I'am hooking up the pressure plate to the clutch and clutch housing, the mauel sayss to line up the "o" from the clutch housing to the "o" on fly wheel, here is no "o" on the fly wheel, am I mising something here ? there is no "o" on ther fly wheel, do I ahve to line them up? it off a 235 motor, I can't go anyfarther then that, i have to stop til i figure that out. I have to instal the motor. It is a 1953 Chevrolet Bel Air.
Francisco, if you are installing a new aftermarket clutch and pressure plate they probably don't have these marks. My 49 and 54 Chevy clutch assemblies did not have these marks as I'm sure they weren't original. When I installed the clutch assembly I made sure to mount the pressure plate so all the holes lined up with the flywheel. I have had any vibrations or any other problems withthe clutch. I've got almost 3k miles on it now. If you don't have the marks I wouldn't worry about it, just make sure you properly tighten all fasteners and be careful. Good luck.
Been working on these trucks since I was a kid. I have two fat fender Chevys now. When you clean up these components, paint them so you can see grime and more easily keep them clean. A clean truck is a happier truck and more easily maintained.
Excellent Video. Thank you so much. I'm doing practically the same thing, removing a 216 from a 1950 one ton truck and replacing it with a 1954 235. Your video has helped immensely!
About to be swapping my 51 Chevy Suburban from a 216 to a 235…Any tips on getting the bell housing off the 216 that’s locked up?! From the looks of it I’m gonna have a hell of a time getting those bolts off inside.
Unfortunately you need to get that engine to spin which I'm sure you've already surmised. If you've already tried to let the cylinders soak for a day or 2 or 3 with PB Blaster or oil or auto trans fluid etc and tried to use a crowbar leveraged on the bellhousing and inserted between the flywheel teeth to try and spin it with no luck, you probably should remove the head and wack those pistons with a 2x4 & sledge. If that doesn't work dropping the pan and loosening the caps may also help. Getting at those bolts holding the clutch pressure plate is the problem. Good luck.
Back in the day we only had inline sixes. Had a 1951, 1963 and a 1966 pickup all chevy's. My cousin had a 1963 that had a 283 v8 but never ran as good as that 1963 six cylinder. The 63 was the Sunday car and the other two were farm use pulling wagons, hauling calves or what ever need to be done. That 1951 had a cold light in it, when you started it in the winter the light would come on until it warmed up if I remember correctly. Its been many years ago but I'm pretty sure there was. Was the car I learned to drive in.
Thanks for the quick reply. The truck has sat for at least seven years in a shed since it ran last. I'm hoping to rebuild the motor but If I can't I'm going to get suitable block. I'm going to keep it stock. I was thinking of removing the bell housing attached to the motor and leaving the trans in. is that possible?
Generally most folks will drop the tranny and remove the engine/bell housing assembly from the truck that way. I'm told it has to be done that way with the 4 speeds as it won't clear the mid cross shaft when attached to the engine/bell housing.. As you can see in my video the engine, bellhousing and tranny can be R&R'ed as a single unit when the tranny is a 3 speed. Good luck.
i think the starter ring on my flywheel is broken off. when you spin the starter it makes a god awfull racket. i crawled underneath and i can get my finger to the rings. and it's just floppin around in there
Jack the front end up and support with jack stands. Remove the two sheet metal covers on the bottom of the bell housing and you'll be able to spin it and check it better. Those starter ring gears are available if yours is toast. They come in 2 teeth counts, one for the 6v flywheel and one for the 12v flywheel. Generally 54 and earlier are 6v (139 teeth) and 55 & later are 12v (162). Good luck
Enjoyed watching and learning about these handsome trucks. Thank you. On removing the bell housing and its internals, how about placing the engine on a bench laying on its side, or on the floor on a wood pallet. That would facilitate access to the clutch, fly wheel easily. Your wooden stand also looks to giving way anytime. We want you safe!
I may be asking questions later. Just bought a 235 engine seller stated it’s low compression on two cylinders and is missing a push rod. Still it was cheap and beggars cannot be choosers here in the UK when it comes to getting Chevy parts. Anyway thought it will make an interesting project. Regards Chris.
Ask away, I'll help if I can. 1st thing to do with that 235 is put it on a run stand and do your own compression test. It'll give you a good idea whats wrong and takes alot of guessing and unneccessary work out.
Volfandt Yes am planning to building a run stand and paid a premium for a bell housing and starter motor. The only thing I’m missing is a carburettor. I was going to ask if you new anyone who can supply a good rebuilt Rochester for the 216 or 235 as it’s definitely overfueling. I found the remains of a rebuild kit that came with the truck so the previous owner has tried this already. I have bought another rebuild kit and an ultrasonic cleaner , but could do with another carb for spares and testing. Traced some of my running issues to a bad ignition coil. I’m in the process of changing from Petronix 1 to a new Petronix 2 lobe sensor igniter.
