Ive installed about 12 of these ranging from 2 to 5 ton Flexx systems,They make for an all day install with new lineset but man they run super quiet and are extremely efficient.The customers seem to love them.
same, iv only done a few so far, im not a fan of the valves at ah. I found that by using the bit of N2o from the coil i can do a p/t on the lines and then vacuum after i purge it out. First day it took us 6 hours but with alote of trial and error. Second was longer as it was a hanger replacing a 20 year old rheem shorty with a massive 58 in by 25 monster gree. It was fun! This one took 8 hours. Still need bad for a couples of guys..
@@m.vasquez2640 first off im doing my first one but that's not Nitro in the coil, its refrigerant from what I understand, maybe i missed that but pretty sure its 410A in the coil. you opena nd release IDF and OD all 410a..
@@m.vasquez2640 NOTES: 1. Indoor Unit has a factory R-410a holding charge as shown on data plate. Liquid and Gas service valves on Indoor Unit must remain in the closed position while leak testing both refrigerant lines with dry nitrogen
For a Gree Flexx 4-5 ton unit, is it ok to reuse existing 7/8 suction line? The existing system is R410. I plan to clean 7/8 line before reusing it. Any concerns?
Adding a dab of vacuum pump oil to the flaring cone helps the flare form, I also like to put a bit of nylog on the back of the flare. I'm always skeptical about the torque wrench (never feels tight enough) but that's what the manual says 🤷♂. Nice installation in a rough location, will be interesting to see how the system holds up
Yes a bit of pump oil makes a good difference in getting tight joints and no twisting of the copper tubing, also needs to use a second wrench to back up the fitting. I also do not see a trap in the Evap Condensate line, not a good thing to not have.
I agree the torque spec for the suction does seem a bit on the loose side but the nylog and a good flare will get it,I sometimes have to do a flare twice but Ill get it
Thank you for sharing the details of this install! I was able to install this system (36kBTU) as DIY, and your video really helped me out with a lot of steps. Super quiet when cooling and heating!
The Navac battery flare tool works great my new boss always had leaks on his mini split I told him to buy 2 of them one for him and one for me and he hasn't had problems with flares ever since. They're a great knuckle saver 😆 🤣
When you do your flares use the new type off swivel flaring tool and if you hold the conection with a wrench at the above cap it holdes it tighter. If you have a leak don't reflare, just loosen and re tighten 5 lbs more. Workes every time
When I did mine and a friends in Florida I used the nylog like everyone has said it's a must. I used 2 wrenches when tightening the flares like others have said and I did it by feel I hardly ever use torque wrenches. I put the nylog on the threads, front of flare, back of flare and everywhere else to be safe. I was using the factory flares so that helped. One thing I did and I think you did was I added a surge protector and even put in a separate ground rod for it at the condenser unit. The reason I did that was their had been an electrical storm and the office had a mini-split system unit and the AC tech told me it had fried the computer board in the condenser unit. I thought if theirs a surge it will go toward the condenser unit and hopefully the surge protector will direct the surge straight to ground before reaching the condenser unit. The surge that damaged the office condenser unit board was slightly unusual since everyone has underground electric. Great Video thanks for sharing all you do!!!!
Good to see that you put one in your own house too so you can better understand the technology…I did the same with the Bosch system I have about 5 years ago…I’ve had to replace the inverter board once sines I’ve had it so far…
Good job Curtis, you should next time use a backing wrench on the flared fittings, either channel locks or pipe wrench so the fittings don't bend the pipes or plate that holds it, good work regardlesss.
I hate that yellow jacket flare tool. I used it for a short time and had some leaks with it. It’s now resting under the work bench in the back of the shop. I purchased a jb minisplit flaring tool and it’s awesome. That combined with nylog No more leaks.
Best tool for ac flare nuts is an eccentric with a flare cone that floats to keep from having scored flares and off center flares You can hook your drill to it or use a rachet
I used the Rigid with the eccentric cone with torque release when the flare was done. Not cheap but no good A/C tools are, Makes a big difference and Never had leaking joints.
