@@ZacBuilds I used some paper towels because I didn't really have any rags, just hand towels that are still too new to throw away. Seems like it worked.
This is the fifth and final video I’ve watched to learn how to do this and it’s by far the best. Of course you’re from Toronto, my fellow Canadian. You’ve earned yourself a sub, good sir!
One helpful tip a friend told me. Half fill the bath with water and then seal. Once dry, empty the tub. This helps to keep the seals in place when having baths. If you seal with an empty bath it can pull the seal away from the wall when filling and expanding slightly
Many installers caulk the vertical corner joints. The idea is that walls sometimes flex and move apart from each other a little bit. Grout will crack and leak, but caulk will handle the flex.
this is true, but using caulking is the wrong product to use. Instead, you can buy actual grout caulking that matches the color of your grout or atleast close to it.
Well done Zac! Never thought of blue tape and clear caulk for bathrooms. There are plenty of amateurs like myself that appreciate these tips and tricks. Thank you for your time and talent. Follow up one day later - I used the tape method and a small tube of 100% silicon bath and tub clear caulk. The small tube allows total control and the tape protects both edges. The results are truly amazing, precise amount of clear caulk in the grout joint to seal the tile floor and plastic shower surround. All of the extra caulk just glazed over onto the blue tape. After smoothing and removing the extra caulk with my finger I just pulled off the blue tape. The results are stunning. Perfect clear silicon sheen along the grout line edges.
I only use white caulk because I find that clear eventually looks dirty. Once you take the tape off, right after applying the caulk, you should leave it alone and not use your finger to flatten it. When you spread it again like this it creates a thin edge, and that thin edge will lift after awhile of exposure to water and the mold will start again sooner than you can imagine. Just saying, its a good video, but this is what I have found out regarding methods. You should always caulk the corners since there needs to be a bit of give in this area and that is what silocone offers.
Thanks so much for taking the time to make this video. I’m a single mom and hate having to pay for simple repairs I can do myself. You step by step technique is informative and easy! Wish me luck on my own tubs and showers!
Zac, late to the video but I did a great caulking job that went bad as I hadn't weighed down the tub while it went off. I had water leaks down to my kitchen. I had to remove it all and weigh down the tub with heavy books and some weights. My daughter's new build house had the exact same problem. It's a lesson I won't forget, great videos fella!
The problem WAS NOT caused by not weighing down the tub. It was caused by poor installation. I’m a professional caulker and have caulked 100s of tubs. Weighing it down is ridiculous. The purpose of the sealant is to move as the tub moves
Nice instruct and teaching style, thanx. I read someone said to dip finger in alcohol before you run it along the silicone as it prevents much from sticking on your finger. For me the silicone is unbearably icky sticky and I am gearing up to doing an old old shower stall very cramped and needing a lot of digging out old caulk which was applied atop of previous ... who knew?
Aha! I'm a first-time homeowner and noticed a gap in my caulk in one area, and plenty of moldy caulk in others. I knew it wasn't a crazy thing to DIY and your video makes me feel like I could really do it myself!
Nice job. I just started seeking out videos on how to do this…I’ve found there are few contractors available in my area for these types of jobs. So, I’m hoping I can do this job myself. This is the second video I’ve watched. I like your attention to detail AND the painters tape use is a great idea for a novice like me. Thanks!
In my experience, it is important to remove the tape as soon as possible, because if you wait too long, when you pull the tape away it lifts an edge along the caulking. That being said, I always use tape when caulking, nice clean straight lines.
Thank you. Question. Same setup as your. For the bathtub meeting the wall tile. Can you use grout. Let it rest. Then put clear silicone on it? Thank you
Thanks brotha. I gotta do my mother's shower and I've never done this before. Its just to make it last til she gets it done completely and RIGHT...lol. It might not even fix the problem shes having but ima do it anyway just in case
Haha thanks Mimi! Many people have asked why I have a giant mirror in my bathroom not realizing it's a rain head. I could do a video on it, but it would be REALLY quick. It's just unscrew the old one and screw that one on. I bought it off of Amazon too, super cheap and I'm suprised at how good the quality is considering the price. amzn.to/34YU8zq
It might be worth leaving a dehumidifier running over night before you start sealing to make sure a lot of the moisture has been taken from the room. Nice job though I will definitely be doing this.
i always taped and caulked for that perfect line, but it takes way too long. Mix some detergent with water in a spray bottle, apply the silicone, spray the area with the solution, wipe clean with your finger. Works perfectly and much much faster than taping.
@@JoeVengencenot good glass installers. Never use any liquid as a tooling agent. Every major manufacturer says not to use liquids to tool with if you look close enough at their tech manuals. Here is what DOW ( one of the largest silicone manufacturers in the world ) says: “NOTE: Do not use liquid tooling aids such as water,soap or alcohols. These materials will interfere with cure, adhesion and create aesthetic issues.”
Nice, thanks for sharing! how did u clean the water stain stuff? what kind of vac cleaner it is? dyson? how much does a charge hold up? it looks to have good suction....none of mine have had good suction, trying to find a useful one....i tried some sharp or Dyson, suction was not that good..expensive, and battery life was like 30 min after charging for hrs.
Thanks for watching! I cleaned all the water stain stuff just by scrubbing with a damp rav, and the vacuum is pretty good for carpet and floors but for general purpose stuff it isn't great. Especially for the price. Battery life mostly depends on which setting you have it on. Max suction kills the battery quick, like less than 10 min
Easiest method for this. Apply the silicon and use a fondant thing, I don't know the exact name but it has a ball on the end, run that across the caulk. The the sides of the caulk will peel right off after it dries and you don't have to tape anything
Thank you, Zac. We have a fiberglass shower enclosure and can't find a caulk that will adhere to it. Do you have any recommendations? Although the enclosure is clean, it looks awful where the sides of the enclosure meet the bottom. Thank you in advance for any advice.
This is for people who never have done this before The only thing you need is a rag, a wet finger and practice Practice, practice, practice is the only way!
Wet finger? Stick it up ya arse! Leaves a crap seal with minimal adhesion. Simply apply at 45 degree angle for a perfect seal which is easy to clean, rookie.
