According to the transportation laws in the US and Canada, the minimum length of a vessel that is authorized to navigate at more than 1 mile from any coast line is 4 meters (13 feet). The vessel must also be bridged and have front and back sealed compartments that can keep the boat horizontally afloat even if the cockpit is full of water. "Afloat" means that the cockpit opening always stays out of the water when the boat is turned upright. So, this is mandatory only if you are going to be kayaking at more than 1 mile away from the coast. If you plan on staying close (< 1 mile) from the shore, there is no minimum according to the laws, any recreational kayak is legal in this condition. However, the paddler should always choose the appropriate type of boat to stay SAFE. Always evaluate the risks of the waves, wind, tide, air and water temperature, presence of exit point, etc.
I'd rally *love* to see cite to back that up, but I won't hold my breath. 4 meters is the international rule for minimum length for kayak slalom racing, and the reason that at one time just about all whitewater kayaks were 4 meters instead of the roughly 2 meters that's extremely common today. If there's any USCG regulation about minimum lengths they're doing a really bad job of making that information available. It would obviously be a bad idea, but as near as I can tell it's perfectly legal to paddle out to the US territorial limit in an 8' inflatable raft from Walmart.
@@suedenim9208 Thank you for the reply and the challenge to cite the law. In my original comment, I was actually citing a document from a sea kayak certification I did a couple of years ago here in Canada. Sorry for the length of this reply, navigating through and understanding the laws and standards of two countries is not simple. I took a look at the Canadian law governing kayaks: "Small Vessel Regulations (SOR/2010-91)". Kayaks fall into the category "Human-Powered Pleasure Craft". Article 715 says "The design of the hull of a pleasure craft that is not more than 6 m in length shall conform to the construction standards for buoyancy, flotation and stability.", which refers to a standard named "Construction Standards for Small Vessels (2010) - TP 1332 E". In the USA, the construction standards for pleasure or recreational crafts seems to be written by "The American Boat & Yacht Council". The USCG (US Coast Guard) seems to only regulate the safety equipment of the boat and its users and not the design/construction of the boat itself. Kayaks are never specifically named in any of the standards or laws in both countries. In short, and I will give you the credit on this one, none of the standards prescribe a minimum length. However, the standards say that based on the gross weight of the vessel, dry and submerged (including passengers and cargo), it must be buoyant. Then there is a bunch of mathematical formulas to calculate the buoyancy. Added to that, the angle at which the boat will naturally rest after being submerged is prescribed (close to horizontal). Moreover, the canadian standard TP 1332 E says at Section 3.2, article 713(3): "The materials and equipment used in the construction, manufacture or rebuilding of a vessel shall be suited to the operating and environmental conditions that the vessel may encounter.". There is nothing more specific. What I understand is that any boat manufacturer has to engineer their vessel in the way they intend it to be used and communicate the intended use to the customer. You know the small print document "Safety and compliance notice" that nobody reads... For starters, I think that just by putting the word "Sea" in "Sea Kayak" when describing their boat is already a commitment from the manufacturer on the intended use. I don't think that navigating in open waters is cited anywhere as an intended use in the safety documentation of a 20$ inflatable raft sold at Walmart. ;-) From what I see on the market, there seems to be a minimum length below which the manufacturers are still unable to design a kayak that would meet the buoyancy, flotation and stability requirements of the standards while leaving enough room to carry some cargo. And that length seems to be around 13 ft. I have not yet seen a sea kayak on the market that was below 13 ft in length. Below that length, the watertight compartments at the front and back would probably not have a big enough air volume to ensure the proper flotability/buoyancy. Theorically, a 10 feet kayak with a stern watertight hatch and a properly installed floatation bag at the bow can be compliant to the regulations, but that risk of assembling the two together is taken by the user, not the boat manufacturer. If something would happen and the user be arrested and charged of violating the law, it would be up to them to prove to a judge that their boat was seaworthy. The document I was citing at the beginning was probably written to be simple to read and understand. I conclude that the certification authority decided to simply say that the minimum length is 13 feet/4 meters based on the same observations, not an actual quote of the laws. Unfortunately many of the documents for the USA had a paywall in front of them. So, I have mostly looked into the Canadian documents that are free to access. I believe that the US standards are very similar to their canadian counterpart, both our countries having a lot of commercial affinities and border common bodies of water. Also, Canada being a small market compared to the USA, boat manufacturers usually make sure to comply to both standards. Thank you for the challenge, that was fun to research. Happy kayaking!
@@viaujoc Thanks for the thorough reply. I think that 14' is a sensible (though somewhat arbitrary, and not as easy for those using metric) minimum for going out into open water, but your post was the first time I ever saw anything suggesting there was any restriction other than good judgement. We've got an awful lot of laws designed to protect us from ourselves, but we've also got a great deal of liberty to hurt or kill ourselves by legally doing something stupid. I said I wouldn't hold my breath because I'd have been extremely surprised if anyone could actually find an applicable US regulation even with an exhaustive search. As for length and buoyancy, the vast majority of whitewater kayaks are less than 8' long (many are under 6'). If they come with any integral flotation beyond the minor buoyancy of the materials it's in the form of a foam bulkhead that's primarily intended to prevent deck collapse, and/or a foam footrest. Most whitewater paddlers are sensible enough to put float bags in the back because they expect to be rescuing boats that have filled with water, but a fair number aren't that clever. As near as I can tell the only restrictions on short boats are the practical issues of balance (at least 2' or so behind your ass) and getting your legs inside. The idea of intended use brings up an interesting point in the event somebody has a mishap and wants to sue after they have a mishap while limiting themselves to a use the manufacturer says is acceptable. Marketing for a lot of short recreational boats says they're suitable for "calm coastal waters" or something similar, though maybe they come with an owner's manual that offers more detail. "Calm" offers a lot of wiggle room, but under the US Code of Federal Regulations (which I suspect would be the applicable law) "coastal waters" extend well beyond a distance that even serious sea kayakers commonly venture. While such things might influence the outcome of a lawsuit there's no US rule I'm aware of that requires non-commercial operators to follow manufacturer's usage recommendations, or to limit where you take a boat in the absence of a prohibition or closure based on some other reason.
