I actually thought this would be like a restoration video, but it was an ad. Which i don't dislike, if the ad is well-made (like this one), then why not. BUT. Lets start with WXP65, since its closest to my ZD-916 soldering station. It's 65W and it's ONLY a soldering pen, meaning you need 24V adapter (not recommended) or the station in order to work with it. Price? 204€ on Farnell. I got mine for around 60€, its 60W, whole unit with a decent pen, temperature setting and digital display. WXP120, the 120W soldering pen. For some reasin a bit cheaper than WXP65, 190€ on farnell. Again, just a pen, no station/controller/whatever. And the station itself, WXR3. 1850€. I mean.. my used VW Polo costed me that much. Yea, you need good toold if you do professional work, but i won't give almost half a year of my wage on a soldering station. Sorry, not intended for hobbyists.
I've been using some sort of solder sucker for about 35 years. I find that the quick shot of a large volume of air works great to evacuate melted solder from a via, large and small. The large chamber also holds a lot of solder and the tip doesn't clog up. I just heat the joint until the solder is fluid, then quickly put the solder sucker over the molten solder and suck it away. After the job, just separate the top and bottom halves of the unit and dump out the solder bits. I've been using a SOLDAPULLT DS017 (www.edsyn.com/product/DS017.html) for at least the last 10 years.
If you visit the link in the description, I have all of the capacitors I used as well as a post explaining why I picked different ones. There are many revisions of the PCB, but in general, the ones on that list will get you most of the way.
a Hakko FR-301 desoldering gun will do the same for $300. On a c64 use 60/40 lead solder and most soldering irons around 65w or so will do the same work. i've done the soldering work with old radio shack irons many years before soldering stations were available reasonable.
When you ripped off the GPIO pins from the raspberry pie, you could have easily broken some traces on on the board. Proper way of doing it to resold the pins with soldering wire with rosin core. This would reflow the solder pin, making it easier to suck out. Also when you found out that one of you filter capacitor was too short, you could have easily solder an extension lead from another cut filter cap lead and thus properly connect your filter cap.
The "clock" on the TI85 is just a resistor/cap. I remember back in my college years of people telling me what cap to remove and it would work fine except for some lines across the screen, but would just need a reset there. I think it would of been better to put a smaller cap in there, but at the time I didn't know alot about electronics but I knew how to use some pliers and snips:P
@James Lewis - I have a 23w basic soldering iron and a solder sucker. What is the minimum wattage needed for this type of work? How does a higher wattage help this kind of task?
You never need to change the ceramic caps they never drift lol. even working on Radios from the 20 I have never seen one move. but I change them with axial MLCC capacitor because it just makes the board look cleaner on the C64's work on. they even make axial electrolytic so you don't have to geto rig them caps in like that..
5 лет назад+1
Does this Weller have a fuse on primary side of tramsformer? I heard they are selling cheap gear with basic safety issues.
a USB capture kit that takes composite video from the Commodore and lets your mac capture it. It's ok for testing but you can't really use it for say, playing a game, there's way too much lag. Just google "usb capture composite video mac compatible"
Thus far for me was a static generator, just stoped working i was afraid wires had been crossed to the tri AAA battery holder. Took it all apart nothing wrong. Grrr so i checked the baterys that had been in the flash light i had just cannibalized for a year or more. Ha! Suppose to check power first!🤣🏌️♀️
@@awo1fman LOL. Ok I'll bite... if you consult the Oxford English Dictionary (a recognised source of the correct pronunciation and meaning of English words) you'll find that the L in solder is present for the correct English pronunciation of solder. "Sodder" is the incorrect pronunciation of the word, and seems to only be done by some Americans. Other English speaking countries all pronounce the word correctly. You may also like to note that the word Illiterate refers to the ability to read and write. Not the ability to pronounce words. You should have probably tried to insult me with a Phonemic Disorders or Dysarthria. Take your pick, but use the correct word ... and correct pronunciation please!
