Winky, a couple of years ago i treated myself to a set of screw machine drills from 1/16"-1/2". These instantly became my go to drills for lathe and milling machine work. The set is USA made out of Minnesota. I too have limited height on my Clausing mill travel due to a 3" spindle travel but one works with what they have. I really like the Clausing mill in spite of it's limitations. Merry Christmas to you and your family from Texas.
Somebody recently gave me partial set of screw machine drills . I replaced a few to make the set complete between 1/4 and 1/2. You are right, they are amazing. I need to get a set from 1/16 to 1/4
I've been thinking about this a LOT lately. I was going to try to source tap sized end mills with collet sized shanks (which seemed unlikely). Your solution of ER16 collets is genius!! This is a killer solution to a truly ubiquitous issue!
Hand cranking the table is onerous on my ancient Bridgeport with a 6" Kurt and turntable on the table. Using an HF 20v driver/drill adapted to the Z axle makes life worth living...
Great idea! I have a dreaded round-column mill, so I absolutely hate to have to move the head to drill. It definitely makes me work out the sequence of operations to minimize having to make any changes to the Z-axis. Instead of turning down all those hardened shanks though, I think I'm just going to buy a 10mm R8 collet (or two) to use just for this purpose. Thanks for the idea and the inspiration!
I had a round column so I know what you mean. The reason I wanted 3/8" shank is that I have a 3/8" countersink I use as a guide for my guided tap wrench. I also have a weird B&S #9 taper and can't find metric collets
I wish somebody made small Jig bore machines. Somebody like Grizzly or Jet would likely sell quite a few. Just a fairly heavy duty drill press with dovetail slides on the table or even box ways.
Very nice, thanks. Clearance is always back of mind with my Busy Bee mill. I was thinking of making individual sleeves for each drill to then go in a MT collet but this looks a lot easier.
These ended up being fairly cheap and work great. The hardest part was turing the shanks down. Apparently they make CBN or ceramic inserts that do much better. I need to get a few.
That looks like a good solution. I use ER32 collets on the mill. The biggest bugbear is having to change collets for every drill or tap I pick up, a Jacobs chuck is much quicker.
Thanks for the video and link to the thread chart. Nice idea. Shame you were not able to find a 10mm collet for the B&S taper. The set looks good and works well. Dave.
Nice to see this. The ER system is very versatile and because they are split from both ends, they grip fairly parallel, unlike R8 collets for example. If you need to grip tightly, use ball nuts, they are great, a little more expensive but work well. Incidently, R8 metric size collets are widely available in te UK which is what my mill quill uses so I have a nix of metric and imperial sizes. For small sizes, ER11 is useful. I use ER11, 16 and 32 sizes and they cover most things.
My mill uses Brown & Sharpe #9 collets. A very good collet but hard to find anything other than a inch. ER collets are great although they take a bit more time to tighten.
One viewer pointed me to an TTS adapter. It was a 3/4" shank to ER20 collets. It would have worked well but this was cheaper and also usable in my 1/2" chuck on my lathe and drill press. I also like the fact that it makes it easy to keep up with the drills. I used to keep the tap and drill together but then after using the drill bit I'd lay it on the bench of mill table. Several time the drill for the tap would end up in the drill index. This collet holder/drill reduces confusion although I need to engrave the size on the holder.
If you are dealing with metric its easier. In hindsight i should have made the shanks 1/2", I use a 1/2" end mill more often than than a 3/8" so going from drill to mill it eliminates a collet change.
Nice work. I replaced my drill chucks on my mini lathe tail stock and mill with ER20. More headroom and you can grip the drills on the flutes if you want to create a stub drill with less flex. They are more accurate than cheap chucks so make a nicer hole and drilling experience. It’s not too much extra time changing drills either.
The lengths of the shanks only need to be as long as the gripping length of the collet. 3/4" max is all that is needed, so no need to drop the knee so far to get them in. The drill chuck with a drill bit inserted is very close to the same length as the tap wrench setup. Can both be completed with the knee in the same position?
helpful info and great presentation. as a musician, i also really appreciate that you cite the source for the background music used in the video. cheers
Have you considered at the very least, making an adapter to replace the hand crank for your knee that you can power with a cordless/corded drill? I made one for my Hurco Hawk 5M as soon as I bought it years ago. Wouldn’t be without it.