@@allthegearnoidea6752 Theres quite a few folks that enjoy this hobby that prefer Carter carbs over the Roch B, one of which is a long time rebuilder that is selling off some of his old stock. He goes by carbking and here's a link to an open ad he just put out on selling some carbs. www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/1313138/chevrolet-carter-carburetors.html#Post1313138 He doesn't do emails and only takes calls on certain days, that info is in his info provided at the end of his post. Here is another link to a Carter carb for sale : www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/1305185/carter-yf-964s.html#Post1305185 Both are on a forum called stovebolt.com which has info and knowledgeable folks that post there often. Several from the UK too. As for a Roch B carb, I had one on my 216 engine that was trouble free for the 6 years I ran it. It was dependable and never stranded me. Problem with Roch B carbs is there were so many different models and many have mismatched parts which caused them to never run properly. If you can find a original rebuildbale Rich B it would be a good carb to rebuild. Good luck Dave
Are you going to rebuild the engine, use it for parts or try to get it running? Unfortunately it's about impossible to get the pressure plate off without spinning the engine so the key is to find out where it's locked up and brake it loose. If you haven't, spray liberal amounts of PB Blaster, Kroil or whatever penetrating oil you like into each cylinder and let it sit a couple days, applying the oil frequently by spraying through the spark plug holes. You can speed the process up by removing the head. After soaking take a block of wood sized to fit into the cylinders and give each a wack to see if you can break it loose. Take a large screw driver (or pry bar) and engage the tip into the flywheel teeth and leverage it on the bellhosing and try to turn it that way. If that doesn't work it may have spun a bearing and if that's the case you'll need to drop the oil pan and loosen all main caps. Sometimes it's just rust in the cylinders locking it up and soaking for a day or two and trying to spin it with a large screw driver works, sometimes you have to go deeper. Good luck.
A good rule of thumb is NOT to remove more than what is necessary. I removed my bellhousing because I had to swap the 49 bellhousing onto the 54 235 engine inorder for it to bolt up to the 49 Chevy truck. Good luck.
I'am hooking up the pressure plate to the clutch and clutch housing, the mauel sayss to line up the "o" from the clutch housing to the "o" on fly wheel, here is no "o" on the fly wheel, am I mising something here ? there is no "o" on ther fly wheel, do I ahve to line them up? it off a 235 motor, I can't go anyfarther then that, i have to stop til i figure that out. I have to instal the motor. It is a 1953 Chevrolet Bel Air.
Francisco, if you are installing a new aftermarket clutch and pressure plate they probably don't have these marks. My 49 and 54 Chevy clutch assemblies did not have these marks as I'm sure they weren't original. When I installed the clutch assembly I made sure to mount the pressure plate so all the holes lined up with the flywheel. I have had any vibrations or any other problems withthe clutch. I've got almost 3k miles on it now.
If you don't have the marks I wouldn't worry about it, just make sure you properly tighten all fasteners and be careful. Good luck.
Been working on these trucks since I was a kid. I have two fat fender Chevys now. When you clean up these components, paint them so you can see grime and more easily keep them clean. A clean truck is a happier truck and more easily maintained.
Excellent Video. Thank you so much. I'm doing practically the same thing, removing a 216 from a 1950 one ton truck and replacing it with a 1954 235. Your video has helped immensely!
Thanks Tom, good luck with the swap, you'll notice a huge improvement.
About to be swapping my 51 Chevy Suburban from a 216 to a 235…Any tips on getting the bell housing off the 216 that’s locked up?! From the looks of it I’m gonna have a hell of a time getting those bolts off inside.
Unfortunately you need to get that engine to spin which I'm sure you've already surmised. If you've already tried to let the cylinders soak for a day or 2 or 3 with PB Blaster or oil or auto trans fluid etc and tried to use a crowbar leveraged on the bellhousing and inserted between the flywheel teeth to try and spin it with no luck, you probably should remove the head and wack those pistons with a 2x4 & sledge. If that doesn't work dropping the pan and loosening the caps may also help.
Getting at those bolts holding the clutch pressure plate is the problem.
Good luck.
I have a 48 panel truck , I bought in 1998 , and it's still sitting waiting on me
Thanks for watching.
@@Volfandt YOU REMIND ME OF ME WHILE WORKING , i JUST DON'T KNOW IF i COULD DO A VIDEO , IT WOULD SLOW ME DOWN .
do u still have the 216 flywheel
Sorry, it's not available. Thanks for watching
Back in the day we only had inline sixes. Had a 1951, 1963 and a 1966 pickup all chevy's. My cousin had a 1963 that had a 283 v8 but never ran as good as that 1963 six cylinder. The 63 was the Sunday car and the other two were farm use pulling wagons, hauling calves or what ever need to be done. That 1951 had a cold light in it, when you started it in the winter the light would come on until it warmed up if I remember correctly. Its been many years ago but I'm pretty sure there was. Was the car I learned to drive in.
Good story.
