I replaced the hydraulic lifters in my 5.7 litre Chevrolet LS1 V8 engine about 4 years ago & it's still going good, they were just noisy once the engine warmed up & I checked the oil pressure which passed GMs specifications so it wasn't caused by an oil pressure issue. It didn't have an oil change for 17,000 kilometres (10,500 miles approx) once in its life before I bought the car (Holden VY SS Commodore sedan) & the LS1 lifters tended to be known for becoming noisy for some reason. So I replaced them with aftermarket LS7 items as well as a brand new Rollmaster timing chain & Melling timing chain damper & adaptor bracket while the timing cover was removed because the timing cover gasket was leaking. I have had no problems with it ever since & yes, there's people over here in Australia who would've just bolted another engine in instead as well !
RUclips just served this video up to me, and I have to admit you have really blown my mind. Way back in my younger days my brother and I rebuilt several late 70's / early 80's Chevy 350's. When you started this tear down I was expecting that once you got to the insides it would all look familiar, but wow, I was so wrong. The only things I recognized were the pistons, connecting rods, crankshaft, camshaft and push rods, nothing else looked familiar. It's been 40+ years since I did any serious mechanic work, I had no idea that engines had changed so much. The insides of a bow-tie 350 were so simple compared to this engine. All I can say is "Wow, just wow." Great video, by the way.
For those who are interested a good trick to remove a stuck and broken off dipstick tube from an LS engine block(better then pushing it into the pan and leaving it there) is to find a M6 x 1mm bolt, 3 to 4 inches long, and thread into the dipstick(the bolt will make the threads it needs) and knock the piece of dipstick back and forth until it comes out.
You'd be surprised at all the things you can find in an oil pan. I've found bolts, a 10 mm wrench, an 8 mm swivel socket, 1/2 of a crank sensor, and a whole bunch of broken engine parts. I may be forgetting some things too.
weird. I just pulled a LH6 5.3 l at the wrecking yard today and brought it in the shop not even half an hour ago. So far looks like a winner! all I see is a broken timing chain guide. Pulling the heads, lifters and cam next! I do cars too😉
Many of these engines end up being scrapped simply because of bad head bolt threads. I'm slowly working on mine and it's mint looking after 130k but sadly head bolt threads have crapped out and need to be redone.
Please don’t think I’m being negative or trying kill your dreams. The Cadillac Northstar is not an engine I would give to my worst enemy. They have so many problems with the majority being head gasket leaking from the minute it left the dealership. Do yourself a favor run from this engine that poses as a northstar.
@@dreece2000 The many years after the head bolt fix, proved Northstars were very reliable, and powerful motors. People just only remember the bad things about something lately,
As far as that cross, I have found 2 different setups depending on the engine. Someone will always counter but on untouched stuff I have always found this true. If the engine has 799 heads on it, it has those pock marked piston with the cross cast in. Find the same engine but with 243 heads on it, it has the smooth pistons without the crosses. I assume its just assembly plant parts supply things.
Another good tear down video. I do like the slightly longer videos. With all the different brands and accessories', I have learned so much watchig them every week. Keep up the good work. Wishing you and the family congratulations on the new family member.
I see this about once a month at work. DOD failure is not an option, but only a matter of when. Best thing to do is a DOD Delete kit if you are buying one. By the looks of this one. Oil Changes went a few thousand over due, and cheap off brand oil was used a lot. Just keep this one thing in mind when it comes to engine oil. Good isn't cheap, and cheap isn't good. Plus an oil treatment like Lucas or BG's MOA is worth the extra bucks. I use Lucas in my 2003 Ranger with over 300,000 on the clock, and my 2003 Forester with 200,000 on it. Both are original engines and still gets me where I need to go. And the insides look nice and clean when I replaced the valve cover gaskets on the Ranger, and Head Gaskets on the Subaru (also handy tip. On the EJ 2.5. Use the turbo WRX gaskets and Dexcool, and never worry about them again).
My 03 5.3 has 548,629 as of right this minute. Only o rings on pick up tube and intake gasket is as deep in as I've been on it. I'm second owner and I know the other guy. I bought it off him at around 180,000. I just use 10/30 control in winter and 10/40 in summer. Sorta on 4000 mile changes. Every other change I'll put trans fluid in a couple days before to clean it out. I think another important thing that I do religiously is let her warm up to temp in the morning before hitting the road. Edit: it does smoke on start up now and started that at about 500,000. Still runs hard and don't give it any slack.
I honestly don't see any value in adding Lucas in a engine, especially when the bearing tolerances are crucial to the lifespan of the engine. On a cold start in winter has it occurred to ya that the viscosity is changed causing the oil to increase premature wear due to the amount of oil at the cam,mains,and rod journals is less than what it should be? Just run regular 5W30 synthetic blend and your engine will be right as rain. Now a REAL oil additive that does not alter the viscosity number is MOA from BG, I have never seen a engine failure from the use of this product, I stand on that with the one leg i have left too!!!
My truck had one owner before I bought it (2011 Silverado 5.3) and has a good history on oil changes. I change oil every 4-5k, when it hits the 20% change. I’m at 176k and it’s running well. I still hate the DOD but it is what it is.
I wonder if the cross adds strength? ....or heat dissipation? .......or compression.....and all of that having to do with it's location relative to the engine compartment of that particular model. Just a guess.
Great presentation, As a retired mechanic seeing many other vids makes me shudder. A little tip I used to do in same situation albeit trying to save everything is once you have movement get the heads off before forcing and use a bottle brush hone to clean the cylinders of rust. Can save damage to piston lands.
What a great channel. Love watching the teardowns and I enjoy the rescue/resto videos as well. Could you maybe show a before & after cleaning of the parts you intend to keep? I would be especially interested to see how the heads & blocks turn out after you run them through the parts washer since a lot of the cores you get were left out in the elements. All the best to you and your family and thanks for the quality content!
Having torn down lots of engines (usually in far worse condition than this one) I really love these videos, mostly because it's someone else getting his hands dirty lol!! But, very thorough job, and nicely diagnosed. Clearly this motor had had some work done (broken dipstick, head bolts not all torqued down, missing sump bolts), but you got some good saleable bits out of it, so a win!
Love your content, though I recognize that this is a huge amount of work -- likely 3 hours of editing on top of the teardown. I appreciate that you do it; and I have to say, this is really clever marketing. Thousands of people see your product, see how you handle it, and see what your values are. Really smart, and well done.
