Oh man you are on fire lately! Thanks for all the repair videos Frank your assistance is more than valuable. Just re-lamped my Benq TW-533 after the lamp failed to ignite 10 times in 20 tries and I have never been happier, much due to your tutorial and informative videos. Keep sharing buddy, Merry Christmas from Greece.
Thanks for this video. It was perfect as the theatre where I work has a DLP 5100. I noticed that you didn't touch the lamps or attempt cleaning the integrator with kimwipes and Pancro. Ours is quite dirty but I didn't want to touch them either. Is there a way to do this safely?
You are welcome. There are some safe ways to do it. Using a photography brush(for lens cleaning) and a small keyboard vacuum work well enough. The trick is to not move any of the optics or put any stress on the mirrors . Go slow, use the brush to loosen the dust and then the vacuum to pick it up. You dont have to make it spotless. They are designed to handle some dust but the more you can remove the better (obviously). The lamps were fairly new so they didn't really need any attention.
hello pretty good ! i have one (a PT-D5700) but at start, the coolers fan start and a few seconds later They stop to Works and i have a temp error. the lamp are switch off. can you help me ?
Thank you! I would check all the fans. There are some you can't see as they are sort of buried inside. Checking the Fan status wire for DC voltage over 2v is usually a good indication of a bad fan or bad status reporting circuit of a fan. The status wire is the third wire. With a scope it should show a square wave. If each pulse is really long that means the fan is failing.
Nice video , i got my hands on couple of those beasts ... Expensive to own due to dual 1500 lamp hour bulbs. The pixel is bad sign because they multiply quickly but you definitly slowed it down considerably by a professional cleaning. Those panasonic long throws are made to run for long intervals with those nice quality fans so the dust was cause of it maybe. Keep up the good work.
These are definitely beasts! These get some heavy use in a church and this was their first cleaning so I think they should get at least one or 2 more sets of lamps through them. I may want to talk to you about some of your projectors. I always wanted a dual lamp Panasonic for myself. If you ever run across any models that use the ET-LAD60, let me know. Also, if you ever need the timer ICs rest, let me know.
@@FixitFrank i have a same lamp but its flagging me to replace the lamp. Is there a way to reset the timer IC to extract few more hours before it die completely
Hello! It depends on the model. If its an LCD model, it might be the lcd optics. They do go bad. But if its DLP, it could be a failing lamp or dirty color wheel. I would need a little more info and the model #.
I'd lean towards a dirty color wheel or possibly even a faded color wheel. These are high lumen so there is a LOT of IR and UV pummeling that glass. The coating could wear out. I'd make sure the lamps are good and that they are using Osram or Ushio bare bulbs inside. If they are lutema or some no name bare bulb, it might be that. The color is dependant on a gas mix in the arc tube. That said, the color wheel being dirty or faded is far more likely. I'd try cleaning the wheel carefully with a soft dry cloth or if its real bad, a lightly damp cloth. I would stay away from alcohol or other cleaners. They might mess with the glue holding the segments in place.
Thank you for the guidance. I'm not sure what a color wheel is but I will try to find a diagram. You have given us the bravery to try to clean it because no one in Miami seems to offer this service and the time requirements for shipping it out won't work@@FixitFrank
@@FixitFrank one more question. A company that we found offers the lamps but only has some thing called Phoenix brand bulbs. Are you familiar with those bulbs?
I wouldnt worry about it. Dust is going to get in no matter what. I would just clean it every 6months or a year and it should be fine. A filter might even slow down the airflow faster so it might be more of a problem than it solves.
You're right. I didn't think it mention it at the time. They use some sort of liquid that in a closed loop for cooling the DMD. I actually repurposed an old one for cooling something else. It's funny how much information I take for granted that other people pick up on after the fact. Next time I do one of these, I will go over the cooling loop for sure. I appreciate it!
Oh man you are on fire lately! Thanks for all the repair videos Frank your assistance is more than valuable. Just re-lamped my Benq TW-533 after the lamp failed to ignite 10 times in 20 tries and I have never been happier, much due to your tutorial and informative videos. Keep sharing buddy, Merry Christmas from Greece.
Thanks brother! It always makes me smile when I see your comments. Merry Christmas to you and your family from Pennsylvania :)
Good video. Very instructive and inspirational for electronic enthusiasts. Keep up the good work.
