High Todd when you are talking ubou adjusting Elevation in this Video you saty to turn the turret anticlockwise to move the POI up. I am a little confused. Did you actually mean to say Clockwise?
I think the multiple hash marks in a scope not lining up “exactly” at 20, 30 and so on is what confuses a lot of people. Very very seldom are these things going to work out at exact yardages on a rifle or crossbow. A reticle with multiple sub tensions are not meant for precise spot shooting. They are meant to keep you in the kill zone of an animal. The best way to sight in for c a crossbow is dead on at 30 with top/main reticle and move back in yardage and see what happens at 35, 40, 45 and so on depending on the crossbow. My bow for example is sighted dead on at 30 and at 35 I’m at the bottom edge of a 21/2 inch bull. At 40 I’m within an inch of deD center with the second sub tension and 45 I’m at the bottom of the bull again. Jut keep in mind that these reticles are more for hunting situations than multiple yardage precision shooting.
Who says "They are meant to keep you in the kill zone of an animal." What a bizarre hunting perspective! Surely the point of any kind of sight is that you hit what you are aiming at? If target archery on a range is what you do then Exact yardages are important. I think makers of telescopic sights do their best to keep this in mind also
I think that is a good idea. When I first started I was like. How can I move the 30 and 40 yrs lines up or down and leave the 20 alone!! lol. But buy moving the target back and dialing it in on the money. Even if it is 32 and 43. Even if 20 is perfect. You have an idea of where to put those lines on the target to be more accurate. Great advice!
Okay, funny story: shot my crossbow 4 times, same bolt and its consistently hitting into the same hole... A foot up and left of the target while my crosshairs are exactly on the bullseye. 😅 So any advice on scope sighting would be awesome. I was told you turn the dial in the same direction as you are shooting off of. Shooting left, turn it left. Advice? 🤷♀️ I've barely touched the dials as I'm deathly afraid of muffing something up.
I agree with everything you said but I don't think firing 1 arrow is going to give you a good judgement point. I usually fire at least 2. That way you can be sure you didn't hook or slice the 1 arrow. Its impossible to get an average on 1. 2 or even 3 is much better.. That's my opinion anyway. Thanks for posting this. God bless!
If you turret sight in at 20 metres you can also use the speed ring to set the remaining reticles at 10 metre intervals. Useful for Countries where target Archery distances are in metres!!
Caution. This procedure does not apply to some crossbow scopes. Especially for those with variable speed selectors, like for Ravin crossbow and included scope. That scope must be zeroed in with the sight dot that is in the very center of scope (defined by crosshairs). In the case of my crossbow, the center dot is at the 50 yd point. Closer yardage dots are above the crosshairs center. The reason is, for spherical lens, the only point on lens whose alignment is not affected by magnification change is the very center point of lens. So the windage and elevation adjustments must be used on the center point only. In my case, the 50 yd dot. The remaining range dots are proportionally spaced to allow for arrow drop. The trick is to get the image magnification (speed of arrows setting on scope) at right value to make the target image align with the other range dots. In the Ravin scope procedure, the 20 yd point is used to adjust the magnification (speed) so that the 20 yd dot aligns perfectly with impact point on target. Remember, the 50 yd dot is unaffected by magnification change. Thus you have two dead-on points: 50 yd and 20 yds. The remaining range dots, which are affected by magnification change, will be very close for a normal flying arrow.
i read some say they have to change their speed dial at certain yards. which i can understand based on arrow flight, drop, etc. i agree with the curve of the lens affecting different yards. one would think somebody would solve that problem. beings it seems to be one. it would be nice if you could adjust each reticle individually. not exactly how that could be done by design. like a pin sight on a compound bow.
I had a simiilar problem where my actual trigger and scope mechanism was not tight enough and had moved up on me check all you're screws and tighten them sorry hard to explain
a scope on a crossbow is like between a compound bow and a rifle. and using a scope can be a real pita. be nice if each reticle could be individually adjusted like a pin sight on a bow. bet that will never happen. that would make it a perfect world for crossbows. i actually thought about an hha optimizer with a scope for better accuracy. i used one on my bow and it was spot on at every yard. they do make a crossbow optimizer. but for the price I'm not sure if it would be worth it. its high dollar even without their scope with it. like $270. less the scope.