The long shank plus the collet and drill bit is probably about the same length as an empty drill chuck. So you still have to drop the knee the same amount.
I cut the shanks to 2-inch long. The collets only grip about 3/4 but I wanted the option to extend the drill a little.At 2 inches it's about the same as change an end mill. They works great.
I’m wondering if you may have lost some of the concentricity between the inner taper and the shaft OD. I may have tried to put the shafts into a collet, with a center-drilled rod in the ER that you’re working on to keep it straight, and turned them down concentric with their original OD and then cut them off. However, a drill bit won’t really “care.” Thanks for sharing!
My mill has an R8 taper, I went with an R8-to-ER40 collet chuck, and from there I keep a 1/2" albrecht chuck installed most of the time. If I need to do milling, I use whatever er40 collet to chuck up the endmill or whatever. But instead of a whole set of modified er11 or er20 collet chucks, why not just install a single 1/2" albrecht keyless drill chuck?
Several reason for not going with a chuck. 1) The chuck length is longer than the collet (although I'm sure there are many smaller than my chuck). 2) Time saver, eliminates finding the right side drill and putting it in the chuck. My collets are B&S #9 and hard its hard to find adapters so I'd have to put a straight shank on the keyless chuck and possibly install the correct collet. 3) I'm cheap, a good keyless chuck cost more than twice what I spent. I thought about keeping an ER collet adapter is my mill (I have collets and the adapter already) but the adapter adds length which is always a bad thing.
Well it does sound like that makes sense in your case. For mine the adapter from R8 to er40 was off the shelf. And pretty affordable. I suppose that brown and sharpe to eR 40 may not exist. But I don't know what you're talking about Albrecht trucks being expensive. I found mine at an antique store for $5.😂
If you drill a lot of holes (and most projects have holes), the number one purchase must be a keyless chuck. It will get the most use of any tool in the workshop and easily pay for itself in weeks. Keyless chucks with an integral arbor are quite short. Buying a set of tapping size stub drills is a close second purchase.
@@TheBuildist I have an ER40 adapter but it adds 2.5" in length and takes a lot of time changing collets tighten the collet. The ER16 are very small and I never remove the tap drill. The B&S #9 and the R8 are way faster than a chuck or ER40
@@marley589 I love this tap drill in the ER16 collet holder and would never consider going back to a chuck for tap drills. The additional length is a pan even with the integrated arbor. When tapping the 3/8" collet stays in the mill. I Dill, install the counter sink, chamfer the hole and use then use the counter sink to guide the tap handle. Even a keyless chuck is not as fast and adds additional length. In general, you maybe right about having a keyless chuck but I've had terrible problems getting them to hold. I was using very expensive Rohm chucks but admittedly they were likely worn. However, in this case, the primary reason was to eliminate the chuck and it worked perfect.
G'day Mark. This is an excellent idea, especially if you have a few spares of each drill bit. My HM54GV Mill is Metric as well as doing Imperial. The idea of one shank change over is Excellent. Mine is a NT30 coupled with ER32 collett set, which I change over different collett sizes for the drill bits. Or just a standard 5/8 chuck with your mods Thanks for the suggestion. Ted
I bought a full set of R8 inch collets, after everyone told me I'd only use a few, just to use for drilling! I have an ER40 collet chuck for metric sizes. I have the most commonly used ones (that fit end mills) color coded. Too lazy and cheap to do dedicated stuff.
I have a number of parallel shank (Ø16) ER16 collets that I have reduced the length of, threaded the end to suit my Vertex Posilock chuck and added a centre hole as well for the Posilock. I have two different lengths so that the shorter small drills have similar reach to the longer ones. The advantage for me is that I have an R8 spindle and a Ø16 R8 collet. This means I have the flexibility to put long or short ER16 collets shanks into the R8 collet or to put them into the Posilock chuck that fits the R8 spindle. As a result it is rare to have to do any height changes due to headroom issues. I did have one recently where I had to drill a Ø14 hole though a depth of 90mm using a 2MT drill in a 2-3MT sleeve then a 3MT R8 collet. Just could not do a pilot hole then the 14mm hole without changing the headroom. ER16 collets have a 1mm range and a set will contain collets to fit any size between minimum and maximum as a result, never had to drill a collet out.