I have an 07 Avalanche and had this problem. Actually it's not an easy call to replace a bad lifter as there are a number of parts that should be replaced along with the lifters if you want an engine you can count on. When the AFM lifters go they usually have $1600 in upgrade parts to comply with the service notices and even then it seems the valve problems cause oil to get sucked past rings and they stick and have high oil consumption. I ended up buying a factory remain for about $4200 and swapping it out. I had good results after about 50000 miles on the remain everything has been great. One thing I found surprising was that GM really wanted the core back, REALLY! The core charge was $2000 and that makes me wonder what sort of knuckle head left this engine out in the rain?
The moment I saw the "textbook failure" I wondered if it was a DoD/AFM failure. Shame this engine was condemned for just that. Delete kit and it would've been on the road again.
I do an L96 swap a couple times a year, and yeah that dipstick is a pain. I had one break like that, and now I just pull the pan and knock it out from the underside.
Great tear down. That block was super dirty inside. No wonder it developed an oiling problem, most with the dod lifter failure is due to shoddy service intervals. My first vid, I think I’ll become a regular. As an engine builder, keeps my eyes sharp.
On something like that - could the original mechanics have pulled the pan, seen no forbidden glitter, and then gone straight to the valve covers to discover a stuck lifter? Then the engine could have been repaired? I'm just wondering. I had a lifter get stuck and collapse in my first car, a '69 Buick Skylark with the 350 engine. We got the collapsed lifter out and replaced it and the pushrod, and it kept going...
The vaunted LS . I started buying them after realizing they'll be in high demand for the next century or 2. Alum blocks , even more so . Super Compact[fit in anything] , Inexpensive High HP potential. All 4.8 -5.3 iron bloks easily bore to 3.90 LS1 5.7 spec.[$400 in Austin Tx] . If you don't have one , get it kwik , keep it dry. Lithium spray is a good long term preservative.
I picked up a 2010 Silverado 5.3 DOD pickup with 110K on the clock. The previous owner had the GM recall where they replaced cam/lifters/oil pump/DOD system. Put another 10K on it without any issues - lifters are quiet and oil pressure is normal. The previous owner faithfully used the Oil Life Indicator as indicator to change the oil plus used name brand oil + decent filters. I have changed the oil several times and always use Mobile 1 high mileage synthetic. It took a few changes to get the oil to stay light-colored and not turn dark. I believe the oil life system isn't the best indicator of when to change the oil especially in New England where every winter a lot of vehicles will be in 'severe service' operation due to excessive idling/not warming up. Hoping it will keep running strong and the problems will be limited to the GM electrical system that we all are used to fixing!
The lifters only fail in the collapsed position. If you disable AFM, the lifters do will longer collapse, which prevents them from failing. GM engines are still superior.
About a month and a half ago I bought a 2008 Silverado with 148k with one of these engines. 2 weeks after owning it cyl 1 dod lifter collapsed. The same exact location as on this engine. It took me and a buddy a weekend to get it fixed as we’ve never taken apart one of these engines and weren’t prepared for this to happen at All. After getting it fixed with just a few new lifters, everything is running smoother than when I purchased the truck. I’ve since bought a range technology module that doesn’t allow it to go into 4 cyl mode and I just finished up a nice road trip with 0 hiccups whatsoever so I suppose I was one of the lucky ones where only a few lifters took care of the problem. The cam and all other parts that can get wiped out were okay on it, I guess I caught it early enough. The previous owners must have taken decent care as the inside of the engine seemed pretty clean to me also.
The cross on top is from dies during the casting process. I used to work for a security company at GM and seen many of those pistons. I'd bet those pistons have a GMPT-B on the side from GM powertrain casting facility in Bedford INDIANA.
I would watch no matter how long I wish that I worked for you, I always loved to tear down and assemble motor and transmission. Even out of the vehicle depending on what it is and where it is at.
"if you start noticing issues, stop driving immediately" Solid advice. But I was curious. I had a seized lifter in my 2012 GMC Sierra. Knew I would be doing a motor because I also had low oil pressure issues. But as I said, I was curious. So I kept driving it on 7 cylinders with low oil pressure. Pretty soon the seized lifter on 6 managed to wipe out cylinder 8. At that point I stopped driving it, mostly because it wouldn't drive. I didn't know it at the time, but I also had the classic oil consumption problems. Piston skirts, glazed cylinder walls, PCV, etc. I promise I'm taking much better care of the new motor. I just didn't care about the old one because I bought the truck used. Previous owner didn't keep up with oil changes. It was too late by the time I took ownership.
What a great channel I really enjoy watching all tear downs. It is awesome when you get a lot good parts from the engine. It would be nice to see more around the parts washer. Thank you for all the hard work making these video's us.
Enjoyed the video :) Would love to see anything Honda K24, or GM 3800 series. Plentiful motors, both highly regarded (granted not so much the Series II) but still reliable motors sold in many vehicles. High likelihood many viewers have owned one, or multiple of these.
So mostly im seeing it failed because the oil looks to have never been changed on time, and when it was, they put the cheapest oil they could find in it. Not a good move on these modern engines with the dod afm, vvt, turbochargers etc. oems are suggesting oil change intervals that are way too long with technology thats extremely sensitive to having clean oil that hasnt lost its viscosity. Engines blowing up prematurely is clearly the result.
Holy Cow, I didn’t know you guys were located in Hazelwood, MO. I used to live in Hazelwood as a kid and even went to Hazelwood Central high school for a semester my freshman year. In fact, I lived all over the St.Louis metro including on the IL, side of the river. I still have family there as well. I know live in Kansas, just on the west side of the MO boarder. Thanks for the awesome video
Bought chevys since the 80s. Really enjoyed the gm points when it came time to buy a new one. Always had 2 or 3k knocked off my best negotiated price. 2015 silverado blew up at 70k. Needed 5grand to rebuild so I traded it in for a new 2018. I assumed I had messed up the repair on misfiring cylinder... new coil fixed the problem for a month. After buying the 18 I find tons of dod stories about this problem dating back many years, even happening to new vehicles. A class action lawsuit in progress. I've got some 2500 points racked up but I'll never give them my money again. I'd but a Ford or Ram next but truck prices are ridiculous. My solution for now is a dod delete via the OBD port. It stays 8cyl all the time and lifters never collapse. Mileage has not been affected significantly at all. I'm getting 18.3/21 running the a/c, even better rest of the year. DOD is a stupid gimmick with no appreciable returns.
If you're going to do something dangerous like standing on a breaker bar, please try and minimize the danger and use the safety tote. It's not just for timing chain tensioners.
Just another reason I love my Gen3 5.3. It probably doesn't get quite as good fuel economy as the newer AFM/VVT engines, but I don't have to worry about those systems failing.
