I just bought a full bose retrofit sound system including amplifier for my e92 335d which I am going to spend the next week or so fitting.. at least something good can come out of this horrible time
Dominykas Dainys it would of come up on the diag misfire or multiple misfires it’s the lambda sensor...but I’d deffo replace the old coils anyway if they haven’t already been changed recently
@@zman86turbo yea but usually if engine malfunction come just after the tune, it's 99% the coils or the spark plugs. Most of N54s that stay stock never have any issues, it's the tuned ones that start pissing everyone off.
@@zman86turbo These cars tuned have to change coils almost every 30k miles. I've owned two N54's. if you're tuning it go ahead and put new coils and spark plugs. thank me later
Dominykas Dainys I can attest to this as I have an 09 335i that has just shy of 140k now and outside of having to replace two coil packs and a standard (much needed) spark plug change, my car has been about as reliable as a vehicle can get and it is bone stock, no mods whatsoever. I’ve been all over the country in this car and it’s never left me stranded. It does go through tires though!
I love watching what you do. I’m an old retired disabled vet and could only dream of somebody giving me a car like that. Wow keep doing what you do and I’ll keep watching.
I bought a 2008 335xi about 8yrs ago and added the basic bolt ons and reflash, car went mid 12s on pump gas... I was smart enough to have a warranty and get the updated turbos injectors water pump coils and associated common failure points addressed. I loved that car and purchased a new 340i and now m340i because of it. My old 335xi was purchased by a friend and has been trouble free for around 4yrs now.
Hey Samcrac I’ve owned a 335 for two years and mine especially makes over 500whp, and I strongly recommend you ditch COBB and use MHD, since COBB is outdated for the N54 platform and MHD is constantly fixing bugs n improving driving experience.
I'm pretty sure the lambda errors is because of those air intakes. The engine isn't getting the correct amount of air which causes the mixture to be all wrong. Put the stock intake back and problem should be fixed.
I'm guessing the turbo wastegates/thrust bearings don't allow for 15psi (cobb stage 1+). Not a fan of his stock style connection FMIC. Perfect reason for upgraded turbos!! Check fuel trims in OBD mode (ST/LT) OBD mode lets you see raw voltage/amperage. Also check low and high side fuel pressures with trims. If pressures are low trims should go positive to compensate but it can only go so far. Also the heater code for the O2 tells me O2 sensors might be failing.
You do know that since its an xdrive version, you have to be careful with using staggered wheels since the fronts and backs now have a slightly different diameter. This will cause the central differential to constantly make up the speed difference when driving, causing overheating and failure of the central diff.
DistinctHD also my friends new M340i xdrive is staggered from the factory. also the power split shouldn't matter to the central diff... it should be able to send however much power it needs for however long it needs to
@@silver_n5442 well i know some xdrive models come with staggered sets from the factory but the tyre size is critical. If you mix and match and end up with slightly different circumferences, you're in trouble. Also I know the central diff is able to handle the torque, but it's the constant speed difference when driving at high speeds that's causing issues.
One thing I admire about you Samcrac is your Never say die approach to your projects. I hope that will become more infectious than this bloody virus. Content like yours is certainly making all this downtime easier to endure. For that, I want to thank you.
Sam, with the high heat those engines already create under hood, I wouldn't be surprised if you lost a sizable amount of power throughout the entire rpm range. It will also clog fast due to under hood oil vapors, rendering the filter trash in about a month....The oem airbox with a decent high flow filter is more than adequate at your displacement and needs, even at the track. It will supply the coolest air possible that you need for the turbo engine. If you want a 'large' colorful intake, there are pricey options to still grab cool air from outside the engine bay. -Rob, bmw MT
Almost positive that the air hammer from knocking the studs out probably damaged the 02 sensors. They are pretty sensitive to hard hits and vibrations, especially if they are original
I have a 335i as well, and I believe the engine code is caused because of the loose turbo wastage gate which is found almost in every n54 twin turbo, if you turn the car off and turn it back on it goes away. You can upgrade the wastage gate on the turbos os get new turbos or maybe go the single turbo route. keep those great videos coming👌💯
Hi Sam so I did a study with an aftermarket air intake system for my car my code reader displays the air temperature that the car is breathing in when I put the aftermarket air intake system on with the cone air filter the temperature jumped up 48 degrees more than the stock needless to say the stock one went back on love videos keep up the good work
Jeremy Lutzz it all depends on where you put the CAI. As far from the engine/exhaust is best like at the bottom of the bumper, but then you risk getting water in your intake.
thats when you just flip the stock filter upside down, cut some slits in your hood and you got yourself a budget CAI for no cost. don't ask me how i know.
