Let's talk about VCI corrosion inhibitors
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- If you've ever seen the little bit of brown paper wrapped around a new bearing or tool, and wondered what it's for, then here's the answer.
A VCI (Volatile/Vapour Corrosion Inhibitor) is an oily liquid that is often supplied pre-soaked into a slow release carrier like a sponge, porous tablet, paper or plastic block. Its purpose is to slowly release a vapour that coats all surfaces in an enclosure with a molecular layer of oil to shield surfaces against water vapour and oxygen to limit oxidation.
They are used to protect entire electrical panels, toolboxes, storage cabinets and individual tools or components against corrosion.
What are your thoughts on the composition of these? Is it just a fine oil and solvent like WD40, a blend of volatile and heavier oil or something more complex.
Have you ever come across the use of camphor or other materials in a similar application?
As mentioned in the video, it's important not to use VCIs in panels with modern solid state dehumidifier panels, as the deposition of an oil film on them will prevent them from operating correctly, since they work by absorbing humidity and transferring it outside using electroosmosis.
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Thank you Clive. I love the sensation that occurs when I learn about something that I had absolutely no awareness of.
The only one I know about was made by Shell called VPI for Vapour Phase Inhibitor.
Shell's compound was bicyclohexylammonium nitrite a solid at room temperature but with an appreciable vapour pressure. One group of chemists researching these compounds knew that nitrite ions were corrosion inhibitors in water, from their work on cooling system inhibitors during WW2. The other group of chemists had backgrounds in detergents, they tried to develop a molecule with different functions at each end, like a detergent, but in this case a metallophilic end to stick to the iron and a hydrophobic end to repel water. Combining the two ideas led to the final compound. My Father working at Shell at the time as an industrial chemist, had some slight involvement.
All iron surfaces at room temp have a layer of water molecules adsorbed on to the surface. The VCI not only repels this but delivers nitrite irons to the surface which actively inhibits corrosion.
I'm talking here about 1950s tech, I am sure there are better things available today.
The greasy feel of VCI paper is just the wax carrier for the inhibitor. I have a pot of the pure substance in the garage, enough to make several hundred square meters of the paper, I put a light dusting into micrometer cases and othe tool boxes.
There is a good Wiki article.
In the US we use a popular WD-40 spray for coating tools against rust, lubrication, and storage. WD-40 contains paraffins/isopraffins, mineral oil for lubrication, and mineral spirits as solvent. Basically it works similarly as VCI's.
@@BillAntThat's not really similar at all. Additionally, WD-40 isn't a great choice due to the limited amount of oil in it and the additive package, which results in residue rather than a coating. It's for Water Displacement, after all.
@@LN997-i8x- Well WD40 is not a good lubricant per-se, but it works well in many cases.
@@BillAnt Not a VCI it only has hydrocarbons and is a poor water displacer.
This is some fascinating stuff! I recently noticed some electronic components from one of the bigger suppliers started arriving in "vpci-125" bags, which apparently "does not affect optical properties". I'm curious what they are using, sadly they require logging in to view their SDS (why is that even allowed?). Makes me wonder how healthy breathing in those VCIs must be for people who work with them all day?
Just means the oils are going to not attack the more common clear plastics used in electronics, and will also not attack optical coatings on glass. As a lot of the optically clear plastics are based on styrene, must be a very light oil with a very low vapour pressure, and a minimal amount as well.
Well, they stop your lungs from rusting.
When I worked on crushers we would get large shafts and eccentric bearings in for various repairs. The machined surfaces were always wrapped in large sheets of this paper. The old-school mechanics lined their tool boxes with the stuff. The field guys who sometimes found themselves wrenching in the snow would use the sheets to cover their tools in the work body drawers.
I use the ones that come with fruit for a similar purpose, keeps the bugs down, and the vapour carrier also acts as a good holder when you hit it with a light coat of WD40, and allows it to release slowly over time. After all WD40 was developed exactly for this, preventing corrosion on metal surfaces.