My Sierra 4x4 had a similar issue, roller compressed. Did a DOD delete and replaced pushrods and rockers since I was already inside. Did all the work myself and really wished I had a engine lift to properly remove and install the pick up tube. Was a nightmare getting access to it while inside the engine. And with the 4x4, I had even less space to work with, oil pan was unable to be removed completely. And caused me some oil leaks that will need to fix with a new oil pan gasket and maybe a simple resurface.
Every time I see engines that are super dirty inside, it makes me feel better about being neurotic about changing the oil on my car every 5k. I'm kinda disappointed you didn't film an 'after' shot of the heads after they've been through the parts washer, though; was really curious as to how they'd clean up with all that rust. Serious question, though: with regard to the GM AFM system, do you think the issues stem from people simply not changing the oil on a regular basis with good stuff, or do you think there's some inherent design flaw that fucks shit up, regardless of how religious maintenance was? IMHO, any engine with cylinder deactivation, be it a GM Gen IV 5.3 or a Honda J35, should have consistent oil changes done using name brand full synthetic, or name brand synthetic blend at the very least (I'm guessing that's part of why GM created the Dexos branding). I know the engineering legwork on those engines was done when GM wasn't making as much money as they had before, and from what I've seen, any time a given company isn't doing well, corners get cut during the engineering process, and that eventually comes back to bite them in the form of long running issues or outright recalls.
Design flaw. I work for GM I’ve replaced lifters on vehicles with 400 miles, 5000 miles, you name it. I’ve also replaced lifters with lifters bad out the box. Idk where GM is sourcing these lifters but they are great job security for me lol
Design Flaw mostly. I've seen lifters fail before 5000 miles and usually the low mileage failure ones are because of the locking pin spring inside the lifter breaking and the lifter comes out in two pieces. A tiny ink pen style spring keeps the lifters in the 'Normal' locked mode (oil pressure push the pins back for AFM mode) and it doesn't take much to make that spring or pins stick. The lifters that are stuck down like in this video I've always seen on higher mileage engines that are usually gross inside and might be a failure related to maintenance more than anything. I'm not exactly sure what keeps them stuck down as Ive never gotten one of those apart, my best guess is debris gets in there and jams the lifter. Either way it's a terrible mess and it's only been made worse on 2019+ engines with 'DFM' where all 8 cylinders now have these lifters and they switch on and off almost constantly in 'rotating firing orders'. The new DFM engines I've noticed have had WAY more lifter failures so far than the AFM engines and they've only been out for a couple years.
Collapsed lifter due to weak springs on lifter, turn that off, and any brand with AFM/DOD is not impervious to it. Get those engines ready for a non DOD Lifter overhaul.
Fantastic content as usual. I still remember the first video that showed up in my feed. I almost didn't passed it up as I didn't think someone could be that clean after taking apart an engine and it had to be click bait. Now I am hooked and look forward to all the videos, rehoming, rehabs, rebuilds, and ridiculous amounts of spicy breath. As far as recommendations for future videos, keep going the direction you are going. I don't think it really matters what engine you are tearing down, I would watch even if it was 3.5 hp Briggs & Stratton lawn mower engines, or even 3.x L Dodge, and Chrysler V6's. The amount of knowledge you share from just your experiences is priceless, and you remind me of someone but I cant quite figure out who yet, lol Just kidding.
I have that same engine in my Tahoe. I did a DoD delete, replaced the oil pump, changed the cam with a little lope to it and it runs great. I have about 260k on it.
I liked the checking to see if all the pistons come up to the top. Maybe a new mini segment interlude with game show music or a "pick the piston(s)" guessing game. And as always, I love your channel and I'll catch ya on the next one. 🤙
I'd like to see you take two bad engines and take parts from both to make one working engine while spending the bare minimal amount of money (like head gaskets or other non-reusable parts). May not run very well or produce a lot of power, but I'd call an engine that starts and runs continuously a success. Would be a real educational experience for all of us.
My LMG has 125k on her now, and the stock lifters are still alive! I know - a friggin miracle, lol. I attribute that to my use of synthetic oils since 2,500 miles, plus a Range AFM disabler I plugged in at 75k miles. Lifters either would have already failed, or would be failing right now had I not!
Yes. Mine crumbled upon removal; no way was it enabling proper and air-free oil flow. Poor material choice. Also can't understand why the tube diameter is so enormous.
Great video as always. Nice to see you got some useable parts to sell. Missed Ol’ Blue and the Safety Tote on this episode. Thanks for the videos and laughs.
Oh man i really love your videos! Always a Pleasure to watch. I would love to see you disassemble an Porsche Engine, maybe even a turbo one. Keep up you’re good work and greets from Bavaria, Germany ✌🏻
Ive probably commented about it before but nice heated hoodie, i have one of the original ones in grey, and i just got a new one in green, new one heats up super fast
I got a '99 Z-71 pickup with a new 5.7 that was locked up. The story was that the guy installed the new engine, it wouldn't start, he got pissed off, and left it to rot. It wouldn't start because he installed the distributor 180 off, it sucks that he didn't catch that. I'm guessing that the fuel washed the oil off the cylinders from trying to start it and after many years of sitting the cylinders rusted and locked it up. I forced it free which took a fair bit of effort, but as soon as I got it freed enough that it would crank over it fired up and ran perfectly. I was shocked that there was no noise or oil smoke.
I have a 2004 gen 3 5.3 in my firebird and I keep hearing about the flat top Pistons and how they can make higher compression. I wish I was confident enough to build an engine and experience glorious 400hp
@@lm7bird680 Thanks to the design of the lifter trays and some conveniently placed holes (that GM practically admitted were for this purpose) you can slide in something like a wooden dowel and when you rotate the engine the lifters will get held up pretty risk-ily but it allows you to put the dowel or stick in and then the lifters sit on the dowel. Then you can take out the cam without worrying about the lifters going into the oil pan, in theory the lifter trays will hold em up alone but ehhhh.
The LS oil pickup is the bane of my existence, I've done three of those O-rings and only one of them went well. Yes, the bad ones were my fault but still, it sucks.
On stuck V engines I usually see someone put whatever fluid in the cylinders to free the rings not realizing its only going to pool at the bottom. Turning the engine so each bank is vertical for a few days with however much fluid is what I've done since un-freezing my first "will it have a sticker next week" car three decades ago. Just my one and a half cents.
My Pontiac G8 6.0 had one of the standard lifters fail. Metal flaking off the roller wheel and chewed up the bearings. Doesn't seem too common the failure that I had.