I recently bought a Bridgeport clone. After one week I was sick of cranking that Z axis knee. I bought a Z axis power unit. A $125 well spent. Installed easy, and works great. Do yourself a favor.
That’s what I did. Power feed on all three axis is easier on the muscles and saves a lot of time. The Z axis is especially useful for lowering and raising the column quickly. Best money I ever spent.
Interesting solution, I started with ER32 so I don't have the same problem as you.I don't know what Brown and sharp tapers you have, but there are ER collet chucks with a Brown and Sharp taper. ER 32 collets cover a good range, quiet an investment! All the best!
I have an ER40 adapter. It's a better (than a chuck) option for drilling but changing drills in the larger collets is time consuming. Plus the B&S #9 in the mill plus the ER40 is a bit longer. For $75 bucks this set of holders and dills is really nice. Organized too. In the past i've tried to keep a drill with the taps but it seems like I lack self discipline. I end up setting the drill bit down and then it never makes it back to with the tap. Not I need to engrave the holders with the tap size.
Někdy taky potřebuji upravit hotovou tvrzenou stopku pro svoji frézku. Koukal jsem, že používáš plátky DCMT 070204 jako já. Pro tvrdé materiály používám DCMT070204 IC 907 nebo IC908. Když to náhodou tento plátek nevezme, mám ještě plátky DCMT070204 CBN - ty vezmou skoro vše. Bohužel sem nejdou dát odkazy, tak podle specifikace, co jsem napsal Aliexpres vyhledávač najde. Pozdrav z České republiky a ať se daří👍
What a clever solution . I'm going to have to get me some of those. And I'm going to have to make a spinner for the draw bar that can just stay in a clip on the machine instead of having to look fora wrench every time. Couldn't you have just used the right collet in the mill instead of turning down those hard steel shafts? Mine are R8. would that be a problem finding one? I made your thread tap guide a while back
My B&S #9 collets are hard to find in metric but that would have been the best option. Still it worked out well. I have a "spinner" for my drawbar but the Well Index had a really cool self ejecting drawbar. Mine was missing when I got the mill but I made one just like the original. Cool on the tap wrench, for being so simple it really works well. Thanks.
That would work well going from drill to drill but I usually go from drill to mill so the collet change is needed anyway unless I was using a 10mm mill.
@WinkysWorkshop will you eventually have the corresponding taps in more ER holders. With the range currently set with all tapping drills the next tool is usually a tap.
@@marley589 Probably not. Power tapping a blind hole is too risky and my mill has worm drive in the quill will not let a tap be pulled into the work. After drilling I usually install a 3/8" countersink to chamfer the hole and then the back of my guided tap wrench fits the countersink bit. Currently my 3/8" bit has a 1/4" shank but I'll get one with a 3/8" shank. This will eliminate a collet change.
FWIW. I had a similar situation. I didn't turned the ER collet chuck shank down. I grind the BS collet ID to handle 10mm. Furthermore. IMHO. The collet chuck's shank is the concentricity reference. When I was considering the same. I was thinking of chucking a piece of drill rod on the ER collet side so that concentricity between collet and shank can be maintained. But then, there is TIR runout tolerance on every collet. Current ER TIR reference is something like 0.007 mm.
I thought about getting a B&S 10mm collet (or modifying) but I wanted to be able to leave the collet in and switch to a 3/8" countersink bit or 3/8" end mill. In hindsight I should have made the ER adapters 1/2" as it is the most common size end mill I use. As for the concentricity, I'm guessing the OD is about the same as the collet. Certainly plenty close for drilling. They seem to be much better than most drill chucks.
@@WinkysWorkshop ER collet better TIR than drill chuck. Certainly. Hardly able to find TIR specs on drill chuck. It's done. No need to discuss further. 😊😊😊 Happy new year.
Looks very similar to the TTS style of work holding. Great video I went on aliexpress and the er16 tts collets are similar price when shipping included Maybe use your 3/4 bs collet for tts and a lot less adapting required?