It's the same as a rifle and a compound bow. If it shoots left you move the radical left, if it shoots right move it to the right. It's the same for up and down, if it's high move it up and if its low move it down.
What do you think of this setup I set my top scope lines at 35 yards that gets me 15 years difference from 20 to 35 from 35 to 50 15 yards difference equal now I just use my topscope line and at 35 I'm dead on at 50 yards 2in low 20 yards 2in high so I got kill shots from 20 to 50 yards using one scoped line
Don't understand your thinking here. Why not zero top line at 20, move out to 30 and make adjustments. Most newer scopes at 30 are adjusting for arrow speed to raise or lower impact point, i.e. hitting low at 30 yds lower speed, hitting high increase speed. Once that is done you are dead on at any distance, in my case I'm shooting the Mission Sub-1 with the Hawke 1.5 5x32. Top line is at 20, 30, 40, 50 on out to 100 yds which I would never ever attempt a shot on an animal at that distance but I am comfortable at 40 and 50 yds. For me that's way more confusing but if it works for you then right on Brother and happy hunting!
Higher quality scope means what is more accurate that 1 click equals 1/4 inch or 1 click equals less than a quarter inch I was confused by that statement
What if my speed ring doesn’t adjust anything I had it at 375 which is what it sighted in last year switched to a 125 grain this year from 100 grain and I’ve moved it all the way down to 325 and my arrow is still hitting the same spot at 30
Ok, I have a question. I just bought a Ravin R10 crossbow, and in the state I live in you cannot use a magnified scope. So I have to put a red dot sight on my Ravin R10. I bought a Leopold Freedom red dot. Ok here is the issue. I started trying to sight the bow at 10 yard hit left turned the red dot as far to the right and it would turn and I'm hitting in the same place, up and down I am good, but the bow is hitting about 6" to the left. So I think maybe I just need to be further away from the target, I move to 20 yard back. Hitting 6" left same spot. I turn the sight all the way to the left just to see and shoot at 20 yards, and hit 6" from center so no matter what way I turn the sight left or right it hits in the same place. Is the red dot messed up or I there something I am missing? The sight was put on at my bow shop. So I would think it is on correct. But you never know. I just wanted to know if I should send the scope to Leopold or if there was something I could try to fix it. Thanks for any help. Great video.
First thought is you have a faulty scope. Could be that someone turned it to an extreme position and broke the adjustment threads. Or it was never correct from factory. Last thought is that it is mounted incorrectly. Not level with too much scope tilt? Backwards? Surely not. I don’t expect my comments to help. Just offer directions for thought.
question my crossbow i can hit bulls eye with field tip but my broadheads not hitting target. do u have any tip of why my broadheads not hitting same as field tips? i have used fixed and mechanical broadheads.
Check your cam timing, my guess would be is your bolt is not coming out of the bow straight as can be. With a field point your fletchings will correct this quickly but a broadhead will tend to steer the front of the bolt since they have more surface area than a field point. This causes the bolt to "plane" off target. With a perfectly timed bow that is drawn back square and a straight high quality broadhead you should be on the same target as your field points.
@@toddlambright6878 I like Todd Lambright’s comments. Right on. Some added thought: I’m assuming: you have same weight broadheads as field points, spline of arrows correct for bow power? Too low spline, then arrow bends excessively, exposing broadheads to side/planeing forces. Same forces would not affect field points as much. Best way to test this is find some mechanical broadheads with almost zero planing surfaces for a test comparison. I would try Todd’s suggestions first.
Then it is just wayyyy to close in. You may have a clicker on the side of your crossbow that can lift and lower the scope, that could have something to do with it being so closely sighted. But I am sure you know a little more than I'm giving you credit for. It may just be time to set a target out and readjust. I did it today actually.
I like the idea of moving back a bit and none where dead center is, rather than constantly fiddling with the adjusters. If you can’t shoot with a little KY windage, stay out of the woods.
@@pajownik actually no. The trajectory is extremely similar. The issue, I found out, actually comes from crossbow scope manufacturers. They build them with the directional arrows on the turrets in the opposite direction. I do not know why they do this absurd action. The scope is still sighted in by moving the reticle to the bolt instead of the bolt to the reticle. Manufacturing companies have just decided to make it backwards so that you have to think of it in a messed up way.