@@andersnerhus7524 definitely gonna be hotter drawing from around the engine vs from the hood gap where most stock airboxes end up. but yeah, you're right with a turbo it doesn't matter as much
I had one. The Air filters make no change in power apart from the loud turbo noises after tuned. Mine had MHD. I had some cheap autozone air filters with a metal pipe into the inlet. Budget Performance car is indeed what this car was. I spend no more than $500(MHD Stage 2+, VRSF Catless Downpipe, Autozone Cone filter) and the power I got from it was incredible. The Engine malfunction codes is from old Spark plugs and Ignition Coils. Very cheap on eBay. Mine worked well.
BMW designs their intake so well from factory, when you put on a “cold air intake” I’ve found that most of the time you will actually lose power. However power losses are slim 5-6hp, it’s worth it for the turbo noises☺️☺️
true. Engines need als cold as you can deliver AIR. Not 100 degrees air from the engine. If you wanna have power filters then use a big pip surround them to the front if the car.
Been driving and maintaining a bmw f10 for couple of years now put around 45k miles, these cars are not that complicated to work on, great video sam, stay safe ✌🏻😎
I don't understand why you don't have many more likes right now. I love your videos and watch them immediately when I see them! Keep up the awesome content.
yeah the cone intakes without a heat shield get lots of heat soak. I remember a forum post where someone actually tests over like 3 dyno runs. after the 2nd run you lose like 10HP per run... and the 1st run had 0 gains. you're literally losing HP. either get the ones that fit in the heatshield, have a replacement, or mount in the kidney grills
Those dual cone intakes are good for 20 horse or so when tuned. Maybe 5 hp when stock. Doesn't matter that they take in hotter air as the car has an intercooler. @dylannguyen those back to back dyno runs are normal heat soak power loses, not related to the intakes. These 335i's need bigger intercoolers than what the factory stocks them with.
@@maxwellbrown2584 but your putting more heat into the intercooler to deal with. It's why I said it probably causes a 10 hp drop. The intercooler will still drop that temperature down, but not as much if it wasn't heat soaked. Anyone that I've ever paid attention to that scientifically tunes engines will tell you this.
Hi Sam I have the same platform, an E93 325i from 2011 and I love my car, nice job you did there, you gave me some ideas now! Keep up the good job! Greetings from Germany
The dealer giving you $1500 for this car is an insult. Reminds me of when I wanted to trade in my old '99 Saturn SL1 for a new car in 2016 and one GM dealer appraised that car at $250. Sure, it had 186,000 miles, but was in good driving condition, no damage or dents, four new tires and a pretty new battery. I took it to another GM dealer who was offering $3000 for any trade-in.
That's definitely a fair and reasonable offer for a 17 year old Saturn, regardless of mileage. They're just gm vehicles with EVEN LOWER quality. Which is hard to do when entry level GM cars are already about as low quality as you can possibly find
One of my dream cars! I wouldn't care if it had over 200k! I am thinking of selling my wrx and getting a convertible 335i if the appocolapse doesn't come first!
@@An0nDEViant heatchamps2011 has a point tho. The intake temperatur increase of ~30-40°C is negligible compared to how much the compression of a turbo will heat up the charge air. Assuming an air temperature of 20C and a adiabatic compression of 15psi you'll get a temperature increase of almost 90°C. Only through compression. In addition to that the charge air will be heated up by the turbo itself on top of that since the turbo will naturally heat up during use. A turbo can easily reach temperatures of 500°C on the exhaust side and some of that heat will bleed through to the intake side through the shaft and whatnot. If you have an adequate intercooler it won't make any difference because the charge air will be cooled down to stock temperatures. Maybe even lower depending on what intercooler you run and how much bigger it is compared to the stock intercooler. And as you saw in the video the car didn't overheat and it didn't throw codes because of high intake temperatures.
@@it_is_just_a_volvo I have heard from multiple sources that you want to start off with cooler air since the compressed air will then end having higher density. I think Engineering explained even covered this. Less dense air requires a higher flowing intake system to flow the same amount than cooler air allows.
Sam love your channel! I pick one of these up myself from Copart. Turbos were blown, sucking oil up into the motor big time. Just installed bigger turbos, downpipe, inlets and I am working my way thru valve cover gasket and intake valve cleaning. Donate me your stock wheels man, I’m in Orlando! Mine are 17s and weak lol. Anyway, Love the content, very helpful and inspirational. Keep it coming and stay safe with this Corona. Grace n Peace.
Hey, I have an E60 535 with this same motor doing the same thing. We replaced the valve cover and RB turbos. It’s still burning oil. Did you fix your issue?
Bill I did. Love the car. Did you remove the intercooler and check piping for oil in the low spots? I had to turn my intercooler to drain overnight and remove my intake and piping to drain excess oil. While I was in there I gave the intake valves a cleaning from the guk that normally form due to direct injection. It smoked for a little while like a few miles but cleared up.
Hey you should consider a jb4 chip tune with a mhd backend software tune. It will probably make more power than the Cobb. Plus you should totally checkout xhp and do a transmission flash. They also offer an x drive to rwd conversion through software.