This is hilarious. Anyone that really does much of this would never use a wet finger. Every major manufacturer says not to use liquids to tool with if you look close enough at their tech manuals. Here is what DOW ( one of the largest silicone manufacturers in the world ) says: “NOTE: Do not use liquid tooling aids such as water,soap or alcohols. These materials will interfere with cure, adhesion and create aesthetic issues. It is amazing when very unknowledgeable people act as though they are experts.
There are caulking tools that work perfectly for that job without the need to mask anything off. If people use care, and common sense they can have a professional looking job done.
l was told to use a gloved finger as its the oils on your finger that promotes mould,and never use masking tape as it leaves a blunt edge but as you smooth it over after removing the tape that should feather the edges, and l have just splashed out for some sealant profile tools, not knowing l had 5 on each hand
WD40 helps take off the old silicon really well too. I always give it a nice coat, then go at it with a blade. Just need to make sure all excess residue is gone before you re-caulk. Hope that helps someone fighting with old mouldy bits of silicone out there!
Using wd 40 is a very bad idea. It contaminates porous surfaces. I’m a professional caulker and if their was WD 40 we are required to mechanically abrade( grind) the bonding surface.
I’ve never seen anyone else (besides myself) tape prep for caulk , been doing this for years . My neighbor looked at me like I was an alien 1st time he saw me do this !
That's probably because using a thin bead + a wet finger does exactly the same thing but you don't waste 1/2 hour taping everything. I can't understand why he is doing this to be honest. (And it's *clear* caulk to begin with.) He did do a nice job but you absolutely don't have to do this to get good looking results with caulk. (clear or white)
Tipp..take a cup of water put some drops dish soap in..mix it and dipp your finger in and go on the end over the silicon..this makes the job much easier.
@CountryStranger wrong Every major manufacturer says not to use liquids to tool with if you look close enough at their tech manuals. Here is what DOW ( one of the largest silicone manufacturers in the world ) says: “NOTE: Do not use liquid tooling aids such as water,soap or alcohols. These materials will interfere with cure, adhesion and create aesthetic issues.”
Never do that. Every major manufacturer says not to use liquids to tool with if you look close enough at their tech manuals. Here is what DOW ( one of the largest silicone manufacturers in the world ) says: “NOTE: Do not use liquid tooling aids such as water,soap or alcohols. These materials will interfere with cure, adhesion and create aesthetic issues.”
I learned an even better trick 30 years ago in my cabinet building years: apply your bead of silicone caulk uniformly (no messy blobs), then spray denatured alcohol on the silicone and surrounding surface, finally use your finger to wipe down your bead. A perfect bead every time, (unless you have voids in the bead where the alcohol got in behind the silicone). The silicone will not adhere to any surface, including your hands that has denatured alcohol on it. The alcohol evaporates in a short period of time. Nice looking, evenly tooled bead every time.
ABSOLUTELY WRONG Every major manufacturer says not to use liquids to tool with if you look close enough at their tech manuals. Here is what DOW ( one of the largest silicone manufacturers in the world ) says: NOTE: Do not use liquid tooling aids such as water,soap or alcohols. These materials will interfere with cure, adhesion and create aesthetic issues Anyone that did this on a jobsite would be fired on the spot. This is one of the main reasons homeowners have to replace their sealants so often.
Caulking at changes of planes loke walls and at the tub is not only good practice but required in many areas. If you pick the right color its invisible anyway.
Thanks, this was very helpful. I'm pretty bad at home repairs and I've done some very bad caulk jobs in the past, but this really helped me get it right. One thing, I'm guessing that last pass with your finger after you take off the tape is supposed to be softer, right? I did the first part with the same amount of pressure as when the tape was on and it made it look pretty rough.
Hey! Happy to help, and that's a good question. I probably should've been more clear in the video. Yes, that last pass is generally a bit softer than all of the other passes with your finger. You're just trying to smooth out those hard edge that were left when you were removed the tape. Hopefully that's a little more clear!
To be honest, I was just very meticulous when removing the old caulk with my knife, however you might also want to give the whole area a rub down with rubbing alcohol to remove any old silicone residue.
Out of curiosity, never caulked before, how long should you let the tub dry before and after? In my case I have an older tub with sliding doors. And the people who remodeled the apartment did NOT clean the mildew from underneath the shower door frame. So them immediately upon me using said shower/tub the caulking came loose and, well....it's disgusting. How do I clean that? Am I right in assuming the caulking came off because it wasn't cleaned properly? Forgive my ignorance. Laura
@@reginamartin8219 hi Regina. I don’t we do know each other. I’m sure I would remember someone with such a beautiful name. Thanks for liking my comment.
Good question Kate, and yes you can, but it's not ideal. The reason I saw that is paper towel usually tends to give off little flakes of dusty, when you're wiping your sticky finger on them those little bits of dust will stick to your finger. Then you'll transfer those bits of dust to your fresh caulk lines. Probably not the end of the world, but it would be better to use a lint/dust free towel. Hope that helps!
Correct me if Im wrong but arent you supposed to fill the tub with water because the weight could possibly cause the tub to shift and create gaps that are too small to see but not too small for mold to get into??. Idk if its true but its what i have always done and i havent had a mold issue yet.
I have used this method several times where things are so crooked and offset and every time I tried from begging I failed to do a good job, regardless the experience.
I am a professional caulker for over 45 years. It is true that in this instance I would not tape. But using tape IS a valid technique. It is exactly what I would tell a homeowner to do.👍
Are you can skip all that tape and put the caulk on and spray it with Windex and wipe it off the caulk want stick to the index on the wall are tub. try it
So many people apply silicone or acrylic sealer "backwards"! The net result is that most of the sealer is in a bead on the OUTSIDE of the join and MOST of the sealer gets wiped off during cleanup. The correct way is to cut the tip so that the widest point of the angled cut is JUST wider than the gap to fill. The most important part of this process is to PUSH the sealant FORWARD ahead of the caulking gun to "force" the sealant into the join. The correctly cut (angled) tip provides the radius on the finished surface, with minimum "spill" on the surrounding surfaces. Doing it this way saves so much time in clean up and saves so much time in NOT applying masking tape (and the COST of the masking tape). Finish the job with a quick wipe with a moist cloth (moist with water or suitable silicone cleaner). Minimum waste of sealer, clean fingers and keep your masking tape for other jobs :-)
I’m a professional caulker and if someone pushed the gun they would be laughed off of the job. ANYTHING you can do pushing the gun you can do pulling the gun by simply angling the tip correctly. And you can see what you are doing.This is a fact. BTW. I have installed, very conservatively, over 100 MILES of sealant.