Thanks for sharing. Just installed one in a new build. Haven't yet fired it up yet. I purchased the prefabricated flare ends from my distributor so that part was OK. Soon to find out if it holds a vacuum. I'm sure you have noticed that the air handlers are heavy. The heat strips and controls could be simplified. A little to busy in that area. Manufacturer could also incorporate knockouts for the electrical. Outdoor service panel could also be easier to remove. just my 2 cents.
Great video like normal. A few recommendations I would make are getting a orbital flare tool made for 410a systems. Yellow jacket makes a great one. Do not use your flare nut to pull the copper to the unit. Push and hold the copper flare against the unit and then tighten the nut. Pulling the copper with the nut can pull your flare out of shape. Lastly like others mentioned, use a back up wrench.
When it had its first weird problem you will have to call the engineers for help, do you gree, lol, nice install, hopefully your supplier keeps parts when you need them
On those flares, a couple things I do as GREE trained me. Definitely debar and apply a drop of POE oil to the flare cone. Additionally, when torque the lines, they recommend using a second wrench around the king valve cap.
FYI I use backup wrench on the outside valves when ever I am tighten the flare fittings to keep the metal plate from bending and also I have a flare tool with a clutch that works real good for me
You should find a way to use a 2nd wrench to hold back on the flair connections, not warp 'em out and bend um back. Your torque's will be off because of that.
@UCiz21FXLOV65NTgiUfJsxTg chanel lock on the king valve would be worth a try. Just a thought. I caught hell for.putting nylon on the face of the flair but never had a problem. Should put a dot of it behind the nut also and spin it around. They can be a pain like no other. Good job.
Looked great. Is there a charging mode on those systems to check super heat and sub cooling? Or do you just run the stat down a good bit to make system think there’s a high demand?
@@moorescomfortsystemsheatin6068 I do believe there’s a charging mode. Service manual is 120 pages, and I’ve used it more like a reference book than reading it.
I like the hilmor orbital flaring tool. It’s effortless and doesn’t skin up your knuckles. Also you’ve gotta use a second wrench to hold the service valves when torquing down. Sorry you went through so much trouble with this install.
Use your caps that covers your service valve stems for your second wrench counter force and a light coating of polyester oil. Set your torque values on the high end for each line set connection.
Does the dip switches on the mr cool universal work the same way as the gree flex? My cool has 3 fan speed settings but can't figure out how to change them. On the gree website it says to flip the dip switches certain ways. They look like the same units so I'm guessing gree makes mr cool.
What’s the availability for parts for GREE and there warranty? More components for higher probability of failing I’d hope there would be decent stock or lead times or your gonna have a pissed off customer. I’m going to be installing a 5 ton 19 seer York few weeks, I’m not to fond on high seer equipment but that’s what was determined.
Hey Curtis again super helpful video and again my unit is a Mr cool universal but the exact same unit which is a rebadged gree flex I just checked my condenser after watching this video 6 months ago after I ordered my mr cool universal. Quick question on your gree flex air handler or there additional Allan keys valves or hex key valves where you need to open them to release additional refrigerent from the air handler, the Mr cool universals have them like mine where you have to unscrew the covers just like the condenser and open the valves on the air handler. To release the refrigerent on the low and high side on the air handler itself as well as the condenser. I know you mentioned most units don't have them but considering the Mr cool universals are pretty much exactly the same with mr cool universals Bieng rebadged gree flexes just curios if your gree flex air handler also had those same exact valves. On the air handler where you hook up the high and low side. And pardon me I a may be using the incorrect terms but I am using the terms that car mechanics use with high and low side. For refrigerent lines and pressures.
I'd suggest going back to put some bump ups under the feet to raise that outdoor unit, here in the PNW we've run into a few where the runoff from the defrost cycle couldn't drain properly and wound up freezing and busting a hole in the bottom of the condenser coil.
Forget the channel locks and adjustable wrenches, slip a short piece of well-fitted steel pipe as a backing wrench over the cap of the service valve. No bending of the support brackets.