I have been overlooking the 335. I have been one of those chumps who would always say "Should of got an M3", but this video is starting to make me see the error of my ways. I am really needing to get a fun car for my 135 mile round trip commute (when not working from home due to a pandemic) and this might be a contender.
I've noticed after market exhausts are often way smaller and lighter, which is good in one way. But they often leave a lot of empty space at the back of the car, right in front of the rear bumper. When you drive at high speeds, this builds a cushion of high pressure air on year your axle which pushes your car UP...and the effect is a lot more powerful than the effect of any spoiler you will be putting on the back of your car.
The new Florida OCHA Inspector is quite impressive. A little short and a lot of feather's but he was right under the car and doing a great job.... Donavon...
That 30FF code... You are in it for a new set of turbo's. Ditch the COBB Access port and Swap to MHD in the event you plan on doing any more with the car other than more minor maintenance items. Also stay away from Burble tunes unless you want to kill the Turbo seals. XHP app is handy for transmission tuning and if you ever want to disable X drive as well.
@@Mizzoubaseballll tires are probably the same size, just out farther in the rear. Shouldn't freak the car out if that's the only difference. Man I miss the days of cars not giving a shit if you had 22s or 14s
You guys need to check the rubber couplings coming right off the turbos, they are notorious for cracking and jacking your boost, causing the Eng. Malf. light.
The pod filters you installed are usually higher airflow than an airbox. However the horsepower gains they promise are almost always bogus. Some people will use PVC or other tubing to reroute the filters somewhere in the bumper or other cavities to allow colder air. Having them right on top of the engine like that will have good airflow, but the air will still be fairly hot.
After seeing your issues thought I'd give my 5 cents. I still have my 2007 E92 335I. with over 200000kms. I had the engine malfunction and here's what I did. The fuel Pump was replaced as there was a recall by BMW due to the original being under powered and couldn't deliver enough petrol when accelerating. I had all the Turbo vacuum lines replaced only to find that the issue was caused by a small crack on one of the vacuum canisters.... Another thing to check is the back brake tend to squeak on take off. That's fixed by greasing the rear brake's and is completely normal.
When rattle can spraying anything get yourself a can tool that allows you to pistol grip the 'handle' to spray without using a finger or thumb. It is much more comfortable and allows for better side to side spraying. You won't go back once tried. Trust me on that. Available at any box store, etc.
It is one of the least aggressive tunes out there and considering it's Sam and the milage it's probably a good choice. I mean look at how he checks for a boost leak 😂
You got me convinced. I'm going to buy a case of that 2K Gloss Black Paint and I'm going to paint my outer Fairing on my Fatboy and my Hard Bags. I think that is what the DR. Ordered!!!
How is that car getting cool air with the twin intakes on top of the engine with no enclosure to shield them from the engine's heat? A Cool air system is important to an engine's performance.
@@lifewithanxietyeveryday5897 He has two K&N air filters in the engine bay. Recycling hot air for a turbo is one thing but the engine itself needs a cool air system. You cannot have an air intake system in the engine without a cover or heat shielding. That engine is only breathing in hot air. Look at that video again. I have rebuilt several cars and when an engine Breathes in hot air it will never run right. That's why he keeps tripping codes.
@crazythedon That's fine for a race car because it's continually moving and there's cool air continually flowing through that engine bay but for a street car it will never run correctly, he is tripping codes because of those double K&N air filters. Those cones are intakes that's how the car is breathing that K&N system is in the engine bay, when he's stopped or idling his engine is sucking in hot air, there is no other way around that.
Nice video! Put a CSL boot lip on, will make it look so much better! Please get rid of those stupid air filters, the box is specifically designed with designated air flow channels for a perfect inlet air flow. These are prone to causing a lack if Inlet air pressure and can cause exhaust emission readings in the dash and computers.
Hey dude... love the e9x platform too good video... these’s car have very sensitive to NOX sensors due to emissions regulations... you might find that there are 2 modes the engines work in (homogenous and straf) is to reserve power/fuel keep emissions low and running fine and the other is for full power... when playing around with exhaust mods something as little as changing position of sensor could throw sensor errors. Love the video and the car espesh e92
John Kamau I remember mine passed Texas State Inspection with Catless Downpipe, Cone filters, and a stage 2 tune with no fuss from the inspection guy. Payed $20 rather than $100 under the table .
I had the same issues with my N54 and you definitely need to replace the coils and plugs and more than likely the expensive fuel injectors! Lastly walnut blast the intakes to get the most of your mods.
Stay healthy and safe everyone! If you're looking to pass the time, order a small mechanics tool set online, grab a shop manual and fix up your ride!
I deserve a car like that..!!!
What size are those wheels?
Finally get all this time off work to where i want to do outside work finally, but the weather is like "nope we're going back to winter now"
I just bought a full bose retrofit sound system including amplifier for my e92 335d which I am going to spend the next week or so fitting.. at least something good can come out of this horrible time
Can we get a car collection update
most of N54 throw engine malfuntion faults after a tune because old tired coils cannot handle it. If not - the injectors are leaky.