I’ve got a Delta 12.10 which is ... well 12.10. It’s in the “light touring” category specifically but still very much a sea kayak. I know from personal experience and I love it. Despite not being 14ft it has a very high volume cockpit as well as hatches at the bow and stern with sealed bulkheads. It even includes a practical day pod. It has quite an amazing storage capacity for its length and it’s also very safe thanks to the hatches with bulkheads acting as air tanks. A longer kayak will have a larger carrying capacity and it’s going to be faster and track better but a shorter one, being wider will have better primary & secondary stability and will be more agile as it will be much easier to steer and turn. Great video as always!
I too am a big fan of Delta 12.10s and concur that they are sea worthy. I own two of them. They also double as a good flat water estuary boat. Turning a 17ft cruiser in a narrow tidal slough can be a challenge. It tracks well without a rudder in wind, and it’s light weight makes it an easy solo portage from car to water. It is also on sale at REI right now for $1250, which is steal for a full fitted sea kayak. It is slower than a narrower and longer kayaks, but for day and overnight touring I don’t think that is a problem.
Glad you ok mate-pretty bad there i hear-stay safe.Anyway i am fairly new to paddling-4 yrs now but when i decided to upgrade i went with the Dagger Stratos 14.5L-just perfect for what i like to do down here in Tasmania.Thanks for the channel-has been a great resource so far and your excitement for the sport shows in the vids .Also great aerial footage of those lakes-Fantastic!!!
Wow! my level 2 instructor was from Tasmania. he made it sound like a epic place. So defo on my list, i might even do a couple episodes there at some stage for my channel.
Here's the thing about length, there are 2 types of drag on a hull, skin friction & wave drag. Skin friction relates to the surfaces area of the hull and the speed of the hull through the water. Skin friction is directly proportional to the wetted area of the hull and exponentially proportional to the speed. All other things (such as beam & lines) being equal: A shorter hull has less wetted area than a long hull, so a short hull will have less skin friction than a long hull at the same speed. However, wave drag imposes a speed limit (hull speed) on displacement hulls. This happen because as the boat approaches hull speed, the wave drag rises extremely sharply making it impossible for even the strongest paddler to go any faster. Sure, if you had 1000 x super human power, you might be able to get a displacement hull fast enough to go up on the plane, it's just not ever going to happen right!. So shorter hull will have a lower hull speed than a longer hull. However, while the shorter boat is not approaching it's hull speed, the longer hull will have greater drag at the same speed, so it's going to require more power for the same speed and even more power again to go towards it's own faster hull speed. That power has to come from the paddler. Yes, the longer hull can go faster, but it requires more power and energy from the paddler to do so. There basically comes a point when the extra potential speed is simply not worth the cost to the paddlers endurance. This varies between paddlers of course. So, the hull length should ideally match the paddler's reasonable future potential capacity for endurance power. If the paddler is a small and slight beginner, they are probably best served with a shorter narrower lighter weight hull.
I agree with your coclusion. But I am missing one fact. If you put a paddler in a shorter kayak, that kayak will sink deeper into the water, thus increasing its wet area...
@@ikkeennietjij Not exactly, While the shorter boat sinks deeper, that is not sufficient to increase the hull wetted surface above that of the longer boat. The minimum wetted surface for a given displacement is a hemisphere. Starting from there, the more elongated a hull of the same displacement, the greater its wetted surface. So, with a kayak it becomes a matter of balancing the paddlers sustainable power against the drag budget of the hull. A paddler of greater sustainable power will find their optimum range with a longer boat than is optimal for paddler with less sustainable power.
Glad you guys came out the other side of the illness, in recovery mode. Fellow New Yorker, here...but, in the western part of the state. Paddling has always been a dream of mine, and, in the present light of the world situation, I figured I'd better jump in soon, as you never know how things will turn out. Having only been in a canoe, as far as smaller boats go, I figured I'd start off with a rec boat. I'm 5'7", 230#. Not fat, just stocky. I purchased a 12' roto molded rec kayak, with a single hatch. Now I know why you should try before you buy. I hate it. Most of my paddling will be done on the oak orchard river, lake ontario, the niagara River, and other tributaries in the area. I want something with better hull efficiency, faster, and better tracking. Might do some over nighting with it, as well. I won't be buying anything else, untill I can at least paddle it a bit. I don't have alot of money, as I'm semi retired, and my income isn't that great. I suffer from a little arthritis, but, I'm not giving in to it. It may limit me on tiny cock pits. I'm eyeballing the eddyline sitka line. Does that sound like a good direction, to you? I like the idea of the "carbonlight" material, as constantly worrying about exposure to direct sunlight, and the weight of roto molded hulls, is a big turn off to me. Thanks for your advice, in advance. I also hope you're back doing what you love.
Not sure how far you advanced in your kayak process but if you have a REI near you you can buy a boat try it out and if it is not suitable return it. I did that with a Eddyline which just didn't track well at all. Then just built my own. As far as a paddle which is like a birds wing in air try a Greenland paddle. Amazingly smooth and a lot less stress on shoulders and arms.....hope you found the right boat, its a great way to just.....hummmmmmmmm
If you haven't already upgraded ... Some friends have Sitkas and really like them. For about $1000 less something like a Tsunami 125 is a pretty good all-around boat. The 145 would be better (and another $300ish) if you want to do a lot of paddling in more open water. At least according to the brochures the Tsunami isn't that much heavier than the Sitkas. Being rotomolded it will stand up to a bit more abuse, with a minor tradeoff if you don't store it out of the sun. The Tsunamis also have a fairly large cockpit, which you'll only get in the largest (and most expensive) Sitka. Ideally you can find a shop where you can demo boats before buying.
