Another perfect job Jim, Thought I was the only one doing that, only I preffer an air tool with a cut off wheel. I just seem to have more control. Glad I found you Sam
Good Video! I use the anglegrinder too for toolgrinding, works fine, I also go the way of using the thin (1mm) cutoff disc for removing large chunks like on a parting tool. Keep up the good work :)
Thanks for the shaper tool grinding tips. I've seen Tom Lipton, Adam, and a couple of others doing lathe tools, but you are the first I've seen doing shaper tooling. It would be interesting to see more about how a shaper is set up and run. I'm new enough to machining that even the basics are interesting. For instance, the "clapper" has been referred to a few times in comments...but I'm not sure what that is or does. So much to learn.... -- Mike
Does it make any difference the direction of feed to the angle of the shear? I would have thought the feed should be other way then the shear's leading edge would be leading the cut as well.
Put less of a curve on the end of the tool. It should have barely enough to notice. Your feed should be quite course. Also, your clapper box should only be strait up when you are doing a slot. All other times, it should be angled in the direction of feed so the tool swings clear of the cut rather than drag on it. With the right grind and feed, a tool like this is able to put a finish on a piece of 1018 that looks like it was done on a surface grinder.
Fantastic info in this video, not sure why it took me so long to find it. I ground a shear bit a couple of days ago (which turned out ok) but wish I would have seen this first. I will be reducing the rake & radius, and will increase the stepover. Is your G&E a 24"?
For a couple of reasons. One, the grinding disc is much more aggressive than a typical grinding wheel. Two, speaking just for myself, I am able to put much more force into the cut than I am standing at a grinder. The weight of the grinder and the fact that the toolbit blank is in a vice, allows me to really get the entire beer gut behind the cut!
Hi, Would you mind telling me the model of that grinder? My 7" Dewalt got stolen a few months ago and haven't replaced it yet, but I have a big job coming up and need to grab one or two 7-9" soon, and I'd rather not buy plastic housing grinders! Thanks!
Thats a Baldor 12" grinder model 1215W. I purchased it used on Ebay with bad bearings for about 1/4 retail. I spent more money on the two new stones for it than I did for the grinder, it takes 12x2 wheels.
Ooops, I had meant the Milwaukee 7" metal housing grinder! If I had the cash I'd pick up those Baldor 12" in a heart beat, but every time O look they're going way too high!
elitejohnlp Sorry, thats Miwaukee model number 6066. Look for 6065 to 6067, pretty much the same. Those are the last of the metal bodied 7" grinders. The newer 6088 is a plastic body with a metal gear head, lighter, but not nearly as durable. Plus I find, on big grinders, the weight helps get the work done.
Hmmm....That threw me for a bit of a loop. I had watched this a month or so ago, and just today started grinding a shear tool from memory.....I got most of the way done, and thought I'd better review this for the clearance angles and other last minute details. What threw me, was that I was grinding it for the point of the tool to meet the work first.....seemed logical to me!....of course you are going back-assward....I was grinding a keen vertical edge on the point, with relief going back the point end towards the back, then was going arch the bottom a bit, so that the deepest point of the cut would be close to the center of the tool....guess I need to re-think this, while taking in to consideration of angling the clapper box aardvarkk mentioned....not sure if he meant for just the clapper box to be angled with a still vertical tool and holder, or to have the entire works angled.....any ideas, and have you tried it? Thanks for the vids....your catchin' up with Adam!
I am going to be working on incorporating some of ardvarkkkkk1 suggestions today as well, decreasing the radius is going to be the first thing I try. Look for an update.
James Kilroy FWIw....lathefan posted a shearing tool, where he had the point of the 45 degree, going to the work first as I was describing in what I had started to grind.
2x72 belt sander is probably better than using a disc, but the belts are pretty expensive, so it probably doesn't really pay, unless one is making something valuable like a knife.
For the final edge a stone is required. A belt always has a tiny round over on the ground edge because you can never get the belt tight enough to take out 100% of the slack. They are great machines however.
That was a fast grind with a nice final relief edge. I learned the "less work & fast" method. Thanks for showing....13
Another perfect job Jim, Thought I was the only one doing that, only I preffer an air tool with a cut off wheel. I just seem to have more control. Glad I found you Sam
Good Video! I use the anglegrinder too for toolgrinding, works fine, I also go the way of using the thin (1mm) cutoff disc for removing large chunks like on a parting tool.