WD40 stands for Water Displacement, 40th formula.
As I understand it, WD40 was to keep water from condensing and freezing on the outside of space rockets (which are very cold because of liquid oxygen and the like).@@SeanBZA
@@AnthonyCartmell ISTR the WD40 was for corrosion control during storage in the tube, as it was a thin coat applied to the bare steel missile, and would burn off during ascent, but in storage it would keep the missile from rust, as those bunkers got wet. Used because it was a lot lighter than any paint, and easy to apply to keep that thin film on the missile for protection. That it also kept ice formations from adhering strongly only applied to the very early ICBM units, which used cryogenic liquids, the later ones that used room temperature storable propellants, even if they are incredibly toxic, or solid rocket motors, did not have this issue.
We made gears for a top tier German automotive company. Each gear was placed in a cardboard separation lattice, with VCI impregnated paper between each layer. When the box was full a lid was strapped on and dispatched. We never had any rust issues at at. We also shipped items to the US by sea and used the same VCI paper and again had no issues. Good post thank you 👍
Supply a few steel mills with VCI wrap for their rolls. It's definitely big business.
Always stoked to receive car parts for my 30 year old car come in VCI baggies!
Yes have used all of them, and the camphor ones are mostly napthalene, which I buy locally as urinal pucks, which are merely the naptha crystals, which are almost waxy to the feel, compressed into a puck. They last a long time, and are commonly used to keep insects out of clothing in cupboards, as most things that eat cloth and paper do not like the smell. Also works somewhat in the garage to repel rodents, for the same reason.
The VCI paper is nice, and works, provided the area they are in is sealed well, which is why the military and airlines use it to wrap all parts, often with a big sachet of dessicant, either silica gel or simply oven dried kaolin clay, and then these are packed in a hermetic plastic pouch with a vapour barrier. good for decades when sealed, and needs no other special storage other than keep out of direct sunlight, and keep dry. Pull out rubber parts packed since the 1970's and they are still pristine, after decades sitting on a shelf.
Well, you learn something every day! My dad (now sadly departed) was a toolmaker at the start of his working life and had a superb collection of tools. He kept a block of camphor in his tool cabinet and Inow know why! Thank you Clive.
I used to work at a spring manufacturing company. Most bed springs that we produced were wrapped in in VCI paper. They were pre cut sheets that you pulled through pre soaked rollers giving the proper amount. A deferent rust preventer but no VOC that we also used was a NAs product that was Lanolin based. This was micro fogged onto products. Prevented rust and lubricated at the same time.
For my large woodworking machinery with cast iron tables (which rust exceptionally quickly in our cold, damp winters) I have made homebrew oilcloth dropsheets to drape over them. My shed is unlined, so condensation can drip off the rafters and puddle on the tables. I filled a bucket about ⅓ full with a boiled linseed oil/white spirit mixture, then placed a cotton single bed sheet (from a charity shop) in the bucket for a couple of days. I extracted then bundled the sheet a few times, in a few different ways, until the oily mixture was squeezed throughout. Then I hung it on the clothesline (on its own) on a sunny day. After about a week, the linseed oil had solidified a bit, but it still felt oily to the touch. They keep the machined surfaces in quite good condition.
Thanks funny. I was just digging through electronic components a couple hours ago and came across a bag with a film capacitor in it hat was marked “Vapor Phase Corrosion Inhibitor”.
I thought it was interesting and made a mental note to learn more about it when I had time. First video to catch my eye upon opening RUclips ends up being exactly about it.
When you said "home security device" my brain took a second or 2 until it clicked that you're not talking about something like an alarm system but about what the lobby in a certain country considers the best/only option for "protecting yourself and your family"...
Great and very informative video, fascinating what people came up with to protect their valued tools/parts from rust.
My old mechanical cuckoo clock will testify that a small piece of felt soaked in liquid Paraffin (Kerosene) also works well. A tip passed on from a clockmaker many years ago.
