Chinese laser cutter tutorial part 5
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- Опубликовано: 15 окт 2024
- Here are the links to all 6 parts of the initial training videos.
Introduction and look at machine • Chinese laser cutter ...
Laser theory and safety issues • Chinese laser cutter ...
Loading the software and quick look • Chinese laser cutter ...
Power-up and test • Chinese laser cutter ...
First programs • Chinese laser cutter ...
Nerdy test stuff and summary • Chinese laser cutter ...
Links to other useful videos
www.thunderlase...
www.thunderlase...
A novice user
• 50 Watt CO2 Laser engr...
• 50 Watt CO2 Laser engr...
• Ebay laser from China ...
Another user
• The eBay laser cutter!
• The eBay Laser Cutter:...
Material processing guide
www.synrad.com/...
Hanging the air assist pump off a rope isolates most of the vibrations and makes it WAY quieter. Also pin 5/6 on connector CN1 (assuming you have the same controller) are labeled +24v and WIND. these can activate a solid state relay to turn the air assist on/off automatically (controlled by "IF BLOWING" in RDWorks). The SSR won't turn on with just the pump connected because it's a an inductive load. I use a 3 tap extension cord and plugged an LED lamp in as well for some resistive load to help the SSR out. Two relatively simple improvements that are a nice quality of life boost.
I used to be a cad operator designing tooling that was cut on an industrial flatbed laser with a rotary section on too. When I first saw your nail "pins" idea it reminded me of how our flatbed laser was at work, neat idea.
Thanks for the series. The file name on the machine is DOS like 8.3 where the maximum number of letters for a file name is 8 and 3 for the extension (file type). That is why you see a ~1 and ~2 . So you need to stick with 8 letters for names to be properly seen on the machine.
+Waheed Alsayer
Hi Waheed
Yes. At this point I was very new to the machine but it all became clear after a little use.
Best regards
Russ
Thanks for these video's. It got me up and running on one exactly like yours that I bought for $250.
I have this laser and used it successfully until one day it stopped receiving info from the thumbdrive, it just says NO FILES when I try to read the U-Disk so I can cut what’s stored in the memory still but that’s it till I get this fixed. Please help me if you can, how do I fix this? Thank you in advance. 🙏🏼
I am becoming fan of your videos thank you for taking your time and sharing your experience with us. I have no experience laser cutting and Engraving and trying to purchase a machine I would like to ask for your advice do you think I should start with a low price 40 what $450 or jump to something like you have?
this is an excellent series. One suggestion to round it out a bit more would be to do something on first install of laser tube, and replacement processes. Outside of that, I find the entire tutorial superior to anything else on the net. Congratulations good sir.
Hi Philip
Have you seen ruclips.net/user/edit?o=U&video_id=zCTrRT1C_eY
Is this what you want?
Best wishes
Russ
For some reason, the link you provided goes to my own list of videos. I believe you may have inadvertently grabbed the URL from your own list of uploaded videos, rather than the one you intended.
Hi Philip
Try this
ruclips.net/video/zCTrRT1C_eY/видео.html
Shout out again if it's not what you want.
Best wishes
Russ
Russ- I too have the same laser and having some etching cutting issues. Can you guide me to your published papers? By what I’ve seen, I’m sure your mentoring on paper can help. I’d rather read at times than watch videos... or at least a combo. Cheers.
Hi
Your question is as specific as "Dear Russ I'm having trouble with my life. Can you help?" Is it cutting you are having trouble with, if so is it wood or acrylic? Is it engraving logos and text or are you specifically after photo engraving? These are all very big subjects.
Add your email address (and maybe the subject you need help with) to another comment. I get auto copied to my Gmail so I will delete your comment/email from public view and reply to you
Best wishes
Russ.
Russ you are an absolute angel I am having trouble getting the machine to read my files says invalid file. Can you do a video about that?
Hi
Several potential traps.
If you are downloading a file from your PC see ruclips.net/video/ybnT3lECAqs/видео.html
You must keep the filename 8 characters or less and make sure your PC is connected to the correct USB port. One is for PC input and the other is for USB memory stick input
If you are trying to save to a memory stick via the Save to Udisk button then your memory stick must be formatted FAT32
Does this help?
Best wishes
Russ
Nice videos. Have you found a setting to change the scan direction from bottom to top? When etching the debris moves in the airflow from bottom to top, so scanning from bottom to top will avoid redepositing in previously etched area.
Hi Paul
Go to Config System Settings and there you will find a 9 spot pattern. If your select any of the 3 bottom spots that will be where your head will start from and scan upwards.