@@genecarden780 professional? I don't think so. If you have been caulking this way as a professional, just imagine how much time and effort you have wasted and how much caulk and masking tape you have wasted. Anybody laughing at my approach would be laughing at errors of their approach and see the light and push the caulking gun, saving so much time and materials. It seems you have no concept of the ease and improvement when caulking in the other direction (pushing). Each to their own, the push method is so beneficial. You really should try it. Best wishes
@@ZenMinus I never said I used tape.And it is a FACT that professional caulkers don’t push the gun. If pushing the gun was better we would do it. It is clear that you don’t know the proper way to shoot sealant. I have been caulking all day every day for over 45 years. There are thousands of professional caulkers in the USA and NONE push the gun. Are you so arrogant that you think that guys that caulk all day every day haven’t at least tried things like this? It is an inferior method. Period. You obviously have VERY little experience. Anytime you want to compare work let me know.Just by your comment I can guarantee I will be faster and my results will be orders of magnitude better. I have forgotten more about sealants than you ever knew. When you push the gun you can’t see how much sealant you are putting in the joint. When you pull the gun correctly you can see the sealant as you force it into the joint before it is covered by the tip. ( you don’t pile it up behind the tip) and can control exactly how much you are putting in the joint.I can routinely shoot finished beads that look like they have already been tooled. With VERY little, if any waste. If we wasted material, with the volume of sealant we use it could easily cost thousands of dollars. I’m not a plumber, or glazier,or painter that only caulks sometimes. In fact when large plumbing,glazing, painting and tile setting companies get really big jobs, they sub the caulking to guys like me because we can do it faster and most times better.( there are some people in other trades that can caulk really well,but most can’t. It’s not their main job) Pushing the gun is laughable.It is a very amateur thing to do. There is ZERO benefit and multiple problems with pushing the gun. You have no idea what you are talking about.
I’m only an amateur but Iv silicone a few baths in my time. I find that when removing the tape it take the silicone with it pulling it away from where it needs to be
All my life I've been told to use a wet, soapy finger to smooth out the silicon and lately I see vids of people using a dry finger. Which one is correct?
Always a Wet finger and/or old S.S. spoon. I use 409 as the soapy, wet facilitator before tooling the corners. 409 is the trick for glassy smooth corners.
So I hear silicone will not stick to silicone. I need to definitely do around the bottom (horizonal) of the shower stall as it is lifting, but the sides (vertical) look okay. That said, if silicone does not stick to silicone, can I assume I need to remove it all anyway as it there would be no adhesion /bonding at the point where old and new caulking join? And that would be in a corners where I think water would hit.
Silicone does stick to silicone. You just have to clean it well,as a professional we do it all of the time. Just think of a high rise building. You start on one side and work around the building. If silicone didn’t stick to silicone, by the time you get around the building( sometimes many months later) you could never tie the 2 together
I'm sure plenty of people will find this useful! Fyi there is a hole on the handle of the caulking gun that you can use to cut the tip of the cartridge at angle
Thanks! As for the cutter it really depends on the caulking gun. I've got like 8 guns and only a couple of them have it. I personally don't like to use the cutters in the handles because I've had a few with really dull blades that just ended up chewing up the tip and giving a jagged cut. I find a blade gives me the most control and precision when I'm cutting the tip. If you've got a new gun with a sharp blade the little cutter in the gun is a good option though!
I need to caulk a shower surround where I suspect the water is leaking where the glass wall joins the metal base. Would really appreciate your advice or video demonstration!
Hey Lisa, sorry for my slow reply. So just to clarify the water is leaking between the tile (or tub surround) and the metal track that holds your shower glass in place? The procedure for replacing the silicone caulking is basically the same with a couple of caveats. I'd started by removing the old caulking, but I wouldn't remove all of the caulking at once. The silicone is likely the only thing holding the glass in place, so if you remove it all you're going to have a tough time keeping the glass in position. I'd remove all of the caulking on one surface or one side first. Just scrap it away with a razor blade like I did in this video. Then you could re-caulk that side, let it dry, and repeat the process on the other side. Hopefully that helps!
ACTUALLY! ANSI Standard for ceramic tile installation states that specifically two joining walls (back corners) or any two dissimilar surfaces should have flexible Siliconized Grout (or silicone) so yeah proper grout installation would be that. If you wondered why anyone would use flexible grout or silicone at those locations, sanded grout will just break and pop out over time. Don't use sanded grout there folks.
There is caulk available that matches your grout color for those corners. A properly grouted tile job should always have caulk in the corners or any other place where two planes meet, horizontally and vertically to leave flexible as the grout would be rigid and will crack from the expansion gaps. Good job on the grouting though, pet peeves solved!
@@tomatexelon keracaulk by Mapei comes in sanded and unsanded to match most grout colors. Epoxy grout has a bit more expansion allowance but still no match for silicone in those corners and changes of plane.
Almost all of these are acrylic the absolute lowest quality sealant made and should never be used in wet areas. Always use 100% silicone. I’m a professional caulker and have caulked hundreds of tubs. And our caulking is actually guaranteed.
Tape is a waste of time and leaves a slight ridge, allowing mould to grow on the edge. Best to simply apply a bead of silicon and use a silicon tool to wipe at 45 degree angle so silicon has best seal, and easy to clean! Tape is for losers
Use a soapy spray like Fantastik when dragging your finger along the caulk. Helps get smooth caulking on any application. This, Windows, doors, whatever.
Absolutely wrong. As a professional caulker anyone that did something like this would be fired on the spot. Every major manufacturer says not to use liquids to tool with if you look close enough at their tech manuals. Here is what DOW ( one of the largest silicone manufacturers in the world ) says: “NOTE: Do not use liquid tooling aids such as water,soap or alcohols. These materials will interfere with cure, adhesion and create aesthetic issues.”