I'm so naive - I wondered what "home security device in a safe" was referring to and the image of some kind of security video recording equipment appeared in my head 😂
When I was still at sea as an engineer, we used to open up spares wrapped in the paper, quite often there would be surface rust. The best spares were "fully tropicalised" which meant they had been put in a tin can, a bit like a can of beans. We would have to go to the galley to open them up.
3:20 My favorite way of getting around "proprietary" blends or mixes is to just look at the SDS for it. The SDS shows what chemicals are in it and at what %. Although SDS can be hard to find sometimes, it's law (in US) that a company must be able to provide an SDS for any chemical they sell. This product is 90-95% heavy naphthenic petroleum spirits and 0.5-1.5% mineral oil.
The heavy spirits evaporate extremely slowly, and carries/deposits the mineral oil. You were correct.
This used to be my favorite way as well....but it no longer works like that. Since June 1, 2015, when the world changed from MSDS to SDS with the new GHS system (Globally Harmonized system), manufacturers are no longer required by law to post ALL ingredients in the new SDS format. They are only required to list any ingredients that are "hazardous" for health, flammability or reactivity.
There are many very important ingredients that can have downstream combinability and non-toxic or non violent reactions within manufacturing that do not make the normal lists of health/flammability/reactivity. Once they went to SDS I found products that I have the original MSDS for that showed maybe 5-6 ingredients in the compound now only show maybe two for the same product.
@@jessegreenwood1956Wow, that is truly disgusting that they can do that.
Sadly some US manufacturers (for example Cortec) now seem to require you to request access to their SDS. Wonder if that's automated or if you have to wait for someone to manually approve it...
So basically petrol and baby oil
I am a machinist, in an extremely high humidity area. I often find old... ancient machinest tool boxes(traditional wood and metal aswell) in awful environments with bricked packages of champfer that turned to dust over time. But amazingly large amounts of tools and custom jigs... parallels.... ect... have held up in them really well. Where everything around it sat for 40 years since they seen light around it, have more or less dicentagrated. Leaving a bit of a diamond in the rough.... I'm also texting while running a lathe... Forgive the spellin'
I have a product called "Evaporust" still in its packet from the 1950's that I found amongst a deceased relatives belongings, it appears to be a sheet of brown paper that is impregnated with "something" and the instructions say it should be placed in the bottom of a drawer or toolbox etc to prevent corrosion!
I imagine this is an early iteration of a similar product/principal!? 👍✌️🖖
a surprisingly enlightening video complete with comments from well informed people.
I built Semi truck engines when I was working. The piston sleeves (large!) would come boxed in that style paper and with big silica packs in them. I just kept those and tossed them in my drawers. Keeps my tools spotless still today.
Never point a "home security device" at anything you are not willing to destroy.
Never count on a home security device to keep you secure because it's more likely to be used on you or your house mates than anyone else.
@@VladimirPutin-p3tOr accidentally by a playing child, on itself, a sibling or friend.
You can buy plastic or paper bags that are treated as well as the little sponges.
I usually call these VPCI (vapor phase corrosion inhibiter).
Calling these oils is a real stretch, they are complicated chemical mixtures.
They don't just coat the surface but actually chemically inhibit corrosion.
I buy the sponges (or little plastic boxes) in cases of 24 and then put them into my various toolboxes.
I replace them every couple of years.
My guess is that the "trade secret" part of these products is getting the ratio between the heavier and lighter vapour fractions exactly right, as such that whatever carrier solvent is employed has just enough vapour pressure to carry the heavier hydrocarbon but not too much so that the carrier solvent evaporates and leaves the heavier fraction behind on the substrate. I would expect that kerosene would evaporate much too quickly and therefore not result in the even dispersion of anti corrosive oil that is wanted. The secret ingredient is probably a low molecular weight polymer, perhaps PEG-400.
Indeed, my first guess seems to have been right, based on good ol' Wikipedia:
"Vapor pressure is critical parameter in VCI effectiveness. The most favorable range of pressure is 10−3 to 10−2 Pa at room temperature. Insufficient pressure leads to the slow establishment of the protective layer; if the pressure is too high, VCI effectiveness is limited to a short time."