*M54 too, mine from time to time throw engine malfuntion and the engine start to trmbling, but after a few seconds evrything return to normal...*
try high pressure fuel pump also as my n53 did the same with that code and warning.
Engine lights and n54 go together.
@@blrn54 because people are too stupid or poor to maintain them.
Sam, you should do a garage or “barn” update to show us every car you currently have and what your plans are with them?
@@jaiden051 wow can't believe he's got that many subs! I remember when Sam was my little hidden gem, oh how fast they grow up :'(
@@kc4415 I had just noticed that today how many subs he has now. That Pizza car put him on the map.
I can't believe he doesn't have a lift yet.
@@michaelwynne4346 your so right michael just a 2 post would allow more videos as well , and less crawling around the cars Steve in aus
@@michaelwynne4346 think is to show regular people with normal equipment can do this as well
new coils are 30$ a pop. Change them all, when they are old they cannot handle more boost.
Dominykas Dainys it would of come up on the diag misfire or multiple misfires it’s the lambda sensor...but I’d deffo replace the old coils anyway if they haven’t already been changed recently
@@zman86turbo yea but usually if engine malfunction come just after the tune, it's 99% the coils or the spark plugs. Most of N54s that stay stock never have any issues, it's the tuned ones that start pissing everyone off.
@@zman86turbo These cars tuned have to change coils almost every 30k miles. I've owned two N54's. if you're tuning it go ahead and put new coils and spark plugs. thank me later
Dominykas Dainys I can attest to this as I have an 09 335i that has just shy of 140k now and outside of having to replace two coil packs and a standard (much needed) spark plug change, my car has been about as reliable as a vehicle can get and it is bone stock, no mods whatsoever. I’ve been all over the country in this car and it’s never left me stranded. It does go through tires though!
Dominykas Dainys it’s the coils man. That and new plugs and I bet the problem goes away
Sam you need your own lift , I like how you do everything the fugal way . Great video
Great episode Sam! I believe COBB also makes tuning tools for THE FOCUS RS as well. chow.
Yeah but COBB has given up on the N54 platform. It was probably unfortunately the worst tuning choice Sam went with.
" There's no such as thing as *too much boost* "
~LS engine
whel to be honest even leroys old engine lifted the heads from to much boost
@@boocho1896 nope it lifted the head from a lack of boost the ls wasn't having it
*coughs 4g63
Mike Edge lmfaoooop imagine
yeag their really is when you get a bend on those rods
I love watching what you do. I’m an old retired disabled vet and could only dream of somebody giving me a car like that. Wow keep doing what you do and I’ll keep watching.
Perfect timing, I was needing some good content to pass "shelter in place" time lol
The last time I was this early corona was just a beer
cosmo boyy wish I could be you.
Made my day 👌
Damn that’s a good one 😂
😂😂
Be careful you don't get lime disease with that case of corona.......
Chicken was doing her part too 😁😁
I bought a 2008 335xi about 8yrs ago and added the basic bolt ons and reflash, car went mid 12s on pump gas... I was smart enough to have a warranty and get the updated turbos injectors water pump coils and associated common failure points addressed. I loved that car and purchased a new 340i and now m340i because of it. My old 335xi was purchased by a friend and has been trouble free for around 4yrs now.
Hey Samcrac I’ve owned a 335 for two years and mine especially makes over 500whp, and I strongly recommend you ditch COBB and use MHD, since COBB is outdated for the N54 platform and MHD is constantly fixing bugs n improving driving experience.
BMWs are trash
Alessandro Moretti and what do you drive?
Pedro HBR I love how he has no answer 😂 N54 🔥🔥
@@dave6933 what do I drive? A bicycle
@@dave6933 lmaoo right?
I'm pretty sure the lambda errors is because of those air intakes. The engine isn't getting the correct amount of air which causes the mixture to be all wrong. Put the stock intake back and problem should be fixed.
DCI's do not gives any error codes on this platform
anakondase that would be incorrect
anakondase the dual cones intakes don’t cause the half check engine light
I'm guessing the turbo wastegates/thrust bearings don't allow for 15psi (cobb stage 1+). Not a fan of his stock style connection FMIC. Perfect reason for upgraded turbos!! Check fuel trims in OBD mode (ST/LT) OBD mode lets you see raw voltage/amperage. Also check low and high side fuel pressures with trims. If pressures are low trims should go positive to compensate but it can only go so far. Also the heater code for the O2 tells me O2 sensors might be failing.
You do know that since its an xdrive version, you have to be careful with using staggered wheels since the fronts and backs now have a slightly different diameter. This will cause the central differential to constantly make up the speed difference when driving, causing overheating and failure of the central diff.
