Actually, every modern scuba regulator uses the ambient pressure of the water around them, so the intermediate pressure will be 8-10bar plus the ambient pressure. Unbalanced ones are affected by the drop of tank pressure, or the ambient pressure, so the IP can drop slightly. Over balanced will increase the IP as the diver goes deeper, so the second stage can deliver more gas.
Thanks for loads of information. I agree on the side exhaust: I used to donate by just pointing at my octo and let the other diver grab it himself until one day someone (who was little stressed) put it in his mouth upside down. Luckily, it was just just a drill in a rescue course.
I loved this Mark, as a DMT I’m learning more and more about the diving side of things, but both on here and the Simply page, I’ve learnt more about the equipment side of diving which is just as important, if a student asks me things about their regulators or anything I’ve got a better knowledge of equipment and I could answer them. Thankyou! Keep up the amazing videos!
See if your dive centre will put you on a service technicians course, you'll learn how to diagnose and fix a lot of problems with a better understanding on what the insides of valves are doing.
Thanks for this Mark. Actually recently ordered my first regulator from my local shop, went with core supreme and abs octo from aqualung and added analogue gauges.
Mark, the spelling should be 'heat "sink"'. A heat sink is used to disperse a certain temperature into the surrounding area of a different temperature. If you didn't have heat sinks to disperse the heat around the chips in your computer, the chip would overheat and the computer would shut down. The inverse applies to regulators where you are trying to disperse the cold inside the regulator (caused by pressure difference) into the warmer surrounding water (even though that water might be only 1 degree C. That action keeps the regulator from freezing.
Another useful and informative video, thanks! I’m wondering if you do a demo/in depth video of how you clean your regulators after each dive and before putting away for a while?
Yeah, I've got that coming up, but it will be on the Scuba Diver Magazine channel. Key points are: Wash them while they're pressurized (if possible), Check for salt or verdigris buildup everywhere, Dry thoroughly, Try to relieve pressure on the seat while storing, Store in a cool, dry, dark place with hoses as straight as possible.
Thanks for your imformation, Cold water is defined under 50 degrees or what degree ? and do I need a drysuit or can I wear 2.5mm. underlayer with 7mm wetsuit ? First time in chilly water on cold day , Should I beaware of any special warning sign's, other than shivers. Please send remarks; Thankz
Mark, what metal bodied 2nd stage’s would you recommend? Also, what quality 1st stages with head port, and also swivels would you recommend for twin sets?
Scubapro A700 is a nice 2nd stage but it's quite bling for my liking. Mares Abyss is a lovely 2nd stage but they aren't making any new ones... The Poseidon Cyklon is also great, but they're super expensive for what they are... Apeks DST is my favorite 1st stage. If the Scubapro Mk25 EVO had a more comprehensive environmental seal it would be better but it's still a great 1st stage. And the Apeks MTX 1st stage is also top-notch.
Which ones? The RK3's on the right, or the Zoom Z3 on the left? The RK3's come with me everywhere, they're tough and have great thrust. The Z3's are fine, I don't use them anymore but they have sentimental value
hi Mark, great content as usual. why do hollis regs get so much abuse from the diving community. I'm interested in the hollis 200lx with dcx first stage. would love to know what are your thoughts. keep up the great videos!
The company was bought by Huish a few years back which ruffled some feathers. It was hard to find spare parts for them and get them serviced for a while (other reasons...) So just double check that your LDS can service them and get the parts. They're a fine brand, not the best, but far from the worst.
Used to watch you on simple suba and now found you here, so I've been doing somre catching up. Complete fed up of that background noise - get rid of it.
Actually, every modern scuba regulator uses the ambient pressure of the water around them, so the intermediate pressure will be 8-10bar plus the ambient pressure. Unbalanced ones are affected by the drop of tank pressure, or the ambient pressure, so the IP can drop slightly. Over balanced will increase the IP as the diver goes deeper, so the second stage can deliver more gas.
Thanks for loads of information. I agree on the side exhaust: I used to donate by just pointing at my octo and let the other diver grab it himself until one day someone (who was little stressed) put it in his mouth upside down. Luckily, it was just just a drill in a rescue course.