Can you find and do a Toyota 1HD? These 4.2 straight 6 engines are known for extreme heavy hauling and high milage. The Landcruiser 100 is my most favorite 4x4 and used (in Holland) by the more fortunate builders and market salesmen. Hauling up to 9 tons or 20.000 lbs (and above) day by day. Big fan of your channel
Collapsed lifter is very common failure on these engines. Used to see that around the 120-150k mile mark back in my dealership days and it's very common on the cores get through the shop. If caught early, the repair is to replace the lifters (have to remove the heads and ect). Given the labor to do all that, many opt for replacement of the long block because everything else still has 150-200k miles of wear and it's money well spent to get a rebuilt engine than to spend 4 grand in labor to simply replace a lifter. That's the annoying thing on the LS engine family is that you have to remove the heads to replace lifters, unlike the small block ford and chevy engines.
*_That engine ran hot few times (black walls of carbon on everything implying whole motor was hear soaked) and didn't have recommended oil changes which lead to the dropped lifter. The postive displacement oil pump did its job working with what it had and that water pump was probably replaced after it ran hot hence the coolant looked fresh and pump was immaculate..._*
I enjoy your vids as they are very informative and you have a great attitude. I am surpized that you don't appear to have a ridge reamer, as you are breaking down semi-worn out engines? They are cheap and useful. Keep up the vids. please.
I have learned from my many years of experience that if you use diesel fuel to pour inside the cylinders that eventually if the locked up issue is rust from being outside it will break loose.
Very nice presentation! Great filming. Easy to watch, in fact I kinda got sucked in, but I loved it. Wish I had a shop to do this too. Do you have an assistant to reposition the camera? or do you have to stop and take off the gloves every time?
I just did a dod delete on my 2016 5.3 I went with a stage 3 cam and new lifters. Had it retuned by a professional and I am getting better mileage than I have ever have and an extra 50 horse power. The truck only had 80,000 miles on it and it did ding up the cam so it had to be replaced.
Absolutely true about maintaining AFM LS engines. Change the oil at least every 6000 miles and use a good quality synthetic motor oil and they seldom have issues. BTW- there is a small screen in the oil passage feeding the LOM module, if it becomes restricted or plugged with debris it will cause AFM lifter failure. The screen is accessable under the oil pressure sender. Thanks, great video as always!
I had my own 'I Do Cars' exploratory moment when I thought I landed a deal on a JD 214 tractor I was going to use to level a spot for a shop pad. Turns out the p.o. ran 'er into the ground without oil (big surprise, eh?) til the piston friction welded itself into the cylinder, turning a pretty average ring job into a complete rebuild. Then I get a bit further and see all the carnage in the bottom end. 🤦♂ Yeah, that just went from $200 in parts to a 'can this be saved??' $1000 machining project. Welp, not the end of a recent purchase I wanted to be on, but now I have the experience of seeing someone else's misdeeds like this fine fellow does!
Now, I'm imagining all the props you have off-camera to make it just sound like you've throwing the part you just praised the condition of in the dumpster.
Your learning! Water Pumps are so cheap in the replacement market that even if it was 'like new' it would not be profitable to resell it. Now if he just happened to need a water pump for his personal car it might be worth using just to save a trip to the store, but not to deal with the hassle of selling it.
#265👍👏🎉🤔🤣💖Great show Eric! You always brighten my Saturday!! Glad this was good for business too. There is something enjoyable about these simple engines? Not so overly complicated! I had a 69 442 Olds I would have liked to have kept but Dad let broken tire chains and rust rot ruin a really nice car. Traded it in 1980 for a 280zx! Such a great ride too!! Later...
That’s how I got my 5.3. Someone didn’t take it apart. When I did found same exact thing only the cam had a lobe that was smoked from the stuck lifter. Fun fact, those 4x timing gears have asymmetric teeth. Idk why tho
I LOVE that you DONT have any stupid music playing. No fans, or highway noise. I can hear you talk all the time. Keep up the great work.
Facts
Excellent audio/ wireless mic placement & level.
Love the "Is it really locked up" check 😁
I replaced the hydraulic lifters in my 5.7 litre Chevrolet LS1 V8 engine about 4 years ago & it's still going good, they were just noisy once the engine warmed up & I checked the oil pressure which passed GMs specifications so it wasn't caused by an oil pressure issue.
It didn't have an oil change for 17,000 kilometres (10,500 miles approx) once in its life before I bought the car (Holden VY SS Commodore sedan) & the LS1 lifters tended to be known for becoming noisy for some reason.
So I replaced them with aftermarket LS7 items as well as a brand new Rollmaster timing chain & Melling timing chain damper & adaptor bracket while the timing cover was removed because the timing cover gasket was leaking.
I have had no problems with it ever since & yes, there's people over here in Australia who would've just bolted another engine in instead as well !
RUclips just served this video up to me, and I have to admit you have really blown my mind. Way back in my younger days my brother and I rebuilt several late 70's / early 80's Chevy 350's. When you started this tear down I was expecting that once you got to the insides it would all look familiar, but wow, I was so wrong. The only things I recognized were the pistons, connecting rods, crankshaft, camshaft and push rods, nothing else looked familiar. It's been 40+ years since I did any serious mechanic work, I had no idea that engines had changed so much. The insides of a bow-tie 350 were so simple compared to this engine. All I can say is "Wow, just wow." Great video, by the way.
For those who are interested a good trick to remove a stuck and broken off dipstick tube from an LS engine block(better then pushing it into the pan and leaving it there) is to find a M6 x 1mm bolt, 3 to 4 inches long, and thread into the dipstick(the bolt will make the threads it needs) and knock the piece of dipstick back and forth until it comes out.
😊😊😊😊
I'll remember that for the next one... Would have been great 3 months ago....🤣
Do it right or not at all
Always lube my stick with silicone grease never had a problem, lube youre sticks guys your pullout will be much easier
@@Airman.. lol
You'd be surprised at all the things you can find in an oil pan. I've found bolts, a 10 mm wrench, an 8 mm swivel socket, 1/2 of a crank sensor, and a whole bunch of broken engine parts. I may be forgetting some things too.
Had a guy do the same with a 6.2 LT platform. Now he’s been waiting 6ish months for a new engine because the new 6.2 L86’s are made of unobtanium.
weird. I just pulled a LH6 5.3 l at the wrecking yard today and brought it in the shop not even half an hour ago. So far looks like a winner! all I see is a broken timing chain guide. Pulling the heads, lifters and cam next! I do cars too😉
Your a winner! 👍
Hone the cylinders, new rings on the pistons, lifters and you are good to go!
Wow.....7.5 hours to teardown an engine...You rock 🎸 🎸 🎸
I still hope for a Northstar engine. Another great video.
