Looks awesome. I’m a pool technician in Melbourne Australia. And I’ve got a job coming up where the pools only return was from 2 waterfalls above the pool from the pond (which had since been decommissioned) My question is. How would you do this to a pool that is tiled? Just be very careful not to drop any on the tile surface? First time I’m installing return pipes so trying to work out all I can before I start! Thanks for your time! Ryan
Hi Ryan, thanks for the comment. My first thought would be, if the returns are still "sound/good" in the pool, can you simply splice into the existing lines outside of the pool and re-plumb back to the new pump or equipment pad? If the returns in the pool are compromised and you need to replace the pipe through the wall, would seem you should probably expect to create some damage to the surrounding tile.. If the pipes are able to be driven out such as mine were, then you are going to be in good shape and I would probably "mask" off the area with tape/plastic to avoid getting any mess from the cement on the tile. IF, you're not able to drive the pipes out, then you are probably looking at core-drilling or a much more intrusive fix. Let me know if this helps, would be great if others may have thoughts on this to share too!
@@SeldomRest hey mate! So there literally were no return pipes exisiting. The water all only returned to the pool flowing down from a pond which it was pushed up there by a seperate pump from the filter pump! Super weird. But yeh I core drilled some new holes and used some waterproofing epoxy and it came Up great! Appreciate the response bud! Ryan
Very impressive! You know better than those plastering company. I’m thinking remodeling my pool as well. Do you mind sharing how much will it cost? Are you going to put tiles in?
Thanks for the comment! I guess the short answers is, that it costs a lot :) From my research and experience remodeling our pool the range of money you can spend on it could easily fall anywhere from $10k up to $50k or even more depending on what you are doing. We had Travertine Stone coping, Glass Tile and a Pebble Brilliance plaster finish applied to our pool and spent about $26k on just those materials and labor. I also contracted directly with a plaster company that specializes in pools in my area and were known to be a premium/quality operation. I suspect if I had utilized a pool builder to coordinate and run the project I would have been spending even more. On my own, I replaced our skimmers, returns and plumbing, pool light, equipment and pool deck. So that just cost the material and lots of my time/labor. Our pool size is around 25k gallons. I also found a lot of great ideas, help and resources for free at a website and forum called Trouble Free Pools. Hope this helps, let me know if you have other questions!
Hey there, thanks for the comment. If your talking about the "extension fitting" from around 3:30 in the video, I got that at a local pool supply company in St. Louis called "R&S Pool & Spa". If you're looking for the actual return fittings, I just ordered those on Amazon, Link below if it works: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXPUL93/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I just friction fit those in, did not glue them in place at all, so when I winterize I just pull them out with a pair of channel locks and am able to insert my rubber plug in the smooth return pipe. Works great for me.
The foam they use so the concrete does not crush it in the curing process. And then the plaster company will water plug the front for a water tight seal
Concrete will not crush a PVC pipe. For new construction, there's a lot of settling that happens. The foam allows some movement between the concrete. However, I think the overdid it here. It shouldn't really be that heavily applied and up to the pool surface. It should be held back more.
In lieu of the polyurethane sealant why not enlarge the hole by coring a hole larger and then use link seals to seal and secure the pipe to the gunnite. The link seals are made from rubber and stainless steel bolts to compress the rubber. After bolting and sealing the area around the pipe follow up with hydraulic cement to further protect the degradation of the bolts from salt if they have a salt water pool.
Waterproof is a good call for sure. The crew that installed my waterline tile applied waterproofing around each of the returns and other repairs I made while they were prepping for the tile work. Thanks for the comment.
I'm not following. Why does adding a downturn elbow (*which impedes waterflow) and has to come straight back to your existing line do anything for sheer resistance. The pipe coming out of the elbow would still be going back, and still be subject to soil movement as I see it. Unless you are talking about frostline depth concerns, I see only disadvantages. Enlighten me someone?
I agree with your logic actually and have not had any issues with installation at all yet. From my research/prep to tackle this one, I found multiple sources that supported the elbow, but certainly not an expert. Thanks for comment, will be interested to hear thoughts from others on this one as well.
@@seephor I don't see it as twisting force at all. I do see it as a lever force, though, as opposed to pure shear force. But we all know the amplifier effect of a lever. So I still do not see value in adding an elbow and going down, to another elbow going out (back away from wall) as having advantages outweighing the drawback. Arguably if the assumption is, by going deeper, then you *may* be subject to less soil movement on the soil that is deeper. In particular if you were just above Frostline and went down and back to get below Frostline. But I'm in TX where we really don't worry about such things.
@@jamesbsa6450 What I meant is to elbow to the side, not down. If you elbow to the side, you have given the pipe some room to move down without breaking because the downward force on the lateral turns into a twisting force through the pool wall.
Развлечения
Those holes look great!
Great video!
Thank ya sir!
Looks awesome.
I’m a pool technician in Melbourne Australia.
And I’ve got a job coming up where the pools only return was from 2 waterfalls above the pool from the pond (which had since been decommissioned)
My question is.
How would you do this to a pool that is tiled?
Just be very careful not to drop any on the tile surface?
First time I’m installing return pipes so trying to work out all I can before I start!