Yellow jacket flaring tool has deburr made in the flaring tool makes perfect flares. Nylock is a must on mini splits. Can you change the air handler to down flow on that brand?
so on start up in cool mode you simply open all indoor and outdoor valves and turn it on, let it run until it ramps up or is there any start up procedures with those SW buttons?
Kind of a miserable job, nice that you made it look professional. A few constructive thoughts to think about though. You should put a few drops pump oil on your flare cone and on the flare nut on the back side of the copper and the threads to stop friction binding. Use a wrench to back up the valves when tightening. If you are going to do a lot of these systems you may want to get an eccentric flare tool, they work much better. I didn’t see the trap on the evaporator condensate line and last I always sealed the line set hole into the building to keep out mice etc.
Why do they use those Philip screws or are they torx or square head can’t really tell from the video (what happened to 1/4” or 5/16 screw heads) lol nice job Curtis, seems overly complicated and excessive to me, I’ve installed Mitsubishi mini splits before way easier than this Gree unit…in my eyes 👀 oh and again “cc” please and thank you 🙏 One last comment, those use 18 gauge wire for communication? Or is it like a standard air conditioning system control wiring? Why isn’t the liquid line not insulated if it’s an inverter? I enjoy the long videos Curt
I just subscribed I am really impressed with your honesty and how modest you are your videos take me back and just how we 30years ago we're pretty ancient with most of our work how times have changed but I have to say I would cut those damn flares out and brazed in new ones can you? Thanks
I use rls for my flares. I didn’t think the yellow jacket torque wrench would fit the larger flare nut. Definitely not the 5 ton. I like to add 4x4 under the unit for snow and drainage. With the pad.
I'm wondering if there is any expectation from Gree that you use a specific kind of flaring tool. Some other brands do that. A little bit of suitable refrigeration oil might have helped those flares out as well as the Nylog did.
Why wasn’t there a filter dryer connected to the liquid line I looked through installation Manuel’s and pdf with component list for the condenser no filter drier in the cabinet along with all the sensors in the cabinet how does it clean the refrigerant of non condensible or such things that could be suspended in the refrigerant .
What was your reasoning for using the Gree inverter system vs "conventional"? I have a family install for my sister and I have considered am upflow system similar to yours or a Mitsubishi with individual 1way ceiling cassettes. Not sure what she wants at this point... For flaring, I prefer the eccentric flaring tools Craig at ACServiceTech has a good explanation. Don't feel bad about the failed flares...at least you didn't drop a battery drill 20 onto the suction line, crack the flare and loose all the refrigerant on a Saturday evening with shops closed for the next 2 days and no more R410a in the tank and it's pushing 110*.
I have had someone recently install a gree heat pump at my place. it sits on a stand. after it finishes heating up the house it purges water from the bottom. Is this normal for a heat pump?
Dear Sir, I have a Trane Resolute 4MXA2036A10NUA Indoor/4TXD2036A10NUA Outdoor which I understand is a Gree Flexx rebadge (unknown Gree Model). Mine comes with heatstrips. The indoor handler install manual is a bit scant with details. I should mention that in my Trane outdoor unit, the thermostat wiring panel has a "D" instead of a "W1" as in your install. 1) According to the Trane manual, when the Trane outdoor defrosts, it sends a 24 V defrost signal to the indoor to turn on the heat strips it seems (b/c the indoor is now in "cooling mode" during the outdoor defrost. Is this the same for the Gree Flexx? 2) Does the Gree heat strips turn on if the indoor air temperature and thermostat setpoint is very far apart? i.e., indoor setpoint at 21C and indoor air temp is
1) Yes 2) Unless you are in a defrost mode, the heat strips are controlled only by the thermostat. The thermostat decides when to switch to heat strips, either based on outside ambient temperature or if heat pump heat can't satisfy the heat call in a certain time.
Looks good. Why no trap on the drain pipe? The outdoor unit needs improvements on where the line set hooks up. Very poor design IMO where they were located and weak metal they were connected to.
Once you pressure test your fittings then open the coil valves to release the nitrogen in the coil. Then vacuum the system as normal. The charge is weighed in at .6 oz per foot over 25 feet. I live on the west coast and have done several of these systems. I really like them.