THANKS! I had to look up the TSS, yes looks similar. I had no idea they existed. They have them in ER20 with a 3/4 shank on Aliexpress for $13.05. This would be a great option and less work although about $90 buck higher.
@ yes with a bit of digging around you can find er16 in a pair even tighter pricing. Search 2pc TTS 3/4" STRAIGHT SHANK ER32 COLLET CHUCK TOOL HOLDR GAGE LENGTH WITH GROOVE PRACTICAL TOOL ACCESSORIES Will strangely give a link to er16 collets despite the title saying er32 for around au $16 each in the pair
I worked as the support engineer in an engineering company for many years. I always supplied short series drills for the pipe fitters who had to drill 3mm pilot holes in 316 stainless. They were much easier to use in a hand drill when drilling holes in a piece of pipe where stiffness not depth was the best option.
I don't mind the inch system but if I grew up with metric I would despise fractions. In fact I don't like dealing with them if they are not in 16th. What is crazy is that we never made the switch to metric.
Not machining for nearly 2 years but recognizing the problem. Collet chucks use less length than Jacobs chucks. Cutting drillbits to shorter length is an alternative but then drilling deep holes lacks drill bits... Haha, "retarded fractional system". Sorry US guys but I think the same.
Ha... I like the fractional but it's hard to argue that it's better. Of course I grew up with it. It's 100% in my head, I even have most the decimal equivalents memorized.
Winky, a couple of years ago i treated myself to a set of screw machine drills from 1/16"-1/2". These instantly became my go to drills for lathe and milling machine work. The set is USA made out of Minnesota. I too have limited height on my Clausing mill travel due to a 3" spindle travel but one works with what they have. I really like the Clausing mill in spite of it's limitations. Merry Christmas to you and your family from Texas.
Somebody recently gave me partial set of screw machine drills . I replaced a few to make the set complete between 1/4 and 1/2. You are right, they are amazing. I need to get a set from 1/16 to 1/4
Nice work Mark, dedicated tools are so handy, easy to find and simple to return to storage for next time. Excellent video, cheers!
Thanks 👍 And I agree.
i'd call that good too. Thanks for the time in making this video Winko
Thanks!
Thank you, your videos are inspirational to me, because it is very practical.😀
Thanks you sir!
Great video, Mark! I always enjoy your solutions to problems.
Thanks! Good to hear from you.
I've been thinking about this a LOT lately. I was going to try to source tap sized end mills with collet sized shanks (which seemed unlikely). Your solution of ER16 collets is genius!! This is a killer solution to a truly ubiquitous issue!
Glad you like the idea! I've used it for a few jobs and it really is a time saver.
Thank you Mark for the interesting solution to the perennial problem. 👏👏👍😀
My pleasure! Thanks
Hello Winky, another informative video good work, thanks for sharing with us much appreciated, cheers from me. 😄👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks from me 😜
Thanks for sharing your experience.
Glad you liked it! Thanks
Good idea,Mark and easy to use.Thank you.
You are welcome!
Thanks. Another great idea.
I'm glad you liked it! I've used them at least 20 times in the last 2 weeks. Very handy
Hand cranking the table is onerous on my ancient Bridgeport with a 6" Kurt and turntable on the table. Using an HF 20v driver/drill adapted to the Z axle makes life worth living...
Some of those rotary tables are super heavy! I will be installing a motor.
Great idea! I have a dreaded round-column mill, so I absolutely hate to have to move the head to drill. It definitely makes me work out the sequence of operations to minimize having to make any changes to the Z-axis.
Instead of turning down all those hardened shanks though, I think I'm just going to buy a 10mm R8 collet (or two) to use just for this purpose. Thanks for the idea and the inspiration!
I had a round column so I know what you mean. The reason I wanted 3/8" shank is that I have a 3/8" countersink I use as a guide for my guided tap wrench. I also have a weird B&S #9 taper and can't find metric collets
Thanks for the video. Excellent solution
Thanks, I think so too
Nice work !
Thanks
Great idea, looks good.
Thanks
Boy that took me back to the days when I was a Jig Bore Operator.