The trade secret part is because they do not want you to make it. How much replacement tools and equipment is done and how much do they make. Rust free metal is not what they want,.
@@tonysheerness2427 That isn't true when your product is a VCI that prevents tool corrosion.
I am sure they do not want competition.@@andromedaturnbull3512
Ratios are hardly a trade secret.. anyone can work that out. Trade secrets are chemicals that are kept secret. Just look at MDS for various chemicals.
I'm a big collector of military radios. They frequently have that signature military mothball smell which we all know and love.
I recently purchased some Zerust Rust Prevention Plastabs - 1" x 3" yellow plastic bits. I haven't had them long enough to comment on efficacy. I mentioned them because they reminded me of insect strips of yellow plastic we used when I was quite young (65-70 years ago). They were Shell No Pest Strips. I think they went out of fashion because eventually, people realized they were constantly emitting a small dose of poisons into the air we were breathing.
i remember those insect strips. i seem to remember i felt a little ill from being near them. i forget what the poison was but the same stuff was put in items designed to put on your pet and were thought to shorten your pet's life. they were still around about 20 years ago in australia. i warned a mate about them, who didnt believe me. then a few months later he told me his vet warned him off them.
@@vsvnrg3263 Dichlorvos, an organophosphate with a structure similar to organophosphate nerve gasses.
Fixing the small nail hole in the shed roof had amazing anti rusting effects on all my metal tools.
Also not storing chemicals like hydrochrolic acid in the same building. Actually, I've never figured out a safe way to store stuff like that. I just keep it outside and far away from everything.
And ferric chloride.
Earthen ware soaked in baking soda helps put your sealed acids in the closed pot and keep them cool
My great grandad apparently used to keep his spanners, sockets and ratchets in a regular tool box, and then at the end of the week, he'd give all of them a dunk in a vat of used engine oil, then chuck them over a mesh grate for a couple hours, maybe as he went to clean himself up from the day's work, maybe go outside and defrost his car on the way home, maybe have a quick coffee, etc. And then he'd place them back in his tool box. Tell you what, he never had a rusty spanner or socket!
I throw my ratchets and other mechanical tools in automotive (often diesel or cheap standard) oil once every couple years. I usually use cheap new oil to avoid any acids and contamination from old oil. Same with the heads of my power tools, and sometimes anything else that is bare iron or mild steel. The CRC rust protector is my favorite for longer term or more serious protection. It's like a better cosmoline. More waxy than oily. I wonder if it's lanolin based, that stuff is good for anti-rust and undercoating.
The composition of VCIs differ based on the desired material to be protected eg iron, copper etc. But mainly they contain some solvent which is volatile oil and the active ingredient can be substance with low volatility or one which slowly sublimes and deposits molecular layer on the object which we want to protect. Examples of such compounds include for iron dicyclohexylammonium nitrite, dicyclohexylammonium carbonate and for copper benzotriazole, tolyltriazole and many others formulations.
Hi Clive, super huge sheets are used in motor manufacture when they store panels waitng to be assembled into car bodies. Also the paper has a side that must be in contact with the metal to work at maximum effect. Many thanks for all your very informative videos. From Nr Chester, guess where I used to work.
Vauxhall?
@@davidyates748 in one haha
@@chrissmith7655 just down the road from there myself, small world eh!
Our MOD stores always had bare metal items covered in thick brown grease, waxed paper, (3 layers), a thick cardboard oiled box. Cellophane wrapping and an outer box treated internally to stop oil leaking and a dessicant pouch. Latterly replaced with a square of that vapour stuff and a jiffy bag. Ex WW2 stores emerge as new, the new er stuff, dry with rust sheen. Our forefathers knew a bit about packing it seems.
even just good old camphor is good stuff, I've left tools with some camphor in the chest locked up in a temperate rain forest for a year straight, not a sign of rust. Its pretty hard to find a worse enviroment for gauge blocks then a rain forest that gets cold!
