I had from the late 60's. It had lens filters, snake shutter release, flash arm/hotshoe and cable. It made a great stealth camera as it would easily fit in a coat pocket even with the leather case. The polarizing filter actually fit under the cover when it was closed. It had some limitations vs a 35mm SLR, but not many. I loved it. It was my favorite camera when out fishing or camping because of its size in a 35mm format.
I just got the Retina II type 142 my Grandfather bought in West Germany just days before the border was closed. He used this camera for over 40 years in the GDR. After that it was stored for about 30 years bevore he gave it to me. And it still works perfectly.
What that spring does is basically stop the counter and cocking when the roll gets to exposure 1. If it breaks you wont be able to advance. Its an easy fix if you don't mind manually turning the counter as you shoot. The tooth can be gotten to by removing the skin from the lever. Underneath there will be 2 screws that hold the plate which holds the tooth and its spring in place inside the lever. Get those 2 out and put everything back together. Or you can just replace the spring if you have one
I want to say your videos are a joy to watch and listen to and you provide great tips in-between all the information about the cameras. Your video about the IIIc was basically my user's manual. Thanks!
I found in an attic this bag with this camera in a mint condition case and it's literature almost never used. I've been a photographer for twenty years and have been using Digital but you have really inspired me to go out and do something I haven't done in 15 years and that's go buy B & W film. Great stuff, I have no idea what I'm doing but your video really helped. So pumped! Thanks!
I learned photography using a Kodak Retina II in the 1970's, that my Dad had purchased while posted as an Army Artist in Germany during the Korean War. I had a home darkroom, and shot bulk loaded Tri-x. I now have 2 Retina IIas that are just beautiful gems (along with a Voigtlander Vito II that has a Color Skopar lens with a Synchro Compur 1/500 shutter) that I got from the thrift store! :-)
I have a Retinette 1a and a Retina 1a.The Retinette has a selfie timer. The Retina has a Schneider xenar 2.8 50mm which is very sharp. I love these cameras. I want one with a rangefinder on now after watching this video.
I have a gorgeous Kodak Retinette IB camera which works brilliantly, even the meter is fairly accurate. I really enjoy shooting with it. It is incredibly well-made and sturdy, but does not a built-in bellows however. It was made in Germany and the lens is superb. Thanks for your review.
Hi David, I just wanted to thank you for this video I was just given this camera (as well as a couple others and am starting somewhat of a collection) by my grandfather and I wanted to learn more about it and maybe start taking pictures with it. Everything you said was extremely helpful so thanks so much.
Thanks so much for this review. I have a small camera collection and I have this model. I have been trying to learn more about it and I want to start taking photos with it. Very helpful !! The photos you have taken with yours are fantastic
Old video. New comment. Just acquired my Type 016 from a relative. It's in fine shape and I also got the leather case - it's beautiful. The build quality on this camera is amazing! I can't wait to run some b&w film through it and develop it. Great video.
Thank you! And the lenses on these are great. I have one from a camera that was in a house fire that I scavanged and mounted for use on my A7S II. It's great.
Thx for the video. IIa is really a sweet thing. Love the advanced stroke very much, smooth and solid. Dont forget to set the counter to 36 or 24 when you put a roll of film inside， otherwise you cant advance and think it is a lemon. After folding it, it easily fits in your jeans pocket though it is very heavy. If I hve to choose one camera with me, this one will be the one. No batter is needed.
David, thanks for a great video of the Retina iia. I just got one included in the purchase of a Yashica A TLR. Owned by a Korean War Army Photographer. I'll know how to treat it. Hope to run a few rolls of Kodak Ektar 100, thru it.
Thank you, Steve. I am. I haven't needed a pain killer in eight hours, something I couldn't say last time until week five. I ended up selling it because I hadn't used it in a few years. If I had a small number of core cameras of different types that I used, I'd have kept it. But, since I'm never at a shortage for a new camera to shoot, I've been letting cameras that sit idle go to owners who will use them.
If anyone would like to venture into any kind of repair on retinas, retinarescue D.OT co.m comes in pretty handy as far as dis/re assembly goes. I don't think Chris from that site goes into what I was describing but it worked for me. All that has to be taken off is the film advance lever and the stop pin and a tooth can be seen.
Nice camera. Many Retina fans say that the IIa is their favourite model. The later IIc and IIIc models are better in many aspects, but it has the wind lever on the bottom, which some users hate. Personally I prefer the IIc. The viewfinder is easier to use if you use glasses, as I do, the lens standard is sturdier and the shutter has a selftimer. And it can use the accessory wide and tele lenses (I have them, but they are cumbersome to use).
I have a 1a and its beautiful :-) I call it an engineers camera because any engineer worth his salt will love the workings of this camera!! AND I love the little 'click' right at the end of the film wind! :-)
I am with You ! 100%. Those are the best. I like the german craftmanship at its best. So I am collecting them: Got 12 Retina 2a with Schneider optic , and 8 with Rodenstock. But also the Retinas 1a (1:2,8 or 1:3,5 Schneider) fullfill the same standards ! Same idea but no range finder.Love them l: Got 26 of them..LOL...and I am using them.
13:10 There's no solenoid in the shutter, but there is an M/X switch. X is used for modern electron flashes, and M is for different types of flash bulbs. The switch is completely mechanical. At X the flash goes off when the shutter is fully open, and set at M the flash goes off just before the shutter is fully open, so the flash bulb has time to fully light up. I've never seen a selftimer that fits an accessory shoe. That would have been nice though.
I will admit that a shutter's inner workings are somewhat of a mystery to me in some ways. As for the self-timer accessory, I saw one once on eBay that was an aftermarket brand not specifically for the Retinas. I forget the make, but it was also German. It had a bracket that fit into the accessory shoe and then a clockwork mechanism that connected to a cable that arched to the shutter release button. Pretty nifty gizmo, actually.
The 9x12 Recomer by Kodak was also a very good camera. It was a folder that was similar to the Zeiss Ikon Maximar and the Voigtlander Bergheil from the 1930's
I'm really glad to hear it, thank you! I have a bunch of videos on photography, including film photography. If you have any questions or ideas for videos that would help you, let me know.