I wish somebody made small Jig bore machines. Somebody like Grizzly or Jet would likely sell quite a few. Just a fairly heavy duty drill press with dovetail slides on the table or even box ways.
@@WinkysWorkshopjig borers tend to have one prismatic way and a flat way. Like a lathe or surface grinder
Very nice, thanks. Clearance is always back of mind with my Busy Bee mill. I was thinking of making individual sleeves for each drill to then go in a MT collet but this looks a lot easier.
These ended up being fairly cheap and work great. The hardest part was turing the shanks down. Apparently they make CBN or ceramic inserts that do much better. I need to get a few.
That looks like a good solution. I use ER32 collets on the mill. The biggest bugbear is having to change collets for every drill or tap I pick up, a Jacobs chuck is much quicker.
Thanks! ER collets require a lot of turns. I like them on my lathe but not the mill. Plus adding the collet chuck ads length.
Another good idea, thanks Winky.
You’re welcome 😊
Thanks for the video and link to the thread chart. Nice idea. Shame you were not able to find a 10mm collet for the B&S taper.
The set looks good and works well.
Dave.
Well at least with the turned down shank there is a change the right size will be in the mill when i need to drill for a tap Your welcome on the info.
That’s a good solution and I’m thinking there’s quite a few other tools that could be adapted 👍👍
Thats true. Look up TTS tool holder. Somebody mentioned them in a comment. Similar but a pit more expensive.
Excellent idea winky..
Thanks, I've used them several time already. They work as expected.
Nice to see this. The ER system is very versatile and because they are split from both ends, they grip fairly parallel, unlike R8 collets for example. If you need to grip tightly, use ball nuts, they are great, a little more expensive but work well.
Incidently, R8 metric size collets are widely available in te UK which is what my mill quill uses so I have a nix of metric and imperial sizes.
For small sizes, ER11 is useful. I use ER11, 16 and 32 sizes and they cover most things.
My mill uses Brown & Sharpe #9 collets. A very good collet but hard to find anything other than a inch. ER collets are great although they take a bit more time to tighten.
That sure is a good idea.
One viewer pointed me to an TTS adapter. It was a 3/4" shank to ER20 collets. It would have worked well but this was cheaper and also usable in my 1/2" chuck on my lathe and drill press. I also like the fact that it makes it easy to keep up with the drills. I used to keep the tap and drill together but then after using the drill bit I'd lay it on the bench of mill table. Several time the drill for the tap would end up in the drill index. This collet holder/drill reduces confusion although I need to engrave the size on the holder.
Good way to get around a lot of cranking. You got me thinking about similar thing I an do.
If you are dealing with metric its easier. In hindsight i should have made the shanks 1/2", I use a 1/2" end mill more often than than a 3/8" so going from drill to mill it eliminates a collet change.
I use homemade GT tapping collets for tool-less quick release and a very short working height.
Fun idea! I do similar. It was a life changer!
It was either do this or motorize the knee on my mill. I may still do that too. 😜
Nice work. I replaced my drill chucks on my mini lathe tail stock and mill with ER20. More headroom and you can grip the drills on the flutes if you want to create a stub drill with less flex. They are more accurate than cheap chucks so make a nicer hole and drilling experience. It’s not too much extra time changing drills either.
Lots of possibilities for ER collets. I have a chuck on my lathe that is ER40
I was surprised to see you drill out the collet! I would have thought it was screaming hard. Are they actually soft?
Hard but not too hard to drill. It worked great!
The lengths of the shanks only need to be as long as the gripping length of the collet. 3/4" max is all that is needed, so no need to drop the knee so far to get them in.
The drill chuck with a drill bit inserted is very close to the same length as the tap wrench setup. Can both be completed with the knee in the same position?
Interesting. I didnt know for sure what the length was. That would have eliminated the need for the tailstock center on the lathe too.
Thanks
True. I adapted my Jacob’s 16n and boring head to straight 3/4 x 2 inch shanks.
@@ellieprice363 would 3/4" long still have worked just as well for you too?
The longer shank does allow more stick out from the R8 collet if required for just that little bit of extra reach that is sometimes required.