Best wishes
Russ
Excellent videos, thank you!! Question: Did you make that pin table? I'd like one, any tips would be appreciated!
Hi
Take a look at ruclips.net/video/kMDRzBZTW9c/видео.html and I think all the answers are there
Thanks for the kind words
Best regards
Russ
I noticed that your point of origin is now on the top left. How did you move it from top right? Thank you and I love your videos!
Hi Gus
If you move on a bit and watch this video it may explain all. IF I have failed and it does not , then come back and ask questions about the bits I didn't explain too well.
Best wishes
Russ
Thanks for this video. You did a great job! After watching this videos I decided to buy one.
What kind of pressure regulator did you use? And what are it's ratings.
Currently it is hard to one, that is operating at such low rpressures.
How long does it take, until the water gets hot?
Hi
I used a normal air regulator but it's right at one end of it's adjustment. It's not really regulating pressure it's more of a flow regulator. So any cheap regulator will perform this function, for example
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Compressor-Relief-Regulating-Regulator-Valve-AR2000-Pressure-Gauge-Air-Control-/351047069388?hash=item51bc092ecc:g:CbIAAMXQ74JTSOPR
If you are using the aquarium pump provided then it is an oil-less air pump and you will not need a filter
The water temperature rise depends on several things The volume of your reservoir (at least 2 gallons of distilled water), the power of your laser and the the time you are using it for. Some tubes claim to run at 25C but most good tubes will run up to 40C.
Hope this helps
Best regards
Russ
I love to make projects with Arduino. I was thinking about making a micro controller controlled air pressure regulator. This part is possible task.
But I was wondering if it is possible, to include air pressure value into drawing (for any layer)and pas the value the laser cutters controller to the Arduino?
Is a project like that possible? Are the possible benefits worth it, compared to the time will need to develop it?
The air pressure is not a vital element for most work. If you block the flow from the little air pump it will max out at about 1psi. Once there is flow, the pressure drops to an even lower value. There is a small choking orifice as it passes through the to the nozzle via a connecting fitting. The air is now in the nozzle but the hole in the end of the nozzle is so big relative to the choking orifice that the pressure in the nozzle is almost zero.
I would not worry about controlling this pressure other than with a simple cheap pressure regulator which is effectively controlling the flow. for 99% of the time you will require full flow. I am not an electronics person but there is a more interesting Arduino project that I have been sent by an Australian correspondent. I will be publishing that in the next couple of weeks because I am currently on vacation and away from my editing kit.
Best regards
Russ
Hi Re Va,
We are manufacturer of Laser machine, if you have plan to buy it, will be glad received your inquiry.
Iris
iris@sinmic.com
whatsapp: +8613153158953
You sir, are a national treasure. Thank you for these videos. Do you take donations?
Hi Nick
Nice thought but no . I do all this for my own personal satisfaction and it's the fact that I have video editing as a hobby that allows me to share my pleasure with others. If it helps others then that is a great bonus. Knowledge is free and should be shared. When I started this journey 2 years ago there were no experts putting their hands up to help me so that made me even more determined to eat into their territory and expose the secrets that they were hiding.
Thanks for the kind words
Russ
@@SarbarMultimedia Possibly the best youtube reply ever.
@@DR87408
Hi
As time has gone on and I have learnt a lot mor I am rapidly becoming aware that the so called experts (especially the big machine companies) seem to stumble across good settings but do not understand why they work. Not my scene I must find out why and how something works . I am finding out by watching their demo videos just how much they don't know. Those videos were not there when I started and ina way I am glad because I may be influenced by their pretence at sharing facts, As you get a lot further into my learning journey which I have documented in the RDWorks Learning Lab series you will see me tussling with a sticky problem for weeks and months until I manage to shake the answer out of all the tests and observations I make. There are very few unanswered questions now and the latest in my series is almost the final unsolved and undocumented problem of how lenses work and what type,shape and focal length is best for cutting what materials . A huge project, but maybe the final frontier.
Thanks for the comment
Russ
Can you tell me how you got your file from the computer to the machine? I am trying to make my first cut. I plugged my laptop via USB cord to the machine and I'm not sure where to go from there. I do have the same file saved that you showed how to make in RD Works. Thank you!
Hi Claressa
First of all there are two USB plugs on your machine One is to connect your PC to the machine and the other is to plug a memory stick into the machine. They are not interchangeable One may be marked Data or PC and the other Udisk.
