You have never surfed" Ocean Beach San Francisco at 3x overhead.You get out to the break& exhaustion, then huge "A- Frames" and hope to kick out before," You get held in the 50° water, and, come - up hopefully with your board attached.You are on your own( no jet- skiis, no lifeguards( no lifeguard could get to you anyway.I'm only alive( well trained 6 days a week for 19 months knowing full well( my damn cancer is coming back again),_kinda thought" Dying is coming anyway, but survival instincts override it.That was 1994& still alive( working), as I feed "29" forgotten cats,12 live their lives in an" Auto junkyard, 5 more in a business strip mall,and my 2& about 10-12 in my neighborhood( people move& leave the poor animals to die.I won't let them die, until I do.God! I miss Surfing& all the nice people I met.Challenge yourselves everybody.We are here by dumb luck& No! Jesus isn't coming back soon.I will see him soon& this world is going to be great!Just" out a kilter.
@@mrbproductions wow that's really scary, from what I understand many diving accidents result from people swimming the wrong way once disoriented. Once that air gets real low it's damn near impossible to fight off the panic.
Gnarly! Bet cameraman got major ragdolled on that but glad he held the shot to see if Ben made it....true friend.
I was praying he was coming out! I'd just swam in to film someone on a smaller set then this thing loomed up in front.
You have never surfed" Ocean Beach San Francisco at 3x overhead.You get out to the break& exhaustion, then huge "A- Frames" and hope to kick out before," You get held in the 50° water, and, come - up hopefully with your board attached.You are on your own( no jet- skiis, no lifeguards( no lifeguard could get to you anyway.I'm only alive( well trained 6 days a week for 19 months knowing full well( my damn cancer is coming back again),_kinda thought" Dying is coming anyway, but survival instincts override it.That was 1994& still alive( working), as I feed "29" forgotten cats,12 live their lives in an" Auto junkyard, 5 more in a business strip mall,and my 2& about 10-12 in my neighborhood( people move& leave the poor animals to die.I won't let them die, until I do.God! I miss Surfing& all the nice people I met.Challenge yourselves everybody.We are here by dumb luck& No! Jesus isn't coming back soon.I will see him soon& this world is going to be great!Just" out a kilter.
The freaky thing about getting held down by a big wave in cold water is that it's pitch black down there.
Yeah and cold water seems and I suppose is heavier / more dense. Mavs always looks really heavy due to the cold and water colour.
@@mrbproductions And there's nothing worse than getting sucked under with an ice cream headache!
Also nearly ended cameraman
I held on to the bitter end just in case he came out. Got a bit of a beating!
Clamped!! Sick shot
Hotel California barrel, you can check in but you can never leave. Hope he's ok and recovered and back out there
Took on head for the shot epic cam.man
Cheers, was worth a go!
Heavy spot when it all goes wrong!😵
💯 💙🤙
It certainly is!!!
Good barrel,respect
Ugh what actually happened.?
The whole story is here: wavelengthmag.com/on-reefs-ben-skinner-the-bagpipes-sinkhole/
@@mrbproductions wow ,thanks for the reply. Almost a goodbye not an Au revoir
@@mrbproductions Wow heavy !!
@@mrbproductions wow that's really scary, from what I understand many diving accidents result from people swimming the wrong way once disoriented. Once that air gets real low it's damn near impossible to fight off the panic.
🤯
Turn to Christ.