Here it is 2024 and your video is still helping people. I'm working on my dad's 2008 Silverado which needs a front wheel hub/bearing. Thanks from Wisconsin where we have rust too. OY!
Very well done. I try to do as much of the work on my vehicles as I can, so I end up watching a lot of RUclips tutorials. I have to say your videos rank near the top. Your clear and thorough demonstration and commentary is much appreciated - a true standout!
Nice, has to be one of the best front wheel bearing change outs I have seen on RUclips. Should be very helpful to those who have never done it before. 🛠️👍
Thank you so much. You help save me over 850 bucks by putting this video up. 2 hours and got my truck repaired at a time we didn't need to spend 996.00 which was the quote. Kudos for a job well done sir!
This is precisely why I like to put these kinds of videos up. I love helping people fix their own equipment, and if that saves them money - even better. Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment, I really appreciate it! Have a good day!
Thank you! I just changed the front left on my 2009 1500 Silverado and will do the other side tomorrow. It pays to turn off the radio once in a while and just listen, that's when I heard a slight grinding noise. I'm at 91K on the truck and it's the first time they been changed. Thanks for the video, I watched it throughout the process. Very Helpful.
I have a 2wd Sierra. Your video was very helpful. It helped me confirm what turned out to be the problem and clearly showed the repair. The only difference between 2wd and 4wd was the hub nut from the CV, other than that, easy enough fix with your help. Thanks!
Jamey Landry Glad this video helped you! We don't see too many 2wd trucks in these parts, so I forgot to mention that the process was similar for 2wd models. Thanks for taking the time to post a comment!
What a great VID! I wish I should DIY it before my 2009 Avalanche Left hub bearing failed last Christmas . I had no choose went to the dealership due to heavy snow condition, took them 4 hours to replace with a new hub. ($1000 CAD job+parts). After I found out they use impact gun to unbolt the bolts and make a hole on my CV boot now the grease spinned everywhere on my front wheel! I injected back lots of grease through the small hole and sealed it using silicon RTV sealant. Hopefully it will work. I just done replaceing the right wheel hub bearing myself, thant for the VID again! Subscribed!
Great video ! Just had the same job done by a dealership... and cost me a bundle ! Wish I Knew that I could have done it! Who ever said ya can't teach an old dog ... ...... When the left wheel bearing goes,I'll do the next one Thank You !!!!!
I don’t envy those of you on the east coast or the Midwest. We have corrosion issues in coastal Alaska, but nothing like the “chemically enhanced” corrosion that you have! Glad you were able to get it done, though!
Junior Chavez yes it is a pretty straightforward job. Takes some time the first time you do one, especially if rust is an issue in your location. But definitely doable by a DIY'er. Thanks for stopping by!
Thanks, very well paced: I could follow along and work alongside. You are very clear, and patient. Your video saved me a lot of money. I replaced the rotor while I was at it. Thanks for the tip on replacing both, but I will wait until it starts making noise.
Excellent video every step was shown and explained perfectly. I am not complaining because everything was done so well, but you do say "i will go ahead" unnecessarily, so many times.
so much for asking help on this,forum. 3 days and no response to my question. I ended p replacing g both wheel hub and will try tomorrow. By the way despite what ypu they say on RUclips, the axle nut is a 35mm.not 36 mm and using 36m will damage the nut.