In RDWorks when you have a program finished press Save or Save As and this will save your drawing with all the parameters as a.rld file. You can always LOAD a .rld file back onto your screen and edit it. Before proceeding, put you material on the table, move the head over your material, set the focus distance and press the ORIGIN button on the machine. When you have a program on your screen you can do one of two things. You can press the START button on your screen and the program will be sent to temporary memory in your machine and auto run. This is what I would advise doing for most programs that you are only ever going to use once, A useful program is just a 25mm square with cutting power and speed. You will use this a lot to do small trial cuts to determine at what speed you can cut materials. For this type of test program in RDWorks press the DOWNLOAD button. You will be asked to give the file a name. This is a fairly old operating system and can only accept file names 8 characters long. Press the ok button and the file will be sent to permanent memory in your machine. Go to your machine keypad and press FILE. You will see a list of files that are stored in memory. Use the arrow keys to highlight the file you want to run and press ENTER, ENTER.. Move the head with the arrow keys to where you want to start and press the ORIGIN button. The head will always start and finish your program at this position until you select new origin point. Press the START button and your program will now run from the machine. Press START to run the same program again.
You can do basic editing of speed and power at the machine by pressing ENTER, ENTER. A parameter table will appear. Press the ZU button to scroll round the windows and the arrow keys to adjust the numbers (It's very clunky ). You only have one tube so ignore max/min power 2 they do nothing. At present always set Max and Min to the same value. It will be a long time before you need to understand why Max and Min. When you have finished your editing ,press ENTER, ENTER to finish.
Good luck with your new adventure into the world of Chinese lasers.
Best wishes
Russ
your videos are very helpful and I haven't made it past this one so Im not sure if you have covered how to change the zero point on the computer program to the top left corner instead of the top right. In part 3 your zero point was in the top left. I haven't been able to figure this out yet so I have to flip everything to engrave.
+Aaron Dunnam
Hi Aaron
You are nearly there but I'm afraid I may confuse you because the follow on series has been given a different title. The answer to your question will be found in the first one of this series
ruclips.net/video/fLSI-z-TdNQ/видео.html
But a more in depth explanation appears later on in the series because many people were getting confused ruclips.net/video/CWZvQXxbR_E/видео.html
Hope this helps
Russ
I don't know if it's me or not. The video was jittery so much I couldn't stand to watch it. I love all the videos I've seen so far.
I was a You Tube newbie when I started this series and although all the video was shot in HD, I was still experimenting with various rendering codecs in an attempt to get the fastest upload for a given quality output. No excuses, some of it could have been better. Thanks for your honesty.......it doesn't offend.
Best wishes
Russ
@@SarbarMultimedia Totally understand. I'm hooked on all your videos. I just bought mini K40 and have to set it up soon. I'd love to do videos. So that will be an adventure in itself. lol I'm using a diode laser to cut out wooden earrings right now. But I need more speed. lol Thanks again.
Hi, first thanks for this remarkable series of tutorials. With your tutorials help my machine is set up and works well when driven from the keypad on the machine. Second Help! I have RD cut files on the stick. when the stick is in the top port (usb interface) there is no light on stick and no files can be found. When the stick is in the second from top (usb socket) the stick light is on however when I go File -u disc-Enter-read u disc - Enter I get NO FILES. It seems that the rd files are not on the disc. The stick does contain other format files. Should I have used a new empty stick? What can I do to try and fault find? Can I try and run it from the lap top driving it from the RD works program. Any help gratefully received. Malc.
Hello! Did you find a solution to your problem? I am currently struggling with the same issue - would appreciate any help! Thanks a lot!
I noticed a problem and wondering if you see the same thing. After generating the dot pattern, did you noticed the head did not return to the home position? The more dots you generate, the greater the error in the home position. The shorter the dots, the greater the error in home position. I noticed this with dot times as great as 0.1s. I conclude the steppers are missing steps since if you hit reset, it goes back to the home position.
Hi John
Several questions. I could be misunderstanding your situation so forgive me if I'm off track. Lets just go through the logic of the losing steps theory.
There are two 0.0 positions on the machine. There is the machine absolute 0,0 set in the top left (or for some machines top right) by the inductive sensors, and then there is the program 0.0 (the green square in RDWorks) which is set to a position you decide by pressing the Origin button. It sounds like you have got the Origin set to absolute 00. Lets assume that to be the case.(by the way this will cause errors if you are engraving)
The steppers will only lose steps because of some resistance or they are being asked to accelerate too fast. They cannot gain steps only lose them. Lets assume you are losing a step at every dot. If you have a line 45 degrees away from absolute 0.0 with 100 dots on it, then by the time you get to the last dot you will have LOST 100 steps. Lets assume that the steppers have each been told to move 1000 steps to get to this last dot, in reality because of the LOST steps they are only 900 steps away from absolute zero (in both X and Y). When your program has completed its last dot, the steppers are commanded to move 1000 steps in X and Y back to the Origin point. OOPs. It will crash into the absolute 0,0 100 steps early and make a rather strange "cogging" noise.
