I've gotten into the habit of always zeroing the calipers before I do a measurement. Never a waste of time in my opinion. Don't want to measure 50 parts, then find out it wasn't zeroed properly.
Better yet, because I do a lot of hole spacing measuring I have a few sets of Center measuring calipers. They don't require any setting or calculation. They save a ton of time.
One of the most useful tips I got from a time-served machinist on the use of calipers was actually to use them instead of tweezers to remove tiny metal splinters, because they're always at hand and their ground jaws are more precise than all but the most expensive of tweezers.
I'd never thought to use calipers the way you did at 2:56 to measure the pin, immediately went to get my pair to try it out 😅 definitely going to remember that, great stuff as always thanks adam
Thank you for this great information. I'm an older retired machinist/toolmaker who was trained on vernier scale calipers. The dial calipers were the "new thing". I own some digital calipers but never thought to use them in this manner.
Digital calipers are underrated. Like a good micrometer, they can be ham-fisted. Once you learn the "feel" (by comparing blind measurements to a mic) you can get .001 or better accuracy and repeatability all day long.
All dial-calipers I've used have the ability to reset zero. The real benefit of digital calipers is the ability to quickly switch between units, either for conversions or so you simply don't have to go back to your bench to swap calipers. :)
@@glabifrons Right. I have one with three unit setting. Metric, inch and fractions. Last one is good for sorting loose drill bits. (don't ask me why). 😂
The gauge pin one really hits me hard.. I have inspection department measuring reamed steps as you said, use calipers or depth mic, saying it’s out of tolerance , but using a proper size gauge pin like I used at the machine is by far the true most functionally accurate way to measure that feature.. I haven’t seen anyone else use it until I saw this video. And I love your videos , someone who truly understands what they are doing
Have been SOP for blind/bottom threads at every place I've worked at. Measure the length of the thread gauge, zero the caliper, thread the gauge in to the part until it stops and measure between the end of the gauge and the top face of the hole.
Yes! The ability to zero a digital caliper/mic/dial and gauge is super useful and under utilized. If you inspecting a series of parts it much better to zero it at the nominal dimension and then you can just see the plus and minus reading instead of looking at a long string of, in some cases random, numbers and trying to remember the nominal number. When doing a production of parts I'll often grab a couple calipers and zero each one for a specific feature and then I can just grab each one and instantly know if I'm on size or not without any mental math which could (and will at times) fall you. Also another use is measuring between the head of the caliper and the moving hook. Think if you needed to measure from the mill table to the bottom of a part over hanging in a vise. Not something overly common but its pretty easy to do if you have the right scenario. Getting the zero is a bit of setup as you need to build a reference with something like gauge blocks but it is a quick and easy way to make that sort of a measurement if you have to do it over and over.
as long as I've been using calipers.. and all the functions i know of them.. never knew these tricks! this is amazing,, thnx dude.. knowledge is power!
Always look forward to seeing your video's, usually I learn something new. I'm not sure if you have a tool and cutter grinder, but I'd love to learn more about them from you specifically. I retain information much better from you than the other's out there on youtube.
Automatic thumbs up for not using the work "hack" or "amazing" or "must-know". I'd give an extra thumbs up if I could for providing actual useful information. Thank you!
Wow this is great, I never even thought to zero my calipers anywhere other than fully closed. I feel kinda dumb for not thinking of this myself. Thank you!