Currently looking at getting into kayaking with a sea kayak with a rudder, so I can go up river also to Lake Superior, tried one in a pool once, & was very comfortable with its stability, leaning way over & keeping upright with the paddle each way. Currently have an older & heavier 1973 Alumnacraft canoe, which is ok on lakes or going down river, but a bit of a slowpoke barge side considering I’m craving efficiency & speed? A 1 week BWCA trip would definitely need major modifications on gear capacity, the canoe capable of hauling up to 600 lbs of gear.
KH Great production value in your vids. Love the aerial shots, and scenic beauty. After watching my wife wants to join me-- bought her first kayak last week.
when you are in a river with a sea kayak, you got to watch out a lot more for submerged rocks, especially in the rapids. I went down the Suwannee river in Florida where there is a class 3 section. I don't recommend you try tackling it on an 18 foot sea kayak...
I'm really curious which part of the Delaware he was on. At reasonable levels there's nothing too difficult, but there are plenty of rocks. With the current it's pretty easy to be moving at 4 of 5 mph when you hit one. A whitewater boat isn't necessary to handle the difficulty, bu the ability to turn very quickly when you see a rock right in front of you is very useful.
Well it’s engineered as a Sea Kayak. Yes it can be used On large bodies of River’s and Lake’s with calm current and knowing the water depth and environment. Use my 17 ‘ all the time on a River, and tour safely since it has no swallow rocks.
A new kayak video during these weird times is a big pleasure to discover, thanks. I am glad you and your family are allright. In the meanwhile I will have to continue paddling in my small swimming pool (also on RUclips) Cheers!
Thank you for another video, I always enjoy watching your videos. As a beginner paddler your videos have helped me with my adventures. Glad to hear you and your family are doing well - stay safe!
To add: the using a slide stroke with a Greenland or Aleut style paddle makes a sea kayak more maneuverable. I often use my 17' CLC Chesapeake in windy, narrow rivers without a rudder with no problem. The slide stroke works by sliding the paddle through your hands to reach way out on the outside of an intended turn so that the tip of the blade on the opposite end is in your opposite hand. This effectively gives you a much longer paddle to make a turn with.
I have an Enduro Riot 12 which I use in the Clyde Fjord (Scotland) and owing to its wide beam allows me greater stability when crossing open sea from sea loch to sea loch.
About skin on frame kayaks: they tend to be lesser in volume. When doing a assisted rescue (X rescue) it can sink so deep, when climbed upon, that the cockpit takes in water again. Especially in (even smaller) waves!
really useful, thanks, appreciated. currently in a touring w/w up and down a Scottish Loch, but thinking of needing something more able to cut through those waves!
My 17ft Mariner Max only has one bulkhead (aft) while the cockpit and forward compartment are the same. I have 2 float bags (fore & aft), and it’s absolutely seaworthy. In fact, it’s a touring beast.
I'm considering a 14' Pakayak. It would be ideal for me but it's 59 pounds. I'm handicapped so I'll only use it on flat water. The reason it weights so much is because it's in 6 sections that clip together. By the way, this won't be my first kayak. The last one was too cumbersome for me to handle.
Have you considered a thermoformed kayak? They’re lighter as a rule. Not sure if overall length is an issue for you in moving it around. Eddyline has a nice series of light weight craft, but they’re not exactly cheap. Reasonable price, in my opinion. I like that you’re not giving up because of a limitation...I wish you many happy years afloat!!!
Really helpful tips on how to select a sea kayak. I have a rec kayak now, but plan to upgrade to a sea kayak. I'm looking at the P&H Leo and Scorpio, Delta 16 and 17, and Wilderness Systems Tempest 170. Any thoughts on these brands and would you recommend any of them?
You may have already bought something by now but my advice is to go try any kayak you're interested in, in person. Only way to really know what best fits you and will perform the way you want. Additionally, kayak outfitters will be able to help you with sizing and any questions you have. Everyone also has their own opinion about which brand is best. I personally have a Delta 15s, I've also tried a Leo and thought it was a well performing kayak. Delta's are thermoformed so lightweight, which is great for loading and unloading or any portaging and they also have a large amount of storage.. I believe the others are rotomolded so they will be heavier. Good luck, have fun.
Thanks for the info! What’s the best way to forecast calm seas? I live by the coast and sometimes the water is so flat, perfect to kayak. Other times it’s super choppy. How can I forecast / predict this?
If there is a surf spot near you, you should be able to find a surf forecast from magicseaweed or from surfline. If you don't have that option you can look up a maritime forecast for your area, or check marine buoys that are off the coast of where you plan on going out (they will give you a live reading of the swell which can give you an indication of what conditions are like). General weather forecasts are a good guide too, but I can't advise you on that because it is location dependent. If the wind is onshore (sea to land) it's going to be choppy, if there is no wind or it is light offshore, the sea is usually more glassy. That doesn't mean there won't be waves though, so you still need to check a buoy
I am in the middle of Alberta and no see here but thousands of lakes and rivers. I like the idea of a sea kayak because of size but all rivers here have rapids. How safe is the longer sea kayak when you get in a canyon and have to go through?
Hello, I have been viewing some of your videos and I find them very helpful. I. One them you mention that you are in NY. I live in Westchester County and I kayak in the Hudson. Being a novice, I have been looking for classes to learn to recover if my kayak overturns. Do you know of a place I can get lessons? I would also like to connect with a group. Thank you.