Many of these engines end up being scrapped simply because of bad head bolt threads. I'm slowly working on mine and it's mint looking after 130k but sadly head bolt threads have crapped out and need to be redone.
Please don’t think I’m being negative or trying kill your dreams. The Cadillac Northstar is not an engine I would give to my worst enemy. They have so many problems with the majority being head gasket leaking from the minute it left the dealership. Do yourself a favor run from this engine that poses as a northstar.
@@dreece2000 100 percent agree. I’m just interested in seeing the fail points of this infamous engine in a tear down video. I’m an LS guy myself.
@@dreece2000 The many years after the head bolt fix, proved Northstars were very reliable, and powerful motors. People just only remember the bad things about something lately,
@@bricktonyb I respectfully disagree
As far as that cross, I have found 2 different setups depending on the engine. Someone will always counter but on untouched stuff I have always found this true. If the engine has 799 heads on it, it has those pock marked piston with the cross cast in. Find the same engine but with 243 heads on it, it has the smooth pistons without the crosses. I assume its just assembly plant parts supply things.
Another good tear down video. I do like the slightly longer videos. With all the different brands and accessories', I have learned so much watchig them every week. Keep up
the good work. Wishing you and the family congratulations on the new family member.
I see this about once a month at work. DOD failure is not an option, but only a matter of when. Best thing to do is a DOD Delete kit if you are buying one. By the looks of this one. Oil Changes went a few thousand over due, and cheap off brand oil was used a lot. Just keep this one thing in mind when it comes to engine oil. Good isn't cheap, and cheap isn't good. Plus an oil treatment like Lucas or BG's MOA is worth the extra bucks. I use Lucas in my 2003 Ranger with over 300,000 on the clock, and my 2003 Forester with 200,000 on it. Both are original engines and still gets me where I need to go. And the insides look nice and clean when I replaced the valve cover gaskets on the Ranger, and Head Gaskets on the Subaru (also handy tip. On the EJ 2.5. Use the turbo WRX gaskets and Dexcool, and never worry about them again).
Valvoline VR1 recently saved my bottom end from a random oil pump failure. Well worth the extra few bucks.
I second the endorsement of Lucas oil treatment and premium oil. Good stuff!
What Lucas Oil product do you use? Their website is filled with products.
My 03 5.3 has 548,629 as of right this minute. Only o rings on pick up tube and intake gasket is as deep in as I've been on it. I'm second owner and I know the other guy. I bought it off him at around 180,000. I just use 10/30 control in winter and 10/40 in summer. Sorta on 4000 mile changes. Every other change I'll put trans fluid in a couple days before to clean it out. I think another important thing that I do religiously is let her warm up to temp in the morning before hitting the road.
Edit: it does smoke on start up now and started that at about 500,000. Still runs hard and don't give it any slack.
I honestly don't see any value in adding Lucas in a engine, especially when the bearing tolerances are crucial to the lifespan of the engine. On a cold start in winter has it occurred to ya that the viscosity is changed causing the oil to increase premature wear due to the amount of oil at the cam,mains,and rod journals is less than what it should be? Just run regular 5W30 synthetic blend and your engine will be right as rain. Now a REAL oil additive that does not alter the viscosity number is MOA from BG, I have never seen a engine failure from the use of this product, I stand on that with the one leg i have left too!!!
My truck had one owner before I bought it (2011 Silverado 5.3) and has a good history on oil changes. I change oil every 4-5k, when it hits the 20% change. I’m at 176k and it’s running well. I still hate the DOD but it is what it is.
The ones with the cross on the top have a rougher finish, and the ones without the cross are smooth as glass.
I wonder if the cross adds strength? ....or heat dissipation? .......or compression.....and all of that having to do with it's location relative to the engine compartment of that particular model. Just a guess.
I dunno if it’s still broke, but would love to see more before and after shots in the parts washer.
It’s fixed, and I’ll incorporate some of that into future teardowns
@@I_Do_Cars fries are done
@@picax8398 you remember ❤️
@@I_Do_Cars nice! There’s still a part of me that’s addicted to power washing videos…..what if you put a GoPro in the parts washer???
@@I_Do_Cars of course I do! Who doesn't like caustic fries?
Wow. I typically have my car engines changed every 10k miles since there is probably some wear at that point. Can't be too careful.
i like the sound of him tapping out the pistons with the hammer handle sped up. good asmr sound.
Great presentation, As a retired mechanic seeing many other vids makes me shudder. A little tip I used to do in same situation albeit trying to save everything is once you have movement get the heads off before forcing and use a bottle brush hone to clean the cylinders of rust. Can save damage to piston lands.
I think you might be the best car comedian out there. I loved the bent pushrod pull.
What a great channel. Love watching the teardowns and I enjoy the rescue/resto videos as well. Could you maybe show a before & after cleaning of the parts you intend to keep? I would be especially interested to see how the heads & blocks turn out after you run them through the parts washer since a lot of the cores you get were left out in the elements.
All the best to you and your family and thanks for the quality content!
Hoping you just found the channel because if so there’s a lot of videos to catch up on!!
Having torn down lots of engines (usually in far worse condition than this one) I really love these videos, mostly because it's someone else getting his hands dirty lol!! But, very thorough job, and nicely diagnosed. Clearly this motor had had some work done (broken dipstick, head bolts not all torqued down, missing sump bolts), but you got some good saleable bits out of it, so a win!
Love your content, though I recognize that this is a huge amount of work -- likely 3 hours of editing on top of the teardown. I appreciate that you do it; and I have to say, this is really clever marketing. Thousands of people see your product, see how you handle it, and see what your values are. Really smart, and well done.
I have an 07 Avalanche and had this problem. Actually it's not an easy call to replace a bad lifter as there are a number of parts that should be replaced along with the lifters if you want an engine you can count on. When the AFM lifters go they usually have $1600 in upgrade parts to comply with the service notices and even then it seems the valve problems cause oil to get sucked past rings and they stick and have high oil consumption. I ended up buying a factory remain for about $4200 and swapping it out. I had good results after about 50000 miles on the remain everything has been great. One thing I found surprising was that GM really wanted the core back, REALLY! The core charge was $2000 and that makes me wonder what sort of knuckle head left this engine out in the rain?
"this beautiful, mint-condition water pump" - ooh, he's gonna throw it. Throw it! "I would definitely use that." CLANG! :D
Love the videos, I know it would be hard to find but I think it would be great if you got a Ford 300 or an amc 242 i6
especially the ford 300, that would be really interesting to take a look into
Problem with the AMC I6 is finding one that's failed to take apart.
That and taking it apart would be about a five minute video.