I loved this Mark, as a DMT I’m learning more and more about the diving side of things, but both on here and the Simply page, I’ve learnt more about the equipment side of diving which is just as important, if a student asks me things about their regulators or anything I’ve got a better knowledge of equipment and I could answer them. Thankyou! Keep up the amazing videos!
See if your dive centre will put you on a service technicians course, you'll learn how to diagnose and fix a lot of problems with a better understanding on what the insides of valves are doing.
Thanks for this Mark. Actually recently ordered my first regulator from my local shop, went with core supreme and abs octo from aqualung and added analogue gauges.
Great , straight forward explanation very helpful thanks. It looks like your quarantine diet is going well, congratulations!
Great tips. Thanks for sharing Mark!
This was great and informative. Thanks so much!
Thanks for the videos, nearly through them all 🤙 suggestion for a video, how do you clean your regs?
Mark, the spelling should be 'heat "sink"'. A heat sink is used to disperse a certain temperature into the surrounding area of a different temperature. If you didn't have heat sinks to disperse the heat around the chips in your computer, the chip would overheat and the computer would shut down. The inverse applies to regulators where you are trying to disperse the cold inside the regulator (caused by pressure difference) into the warmer surrounding water (even though that water might be only 1 degree C. That action keeps the regulator from freezing.
Exactly. Heat sink, not heat synch.
Another useful and informative video, thanks! I’m wondering if you do a demo/in depth video of how you clean your regulators after each dive and before putting away for a while?
Yeah, I've got that coming up, but it will be on the Scuba Diver Magazine channel. Key points are:
Wash them while they're pressurized (if possible),
Check for salt or verdigris buildup everywhere,
Dry thoroughly,
Try to relieve pressure on the seat while storing,
Store in a cool, dry, dark place with hoses as straight as possible.
Have been watching your videos on the scuba diver mag channel too - will keep a look out!
What is your view about 2nd stages with pilot pneumatic valves. I believe the legend series have these
Mark, I noticed that you have your transmitter is connected to a hose than to the first stage. Would you please tell me more about THAT HOSE.
It's just a short 6" high pressure hose to stop the transmitter from being bashed.
You'll need a swivel pin between the hose and transmitter.
Thanks! Really learning a lot from your shows.
One more thing, are your “SafeDiving” shirts for sale? I like the logo.
Thanks for your imformation, Cold water is defined under 50 degrees or what degree ? and do I need a drysuit or can I wear 2.5mm. underlayer with 7mm wetsuit ? First time in chilly water on cold day , Should I beaware of any special warning sign's, other than shivers. Please send remarks; Thankz
What would make a balanced 2nd stage harder to breath while laying on your back underwater?
Lungs are below the Reg. That means higher pressure on lungs than on Reg meaning it's harder to breathe
What are your feelings in regards to the Apeks MTX-RC reg?
Do you dive cold water often? Iirc he recommended a xtx50 because it's lighter and more than good enough for most diving.
Small remark, it's heat sink not heat sync.
Mark, what metal bodied 2nd stage’s would you recommend? Also, what quality 1st stages with head port, and also swivels would you recommend for twin sets?
Scubapro A700 is a nice 2nd stage but it's quite bling for my liking. Mares Abyss is a lovely 2nd stage but they aren't making any new ones... The Poseidon Cyklon is also great, but they're super expensive for what they are...
Apeks DST is my favorite 1st stage. If the Scubapro Mk25 EVO had a more comprehensive environmental seal it would be better but it's still a great 1st stage. And the Apeks MTX 1st stage is also top-notch.
nice pair of fins behind you. What is your opinion about then? :)
Which ones? The RK3's on the right, or the Zoom Z3 on the left? The RK3's come with me everywhere, they're tough and have great thrust. The Z3's are fine, I don't use them anymore but they have sentimental value
hi Mark, great content as usual. why do hollis regs get so much abuse from the diving community. I'm interested in the hollis 200lx with dcx first stage. would love to know what are your thoughts.
keep up the great videos!
The company was bought by Huish a few years back which ruffled some feathers.
It was hard to find spare parts for them and get them serviced for a while (other reasons...) So just double check that your LDS can service them and get the parts.
They're a fine brand, not the best, but far from the worst.
lol this guy runs every scuba channel?
Used to watch you on simple suba and now found you here, so I've been doing somre catching up. Complete fed up of that background noise - get rid of it.