Pretty sure it was synthetic champhor but that does not matter, chemically they are identical.
I also have heard of using rosemary, I've no clue if it works but I know a woodworker who swears by it and apperantly rosemary does have camphor in it... just not a lot.
A company I worked for that had equipment outside in steel enclosures used Zerust capsules and they were magical, you couldn't tell anything was happening, but nothing corroded.
I have a Zerust VCI sponge inside my ahem home security device safe and it has done an excellent job protecting those blued steel devices from Florida's insane humidity. Wonderful stuff.
From what I've been able to gather the stuff basically works like Halon, bonding preferentially with metals and thereby excluding oxygen. No idea if that's accurate but it seems plausible.
That reminds me I have a 25l barrel of vci engine oil used in CAT vehicles for overseas Shipping and long term storage
The Department for Redundancy Department will be in touch in due course.
I've specified them as an alternative to conformal coating of the PCBs for an oil pipeline SCADA system in the wilds of Sumatra. The issue I had with conformal coating was it cannot be applied to almost sealed relay coils and the various connectors involved in the system. Also conformal coatings can mess with heat dissipation.
There certainly is an element of snake oil attached to this but they do seem to work. There's also oxygen scavengers which are just iron filings in a porous bag which are often packaged in bags of foodstuffs. I doubt any of these devices will last forever so regular inspection and replacement is in order at least once per year.
Oxidation of iron is why confined spaces in ships need to be well ventilated before anyone enters or a respirator with an oxygen supply is required.
@@major__kong I'd never thought of that, I only thought it was because of noxious gases. That's really interesting and possibly applicable to other places as well.
1:55 They look alarmingly like those nice Halls menthol sweets!
I coat my tools in camellia oil if they are going into long term storage. For things like saw blades and everyday tools ptfe dry lube from wd40 works well.
Camellia oil worked for the samurai on swords and armour and it seems to form a bond with the metal that doesn’t break down. Only issue is the price
Concur with the use of camellia oil. It leaves a very durable, non-oily coating when it dries, is nice to work with and enhances the look of metallic surfaces. Nothing I protected with it has ever shown any deterioration. You don't have to use a lot and using the same rag every time means a little goes a long way.
Useful! I hate rust as much as I hate woodworm.
camphor laurel tool boxes and sandalwood and teatree blocks were common in days of yore.
Thank you for showing that :D I always wondered what those white tablets were in tools I have bought :D Never heard of those oils, but then I don't work in that industry lol. Wondering if I should buy some to keep with tools in a tool box just to keep them all good, like screwdrivers, pliers, wire cutters etc :) Thanks again :) xx
This is the first ever Big Clive video that I've been bored with.
I assumed they used something like cosmoline but thinner, and the paper lost its writing from the grease. Thanks for the lesson!
I always get a good laugh at your clever word replacements to avoid the ole yewtoob algorithm of censorship.
I use WD40 and that seems to be effective against rusting tools but it is not for oiling. But I also use German oil, I believe Ballistol, has a very distinctive smell. I recall smelling it in my childhood from lots of electronic/electromechanical machines such as record-players, film-projectors & such.
Interesting subject!
That was the traditional oldschool method for using WD40 to store tools/things you might not use but once in a while; you'd spray it on a thick brown grocery sack paper and wrap the paper around the thing to be stored rather than spraying directly onto the tool/thing. It worked really well for things like spare tools stored in the trunk of a car or specialty tools you'd use only occasionally.
bugger so all the tools i wrapped in VCR tape is not going to inhibit the corrosion. I thought it was too good to be true 🙂
Years ago I knew an old machinist whose toolbox smelled of moth balls. I assumed that's what it was. I always thought it to be odd. Now I know what it really was!
Machinist here, we ship anything steel with some vci. The paper is so cheap that it'd just be criminal to ship a part only to have it arrive rusted.