Yeah both are very simple and robust engines but I think if one did blow it would end up being spectacular
The moment I saw the "textbook failure" I wondered if it was a DoD/AFM failure. Shame this engine was condemned for just that. Delete kit and it would've been on the road again.
I do an L96 swap a couple times a year, and yeah that dipstick is a pain. I had one break like that, and now I just pull the pan and knock it out from the underside.
Congrats on 150K subscribers Eric! Seems like yesterday that we were celebrating the 100K mark
Great tear down. That block was super dirty inside. No wonder it developed an oiling problem, most with the dod lifter failure is due to shoddy service intervals. My first vid, I think I’ll become a regular. As an engine builder, keeps my eyes sharp.
On something like that - could the original mechanics have pulled the pan, seen no forbidden glitter, and then gone straight to the valve covers to discover a stuck lifter? Then the engine could have been repaired? I'm just wondering. I had a lifter get stuck and collapse in my first car, a '69 Buick Skylark with the 350 engine. We got the collapsed lifter out and replaced it and the pushrod, and it kept going...
The vaunted LS . I started buying them after realizing they'll be in high demand for the next century or 2. Alum blocks , even more so . Super Compact[fit in anything] , Inexpensive High HP potential. All 4.8 -5.3 iron bloks easily bore to 3.90 LS1 5.7 spec.[$400 in Austin Tx] . If you don't have one , get it kwik , keep it dry. Lithium spray is a good long term preservative.
Your sense of humor makes watching these videos so much more enjoyable. Thank you for sharing this with us.
I picked up a 2010 Silverado 5.3 DOD pickup with 110K on the clock. The previous owner had the GM recall where they replaced cam/lifters/oil pump/DOD system. Put another 10K on it without any issues - lifters are quiet and oil pressure is normal. The previous owner faithfully used the Oil Life Indicator as indicator to change the oil plus used name brand oil + decent filters. I have changed the oil several times and always use Mobile 1 high mileage synthetic. It took a few changes to get the oil to stay light-colored and not turn dark. I believe the oil life system isn't the best indicator of when to change the oil especially in New England where every winter a lot of vehicles will be in 'severe service' operation due to excessive idling/not warming up. Hoping it will keep running strong and the problems will be limited to the GM electrical system that we all are used to fixing!
I'm really learning a lot about the 5.3 watching you tearing them apart thank you
Thank you for the video.
I think the head gasket blown is the cleaning of the piston and a water pump was an attempt to repair the over heating.
The lifters only fail in the collapsed position. If you disable AFM, the lifters do will longer collapse, which prevents them from failing. GM engines are still superior.
About a month and a half ago I bought a 2008 Silverado with 148k with one of these engines. 2 weeks after owning it cyl 1 dod lifter collapsed. The same exact location as on this engine. It took me and a buddy a weekend to get it fixed as we’ve never taken apart one of these engines and weren’t prepared for this to happen at All. After getting it fixed with just a few new lifters, everything is running smoother than when I purchased the truck. I’ve since bought a range technology module that doesn’t allow it to go into 4 cyl mode and I just finished up a nice road trip with 0 hiccups whatsoever so I suppose I was one of the lucky ones where only a few lifters took care of the problem. The cam and all other parts that can get wiped out were okay on it, I guess I caught it early enough. The previous owners must have taken decent care as the inside of the engine seemed pretty clean to me also.
The cross on top is from dies during the casting process. I used to work for a security company at GM and seen many of those pistons. I'd bet those pistons have a GMPT-B on the side from GM powertrain casting facility in Bedford INDIANA.
My mom had a '10 Silverado that developed that issue. The shop bill wasn't pretty, but it was less than a new engine.
Time to grab a case of beer and relax to my favorite channel!! Hoping for some total carnage!!
Cracking the headbolts loose is Mechanic ASMR... love it!
I would watch no matter how long I wish that I worked for you, I always loved to tear down and assemble motor and transmission. Even out of the vehicle depending on what it is and where it is at.
"if you start noticing issues, stop driving immediately"
Solid advice. But I was curious. I had a seized lifter in my 2012 GMC Sierra. Knew I would be doing a motor because I also had low oil pressure issues. But as I said, I was curious. So I kept driving it on 7 cylinders with low oil pressure. Pretty soon the seized lifter on 6 managed to wipe out cylinder 8. At that point I stopped driving it, mostly because it wouldn't drive. I didn't know it at the time, but I also had the classic oil consumption problems. Piston skirts, glazed cylinder walls, PCV, etc.
I promise I'm taking much better care of the new motor. I just didn't care about the old one because I bought the truck used. Previous owner didn't keep up with oil changes. It was too late by the time I took ownership.
Those lifters are the Achilles heal of those gm engines
What a great channel I really enjoy watching all tear downs. It is awesome when you get a lot good parts from the engine. It would be nice to see more around the parts washer. Thank you for all the hard work making these video's us.
Enjoyed the video :)
Would love to see anything Honda K24, or GM 3800 series. Plentiful motors, both highly regarded (granted not so much the Series II) but still reliable motors sold in many vehicles.
High likelihood many viewers have owned one, or multiple of these.
Eric did a couple K20's over a year ago.
I guess it’s time for some more Honda carnage 😎
@@I_Do_Cars K24W1 or W9. Those are the DI ones they had in the Accord and CR-V and for some reason they drink oil (or at least the ones I see do).
@@I_Do_Cars j35 with VCM!!!
So mostly im seeing it failed because the oil looks to have never been changed on time, and when it was, they put the cheapest oil they could find in it. Not a good move on these modern engines with the dod afm, vvt, turbochargers etc. oems are suggesting oil change intervals that are way too long with technology thats extremely sensitive to having clean oil that hasnt lost its viscosity. Engines blowing up prematurely is clearly the result.
Holy Cow, I didn’t know you guys were located in Hazelwood, MO. I used to live in Hazelwood as a kid and even went to Hazelwood Central high school for a semester my freshman year. In fact, I lived all over the St.Louis metro including on the IL, side of the river. I still have family there as well. I know live in Kansas, just on the west side of the MO boarder. Thanks for the awesome video
Bought chevys since the 80s. Really enjoyed the gm points when it came time to buy a new one. Always had 2 or 3k knocked off my best negotiated price. 2015 silverado blew up at 70k. Needed 5grand to rebuild so I traded it in for a new 2018. I assumed I had messed up the repair on misfiring cylinder... new coil fixed the problem for a month.
After buying the 18 I find tons of dod stories about this problem dating back many years, even happening to new vehicles. A class action lawsuit in progress. I've got some 2500 points racked up but I'll never give them my money again.
