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It’s really not pitched because of the orientation to the pool deck pavers, but has worked great regardless. Little standing water after a rain, maybe 1/8”, but dries quick. I would do it the same way of doing again.

Yep, they stay in no problem, I’m happy with the decision, been probably three seasons so far and all good

At 27:28 he says he used the remaining epoxy to fill the crack as well.

Can you ask in the comments here so everyone else receives the answer as well?

Exactly, starting the new fence build tomorrow actually, got all my materials delivered earlier this week. All cedar, shadow box fence, gonna put it up and then take old fence down. Bought a big jungle gym club house for the kids, that the real motivation to do it :) also bought the “Mud Mixer” concrete mixer, looking forward to trying it out.

Like what?

Such as?

Yes would love to hear your input oh great poolmaster.

Thank you for the very nice comment and feedback! I'm not an engineer, just to stubborn to let anyone else do anything for me :) It's been a few years since this job, and no issues have come it with my repairs. Good luck with your project!

I agree with your logic actually and have not had any issues with installation at all yet. From my research/prep to tackle this one, I found multiple sources that supported the elbow, but certainly not an expert. Thanks for comment, will be interested to hear thoughts from others on this one as well.

My guess is if you install the elbow horizontally, any downward movement of soil would exert a twisting force on the pipe rather than a sheer force.

@@seephor I don't see it as twisting force at all. I do see it as a lever force, though, as opposed to pure shear force. But we all know the amplifier effect of a lever. So I still do not see value in adding an elbow and going down, to another elbow going out (back away from wall) as having advantages outweighing the drawback. Arguably if the assumption is, by going deeper, then you *may* be subject to less soil movement on the soil that is deeper. In particular if you were just above Frostline and went down and back to get below Frostline. But I'm in TX where we really don't worry about such things.

@@jamesbsa6450 What I meant is to elbow to the side, not down. If you elbow to the side, you have given the pipe some room to move down without breaking because the downward force on the lateral turns into a twisting force through the pool wall.

Hey there, thanks for the comment and question. I should caveat that I am not a pro, just a DIY guy, so there is a lot I don't know as well. I would recommend (if you haven't already) watch the videos that Torque Lock has posted, they show some being installed when the entire pool is not being refinished. I think will be basically looking to "patch" over the hydraulic cement with a plaster finish that matches your current pool's finish. Regarding the waterproofing membrane, this is a brush on compound that just further helps to cover the repair, we used a product called "HEY'DI SB", and the number on the bucket is "TL1941505". Hope this helps!

Hi Carol, thank you for the nice comment. I don't actually have a company, just do this stuff DIY for my personal home. I love a challenge and figuring things out, but I also hate paying other people to do stuff :) Hope the videos are helpful!

Negative, neither of my skimmers are plumbed with any secondary lines, single suction line each. I actually use the Tiger Shark electric robot vacuum that has built in filters, it works awesome! I prefer this to minimize the junk going into my filter which is also a cartridge filter. I don't have to touch or worry about the filter the entire season. I have a leaf net vac that a garden hose hooks up to that I use in the fall once leaves start falling before I get my cover on.

Hi there, I wouldn't say I really have any chipped corners in general with my stone. Of course it is natural stone and some chipping and deformities are unavoidable but I certainly wouldn't expect to be seeing so much chipping that it's a noticeable concern. Not sure I can attach a photo here, but it still looks just as it did in the video still. I know from when I ordered my Travertine that there was a "Premium" grade that I chose, so could it be that Nordic stone is a lower grade possibly? Hope the project turns out well!

@@SeldomRest Thank you!! Yes probably a lower grade as I was told later on like you can pay a premium price for “pieces” to be picked out by hand and etc. I understand the natural look but I guess we need to ask to replace a few we have too many chipping pieces. Nowadays is very hard to get quality and be satisfied with the job.

Thank you for the nice comment! I have my drain connect to a buried downspout 4" pipe and just have the end open still. Depending on where you run yours to, they make various grates or covers for either PVC pipe or corrugated drain pipe as well. If yours is installed in an enclosed patio you may even be able to use some sort of screen or hardware cloth wire on the end to keep stuff from crawling in since you shouldn't have much leaf or debris getting in the channel drain. Hope this helps, good luck on the project.

Hey there, thanks for the comment. If your talking about the "extension fitting" from around 3:30 in the video, I got that at a local pool supply company in St. Louis called "R&S Pool & Spa". If you're looking for the actual return fittings, I just ordered those on Amazon, Link below if it works: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXPUL93/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I just friction fit those in, did not glue them in place at all, so when I winterize I just pull them out with a pair of channel locks and am able to insert my rubber plug in the smooth return pipe. Works great for me.