I've found Boeshield to be very impressively effective toward corrosion/rust prevention. I have used it on various engine parts that were stored outside with high humidity and for "home security devices" with great results. Kinda smells like WD40, but it leaves a much thicker coating similar to wax.
Back in the day when I had a motorcyvle.......
We used to use some stuff called ACF-50... google it...
for winter storage protection on the metal bits on the bike...
not sure if this the same type of thing....
we blew the moths out when we started riding again in spring......
N x
I have just seen exactly this in Keith Rucker's latest video, in his case of gage blocks - I figured it being soaked in some oil-related thing would account for the text in all caps on it saying "DO NOT USE WITH FOODSTUFFS"... ;)
I wear stone gauges and apply "lobe lube" to my plugs before putting them in every night. The camphor and eucalyptus oils seem to cook off over about 6 months, what's left winds up going rancid shortly after. Frustrating when you purchase 2 at a time and find that both are rancid when you go to open the second one due to rancid first container.
Been using Napier VP90 in my ‘liberty cabinets’ comes as a paper sachet like a giant teabag with double sided tape to stick it to the door. Seems to work well enough.
Not a bad idea. I wonder if a strip down every bar... err "combustion cylinder" might be a nice long term that is tiny enough to be shot out if missed when pulling it out.
@@nobodynoone2500 I just pull through each tube after giving them a squirt of VP90
And I always thought your tools came with free candy 🤣
I used NOX-RUST paper to wrap components when I had my workshop before I retired, this was a brand name of some slightly waxy brown paper which would keep things rust free for years.
Sublimation not evaporation ❤
Apparently, Camphor is used in good ol' Vicks Vaporub, I was just looking up the spelling of it cos I was reminded of a Red Dwarf episode where Lister burns part of a storage chest, cut out and shaped like a guitar, belonging to Rimmer which was made from Camphor wood, but, the Vicks thing, well, there's a new one for me, I thought it was based on eucalyptus or something... :P
Interesting, I use a product called VP90 here in the UK in my, er, tool safe.. The marketing waffle talks of 'innovative vapour phase action'. Looks like I could just buy some of that liquid instead and save a bit of money ;-)
I just pop one of those silicon gel DO NOT EAT packets in the back of the tool drawers. When I get more, I add more and throw away the oldest ones first. Seems to work so far.
Vapor paper has been around forever. You may be able to find whats in them by looking up the cancelled us mil standards. Small wave guidebsections and flange seals used to come in vapor paper pouches. Fairly recently mitutoyo gages had a token strip of the stuff in the cases.
I wouldn't call that "home security devices"
If they are in a save, sure, they are ... save, but not useful for your home security
If you sleep with them under your pillow they are definitely not secure
I've seen multiple long term corrosion inhibitor tests. And a thin coating of regular old 30 Weight motor oil almost always beat out the "top secret" formula products you mentioned. I do use the impregnated tabs in my toolbox, since I live in a very humid area. My tools are not climate controlled and no rusting in 20 years on anything.
Would a sponge soaked in a new motor oil 30 work also? 🤔
We used to place a cap full of kerosene in old clocks to keep all the gears lubricated. Worked great as I have an old mantel clock that has been running for 40 years without lubrication.
I was always told to keep a bunch of copper pennies in your toolbox as the would stop stuff from rusting.
I'd expect a metal to metal reaction risk. The copper penny trick does have fungal control applications though.
I throw that paper in my toolbox and spare parts bins along with silica when I find it in packages. Silica only6 lasts a year or so but the paper seems to do its thing for a decade or so depending on how well sealed it is. Wonder what kinda cancer it's giving us...
I kept my block plane with VCI paper in the box. no rust on the blade, but the brass created a thin layer of green copper oxide. So now I just resort to a wipe with jojoba or carmelia oil.
We got VCI paper on engine parts at the engine recon place I worked at. I took the paper home to put in my Gun cabinet.
Camphor blocks, I got it now!
Denso tape does something similar to prevent corrosion in marine environments. When the solid "evaporates" into a vapor its said to have "sublimed" , the opposite process is called "superlemon"
Guitar (and other instrument) strings come in paper envelopes made of this kind of material.