I'd but a Ford or Ram next but truck prices are ridiculous. My solution for now is a dod delete via the OBD port. It stays 8cyl all the time and lifters never collapse. Mileage has not been affected significantly at all. I'm getting 18.3/21 running the a/c, even better rest of the year. DOD is a stupid gimmick with no appreciable returns.
If you're going to do something dangerous like standing on a breaker bar, please try and minimize the danger and use the safety tote. It's not just for timing chain tensioners.
Welcome to a world of OSHA violations😂
Just another reason I love my Gen3 5.3. It probably doesn't get quite as good fuel economy as the newer AFM/VVT engines, but I don't have to worry about those systems failing.
My Sierra 4x4 had a similar issue, roller compressed. Did a DOD delete and replaced pushrods and rockers since I was already inside. Did all the work myself and really wished I had a engine lift to properly remove and install the pick up tube. Was a nightmare getting access to it while inside the engine. And with the 4x4, I had even less space to work with, oil pan was unable to be removed completely. And caused me some oil leaks that will need to fix with a new oil pan gasket and maybe a simple resurface.
How about tearing down a Mazda Sky-Active 2.5? I haven't been able to find many glaring issues with them! (unlike some other brands)
Every time I see engines that are super dirty inside, it makes me feel better about being neurotic about changing the oil on my car every 5k. I'm kinda disappointed you didn't film an 'after' shot of the heads after they've been through the parts washer, though; was really curious as to how they'd clean up with all that rust.
Serious question, though: with regard to the GM AFM system, do you think the issues stem from people simply not changing the oil on a regular basis with good stuff, or do you think there's some inherent design flaw that fucks shit up, regardless of how religious maintenance was? IMHO, any engine with cylinder deactivation, be it a GM Gen IV 5.3 or a Honda J35, should have consistent oil changes done using name brand full synthetic, or name brand synthetic blend at the very least (I'm guessing that's part of why GM created the Dexos branding). I know the engineering legwork on those engines was done when GM wasn't making as much money as they had before, and from what I've seen, any time a given company isn't doing well, corners get cut during the engineering process, and that eventually comes back to bite them in the form of long running issues or outright recalls.
Design flaw. I work for GM I’ve replaced lifters on vehicles with 400 miles, 5000 miles, you name it. I’ve also replaced lifters with lifters bad out the box. Idk where GM is sourcing these lifters but they are great job security for me lol
Design Flaw mostly. I've seen lifters fail before 5000 miles and usually the low mileage failure ones are because of the locking pin spring inside the lifter breaking and the lifter comes out in two pieces. A tiny ink pen style spring keeps the lifters in the 'Normal' locked mode (oil pressure push the pins back for AFM mode) and it doesn't take much to make that spring or pins stick.
The lifters that are stuck down like in this video I've always seen on higher mileage engines that are usually gross inside and might be a failure related to maintenance more than anything. I'm not exactly sure what keeps them stuck down as Ive never gotten one of those apart, my best guess is debris gets in there and jams the lifter.
Either way it's a terrible mess and it's only been made worse on 2019+ engines with 'DFM' where all 8 cylinders now have these lifters and they switch on and off almost constantly in 'rotating firing orders'. The new DFM engines I've noticed have had WAY more lifter failures so far than the AFM engines and they've only been out for a couple years.
Collapsed lifter due to weak springs on lifter, turn that off, and any brand with AFM/DOD is not impervious to it.
Get those engines ready for a non DOD Lifter overhaul.
Fantastic content as usual. I still remember the first video that showed up in my feed. I almost didn't passed it up as I didn't think someone could be that clean after taking apart an engine and it had to be click bait. Now I am hooked and look forward to all the videos, rehoming, rehabs, rebuilds, and ridiculous amounts of spicy breath. As far as recommendations for future videos, keep going the direction you are going. I don't think it really matters what engine you are tearing down, I would watch even if it was 3.5 hp Briggs & Stratton lawn mower engines, or even 3.x L Dodge, and Chrysler V6's. The amount of knowledge you share from just your experiences is priceless, and you remind me of someone but I cant quite figure out who yet, lol Just kidding.
I have that same engine in my Tahoe. I did a DoD delete, replaced the oil pump, changed the cam with a little lope to it and it runs great. I have about 260k on it.
awesome work bro, love everything you do..... congrats on 150k subs!
Should have way more subs than that!
A VW TSI 4 banger would be a cool teardown. Three different Gens put in a ton of cars
@@killdizzle maybe he means a 1.4 litre tsi. Nightmare engines
I liked the checking to see if all the pistons come up to the top. Maybe a new mini segment interlude with game show music or a "pick the piston(s)" guessing game. And as always, I love your channel and I'll catch ya on the next one. 🤙
Seems like it is true of most engines - change the oil and filter consistently sooner than later and it will keep running for a long time.
It's never a "bad idea" if it works....Love the way you test push rods LOL!
I'd like to see you take two bad engines and take parts from both to make one working engine while spending the bare minimal amount of money (like head gaskets or other non-reusable parts). May not run very well or produce a lot of power, but I'd call an engine that starts and runs continuously a success. Would be a real educational experience for all of us.
yes and show some prices once in a while!
My LMG has 125k on her now, and the stock lifters are still alive! I know - a friggin miracle, lol. I attribute that to my use of synthetic oils since 2,500 miles, plus a Range AFM disabler I plugged in at 75k miles. Lifters either would have already failed, or would be failing right now had I not!
Thank you for spending all your time in making these videos! It is worth it.
I would like to have seen the condition of the pickup tube O ring. I think it’s a major source of low oil pressure and DOD lifter failure.
Yes. Mine crumbled upon removal; no way was enabling proper and air-free flow. Poor material choice.
Yes. Mine crumbled upon removal; no way was it enabling proper and air-free oil flow. Poor material choice. Also can't understand why the tube diameter is so enormous.
Great video as always. Nice to see you got some useable parts to sell. Missed Ol’ Blue and the Safety Tote on this episode. Thanks for the videos and laughs.
The pistons tops don't have a "plus", but rather a Templar cross, because they're from Oak Island
Congrats for 150k subscribers 🎉😁
Oh man i really love your videos! Always a Pleasure to watch. I would love to see you disassemble an Porsche Engine, maybe even a turbo one. Keep up you’re good work and greets from Bavaria, Germany ✌🏻
Ive probably commented about it before but nice heated hoodie, i have one of the original ones in grey, and i just got a new one in green, new one heats up super fast
I got a '99 Z-71 pickup with a new 5.7 that was locked up. The story was that the guy installed the new engine, it wouldn't start, he got pissed off, and left it to rot. It wouldn't start because he installed the distributor 180 off, it sucks that he didn't catch that. I'm guessing that the fuel washed the oil off the cylinders from trying to start it and after many years of sitting the cylinders rusted and locked it up. I forced it free which took a fair bit of effort, but as soon as I got it freed enough that it would crank over it fired up and ran perfectly. I was shocked that there was no noise or oil smoke.