I'm glad you clarified. In the manual it says .3 oz over 25 feet but calculators show .6. I guess they mean .3 for the vapor and the liquid line distance.
Coil comes precharged so there good up to 31ft of lineset, if you use 7/8 suction then you have to weigh in no matter what the length, I can't remember how much per ft off hand ,
I’m probably going to be crucified for saying this but we’ve been using the rectorseal push in socket fittings for these flare fittings and have had great success. As for longevity it’s been about 3ish years but our call back rate has dropped tremendously on mini splits and inverters. May be worth a shot.
problem with this unit is fan indoor is only 1 speed lol. need to use 2 speed airhandler at least to get advantage of variable speed unit outdoor features. as far as flares you could buy flexible copper adapters already flanged on one side that are easy to flex into the unit.
My Mr cool universal which is the same unit, started up under 1 amp and slowly ramped up to 12amp. Never seen it higher than that. But I never checked it in the hottest part of summer.
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You need to put a back up wrench on the valve when torquing it down it makes a huge difference
100% correct
How are the flare fittings holding up after a year?
Ive installed about 12 of these ranging from 2 to 5 ton Flexx systems,They make for an all day install with new lineset but man they run super quiet and are extremely efficient.The customers seem to love them.
same, iv only done a few so far, im not a fan of the valves at ah. I found that by using the bit of N2o from the coil i can do a p/t on the lines and then vacuum after i purge it out. First day it took us 6 hours but with alote of trial and error. Second was longer as it was a hanger replacing a 20 year old rheem shorty with a massive 58 in by 25 monster gree. It was fun! This one took 8 hours. Still need bad for a couples of guys..
@@m.vasquez2640 first off im doing my first one but that's not Nitro in the coil, its refrigerant from what I understand, maybe i missed that but pretty sure its 410A in the coil. you opena nd release IDF and OD all 410a..
@@m.vasquez2640 NOTES:
1. Indoor Unit has a factory R-410a
holding charge as shown on data
plate. Liquid and Gas service valves
on Indoor Unit must remain in the
closed position while leak testing
both refrigerant lines with dry nitrogen
Installing the first one these next couple of days. Glad to hear a lot of positive response to it
For a Gree Flexx 4-5 ton unit, is it ok to reuse existing 7/8 suction line? The existing system is R410. I plan to clean 7/8 line before reusing it. Any concerns?
Adding a dab of vacuum pump oil to the flaring cone helps the flare form, I also like to put a bit of nylog on the back of the flare. I'm always skeptical about the torque wrench (never feels tight enough) but that's what the manual says 🤷♂. Nice installation in a rough location, will be interesting to see how the system holds up
I agree I used to use a dab of vacuum pump oil on all my flare fittings on mini splits
Yes a bit of pump oil makes a good difference in getting tight joints and no twisting of the copper tubing, also needs to use a second wrench to back up the fitting. I also do not see a trap in the Evap Condensate line, not a good thing to not have.
I agree the torque spec for the suction does seem a bit on the loose side but the nylog and a good flare will get it,I sometimes have to do a flare twice but Ill get it
Thank you for sharing the details of this install! I was able to install this system (36kBTU) as DIY, and your video really helped me out with a lot of steps. Super quiet when cooling and heating!
The Navac battery flare tool works great my new boss always had leaks on his mini split I told him to buy 2 of them one for him and one for me and he hasn't had problems with flares ever since. They're a great knuckle saver 😆 🤣
Lmao 19:30 when the helper just grabs something to seem helpful. We’ve all been there lol
When you do your flares use the new type off swivel flaring tool and if you hold the conection with a wrench at the above cap it holdes it tighter. If you have a leak don't reflare, just loosen and re tighten 5 lbs more.