It's the cheapest way to avoid Returns, and long time storage. Beings some of those items, could be sitting somewhere for Years.
The problem is the atmospheric (temps) they are stored in.
It must be warm enough for the aromatics to form and distribute.
Of which at those same temperatures, a dissacant would suffice. But those are an environmental Hazard,.. because people Eat Them 😂
... if i read the packing correctly
I'm sure they could add Both Together.
An aeromatic with a dessicant. As long as the One, doesn't suck up the Other.
PB Blaster Magnetic Spray,..
Is what I juice tools of any kind down with.
Most people that have tools. Crimpers or a crescent wrench. Don't use them every day. But still would like them to be useable. Even after a dozen years.
And they are always easier to clean, than Replace. And you don't have to Douche Everything Down. Unless you're Aquaman 🤣
That BLUE THING,..
May be a Spong. And that's for a Totally Different,.. secretion 😳
... time is money too
Interesting, I have seen the brown paper before but didn't know about the vaporising effect.
Wiping steel tools with a cloth soaked in WD-40 works well.
For steel kitchen ware olive oil is a food safe anti oxident.
Olive oil is also safe for sealing food preparation blocks often made from beech wood.
Back in the day my doctor prescribed a blue solution to counter such irritating incursions. As for brown paper wrapped around new tools, that was an earlier type of prophylactic...
We had a mantle clock that stopped running & mom always said that she wanted to lubricate it by dipping a feather in kerosene & leaving it in the bottom of the cabinet. I eventually found a clock shop & it turns out the mechanism was broken, and they use very little oil these days.
The feather is the wick version of the classic kerosene trick where a capful of kerosene is placed in a clock case and permeates it with vapour.
We (Rolls-Royce) wrap jet engine fan blades in VCI paper when shipping the engines back to the customers after repair and overhaul. It's amazing stuff.
I will look into trying VCI's, I tried little voile bags filled with cat litter in my tool trays and they work by absorbing moisture, not 100% but it does work.
Thanks for the video. Now I know the brown paper my tools are coming with are in fact an active protection element and not simply packaging. I also didn't know that champher was used for this. These tablets I see often when we work with customer appliances. Sometimes they are put in a special cage in these devices.
They say to use this on Ferrous metals, but I have seen it used on stainless as well.
I've heard of people suspending old clock mechanisms over paraffin baths so the fumes give them a cheap and cheerful oiling without having to take them apart.
That does sound a good way to gently lubricate the whole thing.
Paraffin is a solid hydrocarbon wax if you’re the average person in the USA, and something more liquid if you’re an expert in the USA or nearly anyone in other countries.
I'm curious what effect these products may have on electronics. I keep a couple of radios in my 'freedom safe' as it also acts as my Faraday Cage (actually just a handy place to store spares).
BTW: have you done anything regarding Faraday Cages? My memory ain't what it used to be ;-)
I've mentioned Faraday cages, but not made a specific video about them.
@@bigclivedotcom It would get you tons of views, if from an odd bunch. It's worth explaining, and debunking many emf shielding bs products that arent grounded, sealed, or the correct mesh/conductivity to even do anything. I think faraday cages in irl use and conditions might be an interesting rabbit hole that few have explored with much rigor.
Now I know why my X-acto knife blades arrive wrapped in greasy paper. I thought it was just some pretentious affectation.
Never heard of this before, thanks Clive I have learnt something new 😊
I don't know if kerosene would be an effective corrosion inhibitor or even a carrier for such. Kerosene is somewhat hygroscopic and must be kept in tightly-capped containers to prevent it from absorbing moisture in the air. Stored properly, it has a nice long shelf life, which is why some Preppers invest in a small stockpile. We use kerosene convection heaters as supplemental heat for the house (and only source of heat in the garage) so I've delved far too deep into that rabbit hole. Our buying options are either $5-6/gal from a shady gas station, which we then add a water-removing treatment to because we've had water in the kerosene before, or $12/gal in 5-gallon jugs from Walmart/Home Depot/Lowe's that we know we can trust.