That isnt true actually. I have an 08 xdrive model aswell, and they come with staggered sizes from the factory...
DistinctHD also my friends new M340i xdrive is staggered from the factory. also the power split shouldn't matter to the central diff... it should be able to send however much power it needs for however long it needs to
There the same size wheels I’m pretty sure me meant to say offset
@@silver_n5442 well i know some xdrive models come with staggered sets from the factory but the tyre size is critical. If you mix and match and end up with slightly different circumferences, you're in trouble. Also I know the central diff is able to handle the torque, but it's the constant speed difference when driving at high speeds that's causing issues.
One thing I admire about you Samcrac is your Never say die approach to your projects. I hope that will become more infectious than this bloody virus. Content like yours is certainly making all this downtime easier to endure. For that, I want to thank you.
the car looks amazing absolutely love the wheels and exhaust sounds great
Sam, with the high heat those engines already create under hood, I wouldn't be surprised if you lost a sizable amount of power throughout the entire rpm range. It will also clog fast due to under hood oil vapors, rendering the filter trash in about a month....The oem airbox with a decent high flow filter is more than adequate at your displacement and needs, even at the track. It will supply the coolest air possible that you need for the turbo engine. If you want a 'large' colorful intake, there are pricey options to still grab cool air from outside the engine bay. -Rob, bmw MT
sam I can't believe you don't have a pneumatic kit from harbour freight. You get an impact gun, air chisel, gringer all sorts of stuff for cheap!
Keep it up Sam
I hope you give this to someone who truly needs it. Especially now. You're doing great.
Almost positive that the air hammer from knocking the studs out probably damaged the 02 sensors. They are pretty sensitive to hard hits and vibrations, especially if they are original
I love your channel. I sold my BMW to adopt my two boys and while I am glad I did I still miss the fun driving. This makes me smile. Thanks bud.
Shoulda gone mhd or jb4. They are the best tunes for the n54
I have a 335i as well, and I believe the engine code is caused because of the loose turbo wastage gate which is found almost in every n54 twin turbo, if you turn the car off and turn it back on it goes away. You can upgrade the wastage gate on the turbos os get new turbos or maybe go the single turbo route. keep those great videos coming👌💯
Hi Sam so I did a study with an aftermarket air intake system for my car my code reader displays the air temperature that the car is breathing in when I put the aftermarket air intake system on with the cone air filter the temperature jumped up 48 degrees more than the stock needless to say the stock one went back on love videos keep up the good work
Jeremy Lutzz it all depends on where you put the CAI. As far from the engine/exhaust is best like at the bottom of the bumper, but then you risk getting water in your intake.
thats when you just flip the stock filter upside down, cut some slits in your hood and you got yourself a budget CAI for no cost. don't ask me how i know.
Those filters have to go more like lose 10hp then gain.
Naturally aspirated or forced induction? Turbo heats up the air, ic cools it down again, ambient temperature doesn't matter "that" much.
@@andersnerhus7524 definitely gonna be hotter drawing from around the engine vs from the hood gap where most stock airboxes end up. but yeah, you're right with a turbo it doesn't matter as much
I had one. The Air filters make no change in power apart from the loud turbo noises after tuned. Mine had MHD. I had some cheap autozone air filters with a metal pipe into the inlet. Budget Performance car is indeed what this car was. I spend no more than $500(MHD Stage 2+, VRSF Catless Downpipe, Autozone Cone filter) and the power I got from it was incredible. The Engine malfunction codes is from old Spark plugs and Ignition Coils. Very cheap on eBay. Mine worked well.
BMW designs their intake so well from factory, when you put on a “cold air intake” I’ve found that most of the time you will actually lose power. However power losses are slim 5-6hp, it’s worth it for the turbo noises☺️☺️
true. Engines need als cold as you can deliver AIR. Not 100 degrees air from the engine. If you wanna have power filters then use a big pip surround them to the front if the car.
@@toudewolbers indeed flowguides!
Been driving and maintaining a bmw f10 for couple of years now put around 45k miles, these cars are not that complicated to work on, great video sam, stay safe ✌🏻😎
I don't understand why you don't have many more likes right now. I love your videos and watch them immediately when I see them! Keep up the awesome content.
Man, a great classic Samcrac solo build video. Collab videos are great but I missed videos like this.
I started feeling a little sick looking at those cheesy air filters.
Hope you self-quarantine
Project Farm has done a video on which air filter performs better!
lol these filters are fine and are hard proven to make a difference on this platform whether you like it or not.
It sounds GREAT ! The filters let’s out the whine from the turbos. AWSOME ! What present. 👍🏻🙋🏻♂️🇩🇰
Lol I find it absolutely hilarious that I constantly get Domino's ads on your videos 😂
For the N54, most people use MHD and JB4 because it’s way more bang for the buck, but it’s nice to see someone fix up an E92 335 :) ~ from 335is owner
Those intakes give an extra 10 hp when they Dyno it with the hood open. You probably lose 10 hp with the hood closed.
