The double arrow stamp is called a disposal stamp, they would no longer be in army use and placed in storage. When war broke out in 1914 there was a big demand for equipment so the old stock was issued again. It was however ordered in 1915 (if I remember correctly) that the quillon or hook be removed from the bayonets for frontline service. I believe it to be a Wilkinson Sword Company made bayonet but the makers mark is quite faded, also the numbers stamped on the guard shoul be a soldier's number so that could be worth looking into. The crown seal means it was made during Edward's VII reign, it was specifically made in September 1908 (9 '08). The small W stamp with number and crown is an Ordnance stamp which means they were inspected and approved for service. Sometimes there is also a stamp on the pommel of the bayonet indicating which regiment this bayonet belonged to. Hope this helps!
@@ketaminebenzine9845 oh amazing! Thank you so much for the comment, will definitely be looking into the soldier's number, I was told it was issued to my great great grandfather who I know nothing about :)
Notes for next time: - The blade should be bright, not blued. Blued blades were a WW2 thing. - Cold bluing isn't bluing; it's a layer of selenium dioxide. It stinks horribly and provides little to no protection against rust. Boil and card the bayonet next time. If re-bluing is desired, learn to rust blue. - Never use a wire wheel on a bayonet again. A carding wheel is what you want. They are cheap. - Sandpaper is occasionally necessary, but you sanded over inspection / acceptance stamps on the grips. - The threaded end of the bolt is lightly peened over the button. Penetrating oil, patience, and the proper tools are your friends when it comes to disassembling these. Use a rawhide mallet instead of a ball peen hammer.
That's an Arisaka type 29 WWII Japanese bayonet. The markings on the right side of the blade are the factory that made it and the city. The mark under the wood in the handle is the maker's or assembly person's name. On the butt is an issuance stamp, identifiable to the individual soldier.
@@BongoVids it looks very similar to one but it's not actually a Japanese bayonet. It was issued to my great great grandfather in NZ :) Since posting I've learned this bayonet was made in September of 1908
![YoungBoy Never Broke Again - Missing Everything [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dTYeMZGzOzw/mqdefault.jpg)
The double arrow stamp is called a disposal stamp, they would no longer be in army use and placed in storage. When war broke out in 1914 there was a big demand for equipment so the old stock was issued again. It was however ordered in 1915 (if I remember correctly) that the quillon or hook be removed from the bayonets for frontline service. I believe it to be a Wilkinson Sword Company made bayonet but the makers mark is quite faded, also the numbers stamped on the guard shoul be a soldier's number so that could be worth looking into. The crown seal means it was made during Edward's VII reign, it was specifically made in September 1908 (9 '08). The small W stamp with number and crown is an Ordnance stamp which means they were inspected and approved for service. Sometimes there is also a stamp on the pommel of the bayonet indicating which regiment this bayonet belonged to. Hope this helps!
@@ketaminebenzine9845 oh amazing! Thank you so much for the comment, will definitely be looking into the soldier's number, I was told it was issued to my great great grandfather who I know nothing about :)
Great video and nice job preserving the bayonet’s story.
Really enjoyed the video Bro, and I wholeheartedly agree with your approach and reasoning in regards to a restoration.
Love your work my guy 🤙🏽
@@MeanerMaoriMeanest thanks so much dude!
Notes for next time:
- The blade should be bright, not blued. Blued blades were a WW2 thing.
- Cold bluing isn't bluing; it's a layer of selenium dioxide. It stinks horribly and provides little to no protection against rust. Boil and card the bayonet next time. If re-bluing is desired, learn to rust blue.
- Never use a wire wheel on a bayonet again. A carding wheel is what you want. They are cheap.
- Sandpaper is occasionally necessary, but you sanded over inspection / acceptance stamps on the grips.
- The threaded end of the bolt is lightly peened over the button. Penetrating oil, patience, and the proper tools are your friends when it comes to disassembling these. Use a rawhide mallet instead of a ball peen hammer.
Will keep all that in mind if I ever do this again haha
I still think it turned out pretty good given what I have access to :)
... well, I have a Yatagã style, from the Mannlicher rifle, same dimensions, fluted bronze handle, restored by the armorer Bodolay. . . !
N
That's an Arisaka type 29 WWII Japanese bayonet. The markings on the right side of the blade are the factory that made it and the city. The mark under the wood in the handle is the maker's or assembly person's name. On the butt is an issuance stamp, identifiable to the individual soldier.
@@BongoVids it looks very similar to one but it's not actually a Japanese bayonet. It was issued to my great great grandfather in NZ :)
Since posting I've learned this bayonet was made in September of 1908
@@NedflyKnivesso it’s a WWI bayonet?
@@Nunya9876 yes