In general, you can use your calipers to do addition and subtraction. By doing the measure, set zero, and measure something else, you are doing subtraction. If you measure one thing, note the measurement, measure something else, zero out, move by the noted measurement, zero again, and then close the caliper, you will get the sum of the two. (drop the minus sign) I routinely use this when turning things on my lathe. Measure the bore in the part I am trying to match or mate to, zero out, then measure the part that i am machining, and the number on the caliper is the amount I need to take off. Divide by two and that is the amount I need to move the cross feed. For all hobbyists that use cheap calipers, make sure that the zero is correct for all four measurement points zero at the same time. Clean the inside jaws first. The top of the head should be flush when the outside jaws are clean and closed. Zero the outside jaws and then measure a gauge ring and it should read the right number. If you don't have a gauge ring, you can use the inside of a known good bore, like a good end mill holder. Also, you can zero on the gauge ring and close the outside jaws and you should have the diameter of the bore in gauge ring. Use a gauge block or mic standard and surface plate or other flat surface for the depth. If they are off by a half thou, ignore it. They aren't that accurate anyway. Even high priced calipers have a +- one thou accuracy. If they are off, but close, you might be able to stone them in. If they are way out (I had a harbor freight set that was out by 7 thou for the depth tang) you should probably pitch them, unless you have a surface grinder. You shouldn't even think about trying to mill them to the correct them. They are hardened and ground stainless, and seem to work harden even more. (if that's even possible)
1st time viewing 1 of your RUclips videos & I quickly SUBSCRIBED✅ As I’m very new to the machining 🌎. At 61 years old I purchased a Sherline Lathe (with all the attachments) & at 63 I purchased a Sherline Mill with Most of all the attachments & cutting tools. 🤓So I’ve been playing catchup with all this. 👉I’m Always looking to learn new techniques & practical skills with these machines. Reason for the late in age purchase them for the simple reason of (How much $$$ I was paying a guy to make me Aftermarket Custom Machined Aluminum Detail parts for my 1:24 scale auto models” ) Anyway your style of teaching is the type I favor… 💯 Looking forward to learning more from your channel.. 🙏Thanks Lee🙏 aka:☯️ZenModeling☯️
ohhhhh...this is so useful. I was using a claiper to shoot the tangent points of both holes. I didn´t drill my holes yet so I´m going to try this to check earier results. Thanks!
> using handy tips and tricks to improve accuracy - good > using a good, proven brand of calipers, to further accuracy - great > uses inches.... 😦 Really appreciate the vid 😁
Adam, Great content! Any tips and tricks for the Heimer Indicators. Just started using one, it seems like a time saver even on an old Bridgeport. Keep up the informative videos.
Yes. If you want to measure holes of different sizes measure them twice, once with the inner jaws, once with the outer jaws, then average. Personally I do this even on holes of the same size if it's a measurement I need to be particularly accurate.
@@wmcrash Sure, but I have no problem getting within half a thou or so measuring twice, which is good enough for what I need. Zeroing and measuring I'm usually off by around a thou and change. I'm just a hobbyist.
@@wmcrashYou should note that if the center distance of two threaded holes is that critical, then the clearance holes in the mating part are probably too small.
A trick I've seen Steve Summers use is to measure a simple feature. Any length, width, dia, anything, and zero the calliper on that measurement. Then, when you close the calliper, you have a negative reading of your feature dimension, but because you have closed the callipers, it doesn't matter if the callipers are knocked, or bumped. you can always read off the previously measured feature by ensuring the callipers are closed. It's more difficult to explain that it is to do, and has saved me a good deal of time when I go back to my callipers to remind yourself of the dimension I've just measured.
I use these methods often. Another "trick" I use is to Z my calipers at the dimension I'm cutting to on the lathe. Then measure after my first pass. With no math needed, it displays how much material that needs to be removed. Z out the DRO, move the tool in that value, Z the DRO again at my final dimension. I can then back out and take a series of cuts down to 0.000" and verify with my calipers.
I do similar things all the time to avoid having to do math. There is usually a good way to take an easier measurement of one that isn't easy to get to.
When turning diameters, I will preset the caliper to the target diameter, and then while turning the part, a check of your progress will show how much you need to remove to reach your target diameter.
Thanks for sharing! Do you have any tips to compensate for the chamfer or radi on the pins? I think sometimes they can touch the feature instead of the bottom flat, unfortunately.