How is it the caulk doesnt get jacked up or pull off/out when you pull the tape? Also.... comments infer a bathtub .... stretches... when theres water in it?
Only part of the silicone sits on the tape, the majority is on the gap between the tape lines ie on the wall and bath. The bath doesn’t stretch with water in it, the weight of the water makes it heavier and regardless of how well it’s supported, it moves downwards slightly and can break a silicone seal.
OMG Thanks! The blue tape was a huge help. I never thought to use it. I needed to redo a portion of my tub because mold. But I can never get it decent. The blue tape solved that.
Thanks Rosanne! I can try, but I'd need a good subject to work on first haha. Is it a thin layer of wood that's peeling off of the box? Sometimes you can use an iron on it's lowest heat setting to re-activate the glue and re-attach it to the box
A lot of things going on here. Caulk in corners is on purpose to assist in movement and shifting. Also, if you have mold on your caulk and have cleaned it but keeps coming back then the caulk isn't the problem. Your problem is likely wet wall board behind the tile. Removal of the tile and surround, install waterproof backer board and retile. This is the correct way to fix this problem.
Umm, yes!!! I have many, many other home projects I think you could help teach me how to do... I'm thinking, I'd probably learn best from you if you just came over and showed me. 😁
There isn't one. Opened tube of caulk starts to fail after a few months..you don't want to keep it. It'll get old in the tube and gets all clumpy and ruined. (Like paint does.) This means it won't seal or cure properly when you try to use it. (And that means it doesn't do the job you need it to do.) Just throw it out and buy a new tube later.
I use the finger method also. You're right...gotta wipe it on a rag often.
Ya good point Bruce, maybe I should've really unscored that point. You have to keep your finger very clean all the way through the process!
@@ZacBuilds I used some paper towels because I didn't really have any rags, just hand towels that are still too new to throw away. Seems like it worked.
i like using the finger method too. my girlfriend also says it makes her feel good when i use the finger method.
@@Pingaheimer comic genius!
@@Pingaheimer grow up lol.
This is the fifth and final video I’ve watched to learn how to do this and it’s by far the best. Of course you’re from Toronto, my fellow Canadian. You’ve earned yourself a sub, good sir!
Thanks Marcio, I really appreciate it man!
One helpful tip a friend told me. Half fill the bath with water and then seal. Once dry, empty the tub. This helps to keep the seals in place when having baths. If you seal with an empty bath it can pull the seal away from the wall when filling and expanding slightly
Good call Alan!
@@ZacBuilds great vid, reminds me I need to reseal my bathtub.
My first time watching you. Loved the video. Thank you. We always use the white- love the clear one. Thanks again!
it helps if very new bathtub is installed and is not seated properly
The bath should never pull away at all in the first place, as a plumber a drop in bath should be properly bedded and supported I.e no movement at all.
I like to use a denatured alcohol cleaning after cutting out the old caulking. It helps the tape and caulking to adhere.
Like a boss!
Many installers caulk the vertical corner joints. The idea is that walls sometimes flex and move apart from each other a little bit. Grout will crack and leak, but caulk will handle the flex.
this is true, but using caulking is the wrong product to use. Instead, you can buy actual grout caulking that matches the color of your grout or atleast close to it.
Man I like the idea of using tape that makes life so much easier
Dude, I have to recaulk my tub and I've never done it before, so glad I subscribed after watching some of your other vids.
Well done Zac! Never thought of blue tape and clear caulk for bathrooms. There are plenty of amateurs like myself that appreciate these tips and tricks. Thank you for your time and talent.
Follow up one day later - I used the tape method and a small tube of 100% silicon bath and tub clear caulk. The small tube allows total control and the tape protects both edges. The results are truly amazing, precise amount of clear caulk in the grout joint to seal the tile floor and plastic shower surround. All of the extra caulk just glazed over onto the blue tape. After smoothing and removing the extra caulk with my finger I just pulled off the blue tape. The results are stunning. Perfect clear silicon sheen along the grout line edges.
Only problem with clear caulk is they’ll always see you coming.
I'm a perfectionist and efficiency minded person. The Painters tape fits both of those criteria.
I only use white caulk because I find that clear eventually looks dirty. Once you take the tape off, right after applying the caulk, you should leave it alone and not use your finger to flatten it. When you spread it again like this it creates a thin edge, and that thin edge will lift after awhile of exposure to water and the mold will start again sooner than you can imagine. Just saying, its a good video, but this is what I have found out regarding methods. You should always caulk the corners since there needs to be a bit of give in this area and that is what silocone offers.
i was thinking of using black silicone and grout, because it will never look dirty and it goes with the dark grey tiles the mrs picked out
clear gets moldy it doesn't matter if is roof & gutter, or for internal use
@@debeeriz I have charcoal grout and it gets white stains 🤦🏼♀️
Any color will look dirty eventually
Very true indeed. I usually filled the tub halfway with water before caulking, so it can “expand” and cured better.
Thanks so much for taking the time to make this video. I’m a single mom and hate having to pay for simple repairs I can do myself. You step by step technique is informative and easy! Wish me luck on my own tubs and showers!
Zac, late to the video but I did a great caulking job that went bad as I hadn't weighed down the tub while it went off. I had water leaks down to my kitchen. I had to remove it all and weigh down the tub with heavy books and some weights. My daughter's new build house had the exact same problem. It's a lesson I won't forget, great videos fella!
The problem WAS NOT caused by not weighing down the tub. It was caused by poor installation. I’m a professional caulker and have caulked 100s of tubs. Weighing it down is ridiculous. The purpose of the sealant is to move as the tub moves
Nice instruct and teaching style, thanx. I read someone said to dip finger in alcohol before you run it along the silicone as it prevents much from sticking on your finger. For me the silicone is unbearably icky sticky and I am gearing up to doing an old old shower stall very cramped and needing a lot of digging out old caulk which was applied atop of previous ... who knew?
Pro Tip: use babywhipes to clean your finger and other things. the oil will prevent new silicone to stick to that surface aswell
Also for areas where the old caulk is super stuck, goo be gone is super helpful.