@@martinconnelly1473 True, maybe te length I have is a good compromise.
helpful info and great presentation. as a musician, i also really appreciate that you cite the source for the background music used in the video. cheers
I'd like to take credit for the music link but RUclips does it automatically. Thanks for the compliment on the presentation.
I have thought about buying metric r8 collets hoping it would cover some of the in-between sizes
You never know but I think its unlikely.
good idea. but I noticed the draw bar wrench you made that spins. That seems to work much better than a simple wrench
Yeah it has a shallow socket so it sits on top of the nut, very handy. Plus the Wells Index design is self ejecting. No hammer needed.
i like it.
Me too 🙂Thanks
Brilliant sir
Thanks
Have you considered at the very least, making an adapter to replace the hand crank for your knee that you can power with a cordless/corded drill? I made one for my Hurco Hawk 5M as soon as I bought it years ago. Wouldn’t be without it.
Ha... yep, it will happen. Not sure exactly how but it will.
The long shank plus the collet and drill bit is probably about the same length as an empty drill chuck. So you still have to drop the knee the same amount.
I cut the shanks to 2-inch long. The collets only grip about 3/4 but I wanted the option to extend the drill a little.At 2 inches it's about the same as change an end mill. They works great.
That would make a good video
Ha... glad you think so!
I’m wondering if you may have lost some of the concentricity between the inner taper and the shaft OD. I may have tried to put the shafts into a collet, with a center-drilled rod in the ER that you’re working on to keep it straight, and turned them down concentric with their original OD and then cut them off. However, a drill bit won’t really “care.”
Thanks for sharing!
It's possible I lost some but like you said, it doesn't matter with a drill. They actually look quite good.
My mill has an R8 taper, I went with an R8-to-ER40 collet chuck, and from there I keep a 1/2" albrecht chuck installed most of the time. If I need to do milling, I use whatever er40 collet to chuck up the endmill or whatever.
But instead of a whole set of modified er11 or er20 collet chucks, why not just install a single 1/2" albrecht keyless drill chuck?
Several reason for not going with a chuck. 1) The chuck length is longer than the collet (although I'm sure there are many smaller than my chuck). 2) Time saver, eliminates finding the right side drill and putting it in the chuck. My collets are B&S #9 and hard its hard to find adapters so I'd have to put a straight shank on the keyless chuck and possibly install the correct collet. 3) I'm cheap, a good keyless chuck cost more than twice what I spent. I thought about keeping an ER collet adapter is my mill (I have collets and the adapter already) but the adapter adds length which is always a bad thing.
Well it does sound like that makes sense in your case. For mine the adapter from R8 to er40 was off the shelf. And pretty affordable. I suppose that brown and sharpe to eR 40 may not exist.
But I don't know what you're talking about Albrecht trucks being expensive. I found mine at an antique store for $5.😂
If you drill a lot of holes (and most projects have holes), the number one purchase must be a keyless chuck. It will get the most use of any tool in the workshop and easily pay for itself in weeks. Keyless chucks with an integral arbor are quite short. Buying a set of tapping size stub drills is a close second purchase.
@@TheBuildist I have an ER40 adapter but it adds 2.5" in length and takes a lot of time changing collets tighten the collet. The ER16 are very small and I never remove the tap drill. The B&S #9 and the R8 are way faster than a chuck or ER40
@@marley589 I love this tap drill in the ER16 collet holder and would never consider going back to a chuck for tap drills. The additional length is a pan even with the integrated arbor. When tapping the 3/8" collet stays in the mill. I Dill, install the counter sink, chamfer the hole and use then use the counter sink to guide the tap handle. Even a keyless chuck is not as fast and adds additional length. In general, you maybe right about having a keyless chuck but I've had terrible problems getting them to hold. I was using very expensive Rohm chucks but admittedly they were likely worn. However, in this case, the primary reason was to eliminate the chuck and it worked perfect.
G'day Mark. This is an excellent idea, especially if you have a few spares of each drill bit.
My HM54GV Mill is Metric as well as doing Imperial. The idea of one shank change over is Excellent.
Mine is a NT30 coupled with ER32 collett set, which I change over different collett sizes for the drill bits. Or just a standard 5/8 chuck with your mods
Thanks for the suggestion.