Hello Akjeeper I have 2008 GMC Sierra SLE. I hear noise from front drier side.Humming noise sounds like snowbirds at 35mph and up gets louder as speed goes up. Goes away if zi make a right turn comes back in straight and left turn. I did the shake and spin test, I don't Har noise from right front perhaps slight movement if I shake it in horizontal x axis. not noticeable much. I can see any tie rod movement. On the,left side no movement in x or y axis. When ip on the ack and turning. I hear noise like rubber . I have changed the booth about a month ago.Basically took out the axle , removed outer cv. cleaned inspected and pit back with fresh grease. It was moving freely inn all direction. I don't think it's the cv but I am not sure. If this,sound is from wheel hub, RUclips guys say its from right hub not left. I bought two new wheel hub assembly, but want to make sure thus is the,problem before replacing. Your video was excellent. I don't hear noise anywhere close to the one you fixed. Please advise I you can today as I am planning to do the change tomorrow. not sure how I would see your reply. Thank you very much
I’ve lost count of how many of these I’ve done in my shop. A few of them have been a major pain in the butt due to corrosion (vehicles that originally came from the Midwest or northeast). But generally these come apart without too much fuss.
My 2012 silverado just had two back to back failures and im seeing that the hub nut wants to keep coming loose. I torqued everything to spec aswell. Any idea?
Specifically for the spindle, I hear some say not to use never seize and only use bearing grease. Can you tell me which is correct and why? I need to due this on my truck this weekend. Thanks for great detailed video!
Do you have a video for replacing 2008 Silverado 1500 cv axle? I will be replacing both the wheel bearing and cv axle at the same time. Excellent job on the wheel bearing replacement video!
I don't currently have a video on replacing the CV axle shafts on these trucks. I'll try and film a video the next time I have one of these trucks in for that. Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment!
Do you live in the rust belt? I find that I have to break out the air hammer on vehicles from the Midwest and northeast. They use way more corrosive ice melt on the roads in those locations than we do in Alaska.
humming noise from driverside at speeds higher than25mph and sounds like snow tire.I don't have snow tires just all season and had them rotate and balance 2 days ago. I don't see any tiered movement or ball joint movement.
On my own personal vehicle, I try to change these out in pairs. I’ll also check the brakes and if they are close to being worn, I’ll do them at this time as well. I don’t like working on my own car, so if I can tackle several jobs all in one, I’ll do that so the intervals between repairs is extended as much as possible.
tontaiameriki Yes. As a matter of good practice, anytime you touch calipers regardless if you fully compress the piston(s) or not - pump up the brake pedal. You can do it vehicle running or not.
This just happened to me to dad but as the cold it's not being friendly maybe to mean jumps just wondering if I can get your opinion thank you for your kindness and time
Yes, worn out wheel bearings on these vehicles could cause ABS wheel speed sensor problems which would set codes and illuminate the ABS/traction control lights. The truck in this video had random occurrences of the ABS light illuminating which were solved once new wheel bearing assemblies were installed. Always do a visual inspection and try to get the codes read before throwing parts at your vehicle, though.
CODY MORRIS Nope. Just typical rust causing the factory powder coating to flake off. Vehicles get super rusty in coastal Alaska. Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment!
You're very welcome. These generally aren't too hard of a hard job for a DIY'er, unless you live in a salty/rusty type of environment. Feels good to do your own work and save money, right?
The truck in this video did not have ABS codes, but it is very common for ABS codes to show up when the bearings go bad. I had another truck in the shop similar to this one recently where the ABS codes were directly related to a bad set of wheel bearings.
They typically start making noise that gets progressively worse as they wear out more. You can also spin the wheel by hand and listen for any noises, and check the bearing for play by shaking the tire/wheel at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock position. The first two minutes of the video show the noise emitted by this truck's bearing, and I also show how I tested the bearings for play.
Hey man I had a question.. i have the Same truck with a 6 inch lift.. and like 3 months ago it started to shake really bad while going 60mph So I thought it was the tires So I bought new 33 inch tires for a 20x12 wheel And I have a 2 inch spacer all around as well Well anyways After the first violent shake I had I immediately took it to a mechanic and replaced new rotors / brake pads / brake calipers and outer tie rods And balance tires and aligned the truck So it almost went away Now it only shakes at 40-45mph But anything lower or higher it’s smooth And I can’t figure out what’s wrong with it The shake gets annoying since I’m always driving 40-45 mph I can feel it in my steering wheel And more to the left side of the truck to ... Any ideas 💡 thanks
bowtie 5.3 I’ve come across a lot of issues with wheel spacers. Can you fit your wheels on your truck without using the spacers? If so, try that and see if the vibration goes away. What I’ve seen happen is that a perfectly balanced tire/wheel assembly doesn’t fit quite true to the hub when a wheel spacer is involved, so you’ll get a shake (sometimes violent) as a result. If the vibes continue even without the spacers, rotate tires/wheels front to back and see if the vibration moves to the rear. If it moves, then I’d suspect an issue with the wheel/tire.