One can only hope for a ford 460, love the videos !
I have a 2004 gen 3 5.3 in my firebird and I keep hearing about the flat top Pistons and how they can make higher compression. I wish I was confident enough to build an engine and experience glorious 400hp
You don't need confidence just do it!
My ex boss let my borrow the same car as yours with a 6 speed manual and someone supercharged it. Very very fun car.
A Gen 3 5.3 should br able to see 400hp without internal work, 400whp with a cam
@@loganamurray64 I thought cams were a head off operation on LS engines since you can't get the lifters without removing the head
@@lm7bird680 Thanks to the design of the lifter trays and some conveniently placed holes (that GM practically admitted were for this purpose) you can slide in something like a wooden dowel and when you rotate the engine the lifters will get held up pretty risk-ily but it allows you to put the dowel or stick in and then the lifters sit on the dowel. Then you can take out the cam without worrying about the lifters going into the oil pan, in theory the lifter trays will hold em up alone but ehhhh.
The LS oil pickup is the bane of my existence, I've done three of those O-rings and only one of them went well. Yes, the bad ones were my fault but still, it sucks.
On stuck V engines I usually see someone put whatever fluid in the cylinders to free the rings not realizing its only going to pool at the bottom. Turning the engine so each bank is vertical for a few days with however much fluid is what I've done since un-freezing my first "will it have a sticker next week" car three decades ago. Just my one and a half cents.
keep up the videos and we all win. love the channel
Just bought a 2011 suburban with 5.3 mechanic highly recommends doing the DOD, displacement on demand delete
My Pontiac G8 6.0 had one of the standard lifters fail. Metal flaking off the roller wheel and chewed up the bearings. Doesn't seem too common the failure that I had.
Your channel name says it all for me. Thanks
Can you find and do a Toyota 1HD? These 4.2 straight 6 engines are known for extreme heavy hauling and high milage. The Landcruiser 100 is my most favorite 4x4 and used (in Holland) by the more fortunate builders and market salesmen. Hauling up to 9 tons or 20.000 lbs (and above) day by day.
Big fan of your channel
Collapsed lifter is very common failure on these engines. Used to see that around the 120-150k mile mark back in my dealership days and it's very common on the cores get through the shop. If caught early, the repair is to replace the lifters (have to remove the heads and ect). Given the labor to do all that, many opt for replacement of the long block because everything else still has 150-200k miles of wear and it's money well spent to get a rebuilt engine than to spend 4 grand in labor to simply replace a lifter. That's the annoying thing on the LS engine family is that you have to remove the heads to replace lifters, unlike the small block ford and chevy engines.
nice content again! And here 's another example what will happen when you do not change the oil often enough
*_That engine ran hot few times (black walls of carbon on everything implying whole motor was hear soaked) and didn't have recommended oil changes which lead to the dropped lifter. The postive displacement oil pump did its job working with what it had and that water pump was probably replaced after it ran hot hence the coolant looked fresh and pump was immaculate..._*
I enjoy your vids as they are very informative and you have a great attitude. I am surpized that you don't appear to have a ridge reamer, as you are breaking down semi-worn out engines? They are cheap and useful.
Keep up the vids. please.
Another Sunday morning watching a teardown, drinking coffee while the wife is still in bed. Just me, the dog and I DO CARS. 👍👍👍👍👍
You are a legend... Thanks for your time and knowledge ... Much appreciated dude ...
Watching and liking your contents from Saudi Arabia 🇸🇦 👍🏻 keep on
You'd think junk yards would invest in some tarps to keep engines dry before they are sold.
I have learned from my many years of experience that if you use diesel fuel to pour inside the cylinders that eventually if the locked up issue is rust from being outside it will break loose.
Very nice presentation! Great filming. Easy to watch, in fact I kinda got sucked in, but I loved it. Wish I had a shop to do this too. Do you have an assistant to reposition the camera? or do you have to stop and take off the gloves every time?
So it is reasonable to conclude that the 7.3 took 7.3 hours?
LOL!!!
Everybody knows that the hours of time to liters of displacement ratio is 1:1
That's the first thing you learn.
I just did a dod delete on my 2016 5.3 I went with a stage 3 cam and new lifters. Had it retuned by a professional and I am getting better mileage than I have ever have and an extra 50 horse power. The truck only had 80,000 miles on it and it did ding up the cam so it had to be replaced.
Absolutely true about maintaining AFM LS engines. Change the oil at least every 6000 miles and use a good quality synthetic motor oil and they seldom have issues. BTW- there is a small screen in the oil passage feeding the LOM module, if it becomes restricted or plugged with debris it will cause AFM lifter failure. The screen is accessable under the oil pressure sender. Thanks, great video as always!
I had my own 'I Do Cars' exploratory moment when I thought I landed a deal on a JD 214 tractor I was going to use to level a spot for a shop pad.
Turns out the p.o. ran 'er into the ground without oil (big surprise, eh?) til the piston friction welded itself into the cylinder, turning a pretty average ring job into a complete rebuild. Then I get a bit further and see all the carnage in the bottom end. 🤦♂ Yeah, that just went from $200 in parts to a 'can this be saved??' $1000 machining project. Welp, not the end of a recent purchase I wanted to be on, but now I have the experience of seeing someone else's misdeeds like this fine fellow does!
Now, I'm imagining all the props you have off-camera to make it just sound like you've throwing the part you just praised the condition of in the dumpster.
Your learning! Water Pumps are so cheap in the replacement market that even if it was 'like new' it would not be profitable to resell it. Now if he just happened to need a water pump for his personal car it might be worth using just to save a trip to the store, but not to deal with the hassle of selling it.
#265👍👏🎉🤔🤣💖Great show Eric! You always brighten my Saturday!! Glad this was good for business too. There is something enjoyable about these simple engines? Not so overly complicated! I had a 69 442 Olds I would have liked to have kept but Dad let broken tire chains and rust rot ruin a really nice car. Traded it in 1980 for a 280zx! Such a great ride too!! Later...
That’s how I got my 5.3. Someone didn’t take it apart. When I did found same exact thing only the cam had a lobe that was smoked from the stuck lifter. Fun fact, those 4x timing gears have asymmetric teeth. Idk why tho
PERFECT candidate for an iron block 5.7