USA vs CHINA vs INDONESIA - Not all Energizer batteries are created equal!
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- Опубликовано: 11 ноя 2024
- When shopping for AA batteries, Energizer is accepted by many to be the best....or are they? More importantly, are all energizer batteries created equally - with equal performance? I expected that to be the case, but it turns out I was wrong...and the mystery deepened from there!
What do you think about Energizer and what I've discovered? Comment below
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Duracell leaks if left for an extended time, Energizer Alkaline do not. Take it from a ranch owner that has dozens of feeders. I only use Energizer Lithium now. But curious about Members Mark Alkaline.
Time to rethink my battery preferences. I have always gotten best results from Energizer. However, I have not done any real tests or caparisons in years. I know RUclipsr "Project Farm" did some tests 5 or so years ago and the Energizers were close to the top in his tests. But, as most companies change their product and strategies over time, it appears Energizer is not what they used to be.
I suspect that 5-years ago all those energizers were made in the US. I was shocked to see the China and Indonesia labeled energizer….thank goodness they’re actively promoting Rayovac as US made. Hopefully that will keep Rayovac performance where it is right now
This is the video i want from a longer time, thanks brother.👍🏻
Stay tuned for a followup
I have been using energizers primarily for a long time based on RUclipsr test results, but over the past year or so I notice they have been dying a lot more so I switched to Duracell.
I noticed it in gun optics where I track the battery changes on the coin cells. I didnt bother researching much, but i remembered Duracell was a close second behind Energizer and they have been working fine.
Thanks for sharing. I wonder if you noticing a decline in performance coincided with the Indonesia and China made Energizer batteries becoming prevalent
In coin cells, if you can find a silver oxide version in the same size it will last a lot longer (and I've never had one leak) while maintaining a more stable voltage. I have to use those in my digital measuring tools or the calibration has to be redone multiple times per day.
When the package promises the cells will last longer in high tech devices, they are referring to power-regulated devices. The input circuit of modern electronics is programmed to consume less mA current when the available voltage is higher.* The Opus tester completely ignores the voltage level, unnaturally forcing the cell to maintain a certain current during the entire test. Any benefit the cell might have to maintain a higher voltage level, reducing mA consumption, is being tossed out the window in these tests.
*Modern devices need a certain amount of power to operate. By Watt's law P = I * V. The energy these devices consume is P * t, or Watt * hours. The power to perform a energized task is constant, but current will vary inversely proportional to the voltage supplied.
There is no notation that states those results are from power regulated devices. I doubt cheap electronics are metering the draw they put on a battery based on available power. In expensive electronics, possibly, but they would still operate as normal down to .90v (for many devices.) That means a constant 400mA draw will do a good job and predicting how long the batteries would last in a device that pulls that much power on a constant basis. An evaluation that draws a constant 400mA can provide an idea of how well the batteries will perform at a moderate-high draw.
If you’re expecting a test to account for every variable and performance from every device, I don’t think you’ll find that anywhere. Mfg’s cherry pick their results to favor any claims made. Especially when those package claims are based on a comparison vs another brand the same company owns.
I want to know what’s the best battery for my use. The opus discharge feature provides enough data for me to eliminate certain batteries from consideration. I’ve already eliminated the most expensive, so that’s a good thing from my perspective 😁
@@kev-reviews I'm sorry, "a constant 400mA draw will do a good job and predicting how long the batteries would last in a device that pulls that much power on a constant basis" is just not true in modern electronics. Your statement continues to go against science. mA is not power, just like RPM is not horsepower. I know your new Opus testers with digital display seems like a modern way to test longevity of various primary cells, but it just isn't. Their only purpose, as stated in the Opus manual, is evaluating rechargeable cells. When the cell is new, your tester behaves like a 4 ohm resistor. At the end, a 2 ohm resistor. There is nothing steady about the load. Just imagine you're driving a car with a CVT that is interrupting you from delivering power to the wheels. That's what the test is like.
I appreciate the comments and that some devices can regulate their needs and maximize battery performance, but that doesn’t take away from being able to baseline a battery with a specific constant mA draw. I noticed earlier you referred to “high tech devices” and “modern electronics.” Where on the packaging does it state modern electronics? There are devices that require batteries and can plane a high demand on batteries that aren’t modern electronic devices. Even in electronics, there is a great deal of variance in how those devices regulate their demand on a battery. I would argue that the most affordable products don’t regulate anything outside of having basic circuitry to make the device work.