Workes every time
When I did mine and a friends in Florida I used the nylog like everyone has said it's a must. I used 2 wrenches when tightening the flares like others have said and I did it by feel I hardly ever use torque wrenches. I put the nylog on the threads, front of flare, back of flare and everywhere else to be safe. I was using the factory flares so that helped. One thing I did and I think you did was I added a surge protector and even put in a separate ground rod for it at the condenser unit. The reason I did that was their had been an electrical storm and the office had a mini-split system unit and the AC tech told me it had fried the computer board in the condenser unit. I thought if theirs a surge it will go toward the condenser unit and hopefully the surge protector will direct the surge straight to ground before reaching the condenser unit. The surge that damaged the office condenser unit board was slightly unusual since everyone has underground electric. Great Video thanks for sharing all you do!!!!
you shouldnt put nylog on threads, it changes the torque because it lubricates the threads and makes it very easy to over tighten.
@@justinrichard4190 nylog always changes torque no matter where applied it reduces torque needed.
Good to see that you put one in your own house too so you can better understand the technology…I did the same with the Bosch system I have about 5 years ago…I’ve had to replace the inverter board once sines I’ve had it so far…
Good job Curtis, you should next time use a backing wrench on the flared fittings, either channel locks or pipe wrench so the fittings don't bend the pipes or plate that holds it, good work regardlesss.
I was gonna say the same thing. I find it helpful. Love the videos Curtis
I hate that yellow jacket flare tool. I used it for a short time and had some leaks with it. It’s now resting under the work bench in the back of the shop. I purchased a jb minisplit flaring tool and it’s awesome. That combined with nylog No more leaks.
Best tool for ac flare nuts is an eccentric with a flare cone that floats to keep from having scored flares and off center flares You can hook your drill to it or use a rachet
I used the Rigid with the eccentric cone with torque release when the flare was done. Not cheap but no good A/C tools are, Makes a big difference and Never had leaking joints.
Thanks for sharing. Just installed one in a new build. Haven't yet fired it up yet. I purchased the prefabricated flare ends from my distributor so that part was OK. Soon to find out if it holds a vacuum. I'm sure you have noticed that the air handlers are heavy. The heat strips and controls could be simplified. A little to busy in that area. Manufacturer could also incorporate knockouts for the electrical. Outdoor service panel could also be easier to remove. just my 2 cents.
Great video like normal. A few recommendations I would make are getting a orbital flare tool made for 410a systems. Yellow jacket makes a great one. Do not use your flare nut to pull the copper to the unit. Push and hold the copper flare against the unit and then tighten the nut. Pulling the copper with the nut can pull your flare out of shape. Lastly like others mentioned, use a back up wrench.
Hilmar brand orbital flare tool is the best I’ve ever used… never had a single bad flare from that tool if you Rheem the pipe good
When it had its first weird problem you will have to call the engineers for help, do you gree, lol, nice install, hopefully your supplier keeps parts when you need them
On those flares, a couple things I do as GREE trained me. Definitely debar and apply a drop of POE oil to the flare cone. Additionally, when torque the lines, they recommend using a second wrench around the king valve cap.
I’ll be sure to do that next time
FYI I use backup wrench on the outside valves when ever I am tighten the flare fittings to keep the metal plate from bending and also I have a flare tool with a clutch that works real good for me
I think we all have been there at some point, just like you and nylog is a must!
You should find a way to use a 2nd wrench to hold back on the flair connections, not warp 'em out and bend um back. Your torque's will be off because of that.
That’s right..
@UCiz21FXLOV65NTgiUfJsxTg chanel lock on the king valve would be worth a try. Just a thought. I caught hell for.putting nylon on the face of the flair but never had a problem. Should put a dot of it behind the nut also and spin it around. They can be a pain like no other. Good job.
Looked great. Is there a charging mode on those systems to check super heat and sub cooling? Or do you just run the stat down a good bit to make system think there’s a high demand?
@@moorescomfortsystemsheatin6068 I do believe there’s a charging mode. Service manual is 120 pages, and I’ve used it more like a reference book than reading it.
Back up wrench 🔧 Is great
That was a great teaching video! I had never heard of Nylog before
Thanks
If you have flare issues I recommend an orbiting flare tool and a gauge block. Black Maxx makes a good set that includes everything.
I second this, I use the Hilmor variant and its absolutely fantastic.
Agreed. I got the hilmore as well
I like the hilmor orbital flaring tool. It’s effortless and doesn’t skin up your knuckles. Also you’ve gotta use a second wrench to hold the service valves when torquing down. Sorry you went through so much trouble with this install.