Keep up the good work :)
I want to see you hacking away at some steel using an angle grinder Stefan 😊
Thanks for the shaper tool grinding tips. I've seen Tom Lipton, Adam, and a couple of others doing lathe tools, but you are the first I've seen doing shaper tooling.
It would be interesting to see more about how a shaper is set up and run. I'm new enough to machining that even the basics are interesting. For instance, the "clapper" has been referred to a few times in comments...but I'm not sure what that is or does.
So much to learn....
-- Mike
BigMjolnir Hey Mike, lots of shaper action in my last few videos, you might want to check them out.
Thanks! Will do! The use of a handheld grinder for roughing a tool hadn't occurred to me. Thanks for the idea!
-- Mike
I've got some of those thin cut off discs for my 4" grinder, I'll have to give that a shot, thanks.
Does it make any difference the direction of feed to the angle of the shear? I would have thought the feed should be other way then the shear's leading edge would be leading the cut as well.
Put less of a curve on the end of the tool. It should have barely enough to notice. Your feed should be quite course. Also, your clapper box should only be strait up when you are doing a slot. All other times, it should be angled in the direction of feed so the tool swings clear of the cut rather than drag on it. With the right grind and feed, a tool like this is able to put a finish on a piece of 1018 that looks like it was done on a surface grinder.
I'll give those tips a shot and see what kind of results I get. Thanks.
this is great, I wish I'd have seen it sooner.
Thank you so much, I am glad you enjoyed.
thanks james. another great video ive found.
Fantastic info in this video, not sure why it took me so long to find it. I ground a shear bit a couple of days ago (which turned out ok) but wish I would have seen this first. I will be reducing the rake & radius, and will increase the stepover. Is your G&E a 24"?
I tried it, it works as advertised, and I'm a believer. But... why DOES it work better than a 2HP grinder with monster wheels?
For a couple of reasons. One, the grinding disc is much more aggressive than a typical grinding wheel. Two, speaking just for myself, I am able to put much more force into the cut than I am standing at a grinder. The weight of the grinder and the fact that the toolbit blank is in a vice, allows me to really get the entire beer gut behind the cut!
Hi, Would you mind telling me the model of that grinder? My 7" Dewalt got stolen a few months ago and haven't replaced it yet, but I have a big job coming up and need to grab one or two 7-9" soon, and I'd rather not buy plastic housing grinders! Thanks!
Thats a Baldor 12" grinder model 1215W. I purchased it used on Ebay with bad bearings for about 1/4 retail. I spent more money on the two new stones for it than I did for the grinder, it takes 12x2 wheels.
Ooops, I had meant the Milwaukee 7" metal housing grinder! If I had the cash I'd pick up those Baldor 12" in a heart beat, but every time O look they're going way too high!
elitejohnlp Sorry, thats Miwaukee model number 6066. Look for 6065 to 6067, pretty much the same. Those are the last of the metal bodied 7" grinders. The newer 6088 is a plastic body with a metal gear head, lighter, but not nearly as durable. Plus I find, on big grinders, the weight helps get the work done.
Hmmm....That threw me for a bit of a loop. I had watched this a month or so ago, and just today started grinding a shear tool from memory.....I got most of the way done, and thought I'd better review this for the clearance angles and other last minute details. What threw me, was that I was grinding it for the point of the tool to meet the work first.....seemed logical to me!....of course you are going back-assward....I was grinding a keen vertical edge on the point, with relief going back the point end towards the back, then was going arch the bottom a bit, so that the deepest point of the cut would be close to the center of the tool....guess I need to re-think this, while taking in to consideration of angling the clapper box aardvarkk mentioned....not sure if he meant for just the clapper box to be angled with a still vertical tool and holder, or to have the entire works angled.....any ideas, and have you tried it? Thanks for the vids....your catchin' up with Adam!
I am going to be working on incorporating some of ardvarkkkkk1 suggestions today as well, decreasing the radius is going to be the first thing I try. Look for an update.
James Kilroy
FWIw....lathefan posted a shearing tool, where he had the point of the 45 degree, going to the work first as I was describing in what I had started to grind.
2x72 belt sander is probably better than using a disc, but the belts are pretty expensive, so it probably doesn't really pay, unless one is making something valuable like a knife.
For the final edge a stone is required. A belt always has a tiny round over on the ground edge because you can never get the belt tight enough to take out 100% of the slack. They are great machines however.
Hondo Trailside FL
Milwaukee 7" Side Grinder...A.K.A. Jack the Ripper.
That book is $34.95 now