I use the inner and outer jaws on two holes, then average the two normally. Zeroing on the hole diameter is going to be a lot quicker, and involve less memory powwr in future, thanks!👍👍
Using your old method will give you the right answer on holes with different diameters... the method shown here will give you the wrong answer on holes with different diameters,
@@PiefacePete46 true, especially when picking up threeaded holes and not accurate bores, but this method does save pulling out a calculator/smartphone 😉
Question for the machinists out there (you included)... because the caliper measuring surface you used is ground flat and the hole is round, using them to measure a hole diameter or spacing results in an estimate, does it not? It will be very close to the actual measurement, especially as the hole diameter increases, but still an estimate because the caliper surface does not directly mate with the hole's surface.
The id measuring jaws that I used are ground to a blade shape . There’s a small flat land at the end of the blade , maybe .2mm wide . And yes that does make it so you aren’t truly measuring the widest point of the bore, but calipers aren’t the first choice for very high precision measurements. The variance is within the acceptable range of a tool like that
The jaw width does indeed cause calipers to under-read the diameter of a hole. However, the method shown here to measure the pitch between holes removes that diameter error. It's worth noting that this method only works when measuring the pitch between two features (holes, or slots) of the same size.
This is almost obvious. The second i saw the hole centerline trick, i realized o should have already understood it. I feel crazy for not coming to this myself.
Handy tricks. I do a lot of hole space measuring so I have a few centerline measuring calipers which are better at that than this is because they accommodate differences in hole size and holes on different planes.
I first used a set of vernier calipers about 40 years ago, and it wasn’t till I watched a Mr Crispin video a couple of years back that I heard the term ‘very nears’
@@emmajacobs5575 Crispin and I chat occasionally. I'm ex Pratt & Whitney Vane and Blade/ EDM guru and Crispin is a blade grinding planner with Rolls-Royce. Been over 40 years for me. My dad had me machining threads on a lathe by age 12.
This is almost obvious. The second i saw the hole centerline trick, i realized o should have already understood it. I feel crazy for not coming to this myself.
Tip: After measuring the center distance, be sure to re-zero your calipers before using them to layout said holes. Ask me how I know.
If I zero them anywhere but a clean zero, the alarms start to sound 🚨until🚨it's 🚨 reset to zero.
That hole center is clever…but suggest doing math will keep one out of future trouble.
I've gotten into the habit of always zeroing the calipers before I do a measurement. Never a waste of time in my opinion. Don't want to measure 50 parts, then find out it wasn't zeroed properly.
Better yet, because I do a lot of hole spacing measuring I have a few sets of Center measuring calipers. They don't require any setting or calculation. They save a ton of time.
ok I'm laughing 😆
One of the most useful tips I got from a time-served machinist on the use of calipers was actually to use them instead of tweezers to remove tiny metal splinters, because they're always at hand and their ground jaws are more precise than all but the most expensive of tweezers.
Genius
It's important to keep in mind that both holes must be the same diameter for trick #1 to work properly.
I'm so glad this is uploaded in video format and not a short. Thanks Adam
I'd never thought to use calipers the way you did at 2:56 to measure the pin, immediately went to get my pair to try it out 😅 definitely going to remember that, great stuff as always thanks adam
crazy
It's the standard way to measure a step with calipers, but it's the thing I always forget.
Right! He didn't even mention it either. Never realized calipers had a built in height gauge.
👍👍😎👍👍
Give this man a medal. Wish I figured this out a long a time ago. So useful that zeroing tip. Thank you
Thank you for this great information. I'm an older retired machinist/toolmaker who was trained on vernier scale calipers. The dial calipers were the "new thing". I own some digital calipers but never thought to use them in this manner.
Digital calipers are underrated. Like a good micrometer, they can be ham-fisted. Once you learn the "feel" (by comparing blind measurements to a mic) you can get .001 or better accuracy and repeatability all day long.
This is one of the reasons why digital calipers are so much faster in real use than analog ones. Incremental mode has many uses!
Yes it is BUT each type of caliper has it's own super power. That's why I keep an excellent example of all 3 ready at all times.
All dial-calipers I've used have the ability to reset zero.