Hilmor is the bees knees
III have the same unit coming with the Mr. Cool name. I'm glad I found your video. You need to use some backup wrenches.
I was fixing to install 1 of these but now I'm having 2t thoughts thanks for making this video
What led you to try out the Gree equipment on this particular job, instead of your usual product line?
Great learning video/ new equipment a learning experience/ Good thing we have someone to Thank. Bub
Great video, nice Equiment, we all been there time to time.. live and learn…
Use your caps that covers your service valve stems for your second wrench counter force and a light coating of polyester oil. Set your torque values on the high end for each line set connection.
Does the dip switches on the mr cool universal work the same way as the gree flex? My cool has 3 fan speed settings but can't figure out how to change them. On the gree website it says to flip the dip switches certain ways. They look like the same units so I'm guessing gree makes mr cool.
Finally. Thanks for posting. Good job Curtis!!
What’s the availability for parts for GREE and there warranty? More components for higher probability of failing I’d hope there would be decent stock or lead times or your gonna have a pissed off customer. I’m going to be installing a 5 ton 19 seer York few weeks, I’m not to fond on high seer equipment but that’s what was determined.
Hey Curtis again super helpful video and again my unit is a Mr cool universal but the exact same unit which is a rebadged gree flex I just checked my condenser after watching this video 6 months ago after I ordered my mr cool universal.
Quick question on your gree flex air handler or there additional Allan keys valves or hex key valves where you need to open them to release additional refrigerent from the air handler, the Mr cool universals have them like mine where you have to unscrew the covers just like the condenser and open the valves on the air handler. To release the refrigerent on the low and high side on the air handler itself as well as the condenser.
I know you mentioned most units don't have them but considering the Mr cool universals are pretty much exactly the same with mr cool universals
Bieng rebadged gree flexes just curios if your gree flex air handler also had those same exact valves. On the air handler where you hook up the high and low side.
And pardon me I a may be using the incorrect terms but I am using the terms that car mechanics use with high and low side. For refrigerent lines and pressures.
That great job!! Also next time try the Flaretite Seals. Is going to help to seal very good.
I'd suggest going back to put some bump ups under the feet to raise that outdoor unit, here in the PNW we've run into a few where the runoff from the defrost cycle couldn't drain properly and wound up freezing and busting a hole in the bottom of the condenser coil.
Thanks for sharing your experience with this brand...
I had the impression that the machine is too loud .. am i right ?
Thks.
I have that same torque wrench, a rapid beep is letting you know your getting close. a solid beep is when you stop. you may have under torqued those.
Forget the channel locks and adjustable wrenches, slip a short piece of well-fitted steel pipe as a backing wrench over the cap of the service valve.
No bending of the support brackets.
Yellow jacket flaring tool has deburr made in the flaring tool makes perfect flares. Nylock is a must on mini splits. Can you change the air handler to down flow on that brand?
What is it with you using adjustable wrenches backward?
Guess it’s worth setting up some flare practice and practicing different techniques and putting pressure to them to see..
Use nylog sparingly, it can stop up small openings and orfice in mini split units
I’d love to see you install a MrCool with pre-evacuated lines that are pre-charged with refrigerant
Why
MrCool units are junk
@@clintgray1623 They are just rebadged Gree. Mr Cool Universal == Gree Flexx
Plenty of videos about those online
Put the nylog on the back of the flare. Helps the nut slide for torquing.
I may have a 3 ton GREE Flex electric furnace and heat pump installed. Is this considered a good unit?
Any comments would be appreciated.
so on start up in cool mode you simply open all indoor and outdoor valves and turn it on, let it run until it ramps up or is there any start up procedures with those SW buttons?
I highly recommend Rigid flaring tools. And too bad there wasn't an easy way to use a backup wrench on those valves.
You put your backup wrench perpendicular on the service cap.
Well I just ordered mine. Wallets light but hope my bills are as well this year.
That was a two men job , but u did most of it by yourself.
Great job. ✌
What a pain. good job sticking with it!