And if you'd like some interesting reading about kerosene heaters without going too far into the weeds, look into kerosene space heaters being used for heating in rural areas of Japan. While America's kerosene heaters haven't changed much in 40-plus years, Japan has made some incredible innovations in that same time. Electronic thermostats, electronic ignition, air circulation fans, auto shut-off when tank is empty, removable leak-proof fuel tanks that you refill with an automatic battery-powered pump... It would be great to have one of those in my garage on the not-so-brutal days where I'm lighting my heater for small intervals.
I have 2 old aladdin brand from Britain that burn with a blue flame. No safety anything but an excellent design that doesn't smell when it operates. I've always wondered why the American kero heaters all burned with yellow flames. The literally stink.
I suppose that a pinch of camphor could preserve the innards/switch inside my solar garden lights...
The modern legend goes WD40 was developed as a rust inhibitor for airplane missiles of the air carrier air fleet and it's first recipe consisted of nafta - straight refined petroleum fractions from gasoline to kerosene mixed with some ammount of light paraffin fractions.
We have several old clock mechanisms that have a small container placed somewhere near the metalwork that contain 3 in 1 oil usually topped up once a year. Not as yet had any problems with mechanisms due to rust or dryness and on the flip side not dripping with oil either.
I've heard of kerosene being used as an ambient oil bath for clocks without soaking them in oil
Only ever seen the brown paper, though i have seen articles about 'Camphor Boats' :D
I've been using lanolin mixed with mineral oil lightly wiped on my tools to keep rust at bay. One little pot lasts a very long time. I've also used it to coat under the car and it's done a great job at keeping rust at bay there too. Pre manufactured, commercially available blends are also available to purchase at significant cost ;)
My father used to wipe tools down with the original GOJO lanolin based hand cleaner.
What kind of mineral oil do you mix it with? On my side of the world (Western Europe, The Netherlands), it could mean a variety of petrochemical products and not sure what kind to buy and mix it with the lanolin.
Is your mineral oil odorless? What is it general use case on your side of the world?
really enjoy hearing about how my grandfather and his grandfather would have cared for his tools and how I can do so today so that my grandchildren can use the same things I did
Home security devices
Might need some of that v80
I'm a fan of cosmoline and oil films like Corrosion-X and Fluid Film. Boeshield is kind of like cosmoline, and it comes in spray cans.
You might like to follow the Stuart DeHaro(?) series watching the efficacy of these surface protectants.
The yearlong test is coming to a close.
in my toolbox on a boat, i fill a sock with (uncooked) rice ,zip tie up. ive had no rusty tools for over 10 summers
And when you eventually eat the rice it is both pre-salted and has a mildly cheddar flavour.
wow reminds me of my days as a bearing inspector in a turbine overhaul shop. PW33 paper had a certain smell.
Just store your good tools in the kitchen if you are the type who cooks food from scratch. Plenty of oil vapor in the air when you get that cast iron pan piping hot 😁
Another reason to stay away from highly processed industrial "food"..
The way I understood it is it that the camphor vapour displaces the air. No air, no oxygen, no oxidization.
The liquid might ( ? ) be the answer to outdoor LED lights not having rusty legs ? ... FYI , NEVER put a bottle of A8 acid flux ( used for soft soldering Stainless Steel ! ) , in your toolbox , your tools will rust like MEGA BAD .... DAVE™🛑
Me: Tell me something I don't know
BigClive: Hold my beer
Interesting stuff. Thanks!
Well Clive, let me tell you what a VCI is from my stand point: a stupid place where you spend way too much time, with too much pollution and mad drivers all around you, every time you fancy a nice francesinha.
VCI= Via de Cintura Interna (Inner Belt road) in Porto.
😖😖😖😖😖😖
Very interesting Clive!! I think that would be very useful, I would be a bit concerned about breathing anything that gives off VOCs but I learned quite a bit from you