Ted
Thanks Ted, sound like a collet set and your all set! Ha
I bought a full set of R8 inch collets, after everyone told me I'd only use a few, just to use for drilling!
I have an ER40 collet chuck for metric sizes.
I have the most commonly used ones (that fit end mills) color coded.
Too lazy and cheap to do dedicated stuff.
I have ER40 for my lathe and a holder for the mill. I use it occasionally but in the mill but often on the lathe.
I have a number of parallel shank (Ø16) ER16 collets that I have reduced the length of, threaded the end to suit my Vertex Posilock chuck and added a centre hole as well for the Posilock. I have two different lengths so that the shorter small drills have similar reach to the longer ones. The advantage for me is that I have an R8 spindle and a Ø16 R8 collet. This means I have the flexibility to put long or short ER16 collets shanks into the R8 collet or to put them into the Posilock chuck that fits the R8 spindle. As a result it is rare to have to do any height changes due to headroom issues. I did have one recently where I had to drill a Ø14 hole though a depth of 90mm using a 2MT drill in a 2-3MT sleeve then a 3MT R8 collet. Just could not do a pilot hole then the 14mm hole without changing the headroom. ER16 collets have a 1mm range and a set will contain collets to fit any size between minimum and maximum as a result, never had to drill a collet out.
Sounds like a vecitial setup. The only reason I had to drill the collet was that i had two drills that were very close in size (#10-32 and #10-24).
I recently bought a Bridgeport clone. After one week I was sick of cranking that Z axis knee. I bought a Z axis power unit. A $125 well spent. Installed easy, and works great. Do yourself a favor.
That’s what I did. Power feed on all three axis is easier on the muscles and saves a lot of time. The Z axis is especially useful for lowering and raising the column quickly. Best money I ever spent.
No kidding! I plan to.
$125? Would you be able to share the link
Those stack ups get quite long. They’re real pains. Your solution is interesting. 😎👍
Yeah, I've used then 4 times so far... very nice.
Interesting solution, I started with ER32 so I don't have the same problem as you.I don't know what Brown and sharp tapers you have, but there are ER collet chucks with a Brown and Sharp taper. ER 32 collets cover a good range, quiet an investment! All the best!
I have an ER40 adapter. It's a better (than a chuck) option for drilling but changing drills in the larger collets is time consuming. Plus the B&S #9 in the mill plus the ER40 is a bit longer. For $75 bucks this set of holders and dills is really nice. Organized too. In the past i've tried to keep a drill with the taps but it seems like I lack self discipline. I end up setting the drill bit down and then it never makes it back to with the tap. Not I need to engrave the holders with the tap size.
Někdy taky potřebuji upravit hotovou tvrzenou stopku pro svoji frézku. Koukal jsem, že používáš plátky DCMT 070204 jako já. Pro tvrdé materiály používám DCMT070204 IC 907 nebo IC908. Když to náhodou tento plátek nevezme, mám ještě plátky DCMT070204 CBN - ty vezmou skoro vše. Bohužel sem nejdou dát odkazy, tak podle specifikace, co jsem napsal Aliexpres vyhledávač najde.
Pozdrav z České republiky a ať se daří👍
Tušil jsem, že na to existuje lepší vložka. Díky za udání. Budu dále zkoumat
What a clever solution . I'm going to have to get me some of those. And I'm going to have to make a spinner for the draw bar that can just stay in a clip on the machine instead of having to look fora wrench every time. Couldn't you have just used the right collet in the mill instead of turning down those hard steel shafts? Mine are R8. would that be a problem finding one? I made your thread tap guide a while back
My B&S #9 collets are hard to find in metric but that would have been the best option. Still it worked out well. I have a "spinner" for my drawbar but the Well Index had a really cool self ejecting drawbar. Mine was missing when I got the mill but I made one just like the original. Cool on the tap wrench, for being so simple it really works well. Thanks.
Can you use a 10mm side lock holder and switch short ER bars with one set screw. No need to use the drawbar every time.
That would work well going from drill to drill but I usually go from drill to mill so the collet change is needed anyway unless I was using a 10mm mill.
@WinkysWorkshop will you eventually have the corresponding taps in more ER holders. With the range currently set with all tapping drills the next tool is usually a tap.