The real benefit of digital calipers is the ability to quickly switch between units, either for conversions or so you simply don't have to go back to your bench to swap calipers. :)
@@glabifrons Right. I have one with three unit setting. Metric, inch and fractions. Last one is good for sorting loose drill bits. (don't ask me why). 😂
The gauge pin one really hits me hard.. I have inspection department measuring reamed steps as you said, use calipers or depth mic, saying it’s out of tolerance , but using a proper size gauge pin like I used at the machine is by far the true most functionally accurate way to measure that feature.. I haven’t seen anyone else use it until I saw this video. And I love your videos , someone who truly understands what they are doing
Have been SOP for blind/bottom threads at every place I've worked at. Measure the length of the thread gauge, zero the caliper, thread the gauge in to the part until it stops and measure between the end of the gauge and the top face of the hole.
Yes! The ability to zero a digital caliper/mic/dial and gauge is super useful and under utilized. If you inspecting a series of parts it much better to zero it at the nominal dimension and then you can just see the plus and minus reading instead of looking at a long string of, in some cases random, numbers and trying to remember the nominal number. When doing a production of parts I'll often grab a couple calipers and zero each one for a specific feature and then I can just grab each one and instantly know if I'm on size or not without any mental math which could (and will at times) fall you.
Also another use is measuring between the head of the caliper and the moving hook. Think if you needed to measure from the mill table to the bottom of a part over hanging in a vise. Not something overly common but its pretty easy to do if you have the right scenario. Getting the zero is a bit of setup as you need to build a reference with something like gauge blocks but it is a quick and easy way to make that sort of a measurement if you have to do it over and over.
Thank you for sharing….please keep mentoring (simple or complex) subjects
Another great video. Thanks Adam!
Even if you know these features, it's always a pleasure to watch your videos.
Awesome trick with the gauge pin.
as long as I've been using calipers.. and all the functions i know of them.. never knew these tricks! this is amazing,, thnx dude.. knowledge is power!
Really solid simple tips and demonstration. Will definitely keep these in mind.
I spent a few years in a machine shop and I wish I knew this beforehand because it would have saved me a ton of time
Always look forward to seeing your video's, usually I learn something new. I'm not sure if you have a tool and cutter grinder, but I'd love to learn more about them from you specifically. I retain information much better from you than the other's out there on youtube.
I agree! This guy can drop some knowledge that I'm always thirsty for. I
Very valuable tricks, can't live without them in precision manufacturing
More! I need more tips and tricks. That was very useful, thank you
Automatic thumbs up for not using the work "hack" or "amazing" or "must-know". I'd give an extra thumbs up if I could for providing actual useful information. Thank you!
Both of these are new to me. I have to go try it now.
Excellent tips! Thanks for posting these.
Those are so brilliant and simple!
Nice tricks. I will probably use one or more of these at some point.
Wow, SUPER handy tips, thanks! The one about hole distance is brilliant, it’s something that comes up allll the time!👍
Genius! I just hope I can remember it when the need arises.
Wow this is great, I never even thought to zero my calipers anywhere other than fully closed. I feel kinda dumb for not thinking of this myself. Thank you!
Thanks Adam, these tips are going to be instantly helpful. 👍
Great tip👍 and excellent video
Thank you for spreading your knowledge. Great job as usual.
Very slick.
Thank you.
Thanks for sharing this! It will come in handy.
Really good tip to measure hole distance!
I always wondered how that was done! Thank you! (the first tip)
In general, you can use your calipers to do addition and subtraction. By doing the measure, set zero, and measure something else, you are doing subtraction. If you measure one thing, note the measurement, measure something else, zero out, move by the noted measurement, zero again, and then close the caliper, you will get the sum of the two. (drop the minus sign) I routinely use this when turning things on my lathe. Measure the bore in the part I am trying to match or mate to, zero out, then measure the part that i am machining, and the number on the caliper is the amount I need to take off. Divide by two and that is the amount I need to move the cross feed.