Such a great channel, You really come across well. I have launched my own channel Aventura Scotland and will be taking tips from you on the kayaking episodes that's for sure. Stay safe
First off, glad you are getting better. Hopefully everyone in your family is safe. I have a "problem". I am cheap and a little bit dumb, so instead of buying a kayak for myself I made a skin on frame kayak. I am currently building my second kayak based on a sea kayak that I got for my wife. My first was a skin on frame, and my second is a stitch and glue. I have been watching tons of youtube videos on sea kayaking and I am wondering about different kayak profiles and how that effects paddling. By profiles I don't just mean length, width, and number of chines, but also how high the front and back of the kayak tip up and the location of the cockpit relative to the front and back of the kayak. I have seen some where the front and back tip up really far, and others that look like they are almost flat, or even tip down in the back. Thoughts?
You're talking about 'rocker'. One thing you'll notice is that kayaks for river whitewater have a lot of rocker. This is because it effectively reduces the length of the kayak from the water's perspective and makes it more maneuverable. So for a sea kayak I'd keep the rocker to a minimum. Though seeing how this comment is 11 months old, I hope you got your answer somewhere else and have been enjoying your kayak for a while now
@@tiaxanderson9725 In boats that are often less than 7' long and used in highly variable currents the rocker isn't really all that important in terms of tracking or resistance to turning. In whitewater kayaking it's usually important to edge into the turn (as with most sports), and that rocker means that edging into the turn results in the right shape for carving a turn. For anyone who's a skier it's similar to putting a ski on edge and bending it. For turning a long boat with little or no rocker edging opposite the turn let's the curve along the side of the boat help with the turn. If you edge opposite the turn while crossing a transition in current you're usually going to be upside down in a real hurry, so even in a long sea kayak you need to edge into the turn and let the difference in current speed turn you when crossing an eddyline. The OP would probably do well to base things on the kayak he'd be buying if he wasn't building his own. Depending on how happy he's been with his early efforts maybe he can go that route on future efforts.
Weathercocking is the WORST! Four miles from shore and the kayak wants to go somewhere other than home. A skeg doesn't cut it. My next kayak will have a rudder.
This may seem random but I bought a sterling illusion last winter and was wondering if you could tell me what skirt brand and size fits the cockpit an if you would recommend it or a different brand. Thanks
I know you didn't ask me, but seals makes great spray skirts. You can usually email them and tell them your kayak make, model, and year and they will find one for you. They didn't have one for my specific boat, but passed my info along to a reputable outfitter in New yourk who offered me 3 different styles for mine.
I dont think it comes with a skeg. Did you get it? Did you get a rudder? Im looking at the Feel Free Aventura 140. Skeg, perimeter lines, thigh hooks (kinda), adjustable foot rests, skirt-able. I hear secondary stability is amazing, but the seat is only “fair.” I don’t know if I’d take it in open water. Not sure I would take me in open water, for that matter....Cheers!
I am thinking of getting a 14 Riot and going from Galveston-Tx to Florida and then up the seaboard towards Rhode Island. What would you recommend for this trip and od you think there are places you can get Water and or food if needed?
I would talk to Nick Crowhurst. He wrote a book on paddling the "crotch" of Florida's Gulf Coast. He and his wife traveled from England every winter for a decade to paddle that area. There's a book about it. Find him at CNC Kayaks. And yeah--did you do it? Still doing it? It's a long route no doubt for HPWC. I'd want to have a pop-up sail of Cape Falcon Kayaks design--for favorable light air.
In theory yes, if you stay at less than 1 mile from the shore. However, I would not recommend it because whitewater kayaks are primarily designed to move with the water and not glide over it. Their profile is really not optimal for moving on calm water and will require much more energy from the paddler in order to keep moving forward. Also, whitewater kayaks are designed to be very responsive for turning, making them difficult to keep on a straight line.
It depends on what you want to do, and there was at least one WW boat in the video. WW boats are designed to be very maneuverable and I wouldn't hesitate to take one out to play in a place like Deception Pass (search for videos). OTOH, whitewater boats are generally going to be much slower than a typical sea kayak. If you need to cover a significant distance or paddle against a current that's going to be a serious downside. Because a WW kayak won't have a sealed bulkhead it's also very important to have airbags. If you have a WW boat and a bit of experience you've hopefully learned that the will track quite well if you know how to paddle.
I own 12feet kayak, and only go on sea, i use it for training trips but most often for surfing in hardest condition my sea offers.. im not complayining about anything but speed and cargo space. It takes lots of energy to go with speeds like 4-5 knots. it gets very hard to keep up with others when fully loaded. but for fun and trainings its perfect for me.. and it fits under my ceiling.
I've owned a Necky Manitou 14 for years now and IMO it is a superb boat.
According to the transportation laws in the US and Canada, the minimum length of a vessel that is authorized to navigate at more than 1 mile from any coast line is 4 meters (13 feet). The vessel must also be bridged and have front and back sealed compartments that can keep the boat horizontally afloat even if the cockpit is full of water. "Afloat" means that the cockpit opening always stays out of the water when the boat is turned upright.
So, this is mandatory only if you are going to be kayaking at more than 1 mile away from the coast. If you plan on staying close (< 1 mile) from the shore, there is no minimum according to the laws, any recreational kayak is legal in this condition. However, the paddler should always choose the appropriate type of boat to stay SAFE. Always evaluate the risks of the waves, wind, tide, air and water temperature, presence of exit point, etc.
Great to know. Thanks.
I'd rally *love* to see cite to back that up, but I won't hold my breath. 4 meters is the international rule for minimum length for kayak slalom racing, and the reason that at one time just about all whitewater kayaks were 4 meters instead of the roughly 2 meters that's extremely common today. If there's any USCG regulation about minimum lengths they're doing a really bad job of making that information available. It would obviously be a bad idea, but as near as I can tell it's perfectly legal to paddle out to the US territorial limit in an 8' inflatable raft from Walmart.
@@suedenim9208 Thank you for the reply and the challenge to cite the law. In my original comment, I was actually citing a document from a sea kayak certification I did a couple of years ago here in Canada. Sorry for the length of this reply, navigating through and understanding the laws and standards of two countries is not simple.