So hopefully someone can help me out! I can't get the 3 bolts off that are in the back of the assembly to save my life. i'm having a hard time fitting my tool(s) due to the lower control arm being in the way! someone please tell me what tools they are using for those bolts
I own a 2010 silverado z71 and have the same problem but I've noticed everyone buys the actual hub assembly with the bearing included instead of just buying the wheel bearing by itself. Is there a reason for this?
A number of years ago, the wheel bearings for these trucks were available separately. Shops and DIY'ers tended to buy the whole hub assembly as it was a little less labor intensive to replace the whole unit - you didn't have to take the assembly over to a hydraulic press and press off the old bearing and press on the new one. Additionally, the ABS wheel speed sensors tended to get wrecked if the truck was driven with sloppy wheel bearings for too long, new ABS sensors are included with the entire hub assembly. Not many people bought the bearings alone, so nowdays you just don't find them that way very often...at least for these trucks... I hope this answered your question...
@@AKJeeper Ahh I didn't think about the wheel speed sensors wearing out that makes sense. Thanks for answering my question, and for the quick response! Great video👍
Many modern vehicles such as these Silverados have what are called unit bearings, or unitized bearings or wheel hub assemblies. They are a bearing assembly, packed with grease and sealed from the factory. There is no maintenance interval on these, unlike older vehicles where you would periodically remove the bearings and repack them with grease (and replace the seal). You replace these unit bearings when they show signs of wear, or are leaking grease.
Does the SI specifies the usage of loctite? If not you just over tighten the blots due to unintentional lubrication provided by the thread locker. remember that Torque is working because there's friction no friction goodbye torque ;)
Airman The service manual specifies use of locktite in the event the original nut is reused. It is a crimp style locknut, only effective on original installation. This isn’t a critical component like an aluminum cylinder head, so the slight increase in torque reading due to the locktite is inconsequential. The important part is that it is reinstalled tight enough - I’d dare say most folks in the industry would just zip these on with their trusty impacts and ship it.
Kenneth Montgomery I don’t slam these on with an impact. I’ve seen a few of these bearings get wrecked by improper torque whether it’s over tightened or not tight enough. I might start the nuts with an impact but final torque is always done via torque wrench. Customer comebacks are costly!
This is the result of globalization. Not necessarily a bad thing if quality standards are maintained. Sadly, I've found some poor quality OE items that were made in China, such as GM window regulators.
Here it is 2024 and your video is still helping people. I'm working on my dad's 2008 Silverado which needs a front wheel hub/bearing. Thanks from Wisconsin where we have rust too. OY!
Very well done. I try to do as much of the work on my vehicles as I can, so I end up watching a lot of RUclips tutorials. I have to say your videos rank near the top. Your clear and thorough demonstration and commentary is much appreciated - a true standout!
i agree
Nice, has to be one of the best front wheel bearing change outs I have seen on RUclips. Should be very helpful to those who have never done it before. 🛠️👍
Awesome instruction , could not have ask for a better tutorial. Thank you very much .
Finally someone on here that is very informative!! Thank you so much for the details.
Thank you so much. You help save me over 850 bucks by putting this video up. 2 hours and got my truck repaired at a time we didn't need to spend 996.00 which was the quote. Kudos for a job well done sir!
