Hehehe thank you brother!!!! You just unleashed some crazyness for me and my brother building a pair of x2s into Yamaha 760s fighting a budget exhaust! So we are gonna chop upa 900 pipe like you did. And hopefully make that work, thinking thatll be our route
I can't say for sure that no one has done this... but I've never seen photos, video or read about it. I've seen lots of posts of people talking about all sorts of exhaust mods, but never this. It is a lot of work, and it may seem obvious once it has been done, but there was always the possibility that this just wouldn't have worked at all. I know people have notched them, and relocated the stinger, machined the flanges... 🤷♂️
"drying the pipe out" doesn't mean there is no water in those water jackets, only the inside that the exhaust touches is what is dried out, you are plugging water injectors, not flow into and out of the pipe.
Yes, I’m aware of this. The jacket was removed to reduce the size, to allow it to fit in the X2, and also because I have an obsession with reducing weight.
@@TheStephenspann27 I was quite concerned about this when I performed the mod, and thought that I might need to wrap it or change the plan altogether. To combat the heat, I have a water injection system that injects into the chamber itself as well as into the stinger. The water that is injected into the pipe uses a flow control valve that does not allow any water to flow at low rpm (low pump pressure) so that the chamber doesn't fill up, but then allows water to inject when the engine is under laad (high pump pressure), It is adjustable, and I have been able to set it so that when I take it apart, there is usually about 1/3 to 1 cup of water in the chamber. It gets hot, but not hot enough to sizzle water. I have run it this way for a few years now and it has never caused any issues. (that I'm aware of) The engine is very strong and the pipe has never burnt anything.
Definitely interested in how it works without the water jacket. This pipe mod might be just what people need to make 1100 swapping 650sx attainable for the masses. This is good stuff. I am already wanting to do this on the SeaRat 😂👍
I can't wait to test it. I have a feeling that it will run hotter than the 650 because it's almost twice the engine size and one more cylinder firing into it. I'm totally prepared to install a water injector into the elbow similar to what the 650s have... but I may test it this way to see just how hot it gets. I could wrap it, or if I hit the lottery, I could ceramic coat it, lol. I know to a lot of people 6 lbs doesn't seem like a lot, but when you consider removing that much weight from just one part, that alone is worth doing this mod, and the extra clearance that it gives you is over half lf an inch all around. I'd love to see someone else do this... now that I've done it and broken mine, it should be less scary and quicker for others. You just have to accept that you're going to cut it off in small pieces. I should have mentioned that some mods will have to be done to the elbow as well ... that will be obvious as soon as you try to mount it and see that the elbow will just dump water into the hull if you don't, haha.
Thanks for the comment paul. I've already removed the water jacket and I'm willing to experiment lots to come up with an ideal solution. There are a lot of people running these OEM pipes dry on 1100s, and they don't have any issue as long as they inject water at the stinger. The jacket with air in it would have minimal cooling effect, so I'm hopeful that I won't need do anything more. However, I am expecting to have to cool it down some to keep the under hood temps down. If that is the case, I will first try injecting water into the elbow as may other skis use this method and it works well. The Coffman's exhaust on my X2 does this and I can run it wide open on a speed run and then hold my hand on the cone without burning my hand. I can also inject some water directly into the chabre if necessary, so heat wrap will be a last resort or another experiment, but not my first choice.
Those bolt holes are for swapping the engine into a ski you care about! Weight distribution? It will handle better no matter what. I Have thought about cutting the water jacket off on one of those pipes, but I always thought that nobody did it because the pipe must not be waterjacketed around the area you need narrower. How much narrower does that make the pipe? That is really cool. I'm going to copy you whenever I build my silver 1100. Everybody it's called the 1100 pipe Arseneault mod. I wonder if that would make the 1100 fit in my 2013 superjet? I think you only need the water squirt in the elbow to keep the rubber coupler (you don't have on a 1100) from melting. I think the stock engine location would work best overall. I think the x2 is balanced pretty good stock front to rear, but I think a +40 lb engine would improve the turning. It still will slide out the same in the rear, but the front will feel more anchored down. I feel like other kawasakis like the 650sx and 750sx would benefit from having the engines pushed forward about 3". It seems like with a lot of this stuff you end up having to compromise between making something perfect and making something makeable.
Haha... Exactly. They were like. "we are putting this in these fat ass hulls, but ya know, let's be nice and make some holes that line up with a bed plate of something that matters" Yeah... I was kinda concerned that this might not work at all, or that I'd just totally trash the pipe, but I just went for it. It's really hard to judge how much narrower it makes it where it really matters, but I think it makes it smaller about a half an inch all the way around the pipe. I mostly did it for weight, haha. I would have already found out if it fit by cutting out the rear exhaust area, but I have a line on an X2 hull that I may be getting from a viewer (a good deal)... it's already chopped up some, so I don't want to cut mine yet. That and I received stuff to start boring my cylinders, so I have to get started on that. You should totally do this. It's kinda time consuming, but with a few cut off discs and a few hours you get lots of free space and loose some weight in the process. You will obviously have to seal the elbow in some way as there are holes form the chamber to the elbow.