Cole Spolaric, just what I was thinking, those BMW’s get really hot under the hood.
i knew there was a catch... nice one!
yeah the cone intakes without a heat shield get lots of heat soak. I remember a forum post where someone actually tests over like 3 dyno runs.
after the 2nd run you lose like 10HP per run... and the 1st run had 0 gains. you're literally losing HP.
either get the ones that fit in the heatshield, have a replacement, or mount in the kidney grills
Those dual cone intakes are good for 20 horse or so when tuned. Maybe 5 hp when stock. Doesn't matter that they take in hotter air as the car has an intercooler. @dylannguyen those back to back dyno runs are normal heat soak power loses, not related to the intakes. These 335i's need bigger intercoolers than what the factory stocks them with.
@@maxwellbrown2584 but your putting more heat into the intercooler to deal with. It's why I said it probably causes a 10 hp drop. The intercooler will still drop that temperature down, but not as much if it wasn't heat soaked. Anyone that I've ever paid attention to that scientifically tunes engines will tell you this.
Sam - thanks for sharing your auto expertise with us. Your narrations and explanations are always informative and enjoyable to watch!
Cool chicken, we need to see more of it.
That tune at the end of the vid is amazing. One of the reasons I watch till the end!
BMW repairshop says that Bmw:s are great, they make so much money on them 👍
A mate of mine owns a BMW workshop and will tell you that the new ones are literally junk. He'll take you money though :D
Hi Sam I have the same platform, an E93 325i from 2011 and I love my car, nice job you did there, you gave me some ideas now! Keep up the good job! Greetings from Germany
i loved my 335i but it did leave me stranded a few times. AAA is a must have.
What does Aaa stand for?
I loved mine too but I’m glad I got rid of it after 6 1/2 years, it just started to have way too many issues, so I bailed.
3 times lol
The dealer giving you $1500 for this car is an insult. Reminds me of when I wanted to trade in my old '99 Saturn SL1 for a new car in 2016 and one GM dealer appraised that car at $250. Sure, it had 186,000 miles, but was in good driving condition, no damage or dents, four new tires and a pretty new battery. I took it to another GM dealer who was offering $3000 for any trade-in.
Bat Guano that’s why I call them the “stealership.”
That's definitely a fair and reasonable offer for a 17 year old Saturn, regardless of mileage. They're just gm vehicles with EVEN LOWER quality. Which is hard to do when entry level GM cars are already about as low quality as you can possibly find
One of my dream cars! I wouldn't care if it had over 200k! I am thinking of selling my wrx and getting a convertible 335i if the appocolapse doesn't come first!
"Ah yes, you can take the convertible to the country and let the AIDS blow through your hair"
- Stewie Griffin
It's incredible when the rattle can on the lip has less orange peel than the front bumper does under the indicator at 12:22. Solid garage work dude!
In the next video: Sam Crac opens a Maaco Paint location: Rattle Cans 'R' Us.....lol
That front lip is so clean yet aggressive. And the wheels are one of my favorite styles right now.
Hope those staggered wheels are within 3% total diameter or the xDrive is gonna give you a bad time.
Those Konig wheels are amazing on the bmw..great job Sam
🙏
u just removed a cold air intake and installed a hot air intake.
Sirtokesalot47 doesnt matter in a turbo car. It will get hot regardless cuz of the turbo. Intercooler is more important
@@heatchamps2011 plz tell me you are joking.
@@An0nDEViant heatchamps2011 has a point tho. The intake temperatur increase of ~30-40°C is negligible compared to how much the compression of a turbo will heat up the charge air. Assuming an air temperature of 20C and a adiabatic compression of 15psi you'll get a temperature increase of almost 90°C. Only through compression. In addition to that the charge air will be heated up by the turbo itself on top of that since the turbo will naturally heat up during use. A turbo can easily reach temperatures of 500°C on the exhaust side and some of that heat will bleed through to the intake side through the shaft and whatnot. If you have an adequate intercooler it won't make any difference because the charge air will be cooled down to stock temperatures. Maybe even lower depending on what intercooler you run and how much bigger it is compared to the stock intercooler. And as you saw in the video the car didn't overheat and it didn't throw codes because of high intake temperatures.
The air gets passed that steamy hot turbo. A few °C won't really make much of a difference.
@@it_is_just_a_volvo I have heard from multiple sources that you want to start off with cooler air since the compressed air will then end having higher density. I think Engineering explained even covered this. Less dense air requires a higher flowing intake system to flow the same amount than cooler air allows.
Car is Awesome hope you get everything up to date and get it working with all its boost and mods..Be safe
I love how everyone commenting on here is a master bmw tech...
MrPotteeMouf or maybe they have one ?