@@kev-reviews An example would be a LED light vs the old incandescent maglight. The old flashlights would use a switch and a bulb holder, nothing else. If they did have a lower level, it would change the path to go through an additional resistor or diode. These are constant resistance devices. As the cells run down, the light gets dimmer, slowly becoming unusable. The old copper-top cell that isn't made any more was probably made to operate well in this type of device.
Almost all LED flashlights these days regulate the power to the LED, they need a buck/boost converter. Let's say it's running a 1W LED off of 1 AA battery. Assuming 100% efficiency, it will consume 667 mA when the cell is at 1.5V and 1111 mA when the cell is at 0.9V. A little math will tell you why most LED flashlights use 2 or more cells in series, that's a lot of current.
Regulated LED lights will run at full brightness, then suddenly shut off. They also feature multiple levels and may seem to flicker, especially at lower settings. So many devices these days use buck/boost converter that the cost is negligible. Only the absolute cheapest LED lights are without them.
If your test procedure was operating a regulated LED flashlight until the unit shut off, the run time would unrefutably reflect the longevity of the cell under test in a modern device.
The Opus charger does ignore the voltage, meaning the milliamps stay constant.
Many devices use fewer milliamps as the voltage drops, causing a double-whammy to performance (the reason an incandescent flashlight dims, same with the less expensive LED flashlights that use 3 or more batteries).
With alkaline batteries the difference with constant power is not as great as you might suspect. The reason is that alkaline has a significant Peukert exponent - the capacity drops rapidly at higher currents - and significant internal resistance (IR) - the voltage drops rapidly at higher currents. This combination means that constant power devices either need to be low power or they won't be happy on alkaline cells. For one example, check performance using an LED light with buck/boost (usually will have multiple levels) and the capability to operate on alkaline and lithium NCM (sometimes 3xAAA vs 1x18650 or 3xAA vs 21700/26650).
In short, constant current and measuring milliamp hours will produce a very reasonable representation of battery capacity. If you were to do a test with constant power starting at the same level (i.e. 400ma X 1.6v), your batteries would run out much more quickly because of the Peukert exponent and IR. If you were to do a test with constant power at the finish level (i.e. 400ma X 0.91v) your batteries would last a lot longer for the same reason unless you adjusted the constant current lower to match the starting current of the constant power test.
Every Duracell I have ever used held full charge longer than another. BUT, they all leaked after 8 months even if not used. I use Rayovac simply for price
Very few leak, even when dead. I went to batteries and bulbs to buy zeon bulb for my 4 D cell Brinkman flashlight. The salesman also sold me 4 D batteries for $.50 each. He said they are "industrial" grade. That wad 5 years ago. I leave flashlight in my trunk 24/7 365. Use it off and on about 2 times week foe about 40 minutes run time. Can't remember name, but they are kinda yellowish tan. They wete made in USA. The voltage on battery was stated at 1.86 volts. I measured voltage in June 2024 before heading on camping trip and voltage was 1.59 . Sooo someone can make better batteries than what's at local stores for hardly no more $$$. Also, salesman also said that problem with what we buy at local stores could be older, have been exposed to high heat or cold, or very high humidity which effects batteries, so we don't really know how fresh batteries are.
Like to see some lithium batteries. I primarily use energizer lithium(for lithium based), now this makes me question their reliability too
Too expensive for me currently, and I don’t trust the generic versions just yet
Yeah I was in Walmart last week almost all the batteries aren't made in the US is a dam shame I mean its batteries not iPhones.
I appreciate your efforts and how you revealed the diverse manufacturing facilities that Energizer uses. Very interesting. Energizer has a leak guarantee to replace or repair your device. Not sure of the lesser brands would do that. I have yet to hear of someone trying to make a claim.
I saw a video recently from people claiming their Duracell batteries had leaked and they were trying to get reimbursed from Duracell. I believe it was a Canadian tv show. I haven’t seen anyone try to make a claim on Energizer, but I do appreciate that they make the claim they will guarantee no leak for 2-years. At the least it opens the door to potential remedy should something happen…..and I totally agree that leakage guarantee is one thing the lesser brands omit - and IMO, are more likely to leak once depleted - potentially arriving already leaking
I have seen that Duracell has some problems like this too. I bought some Duracell AA batteries from Costco. The batteries leaked after only 4 months. They were not made in the USA. I think they were made in Belgium. I contacted Duracell and they did replace my device, because my device was damaged from the leaking batteries. They did stand behind their batteries. Thoughts?
Thanks for sharing
Honestly, leaking is usually an age thing.
For low draw things like mice, you're almost better off going with the cheapest batteries that die faster so they're going to be replaced sooner, reducing the chances they leak.
Either that or even going for the cheaper chemistry, carbon zinc batteries.