@@JoelArseneaultRUclips Oh man that's great that your getting another x2! If it's already cut up then no fear cutting it up more! Yeah now that you've done that to the pipe I cant believe you are the only person on the internet to do it. I got my cutter wheel and sander wheels ready!
@@Jacobskibros I'm just in the middle of responding to the guy who's selling me the X2(hull) Seems like it's almost official now. He is on the West coast of Canada, so it's a 11 hour drive, non stop ... one way. That means I'll be getting up early, driving and then maybe sleeping in my truck on the way back, haha. From here on out, the Jacket Delete shall be called the J-Spec. That sounds better than Arseneault Mod... The 1100 J-Spec Jacket Delete.
holy crap, thats good stuff! see if you have that clearance now, maybe even mill the manifold and you'll be good to go! 5 pounds.... thats a ton, hey question, how hot do you think that chamber gets? i ask because im thinking of maybe making a carbon chamber thats jacketed as well, i just need to find a high temp resin, i work with carbon everyday, making the pipe would be easy, finding a good resin is not. id even send it to you to test out.
Thanks Zack !! I'm sure I have clearance now, but I have to figure out what I'm going to do about my stinger, as it hits at the front of the foot well. I might be getting another hull (for the 1100) so I'm holding off on cutting mine up. There is a Carbon Fibre X2 build on PWC Today ... ktm640duke. He built an entire X2 from carbon fibre... hull, tank and yes pipe. Apparently "normal" resin can handle the heat no problem as long as you use a little water injection on the inside. The X2 feeds water into the elbow, and I think that's a smart way to go about doing it. He gets asked about what resin he uses and I forget what he says, but I do remember him saying that he has built a few and never had an issue. I would 100% be down for testing a CF chambre ... that would be cool. I was thinking of eventually building one, but I have a total of ZERO hours of experience with CF and very little with regular glass, haha. My biggest obstacle is not wanting to invest the time and money into another project that has a high probability of failure and doesn't need to be done. Here is the link to the PWC today thread. www.pwctoday.com/showthread.php?t=478946&page=46
Hehehe thank you brother!!!! You just unleashed some crazyness for me and my brother building a pair of x2s into Yamaha 760s fighting a budget exhaust! So we are gonna chop upa 900 pipe like you did. And hopefully make that work, thinking thatll be our route
I'm surprised more people have not tried this. great video
I can't say for sure that no one has done this... but I've never seen photos, video or read about it. I've seen lots of posts of people talking about all sorts of exhaust mods, but never this.
It is a lot of work, and it may seem obvious once it has been done, but there was always the possibility that this just wouldn't have worked at all. I know people have notched them, and relocated the stinger, machined the flanges... 🤷♂️
"drying the pipe out" doesn't mean there is no water in those water jackets, only the inside that the exhaust touches is what is dried out, you are plugging water injectors, not flow into and out of the pipe.
Yes, I’m aware of this. The jacket was removed to reduce the size, to allow it to fit in the X2, and also because I have an obsession with reducing weight.
@@JoelArseneaultRUclips but wouldn’t it be too hot for the inside of the hull with no water jacket ?
@@TheStephenspann27 I was quite concerned about this when I performed the mod, and thought that I might need to wrap it or change the plan altogether. To combat the heat, I have a water injection system that injects into the chamber itself as well as into the stinger.
The water that is injected into the pipe uses a flow control valve that does not allow any water to flow at low rpm (low pump pressure) so that the chamber doesn't fill up, but then allows water to inject when the engine is under laad (high pump pressure), It is adjustable, and I have been able to set it so that when I take it apart, there is usually about 1/3 to 1 cup of water in the chamber.
It gets hot, but not hot enough to sizzle water. I have run it this way for a few years now and it has never caused any issues. (that I'm aware of) The engine is very strong and the pipe has never burnt anything.
This is going to be awesome.
I think so, but I'm just a little bias 😂
Definitely interested in how it works without the water jacket. This pipe mod might be just what people need to make 1100 swapping 650sx attainable for the masses. This is good stuff. I am already wanting to do this on the SeaRat 😂👍
I can't wait to test it. I have a feeling that it will run hotter than the 650 because it's almost twice the engine size and one more cylinder firing into it. I'm totally prepared to install a water injector into the elbow similar to what the 650s have... but I may test it this way to see just how hot it gets.
I could wrap it, or if I hit the lottery, I could ceramic coat it, lol. I know to a lot of people 6 lbs doesn't seem like a lot, but when you consider removing that much weight from just one part, that alone is worth doing this mod, and the extra clearance that it gives you is over half lf an inch all around.
I'd love to see someone else do this... now that I've done it and broken mine, it should be less scary and quicker for others. You just have to accept that you're going to cut it off in small pieces. I should have mentioned that some mods will have to be done to the elbow as well ... that will be obvious as soon as you try to mount it and see that the elbow will just dump water into the hull if you don't, haha.
Good work, I have had not so good luck with heat wrap. I would keep upper expansion chamber jacketed.
Good luck .
Thanks for the comment paul. I've already removed the water jacket and I'm willing to experiment lots to come up with an ideal solution.