This is precisely why I like to put these kinds of videos up. I love helping people fix their own equipment, and if that saves them money - even better. Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment, I really appreciate it! Have a good day!
That's what I got quoted too. That's literally insane. There's no reason it would cost that much smh.
Thank you! I just changed the front left on my 2009 1500 Silverado and will do the other side tomorrow.
It pays to turn off the radio once in a while and just listen, that's when I heard a slight grinding noise. I'm at 91K on the truck and it's the first time they been changed. Thanks for the video, I watched it throughout the process. Very Helpful.
Thank you for this very helpful video. I just did this job on my Suburban, and might not have completed it without your clear demonstration.
I have a 2wd Sierra. Your video was very helpful. It helped me confirm what turned out to be the problem and clearly showed the repair. The only difference between 2wd and 4wd was the hub nut from the CV, other than that, easy enough fix with your help. Thanks!
Jamey Landry Glad this video helped you! We don't see too many 2wd trucks in these parts, so I forgot to mention that the process was similar for 2wd models. Thanks for taking the time to post a comment!
Excellent video. Appreciate your time in sharing these instructions. Awesome!
What a great VID! I wish I should DIY it before my 2009 Avalanche Left hub bearing failed last Christmas . I had no choose went to the dealership due to heavy snow condition, took them 4 hours to replace with a new hub. ($1000 CAD job+parts). After I found out they use impact gun to unbolt the bolts and make a hole on my CV boot now the grease spinned everywhere on my front wheel! I injected back lots of grease through the small hole and sealed it using silicon RTV sealant. Hopefully it will work. I just done replaceing the right wheel hub bearing myself, thant for the VID again! Subscribed!
Really good job showing correct ways to replace front wheel bearing. The video saved me a bunch of money !!!!
Great video ! Just had the same job done by a dealership... and cost me a bundle ! Wish I Knew that I could have done it! Who ever said ya can't teach an old dog ... ...... When the left wheel bearing goes,I'll do the next one Thank You !!!!!
Your video is very thorough and clear. I appreciate you. I’m going to try this project this week.
I hope your project goes smoothly and that my video covered enough to help you get the job done!
I really appreciate you. I'm gonna go dobit the rite way because of u. You also relieved some anxiety. Thank u
East Coast here. To get the hub out I used a torch, a 36” pry bar, hammer, PB blaster penetrant and time. About 40mins
I don’t envy those of you on the east coast or the Midwest. We have corrosion issues in coastal Alaska, but nothing like the “chemically enhanced” corrosion that you have! Glad you were able to get it done, though!
Doing both sides on my truck. This video saved me a lot of money! Thank you!
I have a 2011 4 wheel Silverado. This is the exact problem with mine. I can do this myself and save some money. Thanks man.
Junior Chavez yes it is a pretty straightforward job. Takes some time the first time you do one, especially if rust is an issue in your location. But definitely doable by a DIY'er. Thanks for stopping by!
Thanks, very well paced: I could follow along and work alongside. You are very clear, and patient. Your video saved me a lot of money. I replaced the rotor while I was at it. Thanks for the tip on replacing both, but I will wait until it starts making noise.
Excellent video, great camera angles.
Excellent video every step was shown and explained perfectly. I am not complaining because everything was done so well, but you do say "i will go ahead" unnecessarily, so many times.
so much for asking help on this,forum. 3 days and no response to my question. I ended p replacing g both wheel hub and will try tomorrow. By the way despite what ypu they say on RUclips, the axle nut is a 35mm.not 36 mm and using 36m will damage the nut.