Dave
Thanks for the quick reply. The truck has sat for at least seven years in a shed since it ran last. I'm hoping to rebuild the motor but If I can't I'm going to get suitable block. I'm going to keep it stock.
I was thinking of removing the bell housing attached to the motor and leaving the trans in. is that possible?
Generally most folks will drop the tranny and remove the engine/bell housing assembly from the truck that way. I'm told it has to be done that way with the 4 speeds as it won't clear the mid cross shaft when attached to the engine/bell housing.. As you can see in my video the engine, bellhousing and tranny can be R&R'ed as a single unit when the tranny is a 3 speed.
Good luck.
i think the starter ring on my flywheel is broken off. when you spin the starter it makes a god awfull racket. i crawled underneath and i can get my finger to the rings. and it's just floppin around in there
Jack the front end up and support with jack stands. Remove the two sheet metal covers on the bottom of the bell housing and you'll be able to spin it and check it better. Those starter ring gears are available if yours is toast. They come in 2 teeth counts, one for the 6v flywheel and one for the 12v flywheel. Generally 54 and earlier are 6v (139 teeth) and 55 & later are 12v (162).
Good luck
Enjoyed watching and learning about these handsome trucks. Thank you.
On removing the bell housing and its internals, how about placing the engine on a bench laying on its side, or on the floor on a wood pallet. That would facilitate access to the clutch, fly wheel easily. Your wooden stand also looks to giving way anytime. We want you safe!
Thanks for the thoughts.
Are the six bolts holding flywheel on (with the locking tabs), reverse thread?
No, they are std thread.
Thanks for watching David.
I may be asking questions later. Just bought a 235 engine seller stated it’s low compression on two cylinders and is missing a push rod. Still it was cheap and beggars cannot be choosers here in the UK when it comes to getting Chevy parts. Anyway thought it will make an interesting project. Regards Chris.
Ask away, I'll help if I can.
1st thing to do with that 235 is put it on a run stand and do your own compression test. It'll give you a good idea whats wrong and takes alot of guessing and unneccessary work out.
Volfandt Yes am planning to building a run stand and paid a premium for a bell housing and starter motor. The only thing I’m missing is a carburettor. I was going to ask if you new anyone who can supply a good rebuilt Rochester for the 216 or 235 as it’s definitely overfueling. I found the remains of a rebuild kit that came with the truck so the previous owner has tried this already. I have bought another rebuild kit and an ultrasonic cleaner , but could do with another carb for spares and testing. Traced some of my running issues to a bad ignition coil. I’m in the process of changing from Petronix 1 to a new Petronix 2 lobe sensor igniter.
@@allthegearnoidea6752 Theres quite a few folks that enjoy this hobby that prefer Carter carbs over the Roch B, one of which is a long time rebuilder that is selling off some of his old stock. He goes by carbking and here's a link to an open ad he just put out on selling some carbs. www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/1313138/chevrolet-carter-carburetors.html#Post1313138
He doesn't do emails and only takes calls on certain days, that info is in his info provided at the end of his post. Here is another link to a Carter carb for sale : www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/1305185/carter-yf-964s.html#Post1305185
Both are on a forum called stovebolt.com which has info and knowledgeable folks that post there often. Several from the UK too.
As for a Roch B carb, I had one on my 216 engine that was trouble free for the 6 years I ran it. It was dependable and never stranded me. Problem with Roch B carbs is there were so many different models and many have mismatched parts which caused them to never run properly. If you can find a original rebuildbale Rich B it would be a good carb to rebuild.
Good luck
Dave
My 235 runs better thanks to your videos. Appreciate it brother!
Thanks Ary.
I can't spin my motor cause its locked up How can I get the pressure plate off?
Are you going to rebuild the engine, use it for parts or try to get it running? Unfortunately it's about impossible to get the pressure plate off without spinning the engine so the key is to find out where it's locked up and brake it loose. If you haven't, spray liberal amounts of PB Blaster, Kroil or whatever penetrating oil you like into each cylinder and let it sit a couple days, applying the oil frequently by spraying through the spark plug holes. You can speed the process up by removing the head. After soaking take a block of wood sized to fit into the cylinders and give each a wack to see if you can break it loose. Take a large screw driver (or pry bar) and engage the tip into the flywheel teeth and leverage it on the bellhosing and try to turn it that way. If that doesn't work it may have spun a bearing and if that's the case you'll need to drop the oil pan and loosen all main caps. Sometimes it's just rust in the cylinders locking it up and soaking for a day or two and trying to spin it with a large screw driver works, sometimes you have to go deeper.
Good luck.
would it have been esier to rmove the bell housing for that covered the clutch housingthe the pressure plate ?
A good rule of thumb is NOT to remove more than what is necessary. I removed my bellhousing because I had to swap the 49 bellhousing onto the 54 235 engine inorder for it to bolt up to the 49 Chevy truck.
Good luck.
It's the music👎🏻💩
Sorry 'bout that. Try muting it out if you continue to watch them.