It's known that dead batteries bounce because of a mechanical changes to the electrolyte over time or usage. Should be no surprise that the chemistries that bounce are also the chemistries that leak. In my experience, lithium and nickel metal hydride are the chemistries unlikely to leak.
Don't go carbon zinc. You are guaranteed a leak. Those batteries the zinc is the outer containment of the cell and the chemical reaction eats that containment until nothing but the wrapper remains. The reaction is faster the heavier the load or higher the temperature but it never stops even if the battery is stored in a refrigerator. When the thinnest spot on the cell is perforated, electrolyte will leak and it is acidic. If it escapes the paper it will ruin a device in short order. I used to make carbon zinc cells in mason jars. The carbon is good until you drop and break it, the electrolyte and zinc need to be replaced to "charge" the batttery as the chemical reaction is not reversible.
I started suspecting since I bought Energizers from Amazon but then I noticed the color scheme was off. They were not Energizer Max! They are just called Energizer without the Max and are made in Indonesia. I wonder if they are just starting to differiante the Idonesia ones but I was only familiar with Max ones.
Likely some that were made before the max branding. What’s the good by date on them?
@@kev-reviews 12-2034
Iv been wondering this when I noticed I had energizers from Singapore, USA, Indonesia and Thailand! Who’s the best at the end of the day? It’s hard to know with so many different factories pumping them out.
Best AA Battery - Real World Test | Thunderbolt Edge - Rayovac - Duracell Energizer - Voniko +
ruclips.net/video/WAOunvjucwk/видео.html
@@kev-reviews ima check it out right now!
The chinese energizer use to suck big time years back, i would use the indonesia one instead if it was on offer. If not i will choose the made in singapore ones.
suprised about the max batteries taking a backseat. and would i'd be interested in seeing the members mark results.
In the CBC News report, the Energizer MAX lasted 27 hours vs Duracell 25 hours. Their equipment uses power consumption profiles that simulate computer mice, game controllers, and high power flashlights. e-Circuit came out on top for value. It's a good watch. They also explain why cells are "designed to leak".
Working on testing the members mark right now
I used to have good luck with Duracell but the last few I have purchased have all leaked ruining several devices.
Thanks for sharing
If Energizer is not owned by Disney they at least took their marketing rip-off tactics from them.
😂 good observation
Mine says Singapore. What the **
I’ve seen someone else say they have seen Singapore mfg too
This is by far the worst possible way to test batteries. Professional testing labs (including the battery companies) never test them in one long discharge cycle or at such high currents. Batteries behave dramatically different under different conditions.
In general, when it comes to disposable alkaline batteries, the lower and less frequent the load, the longer the battery will last (meaning the more energy you can ultimately get from the battery). Like if you ran a radio at fairly low volume for 1 hour every day vs putting it in a high draw flashlight new and leaving it on till the light turns off. Or even running a radio an hour a day vs just turning it on and letting it run until it will no longer hold a station or produce sound. You will get many more hours running it an hour a day than just turning it on and letting it play until the batteries go flat.
That sounds like simping for the battery industry. Different devices have different demands, and running a device on a constant basis will drain a battery faster. That’s common sense. That said, it doesn’t negate the value of being able to see how long a battery can run at a constant draw. I have many devices I run constantly at a high draw until they are depleted. Example: MTB night rides. 2 of my high power lights will suck down batteries within 2 hours. The Opus can mimick that exact same scenario.
@@kev-reviews Rechargeable batteries are different and able to handle high loads much better and are designed for longer loads.
Very, very few devices designed for disposable batteries run at high current start to stop, like a high power light. Most equipment designed for alkaline batteries aren't meant to just be turned on and left on for a long time. They also tend to size the batteries properly. A 500ma load on a D is much less damaging than a 500ma load on a AAA. This is precisely why alkalines come in different physical sizes.
I almost never buy disposable batteries. NIMH low self discharge batteries are better in almost every way and for 99.9% of devices meant to be powered with disposable batteries.
I haven’t seen any high power lights that recommend rechargeable batteries. I’ve seen them demand alkaline batteries.
@@kev-reviews I haven't seen a bike light for the front of the bike use anything but lithium in at least a decade, though more like 2. The really, really cheap rear lights will sometimes use alkaline. Any device that uses alkaline can use rechargeables.
I have a couple of high output head strap lights that suck down batteries fast. They use AAA. Regarding the mounted rechargeable lights. Those are integrated batteries. They aren’t constrained by cell size. I was referring to AA/AAA devices
Thank You for this. I will not buy Energizer battery's. Sorry, you can keep your cheap labor batteries