Aha! I'm a first-time homeowner and noticed a gap in my caulk in one area, and plenty of moldy caulk in others. I knew it wasn't a crazy thing to DIY and your video makes me feel like I could really do it myself!
Nice job. I just started seeking out videos on how to do this…I’ve found there are few contractors available in my area for these types of jobs. So, I’m hoping I can do this job myself. This is the second video I’ve watched. I like your attention to detail AND the painters tape use is a great idea for a novice like me. Thanks!
Happy to help Kimberly good luck on the job!
Thank you for the video! I'm going to get working on the caulking around my bathtub which the previous owner did such a bad job. I'm excited!
In my experience, it is important to remove the tape as soon as possible, because if you wait too long, when you pull the tape away it lifts an edge along the caulking. That being said, I always use tape when caulking, nice clean straight lines.
Thank you. Question. Same setup as your. For the bathtub meeting the wall tile. Can you use grout. Let it rest. Then put clear silicone on it? Thank you
Thanks for this video. I was able to successfully re-caulk our shower.
Hi, really liked the video. Did you ever do a video for the grid lines?
Unfortunately I didn't, I moved out of that place shortly after recording this video and never got a chance
Cramer Fugi kit. Save you so much time and so neat.
Thanks for this Zac. This is one of my "covid" projects. Love the tape idea!
You're very welcome Barbara! This was one of my very first Covid Projects and I'm so glad I did it, makes the space feel a lot nicer!
Thanks brotha. I gotta do my mother's shower and I've never done this before. Its just to make it last til she gets it done completely and RIGHT...lol. It might not even fix the problem shes having but ima do it anyway just in case
Anyone else drooling over Zac’s rain shower head aching to see that install?
Haha thanks Mimi! Many people have asked why I have a giant mirror in my bathroom not realizing it's a rain head.
I could do a video on it, but it would be REALLY quick. It's just unscrew the old one and screw that one on. I bought it off of Amazon too, super cheap and I'm suprised at how good the quality is considering the price. amzn.to/34YU8zq
It might be worth leaving a dehumidifier running over night before you start sealing to make sure a lot of the moisture has been taken from the room. Nice job though I will definitely be doing this.
i always taped and caulked for that perfect line, but it takes way too long. Mix some detergent with water in a spray bottle, apply the silicone, spray the area with the solution, wipe clean with your finger. Works perfectly and much much faster than taping.
Get a Cramer Fugi kit, best tools for silicone.
You can use glass cleaner, and pro glass installers do it this way.
@@JoeVengencenot good glass installers. Never use any liquid as a tooling agent.
Every major manufacturer says not to use liquids to tool with if you look close enough at their tech manuals. Here is what DOW ( one of the largest silicone manufacturers in the world ) says: “NOTE: Do not use liquid tooling aids such as water,soap or alcohols. These materials will interfere with cure, adhesion and create aesthetic issues.”
Nice, thanks for sharing! how did u clean the water stain stuff? what kind of vac cleaner it is? dyson? how much does a charge hold up? it looks to have good suction....none of mine have had good suction, trying to find a useful one....i tried some sharp or Dyson, suction was not that good..expensive, and battery life was like 30 min after charging for hrs.
Thanks for watching! I cleaned all the water stain stuff just by scrubbing with a damp rav, and the vacuum is pretty good for carpet and floors but for general purpose stuff it isn't great. Especially for the price. Battery life mostly depends on which setting you have it on. Max suction kills the battery quick, like less than 10 min
@@ZacBuilds Thanks for your help. Grt training. I just preped mine and will finish it next couple of days. thanks again for answering my qs as well!
Easiest method for this. Apply the silicon and use a fondant thing, I don't know the exact name but it has a ball on the end, run that across the caulk. The the sides of the caulk will peel right off after it dries and you don't have to tape anything
Dang. I should have watched this first. The painter’s tape is good.
wow ! honesty is the best medicine! I like how you admitted that you don't really know what you're doing :) nice editing ! :)
Thank you, Zac. We have a fiberglass shower enclosure and can't find a caulk that will adhere to it. Do you have any recommendations? Although the enclosure is clean, it looks awful where the sides of the enclosure meet the bottom. Thank you in advance for any advice.
I think this is my issue as well, but I don't see an answer to your comment, although the comment by John Schenck above sounds a bit like our issue?
This is for people who never have done this before
The only thing you need is a rag, a wet finger and practice
Practice, practice, practice is the only way!
Wet finger? Stick it up ya arse! Leaves a crap seal with minimal adhesion. Simply apply at 45 degree angle for a perfect seal which is easy to clean, rookie.
This is hilarious. Anyone that really does much of this would never use a wet finger.
Every major manufacturer says not to use liquids to tool with if you look close enough at their tech manuals. Here is what DOW ( one of the largest silicone manufacturers in the world ) says: “NOTE: Do not use liquid tooling aids such as water,soap or alcohols. These materials will interfere with cure, adhesion and create aesthetic issues.
It is amazing when very unknowledgeable people act as though they are experts.
There are caulking tools that work perfectly for that job without the need to mask anything off. If people use care, and common sense they can have a professional looking job done.
Exactly what I posted! a professional doesnt use a finger. That caulk gun is the cheapest type aswell get a non drip gun
@@Daniel-wb4lr - Actually, I disagree. We had ours done by a professional several years ago, and he used his finger. (Didn't use tape, though.)
l was told to use a gloved finger as its the oils on your finger that promotes mould,and never use masking tape as it leaves a blunt edge but as you smooth it over after removing the tape that should feather the edges, and l have just splashed out for some sealant profile tools, not knowing l had 5 on each hand
heat gun low to med heat (keep it moving) makes it a lot easier to remove old chalk.
I'll give that a try! Thanks Douglas
I’ve seen a blow dryer used also to soften.
When I learned to tile Was told to caulk the corners after cleaning grout out of the corner. Grout in corners almost always cracks.
Did you ever do a grout repair video? I have the same issue this video shows and nothing I have tried works to clean it off.
excellent advice on applying the silicone as about to do the same but i have to ask why the mirror up n the corner ? hiding video camera ?