Owning a BMW makes you either a master technician or long-distance walker
How dare you! I am not master BMW tech.
thats an insult.. master bmw techs are lower on the totem pole than out of warranty n54 owners lol
@@sqmotorsports9230 Can i quote you on this? 😂
For maximum air intake performance, move those twin filters to the front of the vehicle to aspirate cold air. Very easy to do! Good luck!
I love how involved the chicken 🐓 is in the project, knows a lot more about cars than I do 😂😂
Sam love your channel! I pick one of these up myself from Copart. Turbos were blown, sucking oil up into the motor big time. Just installed bigger turbos, downpipe, inlets and I am working my way thru valve cover gasket and intake valve cleaning. Donate me your stock wheels man, I’m in Orlando! Mine are 17s and weak lol. Anyway, Love the content, very helpful and inspirational. Keep it coming and stay safe with this Corona. Grace n Peace.
Hey, I have an E60 535 with this same motor doing the same thing. We replaced the valve cover and RB turbos. It’s still burning oil. Did you fix your issue?
Bill I did. Love the car. Did you remove the intercooler and check piping for oil in the low spots? I had to turn my intercooler to drain overnight and remove my intake and piping to drain excess oil. While I was in there I gave the intake valves a cleaning from the guk that normally form due to direct injection. It smoked for a little while like a few miles but cleared up.
Last time I was this early people knew what “going out” was
Hey you should consider a jb4 chip tune with a mhd backend software tune. It will probably make more power than the Cobb. Plus you should totally checkout xhp and do a transmission flash. They also offer an x drive to rwd conversion through software.
You could also do an alpina transmission flash for free if you wanted to try and figure that out
The mhd tune also lets you customize a bunch of stuff like exhaust burble and aggressiveness
never been a fan of how that engine sounds, at idle it literally sounds like a diesel, and when you rev it it turns into an angry vacuum cleaner
Yeah, I'm good with the stock exhaust.
With the engine cover in it ain't loud. I hated how mine sounded stock but Corsa makes a great cat-back for it
Sound wise B58 and N55 are much better than N54
I have been overlooking the 335. I have been one of those chumps who would always say "Should of got an M3", but this video is starting to make me see the error of my ways. I am really needing to get a fun car for my 135 mile round trip commute (when not working from home due to a pandemic) and this might be a contender.
Hey guess what?
5:55
I rewound. You got me LOL!
5:37
Sam, GREAT series of vids! Maybe your best, keep 'em coming. Makes me wanna go out and buy a 3-series... Thanks for the entertainment! Be safe!
I thought you would know this Sam.... Of course those filters add power..... They're RED!!!
I've noticed after market exhausts are often way smaller and lighter, which is good in one way.
But they often leave a lot of empty space at the back of the car, right in front of the rear bumper. When you drive at high speeds, this builds a cushion of high pressure air on year your axle which pushes your car UP...and the effect is a lot more powerful than the effect of any spoiler you will be putting on the back of your car.
Looks soooo good!
almost as good as the two toned Tesla
The new Florida OCHA Inspector is quite impressive. A little short and a lot of feather's but he was right under the car and doing a great job.... Donavon...
You know this is serious business when we see the chicken supervisor inspecting the work!
Lmao, best comment
Yeah I heard he can be a real cock too🐓
I act like im 12 when i get stoned
That 30FF code... You are in it for a new set of turbo's. Ditch the COBB Access port and Swap to MHD in the event you plan on doing any more with the car other than more minor maintenance items. Also stay away from Burble tunes unless you want to kill the Turbo seals.
XHP app is handy for transmission tuning and if you ever want to disable X drive as well.
Love the wildlife on the video.
Yeah that is what i was going to ask, do they get any credit on the videos :-) it's like watching the Anamaniacs!
Very good video as always Sam! I love that you brought your chicken to help you under your 335i !
Staggared set up on an xdrive? Hope the circumferences are the same!
Pretty sure he meant staggered offset not like 18s on the front and 19s on the rear
@@codeyjoseph2051, pretty much.
Codey Joseph yeah i know, tire sizes need to be within like ~3% (correct me if i’m wrong) or itll throw the transfer case out of wack tho
@@Mizzoubaseballll tires are probably the same size, just out farther in the rear. Shouldn't freak the car out if that's the only difference. Man I miss the days of cars not giving a shit if you had 22s or 14s
yea i believe when he said staggered he means 18inch wheels with diff width and offset
WOW the sound Sam this is such a nice build, just amazing how much life there is backing in the his beast.
When you do an interior clean use a magic eraser on steering wheel to remove greasy look. Also I recommend black grills
You guys need to check the rubber couplings coming right off the turbos, they are notorious for cracking and jacking your boost, causing the Eng. Malf. light.
5:37
GOT THEM
This was a really fun video with a lot of interesting detail. Thanks Sam
Change the Coils I’m sure that’s due on a German car with 200k miles. That’s the first thing I had to do on the 60k miles gti I bought
I had this exact same limp mode problem you have, a walnut blast fixed it for me!