@5:00 by spreading the capacitor leads wide like that will stress the rubber seal and it will leak years sooner than a buying a proper axial capacitor that fits there. Second did you compare the ripple current specifications of the old caps? If those new poly ones don't meet the same ripple capacity, then the computer may have intermittent brown outs and crashes.
On polymer capacitors, there isn't a rubber seal because there is nothing to leak. The polymer layer is solid. Regarding ripple, polymer capacitors have at least an order of magnitude less ESR which means they have at least an order of magnitude more ripple current capability. So yes, I compared those specs. I think you need to watch the TLC video on polymer capacitors, because they are significantly different from traditional aluminum electrolytics (which your comments apply to.)
@@bald_engineer I've used them before, and polymer caps are wrapped just like a regular electrolytic cap. But if they have a solid core then they are surrounded with a electrolytic liquid. Only ceramic caps are a solid material without an electrolytic liquid. Where the leads stick out of the cap is the weak spot on all caps. What caps did you use, I would like to look them up.
@@MidnightVisions It is difficult to correct your misconceptions here without pictures and references. I've created a thread on element14 with links and details. I've also included a few articles which I wrote when I was a technical expert at a capacitor vendor. Find the information here: www.element14.com/community/docs/DOC-91431/l/workbench-wednesday-04-capacitor-replacement-on-a-commodore-64-a-lesson-in-through-hole-soldering#comment-152632
You should have at least checked the ESR. The ceramics are fine. Unless it was a high hour unit, Ill bet the original caps would be good for another 40 years. Thats me though...
The ESR won't shift over time on a ceramic. And on an electrolytic, you need to measure their leakage, not ESR. Regarding the ceramics, they do have an aging rate. Every decade-hour they lose up to 5% of their capacitance. Decade hours occur at 1, 10, 100, 1000, 10000, and 100000 hours after they last reached their Curie point. Through-hole capacitors only hit that point during their original manufacturing. (Surface mount hit it during reflow as well.) Manufacturers rate the capacitance after between 48 and 1000 hours (and that has changed over time.) The reason I changed them is that they are low-quality ceramics and are a Z5U rated dielectric which means they have an aggressive aging rate and poor temperature stability. So, swapping them out with fresh X7Rs seemed like a good idea. Is it necessary or critical? Probably not, but I'm in there and they are cheap. Regarding the electrolytics, the 10uF decoupling caps are in excellent shape. I measured the leakage of a few and they are WELL below a parametric fail. (You can see that in TLC #42.) The three large electrolytics capacitors, however, are at their limits. If they went through test verification today, they would be a parametric fail.
5 seconds is a long time to heat up a pad like this, plus however extra long time you spent heating it in the first place. That sounds like a great way to get lifted pads on such an old board made to a price. Never ever do this on a Spectrum board.
Well, not sure what to tell you. In all, I did over 100 capacitors, which is over 200 pads. A single one never lifted. Heat is also an important consideration. I'd rather use a lower temperature with a slow ramp up and down, to limit thermal expansion. I settled on 5 seconds. I didn't just pick 5 from the start.
Thank you for saving another Commodore 64
Biggest blunder was not knowing I needed flux. Flux is the key to good soldering.
I actually thought this would be like a restoration video, but it was an ad. Which i don't dislike, if the ad is well-made (like this one), then why not.
BUT.
Lets start with WXP65, since its closest to my ZD-916 soldering station. It's 65W and it's ONLY a soldering pen, meaning you need 24V adapter (not recommended) or the station in order to work with it. Price? 204€ on Farnell. I got mine for around 60€, its 60W, whole unit with a decent pen, temperature setting and digital display.
WXP120, the 120W soldering pen. For some reasin a bit cheaper than WXP65, 190€ on farnell. Again, just a pen, no station/controller/whatever.
And the station itself, WXR3. 1850€. I mean.. my used VW Polo costed me that much. Yea, you need good toold if you do professional work, but i won't give almost half a year of my wage on a soldering station. Sorry, not intended for hobbyists.