WD40 helps take off the old silicon really well too. I always give it a nice coat, then go at it with a blade. Just need to make sure all excess residue is gone before you re-caulk. Hope that helps someone fighting with old mouldy bits of silicone out there!
Using wd 40 is a very bad idea. It contaminates porous surfaces. I’m a professional caulker and if their was WD 40 we are required to mechanically abrade( grind) the bonding surface.
Super and Great Tips , now weekend is busy.!!!
I’ve never seen anyone else (besides myself) tape prep for caulk , been doing this for years . My neighbor looked at me like I was an alien 1st time he saw me do this !
That's probably because using a thin bead + a wet finger does exactly the same thing but you don't waste 1/2 hour taping everything. I can't understand why he is doing this to be honest. (And it's *clear* caulk to begin with.) He did do a nice job but you absolutely don't have to do this to get good looking results with caulk. (clear or white)
ok, Zac. Here I go. I got the old caulk out, cleaned everything and ready to tape. This was supposed to be my day off !
Plz don't follow this video. The bloke is a complete amateur. You will ruin your bathroom
@Rackz FN I'm a bathroom fitter by trade so it's my day job 😂. If you want to know how to silicone watch plumber parts uk video
@Rackz FN ruclips.net/video/4um0tHqelmk/видео.html
Oh my yes!! I need this!! Where did u get the razor tool? Ty!
They sell them at basically all big box home reno stores like Lowes and Home Depot
@@ZacBuilds ty soo much
Most caulk guns have a whole in the handle and inside the handle will be a blade that will cut the top off. Nice video.
Tipp..take a cup of water put some drops dish soap in..mix it and dipp your finger in and go on the end over the silicon..this makes the job much easier.
There is a special soap for working with silicone. Google it, use that and your sillicone will thank you.
@CountryStranger wrong
Every major manufacturer says not to use liquids to tool with if you look close enough at their tech manuals. Here is what DOW ( one of the largest silicone manufacturers in the world ) says: “NOTE: Do not use liquid tooling aids such as water,soap or alcohols. These materials will interfere with cure, adhesion and create aesthetic issues.”
Never do that.
Every major manufacturer says not to use liquids to tool with if you look close enough at their tech manuals. Here is what DOW ( one of the largest silicone manufacturers in the world ) says: “NOTE: Do not use liquid tooling aids such as water,soap or alcohols. These materials will interfere with cure, adhesion and create aesthetic issues.”
Silicone is actually the better option for tile corners. It allows for expansion and contraction. Grouted corners will crack.
I learned an even better trick 30 years ago in my cabinet building years: apply your bead of silicone caulk uniformly (no messy blobs), then spray denatured alcohol on the silicone and surrounding surface, finally use your finger to wipe down your bead. A perfect bead every time, (unless you have voids in the bead where the alcohol got in behind the silicone). The silicone will not adhere to any surface, including your hands that has denatured alcohol on it. The alcohol evaporates in a short period of time. Nice looking, evenly tooled bead every time.
ABSOLUTELY WRONG
Every major manufacturer says not to use liquids to tool with if you look close enough at their tech manuals. Here is what DOW ( one of the largest silicone manufacturers in the world ) says: NOTE: Do not use liquid tooling aids such as water,soap or alcohols. These materials will interfere with cure, adhesion and create aesthetic issues
Anyone that did this on a jobsite would be fired on the spot. This is one of the main reasons homeowners have to replace their sealants so often.
Is that high corner mirror for adding light in the shower?
Pretty sure that's his shower head.
You can clean your grout lines with toilet bowl cleaner. The gel works the best, apply and let sit for awhile, clean it off.
Hey thanks! You were great in lord of the rings!
Caulking at changes of planes loke walls and at the tub is not only good practice but required in many areas. If you pick the right color its invisible anyway.
Do you have to chip away the old one or an you just fill the cracks
Nice tape trick. I like to "push" silicone, rather than "pull' it. Tub o full of water - as mentioned elsewhere is also the way to go.
Thanks, this was very helpful. I'm pretty bad at home repairs and I've done some very bad caulk jobs in the past, but this really helped me get it right.
One thing, I'm guessing that last pass with your finger after you take off the tape is supposed to be softer, right? I did the first part with the same amount of pressure as when the tape was on and it made it look pretty rough.
Hey! Happy to help, and that's a good question. I probably should've been more clear in the video.
Yes, that last pass is generally a bit softer than all of the other passes with your finger. You're just trying to smooth out those hard edge that were left when you were removed the tape. Hopefully that's a little more clear!
Is one tube of silicon enough for a bath tub that size?
you dont ever grout 90° angles, the grout will crack as they expand and contract. Thats why they caulked the corners.
Well, what would you use for cleaning the area before applying caulk?
To be honest, I was just very meticulous when removing the old caulk with my knife, however you might also want to give the whole area a rub down with rubbing alcohol to remove any old silicone residue.
Thanks for the straight line tape tip!
Out of curiosity, never caulked before, how long should you let the tub dry before and after? In my case I have an older tub with sliding doors. And the people who remodeled the apartment did NOT clean the mildew from underneath the shower door frame. So them immediately upon me using said shower/tub the caulking came loose and, well....it's disgusting. How do I clean that? Am I right in assuming the caulking came off because it wasn't cleaned properly? Forgive my ignorance.
Laura
Baby wipes for excessive silicone clean up, also cleans up drips
Another great video. Very informative. I think my next project will be.........convincing my husband that he needs to do this! Stay safe Zac!
Thanks Martha! Hopefully my video is helpful for him :)
I like to dip my finger in water with washing up liquid in it. Give a really good smooth finish and wipes off your finger afterwards very easily.
Do I know you Ian? This is ReGina. Sorry but I seen the Robertshaw.... lol
@@reginamartin8219 hi Regina. I don’t we do know each other. I’m sure I would remember someone with such a beautiful name. Thanks for liking my comment.
Can you use paper towel (dampened I presume) to go over the new silicone caulk and wipe your fingers rather than a cloth you then have to throw away?
Good question Kate, and yes you can, but it's not ideal. The reason I saw that is paper towel usually tends to give off little flakes of dusty, when you're wiping your sticky finger on them those little bits of dust will stick to your finger. Then you'll transfer those bits of dust to your fresh caulk lines. Probably not the end of the world, but it would be better to use a lint/dust free towel. Hope that helps!