I took a look at the Canadian law governing kayaks: "Small Vessel Regulations (SOR/2010-91)". Kayaks fall into the category "Human-Powered Pleasure Craft". Article 715 says "The design of the hull of a pleasure craft that is not more than 6 m in length shall conform to the construction standards for buoyancy, flotation and stability.", which refers to a standard named "Construction Standards for Small Vessels (2010) - TP 1332 E". In the USA, the construction standards for pleasure or recreational crafts seems to be written by "The American Boat & Yacht Council". The USCG (US Coast Guard) seems to only regulate the safety equipment of the boat and its users and not the design/construction of the boat itself. Kayaks are never specifically named in any of the standards or laws in both countries. In short, and I will give you the credit on this one, none of the standards prescribe a minimum length. However, the standards say that based on the gross weight of the vessel, dry and submerged (including passengers and cargo), it must be buoyant. Then there is a bunch of mathematical formulas to calculate the buoyancy. Added to that, the angle at which the boat will naturally rest after being submerged is prescribed (close to horizontal).
Moreover, the canadian standard TP 1332 E says at Section 3.2, article 713(3): "The materials and equipment used in the construction, manufacture or rebuilding of a vessel shall be suited to the operating and environmental conditions that the vessel may encounter.". There is nothing more specific. What I understand is that any boat manufacturer has to engineer their vessel in the way they intend it to be used and communicate the intended use to the customer. You know the small print document "Safety and compliance notice" that nobody reads... For starters, I think that just by putting the word "Sea" in "Sea Kayak" when describing their boat is already a commitment from the manufacturer on the intended use. I don't think that navigating in open waters is cited anywhere as an intended use in the safety documentation of a 20$ inflatable raft sold at Walmart. ;-)
From what I see on the market, there seems to be a minimum length below which the manufacturers are still unable to design a kayak that would meet the buoyancy, flotation and stability requirements of the standards while leaving enough room to carry some cargo. And that length seems to be around 13 ft. I have not yet seen a sea kayak on the market that was below 13 ft in length. Below that length, the watertight compartments at the front and back would probably not have a big enough air volume to ensure the proper flotability/buoyancy. Theorically, a 10 feet kayak with a stern watertight hatch and a properly installed floatation bag at the bow can be compliant to the regulations, but that risk of assembling the two together is taken by the user, not the boat manufacturer. If something would happen and the user be arrested and charged of violating the law, it would be up to them to prove to a judge that their boat was seaworthy. The document I was citing at the beginning was probably written to be simple to read and understand. I conclude that the certification authority decided to simply say that the minimum length is 13 feet/4 meters based on the same observations, not an actual quote of the laws.
Unfortunately many of the documents for the USA had a paywall in front of them. So, I have mostly looked into the Canadian documents that are free to access. I believe that the US standards are very similar to their canadian counterpart, both our countries having a lot of commercial affinities and border common bodies of water. Also, Canada being a small market compared to the USA, boat manufacturers usually make sure to comply to both standards.
Thank you for the challenge, that was fun to research. Happy kayaking!
@@viaujoc
Thanks for the thorough reply. I think that 14' is a sensible (though somewhat arbitrary, and not as easy for those using metric) minimum for going out into open water, but your post was the first time I ever saw anything suggesting there was any restriction other than good judgement. We've got an awful lot of laws designed to protect us from ourselves, but we've also got a great deal of liberty to hurt or kill ourselves by legally doing something stupid. I said I wouldn't hold my breath because I'd have been extremely surprised if anyone could actually find an applicable US regulation even with an exhaustive search.
As for length and buoyancy, the vast majority of whitewater kayaks are less than 8' long (many are under 6'). If they come with any integral flotation beyond the minor buoyancy of the materials it's in the form of a foam bulkhead that's primarily intended to prevent deck collapse, and/or a foam footrest. Most whitewater paddlers are sensible enough to put float bags in the back because they expect to be rescuing boats that have filled with water, but a fair number aren't that clever. As near as I can tell the only restrictions on short boats are the practical issues of balance (at least 2' or so behind your ass) and getting your legs inside.
The idea of intended use brings up an interesting point in the event somebody has a mishap and wants to sue after they have a mishap while limiting themselves to a use the manufacturer says is acceptable. Marketing for a lot of short recreational boats says they're suitable for "calm coastal waters" or something similar, though maybe they come with an owner's manual that offers more detail. "Calm" offers a lot of wiggle room, but under the US Code of Federal Regulations (which I suspect would be the applicable law) "coastal waters" extend well beyond a distance that even serious sea kayakers commonly venture. While such things might influence the outcome of a lawsuit there's no US rule I'm aware of that requires non-commercial operators to follow manufacturer's usage recommendations, or to limit where you take a boat in the absence of a prohibition or closure based on some other reason.
I’ve got a Delta 12.10 which is ... well 12.10. It’s in the “light touring” category specifically but still very much a sea kayak. I know from personal experience and I love it. Despite not being 14ft it has a very high volume cockpit as well as hatches at the bow and stern with sealed bulkheads. It even includes a practical day pod. It has quite an amazing storage capacity for its length and it’s also very safe thanks to the hatches with bulkheads acting as air tanks. A longer kayak will have a larger carrying capacity and it’s going to be faster and track better but a shorter one, being wider will have better primary & secondary stability and will be more agile as it will be much easier to steer and turn. Great video as always!
Delta kayaks are super nice. Really well thought out boats.
I too am a big fan of Delta 12.10s and concur that they are sea worthy. I own two of them. They also double as a good flat water estuary boat. Turning a 17ft cruiser in a narrow tidal slough can be a challenge. It tracks well without a rudder in wind, and it’s light weight makes it an easy solo portage from car to water. It is also on sale at REI right now for $1250, which is steal for a full fitted sea kayak. It is slower than a narrower and longer kayaks, but for day and overnight touring I don’t think that is a problem.
Great advice for me - a late starter in the the world of sea kayaking. I'll be 74 in April 2023. Thanks for your help.