Hello Akjeeper
I have 2008 GMC Sierra SLE. I hear noise from front drier side.Humming noise sounds like snowbirds at 35mph and up gets louder as speed goes up. Goes away if zi make a right turn comes back in straight and left turn. I did the shake and spin test, I don't Har noise from right front perhaps slight movement if I shake it in horizontal x axis. not noticeable much. I can see any tie rod movement. On the,left side no movement in x or y axis. When ip on the ack and turning. I hear noise like rubber . I have changed the booth about a month ago.Basically took out the axle , removed outer cv. cleaned inspected and pit back with fresh grease. It was moving freely inn all direction. I don't think it's the cv but I am not sure. If this,sound is from wheel hub, RUclips guys say its from right hub not left. I bought two new wheel hub assembly, but want to make sure thus is the,problem before replacing. Your video was excellent. I don't hear noise anywhere close to the one you fixed. Please advise I you can today as I am planning to do the change tomorrow.
not sure how I would see your reply.
Thank you very much
Hope you bought a lottery ticket after taking this apart. I dont think they come apart that easily on new ones.
I’ve lost count of how many of these I’ve done in my shop. A few of them have been a major pain in the butt due to corrosion (vehicles that originally came from the Midwest or northeast). But generally these come apart without too much fuss.
Good video ,excellent instructor , thanks
Bro do You have to do alignment after this job?? And do You recomend to check something also while we have all that apart?? Tanks bro scuz My inglish
Thanks for video I have a 2008 4wd Tahoe that the drivers side hub is bad, this will help tremendously and save a lot of money.
Thanks after watching this video I believe I can pull this off you did a great job of laying it out step by step.
Great explanation and fine job, thank you.
Very thorough. I hope mine come apart as easy as that one did. NH salt rust is worst than welding parts together.
thanks for the torque value it's appreciate
Thanks for the great video! Very helpful!
My 2012 silverado just had two back to back failures and im seeing that the hub nut wants to keep coming loose. I torqued everything to spec aswell. Any idea?
Specifically for the spindle, I hear some say not to use never seize and only use bearing grease. Can you tell me which is correct and why? I need to due this on my truck this weekend. Thanks for great detailed video!
Damn so thankful for this video
I'm glad you liked it! Thanks for the nice comment!
Great video! Thank you
Do you have a video for replacing 2008 Silverado 1500 cv axle? I will be replacing both the wheel bearing and cv axle at the same time. Excellent job on the wheel bearing replacement video!
I don't currently have a video on replacing the CV axle shafts on these trucks. I'll try and film a video the next time I have one of these trucks in for that. Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment!
I am in Alaska also ANCHORAGE where are you located at or do you have a shop?
Excellent !! Great DIY video.
Merry Christmas.
Thanks for the positive feedback. Merry Christmas to you as well!
Thanks for the video
I'm gonna start fixing my truck !
You're very welcome. I hope you are able to get it done and save some money over taking it to a shop! Thanks for stopping by.
Mine was stuck,needed to use an air chisel, came out like butter,sledge hammer did not budge it.
Do you live in the rust belt? I find that I have to break out the air hammer on vehicles from the Midwest and northeast. They use way more corrosive ice melt on the roads in those locations than we do in Alaska.
@@AKJeeper
Yes,Ontario,Canada.original from 2010.
Can we give a shout out to this video? Nicely done. AND… how nice is it to have a cordless impact? Done in 10 seconds vs 5 minutes the poor man’s way.
As I’ve gotten older, I’ve gotten more appreciative of power tools. I did these jobs without power tools when I first started out!
Great work, thank you
Thanks u was very helpful
That little rotor screw is only there for assembly line purposes. Only struggle with those one time
Thank you, sir. Nice video. My '07 Tahoe sounds a lot better after I replaced my front hubs :)
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
Hey was it a scraping or rubbing noise
Very well done !!!!! Thank you driving my truck and a huge diffrence !!!!!
humming noise from driverside at speeds higher than25mph and sounds like snow tire.I don't have snow tires just all season and had them rotate and balance 2 days ago. I don't see any tiered movement or ball joint movement.
Awesome video man! Thank you!