I recently got a Retina II(type 142).Made in 1937-1939.The noticeable differences are-winding knob and separate counter.The cable release socket is separate from the shutter button.No accessory shoe.Round windows for the rangefinder.Also the rewind knob has no writing on it.Mine has the Compur Rapid shutter.Also has seperate rangefinder and viewfinder windows,and depth of field scale on the bottom.So far everything is checking out fine so I hope to run some film through it before long.
I don't have a IIc, though someday that would be a nice addition. I agree that, for me, the film advance on the bottom is a deal breaker for it being my favorite camera, or favorite in a family. I have a Balda Baldinette with an advance knob (different, I recognize) on the bottom and it's very difficult to use. That camera's difficult to use for other interface issues, though.
those photos are stunning that camera is stunning . I know what you mean about kodak camera's and I don't disagree BUT I think for whom the vast majority of them were made for, the genral consumer , they were fun cameras, that produces good / fun results. I just wished they didn't discontinue the Retina/ high end cameras. but I'm seriously looking at getting one off of ebay. just gorgous.
Thank you and I concur, Kodak definitely made cameras for the consumer -- fun and easy. I also agree, it would be nice if they still made something very high-end camera-wise, because their film is great and deserves to be used in a great camera.
Thanks for the reply. I like brownies for their history, even though their images are limited due to their simplicity. Have to say, I like the retina shown a little better than the rangefinder model. By the way, I enjoyed your video.
Thank you. A bit of an older video, I know, but I just got this very model camera and I was looking for some instructions. It came with the manual, but it wasn’t very helpful. This was much more useful. You answered every question I had about the camera except one: what the heck is that little green switch on the lens next to the flash sync dial? Mine has it too. I can’t figure out its purpose!
Correct, typically. In one of the cameras I'm researching for my next group of videos, it has a leaf shutter but can only sync the flash accurately up to a certain speed. In general, though, leaf shutters can sync at any speed.
Hi again, David...I went back a ways and saw your responses to similar questions, so I am all set. I will be curious to see how the results of the Retina compare to my Minolta v2. Thanks again
You're welcome. Truth be told, when I filmed the video, I didn't know what it does (so I skipped it.) Since then, I've learned that the green lever switches the flash sync from X to M (electronic flash to flash bulbs.)
Interesting. I sometimes use accessory selftimers with cameras that doesn't have one built-in, and one that fits the accessory shoe would be very practical. Better than one just hanging from the shutter release, swinging and can cause vibrations. Some selftimers can be directly screwed in on the shutter release button, but I prefer to use a cable release extension cable for those, to minimize vibrations.
If you only use the 50mm lens, I find this to be the about the best mechanical 35mm you can get. The only problem is that the viewfinder tends to darken and turn yellow. Along with this there is the Konica and the Voigtlander Vittessa.
That is doable, and I didn't know that was possible. I don't know how many people would venture such a repair. I've even taken many cameras apart to fix them, and I'd not venture that.
Yes, you did. Nice find! It's going to ship out tomorrow. I packed it well for you and you should be pretty happy I hope. I also found a lens hood (not the original, but it came with it and works) that I put in the package, too.
Awesome and thorough review. Agreed... Kodak on camera's except these gems were crap. Their market was mostly entry level amateur photographers, the house wives and average joes. They do however still produce stunning color and Black and white Tmax film which is amazing. I love using film and have two brand of camera's, Couple of Rolleiflex's and 2 Leica M3's. The Retinas look amazing.
Thank you! And yes, Kodak films are amazing. Tri-X 400 and Ektar are, I think, the best films they're making and in a list of my top five films, I think both would appear. The Portra series is magnificently engineered, too, and really shows what top-notch talent Kodak has.
I just inherited this Camera from my grandmother and I believe it is working. Only question I have is that I am not seeing the shutter leaf open or close, even when I move the aperture. Everything else is working. It does not have any film in it. Could the shutter leaf be stuck or does it have to have film to open and close? Any tips?
The leaf shutter should only open when the shutter fires. To check it, set the lens to a slow shutter speed and that will let you see if the shutter is firing. To check the aperture, it should be behind the shutter leaves and you can check that from the back of the camera with the film door open.
Rule of thumb on most lenses was that they would focus as close as 8 times the focal length. So 8 ×50 mm (2 inches )=400mm or 16 inches,that is without any close-up apparatus on or behind the lens.
Nice video, David, feels a bit nostalgic today, but that's just cool. Mine is a european version, with a Rodenstock Heligon 2.0 lens, and a leather case. I intend to use it, the only issue is that I find changing the aperture is a bit tricky. Any tip on that? In general I find german Kodak cameras to be quite good. Most cameras, with some exceptions, of any interest, were made in Germany, Japan or the Soviet Union.
@@DavidHancock It's the lever that's tricky to operate, the aperture blades works smoothly. I think you said to push the lever backwards slightly? I seem to have some problem coping with that lock mecanism.
@@Analogbrain That sounds correct. Asterisk, I sold this camera years ago and am 60% through a 41-hour work day work four flights, so my brain is a hair foggy. I recall having to pick the level back towards the lens a bit, but too much and the level would fight back.
@@DavidHancock Thank's for the answer! I bought an entire collection of cameras some years ago from an elderly gentleman, and this was in it. Don't push yourself too hard man!
@@DavidHancock Hi David! Thank you for offering your advice. The issue is what about the camera is, actually, "not" doing. The shutter stopped working. All parts are working and "sounding" as usual, but the shutter does not "shoot".
Hello again, David...just underneath the shutter speed dial and the 250 to 500 speed, there is a green lever. If I did not know better, I would say it looks like a countdown lever. I have the original manual and there is no mention of a timer. Do you have any idea of what it might be? Thank you! Doug
Thank you, Doug, and I do that's the flash sync lever for electronic (X) strobes and bulbs (M). Leave it on X as bulbs are generally impractical now and any flash you buy today will be an X flash.
Hi David- I recently came across a Retina IIa at a flea market, in good shape but the focus ring is LOOSE- it simply turns with no resistance and no movement/ travel of the lens. Do you know if this is a common problem and any resource for repair instructions for this issue? You're right about how beautiful this camera is, and I hate to just walk away from it. Thank you!