Thanks for this video. It was perfect as the theatre where I work has a DLP 5100. I noticed that you didn't touch the lamps or attempt cleaning the integrator with kimwipes and Pancro. Ours is quite dirty but I didn't want to touch them either. Is there a way to do this safely?
You are welcome. There are some safe ways to do it. Using a photography brush(for lens cleaning) and a small keyboard vacuum work well enough. The trick is to not move any of the optics or put any stress on the mirrors . Go slow, use the brush to loosen the dust and then the vacuum to pick it up. You dont have to make it spotless. They are designed to handle some dust but the more you can remove the better (obviously). The lamps were fairly new so they didn't really need any attention.
hello pretty good ! i have one (a PT-D5700) but at start, the coolers fan start and a few seconds later They stop to Works and i have a temp error. the lamp are switch off. can you help me ?
Thank you! I would check all the fans. There are some you can't see as they are sort of buried inside. Checking the Fan status wire for DC voltage over 2v is usually a good indication of a bad fan or bad status reporting circuit of a fan. The status wire is the third wire. With a scope it should show a square wave. If each pulse is really long that means the fan is failing.
Nice video , i got my hands on couple of those beasts ... Expensive to own due to dual 1500 lamp hour bulbs. The pixel is bad sign because they multiply quickly but you definitly slowed it down considerably by a professional cleaning. Those panasonic long throws are made to run for long intervals with those nice quality fans so the dust was cause of it maybe. Keep up the good work.
These are definitely beasts! These get some heavy use in a church and this was their first cleaning so I think they should get at least one or 2 more sets of lamps through them.
I may want to talk to you about some of your projectors. I always wanted a dual lamp Panasonic for myself. If you ever run across any models that use the ET-LAD60, let me know. Also, if you ever need the timer ICs rest, let me know.
@@FixitFrank i have a same lamp but its flagging me to replace the lamp. Is there a way to reset the timer IC to extract few more hours before it die completely
@@FixitFrank can you please send me your contact
Hi frank just picked up a d5700 of eBay with two working lamps and a lens for it for 30 bucks looking forward to playing with it.
Hi Frank! We have a Panasonic projector and the color has continually faded. Does that sound like a cleaning issue or a lense issue or something else?
Hello! It depends on the model. If its an LCD model, it might be the lcd optics. They do go bad. But if its DLP, it could be a failing lamp or dirty color wheel. I would need a little more info and the model #.
Wow you’re quick! It’s a PT-DZ770
I'd lean towards a dirty color wheel or possibly even a faded color wheel. These are high lumen so there is a LOT of IR and UV pummeling that glass. The coating could wear out. I'd make sure the lamps are good and that they are using Osram or Ushio bare bulbs inside. If they are lutema or some no name bare bulb, it might be that. The color is dependant on a gas mix in the arc tube. That said, the color wheel being dirty or faded is far more likely. I'd try cleaning the wheel carefully with a soft dry cloth or if its real bad, a lightly damp cloth. I would stay away from alcohol or other cleaners. They might mess with the glue holding the segments in place.
Thank you for the guidance. I'm not sure what a color wheel is but I will try to find a diagram. You have given us the bravery to try to clean it because no one in Miami seems to offer this service and the time requirements for shipping it out won't work@@FixitFrank
@@FixitFrank one more question. A company that we found offers the lamps but only has some thing called Phoenix brand bulbs. Are you familiar with those bulbs?
Do you know if this projector can be mounted sideways to shoot portrait?
I'm not an expert on the use but I do know that these are used that way but they usually need a different lamp assembly made for portrait use.
Do you recommend putting a filter on the radiator?
I wouldnt worry about it. Dust is going to get in no matter what. I would just clean it every 6months or a year and it should be fine. A filter might even slow down the airflow faster so it might be more of a problem than it solves.
@@FixitFrank thanks I’ll take your word I have a pt Rq13 I just don’t understand why would Panasonic didn’t made a door to clean the radiator?
hey you didn’t mention that the DMD chip was water cold in this projector I still think that’s pretty cool that it is water cold
Great video
You're right. I didn't think it mention it at the time. They use some sort of liquid that in a closed loop for cooling the DMD. I actually repurposed an old one for cooling something else. It's funny how much information I take for granted that other people pick up on after the fact. Next time I do one of these, I will go over the cooling loop for sure. I appreciate it!
I actually have a question
well done
Nice. Thanks!
No problem!