Try a baby wipe
Thank you , best lesson I’ve seen. I never thought to use clear on the tub.
My pleasure Norma!
Can you please do one on re setting a toilet roll holder or any wall fixtures where it's fall off and left big holes so you can't screw it back in
Correct me if Im wrong but arent you supposed to fill the tub with water because the weight could possibly cause the tub to shift and create gaps that are too small to see but not too small for mold to get into??. Idk if its true but its what i have always done and i havent had a mold issue yet.
You are corrected. As a professional I have caulked hundreds of tubs. Filling the tub with water is an amateur myth that actually accomplishes nothing
People with experience and skills don't need the tape approach. For us normal people it is critical for a nice result. Highly recommended.
I have used this method several times where things are so crooked and offset and every time I tried from begging I failed to do a good job, regardless the experience.
I am a professional caulker for over 45 years. It is true that in this instance I would not tape. But using tape IS a valid technique. It is exactly what I would tell a homeowner to do.👍
If you’re doing the wet finger rag method wtf do you need $12 in painters tape?
What if the gap tis really wide between the tile and the tub? It seems as though whoever put the bathtub in didn't do a great job. Thank you Zac.
That's a tricky situation Nicoelle, how big of a gap are we talking about here?
Thanks for this. Using the painters tape was a life saver.
Are you can skip all that tape and put the caulk on and spray it with Windex and wipe it off the caulk want stick to the index on the wall are tub. try it
This tool works much better
How about how to apply shiplap to a kitchen island or a wall? 😊
I'll add that to my list of potential videos Janette!
Grouted corners will crack.
Why? It’s Silicone
So many people apply silicone or acrylic sealer "backwards"! The net result is that most of the sealer is in a bead on the OUTSIDE of the join and MOST of the sealer gets wiped off during cleanup.
The correct way is to cut the tip so that the widest point of the angled cut is JUST wider than the gap to fill. The most important part of this process is to PUSH the sealant FORWARD ahead of the caulking gun to "force" the sealant into the join. The correctly cut (angled) tip provides the radius on the finished surface, with minimum "spill" on the surrounding surfaces.
Doing it this way saves so much time in clean up and saves so much time in NOT applying masking tape (and the COST of the masking tape).
Finish the job with a quick wipe with a moist cloth (moist with water or suitable silicone cleaner). Minimum waste of sealer, clean fingers and keep your masking tape for other jobs :-)
^ this, videos shows the wrong way of doing it. Always go forwards.
Also, never had to tape around, this is a recipe for disaster : if you spill some silicone on it, when you'll remove the tape, goodbye silicone.
I’m a professional caulker and if someone pushed the gun they would be laughed off of the job. ANYTHING you can do pushing the gun you can do pulling the gun by simply angling the tip correctly. And you can see what you are doing.This is a fact. BTW. I have installed, very conservatively, over 100 MILES of sealant.
@@genecarden780 professional? I don't think so. If you have been caulking this way as a professional, just imagine how much time and effort you have wasted and how much caulk and masking tape you have wasted.
Anybody laughing at my approach would be laughing at errors of their approach and see the light and push the caulking gun, saving so much time and materials.
It seems you have no concept of the ease and improvement when caulking in the other direction (pushing).
Each to their own, the push method is so beneficial. You really should try it.
Best wishes
@@ZenMinus I never said I used tape.And it is a FACT that professional caulkers don’t push the gun. If pushing the gun was better we would do it. It is clear that you don’t know the proper way to shoot sealant. I have been caulking all day every day for over 45 years. There are thousands of professional caulkers in the USA and NONE push the gun. Are you so arrogant that you think that guys that caulk all day every day haven’t at least tried things like this? It is an inferior method. Period. You obviously have VERY little experience. Anytime you want to compare work let me know.Just by your comment I can guarantee I will be faster and my results will be orders of magnitude better. I have forgotten more about sealants than you ever knew. When you push the gun you can’t see how much sealant you are putting in the joint. When you pull the gun correctly you can see the sealant as you force it into the joint before it is covered by the tip. ( you don’t pile it up behind the tip) and can control exactly how much you are putting in the joint.I can routinely shoot finished beads that look like they have already been tooled. With VERY little, if any waste. If we wasted material, with the volume of sealant we use it could easily cost thousands of dollars. I’m not a plumber, or glazier,or painter that only caulks sometimes. In fact when large plumbing,glazing, painting and tile setting companies get really big jobs, they sub the caulking to guys like me because we can do it faster and most times better.( there are some people in other trades that can caulk really well,but most can’t. It’s not their main job) Pushing the gun is laughable.It is a very amateur thing to do. There is ZERO benefit and multiple problems with pushing the gun. You have no idea what you are talking about.
I’m only an amateur but Iv silicone a few baths in my time. I find that when removing the tape it take the silicone with it pulling it away from where it needs to be
Waiting too long to pull it.
All my life I've been told to use a wet, soapy finger to smooth out the silicon and lately I see vids of people using a dry finger. Which one is correct?
100% wet finger, soap prevents silicon from sticking everywhere
Dry...
Always a Wet finger and/or old S.S. spoon. I use 409 as the soapy, wet facilitator before tooling the corners. 409 is the trick for glassy smooth corners.
@@ddbutikofer825, dry
@@josophschmo1585 25 years [retired] installing automatic doors, wet.
So I hear silicone will not stick to silicone. I need to definitely do around the bottom (horizonal) of the shower stall as it is lifting, but the sides (vertical) look okay. That said, if silicone does not stick to silicone, can I assume I need to remove it all anyway as it there would be no adhesion /bonding at the point where old and new caulking join? And that would be in a corners where I think water would hit.
Silicone does stick to silicone. You just have to clean it well,as a professional we do it all of the time. Just think of a high rise building. You start on one side and work around the building. If silicone didn’t stick to silicone, by the time you get around the building( sometimes many months later) you could never tie the 2 together
Thank you for the great tutorial!
How long must you not use the shower after application of caulk?
