Be careful with the handbrake cables, they are not available as new parts. Use a pipe clamp to compress the fingers. If you're tempted to split the rear hubs to remove and refurbish the brake backplates (Lotusbits do occasionally have replated ones), then be aware that the crush tubes for the rear bearings are NLA. Lotusbits sell a bearing kit with a shim to enable a second use of the crush tube, but you'll still need to find someone who can set up the bearing preload. It's basically the same job as setting up a differential pinion. Put a cheap socket over the head of the rear bridge bolt and use a stout G-clamp to put as much pressure on the bolt as you can. Use the strongest heat source you can. MAPP gas at a minimum and OxyAcetlene if available to heat the cross sleeve on the bridge. You need to create as much temperature difference between the sleeve and the bolt (to expand the sleeve relative to the bolt), not just get both hot. If it comes down to it, a used bridge isn't all that expensive.
Thanks Paul... I will probably leave the rear bearings as they are. They are fine. I would like to clean up that backplate, however, but may try doing that with it attached to the hub. I managed to remove those chassis atachment bolts by appying heat a couple of times and fully charging my Makita impact wrench. One of the bolts I had to cut because it was bent, but I did no other damage. The UNF high-torque bolts should be delivered on Monday. I removed the handbrake cable (I admit, I damaged one finger each side). It took a lot of fiddling about. I had the idea of threading an exact-sized washer over the end of the cable to compress the fingers, but thought of that after the event. Slow progress but getting there! Cheers!
Авто/Мото
Not easy at all, and once again a big thank you as I will be following you and hoping for less rust and stuck bolts
Good luck with it Neli. Interested to hear of your progress!
Be careful with the handbrake cables, they are not available as new parts. Use a pipe clamp to compress the fingers.
If you're tempted to split the rear hubs to remove and refurbish the brake backplates (Lotusbits do occasionally have replated ones), then be aware that the crush tubes for the rear bearings are NLA. Lotusbits sell a bearing kit with a shim to enable a second use of the crush tube, but you'll still need to find someone who can set up the bearing preload. It's basically the same job as setting up a differential pinion.
Put a cheap socket over the head of the rear bridge bolt and use a stout G-clamp to put as much pressure on the bolt as you can. Use the strongest heat source you can. MAPP gas at a minimum and OxyAcetlene if available to heat the cross sleeve on the bridge. You need to create as much temperature difference between the sleeve and the bolt (to expand the sleeve relative to the bolt), not just get both hot. If it comes down to it, a used bridge isn't all that expensive.
Thanks Paul... I will probably leave the rear bearings as they are. They are fine. I would like to clean up that backplate, however, but may try doing that with it attached to the hub.
I managed to remove those chassis atachment bolts by appying heat a couple of times and fully charging my Makita impact wrench. One of the bolts I had to cut because it was bent, but I did no other damage. The UNF high-torque bolts should be delivered on Monday.
I removed the handbrake cable (I admit, I damaged one finger each side). It took a lot of fiddling about. I had the idea of threading an exact-sized washer over the end of the cable to compress the fingers, but thought of that after the event.
Slow progress but getting there! Cheers!
Use proper penetrating oil instead of wd 40. It’s just a water displacer