New Ski Tuning & Waxing
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- Опубликовано: 29 ноя 2015
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Ski service is done with affordable tools for an intermediate skier on Elan Amphibio skis.
SHOP all tools in video -- goo.gl/r33ZRw Download FREE Ski wax guide -- goo.gl/YFhiat
1.Check for flatness 2. Ski base edge tuning 3. Sidewall cutting 4. Side edge tuning 5. Ski base cleaning 6. Ski wax application 7. Scraping and brushing after wax 8. Bindings adjustments.
Brands: Holmenkol, Snoli, Skiman, SKS, Kunzmann
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Nice work!!
watched just enough you tube videos on ski tuning to be dangerous
Harika tesekkür
sidewall cutting and prep materials used? also anything different when sidewall shaping for full cambered snwoboards?
Hi,
Following several RUclips "tutorials" I've started waxing my families skis. It's quite fun doing it by yourself.
Still one aspect is unclear: after a couple of waxing days, tiny, fine particles of wax are trapped on the brush / bristles.
How do you clean your brushes?
Thanks,
Alex
Alex Radu use a brass brush or “file brush”
6
Why would new skis need such work?
new skis do not come tuned from factory and need to be tuned before using
Linda Cardinal Define 'tuned'. New skis have a bevel on both the metal side & edge, and wax on the base. If you're not a racer or wannabe, why would you want to alter what the factory has done?
The wax on the base that is added in the factory is just that, a factory wax. This simply isn't as good as a wax coat you would get from a tuning (what is being done in this video). This prevents the base of the ski from drying out and shrinking over time. Additionally, while the bevel that is on the edges is plenty sharp enough for just about any conditions, a step that is not done in the factory is the detuning that is done on the edges at the tip and tail. This provides a little forgiveness at the beginning and end of each turn so you are not catching edges constantly. Lastly, his first step of checking for flatness is one that may only need to be done for fatter skis. The reality is manufacturing tolerances over such a large area could result in a base that isn't perfectly flat. This tolerance is exacerbated on wider skis as any slight error gets amplified over the larger area.
So no, you don't have to be a wannabe or a racer to want to alter what the factory is done. You just have to want your new skis to be as easy as possible to ski.
cm1547 So what wax do ski factories use, and how does this differ from commercially available waxes? Do factories deliberately turn out their skis with inferior wax?
As for detuning the skis, I read that was important with the old 'straight' skis to prevent them hooking up, but it's a matter of personal preference with shorter, more profiled modern skis.
@@Benzknees Yes. The ingredients are of lower quality and contain no additives and most often the wax is too soft (i.e. for warm conditions) as soft wax is easier to handle (i.e. apply) than hard wax (lower temperature needed, floats easier). There is specific transport and stock/workshop wax developped for application with a machine. Further, as everybody would set up the saddle height and pump their bicycle tires to the desired pressure, edges need to be filed to the desired angle. Most skis come in a 90 or 89,5 ° angle from stock. You will want to adjust that to your abilities and/or the conditions. Note that on pure manmade snow a 87° edge will be noticably dull after only a couple of runs. So as you set up and later mostly only repump your bike everytime you go for a ride (else you suffer from high rolling resistance and/or inferior handling, curving etc.), you should also wax and file your skis. No offense, but he who thinks that's unnecessary is a wannabe really.
T
the person not correctly uses brushes
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