How To Make A Heat Exchanger - VIDEO HD
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- Опубликовано: 27 авг 2024
- plumboogle.com/ An easy to do heat exchanger for anything from wood stove hot water to solar hot water. This style of heat exchanger can be banked in series or parallel installation. I will be making a video for sizing and designing of liquid exchangers. Subscribe if you enjoy this style of video. Many more to come! I am working on getting music for my videos.
Thanks for watching
Rob. 
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Absolutely LOVE this.
All standard off the shelf parts, simple to make, no doubt highly efficient.
Everything a project should be.
Thank you Rob!
This is a perfect fit for my Solar/ closed loop Glycol DHW system .
I built 2 exchangers as per your video, each 5 feet long and hooked them up in series
works great !
your video is simple (for us non plumbers) and easy to follow.
Well done!!!
I have made an exactly same heat exchanger four years ago, to pre-heat the oil before it gets in the burner. It works with the same hot water for the radiators. A few minutes after the burner starts, the water has the proper temperature to pre-heat the oil. As we all know, pre-heated oil has better burning performance and keeps burner nozzle clean.
I was one of 3 people when expanding my bathroom business at the time back in 1985 who developed the first mains water heat exchanger that was a retrofit fit to an existing gravity copper water tank as was then in the UK. Mains water passed through the 1/2 inch pipe in a coil 12 feet long while the stored hot water at 70c was circulated through the 1 inch pipe through one offset TEE end out of the other and back to the hot water tank. Five years later I found the same idea used in a dry cleaning machine. I later on used a flat heat exchanger and developed the worlds first multi fuel solar central heating system
i took ur examples and built on to use as a sidearm on my owb.
on the inside pipe i wrapped a copper 10 gauge wire to help mix the water as it flows
total length 60 inchs.works like a charm
thnx
This type actually works really well in shower exchangers. Except build it with 1-1/2" DWV copper. Use 2" for the outside. You can just run your cold for feeding your hot water tank, through the shower exchanger. Make it about 4-5' long. You can basically recover 65-75% of your hot water temperature with this model!
Rob The Plumber
Rob The Plumber hi. I’m doing my fyp on double coil heat exchanger. I need to ask few things. Can I’ve your insta/fb id
I like how simple this design is! Easy to make.
I have no use for it, I don't even know how I ended up with this video, but I enjoyed watching it. Thank you!
This type of fitting/pipe built heat exchanger has been around for at least 35 years. Or at least that's when I first encountered it. What is needed is not a "how to cut copper pipe" tutorial but design equations (or even charts/tables) which show the relationship between primary/secondary flow rate and temperature vs. heat transfer per foot of active coaxial foot, and for expected construction sizes (1/2, 3/4, 1, 1.25, 1.5).
Neat! I have a similar project at hand (actually several in completely different applications!) and this is exactly how I intended to make my heat exchanger. Even allowing for over-sizing to get comparable efficiency, the price beats any plate heat exchanger unit.
Thank you. The sandpaper is called Grit Cloth. It lasts 5x longer than sandpaper and cleans copper much quicker!
Fantastic video, Rob. It is nice and simple, meaning there is much less than can go wrong, which I like. Thanks a lot for this video, I am actually considering a design in similar to this, although the internal pipe will be the mid section of my car's exhaust pipe. The hot exhaust gases will flow through the pipe and the surrounding pipe will have an internal clearance of the exhaust of about 3mm (all around). The surrounding pipe will have water pumped through it at about half a litre per min.
Been a plumber for 16 yrs., I saw this video a while back. Lost it, found it 2 yrs. later, now I'm a tool maker, been thinking about how I could utilize this. Thanks.
No problem, thanks for watching.
Different dogs, same tree.
I used ¾-½-½ tees on the ends of twin 8' exchangers. The source heat came from a copper coil cemented to the top of my shop’s old Fisher stove. Potable hot water cycled thru an electric water tank. The exchanger was mounted vertically behind the stove & the tank was set on the 2nd floor, directly above the exchanger. This arraignment allows both source & potable water to flow by convection - no pump.
The twin exchangers were overkill times 2.
Safety First! (cont)
Thank you Rob for the info on copper tube thicknesses and the type of silver solder.
I just built a heat exchanger to install under the shower. I used one meter long copper pipe, 1" diameter, inside a 2" PVC pipe. I installed a big TEE on each end, and a PVC reduction to accomodate the one inch copper pipe. The reason i used PVC for the outer sleeve was to avoid loosing the heat to the surrounding ground. At the ends where both pipes shoud touch to seal the exchange chamber, I used simple O rings. Two at every end just to make a good seal. I will appreciate your opinion.