Kind of a miserable job, nice that you made it look professional. A few constructive thoughts to think about though. You should put a few drops pump oil on your flare cone and on the flare nut on the back side of the copper and the threads to stop friction binding. Use a wrench to back up the valves when tightening. If you are going to do a lot of these systems you may want to get an eccentric flare tool, they work much better. I didn’t see the trap on the evaporator condensate line and last I always sealed the line set hole into the building to keep out mice etc.
I cut off any factory flares and teflare…I know it’s good when it just misses the threads in the nut…when I don’t forget to put the nut on…👍🏻🤣
You did a great job!
Get the flaring tips for your drill and use a hold back on valves
Why do they use those Philip screws or are they torx or square head can’t really tell from the video (what happened to 1/4” or 5/16 screw heads) lol nice job Curtis, seems overly complicated and excessive to me, I’ve installed Mitsubishi mini splits before way easier than this Gree unit…in my eyes 👀 oh and again “cc” please and thank you 🙏 One last comment, those use 18 gauge wire for communication? Or is it like a standard air conditioning system control wiring? Why isn’t the liquid line not insulated if it’s an inverter? I enjoy the long videos Curt
It’s Phillips . Yeh, I was wishing they were at least 1/4” screws
hello, great video, question : isnt the gree flexx aso a heat pump? so the electric strips are for backup ?
Going to be great as long as it never breaks. Whenever I see Gree I cringe for parts availability and lead times if you can get them.
I just subscribed I am really impressed with your honesty and how modest you are your videos take me back and just how we 30years ago we're pretty ancient with most of our work how times have changed but I have to say I would cut those damn flares out and brazed in new ones can you? Thanks
I use rls for my flares.
I didn’t think the yellow jacket torque wrench would fit the larger flare nut. Definitely not the 5 ton.
I like to add 4x4 under the unit for snow and drainage.
With the pad.
A couple drops of oil on the flares before torqueing helps alot.
I'm wondering if there is any expectation from Gree that you use a specific kind of flaring tool. Some other brands do that. A little bit of suitable refrigeration oil might have helped those flares out as well as the Nylog did.
Why wasn’t there a filter dryer connected to the liquid line I looked through installation Manuel’s and pdf with component list for the condenser no filter drier in the cabinet along with all the sensors in the cabinet how does it clean the refrigerant of non condensible or such things that could be suspended in the refrigerant .
What was your reasoning for using the Gree inverter system vs "conventional"? I have a family install for my sister and I have considered am upflow system similar to yours or a Mitsubishi with individual 1way ceiling cassettes. Not sure what she wants at this point... For flaring, I prefer the eccentric flaring tools Craig at ACServiceTech has a good explanation. Don't feel bad about the failed flares...at least you didn't drop a battery drill 20 onto the suction line, crack the flare and loose all the refrigerant on a Saturday evening with shops closed for the next 2 days and no more R410a in the tank and it's pushing 110*.
Do those condensers have filter driers pre installed ?
I have had someone recently install a gree heat pump at my place. it sits on a stand. after it finishes heating up the house it purges water from the bottom. Is this normal for a heat pump?
NEW SUB 😊😊 MAKE YOUR VIDS LONGER you are awesome HVAC MASTER !!
Hey is L1 The hot wire or neutral?? My wire diagram looks like the hot is L1 but you have white there??
i believe you are supposed to back up the flare connections
Nice install
I always used to put dab of oil on flare neck u definitely need back up wrench or bar. Loose metal is absorbing tourqe
Small dab of Nylog on the BACK of the flare. Stops the copper from binding on the nut.
Dear Sir, I have a Trane Resolute 4MXA2036A10NUA Indoor/4TXD2036A10NUA Outdoor which I understand is a Gree Flexx rebadge (unknown Gree Model). Mine comes with heatstrips. The indoor handler install manual is a bit scant with details. I should mention that in my Trane outdoor unit, the thermostat wiring panel has a "D" instead of a "W1" as in your install.
1) According to the Trane manual, when the Trane outdoor defrosts, it sends a 24 V defrost signal to the indoor to turn on the heat strips it seems (b/c the indoor is now in "cooling mode" during the outdoor defrost. Is this the same for the Gree Flexx?