Using this logic, losing steps isn't the answer. BUT you could be losing steps because of a unidirectional resistance in the bearing slides on the HOME journey. That's the only way that your observations make sense.
The head X axis is unlikely to be a problem as there is only one slideway/bearing. The Y axis has a beam and TWO bearings. If there is out of alignment between these bearings, I can imagine the possibility of frictional resistance.
Does the error build up in BOTH axes? or even to the same degree?
If you set your Origin away from the absolute 0,0 and run the same program several times. does your dot pattern overlay the second time or do you produce a further offset patten each time you run it?
I have not played with dotting, only accidentally, as apart from putting stitch holes in leather goods (not my scene) I can see no use of it for me.
Speak soon, I'm sure
Best regards
Russ
I just saw this video that your laser seems to except .rd files..... well, I guess I’ll have to wait a few more weeks And hope the maker of the controller gets back to me. I believe my controller has the same firmware as yours as they’re so similar
I am seller of the laser machine , do you need a supplier ?
Thanks for great series, can you explain how i can add plugin for blow pressure control? How its working?
Hi
Take a look at these videos
ruclips.net/video/m4Hh-8-9Tio/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/ZKC8Byc8y28/видео.html
Rather than buy the pieces from SMC as suggested, I passed the details to cloudraylaser.com who have made a very cost effective kit at a fraction of the price. The only thing you need to supply is wire.
See www.cloudraylaser.com/products/ultimate-air-assist-set
Make sure you scroll down the webpage because all the information you need for installation is there.
Best wishes
Russ
I purchased the 50 watt co2 laser engraver 3 months ago. It worked fine for 3 months then the laser stopped firing in middle of a job. I am getting voltage to the laser tube but it doesn't fire . I replaced the tube and i the same results. I did notice on the main board that 15 was lite up but I don't know what 15 light is for. I do not have ground in my home but it still worked for months. Can anyone tell if they think it could be a ground issue?
Hi Gary
The instant nature of the problem you describe is not typical of a tube failure. Your tube will start losing power as it starts to die. It will be over days or even weeks. What you describe is an electronic component failure within the power supply (usually). The fact that you have LED 15 on is good. That means your mains conditioning power supply is working and the controller has power. That means that your programs should run but with no laser power?
If the power supply is working then there will be a beam in your tube. If there is a beam but no power then that is a tube problem but if there is no beam than you have a power supply issue..
Your machine was provided with a grounding spike and wire to earth it separately. I presume you have that fitted.
If this was an Ebay machine, the chances are that you have a B grade HV power supply fitted. Within my copious correspondence, I have many reporting early power supply failures. Your original tube will have been B grade also BUT it depends where you purchased the new tube. If you bought that from ebay then that may well be a B grade also. The Chinese have found Ebay a great way to monetize their rejects. Is there a brand label on your new tube? (K H Laser or Xi laser for example)
Although ebay is a great place for some items, trubes and power supplies are a no,no. If you have a machine importer on your continent that you can trust, buy from them. (i'm still very unsure about Lightobject). The safest and cheapest place to buy is direct from China, however, when you add the courier charges and your local import/taxes, the end number is eye watering. I know because I have been on that route. After buying a replacement tube from ebay, (I got burnt a second time) I swallowed hard and bought a new 60 watt tube and power supply combo. That was 2 years ago and it's still performing like new today.
Best wishes
Russ
How did you get your control panel to be in English language, mine's in Chinese? Thank you
+Steve O's Video's
Hi Steve. No direct answer I'm afraid. Mine came set to English Two possible options to try. First, some keyboards have a Language key instead of a Frame key which allows you to chose English from a list. I guess this may not be your simple solution. Secondly, I'm sure you are in USA. Boss Laser import these Chinese machines and badge them up as their own. They charge 2 or 3 times more than buying direct from China but they offer a proper support service. (I bought mine direct from China, it was a risk I took). However, take a look at
www.bosslaser.com/laser-engraving/boss-ls-1620.html.
If this is your keyboard? Maybe you can beg some help from them. They may also have spares that will fit your machine. You may have to buy a replacement keyboard but that means you will then get help from them.