A few days ago I made another video on how to make a heat exchanger for recovering hot water from your shower. It is similar to what you are talking about. I would stick to plumbing code and keep the drain pipe at 1-1/2". If the exchanger is underground plastic is good. As long as the drain pipe itself is copper or brass. Plastic is not very good as a heat transfer material. If the exchanger is underground definitely have an insulating material around the exchanger!.
Rob
If you are making several of these, I recommend getting a reamer or drill bit for removing the step in the reducer.
Brilliant, im going to use this idea to get the hot water from my rocket stove water jacket (vented system) to my presurised system using 28mm and 22mm tube. the simple ideas are always best thanks
Could you share information and/or pics about the water jacket rocket stove? Thanks
This is one of my first videos. I really didn't have the gear to do a quality narration. I am very happy you took the time to give me some good criticism. am working on new gear as we speak. Future videos will be better.
The reason I do not use pex or plastic on the inner section is that plastic acts as an insulator and is not great as a temperature transfer material. Being a plumber for 15 years there is one thing I do not like. O-rings! They are fine for something that is always accessible. If it is an item that is going to be underground, I like to use type L copper with silver solder. Especially in a situation with the chances of say glycol and potable water possibly mixing.
Rob
This really neat, clever idea was very well presented and described.
It is the neatest system that I have seen and whose application is limited by imagination only. Subscribed.
I wish this was my idea. This has been known to most plumbers here in the north. They used to make them with galvanized tees, nipples and bushings. I need to make a video with the multilayer, multibank model I designed. Just very expensive! Copper is like gold up here! Anyways, thanks for the comment!
Rob The Plumber
I just saw your vid it's strange how people can make something identical without seeing the other persons work. I made an identical heat exchanger many years back for my campervan, it worked great. I plumbed it into the hot water from the engine and pumped circulating cold water to an from an on board tank.I worked great and gave me plenty of hot clean water.
Martin Counsell It is neat is it not? With 7 billion people on earth, it is bound to happen thousands of time. Thanks for watching.
cool, well a lot of people it's beyond there means. Maybe in the universe someone is doing it as well now!
yes the fireman is right! please explain as you go , I find it easier to follow when this is done. I am a jack-of-all-trades kind-a guy (electric,plumbing, ect.).
Nice hat, I have the same one. Nice to see a fellow gonger doing something constructive.
As described, the system will deliver scalding tap water & a possible last thought along the lines of “Oh drat. A steam explosion.” The tank’s output needs a mixing valve (off-the-selve). Stove-side plumbing needs an expansion tank & pressure relief. I used an old compressor tank & vented it thru the roof. When full of water, this provided 5psi at the stove coil, hot or cold
I wish I had those fittings where I am. I live in a small city with 2 wholesalers. They have reducing tees, the problem being there is still a ridge at the base of the hub that you need to ream. Thanks for watching.
RTP
This is a very clever and simple design! Thx!
Very cool, make sense now that you explain it. Thanks Dan.
I made one about 10 foot long. It has water inside and antifreeze around the outside. It works great.
Brilliant idea, was looking at building some kind of heat exchanger under my bath to recover energy from the shower. I think this fits the bill, so thanks so much for the video. However if you are about to post a vid with an even more efficient version soon then I may wait. I don't want to go to all the effort of sourcing parts for this version only to see something better :) eagerly waiting for your video on mk2. Thanks again.
exactly the same as a 6 footer I made for a distillation condenser. Works really well
Awesome! And copper is perfect for distillation. Thanks for watching.
That's most kind Rob. I am sure there will be some in the larger stores in Bend, OR though.
According to Issac Newton the hot in, and the cold in should be at the same end because the greater the temperature difference the faster the heat transfer. Published in 1701 in Latin, it is known as Newton's law of cooling.
Very nice, Rob.
Rob, I did this in my house in town, but I am going to do this again "soon" in my new Silo home build. By soon I mean I'm not sure if I will get this far this year or not? I will gladly post my radiant heater side arms how to link when I get there. PS, being a ploy engineer, I am going to try & not use any copper in my home. Yes copper works better for heat exchange.but if you have room all you need is to design exchanger longer. piece out! Murf
Use the cold water supplying the hot water tank and run through one side of the exchanger. The shower water goes in the other side of the exchanger. By doing this you transfer sensible heat from the shower water to the cold water supplying the hot water tank. In the end it saves you money!