There are a lot of people running these OEM pipes dry on 1100s, and they don't have any issue as long as they inject water at the stinger. The jacket with air in it would have minimal cooling effect, so I'm hopeful that I won't need do anything more.
However, I am expecting to have to cool it down some to keep the under hood temps down. If that is the case, I will first try injecting water into the elbow as may other skis use this method and it works well. The Coffman's exhaust on my X2 does this and I can run it wide open on a speed run and then hold my hand on the cone without burning my hand.
I can also inject some water directly into the chabre if necessary, so heat wrap will be a last resort or another experiment, but not my first choice.
Sounds like you got it.
I’ll keep watching ! Great job and keep up the good work.
@@user-ju3ns2cz1u Thanks Paul. I will figure it out as I go :)
That’s my favorite way!
@@JoelArseneaultRUclips I forgot to ask, how thick was the jacket? The distance from the now exterior to the old exterior. keep it up man.
Those bolt holes are for swapping the engine into a ski you care about! Weight distribution? It will handle better no matter what.
I Have thought about cutting the water jacket off on one of those pipes, but I always thought that nobody did it because the pipe must not be waterjacketed around the area you need narrower. How much narrower does that make the pipe? That is really cool. I'm going to copy you whenever I build my silver 1100. Everybody it's called the 1100 pipe Arseneault mod. I wonder if that would make the 1100 fit in my 2013 superjet? I think you only need the water squirt in the elbow to keep the rubber coupler (you don't have on a 1100) from melting.
I think the stock engine location would work best overall. I think the x2 is balanced pretty good stock front to rear, but I think a +40 lb engine would improve the turning. It still will slide out the same in the rear, but the front will feel more anchored down. I feel like other kawasakis like the 650sx and 750sx would benefit from having the engines pushed forward about 3". It seems like with a lot of this stuff you end up having to compromise between making something perfect and making something makeable.
Haha... Exactly. They were like. "we are putting this in these fat ass hulls, but ya know, let's be nice and make some holes that line up with a bed plate of something that matters"
Yeah... I was kinda concerned that this might not work at all, or that I'd just totally trash the pipe, but I just went for it. It's really hard to judge how much narrower it makes it where it really matters, but I think it makes it smaller about a half an inch all the way around the pipe. I mostly did it for weight, haha.
I would have already found out if it fit by cutting out the rear exhaust area, but I have a line on an X2 hull that I may be getting from a viewer (a good deal)... it's already chopped up some, so I don't want to cut mine yet. That and I received stuff to start boring my cylinders, so I have to get started on that.
You should totally do this. It's kinda time consuming, but with a few cut off discs and a few hours you get lots of free space and loose some weight in the process. You will obviously have to seal the elbow in some way as there are holes form the chamber to the elbow.
@@JoelArseneaultRUclips Oh man that's great that your getting another x2! If it's already cut up then no fear cutting it up more!
Yeah now that you've done that to the pipe I cant believe you are the only person on the internet to do it. I got my cutter wheel and sander wheels ready!
@@Jacobskibros I'm just in the middle of responding to the guy who's selling me the X2(hull) Seems like it's almost official now. He is on the West coast of Canada, so it's a 11 hour drive, non stop ... one way. That means I'll be getting up early, driving and then maybe sleeping in my truck on the way back, haha.
From here on out, the Jacket Delete shall be called the J-Spec. That sounds better than Arseneault Mod... The 1100 J-Spec Jacket Delete.
He’s a dangerous man lol
I agree, but I'm not sure what you are referring to, haha.
holy crap, thats good stuff! see if you have that clearance now, maybe even mill the manifold and you'll be good to go! 5 pounds.... thats a ton, hey question, how hot do you think that chamber gets? i ask because im thinking of maybe making a carbon chamber thats jacketed as well, i just need to find a high temp resin, i work with carbon everyday, making the pipe would be easy, finding a good resin is not. id even send it to you to test out.
Thanks Zack !! I'm sure I have clearance now, but I have to figure out what I'm going to do about my stinger, as it hits at the front of the foot well. I might be getting another hull (for the 1100) so I'm holding off on cutting mine up.
There is a Carbon Fibre X2 build on PWC Today ... ktm640duke. He built an entire X2 from carbon fibre... hull, tank and yes pipe. Apparently "normal" resin can handle the heat no problem as long as you use a little water injection on the inside. The X2 feeds water into the elbow, and I think that's a smart way to go about doing it. He gets asked about what resin he uses and I forget what he says, but I do remember him saying that he has built a few and never had an issue.
I would 100% be down for testing a CF chambre ... that would be cool. I was thinking of eventually building one, but I have a total of ZERO hours of experience with CF and very little with regular glass, haha. My biggest obstacle is not wanting to invest the time and money into another project that has a high probability of failure and doesn't need to be done.
Here is the link to the PWC today thread.
www.pwctoday.com/showthread.php?t=478946&page=46
Let it rip!!!
Eventually, it will rip....or RIP (rest in peices)
Maybe needs new batt
Sorry, I'm not sure what you are talking about.