@@ch1tbag442 Oh I get that they're both close to parabola. However, The bullet from a rifle has a kinetic energy magnitudes greater than a bolt. Therefore the trajectory of a bullet is MUCH flatter. As for scope adjustments. I understand that you can fix pretty much any scope on modern crossbow. If there are different types, they may be adjusted differently. I don't see anything wrong in the video. It's for beginners anyway.
I could barely hear it your volume is so low that you have to put it up to your ear to hear it and then you can't see it sorry had to pass to another video
This is an excellent video if you’re looking on how to site a crossbow scope. Very clearly explained.
Thank you so much for making this easy and simple. Mine kept going way left and it took me not even 15 minutes to zero it in with your help.
Thanks for explaining how those lower crosshairs might not line up in 10 yard increments
Awesome Information. Just bought my first Crossbow today.
High Todd when you are talking ubou adjusting Elevation in this Video you saty to turn the turret anticlockwise to move the POI up. I am a little confused. Did you actually mean to say Clockwise?
Thank you much. Just tuned my bow up to 30 yards 3 inch group.
I think the multiple hash marks in a scope not lining up “exactly” at 20, 30 and so on is what confuses a lot of people. Very very seldom are these things going to work out at exact yardages on a rifle or crossbow. A reticle with multiple sub tensions are not meant for precise spot shooting. They are meant to keep you in the kill zone of an animal. The best way to sight in for c a crossbow is dead on at 30 with top/main reticle and move back in yardage and see what happens at 35, 40, 45 and so on depending on the crossbow. My bow for example is sighted dead on at 30 and at 35 I’m at the bottom edge of a 21/2 inch bull. At 40 I’m within an inch of deD center with the second sub tension and 45 I’m at the bottom of the bull again. Jut keep in mind that these reticles are more for hunting situations than multiple yardage precision shooting.
Who says "They are meant to keep you in the kill zone of an animal." What a bizarre hunting perspective! Surely the point of any kind of sight is that you hit what you are aiming at? If target archery on a range is what you do then Exact yardages are important. I think makers of telescopic sights do their best to keep this in mind also
I think that is a good idea. When I first started I was like. How can I move the 30 and 40 yrs lines up or down and leave the 20 alone!! lol. But buy moving the target back and dialing it in on the money. Even if it is 32 and 43. Even if 20 is perfect. You have an idea of where to put those lines on the target to be more accurate. Great advice!
Okay, funny story: shot my crossbow 4 times, same bolt and its consistently hitting into the same hole... A foot up and left of the target while my crosshairs are exactly on the bullseye. 😅
So any advice on scope sighting would be awesome. I was told you turn the dial in the same direction as you are shooting off of. Shooting left, turn it left. Advice? 🤷♀️ I've barely touched the dials as I'm deathly afraid of muffing something up.
I agree with everything you said but I don't think firing 1 arrow is going to give you a good judgement point. I usually fire at least 2. That way you can be sure you didn't hook or slice the 1 arrow. Its impossible to get an average on 1. 2 or even 3 is much better.. That's my opinion anyway. Thanks for posting this. God bless!
I agree I've shot even more to make sure it wasn't wind me or the bow itslef
One bolt is enough. I sighted in a new PSE yesterday. Shot one and adjusted. Worked for me.
It seemed to me that the "one Arrow" at 10 yards was simply to ensure the first arrow at 20 yards was going to hit the target
I usually will set my top line at 35 yrds and work down from there, up to 75 on my scope. But I've only shot at 50 yrds a handful of times.
thank you, thank you, thank you. i knew how to sight main crosshair for targets, but i never knew how to use the multi line crosshairs. amazing!!!
If you turret sight in at 20 metres you can also use the speed ring to set the remaining reticles at 10 metre intervals. Useful for Countries where target Archery distances are in metres!!