Nice! That does sound like it's broken. I have no idea how to fix it. Odds are something that connects the focus ring to the assembly is broken or mis-aligned. www.retinarescue.com may be of more help beyond that.
Loved your video, really helpful. Just found one of these in perfect shape with the case (no tears or sign of age). Bought it at a flee market for $32, what is it really worth?
Hi David...I always enjoy your videos. I just purchased one-can't wait to receive it! How do you set the ASA? Does 100/200 correspond to the 'daylight' setting? Thanks, Doug
kodak had the sense to use Schnieder lenses instead of the popular. Zeiss lenses of the day. Schnieder was a wise choice. Only single coated on this camera so get a lens hood. Even the cheaper Schnieder xenar and Reomars were excellent.
It's been a long time since I sold mine. I think there's a Retina Owners Fan Club that's still around. They used to have (and I assume still do) a good web page that should have resources.
@@Astyanaz When I press the button it goes all the way down but nothing happens. The film advanced lever is still stuck. The shutter button is also stuck and will not depress
That's definitely not how it's supposed to work, so there could be a couple possibilities: 1- Old cameras sometimes break in odd ways, so part of the mechanism might be worn. 2- The frame counter has to be manually reset when the film is loaded. I've often forgotten to do that.
These were really good cameras for sure and definitely pocketable. If you can find one that's in shooting condition, as opposed to collector-grade, it would be a great carry-around camera.
Well, that's a tough question. So it could either be the rangefinder or the lens which is out of focus. It could also be the rangefinder-to-lens connection. Either way, opening these is not easy and they're exceedingly complex. The best option is to send it for a CLA. The CLA will include focus recalibration.
@@pctechadam1188 Thank you. Reminds me of a funny story An Afghan, an Albanian, and Algerian, an American, an Andorran, an Angolan, an Antiguan, an Argintine, an Armenian, an Australian, an Austrian, an Azerbaijani, a Bahamian, a Bahraini, a Bangladeshi, a Barbadian, a Barbudans, a Batswanan, a Belarusian, a Belgian, a Belizean, a Beninese, a Bhutanese, a Bolivian, a Bosnian, a Brazilian, a Brit, a Bruneian, a Bulgarian, a Burkinabe, a Burmese, a Burundian, a Cambodian, a Cameroonian, a Canadian, a Cape Verdean, a Central African, a Chadian, a Chilean, a Chinese, a Colombian, a Comoran, a Congolese, a Costa Rican, a Croatian, a Cuban, a Cypriot, a Czech, a Dane, a Djibouti, a Dominican, a Dutchman, an East Timorese, an Ecuadorean, an Egyptian, an Emirian, an Equatorial Guinean, an Eritrean, an Estonian, an Ethiopian, a Fijian, a Filipino, a Finn, a Frenchman, a Gabonese, a Gambian, a Georgian, a German, a Ghanaian, a Greek, a Grenadian, a Guatemalan, a Guinea-Bissauan, a Guinean, a Guyanese, a Haitian, a Herzegovinian, a Honduran, a Hungarian, an I-Kiribati, an Icelander, an Indian, an Indonesian, an Iranian, an Iraqi, an Irishman, an Israeli, an Italian, an Ivorian, a Jamaican, a Japanese, a Jordanian, a Kazakhstani, a Kenyan, a Kittian and Nevisian, a Kuwaiti, a Kyrgyz, a Laotian, a Latvian, a Lebanese, a Liberian, a Libyan, a Liechtensteiner, a Lithuanian, a Luxembourger, a Macedonian, a Malagasy, a Malawian, a Malaysian, a Maldivan, a Malian, a Maltese, a Marshallese, a Mauritanian, a Mauritian, a Mexican, a Micronesian, a Moldovan, a Monacan, a Mongolian, a Moroccan, a Mosotho, a Motswana, a Mozambican, a Namibian, a Nauruan, a Nepalese, a New Zealander, a Nicaraguan, a Nigerian, a Nigerien, a North Korean, a Northern Irishman, a Norwegian, an Omani, a Pakistani, a Palauan, a Palestinian, a Panamanian, a Papua New Guinean, a Paraguayan, a Peruvian, a Pole, a Portuguese, a Qatari, a Romanian, a Russian, a Rwandan, a Saint Lucian, a Salvadoran, a Samoan, a San Marinese, a Sao Tomean, a Saudi, a Scottish, a Senegalese, a Serbian, a Seychellois, a Sierra Leonean, a Singaporean, a Slovakian, a Slovenian, a Solomon Islander, a Somali, a South African, a South Korean, a Spaniard, a Sri Lankan, a Sudanese, a Surinamer, a Swazi, a Swede, a Swiss, a Syrian, a Taiwanese, a Tajik, a Tanzanian, a Togolese, a Tongan, a Trinidadian or Tobagonian, a Tunisian, a Turkish, a Tuvaluan, a Ugandan, a Ukrainian, a Uruguayan, a Uzbekistani, a Venezuelan, a Vietnamese, a Welshman, a Yemenite, a Zambian and a Zimbabwean all go to a nightclub... The doorman stops them and says “Sorry I can’t let you in without a Thai.”
ISO (the same as ASA on old cameras) is just a number indicating sensitivity. An Ilford 100 will have the same (basically) sensitivity to light as Kodak or Fuji 100.
David Hancock Right, I got that part. I was just wondering if the wheel on the left, with the old film brands, is referring to different ISO / ASA settings. Like - I have a Pentax from the same era, and that wheel is where the ASA setting wheel is. I assume that depending on how you set the ISO, the internal meter adjusts for that.
Zak Ferris Nope. There's no light meter. This has a film type memo dial, but the films it used were rated using a different system than modern films. So you can use that to help remind you of what film is in your camera. I use masking tape with the film type and as-shot ISO written on it. I usually put that on the bottom or where my nose will brush against the camera. It works well.