Next episode:
"How to upgrade turbos on N54"
😂😂😂
Sam I enjoy every single video keep going with the good work 💪🏻
Been a while since I've last seen Sam work on a car by himsel...... Oh wait, nvm
The pod filters you installed are usually higher airflow than an airbox. However the horsepower gains they promise are almost always bogus. Some people will use PVC or other tubing to reroute the filters somewhere in the bumper or other cavities to allow colder air. Having them right on top of the engine like that will have good airflow, but the air will still be fairly hot.
$3k for that Cobb tunner 🤔😲 wow !! Too expensive my friend
Them rims and lower front lip look awesome
Subbed since 50 , now almost at 1mil . Amazing !
Agree with you on the wheels, fits the car perfectly! 😊👍🏻
i had königs on my wrx and loved them so much, great wheel for a great price
After seeing your issues thought I'd give my 5 cents. I still have my 2007 E92 335I. with over 200000kms. I had the engine malfunction and here's what I did. The fuel Pump was replaced as there was a recall by BMW due to the original being under powered and couldn't deliver enough petrol when accelerating. I had all the Turbo vacuum lines replaced only to find that the issue was caused by a small crack on one of the vacuum canisters.... Another thing to check is the back brake tend to squeak on take off. That's fixed by greasing the rear brake's and is completely normal.
"Dont be chicken, pass me the wrench"
Please make more videos with this car! It’s a great tuning platform.
sam be carefull start of the video you have that diagnostic thing in one hand and camera in the other while driving.
While he's doing a pull for good measure.
not giving to good example here indeed!
thesparewheel relax mother teresa
When rattle can spraying anything get yourself a can tool that allows you to pistol grip the 'handle' to spray without using a finger or thumb. It is much more comfortable and allows for better side to side spraying. You won't go back once tried. Trust me on that. Available at any box store, etc.
Nice! You got the same cheap Achilles tires I got for my Mustang. Looks great Sam!
Looking good mate, the paint in the bumper looks very decent for a can job, wheels are beautiful
Nobody uses COBB on this platform, get a real tune
Running MHD stage 1+. BMS intakes and FMIC Really nice tune for a daily driver. stage 2+ coming soon
It is one of the least aggressive tunes out there and considering it's Sam and the milage it's probably a good choice. I mean look at how he checks for a boost leak 😂
isn't COBB best for SUBARU?
@@southjerseysound7340 There's a 99.999% chance there's a vaccum leak somewhere.
Yep. A Jb4 is much better
You got me convinced. I'm going to buy a case of that 2K Gloss Black Paint and I'm going to paint my outer Fairing on my Fatboy and my Hard Bags. I think that is what the DR. Ordered!!!
How is that car getting cool air with the twin intakes on top of the engine with no enclosure to shield them from the engine's heat? A Cool air system is important to an engine's performance.
It goes through the intercooler first it doesnt matter where it comes from on a turbo car as much as it does on an n/a car.
@@lifewithanxietyeveryday5897 He has two K&N air filters in the engine bay. Recycling hot air for a turbo is one thing but the engine itself needs a cool air system. You cannot have an air intake system in the engine without a cover or heat shielding. That engine is only breathing in hot air. Look at that video again. I have rebuilt several cars and when an engine Breathes in hot air it will never run right. That's why he keeps tripping codes.
@crazythedon That's fine for a race car because it's continually moving and there's cool air continually flowing through that engine bay but for a street car it will never run correctly, he is tripping codes because of those double K&N air filters. Those cones are intakes that's how the car is breathing that K&N system is in the engine bay, when he's stopped or idling his engine is sucking in hot air, there is no other way around that.
@@lifewithanxietyeveryday5897 you know the intercoolers is for a transmission not the intake, right?
@crazythedon the intercoolers for the transmission not the engine intake.
So ready for the next vid!
The car sounds amazing!!!
Nice video!
Put a CSL boot lip on, will make it look so much better!
Please get rid of those stupid air filters, the box is specifically designed with designated air flow channels for a perfect inlet air flow. These are prone to causing a lack if Inlet air pressure and can cause exhaust emission readings in the dash and computers.
Hey dude... love the e9x platform too good video... these’s car have very sensitive to NOX sensors due to emissions regulations... you might find that there are 2 modes the engines work in (homogenous and straf) is to reserve power/fuel keep emissions low and running fine and the other is for full power... when playing around with exhaust mods something as little as changing position of sensor could throw sensor errors. Love the video and the car espesh e92
John Kamau I remember mine passed Texas State Inspection with Catless Downpipe, Cone filters, and a stage 2 tune with no fuss from the inspection guy. Payed $20 rather than $100 under the table .
Marv-O makes sense, but the e9x n54/n53 are very sensitive
I had the same issues with my N54 and you definitely need to replace the coils and plugs and more than likely the expensive fuel injectors! Lastly walnut blast the intakes to get the most of your mods.