For all hobbyists that use cheap calipers, make sure that the zero is correct for all four measurement points zero at the same time. Clean the inside jaws first. The top of the head should be flush when the outside jaws are clean and closed. Zero the outside jaws and then measure a gauge ring and it should read the right number. If you don't have a gauge ring, you can use the inside of a known good bore, like a good end mill holder. Also, you can zero on the gauge ring and close the outside jaws and you should have the diameter of the bore in gauge ring. Use a gauge block or mic standard and surface plate or other flat surface for the depth. If they are off by a half thou, ignore it. They aren't that accurate anyway. Even high priced calipers have a +- one thou accuracy. If they are off, but close, you might be able to stone them in. If they are way out (I had a harbor freight set that was out by 7 thou for the depth tang) you should probably pitch them, unless you have a surface grinder. You shouldn't even think about trying to mill them to the correct them. They are hardened and ground stainless, and seem to work harden even more. (if that's even possible)
Simple but effective. Thanks!
Definitely methods I'll be using from now on 🤔
Ohh the second one is nicely done!
I actually had to use it for a really small feature. Now i know how to probably do it without any math thx 👍🏻
My eyes near popped out of my head at 2:55 when he measured the pin with the back of the inside calipers. You can do that?
I do this at work everyday yet here I am watching on my time off lol
While I knew the first trick I never thought of the second trick thanks 👍👍👍
Fantastic. Many thanks.
Jesus tha OD trick is so good and simple that I feel dumb not figuring it out on my own
1st time viewing 1 of your RUclips videos & I quickly SUBSCRIBED✅ As I’m very new to the machining 🌎. At 61 years old I purchased a Sherline Lathe (with all the attachments) & at 63 I purchased a Sherline Mill with Most of all the attachments & cutting tools.
🤓So I’ve been playing catchup with all this.
👉I’m Always looking to learn new techniques & practical skills with these machines. Reason for the late in age purchase them for the simple reason of (How much $$$ I was paying a guy to make me
Aftermarket Custom Machined Aluminum Detail parts for my 1:24 scale auto models” )
Anyway your style of teaching is the type I favor… 💯
Looking forward to learning more from your channel..
🙏Thanks Lee🙏
aka:☯️ZenModeling☯️
Damn it. All you car to say was two tricks and I immediately figured them out. But I might never have done so otherwise...
Bravo
Nice trick, thanks. Charles
EXCELLENT! Very helpful. Thank you!! :)
ohhhhh...this is so useful. I was using a claiper to shoot the tangent points of both holes. I didn´t drill my holes yet so I´m going to try this to check earier results. Thanks!
Adam- thank you.
> using handy tips and tricks to improve accuracy - good
> using a good, proven brand of calipers, to further accuracy - great
> uses inches.... 😦
Really appreciate the vid 😁
A nice use of the least-known measurement surfaces on calipers at 2:51. I've even had people argue with me that these are not measurement surfaces.
Adam, Great content! Any tips and tricks for the Heimer Indicators. Just started using one, it seems like a time saver even on an old Bridgeport. Keep up the informative videos.
So simple and logical but new to me.
Actually useful information.thats cool
In first trick important note is, that both holes/slots have to be same exact size, right?
Yes. If you want to measure holes of different sizes measure them twice, once with the inner jaws, once with the outer jaws, then average. Personally I do this even on holes of the same size if it's a measurement I need to be particularly accurate.
@@teguh.hofstee With calipers, "particularly accurate" is already out the window.
@@wmcrash Sure, but I have no problem getting within half a thou or so measuring twice, which is good enough for what I need. Zeroing and measuring I'm usually off by around a thou and change. I'm just a hobbyist.
@@wmcrashYou should note that if the center distance of two threaded holes is that critical, then the clearance holes in the mating part are probably too small.
another great video
👍 thanks for sharing!
Ugh awesome tip.
A trick I've seen Steve Summers use is to measure a simple feature. Any length, width, dia, anything, and zero the calliper on that measurement.
Then, when you close the calliper, you have a negative reading of your feature dimension, but because you have closed the callipers, it doesn't matter if the callipers are knocked, or bumped. you can always read off the previously measured feature by ensuring the callipers are closed.
It's more difficult to explain that it is to do, and has saved me a good deal of time when I go back to my callipers to remind yourself of the dimension I've just measured.