Thanks for your time!
Ryan
Hi Ryan, thanks for the comment. My first thought would be, if the returns are still "sound/good" in the pool, can you simply splice into the existing lines outside of the pool and re-plumb back to the new pump or equipment pad? If the returns in the pool are compromised and you need to replace the pipe through the wall, would seem you should probably expect to create some damage to the surrounding tile.. If the pipes are able to be driven out such as mine were, then you are going to be in good shape and I would probably "mask" off the area with tape/plastic to avoid getting any mess from the cement on the tile. IF, you're not able to drive the pipes out, then you are probably looking at core-drilling or a much more intrusive fix. Let me know if this helps, would be great if others may have thoughts on this to share too!
@@SeldomRest hey mate!
So there literally were no return pipes exisiting.
The water all only returned to the pool flowing down from a pond which it was pushed up there by a seperate pump from the filter pump!
Super weird.
But yeh I core drilled some new holes and used some waterproofing epoxy and it came
Up great!
Appreciate the response bud!
Ryan
Very impressive! You know better than those plastering company. I’m thinking remodeling my pool as well. Do you mind sharing how much will it cost? Are you going to put tiles in?
Thanks for the comment! I guess the short answers is, that it costs a lot :) From my research and experience remodeling our pool the range of money you can spend on it could easily fall anywhere from $10k up to $50k or even more depending on what you are doing. We had Travertine Stone coping, Glass Tile and a Pebble Brilliance plaster finish applied to our pool and spent about $26k on just those materials and labor. I also contracted directly with a plaster company that specializes in pools in my area and were known to be a premium/quality operation. I suspect if I had utilized a pool builder to coordinate and run the project I would have been spending even more. On my own, I replaced our skimmers, returns and plumbing, pool light, equipment and pool deck. So that just cost the material and lots of my time/labor. Our pool size is around 25k gallons. I also found a lot of great ideas, help and resources for free at a website and forum called Trouble Free Pools. Hope this helps, let me know if you have other questions!
Great video could i ask where u got the slip return fittings for 1.5 inch pipe?
Hey there, thanks for the comment. If your talking about the "extension fitting" from around 3:30 in the video, I got that at a local pool supply company in St. Louis called "R&S Pool & Spa". If you're looking for the actual return fittings, I just ordered those on Amazon, Link below if it works:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXPUL93/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I just friction fit those in, did not glue them in place at all, so when I winterize I just pull them out with a pair of channel locks and am able to insert my rubber plug in the smooth return pipe. Works great for me.
The foam they use so the concrete does not crush it in the curing process. And then the plaster company will water plug the front for a water tight seal
Thanks for the feedback, makes sense.
Concrete will not crush a PVC pipe. For new construction, there's a lot of settling that happens. The foam allows some movement between the concrete. However, I think the overdid it here. It shouldn't really be that heavily applied and up to the pool surface. It should be held back more.
Why stay with 1.5” returns instead of upgrading to 2” and cut a little larger hole in this stage of reno?
In lieu of the polyurethane sealant why not enlarge the hole by coring a hole larger and then use link seals to seal and secure the pipe to the gunnite. The link seals are made from rubber and stainless steel bolts to compress the rubber. After bolting and sealing the area around the pipe follow up with hydraulic cement to further protect the degradation of the bolts from salt if they have a salt water pool.
Very nice video, I think your idea was better: cut the pipe last, after the plastering!
Appreciate the comment! We've got a full season on it now with no issues, it turned out good!
So did the jets stay in or shoot off??
Yep, they stay in no problem, I’m happy with the decision, been probably three seasons so far and all good
How to put cement around a pvc pipe would have been a better name for this.
What about waterproof?
Waterproof is a good call for sure. The crew that installed my waterline tile applied waterproofing around each of the returns and other repairs I made while they were prepping for the tile work. Thanks for the comment.
I'm not following. Why does adding a downturn elbow (*which impedes waterflow) and has to come straight back to your existing line do anything for sheer resistance. The pipe coming out of the elbow would still be going back, and still be subject to soil movement as I see it. Unless you are talking about frostline depth concerns, I see only disadvantages. Enlighten me someone?
I agree with your logic actually and have not had any issues with installation at all yet. From my research/prep to tackle this one, I found multiple sources that supported the elbow, but certainly not an expert. Thanks for comment, will be interested to hear thoughts from others on this one as well.
My guess is if you install the elbow horizontally, any downward movement of soil would exert a twisting force on the pipe rather than a sheer force.
@@seephor I don't see it as twisting force at all. I do see it as a lever force, though, as opposed to pure shear force. But we all know the amplifier effect of a lever. So I still do not see value in adding an elbow and going down, to another elbow going out (back away from wall) as having advantages outweighing the drawback. Arguably if the assumption is, by going deeper, then you *may* be subject to less soil movement on the soil that is deeper. In particular if you were just above Frostline and went down and back to get below Frostline. But I'm in TX where we really don't worry about such things.
@@jamesbsa6450 What I meant is to elbow to the side, not down. If you elbow to the side, you have given the pipe some room to move down without breaking because the downward force on the lateral turns into a twisting force through the pool wall.