That’s the problem with lending our tools lol they never return it until you say something haha
Do you recommend doing both sides and breaks at the same time
On my own personal vehicle, I try to change these out in pairs. I’ll also check the brakes and if they are close to being worn, I’ll do them at this time as well. I don’t like working on my own car, so if I can tackle several jobs all in one, I’ll do that so the intervals between repairs is extended as much as possible.
Nice one so afrer any brake repair where calipers were pushed back in you pump the brake with the veichle off rite
tontaiameriki Yes. As a matter of good practice, anytime you touch calipers regardless if you fully compress the piston(s) or not - pump up the brake pedal. You can do it vehicle running or not.
Great video! Parts are coming in today as I plan to do this myself on my 08' Vortec Max 1500. Thanks to your video, I believe I can do this! :)
I'm just wondering how it's running for you as I have a 08 vortex max
This just happened to me to dad but as the cold it's not being friendly maybe to mean jumps just wondering if I can get your opinion thank you for your kindness and time
It has got me home from anywhere and everywhere and I love it just if you know anything I can clean up before it's going to happen I thank you
I'm getting a lot of problems this spring and I would like you if you could send something out this way thank you kindly
Thank you for videoing this.
You're very welcome! Hope it helps you get the job done!
If it does te turn smoothly what could the problem be?
nice video very helpful . Thank you for posting.
You're welcome. Thanks for your feedback!
Is it possible that this problem could make my abs and traction control lights come on
Yes, worn out wheel bearings on these vehicles could cause ABS wheel speed sensor problems which would set codes and illuminate the ABS/traction control lights. The truck in this video had random occurrences of the ABS light illuminating which were solved once new wheel bearing assemblies were installed. Always do a visual inspection and try to get the codes read before throwing parts at your vehicle, though.
How much torque? All of it
Good job 👍
Less worried about the chrome impact socket then the lack of jackstands.
There’s definitely jack stands under the frame, just outside of view of the camera. I never work on a vehicle without having a secondary safety.
Is that upper control arm cracked? Great video! Thanks
CODY MORRIS Nope. Just typical rust causing the factory powder coating to flake off. Vehicles get super rusty in coastal Alaska. Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment!
Good video man. Thanks for all the help. 👍🏼
You're very welcome! Glad the video could help you out!
thank you very much for your help.
You're very welcome. Thanks for taking the time to post!
Did. Anyone knows how much will cost to do this. Job. .
Thank you for this video, you saved me like 600 bucks!
You're very welcome. These generally aren't too hard of a hard job for a DIY'er, unless you live in a salty/rusty type of environment. Feels good to do your own work and save money, right?
Did this truck have any abs codes because of the bearing?
The truck in this video did not have ABS codes, but it is very common for ABS codes to show up when the bearings go bad. I had another truck in the shop similar to this one recently where the ABS codes were directly related to a bad set of wheel bearings.
Thanks bud!
How can you tell when they're going out
They typically start making noise that gets progressively worse as they wear out more. You can also spin the wheel by hand and listen for any noises, and check the bearing for play by shaking the tire/wheel at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock position. The first two minutes of the video show the noise emitted by this truck's bearing, and I also show how I tested the bearings for play.
would this be the same process for a 4-wheel drive 2008 tahoe?
Yes. Same process on the Tahoes/Suburbans. :)
Hey man I had a question.. i have the Same truck with a 6 inch lift.. and like 3 months ago it started to shake really bad while going 60mph
So I thought it was the tires
So I bought new 33 inch tires for a 20x12 wheel
And I have a 2 inch spacer all around as well
Well anyways
After the first violent shake I had
I immediately took it to a mechanic and replaced new rotors / brake pads / brake calipers and outer tie rods
And balance tires and aligned the truck
So it almost went away
Now it only shakes at 40-45mph
But anything lower or higher it’s smooth
And I can’t figure out what’s wrong with it
The shake gets annoying since I’m always driving 40-45 mph
I can feel it in my steering wheel
And more to the left side of the truck to
...