Glad you ok mate-pretty bad there i hear-stay safe.Anyway i am fairly new to paddling-4 yrs now but when i decided to upgrade i went with the Dagger Stratos 14.5L-just perfect for what i like to do down here in Tasmania.Thanks for the channel-has been a great resource so far and your excitement for the sport shows in the vids .Also great aerial footage of those lakes-Fantastic!!!
Wow! my level 2 instructor was from Tasmania. he made it sound like a epic place. So defo on my list, i might even do a couple episodes there at some stage for my channel.
love our sea kayaks for paddling and camping on inland lakes and estuaries
Here's the thing about length, there are 2 types of drag on a hull, skin friction & wave drag. Skin friction relates to the surfaces area of the hull and the speed of the hull through the water. Skin friction is directly proportional to the wetted area of the hull and exponentially proportional to the speed. All other things (such as beam & lines) being equal: A shorter hull has less wetted area than a long hull, so a short hull will have less skin friction than a long hull at the same speed. However, wave drag imposes a speed limit (hull speed) on displacement hulls. This happen because as the boat approaches hull speed, the wave drag rises extremely sharply making it impossible for even the strongest paddler to go any faster. Sure, if you had 1000 x super human power, you might be able to get a displacement hull fast enough to go up on the plane, it's just not ever going to happen right!. So shorter hull will have a lower hull speed than a longer hull. However, while the shorter boat is not approaching it's hull speed, the longer hull will have greater drag at the same speed, so it's going to require more power for the same speed and even more power again to go towards it's own faster hull speed. That power has to come from the paddler. Yes, the longer hull can go faster, but it requires more power and energy from the paddler to do so.
There basically comes a point when the extra potential speed is simply not worth the cost to the paddlers endurance. This varies between paddlers of course. So, the hull length should ideally match the paddler's reasonable future potential capacity for endurance power. If the paddler is a small and slight beginner, they are probably best served with a shorter narrower lighter weight hull.
I agree with your coclusion. But I am missing one fact. If you put a paddler in a shorter kayak, that kayak will sink deeper into the water, thus increasing its wet area...
@@ikkeennietjij Not exactly, While the shorter boat sinks deeper, that is not sufficient to increase the hull wetted surface above that of the longer boat.
The minimum wetted surface for a given displacement is a hemisphere. Starting from there, the more elongated a hull of the same displacement, the greater its wetted surface.
So, with a kayak it becomes a matter of balancing the paddlers sustainable power against the drag budget of the hull. A paddler of greater sustainable power will find their optimum range with a longer boat than is optimal for paddler with less sustainable power.
2:08 - Dagger Stratos 125 L - 12 and a half feet long - two sealed dry hatch
Glad you guys came out the other side of the illness, in recovery mode.
Fellow New Yorker, here...but, in the western part of the state. Paddling has always been a dream of mine, and, in the present light of the world situation, I figured I'd better jump in soon, as you never know how things will turn out. Having only been in a canoe, as far as smaller boats go, I figured I'd start off with a rec boat. I'm 5'7", 230#. Not fat, just stocky. I purchased a 12' roto molded rec kayak, with a single hatch. Now I know why you should try before you buy. I hate it. Most of my paddling will be done on the oak orchard river, lake ontario, the niagara River, and other tributaries in the area. I want something with better hull efficiency, faster, and better tracking. Might do some over nighting with it, as well. I won't be buying anything else, untill I can at least paddle it a bit. I don't have alot of money, as I'm semi retired, and my income isn't that great. I suffer from a little arthritis, but, I'm not giving in to it. It may limit me on tiny cock pits. I'm eyeballing the eddyline sitka line. Does that sound like a good direction, to you? I like the idea of the "carbonlight" material, as constantly worrying about exposure to direct sunlight, and the weight of roto molded hulls, is a big turn off to me. Thanks for your advice, in advance. I also hope you're back doing what you love.
Not sure how far you advanced in your kayak process but if you have a REI near you you can buy a boat try it out and if it is not suitable return it. I did that with a Eddyline which just didn't track well at all. Then just built my own. As far as a paddle which is like a birds wing in air try a Greenland paddle. Amazingly smooth and a lot less stress on shoulders and arms.....hope you found the right boat, its a great way to just.....hummmmmmmmm
If you haven't already upgraded ... Some friends have Sitkas and really like them. For about $1000 less something like a Tsunami 125 is a pretty good all-around boat. The 145 would be better (and another $300ish) if you want to do a lot of paddling in more open water. At least according to the brochures the Tsunami isn't that much heavier than the Sitkas. Being rotomolded it will stand up to a bit more abuse, with a minor tradeoff if you don't store it out of the sun. The Tsunamis also have a fairly large cockpit, which you'll only get in the largest (and most expensive) Sitka. Ideally you can find a shop where you can demo boats before buying.
Currently looking at getting into kayaking with a sea kayak with a rudder, so I can go up river also to Lake Superior, tried one in a pool once, & was very comfortable with its stability, leaning way over & keeping upright with the paddle each way. Currently have an older & heavier 1973 Alumnacraft canoe, which is ok on lakes or going down river, but a bit of a slowpoke barge side considering I’m craving efficiency & speed? A 1 week BWCA trip would definitely need major modifications on gear capacity, the canoe capable of hauling up to 600 lbs of gear.
KH Great production value in your vids. Love the aerial shots, and scenic beauty. After watching my wife wants to join me-- bought her first kayak last week.
when you are in a river with a sea kayak, you got to watch out a lot more for submerged rocks, especially in the rapids. I went down the Suwannee river in Florida where there is a class 3 section. I don't recommend you try tackling it on an 18 foot sea kayak...
Oh you are so correct.....
I'm really curious which part of the Delaware he was on. At reasonable levels there's nothing too difficult, but there are plenty of rocks. With the current it's pretty easy to be moving at 4 of 5 mph when you hit one. A whitewater boat isn't necessary to handle the difficulty, bu the ability to turn very quickly when you see a rock right in front of you is very useful.