Sorry I cant be more helpful on this occasion.
+SarbarMultimedia Thank you very7 much for the info and for doing videos I've almost watched them all.
+Steve O's Video's
Hi Steve
You are some sort of hero to plug on with all that lot. As I clearly state, these are not training videos but rather a record of me learning to use the machine. Like me, they do move rather slow at times. However, I'm glad that you are watching them all because I definitely made some BIG mistakes with my early work , one example being the belief that 100% meant full power.
Thanks for your encouraging comments. There's definitely more techno stuff to come.
i am planning to buy one, deciding on a 60w or 100w.. planning to cut mdf and plywood? any advise. mdf abt 3mm
+hing
Yes 3mm mdf with my 50 watt machine (which actually outputs only 37watts) cuts fine. Here's a private video I did for someone to show cutting of 4mm ply.
ruclips.net/video/PMcX4Kg8ZMU/видео.html
3mm mdf produces sticky vile smelling fumes containing formaldehyde (so does plywood to a certain extent, it's the laminating glues)so make sure you install very efficient extraction. Do research on the chemicals released when burning mdf or plywood and you'll encounter articles like this
www.cancer.gov/about-cancer/causes-prevention/risk/substances/formaldehyde/formaldehyde-fact-sheet. It's not deadly as some plastics are but you should be very careful if you are going to be using it a lot.
There is also another showing that 37 watts will also cut 10mm ply but very slowly.
ruclips.net/video/dt5R04vJPMc/видео.html
This last video is a long way into another series of videos about learning to use the free software they supply. Yours may not be called RD Works but it will still probably be this same software
To get more power out of a laser tube the length has to increase. This in turn means it needs a bigger frame to house it and the bigger frame means you can house a bigger work table. A bigger .worktable means bigger drive motors and more substantial engineering to bridge the larger work area. The point I'm making here is that you cannot buy a small cheap 100watt machine, it's expensive and big because it's 100 watts. Consider your requirements carefully and size your machine accordingly.If this is a hobby machine or just a toe in the water to start a small business then these machines will get you started . The life of the tube will be in the region of 1000 to 2000 hours. At 4 or 5 hours a day 5 days a week that's about a year for your first tube, regardless of wattage. At 100 watts you are just into an area where you will be able (at a price) to purchase a long life tube (about 8000 hours) whereas no such animals exist for 50 or 60 watt machines. A 100 watt machine will also definitely require an expensive refrigerated chiller cooling system whereas at 50 or 60 watts air cooling in a large tank will be ok.
Hope this helps your decision
Russ
Can you tell me about what you are doing about eye protection? Do your normal glasses block the beams? Even if they did, I'd be nervous about catching a beam in the eye somehow from the side. I am not really experienced with these things, it is just what I have read which makes me want to be very careful.
+Sam Cornwell
Hi Sam
You need to understand the nature of the "laser beam" and just how dangerous it is (or isn't). I have done a much later video in my current RDWorks Learning Lab series which will explain all this and then you can make up your own mind...by all means ask questions if you have any remaining after watching this.
ruclips.net/video/kJe16YQlIM0/видео.html
Best regards
Russ
What settings do i use for 3mm acrylic. What power on the machine controller and setting on rd works
No one can tell you the settings because there are so many factors involved. The precision of your beam setting, the accuracy of your focus, the power that your tube is actually producing, the cleanliness of your mirrors and lense, the focal length of your lens, the efficiency of your air assist and the orientation of your lens.. If you have a socalled 50 watt Ebay machine, it will be aBgrade 40 watt tube that may be outputting 30 watts if you are lucky .You may be able to cut at 3 to 6mm/s with 65% per setting. Maybe is the key word because so many things could be off.
Best wishes
Russ
@@SarbarMultimedia
Hi Sar
Two questions i got the stylecnc 90 watts laser co2
It came with a small air pump is that the want you recommend or should i plug in the compressor and set a regulator?
The other question' my zero home on rdworks its good on absolute option but when i cordinate top left it marks 35inches like is my top right how can i combine top left to zero zero X and Y top left on rdworks and on the machine top left?
@@llesco693
Hi Miguel
As you move further into my learning journey you will find me discovering that that stupid little pump not so stupid after all. I have 2 machines and both are stillusing that little pump You do not need huge pressures and airflows, For engraving you need a big distance between nozzle and work and only a whisper of airflow through the nozzle to protect your lens. from smoke damage. However for cutting you need a very small gap between work and nozzle and a small orifice in the nozzle. Your cut is only about 0.2mm wide so you need EFFICIENT air flow into the cut and that is best achieved with low pressure and relatively low flow. Do not use your shop compressor and reservoir .... I have been there and failed.
