@TexasToastGuitars you bet,I have been a guitar and instrument/ electronics tech for over 45 years and a printing press operator from jr.high school to professional employment for a number of years where I 1st heard the term platen.Keep up the fantastic work! Rawk on
Good video, Matt! Very informative. Just a helpful hint…now your camera is over exposed and everything looks washed out. Your previous video exposure look good to me. Thank you
@@docsiltanen Doc I'm going to say something to you that only guys like you will really understand... If you want to do this for real that's the tool you need.
@ I hear you. I also need a drum sander and a thickness planer…but I’m slowly getting all the pieces in place. My new Iwata gun is the next purchase so I have it in time for December .
Very interesting. Would love to see you doing a conical radius because i cant picture how you get the swinging arms set up to do that. I agree 'conical radius' makes more sense than 'compound' because its the radius of a cone. Simple and correct. Much love from Scotland.
How does it work when you do a conical radius? Can the two bits around which the whole thing rotates pivot so they point at each other? I imagine they have to be inline with one another. Very nice demonstration!
Yes it is if you are radiusing from nut to heel in a single transition. It wouldn't be if you decided to do a compound radius from say 7th fret to heel.
@@Lamster66 Interesting point. Can't say I ever seen that configuration, then again I generally prefer a constant radius so I don't look for compound/conical radius. If I'm going for something different, I actually prefer a no radius dead flat fingerboard over any compound/conical radius I've played.
I was just going to ask if you use the sandpaper eraser thingy to clean out the clagged sawdust and boom you did it just as i was thinking it 😅 that really helps make the sand paper work better longer. I've only used the radius standing blocks before. This looks way better if you have the money and space for that sander.
Hi matt ! This set up is superb! Unfortunately i dont have the space to get a full size belt sander like that and so im using a router radius jig. The last guitar i built, i radiused the fretboard and then cut the inlay pockets - this makes it a bit tricky as you need to try to hold the inlays on a radius while marking and this is not the most ideal so im always looking to improve (luckily i did a superb job and the inlays came out perfect 😂) Do you think that i can cut the pockets first and then route the fretboard radius over the mother of pearl? I think the router might break the MOP inlays .. I do have a piece of MOP left over so i think ill do a test see how it goes ... Cheers matt , thanks for the videos !!!
It looks like the neck is not parallel with the sanding belt. I guess that's to use more surface area of the sanding belt? Assuming the radius stays perpendicular even though when I first looked at it, didn't make sense.
I couldn't remember why you angled your apparatus. Makes sense to me. That would be one tool I would like for Christmas nudge nudge wink wink say no more say no more. 😂
If you can get your hands on an aluminum radiusing beam that's at least 22"-24" in length, you'll have a very good chance of having no dips or high spots. This is because no one end of the fretboard will be visible at the limits of the beam during its use, provide stroke length is disciplined. Most standard scale length guitar fretboards are between 20 and 21 inches. If the beam is too short, then during use its ends will not cover the limits of the fretboard, meaning material removal will tend to be concentrated in the middle zone of the board, leaving the limits (the lowest and highest frets) high.
Definitely need to bump that ISO setting back a bit. Letting way too much light in and it is washing out everything that isn’t dark colored, like your shirt.
It's pretty ironic that you would say let the tool do the work and then 30 seconds later say, "I'm just going to push on this end to get rid of the flat spot." When the fretboard is radiused after it is cut to its final tapered shape, the body end of the fretboard will always take longer to radius than the nut end because it is wider. Don't force it. Just continue raduising the entire length of the board until no flat spots exist.
@@peachmelba1000 I have looked through every comment you have made on my channel... You are always offering some kind of " correction" It's really time for you to start your own channel.
@peachmelba1000 you're right you don't hear me saying that. It's because of my personality not that I don't think you're incorrect. I have a sneaking suspicion that everything you know is theoretical. Things that should work however you seem to forget about any human elements. But what do I know? The bottom line is I have no idea who you are. This is why I said you need to start your own channel. Maybe it's time for you to share your gifts with the rest of the world.
@TexasToastGuitars Maybe it's time to get off the internet for a while and file the edges off of your sarcasm. I have a sneaking suspicion that you're only happy when everyone kisses your ass. God forbid someone you've "never heard of" point out anything to you. Who tf are you lol I'm nobody, and I like it that way. Anyway, seethe.
@TexasToastGuitars Sarcasm is the coward's lie, man. Too much time online? _I_ have a sneaking suspicion that you're only happy when your a** is being kissed. God forbid someone you have "no idea" of say anything you don't like. Who tf are you lol Your personality smacks of "arrogant roady who thinks _he's_ famous because the band he works for is huge". Lol fail Btw, I'm nobody, and I like it that way. Seethe.
Nice touch on the proper use of ",Platen"
Thanks!
@TexasToastGuitars you bet,I have been a guitar and instrument/ electronics tech for over 45 years and a printing press operator from jr.high school to professional employment for a number of years where I 1st heard the term platen.Keep up the fantastic work! Rawk on
@@bradsmith7311 That is very kind of you to say Brad, we will keep on plugging away and maybe I'll even get the camera exposure right next time HAHAHA
Good video Matt, Thanks - Cheers from Canada
@@danandratis hi Dan glad to hear about all the music you are making brother
Awesome! ❤
@@RevoFoto thanks so much my friend
GOD bless you Matt.