Well it’s engineered as a Sea Kayak. Yes it can be used On large bodies of River’s and Lake’s with calm current and knowing the water depth and environment. Use my 17 ‘ all the time on a River, and tour safely since it has no swallow rocks.
A new kayak video during these weird times is a big pleasure to discover, thanks. I am glad you and your family are allright. In the meanwhile I will have to continue paddling in my small swimming pool (also on RUclips) Cheers!
Exactly my thoughts. so glad he posted
Thank you for another video, I always enjoy watching your videos. As a beginner paddler your videos have helped me with my adventures. Glad to hear you and your family are doing well - stay safe!
How would you rate eddyline kayak for coastal use?
To add: the using a slide stroke with a Greenland or Aleut style paddle makes a sea kayak more maneuverable. I often use my 17' CLC Chesapeake in windy, narrow rivers without a rudder with no problem. The slide stroke works by sliding the paddle through your hands to reach way out on the outside of an intended turn so that the tip of the blade on the opposite end is in your opposite hand. This effectively gives you a much longer paddle to make a turn with.
I have a Chesapeake 17 as well! And I find that it's a dream to paddle in the wind, with the proper paddling technique
Did you add a skeg? Building one right now.
@@scottgorman7166 No skeg or rudder on that boat.
@Kayak Hipster What do you think of a Nautiraid Raid 325 or Narak Cross 405 for occasional use on sea but more for lakes and WW1 - 2 Rivers?
I have an Enduro Riot 12 which I use in the Clyde Fjord (Scotland) and owing to its wide beam allows me greater stability when crossing open sea from sea loch to sea loch.
I really enjoy lots of your videos. Old school w w boater here that transitioned to both crossover and sea kayaks.
Lovin it... Smiles
About skin on frame kayaks: they tend to be lesser in volume. When doing a assisted rescue (X rescue) it can sink so deep, when climbed upon, that the cockpit takes in water again. Especially in (even smaller) waves!
What I forgot to say is that it's about Greenland type skin on frame kayaks, but it also applies to the plastic onces...
really useful, thanks, appreciated.
currently in a touring w/w up and down a Scottish Loch, but thinking of needing something more able to cut through those waves!
Can you please make a video about kayak for spearfishing ?
Super informative video in a short period of time. Noice
As always awesome content. Thank you for putting this together!
My 17ft Mariner Max only has one bulkhead (aft) while the cockpit and forward compartment are the same. I have 2 float bags (fore & aft), and it’s absolutely seaworthy. In fact, it’s a touring beast.
the pics of the max ive seen all have fore and aft compartments..
I've just bought a sea kayak ultra 4.3 prowler is it OK for safe sea fishing kayak
I'm considering a 14' Pakayak. It would be ideal for me but it's 59 pounds. I'm handicapped so I'll only use it on flat water. The reason it weights so much is because it's in 6 sections that clip together. By the way, this won't be my first kayak. The last one was too cumbersome for me to handle.
Have you considered a thermoformed kayak? They’re lighter as a rule. Not sure if overall length is an issue for you in moving it around. Eddyline has a nice series of light weight craft, but they’re not exactly cheap. Reasonable price, in my opinion. I like that you’re not giving up because of a limitation...I wish you many happy years afloat!!!
Awesome video. Planning on getting a kayak soon and this really helped. Thank you!
Hey,I have a Wilderness 165, any foments??
Really helpful tips on how to select a sea kayak. I have a rec kayak now, but plan to upgrade to a sea kayak. I'm looking at the P&H Leo and Scorpio, Delta 16 and 17, and Wilderness Systems Tempest 170. Any thoughts on these brands and would you recommend any of them?
You may have already bought something by now but my advice is to go try any kayak you're interested in, in person. Only way to really know what best fits you and will perform the way you want. Additionally, kayak outfitters will be able to help you with sizing and any questions you have.
Everyone also has their own opinion about which brand is best. I personally have a Delta 15s, I've also tried a Leo and thought it was a well performing kayak. Delta's are thermoformed so lightweight, which is great for loading and unloading or any portaging and they also have a large amount of storage.. I believe the others are rotomolded so they will be heavier.
Good luck, have fun.
Thanks for the info! What’s the best way to forecast calm seas? I live by the coast and sometimes the water is so flat, perfect to kayak. Other times it’s super choppy. How can I forecast / predict this?
If there is a surf spot near you, you should be able to find a surf forecast from magicseaweed or from surfline. If you don't have that option you can look up a maritime forecast for your area, or check marine buoys that are off the coast of where you plan on going out (they will give you a live reading of the swell which can give you an indication of what conditions are like).
General weather forecasts are a good guide too, but I can't advise you on that because it is location dependent. If the wind is onshore (sea to land) it's going to be choppy, if there is no wind or it is light offshore, the sea is usually more glassy. That doesn't mean there won't be waves though, so you still need to check a buoy
Thank You 🙏, Great info,great presentation “A”
I am in the middle of Alberta and no see here but thousands of lakes and rivers. I like the idea of a sea kayak because of size but all rivers here have rapids. How safe is the longer sea kayak when you get in a canyon and have to go through?
Thanks mate, new to sea Kayaking and this was very informative.
Generally good information, but you left out one extremely important thing. What's the story with a USCG helo so close to the group of paddlers?
Hello, I have been viewing some of your videos and I find them very helpful. I. One them you mention that you are in NY. I live in Westchester County and I kayak in the Hudson. Being a novice, I have been looking for classes to learn to recover if my kayak overturns. Do you know of a place I can get lessons? I would also like to connect with a group. Thank you.
Such a great channel, You really come across well. I have launched my own channel Aventura Scotland and will be taking tips from you on the kayaking episodes that's for sure. Stay safe
This is one of my fav channels. Just checked yours out aswell, trailer is epic
@@kingkong2412 im not on the same level but if i can do half as good a job i will be happy.