I've been using some sort of solder sucker for about 35 years. I find that the quick shot of a large volume of air works great to evacuate melted solder from a via, large and small. The large chamber also holds a lot of solder and the tip doesn't clog up. I just heat the joint until the solder is fluid, then quickly put the solder sucker over the molten solder and suck it away.
After the job, just separate the top and bottom halves of the unit and dump out the solder bits. I've been using a SOLDAPULLT DS017 (www.edsyn.com/product/DS017.html) for at least the last 10 years.
Link is no good. I guess they discontinued that model.
That's okay though, Amazon has it for $20.
Could you show me what cap kit you got? I need to do this on a few C64s. Thanks!
There's a lot of C64 revisions, you need to find one that matches your revision.
If you visit the link in the description, I have all of the capacitors I used as well as a post explaining why I picked different ones. There are many revisions of the PCB, but in general, the ones on that list will get you most of the way.
Good lord. That de-soldering station is almost $2000 ?!
a Hakko FR-301 desoldering gun will do the same for $300. On a c64 use 60/40 lead solder and most soldering irons around 65w or so will do the same work. i've done the soldering work with old radio shack irons many years before soldering stations were available reasonable.
When you ripped off the GPIO pins from the raspberry pie, you could have easily broken some traces on on the board. Proper way of doing it to resold the pins with soldering wire with rosin core. This would reflow the solder pin, making it easier to suck out. Also when you found out that one of you filter capacitor was too short, you could have easily solder an extension lead from another cut filter cap lead and thus properly connect your filter cap.
The "clock" on the TI85 is just a resistor/cap. I remember back in my college years of people telling me what cap to remove and it would work fine except for some lines across the screen, but would just need a reset there. I think it would of been better to put a smaller cap in there, but at the time I didn't know alot about electronics but I knew how to use some pliers and snips:P
@James Lewis - I have a 23w basic soldering iron and a solder sucker. What is the minimum wattage needed for this type of work? How does a higher wattage help this kind of task?
Not very experienced but biggest blunder was using a butane soldering iron and burning the PCB. Fire bad! Now I use it to light my wood stove.
how thick should the solder wire be? 1mm or 0,5mm?
You never need to change the ceramic caps they never drift lol. even working on Radios from the 20 I have never seen one move.
but I change them with axial MLCC capacitor because it just makes the board look cleaner on the C64's work on. they even make axial electrolytic so you don't have to geto rig them caps in like that..
Does this Weller have a fuse on primary side of tramsformer? I heard they are selling cheap gear with basic safety issues.
Hey. Question. How did you connect commodore to iMac?
a USB capture kit that takes composite video from the Commodore and lets your mac capture it. It's ok for testing but you can't really use it for say, playing a game, there's way too much lag. Just google "usb capture composite video mac compatible"
Hey I wonder where I can buy Weller products mentioned in this video 🤔
I love you guys at Element 14 and Farnell though. More in depth builds please.
Thus far for me was a static generator, just stoped working i was afraid wires had been crossed to the tri AAA battery holder. Took it all apart nothing wrong. Grrr so i checked the baterys that had been in the flash light i had just cannibalized for a year or more. Ha! Suppose to check power first!🤣🏌️♀️
Aren't Polymer Caps too low Impedance for such old Electronics??
Arrrgggghhhh... Soddering !!! Where's the "L" !!? :-)
You probably enunciate th "y" in Hyundai, too... because you're illiterate...
@@awo1fman LOL. Ok I'll bite... if you consult the Oxford English Dictionary (a recognised source of the correct pronunciation and meaning of English words) you'll find that the L in solder is present for the correct English pronunciation of solder. "Sodder" is the incorrect pronunciation of the word, and seems to only be done by some Americans. Other English speaking countries all pronounce the word correctly. You may also like to note that the word Illiterate refers to the ability to read and write. Not the ability to pronounce words. You should have probably tried to insult me with a Phonemic Disorders or Dysarthria. Take your pick, but use the correct word ... and correct pronunciation please!