Rob
Good video man, as the others say you should have used your voice, i agree! But THANK you for putting useful stuff on RUclips!
No, put the heated cold water back into the hot water tank. Making a big saving by having the tank not have to turn on as much.
Rob
I'v done this in PVC outer & HD Pex inner, I double/triple the length... Also you can do the same thing on your copper & stuff an electric cartage heater in it. if you need a bump of heat on a really long run( "temp controllers a must" I have used furnace snap switches, water bed controllers.. I done this to heat my old Hot tub.. Kewl vid guy!
Type L stands for the thickness of the copper. In hard copper there are 4 types.
Type M- residential, thin
Type L- Residential / commercial, almost 2x thick as type M
Type DWV- Drainage Waste and Vent, Thinnest
Type K- Underground, VERY Thick
If you have a Home Depot close by they sell Type L but you will have to ask. If you know a plumber, they will most likely have some pieces left over fomr commercial projects.
Silver solder is Sil-Fos. Its not pure silver. Actually only 7%.
My first video to hit 200k views! It is also one of my most basic videos. Working on a version with narration.
+Rob The Plumber thanks for the vid, but, yea, audio would b good. And/or some music and shorter subtitles. but talking is best, no long intros pls. ;)
As someone that is NOT an oral learner, actually there was very little need for talking. I liked the clear text and the visual assembly. Great informative video. My opinion only
Rob The Plumber What happened to the sound Rob?
I devekoped this concept into a coil in copper in 1989, then included the coil into a copper hot water tank to deliver hot water at mains pressure through a none pressure open vented tank.
I now promote comercial thermal store flat pack kits with drop in stainless steel heat exchanger coils for the delivery of hot water at mains presure through large tanks up to 12,000 litres assembled on site heated by solar PVT panels and heat pumps
Congratulations from Mexico a good idea ¡¡¡
And a thank you from Canada! Thanks for watching!
The size of this exchanger was made to this length to show all steps in one screen. Most of my exchangers will be 3-4 feet i length Also larger diameter pipe. Thanks for the comment
Rob The Plumber.
This is a basic exchanger that is supposed to be easy to build. If you want to build a shell and tube exchanger with simple tools, good luck to you.
Plumbing piping has some standard pipe sizing. 1/2", 3/4", 1",1-1/4", 1-1/2", 2" etc. When I say one pipe size diameter difference, I mean, 1 pipe size difference. Hope I have cleared this up. Thanks for watching and commenting.
RTP
Great video! Thank you for sharing.
Great video. I am wanting to make one of these to heat my pool with my wood stove. How much length would I need. Water from the wood stove is app. 180 degrees, pool is 14000 gal. I figured I would start with a 10 foot joint of each size and bank two 54 inch lengths to start.
Thumbs up man I never think about this But now I will consider new option how stop paying for gas with heat my water
Nice vid and I did Subscribe
Good to hear, thanks!
Excellent work, well done. I need to do some sums to see if I can design one for my own solar water heating system. Many thanks!
Thanks for watching!
Not at all! Thanks for taking the time to make this!
Hi, just a suggestion. Spiral a (copper) wire aound the inner tube to force outsite fluid to take the "long road" from in to out.
Nice video!
good idea.
I built a still using a design almost exactly like this. I used a reducing tee, which requires less cutting.
Thank you for watching. Thanks for the kind comment. Please subscribe for great videos in the near future. I have a head full of knowledge and many great simple but effective projects!
Rob The Plumber
Thanks my dear friends
In the making. I have most of the video made. Just need to edit. Check back soon. Thanks for watching!
RTP
Buen Chico, Buen Proyecto impresionante sigue con mas trabajo !!!
Reduced the cost by 85%. Check out the new video here : ruclips.net/video/mEExlOX458Y/видео.html
Thank you for the kind comment. Stay tuned for a more complicated, but more efficient heat exchanger build!
Rob The Plumber
Nice instructional movie, I didn't even know seethrough sandpaper excisted.
Good video. Very clear. Thanks.
You should encrease the surfice area by adding smaller thinner inner tubes
if you get copper tubes winded. both the inner as the outer. then you can twist them in to each other and have more heat exchange with less lengt.(sorry for strange explanaition, english is not my native language)
For what purpouse is this tiny heat xchanger it is so small for anything to cool or to heat
People might be interested to know that special reducing Tees are available for making heat exchanger that don't require any reaming.