Here's a thread over at Rangefinder Forum that recommends some options: www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=51590 Chris Sherlock also has a fantastic reputation, though I've never personally used him. retinarescue.com/
Great video. Thanks! I pulled mine out of the collection to play with during the presentation. I think that I'm going to take some shots with this. As to the various models of IIa, there are only two, the Type 150 made from 1939 to 1941, and this one. The Type 150 has a winding knob rather than the lever on the 016. You might enjoy my collection at: www.web4homes.com/cameras/kodak-mid.htm I don't have all of my Retinas up there yet. See that you are in the SF area and get out on the Bay. Me too. Sail out of Berkeley, Best regards, Kevin
This is the one Retina that I have left (having sold my other.) It's a simply amazing camera and one of only a few rangefinders that I really like using. I like your site and have actually visited it before when researching cameras. I have photos of many of my cameras on my Picasa space and if you'd like to link to them for your site, you're welcome to if you give me the image credit. Living in the Bay Area is great (I'm out in Clayton.) When I worked in SOMA, it was a lot easier to get out around the water, but working now in Walnut Creek keeps me away from the bay much of the time. As a former kayaker who used to live on a lake, that's not always been easy for me.
David Hancock Hey Dave, have you played with a Retina IIIc? I just ordered this one from ebay: cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=191219219513&ssPageName=ADME:L:OU:US:1120 It seems to be very similar to the IIa 016 but with interchangeable lenses. Ironically, I picked up an old 35mm Retina lens a while back thinking it was for my newer Retina Reflex, but it looks like it is a 35mm for the earlier folders. I also ordered an older IIa model 150 just to have it in the collection. We are having a good year in real estate sales, so I'm expanding the company camera collection in new directions.
Kevin Murray Here's the link to my Picasa page. plus.google.com/u/0/photos/102333270936007447976/albums A sail would be great. I'm in the height of my work busy season, which goes until September 18, or so.
I think it's funny that you don't like brownie cameras. If the retina was the equivalent of 12 hundred dollars, the brownie was the equivalent of what, 35? Don't forget, Kodak put cameras in the hands of regular people, people who otherwise would never have access to a camera. The Brownie is the Model T of the camera world. The retina is a great camera, I have two, but the Brownie is an actual piece of history.
+Bandidos Yanquis I've come to like Brownies a bit more than I did when I made this video. I appreciate their simplicity, a lot, and even turned to the Brownie shutter design when I tried to make my own shutter a while back (I have a 300mm f/2.3 plano-convex lens I'd like to make into a fast LF portrait lens.) The Brownie was great for bringing photography into the main stream, the niche that cell phone cameras occupy today. Given how many Brownies still work today, they are incredible for their design simplicity.
Bandidos Yanquis Agreed! 99.986 percent of the public was not the market for the Retina. Comparing a Brownie with a Retina is like comparing A Chevy Spark with a Cadillac CTS-V. Yeah, they're both cars made by the same company, But for ENTIRELY different worlds. Or if keeping with the photography market, Compare a $180 Pentax Optio S1 and a $7000 Pentax 645z! And yes, the Brownie IS the photography equivalent to the Model T, great analogy!👍
Yes some of the camera snobs out there say that the general line of Kodak cameras were crap alright, however they sold Millions upon millions of them just in the United States. If you are an average person you had one or a member of your family had one don't lie.
I got this camera today at an antique shop for $10. It came with unused film and it still works like a charm. So rad.
I had from the late 60's. It had lens filters, snake shutter release, flash arm/hotshoe and cable. It made a great stealth camera as it would easily fit in a coat pocket even with the leather case. The polarizing filter actually fit under the cover when it was closed. It had some limitations vs a 35mm SLR, but not many. I loved it. It was my favorite camera when out fishing or camping because of its size in a 35mm format.
Thank you and these were good, little cameras. They would be fantastic for fishing trips, too.
I just got the Retina II type 142 my Grandfather bought in West Germany just days before the border was closed. He used this camera for over 40 years in the GDR. After that it was stored for about 30 years bevore he gave it to me. And it still works perfectly.
Nice! That's a great find and it's good to hear that it's still working!
What that spring does is basically stop the counter and cocking when the roll gets to exposure 1. If it breaks you wont be able to advance. Its an easy fix if you don't mind manually turning the counter as you shoot. The tooth can be gotten to by removing the skin from the lever. Underneath there will be 2 screws that hold the plate which holds the tooth and its spring in place inside the lever. Get those 2 out and put everything back together. Or you can just replace the spring if you have one
You'll love it. These are really superb cameras and their lenses are just fabulous.
I want to say your videos are a joy to watch and listen to and you provide great tips in-between all the information about the cameras. Your video about the IIIc was basically my user's manual. Thanks!
Thank you!
I found in an attic this bag with this camera in a mint condition case and it's literature almost never used. I've been a photographer for twenty years and have been using Digital but you have really inspired me to go out and do something I haven't done in 15 years and that's go buy B & W film. Great stuff, I have no idea what I'm doing but your video really helped. So pumped! Thanks!
I learned photography using a Kodak Retina II in the 1970's, that my Dad had purchased while posted as an Army Artist in Germany during the Korean War. I had a home darkroom, and shot bulk loaded Tri-x. I now have 2
Retina IIas that are just beautiful gems (along with a Voigtlander Vito II that has a Color Skopar lens with a Synchro Compur 1/500 shutter) that I got from the thrift store! :-)
Nice! They're awesome cameras.
I have a Retinette 1a and a Retina 1a.The Retinette has a selfie timer.
The Retina has a Schneider xenar 2.8 50mm which is very sharp.
I love these cameras.
I want one with a rangefinder on now after watching this video.
Thank you! The II and III models both have rangefinders and exceptional lenses as well.
I have a gorgeous Kodak Retinette IB camera which works brilliantly, even the meter is fairly accurate. I really enjoy shooting with it. It is incredibly well-made and sturdy, but does not a built-in bellows however. It was made in Germany and the lens is superb. Thanks for your review.
Thank you!
I love looking at old cameras. Thanks for the explanation of the rangefinder. I have heard it spoken about but never knew how it worked.