On the origin question. Your machine always goes to the back left or back right corner to set the machine's 0,0. When you open RDWorks in the top left or right corner there will be twp blue arrows. They must be set to the same corner that your machine runs to at start up/reset You will be able to set this position in Config, System Settings
Best wishes
Russ
Thank you very much Russ. Ur videos helped alot. Cant believe all the personal time end effort you put in to this hobby. Thanks again blessings to you Russ
I told my boss ur helping out with my questions and he said will send you a gift. Our company is located in Las Vegas Nevada. Color Reflections Las Vegas. I operate a big cnc router multicam apex and the gravotech engraver and this new laser stylecnc if we can do anything for you count on it. Any prismatic carve or large format printing let me know. Happy to help you in any aspect you need.
Can i use it to engrave a thin metal? Like a zippo lighter or something?
Hi
ALL metals act like a mirror and reflect the CO2 invisible light. That can be very dangerous if YOU happen to be in the path of that reflection. So, in general you cannot ENGRAVE any metal with this type of laser. However, there are ways to MARK metals by painting them first with special coatings.. The coating absorbs the light energy turning it to heat, The surface of the metal and certain chemicals in the coating react together because of the heat and cause a chemical change in the surface of the metal. These special coatings are very expensive but for stainless steel there are alternative cheap chemicals that achieve similar results,
See
ruclips.net/video/b_06laAjMPc/видео.html
and
ruclips.net/video/BWo_au1TPL0/видео.html
Best wishes
Russ
@@SarbarMultimedia i actually didnt know a lot about what type of laser machine that i will use. Its a laser cutting machine at my university, and i just so happen to learn it now. Is there any type of this machine that didnt use CO2 as its main source? And if it didnt, can it engrave a metal? Thanks
@@parawiraparbaga5641
Hi You think of gemstones being a crystal structure but if you investigate a littlre you will find that ALL metals have a crystal structure as well. In very simple terms, if the gap between the atoms in the crystal structure is less than the wavelength of the light (10.6 microns for CO2 light) then the light cannot penetrate and is reflected. If the wavelenght is the same ot less than the atomic spacing then the light can penetrate and damage the material. For most materials this gap is more than 1 micron . That menas that the light from a fiber laser (1micron wavelength ) can be used to damage metal (engrave and cut).
Best wishes
Russ
@@SarbarMultimedia Thanks a lot for your information, best regards from me, hope you doin well for your future projects !!!
Hi Russ--is it possible to send a file directly from CorelDraw to this machine? Thanks. Aaron
Hi Aaron
The honest answer is I think so but I don't use CorelDraw so cannot say how it's done. When you install RDWorks there is an option to integrate it into various programs. Corel is one of those options. There is a very friendly and informative group of enthusiasts at
facebook.com/groups/900528680076062/
I'm sure many of them are doing exactly what you are asking about
Sorry can't be more helpful
Best wishes
Russ
If I were the queen, I would dub thee Sir Russell for your acts of service for all of us. I'm not the queen, or king either. But maybe we should call you that anyway. Thanks for these wonderful videos & your comments. Aaron
Sir, may i ask where you purchesed this laser from? can you provide me with the shop link?
Hi
There are several similar to this on ebay .uk
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/500-300MM-50W-CO2-LASER-ENGRAVING-ENGRAVER-MACHINE-CUTTER-WOOD-CUTTING-USB/253293418743?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140122125356%26meid%3Dd8ea14a22a0f4a56aa8af937f36199e2%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D5%26sd%3D382621948914%26itm%3D253293418743&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
Put the description into your ebay.
Be warned. At tis price it is good value for money BUT it will be fitted with a B grade tube and power supply .It will work but not very well. It will get you started but you will soon have to spend another £400 on a new A grade tube and power supply
Best wishes
Russ
And I am having trouble with my life!! Etching seems weak even on higher powers. Cutting needs much power- upwards of 75% For small thin wood products and acrylics. Photo to engrave is aggravating and cannot get the correct settings. I’m afraid I’m going to break this thing with all of the experimental numbers I’m pushing. Cheers Russ
I'm glad you have a great sense of humour. It's a definite requirement if you are trying to house train one of these little Chinese dragons.