Any ideas 💡 thanks
bowtie 5.3 I’ve come across a lot of issues with wheel spacers. Can you fit your wheels on your truck without using the spacers? If so, try that and see if the vibration goes away. What I’ve seen happen is that a perfectly balanced tire/wheel assembly doesn’t fit quite true to the hub when a wheel spacer is involved, so you’ll get a shake (sometimes violent) as a result. If the vibes continue even without the spacers, rotate tires/wheels front to back and see if the vibration moves to the rear. If it moves, then I’d suspect an issue with the wheel/tire.
So hopefully someone can help me out! I can't get the 3 bolts off that are in the back of the assembly to save my life. i'm having a hard time fitting my tool(s) due to the lower control arm being in the way! someone please tell me what tools they are using for those bolts
If they are rusted bad apply some heat with a torch to the bolt
Why were you calling the bearing surface of a steering knuckle
I own a 2010 silverado z71 and have the same problem but I've noticed everyone buys the actual hub assembly with the bearing included instead of just buying the wheel bearing by itself. Is there a reason for this?
A number of years ago, the wheel bearings for these trucks were available separately. Shops and DIY'ers tended to buy the whole hub assembly as it was a little less labor intensive to replace the whole unit - you didn't have to take the assembly over to a hydraulic press and press off the old bearing and press on the new one. Additionally, the ABS wheel speed sensors tended to get wrecked if the truck was driven with sloppy wheel bearings for too long, new ABS sensors are included with the entire hub assembly. Not many people bought the bearings alone, so nowdays you just don't find them that way very often...at least for these trucks... I hope this answered your question...
@@AKJeeper Ahh I didn't think about the wheel speed sensors wearing out that makes sense. Thanks for answering my question, and for the quick response! Great video👍
Didn't see u pack any grease in the bearings. Are they pre packed an sealed. Great video very helpful. Thanks.
Many modern vehicles such as these Silverados have what are called unit bearings, or unitized bearings or wheel hub assemblies. They are a bearing assembly, packed with grease and sealed from the factory. There is no maintenance interval on these, unlike older vehicles where you would periodically remove the bearings and repack them with grease (and replace the seal). You replace these unit bearings when they show signs of wear, or are leaking grease.
Does the SI specifies the usage of loctite? If not you just over tighten the blots due to unintentional lubrication provided by the thread locker. remember that Torque is working because there's friction no friction goodbye torque ;)
Airman The service manual specifies use of locktite in the event the original nut is reused. It is a crimp style locknut, only effective on original installation. This isn’t a critical component like an aluminum cylinder head, so the slight increase in torque reading due to the locktite is inconsequential. The important part is that it is reinstalled tight enough - I’d dare say most folks in the industry would just zip these on with their trusty impacts and ship it.
@@AKJeeper If you overtighten the axle nut you will wreck the wheel bearing. Perhaps better to stay away from impact wrench.
Kenneth Montgomery I don’t slam these on with an impact. I’ve seen a few of these bearings get wrecked by improper torque whether it’s over tightened or not tight enough. I might start the nuts with an impact but final torque is always done via torque wrench. Customer comebacks are costly!
If you don’t have an impact, just have someone step on the brakes instead of putting wheel back on.
Turn rotter in and out. “Get to everything “
To easy with rust free
U didn't just replace wheel bearing u replaced whole hub kinda misleading title but still helpful
It’s not misleading for this truck.
What I'm saying is the wheel bearing and hub r one n itself. Not like the " older" trucks
Been looking for wheel bearing replacement vids and all of them seem like it’s just easier to replace the whole hub🤷🏻♂️
Made in mexico 🤔⁉️
This is the result of globalization. Not necessarily a bad thing if quality standards are maintained. Sadly, I've found some poor quality OE items that were made in China, such as GM window regulators.
Great video, Thanks a lot.
Thanks for a well done video!
Thanks for stopping by and leaving a positive comment. Much appreciated!