Hi David, I just wanted to thank you for this video I was just given this camera (as well as a couple others and am starting somewhat of a collection) by my grandfather and I wanted to learn more about it and maybe start taking pictures with it. Everything you said was extremely helpful so thanks so much.
You're very welcome. Take great photos!
Thanks so much for this review. I have a small camera collection and I have this model. I have been trying to learn more about it and I want to start taking photos with it. Very helpful !!
The photos you have taken with yours are fantastic
Thank you very much! You'll probably enjoy taking photos with this camera -- it's a lot of fun to shoot with.
Old video. New comment. Just acquired my Type 016 from a relative. It's in fine shape and I also got the leather case - it's beautiful. The build quality on this camera is amazing! I can't wait to run some b&w film through it and develop it. Great video.
Thank you! And the lenses on these are great. I have one from a camera that was in a house fire that I scavanged and mounted for use on my A7S II. It's great.
Thx for the video. IIa is really a sweet thing. Love the advanced stroke very much, smooth and solid. Dont forget to set the counter to 36 or 24 when you put a roll of film inside， otherwise you cant advance and think it is a lemon. After folding it, it easily fits in your jeans pocket though it is very heavy. If I hve to choose one camera with me, this one will be the one. No batter is needed.
David, thanks for a great video of the Retina iia. I just got one included in the purchase of a Yashica A TLR. Owned by a Korean War Army Photographer. I'll know how to treat it. Hope to run a few rolls of Kodak Ektar 100, thru it.
Thank you!
I can't believe you sold it, David, dying to acquire one in working order.Thanks for the reply and a great channel, again hope your recovering nicely.
Thank you, Steve. I am. I haven't needed a pain killer in eight hours, something I couldn't say last time until week five. I ended up selling it because I hadn't used it in a few years. If I had a small number of core cameras of different types that I used, I'd have kept it. But, since I'm never at a shortage for a new camera to shoot, I've been letting cameras that sit idle go to owners who will use them.
If anyone would like to venture into any kind of repair on retinas, retinarescue D.OT co.m comes in pretty handy as far as dis/re assembly goes. I don't think Chris from that site goes into what I was describing but it worked for me. All that has to be taken off is the film advance lever and the stop pin and a tooth can be seen.
Great video man. Loading my first roll into my Retina today.
Thank you, and very nice! Enjoy shooting the Retina.
My dad gave me this about a month ago and it belonged to my grandfather but I have no idea how to use it. It’s so beautiful!
That's a great heirloom.
Nice camera. Many Retina fans say that the IIa is their favourite model. The later IIc and IIIc models are better in many aspects, but it has the wind lever on the bottom, which some users hate.
Personally I prefer the IIc. The viewfinder is easier to use if you use glasses, as I do, the lens standard is sturdier and the shutter has a selftimer. And it can use the accessory wide and tele lenses (I have them, but they are cumbersome to use).
Thank you for the information, Nice pictures too!
I have a 1a and its beautiful :-) I call it an engineers camera because any engineer worth his salt will love the workings of this camera!! AND I love the little 'click' right at the end of the film wind! :-)
Agreed! The old Retinas are, if nor the most beautiful cameras ever made, in the top 5. That's from both an engineering and aesthetic standpoint.
Defiantly :-)
I am with You ! 100%. Those are the best. I like the german craftmanship at its best. So I am collecting them: Got 12 Retina 2a with Schneider optic , and 8 with Rodenstock. But also the Retinas 1a (1:2,8 or 1:3,5 Schneider) fullfill the same standards ! Same idea but no range finder.Love them l: Got 26 of them..LOL...and I am using them.
Nice. Thank you!
13:10 There's no solenoid in the shutter, but there is an M/X switch. X is used for modern electron flashes, and M is for different types of flash bulbs. The switch is completely mechanical. At X the flash goes off when the shutter is fully open, and set at M the flash goes off just before the shutter is fully open, so the flash bulb has time to fully light up.
I've never seen a selftimer that fits an accessory shoe. That would have been nice though.
I will admit that a shutter's inner workings are somewhat of a mystery to me in some ways. As for the self-timer accessory, I saw one once on eBay that was an aftermarket brand not specifically for the Retinas. I forget the make, but it was also German. It had a bracket that fit into the accessory shoe and then a clockwork mechanism that connected to a cable that arched to the shutter release button. Pretty nifty gizmo, actually.
Great introduction to rangefinder cameras for me.Thank you
Thank you!
The 9x12 Recomer by Kodak was also a very good camera. It was a folder that was similar to the Zeiss Ikon Maximar and the Voigtlander Bergheil from the 1930's
Nice and thank you!
I'm really glad to hear it, thank you! I have a bunch of videos on photography, including film photography. If you have any questions or ideas for videos that would help you, let me know.
I recently got a Retina II(type 142).Made in 1937-1939.The noticeable differences are-winding knob and separate counter.The cable release socket is separate from the shutter button.No accessory shoe.Round windows for the rangefinder.Also the rewind knob has no writing on it.Mine has the Compur Rapid shutter.Also has seperate rangefinder and viewfinder windows,and depth of field scale on the bottom.So far everything is checking out fine so I hope to run some film through it before long.
M Poole The older Retinas were a bit more rounded. They're good cameras, too, and should be able to take fine photos if they work properly.
I don't have a IIc, though someday that would be a nice addition. I agree that, for me, the film advance on the bottom is a deal breaker for it being my favorite camera, or favorite in a family. I have a Balda Baldinette with an advance knob (different, I recognize) on the bottom and it's very difficult to use. That camera's difficult to use for other interface issues, though.
That's a great camera. There will be some differences, but you'll be very happy.
I've been lucky. I've run about 10 rolls of film through this in the last year (up to 36 frames) and haven't had any partial frame advances.
those photos are stunning that camera is stunning . I know what you mean about kodak camera's and I don't disagree BUT I think for whom the vast majority of them were made for, the genral consumer , they were fun cameras, that produces good / fun results. I just wished they didn't discontinue the Retina/ high end cameras. but I'm seriously looking at getting one off of ebay. just gorgous.
Thank you and I concur, Kodak definitely made cameras for the consumer -- fun and easy. I also agree, it would be nice if they still made something very high-end camera-wise, because their film is great and deserves to be used in a great camera.