As a general rule cutting requires everything that you can throw at your material and then you set the speed as fast as the cutting will allow. With engraving text and logos etc, it depends on how deep you want your engraving. Because this is scanning and will take a lot of time, you tend to set high speeds in the region of 300 to 400mm/s and then set your power to get the depth of cut you are seeking. This will generally be 50% or more. With photo engraving you are trying to get the smallest possible dot and that involves setting speeds of between 100 to 200mm/s (depends on the response capability of your HV power supply) and very low power , probably in the 10 to 20% region.
All this assumes that you have a well performing tube and from what you describe your tube sounds like an ill tempered teenager. Is your tube labelled K H Laser?. As I suggested earlier,we may have to try to resolve this by email.
Best wishes
Russ
My cut file is cutting on the same spot after i moved it on the rd works
I need help with the cutter and RD works. Do you have a direct contact email?
Hi Brandon
If you add your disguised email (jimdotjonesatyahoodotcom) to another comment I will write back to you and also delete your comment..
Best wishes
Russ
Thank you for all your info quick question i keep getting a error...no enough space...so it will not let me do anything
HiAngie
There ere several confusing and unclear messages. I presume this is appearing on your machine keypad? It usually means you have now got to the 99 files limit of the machine and need to delete some programs from the machine OR there is not enough space in machine memory to load a large file that you are trying to run or download. File management is a lesson I learnt the hard way. You rarely need to keep files in your machine so provided there is nothing valuable there you can press the FILE button and find OTHER. If you press enter another menu appears that will allow you to FORMAT DRASTICALLY. This will clear and reformat your memory to pristine condition. If there are files in memory that you do not want to lose then when you press the FILE button there is a COPY TO UDISK option where you will be able to copy files one at a time onto a memory stick I'm afraid there is no multiple copy or erase, this is a VERY basic system.
I'm pretty sure that the message is to do with the files and not with the work space. Those error message contain words like SLOP, and EXTENDED SPACE.
Best wishes
Russ
Hi,russ thanks for your viedo of this laser machine,it's really helpful. Best wishes Linda luan
AAAAAAh... THAT'S what the empty circular hole above my power switches was for! So your model has a synchronous AC motor with a gearbox for Up/Down. The microswitch would then be Normally Closed and installed in the neutral line of the motor to cut power when you bottom out. That's A SOLUTION, but i want to automate mine for continuous auto-focus (so i can engrave on irregular objects) so i would need a stepper driver and a stepper motor. I plan to resolve focal depth using a wiimote (has an IR camera in it) to spot the height of the iridescence of burning material. If the IR dot deviates up in the camera, then i am too close to the laser and if it deviates down i am to far away from the laser. Once the laser starts a job the program is in it's memory and i can't just start injecting z-axis up and down commands into the program so this image data would have to be processed by a separate computer (a Pi 3 could likely handle the task.) I'm not sure how good a Pi would be at generating steps for the driver, so the Pi would likely need to be telling an arduino what to do and the arduino would tell the stepper driver.
I'm at a bit of a loss as to how to mechanically connect the Wiimote. If i place it at a stationary position attached to the bed then it might loose sight of the IR all together as the laser digs into material, and also field of view would likely be an issue. If i attach it to the head of the laser I will loose considerable work area in whatever direction the controller is sticking out in. Still I believe the later would likely be my best option all things considered as it would be consistent at any position the laser is in and simply involves creating a 3d printed bracket and running an additional cable through the drag chain.
Hi
I have a second machine that has autofocus on it, as you will discover as you follow my journey. The table on that machine is stepper driven but it only sets a fixed focus point and to be honest is very slow and clunky. I have stripped it off and set focus 10 times quicker manually. If you want surface detection and following for uneven surfaces that there is no simple way. Ruida do make a system called Live Focus but it is stupidly expensive and I do not know just how sensitive and responsive it is. see ruclips.net/video/nBmeqCOW5P8/видео.html
Best wishes
Russ.
Hi,
I recently purchased one of these machine. The small screen on the machine is in Chinese. Do you know how to change this to English?
Hi Eoin
Take a look at this
ruclips.net/video/UF37pbL2hpw/видео.html
Best wishes
Russ
Hi, Yes, I got it sorted. Do you have one of these engravers?
Hi Eoin
Yes I have an upgraded ebay Chinese laser (70 watts) and also a much better quality Chines built laser (60 watts) supplied by a UK company called Thinklaser.
Best regards
Russ
I cannot connect the computer to machine, or I cannot get the laser head to move from the controls on the machine. Any suggestions?
Hi Eoin
With the machine turned off, move the head to the middle of the table. Now power up the machine (you can have the laser tube tuned off). What happens at this point?
