Watch crystal - replacing / repairing / polishing - Part 1of5
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- Опубликовано: 1 фев 2022
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Tools:
Robur (Older type press)
Bergeon 5500 (New type press)
Vigor-Bergeon 4266 / Bergeon 6400
Compounds:
Polywatch
Dialux Yellow (plastics)
Dialux Red (Gold/Silver and plastic high gloss)
Crystal Brands:
Sternkreuz
Robur
Stella
Seiko
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Very exiting for us to do, no editing just live watchmaking. Anything can go wrong at any time!
Tutorial on watchmaking by watchmaker Kalle Slaap from Chronoglide Vintage Watch repair specialists near Amsterdam.
Live stream on RUclips every Tuesday 20:30 (CET/Amsterdam time)
Please ask any question (AMA) in the live chat.
@ChronoglideWatchmaking
Hi Kalle, one important point regarding the celluloid watch crystals that are prone to becoming discoloured (yellow usually) with age.
The celluloid is made of something for which the chemical name is cellulose nitrate.
When the cellulose nitrate is exposed to UV light and becomes discoloured, it off-gasses as part of the chemical decomposition process.
The gases it gives off when it decomposes are nitrogen oxides. There are reactive and corrosive gases, which upon contact with moisture become nitric acid and nitrous acid.
The gases themselves and the acids they form in contact with moisture will attack and corrode any exposed steel or iron they come into contact with.
This is why you will find that the hands on watches with a yellowed crystal have a rusted appearance. In more severe cases, the cannon pinion, motion works and keyless works also show corrosion due to these gases.
So as attractive as the vintage look of a yellowed crystal is to some people (I like it too), all celluloid crystals should be replaced to prevent damage to the hands and the other steel parts closest to the dial.
There are many resources online which will confirm what I’m saying. The damage these crystals do is very real and you will immediately start noticing a correlation between yellowed watch crystals and corrosion on the hands and possibly the steelwork under the dial.
I’ve been told that even the steel parts on the other side of the movement can become corroded due to this, but have not yet witnessed it myself.
Thank you for all of the fantastic content, I really appreciate your RUclips channel.
It was delightful to hear (9:55) those church bells in the background, reminding me of times spent in Holland ages ago. Your videos are so instructive, many thanks.
I am new to watchmaking. Like it or not, Chronoglide is my school. I will watch every single video. You are a good teacher. My only wish is to show exactly how each crystal or repair is done on a watch and how the tool is used. Thank you!
Kalle - your English really is superb! Excellent walkthrough
If you leave the watch off the wrist to adjust to ambient temperature, and then hold it against the forehead, you can determine if it is sapphire by the much cooler feeling. In fact sapphire will feel almost icy! It's not actually cooler of course, but it feels it. Sapphire has a much higher heat transfer than mineral, or glass. The effect is that it draws the heat out of the skin faster and therefore feels cooler.
Nice idea! Plastics like Acrylic (PMMA) and celluloid would be warmer still, since the specific heat-and conduction are much lower than glass.
yes, I think there are even digital testers that use the heat transfer to determine if the crystal is sapphire or plastic.
Kalle only one hint ;) If you have brown plastic usualy because of UV you can put it in the peroxide dioxide and after that put under UV or at the sun and usually it will be white clear.
Since the acrylic “off gasses” & turns it yellow, can the yellow be polished off off the surfaces or is the yellowing throughout the crystal? If it is possible to remove the yellow, does that typically harm the if value if the rest of the watch is left original?
If it smokes when you hold it over a flame it is plastic :)
Where do I get that Robur Crystal Watch Press? I can't seem to find it anywhere online.
Can you use a stone tester to help indicate sapphire?
Hi Kalle, weer een super video! An unrelated question: Do you know where I can buy proper pegwood in The Netherlands? Do you have the golden tip for me? Thank you!
Knowing what tools we can get away with buying chinese vs quality swiss is important to me as a hobbyist. It seems a simple press and dies you can get away with buying chinese, although I would love a $500 Ropur press and dies. Thank you for your professional looking videos. Again, I am still needing to know what type of microscope to buy. I don't need and exact model, just a type. I would like to record video through the microscope as I would have no idea how to assemble a watch movement without referencing the disassembly video. Thank you !!!!
I'm new to watchmaking. You may already have a video on this but I'm having trouble figuring out what movement I have. Where do I get the info and what numbers do I need from the watch.
I had the same issue and found it under the balance cock. It can also be on the main plate. Hope this helps.
Kalle, do
You have concern over radium in these old watches?
That is a real concern Walther, I’ll do a special about it. Great idea, thnx!
The cheap Chinese diamond testers, less than €20 will show if it is Sapphire or mineral