@@marley589 Probably not. Power tapping a blind hole is too risky and my mill has worm drive in the quill will not let a tap be pulled into the work. After drilling I usually install a 3/8" countersink to chamfer the hole and then the back of my guided tap wrench fits the countersink bit. Currently my 3/8" bit has a 1/4" shank but I'll get one with a 3/8" shank. This will eliminate a collet change.
FWIW. I had a similar situation. I didn't turned the ER collet chuck shank down. I grind the BS collet ID to handle 10mm.
Furthermore. IMHO. The collet chuck's shank is the concentricity reference. When I was considering the same. I was thinking of chucking a piece of drill rod on the ER collet side so that concentricity between collet and shank can be maintained. But then, there is TIR runout tolerance on every collet. Current ER TIR reference is something like 0.007 mm.
I thought about getting a B&S 10mm collet (or modifying) but I wanted to be able to leave the collet in and switch to a 3/8" countersink bit or 3/8" end mill. In hindsight I should have made the ER adapters 1/2" as it is the most common size end mill I use. As for the concentricity, I'm guessing the OD is about the same as the collet. Certainly plenty close for drilling. They seem to be much better than most drill chucks.
@@WinkysWorkshop ER collet better TIR than drill chuck. Certainly. Hardly able to find TIR specs on drill chuck.
It's done. No need to discuss further. 😊😊😊
Happy new year.
@@ramonching7772 Yep, and I'm only using the collets for drills.
Looks very similar to the TTS style of work holding. Great video
I went on aliexpress and the er16 tts collets are similar price when shipping included
Maybe use your 3/4 bs collet for tts and a lot less adapting required?
THANKS! I had to look up the TSS, yes looks similar. I had no idea they existed. They have them in ER20 with a 3/4 shank on Aliexpress for $13.05. This would be a great option and less work although about $90 buck higher.
@ yes with a bit of digging around you can find er16 in a pair even tighter pricing.
Search
2pc TTS 3/4" STRAIGHT SHANK ER32 COLLET CHUCK TOOL HOLDR GAGE LENGTH WITH GROOVE PRACTICAL TOOL ACCESSORIES
Will strangely give a link to er16 collets despite the title saying er32 for around au $16 each in the pair
@@jirvin4505 I'm sure... amazingly cheap
Excellent vid. Mark. Unfortunately, stubby drills are uncommon in UK and very expensive 😞
Try finding them under “screw machine length drills” which is their correct name.
Sorry to hear that. Not common here but not very expensive. I think I paid $27 for 20 drills.
I worked as the support engineer in an engineering company for many years. I always supplied short series drills for the pipe fitters who had to drill 3mm pilot holes in 316 stainless. They were much easier to use in a hand drill when drilling holes in a piece of pipe where stiffness not depth was the best option.
@ absolutely!
@@martinconnelly1473 Yeah,, I like them better for many things.
Lot of work. I would have used a 1/2 inch collet and made a split sleeve with a 10 mm reamed hole. Regards from Australia.
It wasn't too bad, a one time effort. I've already used them 4 times... very handy.
Very nice video mr Winky. Interesting. Very clever. Thanks
Glad you enjoyed it
BUEN TRABAJO ,VEO QUE TE GUSTA MAS LAS PULGADAS A LOS MILIMETROS
Inch is the primary system used in the US and my machines are all in Inch
😊
Thanks
I def agree… fractional is not the brightest idea… us Americans gotta be different.
I don't mind the inch system but if I grew up with metric I would despise fractions. In fact I don't like dealing with them if they are not in 16th. What is crazy is that we never made the switch to metric.
wINKY COULDN,T YOU JUST BUY A 10MM COLLET?
No, I can't find one. The basic fractional collets are available bit anythings else is hard to find. Honestly, the B&S collet is much better than R8.
Not machining for nearly 2 years but recognizing the problem. Collet chucks use less length than Jacobs chucks. Cutting drillbits to shorter length is an alternative but then drilling deep holes lacks drill bits...
Haha, "retarded fractional system". Sorry US guys but I think the same.
Ha... I like the fractional but it's hard to argue that it's better. Of course I grew up with it. It's 100% in my head, I even have most the decimal equivalents memorized.