Best regards
Russ
Good night Sarbar! Can you simulate the cut? as if the head passed where it will cut but without firing the laser, thank you.
Hi Marlon
There are 3 ways of doing this.
1) Choose the preview screen in RDWorks and run a software simulation of your program.
2) Set your max and min power to 1% and run your program. The laser will not fire at this low value.
3) If your machine is fitted with a laser switch, then you can just turn that off.
Best wishes
Russ
thank you!
If you could would someone one be able to tell me how I can fix my laser after I reset the parameters and now it’s stuck on 300x380
Hi Ashley
Your prolem description is a bit ambiguous but I think you have a table witha work area bigger than 300x380mand you want to reset to the correct sizes.
If you are using RDWorks then go to File, Vendor Settings and use the password RD8888. . You now must press the READ button to display the settings held in your machine. Go to the X and Y axes in turn where you will see a BREADTH window .Set these to the values of your work area and then press the WRITE button to send these new values back to your machine.
If this is not your problem then a more precise description will help.
Best wishes
Russ
@@SarbarMultimedia as I saw someone explain on a prior video. Their laser head would get stuck and make a very loud noise to correct the issue they reset the parameters on the controller which corrected that issue. My issue is now that my controller reset my laser bed to now it only ready x axis 300 mm y axis 380 mm when in reality I have it set on light burn at 600mm x400mm. I do not have RD works and each time I’ve tried to download it I get error messages. Would rd works be able to control it even though it won’t using light burn ?
@@SarbarMultimedia when I did the reset I didn’t deadline the default from the manufacture would be incorrect.
@@ashleyorosco9916
Hi Ashley
You now have your table set to the correct 600x400 dimensions. Do this simple test. Press your X and Y arrow buttons until the head stops. Now look at the display screen. I think you will see it says 600mmx400mm even though your head has not travelled that far. This means you need to recalibrate your X and Y axis, to teach them what REAL dimensions are. Go to Lightburn machine settings and you will find a button that says CALIBRATE AXIS Draw a 100mm square, burn it at high speed (say 50% at 200mm/s). The calibration will ask for drawn and burnt dimensions. This will fix your calibration.
Best wishes
Russ
@@SarbarMultimedia I tried but it shrinks my design down to fit into the size of the area 300x380 my controller itself (on the laser) needs to be override. I’m not sure how to do it it’s as if the default settings were never programmed and when it default it didn’t default to the correct settings. I need the original software and be able to program it to the laser
how did you get your screen in English. mines in Chinese.
Take a look at this
ruclips.net/video/UF37pbL2hpw/видео.html
Best regards
Russ
thanks, I will try it when I get home. I just set it up this morning and wanted to watch some videos on using the software. your videos were amazing. I'm sure a will review all of them again.
worked perfectly. thanks. also mine didn't come with RDWorks. so I found a site to down load it if anybody else wants it. en.rd-acs.com/down.aspx
Best Video ever
what happens if i hit a nail point?
Do you also lay awake worrying about how you are going to spend your lottery winnings?. Joking aside, the chances are low but if the beam (through the very thin slot) does coincide with a nail point, it will reflect off like a mirror and that energy may be be enough to cause a small scorch mark on the bottom of your job. Pity all those folks with honeycomb tables ...nightmare!!
Best wishes
Russ
now suppose that's chinease for yuh, hahahaha. thanks for the intro sir.
I will not recommend this laser to anyone first the keyboard is not enough information when you talk about cnc it means that the keyboard is start from A to Z and the company they do not have customer service to ask to talked if you need help about this machine
I agree that this is not a fully functioning CNC keypad but it is just one of several ways to communicate with very powerful digital controller does a great job of controlling the laser, The compromise is that you do the programming on your PC (which has got a full keyboard) and send /run the machine code file to the machine. Used in this way the only keys you need are the 4 arrow keys and the ORIGIN button. The clunky keypad is only used to make last minute changes to speed and power There is an alternative version (RDC6445) that has a numeric keypad for easy input of data. There are many PC functions that are also accessible via the keypad. Despite the weakness, this controller has now become the industry standard for laser machines big and small.
Best wishes
Russ
Please tell in hindi langwage
Hi Shyam
At the bottom of the youtube screen select the CC SETTINGS icon
Then select the SETTINGS icon
Click on Subtitles is says English (auto generated)
Tick Auto translate and then choose Hindi from the list
The translation may not be perfect but it will make life easier for you.
Best wishes
Russ
sar Hindi me btaeye