WOW. Beautiful beautiful video! Thank you so much!
Thank you!
Thanks for the reply. I like brownies for their history, even though their images are limited due to their simplicity. Have to say, I like the retina shown a little better than the rangefinder model. By the way, I enjoyed your video.
+Bandidos Yanquis Thank you!
Thank you. A bit of an older video, I know, but I just got this very model camera and I was looking for some instructions. It came with the manual, but it wasn’t very helpful. This was much more useful. You answered every question I had about the camera except one: what the heck is that little green switch on the lens next to the flash sync dial? Mine has it too. I can’t figure out its purpose!
Thank you!
I think it switches between flash type. Keep it on "X" since all the modern flashes use "X" sync.
Leaf shutter also means you can synchronize flash at faster shutter speeds. The synch plug is on the lens, not the camera body.
Correct, typically. In one of the cameras I'm researching for my next group of videos, it has a leaf shutter but can only sync the flash accurately up to a certain speed. In general, though, leaf shutters can sync at any speed.
thank you for that very in depth video.
Thank you!
Hi again, David...I went back a ways and saw your responses to similar questions, so I am all set. I will be curious to see how the results of the Retina compare to my Minolta v2. Thanks again
Thank you!
This is a gem
Thank you!
You're welcome. Truth be told, when I filmed the video, I didn't know what it does (so I skipped it.) Since then, I've learned that the green lever switches the flash sync from X to M (electronic flash to flash bulbs.)
Interesting. I sometimes use accessory selftimers with cameras that doesn't have one built-in, and one that fits the accessory shoe would be very practical. Better than one just hanging from the shutter release, swinging and can cause vibrations.
Some selftimers can be directly screwed in on the shutter release button, but I prefer to use a cable release extension cable for those, to minimize vibrations.
Great. I bought a Kodak Retina IIc but I haven't tried it yet.
If you only use the 50mm lens, I find this to be the about the best mechanical 35mm you can get. The only problem is that the viewfinder tends to darken and turn yellow. Along with this there is the Konica and the Voigtlander Vittessa.
Definitely! And old 50mm lenses performed very well.
A great buy even if the bellows has a tear, it is repairable.
Thank you!
it's a amazing camera, I also had two of IIIC with xenon50/2
Great lens, too! Those Xenon f/2 lenses still hold up to modern lenses.
That is doable, and I didn't know that was possible. I don't know how many people would venture such a repair. I've even taken many cameras apart to fix them, and I'd not venture that.
Wow, I think I just bought this camera from you, cool, thank you.
Yes, you did. Nice find! It's going to ship out tomorrow. I packed it well for you and you should be pretty happy I hope. I also found a lens hood (not the original, but it came with it and works) that I put in the package, too.
Camera is in great shape, thanks again.
Fantastic! I'm glad it arrived in good condition
Awesome and thorough review. Agreed... Kodak on camera's except these gems were crap. Their market was mostly entry level amateur photographers, the house wives and average joes. They do however still produce stunning color and Black and white Tmax film which is amazing. I love using film and have two brand of camera's, Couple of Rolleiflex's and 2 Leica M3's. The Retinas look amazing.
Thank you!
And yes, Kodak films are amazing. Tri-X 400 and Ektar are, I think, the best films they're making and in a list of my top five films, I think both would appear. The Portra series is magnificently engineered, too, and really shows what top-notch talent Kodak has.
I just inherited this Camera from my grandmother and I believe it is working. Only question I have is that I am not seeing the shutter leaf open or close, even when I move the aperture. Everything else is working. It does not have any film in it. Could the shutter leaf be stuck or does it have to have film to open and close? Any tips?
The leaf shutter should only open when the shutter fires. To check it, set the lens to a slow shutter speed and that will let you see if the shutter is firing. To check the aperture, it should be behind the shutter leaves and you can check that from the back of the camera with the film door open.
Rule of thumb on most lenses was that they would focus as close as 8 times the focal length. So 8 ×50 mm (2 inches )=400mm or 16 inches,that is without any close-up apparatus on or behind the lens.
I didn't know that, but it makes sense.
Nice video, David, feels a bit nostalgic today, but that's just cool. Mine is a european version, with a Rodenstock Heligon 2.0 lens, and a leather case. I intend to use it, the only issue is that I find changing the aperture is a bit tricky. Any tip on that? In general I find german Kodak cameras to be quite good. Most cameras, with some exceptions, of any interest, were made in Germany, Japan or the Soviet Union.
Thank you! Tricky how? Just stiff?
@@DavidHancock It's the lever that's tricky to operate, the aperture blades works smoothly. I think you said to push the lever backwards slightly? I seem to have some problem coping with that lock mecanism.
@@Analogbrain That sounds correct. Asterisk, I sold this camera years ago and am 60% through a 41-hour work day work four flights, so my brain is a hair foggy. I recall having to pick the level back towards the lens a bit, but too much and the level would fight back.
@@DavidHancock Thank's for the answer! I bought an entire collection of cameras some years ago from an elderly gentleman, and this was in it. Don't push yourself too hard man!
Thank you for great presentation.
Hi David -- outstanding reviews! Thank you. wonder if you could advise on the troubleshooting of this camera?
Thank you! I might be able to troubleshoot. What's your camera doing?
@@DavidHancock Hi David! Thank you for offering your advice. The issue is what about the camera is, actually, "not" doing. The shutter stopped working. All parts are working and "sounding" as usual, but the shutter does not "shoot".
Upload it to YT and send me the link. I'll check it out tomorrow after work and see if I notice anything.
When you load the film, are you doing it as shown at minutes 26 and 27?
Very helpful, thanks!
Thank you!
Another advantage of leaf shutters is the ability to sync a flash at just about any shutter speed!
Absolutely yes.
You're welcome.
I have one, love it
Nice! These are pretty fantastic cameras.
Hello again, David...just underneath the shutter speed dial and the 250 to 500 speed, there is a green lever. If I did not know better, I would say it looks like a countdown lever. I have the original manual and there is no mention of a timer. Do you have any idea of what it might be? Thank you! Doug
Thank you, Doug, and I do that's the flash sync lever for electronic (X) strobes and bulbs (M). Leave it on X as bulbs are generally impractical now and any flash you buy today will be an X flash.
