I think he should have a more objective scoring - finishing within 2" 6" just getting a shot on the next ball, getting a carom vs getting it with the intended shape etc.
Some of your first goes were really close. I'd be frustrated being so near to sinking the shot only to be left with the ball bouncing in the jaws and remain on the table. Great entertaining recreations, thank you 👍
Very curious the differences between players when it comes to cue power. On your last shot you said you avoid playing shots with this much power, but for me that's about 40% cuepower. (90-100% usually results in balls flying off the table). The difference in fast-twitch muscle fibers between humans is quite curious. At my club that is an asian guy that cannot screw back 3ft shots more than 1ft cos his max power is about half of your last shot, and that's as hard as he can hit. Pretty curious...
It does seem to depend on the speed of tables players get used to. Also how easily the ball drops in off the jaws of the pocket. If a player is used to a fast table where you can get away with it a bit at a slow speed they tend to roll the ball. The alternative is you punch everything but I’m not sure why some find it easier to pot in general at different speeds which seems to be a factor as well
@@Breakfromlife I prefer to use just the necessary speed to pot/position, never any excess. That reduces flukes, and that's good cos I hate fluking a ball.
Here's a pro tip few are willing to hear. It's not your cue action, it's your bridge placement. You presume you place your bridge perfectly, but you're wrong. Almost everyone is wrong on this topic.
@@Breakfromlife I made a video back in 2007 on a potato camera, explaining the pivot point and back hand english. It's on my channel. Dr. Dave has promoted it. It covers the basic concept that there is an effective pivot point (bridge length) that cancels out stroking errors. Most pros bridge near to this length instinctively. Non pros rely on swiping far more often to create a potting angle. They aim thick and swipe to what we call the outside. i.e. Cutting Object Ball left, swipe Cue Ball right, to thin the eventual OB path.
@@Breakfromlife Here's a basic intro you can test in 1 minute. Bridge with length 20 inches, hit the CB firm with left. The CB will travel right of your aim. Now bridge at 8 inches, then hit firm with left, the CB will travel left of your aim. In the middle is the pivot point. There's a minima pivot point for power shots, around 12 inches in Snooker with a cue around 9.6mm with thin brass ferule. On longer and slower shots, there is an effective pivot point, which is longer, that counteracts swerve. So for breaking with side, you can bridge at about 18 inches, aim centre CB then hit with side, and hit the pack at your original aim point. Tip end mass determines squirt (which snooker players call throw). Lower tip end mass reduced squirt and hence lengthens the pivot point. Off the shelf cues tend to use thicker brass ferrules and hence squirt more, They're also often 10mm or wider, adding to tip end mass. Most pros use significantly lighter and smaller tip construction to reduce squirt and hence increase the length of the pivot point bridge length. In US pool the sweet spot is around 11.8mm, in UK pub pool around 8.5 mm, for a 10 inch pivot point, often with a plastic ferrule to reduce tip end mass.
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I don’t understand why you wouldn’t give yourself a 10/10 for the Wu shot in the end, that was absolutely perfect.
You know what, I've noticed that a few times. He rarely gives himself a 10/10. High standards!
Modesty I suppose
I think he should have a more objective scoring - finishing within 2" 6" just getting a shot on the next ball, getting a carom vs getting it with the intended shape etc.
it was close, but the white was in a slightly different position
@@Breakfromlife cruel is the chase for perfection
Judd’s double with the pink is a 10/10 recreation.
I think he harshly deducted a point for the pace difference. Still One for one is always a ripper!
He always seems to over-hit them compared to the original shots. I get that his cloth is slower so on some shots he has to hit harder
As people have pointed out I over hit This one a bit
For some reason you don’t want to give yourself a 10, even when the shot is identical.
it’s not quite a few of these were close but just a fraction off
ding black was a 10/10 recreation!! love from istanbul
Yeah
Thanks, but the cue ball went fractionally too far to the right and not quite far enough back
hey break from life, I’m from Harrogate, England and also, how tall are you? I have been watching every saturday since 2020.