Great info!
Good tips!
Thanks :-)
thank you... that is very good information.
now this is REAL education!
🎉🎉 I was today years old.....
thanks Adam. Gilles
good video adam
I use these methods often. Another "trick" I use is to Z my calipers at the dimension I'm cutting to on the lathe. Then measure after my first pass. With no math needed, it displays how much material that needs to be removed. Z out the DRO, move the tool in that value, Z the DRO again at my final dimension. I can then back out and take a series of cuts down to 0.000" and verify with my calipers.
I do similar things all the time to avoid having to do math. There is usually a good way to take an easier measurement of one that isn't easy to get to.
Thank you!!!
I still find it weird how some people don’t know some of these tricks. I figured them not long after I picked up a pair.
I have used callipers for over 10 years but didnt think of that lmao
When turning diameters, I will preset the caliper to the target diameter, and then while turning the part, a check of your progress will show how much you need to remove to reach your target diameter.
Nice, thanks 🙂👍☕
Thanks for sharing! Do you have any tips to compensate for the chamfer or radi on the pins? I think sometimes they can touch the feature instead of the bottom flat, unfortunately.
I use the inner and outer jaws on two holes, then average the two normally. Zeroing on the hole diameter is going to be a lot quicker, and involve less memory powwr in future, thanks!👍👍
Using your old method will give you the right answer on holes with different diameters... the method shown here will give you the wrong answer on holes with different diameters,
@@PiefacePete46 true, especially when picking up threeaded holes and not accurate bores, but this method does save pulling out a calculator/smartphone 😉
Good tricks
ok where was this video last week when I could have used that first trick
very cool
Wow
Question for the machinists out there (you included)... because the caliper measuring surface you used is ground flat and the hole is round, using them to measure a hole diameter or spacing results in an estimate, does it not? It will be very close to the actual measurement, especially as the hole diameter increases, but still an estimate because the caliper surface does not directly mate with the hole's surface.
The id measuring jaws that I used are ground to a blade shape . There’s a small flat land at the end of the blade , maybe .2mm wide . And yes that does make it so you aren’t truly measuring the widest point of the bore, but calipers aren’t the first choice for very high precision measurements. The variance is within the acceptable range of a tool like that
The jaw width does indeed cause calipers to under-read the diameter of a hole. However, the method shown here to measure the pitch between holes removes that diameter error.
It's worth noting that this method only works when measuring the pitch between two features (holes, or slots) of the same size.
You can also just measure from the outermost part of the hole and the next hole inner part and you dont need to measure the hole and zero it out yet
second one looks not 100% precise
but first one really is a banger ^^
Well, certainly something my trusty 30yo Mitutoyo 531-122 can't do.
But nice to know.
WE STARTED THIS BUSINESS IN 2001 MY DEAR
Now tell me how to prevent metal filings from collecting on the calliper.
Nice! Thx!
This is almost obvious. The second i saw the hole centerline trick, i realized o should have already understood it. I feel crazy for not coming to this myself.
What if holes are two different sizes?
Thanks
thanks
I use the first trick casually to prove to Mech Es I’m not as dumb as I look lol.
👍👍
Would even be easier in metric
If you wanna measure center distances, you can also measure from say right edge of both holes, and you get the same measurement
Best trick is to set it to metric.
Handy tricks. I do a lot of hole space measuring so I have a few centerline measuring calipers which are better at that than this is because they accommodate differences in hole size and holes on different planes.
Though very useful for quick checks, I still refer to all verniers as very nears.
I first used a set of vernier calipers about 40 years ago, and it wasn’t till I watched a Mr Crispin video a couple of years back that I heard the term ‘very nears’
@@emmajacobs5575 Crispin and I chat occasionally. I'm ex Pratt & Whitney Vane and Blade/ EDM guru and Crispin is a blade grinding planner with Rolls-Royce. Been over 40 years for me. My dad had me machining threads on a lathe by age 12.
This is almost obvious. The second i saw the hole centerline trick, i realized o should have already understood it. I feel crazy for not coming to this myself.