Hey there Will, thanks for the comment. I've been very happy with the drain and the performance so far; no issues at all with setting, rising or movement. The only consideration or call out I would make is that my installation required the drain to be basically "Flat" from end to end because of the paver deck layout, this isn't a huge deal but because of this the drain will hold a shallow amt of water after a rain. If I had to re-do it, I would do it the same way. Let me know if you have other questions or thoughts. Thks!

Hey there Andrew. I'm starting our 3rd season since making the repair, and no issues at all so far, no bleed through or any signs that there was a crack or issue. Regarding your question, I would think you could successfully make the repair by containing your "demo" to the staple template footprint as long as you are able to get to the actual pool shell and not just to the plaster. Since we were doing a complete renovation I wanted to make sure to remove any remaining plaster around the crack in case it had become compromised or loose. I do think it would be a good idea to use a crack chaser blade to enlarge the crack regardless. This isn't something you want to have to do more than once, so I tend to air on the side of overkill. If I had to do it again, I would do it the same way and use the torque lok staples again for sure. Good luck, let me know if I can help further. (Keep in mind, I'm doing this DIY too).

Great to hear! Thanks the comment.

Thanks for the comment! Glad it was helpful!

I didn’t put any pitch on mine, just kept it level with the finished height of my pavers, no issues with it draining at all, it will however hold a little bit of water and may not flush out dirt/debris due to this as well. No big deal for me though, can easily hose out clean after a couple years. Hope this helps, good luck with the project.

Hey there, I believe the crack was existing. The plaster company used a hydro-blaster to demo the existing finish, which is much less intrusive compared to using demo hammers. I did not notice any leaking issues prior to our renovation either. I'm really glad I took some time to inspect the pool shell though, otherwise this would have definitely caused me an issue. It's been about two seasons since I made this repair and so far so good.

Hey there, I don't remember the full cost, but less than $300 per skimmer, including the new Hayward skimmer.. It took me several weekends to complete the job, but I was working on it my spare time. I would think someone doing this job for the first time should plan 3 full days to knock it out.. A pro would probably do it in one day. I asked a pool guy what they would have charged for the job, they said at least $3k per skimmer in my area.. Back to the cost, I already had the tools needed to complete the job, so that's not included.

Hey there, thanks for the comment! Good luck on the project, hope it turns out great.

Hey there, I guess the only way to truly keep it from freezing is to have your PVC down below the frost line in your area. I get well below freezing in my area over the winter and have not had any issues so far with my installation.

Hey there, thank you for the comment and feedback! Good luck on the project.

Ha, it's definitely not a fun one. So far so good on the two I replaced on our pool though. Good luck on yours!

Hey Chris, I don't have a parts list, but you should be able to find all of these materials at any big-box hardware store. Good luck with your project!

We had Pebble Tech installed, it was their Pebble Brilliance Aqua Falls. Here's a quick time-lapse of the finish being applied: ruclips.net/video/iDOeXvamSCc/видео.html

Probably not a bad idea. So far so good with it, hopefully it stays that way. Thanks for the comment.

Looks like the torque lock is already coated. No paint necessary

The rebar used in the original gunite shell is not painted and so the staples don’t need it either. Once it’s encased in concrete oxygen and moisture can’t get to it and start rusting. The staples do seem to have some oil on them which would also help a little.

Hey there, thanks for the comment. I have not used any leak-fix products but don't why you couldn't modify this type of design to allow you to install as a closed loop. Check out LeakTronics channel, they have a ton of content covering leak detection and repair: ruclips.net/user/leaktronics

Thanks for the feedback, makes sense.

Concrete will not crush a PVC pipe. For new construction, there's a lot of settling that happens. The foam allows some movement between the concrete. However, I think the overdid it here. It shouldn't really be that heavily applied and up to the pool surface. It should be held back more.

I would think so, should work just fine. Thanks for the comment!

Probably so, but as a few other's have commented, you just want to be careful anytime you have PVC under pressure with air. I think I've seen some all PVC designs available out there though. Thanks for the comment.

Hey there Joseph, I have not, this is the only one I have installed and it was on my own project. You may search for videos of someone installing in a driveway to get some ideas on the approach there or the link below may give a good starting point as well: ruclips.net/video/wmSNlFueFVQ/видео.html Hopefully this is a little helpful. Good luck on the project!

Really happy you got value from this video! Hope your pressure test goes well and you can move on with the build and be swimming just in time for summer! Thanks for the comment.