Caution. This procedure does not apply to some crossbow scopes. Especially for those with variable speed selectors, like for Ravin crossbow and included scope. That scope must be zeroed in with the sight dot that is in the very center of scope (defined by crosshairs). In the case of my crossbow, the center dot is at the 50 yd point. Closer yardage dots are above the crosshairs center. The reason is, for spherical lens, the only point on lens whose alignment is not affected by magnification change is the very center point of lens. So the windage and elevation adjustments must be used on the center point only. In my case, the 50 yd dot. The remaining range dots are proportionally spaced to allow for arrow drop. The trick is to get the image magnification (speed of arrows setting on scope) at right value to make the target image align with the other range dots. In the Ravin scope procedure, the 20 yd point is used to adjust the magnification (speed) so that the 20 yd dot aligns perfectly with impact point on target. Remember, the 50 yd dot is unaffected by magnification change. Thus you have two dead-on points: 50 yd and 20 yds. The remaining range dots, which are affected by magnification change, will be very close for a normal flying arrow.
i read some say they have to change their speed dial at certain yards. which i can understand based on arrow flight, drop, etc. i agree with the curve of the lens affecting different yards. one would think somebody would solve that problem. beings it seems to be one. it would be nice if you could adjust each reticle individually. not exactly how that could be done by design. like a pin sight on a compound bow.
Clockwise not counter clockwise
Mine is ccw to the right
Thank you ... Great Video and Information, Thanks and God Bless .
My evo x is maxed out at 450 as far down and left it can go and still not zeroed 😢
I had a simiilar problem where my actual trigger and scope mechanism was not tight enough and had moved up on me check all you're screws and tighten them sorry hard to explain
@@marklaas4475 I went back and my bow tech verified I wasn’t incompetent and gave me an upgrade from a 450 to a 470 because I wanted that scope
a scope on a crossbow is like between a compound bow and a rifle. and using a scope can be a real pita. be nice if each reticle could be individually adjusted like a pin sight on a bow. bet that will never happen. that would make it a perfect world for crossbows. i actually thought about an hha optimizer with a scope for better accuracy. i used one on my bow and it was spot on at every yard. they do make a crossbow optimizer. but for the price I'm not sure if it would be worth it. its high dollar even without their scope with it. like $270. less the scope.
It's the same as a rifle and a compound bow. If it shoots left you move the radical left, if it shoots right move it to the right. It's the same for up and down, if it's high move it up and if its low move it down.
Yeap. On our scope's. 🤔😁
Remember to match the grain of your broadhead to whatever field tips you’re using to sight in
I understood what you meant but you were saying counter clockwise when you should have said clockwise. Just FYI. Other than that, good video.
Thank you Matt Damon!
What do you think of this setup I set my top scope lines at 35 yards that gets me 15 years difference from 20 to 35 from 35 to 50 15 yards difference equal now I just use my topscope line and at 35 I'm dead on at 50 yards 2in low 20 yards 2in high so I got kill shots from 20 to 50 yards using one scoped line
Don't understand your thinking here. Why not zero top line at 20, move out to 30 and make adjustments. Most newer scopes at 30 are adjusting for arrow speed to raise or lower impact point, i.e. hitting low at 30 yds lower speed, hitting high increase speed. Once that is done you are dead on at any distance, in my case I'm shooting the Mission Sub-1 with the Hawke 1.5 5x32. Top line is at 20, 30, 40, 50 on out to 100 yds which I would never ever attempt a shot on an animal at that distance but I am comfortable at 40 and 50 yds. For me that's way more confusing but if it works for you then right on Brother and happy hunting!
Higher quality scope means what is more accurate that 1 click equals 1/4 inch or 1 click equals less than a quarter inch I was confused by that statement
What if my speed ring doesn’t adjust anything I had it at 375 which is what it sighted in last year switched to a 125 grain this year from 100 grain and I’ve moved it all the way down to 325 and my arrow is still hitting the same spot at 30
Thank you for the info.
I got mine set at 20, 30, 40, and 50, but for my odd numbers I’m having to aim a little higher. Like in between the reticles.
what do you do if your clicks are maxed and still not correct???
great explanation. thanks.
Perfect thanks so much.
