32RH (904) Reassembly Part 8 - Valve Body Install
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- Опубликовано: 16 ноя 2024
- Bolting the valve body to the transmission case. Torquing these to 105 inch-lbs is vital.
I had an issue and needed to drop the valve body again and forgot to torque (actually I forgot to even tighten) the bolts, and the result was that I had 100% slippage in 3rd gear and a nasty shudder in reverse. Torquing these bolts solved that issue 100%. It's a pretty important step.
This playlist was really really thorough and helpful when I rebuilt the 32RH in my 99 TJ. I breezed right through the process. Just to share back to the community, I'll share this tip: When you reconnect that wire harness from the valve body, you can push the retainer clip into the plug and then plug it in so you don't have to worry about dropping the clip. Thanks again for a great video series!!
@@1bradmc you can get the thing plugged in with the clip “pre-loaded?” I’m doing another rebuild right now, I’ll try it!
Also I’m editing some of the steps I missed, like replacing the piston seals, etc.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video for all of us shade tree Jeep guys man it was super helpful
That’s great to hear! If even one person saves $2k or more by doing this job themselves then it was worth it.
Porfavor en espanol
@@juanitaiuitcox8916 are you asking me to translate it to Spanish?
Hello, thank you very much for your efforts with the video series. It is all very well explained and has helped me a lot to overhaul my own gearbox. Thank you !
That’s fantastic, I love hearing that people used my videos to overhaul their transmission & save themselves a boatload of money!!
Helpful videos! Thank you! I’m at the point of installing the rotating assemblies. Did you finish the pump install? Did the trans work as expected?
Yes, the pump install went great, I had done that job several times already and I guess I forgot to film it. 3 things you need to be aware of. First, make sure the kickdown band is tight so it holds that drum in place. You’ll do the band adjustment after the pump is in. Second is that you’re threading into an aluminum block, so don’t overtighten. The ASG manual has the right torque value but it’s shown in ft-lbs but should be inch-lbs. it’s something like 175 in-lbs, so not very much at all. 3rd, don’t use the bolts to draw the pump into place. It should take a few knocks from a deadblow. Use some threaded rod to help align the pump holes to the case.
Trans ran hotter than it used to, but I was already planning to put in a cooler after this. I wanted to know the before & after rebuild temps before I added the cooler.
This is great! I’ll be sure to take those into account. I have threaded rod from the redneck slide hammer I made. Thanks for the reply. I’ll order a cooler as well, I never trusted the bottom of the radiator.
Did you split the pump when you tapped and installed the plug?
@@gregashcom5753 lol, not sure how you knew I did that, but no. I probably should have, and for all I know those shavings were why the kickdown band was shredded.
@@gregashcom5753 I kept my lower radiator in the flow, went to the aux cooler after the radiator output.
How the hell did you get the parking rod to go in like that. I’ve been spending the last hour and a half. Trying to get it in. Please help please please please please please
with the trans out of the jeep it's a little easier. There's a spring loaded "slicer" thing that needs to open up to allow the head of the rod through. Then you MAY find that you need to turn the output shaft a little to go through the pawl. It's one of those things that is either easy or you fight with it forever.
@@bigjuicygarage4754 I replaced the TCC solenoid and was able to get everything back together once I moved the wheels and it popped right in.
The code came back on too with a circuit code too
P0740 and P0743
I bought another solenoid and hoping it was just the wiring. With the two pin female side, is do you know how to check to correct polarity?
I also overfilled the fluid a bit so I’ve got to drain it anyways and go again at it.
Drives totally fine with the check engine on.
For some reason my Dodge Van b2500 has this transmission in it. Total mystery as it seems it’s almost an exclusive jeep transmission.
@@DustyMedler Glad you got the park lever in without too much of a fight. For the fluid, overfilled is better than undefiled for sure. I'll puke out the vent to get to the level it wants to be at.
For the solenoid, it actually doesn't matter which way you plug it in, all it does is complete the circuit. The PCM just grounds the circuit when it's time to apply the TCC. If you still have the code, try flipping the plug over. You may have a short in the wiring that's causing the 12V side to ground out. That's exactly what I had happen, only mine was on the wires inside the trans.
I also had issues in my wiring harness. That part that goes up over the trans case can get hot & brittle over time. While the trans was out would've been a great time to de-loom & check everything. Otherwise you can unplug it all and pull it up into the engine bay without too much trouble.
@@bigjuicygarage4754 I ordered another one just in case. I have taken out some of the fluid to balance out the correct levels and now I am only getting the 740 code. I switch the plug over tomorrow and see but I have a feeling that maybe when I was fighting the parking rod I may have damaged a wire inside of the transmission.
I gotta say, the wiring within the trans case is a very poor design. I was blown away when I put it in thinking, these wires are just... in here?
Truly, thank you for this whole video series. I am sure I will be running into some issues with this in the future and will have to do some work on this transmission. Very grateful!
@@DustyMedler I thought the same thing on The wiring. Mine appeared to have rubbed bare on the sun shell. Next time I have one open I’m going to try and route it between the VB & pan
Where did you get the replacement parts from?
The rebuild kit was from Oregon Performande Transmission, but I used some “lesser” kits off eBay that had Raybestos frictions and had zero problems. Beware that not all kits have replacement bushings, if you need to replace those.
This is the actual kit I used.
www.oregonperformancetransmission.com/product/OPT-A904-RB.html
@@bigjuicygarage4754 Thank you