…but no check engine lights. First thing I noticed was the “fuelant” in his radiator expansion tank. I pressure tested the coolant system with the fuel feed line from the filter housing to the block disconnected, as to look for pressurized coolant. Too many leaks elsewhere to make a definitive statement, but I plugged in and did a cylinder contribution test and found 3 & 5 cylinder were out of acceptable range, so I guessed correctly that she needed a new head and injector cups, so we started the job, only to find a completely destroyed fuel lobe on the cam at #3. It was obviously adjusted to run on this chewed up cam, but this guy got the brunt of it. Guys who rebuilt this engine before left a whole plethora of surprises. We wanted to do a complete overhaul, but the budget is tight so we are doing the most necessary items, complete new head,cam, followers, injectors and cups, rebuild jakes, some new lines and little things but the rest of the old parts are going back on. It won’t be long before it’s back for the rest of this stuff but hey if it’s all you can afford, that’s it.
You don't have to, but it's good to at least roll the engine over and grab a feeler gauge and check it, even though you don't plan on resetting it, you may find out that it's out of spec and you want to adjust it
Special tool to set the spring height from hole in injector body, to top of spring retainer, you don't set them when compressed, spring height goes according to the camshaft you have, not the injector
I have a quick question or two acuallly. I am about to do the overhead, I have been reading the manual and it only helps me so much watching your videos has been incredibly helpful so don't think I am undermining you with this question. I believe you say valves are in overlap when the intake valves are just closing and the exhaust valves are just opening whereas the manual says you are in overlap period when the exhaust valves are just closing and the intake valves are just opening. It is the same thing though right with both scenarios. Lastly I have watched your overhead videos part one and 2 over 10 times and I think I am ready to go in today but to make sure when your intake and exhaust rocker rolls both cant be rolled and are tight that is valve overlap correct? Thanks for all of your videos and for all of your contributions.
Stop paint marking everything, loosen all the lock nuts before you start, you know what you did and didn't this way, when done, roll it again and recheck all the settings, then go over everything and retorque all the lock nuts
Aprendí a hacer la mecánica a mi camión gracias a sus videos, eternamente agradecido, dios lo prospere infinitamente, gracias
Interesting thank you for your time and everything.
I would love to have you rebuild my 1990 series 60, 365 hp, 12.7. Love your attention to detail, knowledge, clean work area, and double-check, not just guessing. Ad of today and adding miles daily, 450k original miles.
Very helpful video wish more people would put videos on like this 👍
Thank you for these videos
I appreciate you doing these videos, not many series 60 videos out here.
I just did the overhead on my 12.7. When I got it back together, it started and sounded great. When I turned on the jake to make sure it worked, I rev it a touch and it came on, but had a backfire sound as the computer shut off the jake. This was in the shop not driving. I but the injector height tool and set at 81mm like my valve cover said ( 4912 cam 6952 injector BK engine). All injectors were a tiny bit overheight when I started. Thinking I might need to recheck things. My first time doing the over head on a 12.7. Intakes were a little tight exhaust was right on a few and loose on a few. Thanks
Great I needed that information
Radio on in the BACKROUND OMG SHOOT ME!
Joe, I had an inframe done about 100,000 miles ago. I have a 2009 Columbia with a Series 60, 14L. The guy did a great job. I've never had to add one drop of oil between oil changes, the coolant is still the original coolant that the truck had when I bought it back in April, the temp gauge has yet to hit 200 (and I run the Mojave a lot), and my oil analysis are all great.
But for the past 2 months or so, I have lost power on hills. Any little hill, even if I'm empty. The guy who did the work told me that I would need to do an overhead at 80,000 to 100,000 miles. Can this be the cause of the lost power?
Did you ever get it done?
@@emarquise32 Not yet. I'm waiting for the compliance certificate so I can go into California to get it done. I applied 18 days ago so it should be another week or so.
Thank you 👍
You should do this while laying all over crap and reaching two arms into the firewall hole setting cylinder 5-6, what a pain in the but
Thank you for the video.
I have a Series 60 12.7L. Previous owner said he did an overhead. I may have a bad injectir as it smokes on cold start.
Runs well but loses power pulling hills. Would it be possible for you to do some work on it? If so, what State are you located in.
Thanks in advance.
How does your coolant look? Does it smell like diesel? Any check engine lights on? Just finishing up a “minor in-frame” as the owner calls it, for the same reason you stated above. 2007 model DDEC VI 460hp 14liter, runs fine until it gets to a hill, then it falls on its face…but no check engine lights. First thing I noticed was the “fuelant” in his radiator expansion tank. I pressure tested the coolant system with the fuel feed line from the filter housing to the block disconnected, as to look for pressurized coolant. Too many leaks elsewhere to make a definitive statement, but I plugged in and did a cylinder contribution test and found 3 & 5 cylinder were out of acceptable range, so I guessed correctly that she needed a new head and injector cups, so we started the job, only to find a completely destroyed fuel lobe on the cam at #3. It was obviously adjusted to run on this chewed up cam, but this guy got the brunt of it. Guys who rebuilt this engine before left a whole plethora of surprises. We wanted to do a complete overhaul, but the budget is tight so we are doing the most necessary items, complete new head,cam, followers, injectors and cups, rebuild jakes, some new lines and little things but the rest of the old parts are going back on. It won’t be long before it’s back for the rest of this stuff but hey if it’s all you can afford, that’s it.
Por favor baje todo referente a la serie 60 muy bueno
so your saying the 78.2 is not putting gage in the hole, but the purchased tool sits in the hole and accounts for the hole depth?
No it sits in the hole if you are using a caliper it does not sit in the hole
And remember for you guys modified the engine for more power, the injector heights come from the camshaft you use, not the injector,
im replacing all my injectors do i have to perform this overhead tune up
I would recommend that you adjust the overhead anytime parts are changed.
You don't have to, but it's good to at least roll the engine over and grab a feeler gauge and check it, even though you don't plan on resetting it, you may find out that it's out of spec and you want to adjust it
Thank you somuch master!!!
Can you add a link to tools used or part #'s.? Thank you
Amazon sells these tools cheap
Is the injector have to be bottom out to adjust it??
Special tool to set the spring height from hole in injector body, to top of spring retainer, you don't set them when compressed, spring height goes according to the camshaft you have, not the injector
how much torque on intake and exaust valves?
30-35 Ft/lbs
I have a quick question or two acuallly. I am about to do the overhead, I have been reading the manual and it only helps me so much watching your videos has been incredibly helpful so don't think I am undermining you with this question. I believe you say valves are in overlap when the intake valves are just closing and the exhaust valves are just opening whereas the manual says you are in overlap period when the exhaust valves are just closing and the intake valves are just opening. It is the same thing though right with both scenarios. Lastly I have watched your overhead videos part one and 2 over 10 times and I think I am ready to go in today but to make sure when your intake and exhaust rocker rolls both cant be rolled and are tight that is valve overlap correct? Thanks for all of your videos and for all of your contributions.
Yes when the exhaust is closing and the intake just starts to open is valve overlap
You are correct. I said that backwards.
Stop paint marking everything, loosen all the lock nuts before you start, you know what you did and didn't this way, when done, roll it again and recheck all the settings, then go over everything and retorque all the lock nuts
I've worked on plenty of Detroit engines