Every silicone is different, it usually says on the tube. 24 hrs is a good rule of thumb though
I'm sure plenty of people will find this useful! Fyi there is a hole on the handle of the caulking gun that you can use to cut the tip of the cartridge at angle
Thanks! As for the cutter it really depends on the caulking gun. I've got like 8 guns and only a couple of them have it. I personally don't like to use the cutters in the handles because I've had a few with really dull blades that just ended up chewing up the tip and giving a jagged cut. I find a blade gives me the most control and precision when I'm cutting the tip. If you've got a new gun with a sharp blade the little cutter in the gun is a good option though!
Can you do a video on how to replace bathroom cabinet doors, with damaged hinges, without replacing the entire cabinet?
Great technique! I wish I've seen this video before I did my bathroom, but I will surely follow what you did the next time. Thanks for sharing!
Can you link the caulking seal + gun, please? It's not in your tools link.
I need to caulk a shower surround where I suspect the water is leaking where the glass wall joins the metal base. Would really appreciate your advice or video demonstration!
Hey Lisa, sorry for my slow reply. So just to clarify the water is leaking between the tile (or tub surround) and the metal track that holds your shower glass in place?
The procedure for replacing the silicone caulking is basically the same with a couple of caveats. I'd started by removing the old caulking, but I wouldn't remove all of the caulking at once. The silicone is likely the only thing holding the glass in place, so if you remove it all you're going to have a tough time keeping the glass in position. I'd remove all of the caulking on one surface or one side first. Just scrap it away with a razor blade like I did in this video. Then you could re-caulk that side, let it dry, and repeat the process on the other side.
Hopefully that helps!
An awesome video, great taping idea. Thanks Zac.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Fantastic video to guide us newbies through this! 🥳 About to get going with this today! 💪
Glad I could help, good luck!
ACTUALLY! ANSI Standard for ceramic tile installation states that specifically two joining walls (back corners) or any two dissimilar surfaces should have flexible Siliconized Grout (or silicone) so yeah proper grout installation would be that. If you wondered why anyone would use flexible grout or silicone at those locations, sanded grout will just break and pop out over time. Don't use sanded grout there folks.
Right on man.
There is caulk available that matches your grout color for those corners. A properly grouted tile job should always have caulk in the corners or any other place where two planes meet, horizontally and vertically to leave flexible as the grout would be rigid and will crack from the expansion gaps. Good job on the grouting though, pet peeves solved!
Humm, I’m installing large tile in my bathroom now, and was looking into Epoxy Grout everything. It’s NOT flexible.
@@tomatexelon keracaulk by Mapei comes in sanded and unsanded to match most grout colors. Epoxy grout has a bit more expansion allowance but still no match for silicone in those corners and changes of plane.
Almost all of these are acrylic the absolute lowest quality sealant made and should never be used in wet areas. Always use 100% silicone. I’m a professional caulker and have caulked hundreds of tubs. And our caulking is actually guaranteed.
Now. If I could only lay down a straight line of tape.😖😪
The nice thing about tape is that you can lay it down multiple times until you get it right :)
Will take you a whole day to do that. Keep it simple
@@ZacBuilds think people will be using on you after they ruin there bathroom thks to you and the worst silicone job on RUclips
Tape is a waste of time and leaves a slight ridge, allowing mould to grow on the edge. Best to simply apply a bead of silicon and use a silicon tool to wipe at 45 degree angle so silicon has best seal, and easy to clean! Tape is for losers
@@keithreynolos1045 u sound like a really nice person
What about curves? Like the base of the toilet?
Use a soapy spray like Fantastik when dragging your finger along the caulk. Helps get smooth caulking on any application. This, Windows, doors, whatever.
Absolutely wrong. As a professional caulker anyone that did something like this would be fired on the spot.
Every major manufacturer says not to use liquids to tool with if you look close enough at their tech manuals. Here is what DOW ( one of the largest silicone manufacturers in the world ) says: “NOTE: Do not use liquid tooling aids such as water,soap or alcohols. These materials will interfere with cure, adhesion and create aesthetic issues.”
How is it the caulk doesnt get jacked up or pull off/out when you pull the tape? Also.... comments infer a bathtub .... stretches... when theres water in it?
Only part of the silicone sits on the tape, the majority is on the gap between the tape lines ie on the wall and bath. The bath doesn’t stretch with water in it, the weight of the water makes it heavier and regardless of how well it’s supported, it moves downwards slightly and can break a silicone seal.
OMG Thanks! The blue tape was a huge help. I never thought to use it. I needed to redo a portion of my tub because mold. But I can never get it decent. The blue tape solved that.
Great video! We need to do exactly that in our bathroom.
Can u put up a video on how to repair wood cabinets peeling on side edges above stove area?
Thanks Rosanne! I can try, but I'd need a good subject to work on first haha. Is it a thin layer of wood that's peeling off of the box? Sometimes you can use an iron on it's lowest heat setting to re-activate the glue and re-attach it to the box
@@ZacBuildsparticle board has water damage on edges from steam causing it to fray or puff up
A lot of things going on here. Caulk in corners is on purpose to assist in movement and shifting. Also, if you have mold on your caulk and have cleaned it but keeps coming back then the caulk isn't the problem. Your problem is likely wet wall board behind the tile. Removal of the tile and surround, install waterproof backer board and retile. This is the correct way to fix this problem.
Umm, yes!!! I have many, many other home projects I think you could help teach me how to do... I'm thinking, I'd probably learn best from you if you just came over and showed me. 😁
Zac, enjoyed your video. May I ask what is the best way to store opened tube of silicon so to re-use it later?
Put a screw or small nail in the tip. When you want to use it again just take the nail out. 👍
There isn't one. Opened tube of caulk starts to fail after a few months..you don't want to keep it. It'll get old in the tube and gets all clumpy and ruined. (Like paint does.) This means it won't seal or cure properly when you try to use it. (And that means it doesn't do the job you need it to do.) Just throw it out and buy a new tube later.
Great video! But why didn't you wear gloves while removing the moldy caulking?
Thanks Alicia and good point, whenever you're working with mold or a blade it's a good idea to glove up.
Gloves are bulky & with a fiddly bit of silicon it’s harder to grab or pinch. Think about it for a second....