Once again, thank you for the information and the great videos. Doug
Hi David- I recently came across a Retina IIa at a flea market, in good shape but the focus ring is LOOSE- it simply turns with no resistance and no movement/ travel of the lens. Do you know if this is a common problem and any resource for repair instructions for this issue? You're right about how beautiful this camera is, and I hate to just walk away from it. Thank you!
Nice! That does sound like it's broken. I have no idea how to fix it. Odds are something that connects the focus ring to the assembly is broken or mis-aligned. www.retinarescue.com may be of more help beyond that.
@@DavidHancock Thank you! It's only $25 but I hate having another broken camera collecting dust. I'll look into it
Loved your video, really helpful. Just found one of these in perfect shape with the case (no tears or sign of age). Bought it at a flee market for $32, what is it really worth?
Thank you!
It's probably worth about what you paid. I think that the one in this video sold for around $40.
Hi David...I always enjoy your videos. I just purchased one-can't wait to receive it! How do you set the ASA? Does 100/200 correspond to the 'daylight' setting? Thanks, Doug
Glad you saw the earlier replies, because I completely forget how to do it now. :D
Thank you
Thank you!
kodak had the sense to use Schnieder lenses instead of the popular. Zeiss lenses of the day.
Schnieder was a wise choice.
Only single coated on this camera so get a lens hood.
Even the cheaper Schnieder xenar and Reomars were excellent.
Schneider lenses are incredible. These old lenses still hold up today.
Thank you!
I acquired this camera from my mom and it was her father's before her. Sometimes the shutter gets stuck open. Do you know how to fix this? Thank you.
That probably needs a professional repair. It most likely means that the shutter has some thick lubricating grease.
@@DavidHancock Thank you!
I got one that says Compur-rapid, 50mm retina xenar. I have no idea what model it is, or where to find the model, can you help me identify it? thanks
I think its a type 013.
It's been a long time since I sold mine. I think there's a Retina Owners Fan Club that's still around. They used to have (and I assume still do) a good web page that should have resources.
Great video! It feels like my film advance lever is stuck. Any idea where I might be able to get it serviced?
Thank you! You probably can. There's a website called Retina Rescue and I'd also suggest seeing if Vermont Camera Works could repair it.
@@DavidHancock Thank you got your reply. The camera was my uncle's and he used it to teach me photography. It's worth fixing of it's possible
In a case like this, there is a small button right behind the shutter button that might release the advance lever. Try it. I had the same problem.
@@Astyanaz When I press the button it goes all the way down but nothing happens. The film advanced lever is still stuck. The shutter button is also stuck and will not depress
Nice video, I have one this like this. Mint condition. It’s been on my camera self for years, now I cant close the front. Any ideas?
Hmm. Make sure to set focus to infinity and then just press in the struts like the video shows. If that doesn't work, I'm not sure what's wrong.
Wow awesome..
That's definitely not how it's supposed to work, so there could be a couple possibilities:
1- Old cameras sometimes break in odd ways, so part of the mechanism might be worn.
2- The frame counter has to be manually reset when the film is loaded. I've often forgotten to do that.
Hello David!
I'm looking for a pocket camera with 50mm lens? Do you recommend it? :)
These were really good cameras for sure and definitely pocketable. If you can find one that's in shooting condition, as opposed to collector-grade, it would be a great carry-around camera.
Thanks for a great review. Do you know how to adjust the focus?. When i put it on infinity, Very far things are not in focus.
Well, that's a tough question. So it could either be the rangefinder or the lens which is out of focus. It could also be the rangefinder-to-lens connection. Either way, opening these is not easy and they're exceedingly complex. The best option is to send it for a CLA. The CLA will include focus recalibration.
David Hancock
I opened the top, cleaned the range finder. It seems to be working fine now. It was gummed up.
Fantastic! It's good to know that these aren't as impossible to repair as I've heard.
great review :D
Thank you for this video.
What does the little green switch do?
A bit late. But it's used for the flash
@@pctechadam1188 Thank you. Reminds me of a funny story
An Afghan, an Albanian, and Algerian, an American, an Andorran, an Angolan, an Antiguan, an Argintine, an Armenian, an Australian, an Austrian, an Azerbaijani, a Bahamian, a Bahraini, a Bangladeshi, a Barbadian, a Barbudans, a Batswanan, a Belarusian, a Belgian, a Belizean, a Beninese, a Bhutanese, a Bolivian, a Bosnian, a Brazilian, a Brit, a Bruneian, a Bulgarian, a Burkinabe, a Burmese, a Burundian, a Cambodian, a Cameroonian, a Canadian, a Cape Verdean, a Central African, a Chadian, a Chilean, a Chinese, a Colombian, a Comoran, a Congolese, a Costa Rican, a Croatian, a Cuban, a Cypriot, a Czech, a Dane, a Djibouti, a Dominican, a Dutchman, an East Timorese, an Ecuadorean, an Egyptian, an Emirian, an Equatorial Guinean, an Eritrean, an Estonian, an Ethiopian, a Fijian, a Filipino, a Finn, a Frenchman, a Gabonese, a Gambian, a Georgian, a German, a Ghanaian, a Greek, a Grenadian, a Guatemalan, a Guinea-Bissauan, a Guinean, a Guyanese, a Haitian, a Herzegovinian, a Honduran, a Hungarian, an I-Kiribati, an Icelander, an Indian, an Indonesian, an Iranian, an Iraqi, an Irishman, an Israeli, an Italian, an Ivorian, a Jamaican, a Japanese, a Jordanian, a Kazakhstani, a Kenyan, a Kittian and Nevisian, a Kuwaiti, a Kyrgyz, a Laotian, a Latvian, a Lebanese, a Liberian, a Libyan, a Liechtensteiner, a Lithuanian, a Luxembourger, a Macedonian, a Malagasy, a Malawian, a Malaysian, a Maldivan, a Malian, a Maltese, a Marshallese, a Mauritanian, a Mauritian, a Mexican, a Micronesian, a Moldovan, a Monacan, a Mongolian, a Moroccan, a Mosotho, a Motswana, a Mozambican, a Namibian, a Nauruan, a Nepalese, a New Zealander, a Nicaraguan, a Nigerian, a Nigerien, a North Korean, a Northern Irishman, a Norwegian, an Omani, a Pakistani, a Palauan, a Palestinian, a Panamanian, a Papua New Guinean, a Paraguayan, a Peruvian, a Pole, a Portuguese, a Qatari, a Romanian, a Russian, a Rwandan, a Saint Lucian, a Salvadoran, a Samoan, a San Marinese, a Sao Tomean, a Saudi, a Scottish, a Senegalese, a Serbian, a Seychellois, a Sierra Leonean, a Singaporean, a Slovakian, a Slovenian, a Solomon Islander, a Somali, a South African, a South Korean, a Spaniard, a Sri Lankan, a Sudanese, a Surinamer, a Swazi, a Swede, a Swiss, a Syrian, a Taiwanese, a Tajik, a Tanzanian, a Togolese, a Tongan, a Trinidadian or Tobagonian, a Tunisian, a Turkish, a Tuvaluan, a Ugandan, a Ukrainian, a Uruguayan, a Uzbekistani, a Venezuelan, a Vietnamese, a Welshman, a Yemenite, a Zambian and a Zimbabwean all go to a nightclub...
