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Nice work.

Please don't test with air up to 30 psi! At 30 PSI air has compressed down to about 50% of the original volume. If your pipe were to fracture for some reason (bad pipe, crack, etc...) it would basically go off like a bomb potentially sending shrapnel everywhere. This is extremely dangerous. This is also why rubber air lines are reinforced with fibers to prevent liberation. 10 psi of air is plenty. You can find leaks by spraying the lines and joints with soapy water. 30 psi is okay for water, but not for air. Also your pool pump probably never puts out even 20 psi so if it isn't leaking with water at 20 psi that's probably all you need.

Top of the line, thanks for your video and information very helpfull

The issues with these type of cracks is to know why it’s happening? is it just normal concrete weight settling or the ground underneath keeps losing soil due nature or earthquakes? I don’t believe such solution would help much in every scenario! so like in the video you need to know and do a good research before making any decisions to repair. these metal staples won’t hold tons of concrete if it keeps settling just saying! but if the crack is old means you’re lucky because the ground settled and the concrete took it’s final settling/setting/rest as well!

After you’re done I think you could use your skimmer as an anchor point to rip your entire pool out of the ground. Good luck to you next time you have to replace your skimmer…

why didnt u use the hydraulic cement around/inside the whole return pipe

When concrete is poured over the top of the skimmer box, it causes it to sag and you'll get weir doors that stick because they're trying to flap in and out of a box that is no longer square because of the weight of the concrete.

Very nice video! Thank you

63k people saw you in them shorts and them boots... I likes your short boots...

The union is a clever way of connecting this. I have unions on my pool as well but I never would have thought of that. Well done.

The foam they use so the concrete does not crush it in the curing process. And then the plaster company will water plug the front for a water tight seal

The foam they use so the concrete does not crush it in the curing process. And then the plaster company will water plug the front for a water tight seal

That manifold looks great, good thing you added the tie down, no one like a run away manifold

Did you have any issues using PVC glue with this channel drain? The material is Polypropylene and NDS suggests avoiding pvc glue and instead use silicone. It doesn’t seem like silicone is a strong enough bond so I’m looking for other options and curious if the PVC glue worked well.

This was a well explained video. I really appreciate the detail put into it

Hey how well did the drain stay in place without concrete?

How did you cap off other end skimmer and returns?

Thanks for an excellent educational video. I learned a lot.

Excellent video. However, I believe it was totally unnecessary to do the repair project as it was done. Because in this case, you were lucky enough to be one of those rare? pool owners who had no poured concrete deck, and easy access to the outside wall of the pool. Your crack was only about 3 ft in length from the bond beam. This means that you could have excavated the soil OUTSIDE the pool, and set either the 'Torque Lok' bars, common (inexpensive) flat steel bars, or even rebar staples across the crack to hold the structure together, with no need to place and recess the bars into the inside wall. Bars installed on the outside pool wall should hold structure together just as well as those placed on the inside, and there is no need to do the rectangular recess cutting, chipping, and subsequent cosmetic work to hide the bars. I would however, use a masonry grinder to simply open up the interior crack so it is deeper and wider and shaped to better hold onto hydraulic cement, which I would use to patch along the interior crack. Beyond this point, and acknowledging that the 'Torgue Lok' product is good, I question whether there is even a need to use the expensive Torque Loks. The only 'advantage' I see with the T.L is perhaps the ability to 'ever so slightly' apply pulling force to minutely (if any) pull the 2 parts of the cracked concrete structure together, or to possibly hold them together tighter than 'non-torquable' materials such as a simple, strong, flat steel bar or even rebar would hold. My goal would not be to try to 'pull the concrete together', but rather to simply prevent it from separating any further. If I can prevent any further movement, then I can just repair the crack inside the pool using only cement, epoxy or whatever product I chose to prevent water from escaping. A patched crack will block water, as long as the under-lying structure does not move further and ruin the interior surface patch.

Awesome!!

Less talking please

Hi, trying to repair a structural crack in my new (don't get me started) pool myself. How has your method held up over the years?

Good video. The tip about using the plastic bag while guing up the PVC joint is worth keeping in mind. Instead of rearranging the pipes to avoid damage, I would suggest placing a short piece of 2 x 4 or 2 x 6 directly under the pipes at right angles. This will prevent sag.

Great job seems like a good product as well thanks for the video

How to put cement around a pvc pipe would have been a better name for this.

You didn't show how you stopped the other end, or used the air compressor to get 30lbs. you know the tough stuff.. you talked a lot in the first 2/3 about not much. This could have been a 3 min video. But thanks.

Job looks great

Did you slope the drain?

So did the jets stay in or shoot off??

V notch the crack and staple

You do not need ten bags and alot of overkill and that last shot of was looking a little rough

Lol that is a dream skimmer look at all that room you have I would have this skimmer in in about 45mins show a REAL replacement next time where you only have limited space and aren't they raising that deck...set it kind of low...but for homeowners great video....but I have never had one that I could plumb in after

Hey i have a question about your travertine tile video you did how can i contact you

In lieu of the polyurethane sealant why not enlarge the hole by coring a hole larger and then use link seals to seal and secure the pipe to the gunnite. The link seals are made from rubber and stainless steel bolts to compress the rubber. After bolting and sealing the area around the pipe follow up with hydraulic cement to further protect the degradation of the bolts from salt if they have a salt water pool.

Nice job, is the plan to push back your fence and get more level backyard space?

Great work! Well planned. I enjoyed it.

Nothing is going to stop the fissure. A lot of weight but the apoxy in the crack is enough to keep the water in.

Hi from Peter the pool man have been renovating pools for 40 years and there is a lot of things you are doing wrong

Hi from Peter pool man I have been roundabout in pools for 40 years and you're doing a lot of things wrong

Why stay with 1.5” returns instead of upgrading to 2” and cut a little larger hole in this stage of reno?

30psi is pretty high when we only test gas lines to 5kpa/1psi

Thank you so much! My pump went out and after installing a new one and pressure washing my frog pond, I noticed it continually pumped air bubbles into the pool along with the water. Additionally, the ground was saturated with water near the skimmer which clued me in on where the air had been coming from. I sure don't want to do this job, but I am of meager means and can't afford to pay someone else. I really appreciate your excellent tutorial. I've worked with a lot of engineers in my time and if you are not one, you certainly have the mind for it.. Much respect to you on your excellent work!

I'm not following. Why does adding a downturn elbow (*which impedes waterflow) and has to come straight back to your existing line do anything for sheer resistance. The pipe coming out of the elbow would still be going back, and still be subject to soil movement as I see it. Unless you are talking about frostline depth concerns, I see only disadvantages. Enlighten me someone?

It looks really good. Excellent job!

I’m about to try this repair on my pool but I have some questions. I don’t have plaster people coming in after the repair so would I sand down the hydraulic cement after it sets up? And can you tell me about a waterproofing membrane? I’m new to this all but I’m giving it a shot.

Great Videos! Where is your company located?

Do you have a vacuum port hooked to one of your skimmers?

crack will crack.put a liner👍

This looks great. I love this.😅😅 You did a great job. I'm looking to install something like this in an enclosed patio. What do you have at the end of the pipe? Is it just an open pipe? I'm worried about creepy crawlers coming into the patio.😅

Great video could i ask where u got the slip return fittings for 1.5 inch pipe?