2) Does the Gree heat strips turn on if the indoor air temperature and thermostat setpoint is very far apart? i.e., indoor setpoint at 21C and indoor air temp is
1) Yes
2) Unless you are in a defrost mode, the heat strips are controlled only by the thermostat. The thermostat decides when to switch to heat strips, either based on outside ambient temperature or if heat pump heat can't satisfy the heat call in a certain time.
Nice video. Do you recommend this Gree ducted heat pump.
Looks good. Why no trap on the drain pipe? The outdoor unit needs improvements on where the line set hooks up. Very poor design IMO where they were located and weak metal they were connected to.
great job.
Sure you're not supposed to double flare them like the brake lines on a car so it can handle the pressure?
I wonder how you keep from throwing a fit sometimes! Great content, thanks
I didn't know we have to pull vacuum in both lines how did u find that out ? and i thought it was nitrogen inside the e coil on the indoor unite
Use Nylog next time on those flare fittings makes a big difference. Lol commented before you went to the truck to get it. No p trap?
Line dips on the way out
Put a wrench on the service valve as the back up/support!!!!
Good videos dude. Hold back wrench bro!
Your flare isn't deep enough. Set your copper to the stopper on the flaring tool
Do you have a version on voltage wiring
Nylog on the cone before flaring. Otherwise u get scratches. Then a tiny bit on the flare before torquing. Must not do many mini splits
You’re right. I don’t do many mini-splits
Once you pressure test your fittings then open the coil valves to release the nitrogen in the coil. Then vacuum the system as normal. The charge is weighed in at .6 oz per foot over 25 feet. I live on the west coast and have done several of these systems. I really like them.
I'm glad you clarified. In the manual it says .3 oz over 25 feet but calculators show .6. I guess they mean .3 for the vapor and the liquid line distance.
The coil comes pre charged
Coil comes precharged so there good up to 31ft of lineset, if you use 7/8 suction then you have to weigh in no matter what the length, I can't remember how much per ft off hand ,
Thank you for sharing. I’m surprised they have a copper finished evaporate coil.
Any reason why you chose this system instead of A regular central air 20 seer unit?
Scary, HVAC guy?
Nice job.
Many thanks for your effort, great installation video 👍👍👍
Are you trying to read a super heat and sub cooling?
What kind of energy savings have you had?
What size air filter fits in the stock slot below the air handler?
I’m probably going to be crucified for saying this but we’ve been using the rectorseal push in socket fittings for these flare fittings and have had great success. As for longevity it’s been about 3ish years but our call back rate has dropped tremendously on mini splits and inverters. May be worth a shot.
My supply house sells flared fittings with a 6 inch stub that can be brazed on line set.
@@joep4143 Brazing will void a warranty on some brands. Just debur and use vac pump oil when flaring, once ya get used to it, it will be a breeze.
Nice work
Man, after all the rusty carcasses, isn’t it a joy to work on a shiny new Deathstar or Warp Nacelle??
problem with this unit is fan indoor is only 1 speed lol. need to use 2 speed airhandler at least to get advantage of variable speed unit outdoor features.
as far as flares you could buy flexible copper adapters already flanged on one side that are easy to flex into the unit.
Does the heat pump have switches that need to be adjusted for tonnage too? or just the fan coil
Yes
Nice job. Curious to see how long the gree will hold up. what kind of amps was the condenser drawing?
2-5 when I was with it.
2-5 or 25A ? I highly doubt a 3 ton 20 SEER unit will be less than 20 amps. 2 -3A from the Condenser fan motor maybe.
@@wirefeed3419 go many condenser fans have you amp drawed? Especially on a unit like this?
My Mr cool universal which is the same unit, started up under 1 amp and slowly ramped up to 12amp. Never seen it higher than that. But I never checked it in the hottest part of summer.
I have been listening to your Awesome videos for a while now and they are great. Is there a way too get louder audio? Thank you and God bless.
I had that heat strip molex connector burn up on me....what a nightmare to get the tec support to help me hard wire them together properly...