The doorman stops them and says “Sorry I can’t let you in without a Thai.”
Do those old film brands refer to the ISO?
ISO (the same as ASA on old cameras) is just a number indicating sensitivity. An Ilford 100 will have the same (basically) sensitivity to light as Kodak or Fuji 100.
David Hancock Right, I got that part. I was just wondering if the wheel on the left, with the old film brands, is referring to different ISO / ASA settings. Like - I have a Pentax from the same era, and that wheel is where the ASA setting wheel is. I assume that depending on how you set the ISO, the internal meter adjusts for that.
What film do I get for this camera. I am completely lost on what to buy for the film
+Gabe Noel Any 35mm film will work in this camera. You'll just need to adjust your camera settings based on light and film type.
What about the ISO/ASA do I have to set it anywhere?
Zak Ferris Nope. There's no light meter. This has a film type memo dial, but the films it used were rated using a different system than modern films. So you can use that to help remind you of what film is in your camera. I use masking tape with the film type and as-shot ISO written on it. I usually put that on the bottom or where my nose will brush against the camera. It works well.
hi, anyone know where can I get one fixed? I think it's that spring.
Are you in the US?
Yes.. I'm in the United States
Here's a thread over at Rangefinder Forum that recommends some options:
www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=51590
Chris Sherlock also has a fantastic reputation, though I've never personally used him.
retinarescue.com/
Ok thanks for the help
Great video. Thanks! I pulled mine out of the collection to play with during the presentation. I think that I'm going to take some shots with this. As to the various models of IIa, there are only two, the Type 150 made from 1939 to 1941, and this one. The Type 150 has a winding knob rather than the lever on the 016.
You might enjoy my collection at: www.web4homes.com/cameras/kodak-mid.htm I don't have all of my Retinas up there yet. See that you are in the SF area and get out on the Bay. Me too. Sail out of Berkeley, Best regards, Kevin
This is the one Retina that I have left (having sold my other.) It's a simply amazing camera and one of only a few rangefinders that I really like using.
I like your site and have actually visited it before when researching cameras. I have photos of many of my cameras on my Picasa space and if you'd like to link to them for your site, you're welcome to if you give me the image credit.
Living in the Bay Area is great (I'm out in Clayton.) When I worked in SOMA, it was a lot easier to get out around the water, but working now in Walnut Creek keeps me away from the bay much of the time. As a former kayaker who used to live on a lake, that's not always been easy for me.
David Hancock Hey Dave, have you played with a Retina IIIc? I just ordered this one from ebay: cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=191219219513&ssPageName=ADME:L:OU:US:1120 It seems to be very similar to the IIa 016 but with interchangeable lenses. Ironically, I picked up an old 35mm Retina lens a while back thinking it was for my newer Retina Reflex, but it looks like it is a 35mm for the earlier folders. I also ordered an older IIa model 150 just to have it in the collection. We are having a good year in real estate sales, so I'm expanding the company camera collection in new directions.
David Hancock Also, how do I get to your Picassa page, and let me know if you'd like to get out sailing. Best, Kevin
Kevin Murray Here's the link to my Picasa page.
plus.google.com/u/0/photos/102333270936007447976/albums
A sail would be great. I'm in the height of my work busy season, which goes until September 18, or so.
10 aperture blades. Woohoo
Oh yeah, so much smooth blurryness.
I think it's funny that you don't like brownie cameras. If the retina was the equivalent of 12 hundred dollars, the brownie was the equivalent of what, 35? Don't forget, Kodak put cameras in the hands of regular people, people who otherwise would never have access to a camera. The Brownie is the Model T of the camera world. The retina is a great camera, I have two, but the Brownie is an actual piece of history.
+Bandidos Yanquis I've come to like Brownies a bit more than I did when I made this video. I appreciate their simplicity, a lot, and even turned to the Brownie shutter design when I tried to make my own shutter a while back (I have a 300mm f/2.3 plano-convex lens I'd like to make into a fast LF portrait lens.) The Brownie was great for bringing photography into the main stream, the niche that cell phone cameras occupy today. Given how many Brownies still work today, they are incredible for their design simplicity.
Bandidos Yanquis Agreed! 99.986 percent of the public was not the market for the Retina. Comparing a Brownie with a Retina is like comparing A Chevy Spark with a Cadillac CTS-V. Yeah, they're both cars made by the same company, But for ENTIRELY different worlds. Or if keeping with the photography market, Compare a $180 Pentax Optio S1 and a $7000 Pentax 645z! And yes, the Brownie IS the photography equivalent to the Model T, great analogy!👍
Yes some of the camera snobs out there say that the general line of Kodak cameras were crap alright, however they sold Millions upon millions of them just in the United States. If you are an average person you had one or a member of your family had one don't lie.