Really Enjoy watching your recreations. Matt from Castletown in the Isle of Man
That Ding shot was a banger! Love your content all the way from Pune India 😊
Some of your first goes were really close. I'd be frustrated being so near to sinking the shot only to be left with the ball bouncing in the jaws and remain on the table. Great entertaining recreations, thank you 👍
There were a few shots in the qualifiers that were absolutely amazing
I’m assuming you mean for the UK, I saw a couple, but I’m sure I’ll get most of them which will probably be out in a couple of weeks time I imagine
love from Mongolia
huge fan from addis ababa, Ethiopia
Brilliant content mate, the best in the business.
Great shots again we'll done mate
Judds double was a 10/10,
It was a bit too hard though
Why does your table look stretched compared to the tv table how are the cameras different?
might just be the camera angle. I think they are further away and higher on tv
Very curious the differences between players when it comes to cue power. On your last shot you said you avoid playing shots with this much power, but for me that's about 40% cuepower. (90-100% usually results in balls flying off the table). The difference in fast-twitch muscle fibers between humans is quite curious. At my club that is an asian guy that cannot screw back 3ft shots more than 1ft cos his max power is about half of your last shot, and that's as hard as he can hit. Pretty curious...
It does seem to depend on the speed of tables players get used to. Also how easily the ball drops in off the jaws of the pocket. If a player is used to a fast table where you can get away with it a bit at a slow speed they tend to roll the ball. The alternative is you punch everything but I’m not sure why some find it easier to pot in general at different speeds which seems to be a factor as well
@@Breakfromlife I prefer to use just the necessary speed to pot/position, never any excess. That reduces flukes, and that's good cos I hate fluking a ball.
what is a magic cueball?
Morning..
I want to be a good snooker player but I don't understand how to improve my game please guide me۔
It’s mostly just about keeping as much the same as possible shot to shot but I have lots of technical videos that explain more
Best shot of the entire year is probably the fluked blue by MW. Will you try to recreate that one?
I was wondering whether to Have a go at that or not, but it might take awhile
I would pot the white every time on that trump shot C 😂
Yeah I really had to give that everything and pot it
Promise ya bud, stay still and those long pots will drop! Still awesome though!
I would if I could
Too much head movement on some shorts; particularly the long screw shots, but I'm sure you already knew this.
Yeah I don’t tend to play shots with that much power if I can avoid it because I can stay completely still
Here's a pro tip few are willing to hear. It's not your cue action, it's your bridge placement. You presume you place your bridge perfectly, but you're wrong. Almost everyone is wrong on this topic.
Please enlighten us then, o mighty bridge lord!
I could do with some help on this as well ,so you are saying change your bridge,position,height,length?
I have heard quite a lot about this recently, but not everything
@@Breakfromlife I made a video back in 2007 on a potato camera, explaining the pivot point and back hand english. It's on my channel. Dr. Dave has promoted it. It covers the basic concept that there is an effective pivot point (bridge length) that cancels out stroking errors. Most pros bridge near to this length instinctively. Non pros rely on swiping far more often to create a potting angle. They aim thick and swipe to what we call the outside. i.e. Cutting Object Ball left, swipe Cue Ball right, to thin the eventual OB path.
@@Breakfromlife Here's a basic intro you can test in 1 minute. Bridge with length 20 inches, hit the CB firm with left. The CB will travel right of your aim. Now bridge at 8 inches, then hit firm with left, the CB will travel left of your aim. In the middle is the pivot point. There's a minima pivot point for power shots, around 12 inches in Snooker with a cue around 9.6mm with thin brass ferule. On longer and slower shots, there is an effective pivot point, which is longer, that counteracts swerve. So for breaking with side, you can bridge at about 18 inches, aim centre CB then hit with side, and hit the pack at your original aim point.
Tip end mass determines squirt (which snooker players call throw). Lower tip end mass reduced squirt and hence lengthens the pivot point. Off the shelf cues tend to use thicker brass ferrules and hence squirt more, They're also often 10mm or wider, adding to tip end mass. Most pros use significantly lighter and smaller tip construction to reduce squirt and hence increase the length of the pivot point bridge length. In US pool the sweet spot is around 11.8mm, in UK pub pool around 8.5 mm, for a 10 inch pivot point, often with a plastic ferrule to reduce tip end mass.