Hi Rob, Im a plumber and I am installing a solid fuel stove which has a power to water rating of 15KW, Im thinking of making a shell and tube single pass exchanger with 1" tube and 1.5" shell, do you think this will work? and if so what length would you make it? im making the exchanger as I am installing an oil fired boiler also with underfloor heating, I want to have the stove on gravity feed and the rest pressurised to 1.5bar.
I can help with that. I will start the project. If it works out I will make a video. Thank you for the suggestion. Enjoy the videos.
RTP
Hey Rob
In term of adding music I can hear that you have the audio track still turned on a are recording click and clacking as you pull the gadget apart, simply just put the stereo on in the background mate, a bit a Pachabel canon A Major I think LOL
Yes this will work perfectly with a gas geyser. Thanks for watching!
Rob The Plumber
Is it worth it? Is it will be enough for heating water instead of water heater? Only 1-1/4 copper pipe cost almost $50 + fittings, +3/4” pipe inside, in my situation. I can buy 3/4 heat exchanger for $78. Which one will work better?
good job, and good idea
Awesome video. Living off the grid, can I fill the tube with antifreeze and will it automatically rotate the flow back with out a pump like it syphons cold water out of a bucket into an empty bucket? I've seen someone use just an empty tube, would that be safer ? I don't want to use a battery to pump if I don't have to. I'd really like to get the heat down to the floor. Any suggestions ?
I was working on one too n now I see a simpler one. I need to heat up a 1/2 “ line with about 1.6 gallon of water in it. I’ll have a solar collector pump but wonder if it would need to be bigger wacha tink ?
It's called a Liebig condensor.. Nice work by the way..
Nice simple design. I like it. I was thinking that heat exchange would be improved by increasing turbulence in the inner and outer flows. For the outer flow, simply changing the angle of the input and output T's should create more swirl. What do you think?
Yes this design can serve many purposes. Thanks for watching.
RTP
that's nice. saw everything understood everything. A little quick on the words but pause was good for that. But... what do you do with it??? I want an air heat exchanger to build an HHO heater for the house. got any idea's??
If you could Dan maybe send me some pics of your unit, I am interested in seeing how you made the unit.
Wondering what material list I need to make this heat exchanger for a 40 gallon hot water heater with domestic water supply with 3/4" hook ups and boiler feed fittings are 1" and also length that side arm should be
What do you use this for?
PS I forgot to mention. I do not use O rings or shark "bite me" fittings. Crimping pex High Density or ABS is the only way to go. but have shrink welded PVC on the out side of exchanger only.
holy shit! sound at 6:09! lol. thanks for posting.
I am currently making the video with narration. This video was never supposed to be seen by anyone.
Thanks For Watching
I know, but he must be Mute; They used to call it "Dumb".
This Heat exchanger has only one pipe inside ?need more for better heat transfer..,
what would on do with the heat and energy from a shower? radiant heat, or something else?
They have a NEW invention called TALKIE movies. They were first used in 1923. You might check them out.
+Dave Lionberger hahaha
Sounds great. I will surely be in touch with you soon!
RTP
Thank you kindly!
RTP
If your car has a catalytic converter, make sure that you collect heat after the converter. Otherwise you will get a code for your catalyst not getting up to temperature.
Used for any application?
What about cooling down hot Hydrochloric acid with liquid Zenon?
If you cant find any silver solder, message me and I will send some in the mail for you. Enough to get a project done.
Hello
What size pipe would you use to connect a wood boiler to an existing 100mbtu boiler?
Thanks
Tom
any ideas on how to makw a mini heat exchanger for peltier units? I've tried forced air but the water exchange works the best.
No such thing as a mini-exchanger. The bigger the better. You can make them shorter and bank a few but as far as mini, no. The more surface area between the two liquids, the better the exchange of temperature.
Hallo Rob i have a Gas geyser installed .Will this work to lift the incoming water temp into the geyser as to use less gas for heating the water.I like your video.
Exactly, I sometimes have a hard time putting thought into words.
RTP
This would work as a condenser as well if you ever felt like making a still.
Also known as a Liebig condenser
Hi Rob, can this be soft Solder, or does it have to silver solder
Thanks
Thank you for watching.
RTP
Where it connects to demonstrate the operation.....Help me
this is great, could someone use copper inside like you have here and use plastic wast pipe around the copper to save money and get the same heat ex. back into the water heater as with copper around the inlet pipe.
Yes you can use copper on the outside. Plastic is an insulator. You would not want to use plastic as the exchange material. Thanks for watching.
Rob The Plumber did you mean copper inside.
howard ashcraft
Yes, very sorry. I missed that when typing.