@@BigJonYT That was nucelar come back. What about aluminium vs aluminum?
Here follows my favorite "because America" response. There are two types of countries: those that say 'solder' and those who've gone to the moon!
@@evancourtney7746 or there is those that don't say sodder OR solder and were first in space.
@5:00 by spreading the capacitor leads wide like that will stress the rubber seal and it will leak years sooner than a buying a proper axial capacitor that fits there.
Second did you compare the ripple current specifications of the old caps? If those new poly ones don't meet the same ripple capacity, then the computer may have intermittent brown outs and crashes.
On polymer capacitors, there isn't a rubber seal because there is nothing to leak. The polymer layer is solid.
Regarding ripple, polymer capacitors have at least an order of magnitude less ESR which means they have at least an order of magnitude more ripple current capability. So yes, I compared those specs.
I think you need to watch the TLC video on polymer capacitors, because they are significantly different from traditional aluminum electrolytics (which your comments apply to.)
@@bald_engineer I've used them before, and polymer caps are wrapped just like a regular electrolytic cap. But if they have a solid core then they are surrounded with a electrolytic liquid. Only ceramic caps are a solid material without an electrolytic liquid.
Where the leads stick out of the cap is the weak spot on all caps.
What caps did you use, I would like to look them up.
@@MidnightVisions It is difficult to correct your misconceptions here without pictures and references. I've created a thread on element14 with links and details. I've also included a few articles which I wrote when I was a technical expert at a capacitor vendor. Find the information here: www.element14.com/community/docs/DOC-91431/l/workbench-wednesday-04-capacitor-replacement-on-a-commodore-64-a-lesson-in-through-hole-soldering#comment-152632
Lame advertising... I know that Element 14 is a store, but I do prefer when you show "real" applications... I will probably unsubscribe...
My wife and kids wanted to make an 8x8x8 LED cube each for their first soldering project...
You should have at least checked the ESR. The ceramics are fine. Unless it was a high hour unit, Ill bet the original caps would be good for another 40 years. Thats me though...
The ESR won't shift over time on a ceramic. And on an electrolytic, you need to measure their leakage, not ESR. Regarding the ceramics, they do have an aging rate. Every decade-hour they lose up to 5% of their capacitance. Decade hours occur at 1, 10, 100, 1000, 10000, and 100000 hours after they last reached their Curie point. Through-hole capacitors only hit that point during their original manufacturing. (Surface mount hit it during reflow as well.) Manufacturers rate the capacitance after between 48 and 1000 hours (and that has changed over time.)
The reason I changed them is that they are low-quality ceramics and are a Z5U rated dielectric which means they have an aggressive aging rate and poor temperature stability. So, swapping them out with fresh X7Rs seemed like a good idea. Is it necessary or critical? Probably not, but I'm in there and they are cheap.
Regarding the electrolytics, the 10uF decoupling caps are in excellent shape. I measured the leakage of a few and they are WELL below a parametric fail. (You can see that in TLC #42.) The three large electrolytics capacitors, however, are at their limits. If they went through test verification today, they would be a parametric fail.
🖒
What were the puns? I'm confused... O_o
Seriously!? If I wanted ad filled lessons I will watch TV. UNsubscribed.
I hope you tinned the cap leads as you cut them after soldering.
This is not a good practice as it leaves the end of the lead to oxidie.
5 seconds is a long time to heat up a pad like this, plus however extra long time you spent heating it in the first place. That sounds like a great way to get lifted pads on such an old board made to a price. Never ever do this on a Spectrum board.
Well, not sure what to tell you. In all, I did over 100 capacitors, which is over 200 pads. A single one never lifted. Heat is also an important consideration. I'd rather use a lower temperature with a slow ramp up and down, to limit thermal expansion. I settled on 5 seconds. I didn't just pick 5 from the start.
It's not a soldering iron you need to use to fix a C64, Its a Sledge Hammer. :D