Please come back to make more videos
Ok, I have a question. I just bought a Ravin R10 crossbow, and in the state I live in you cannot use a magnified scope. So I have to put a red dot sight on my Ravin R10. I bought a Leopold Freedom red dot. Ok here is the issue. I started trying to sight the bow at 10 yard hit left turned the red dot as far to the right and it would turn and I'm hitting in the same place, up and down I am good, but the bow is hitting about 6" to the left. So I think maybe I just need to be further away from the target, I move to 20 yard back. Hitting 6" left same spot. I turn the sight all the way to the left just to see and shoot at 20 yards, and hit 6" from center so no matter what way I turn the sight left or right it hits in the same place. Is the red dot messed up or I there something I am missing? The sight was put on at my bow shop. So I would think it is on correct. But you never know. I just wanted to know if I should send the scope to Leopold or if there was something I could try to fix it. Thanks for any help. Great video.
First thought is you have a faulty scope. Could be that someone turned it to an extreme position and broke the adjustment threads. Or it was never correct from factory. Last thought is that it is mounted incorrectly. Not level with too much scope tilt? Backwards? Surely not. I don’t expect my comments to help. Just offer directions for thought.
Great video thank u
Thank you!
someone with a diagram. OMG finally
question my crossbow i can hit bulls eye with field tip but my broadheads not hitting target. do u have any tip of why my broadheads not hitting same as field tips? i have used fixed and mechanical broadheads.
Check your cam timing, my guess would be is your bolt is not coming out of the bow straight as can be. With a field point your fletchings will correct this quickly but a broadhead will tend to steer the front of the bolt since they have more surface area than a field point. This causes the bolt to "plane" off target. With a perfectly timed bow that is drawn back square and a straight high quality broadhead you should be on the same target as your field points.
@@toddlambright6878 I like Todd Lambright’s comments. Right on. Some added thought: I’m assuming: you have same weight broadheads as field points, spline of arrows correct for bow power? Too low spline, then arrow bends excessively, exposing broadheads to side/planeing forces. Same forces would not affect field points as much. Best way to test this is find some mechanical broadheads with almost zero planing surfaces for a test comparison. I would try Todd’s suggestions first.
I can't hear you. Audio is too low.
My scope is way off then, because my bottom reticle is dead on at 10 yards
Then it is just wayyyy to close in. You may have a clicker on the side of your crossbow that can lift and lower the scope, that could have something to do with it being so closely sighted. But I am sure you know a little more than I'm giving you credit for. It may just be time to set a target out and readjust. I did it today actually.
It would be great if we could hear you
Just listen
Good explanation, but really bad audio, thanks
I like the idea of moving back a bit and none where dead center is, rather than constantly fiddling with the adjusters. If you can’t shoot with a little KY windage, stay out of the woods.
Exactly. This is what experienced shooters know.
He looks like a buff version of Theo Von. GangGang
I can't hear you
It’s you man we can hear him fine
couldn't hear you, or see what you were doing.
It is hard to look at this guy! What is on his neck?chin?.
Fix the sound bro
Audio is way too low can't hear you
Can't hardly hear your video, can you redo it and speak louder?
Fix your audio! I can't hear you, I don't watch you.
Can't even here what your saying
Matt Damon?
You clearly have never sighted in a rifle....
The video is about crossbow. I would imagine that there are drastic differences between the trajectory of rifle bullet and crossbow bolt?
@@pajownik actually no. The trajectory is extremely similar. The issue, I found out, actually comes from crossbow scope manufacturers. They build them with the directional arrows on the turrets in the opposite direction. I do not know why they do this absurd action. The scope is still sighted in by moving the reticle to the bolt instead of the bolt to the reticle. Manufacturing companies have just decided to make it backwards so that you have to think of it in a messed up way.
@@ch1tbag442 Oh I get that they're both close to parabola. However, The bullet from a rifle has a kinetic energy magnitudes greater than a bolt. Therefore the trajectory of a bullet is MUCH flatter. As for scope adjustments. I understand that you can fix pretty much any scope on modern crossbow. If there are different types, they may be adjusted differently. I don't see anything wrong in the video. It's for beginners anyway.
With the left and right….you got it all wrong dude.
need a mic on you shirt
Nope you follow even on a crossbow
What do you mean?
I could barely hear it your volume is so low that you have to put it up to your ear to hear it and then you can't see it sorry had to pass to another video
audio sucks bad
Thumbs down couldnt hear it
RE DO THE VIDEO SO WE CAN HEAR YOU TWINKLE TOES
get a microphone
Volume is too low!!! Frustrated after 15 sec of not hearing so worthless
Womp womp