Trampoline kayaking. Innovative
Have you tried kayaking in Greenland?
First off, glad you are getting better. Hopefully everyone in your family is safe. I have a "problem". I am cheap and a little bit dumb, so instead of buying a kayak for myself I made a skin on frame kayak. I am currently building my second kayak based on a sea kayak that I got for my wife. My first was a skin on frame, and my second is a stitch and glue. I have been watching tons of youtube videos on sea kayaking and I am wondering about different kayak profiles and how that effects paddling. By profiles I don't just mean length, width, and number of chines, but also how high the front and back of the kayak tip up and the location of the cockpit relative to the front and back of the kayak. I have seen some where the front and back tip up really far, and others that look like they are almost flat, or even tip down in the back. Thoughts?
You're talking about 'rocker'. One thing you'll notice is that kayaks for river whitewater have a lot of rocker. This is because it effectively reduces the length of the kayak from the water's perspective and makes it more maneuverable. So for a sea kayak I'd keep the rocker to a minimum.
Though seeing how this comment is 11 months old, I hope you got your answer somewhere else and have been enjoying your kayak for a while now
@@tiaxanderson9725 In boats that are often less than 7' long and used in highly variable currents the rocker isn't really all that important in terms of tracking or resistance to turning. In whitewater kayaking it's usually important to edge into the turn (as with most sports), and that rocker means that edging into the turn results in the right shape for carving a turn. For anyone who's a skier it's similar to putting a ski on edge and bending it. For turning a long boat with little or no rocker edging opposite the turn let's the curve along the side of the boat help with the turn. If you edge opposite the turn while crossing a transition in current you're usually going to be upside down in a real hurry, so even in a long sea kayak you need to edge into the turn and let the difference in current speed turn you when crossing an eddyline.
The OP would probably do well to base things on the kayak he'd be buying if he wasn't building his own. Depending on how happy he's been with his early efforts maybe he can go that route on future efforts.
Weathercocking is the WORST! Four miles from shore and the kayak wants to go somewhere other than home. A skeg doesn't cut it. My next kayak will have a rudder.
Great info. Thank you!
This may seem random but I bought a sterling illusion last winter and was wondering if you could tell me what skirt brand and size fits the cockpit an if you would recommend it or a different brand. Thanks
I know you didn't ask me, but seals makes great spray skirts. You can usually email them and tell them your kayak make, model, and year and they will find one for you. They didn't have one for my specific boat, but passed my info along to a reputable outfitter in New yourk who offered me 3 different styles for mine.
Thanks for the advice. Generally asking anyone who might know. I’ll reach out to seals
Great content. I’m thinking to get wilderness system tsunami 145. I’m 215lbs 5.11. This will be my first kayak. Any recommendations or alternatives?
I dont think it comes with a skeg. Did you get it? Did you get a rudder? Im looking at the Feel Free Aventura 140. Skeg, perimeter lines, thigh hooks (kinda), adjustable foot rests, skirt-able. I hear secondary stability is amazing, but the seat is only “fair.” I don’t know if I’d take it in open water. Not sure I would take me in open water, for that matter....Cheers!
I am thinking of getting a 14 Riot and going from Galveston-Tx to Florida and then up the seaboard towards Rhode Island. What would you recommend for this trip and od you think there are places you can get Water and or food if needed?
Did you do this?
I would talk to Nick Crowhurst. He wrote a book on paddling the "crotch" of Florida's Gulf Coast. He and his wife traveled from England every winter for a decade to paddle that area. There's a book about it. Find him at CNC Kayaks. And yeah--did you do it? Still doing it? It's a long route no doubt for HPWC. I'd want to have a pop-up sail of Cape Falcon Kayaks design--for favorable light air.
lengt are one thing ,hove about with ,kg ?
What are your top 3 companies to consider?
There is definitely a pre and post Covid world, soooo much has changed, now in late ‘24.
Hi, can whitewater kayaks be used for sea kayaking too?
In theory yes, if you stay at less than 1 mile from the shore. However, I would not recommend it because whitewater kayaks are primarily designed to move with the water and not glide over it. Their profile is really not optimal for moving on calm water and will require much more energy from the paddler in order to keep moving forward. Also, whitewater kayaks are designed to be very responsive for turning, making them difficult to keep on a straight line.
It depends on what you want to do, and there was at least one WW boat in the video. WW boats are designed to be very maneuverable and I wouldn't hesitate to take one out to play in a place like Deception Pass (search for videos). OTOH, whitewater boats are generally going to be much slower than a typical sea kayak. If you need to cover a significant distance or paddle against a current that's going to be a serious downside. Because a WW kayak won't have a sealed bulkhead it's also very important to have airbags. If you have a WW boat and a bit of experience you've hopefully learned that the will track quite well if you know how to paddle.
this is an old video but also keep in mind, salt water is more buoyant than fresh water, so you heavy folks might sit lower in fresh water.
Whats your favorite kayak brand?
Best safety is a well designed boat and you won’t need a rutted or skeg
So do think a Dagger Stratos 12.5L is too small to be a sea kayak ?
Same ? here. I just got the Stratos 12.5L
@@Mhdogman I think its a great around Kayak, I've used it on long river trip and got into 2 class rapids and did handled awesome.
I own 12feet kayak, and only go on sea, i use it for training trips but most often for surfing in hardest condition my sea offers.. im not complayining about anything but speed and cargo space. It takes lots of energy to go with speeds like 4-5 knots. it gets very hard to keep up with others when fully loaded. but for fun and trainings its perfect for me.. and it fits under my ceiling.
New subscriber to your channel, thanks! Glad you are OK!! Just got my first sea kayak, thirsty for knowledge (and gear:).
I will do it from Morocco to us best wishes for me
R
The audio could use a little more treble