@@josephknudson5097 thanks as always brotherman
Good video, Matt! Very informative. Just a helpful hint…now your camera is over exposed and everything looks washed out. Your previous video exposure look good to me. Thank you
@@joeltoste938 I know I saw that when I was editing I think I found the Goldilocks setting though now
@@TexasToastGuitars…. Great video Matt, don't worry, those few golden hairs in this video show us even more of your wood grain wisdom 🪵🪚✏️📐🎓😉
I really want one of those !
@@docsiltanen Doc I'm going to say something to you that only guys like you will really understand... If you want to do this for real that's the tool you need.
@ I hear you. I also need a drum sander and a thickness planer…but I’m slowly getting all the pieces in place. My new Iwata gun is the next purchase so I have it in time for December .
Very interesting. Would love to see you doing a conical radius because i cant picture how you get the swinging arms set up to do that.
I agree 'conical radius' makes more sense than 'compound' because its the radius of a cone. Simple and correct. Much love from Scotland.
Great suggestion!
How does it work when you do a conical radius? Can the two bits around which the whole thing rotates pivot so they point at each other? I imagine they have to be inline with one another.
Very nice demonstration!
Great video. I like the term conical radius way better than compound radius. It's technically more correct too.
@@sunn_bass I certainly didn't invent the term but I do like to think it is the correct one.
Thanks for watching
Yes it is if you are radiusing from nut to heel in a single transition. It wouldn't be if you decided to do a compound radius from say 7th fret to heel.
@@Lamster66 Interesting point. Can't say I ever seen that configuration, then again I generally prefer a constant radius so I don't look for compound/conical radius. If I'm going for something different, I actually prefer a no radius dead flat fingerboard over any compound/conical radius I've played.
I was just going to ask if you use the sandpaper eraser thingy to clean out the clagged sawdust and boom you did it just as i was thinking it 😅 that really helps make the sand paper work better longer. I've only used the radius standing blocks before. This looks way better if you have the money and space for that sander.
@@edgelite the only bad part about those sandpaper cleaning sticks is finding them in my dirty shop
Hi matt !
This set up is superb! Unfortunately i dont have the space to get a full size belt sander like that and so im using a router radius jig. The last guitar i built, i radiused the fretboard and then cut the inlay pockets - this makes it a bit tricky as you need to try to hold the inlays on a radius while marking and this is not the most ideal so im always looking to improve (luckily i did a superb job and the inlays came out perfect 😂)
Do you think that i can cut the pockets first and then route the fretboard radius over the mother of pearl? I think the router might break the MOP inlays ..
I do have a piece of MOP left over so i think ill do a test see how it goes ...
Cheers matt , thanks for the videos !!!
It looks like the neck is not parallel with the sanding belt. I guess that's to use more surface area of the sanding belt? Assuming the radius stays perpendicular even though when I first looked at it, didn't make sense.
@@rmelancon1 I talked a little bit about that in the video
Do you take on repair work or just build your own guitars?
We do not do any repair work at this time
I couldn't remember why you angled your apparatus. Makes sense to me. That would be one tool I would like for Christmas nudge nudge wink wink say no more say no more. 😂
@@seanjoynt2605 Sean I think that should be on everyone's Christmas list
Great video, but it’s the big belt sander I can’t afford!
If you can get your hands on an aluminum radiusing beam that's at least 22"-24" in length, you'll have a very good chance of having no dips or high spots. This is because no one end of the fretboard will be visible at the limits of the beam during its use, provide stroke length is disciplined. Most standard scale length guitar fretboards are between 20 and 21 inches.
If the beam is too short, then during use its ends will not cover the limits of the fretboard, meaning material removal will tend to be concentrated in the middle zone of the board, leaving the limits (the lowest and highest frets) high.
Understandable, but it can be a multi-tasker
Definitely need to bump that ISO setting back a bit. Letting way too much light in and it is washing out everything that isn’t dark colored, like your shirt.
@@adamcone6856 yep
I think I figured it out for next time... It's not always easy for someone like me who knows very little about cameras
It's pretty ironic that you would say let the tool do the work and then 30 seconds later say, "I'm just going to push on this end to get rid of the flat spot."
When the fretboard is radiused after it is cut to its final tapered shape, the body end of the fretboard will always take longer to radius than the nut end because it is wider. Don't force it. Just continue raduising the entire length of the board until no flat spots exist.
@@peachmelba1000 I have looked through every comment you have made on my channel... You are always offering some kind of " correction"
It's really time for you to start your own channel.
@TexasToastGuitars Well, I don't hear you saying I'm wrong.
@peachmelba1000 you're right you don't hear me saying that.
It's because of my personality not that I don't think you're incorrect.
I have a sneaking suspicion that everything you know is theoretical.
Things that should work however you seem to forget about any human elements.
But what do I know?
The bottom line is I have no idea who you are.
This is why I said you need to start your own channel.
Maybe it's time for you to share your gifts with the rest of the world.
@TexasToastGuitars Maybe it's time to get off the internet for a while and file the edges off of your sarcasm.
I have a sneaking suspicion that you're only happy when everyone kisses your ass.
God forbid someone you've "never heard of" point out anything to you. Who tf are you lol
I'm nobody, and I like it that way.
Anyway, seethe.
@TexasToastGuitars Sarcasm is the coward's lie, man.
Too much time online?
_I_ have a sneaking suspicion that you're only happy when your a** is being kissed.
God forbid someone you have "no idea" of say anything you don't like. Who tf are you lol
Your personality smacks of "arrogant roady who thinks _he's_ famous because the band he works for is huge".
Lol fail
Btw, I'm nobody, and I like it that way.
Seethe.
You’re a bit over exposed now. The camera I mean.
@@coneyislandguitars I was just saying the same thing to Joel. I think I got the Goldilocks setting now