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HORI REAL ARCADE PRO // LEGENDARY ARCADE STICKS
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- Опубликовано: 23 дек 2019
- Let’s take a look at the Hori Real Arcade Pro series from the PS2, PS3, and Xbox 360 generations. These all share the same legendary body style and excellent build quality from Hori. Perhaps the best feature is that you have the ability to mix and match parts between nearly all models. You simply can't go wrong with an old school Hori Real Arcade Pro.
Arcade Shock and Jasen’s Customs have recently started selling metal control panel replacements for these HRAP bodies. These not only look awesome but you can mount nearly any joystick lever you want. They even offer hitbox options.
Arcade Shock:
arcadeshock.co...
Jasen’s Customs:
jasenscustoms....
/ scanlinecity
/ scanlinecity
#fightstick #fightstickmod #retrogaming #retromod #arcadestickmod
You guys make THE best arcade stick content anywhere on the internet. Keep up the fantastic work!
The videos are legendary!!!
@@c2ironfist Absolutely you know exactly what your buying watching these showcases super helpful!
i bought 2 hrap1's from play asia when they were first released , im still rocking both of them now.
They're very durable joysticks. I think they have the most reliable, most OS-friendly PCBs, too. None of that incompatibility crap the earliest Mad Catz TE/Brawl joysticks had. My oldest HRAP/PS2's still work with MAME and every emulator I use on PC. With the USB adaptors I have, both (an Arcana Heart 2 and HRAP 2 SA) are still usable on the PS3 without any special mods.
The only bad thing is the way you have to remove close 30 screws, hex nuts and washers to mod or change parts in the vanilla HRAP 1-3's. The SA models are what these joysticks should have all been -- top loading, top removal. Well, I took care of the top loading issues and modded ALL my non-SA models (my last Tekken 5 10th Anniversary Joystick, the HRAP 3 Amazon-white) to open up from the top!
Heh -- funny thing is that over time you MAY want to hot-glue all your hexnuts into the Mad Catz TE's and HRAP 1-3's. The plastic on the retainer ring for the hex nuts that hold the capsocket/buttonhead screws that fasten the faceplate onto the base gets worn over time with removals. It's very thin plastic and is somewhat brittle. I had problems with this from the start with the Mad Catz TE's but had a hex nut drop on the inside of one of my HRAP 2/3 bases not long ago. I went ahead and hot-glued all my faceplate hex nut holders.
@@AvengerII Hi , yes I've modded mine many times over the years and yes getting the top off is annoying but I wired mine with DB15 connectors and then made up project boxes for all my other consoles so I cant use pretty much with all my stuff if I included controller adapters too. :)
Dude I’ve literally waited for you next video.. You put out amazing content albeit for such a niche fan base your content is high quality and kicks ass! Myself and everyone else in the arcade gaming community really appreciates your content. Merry Xmas!
This takes me back. I have two of the EX-SE sticks stock in boxes from my time in Japan. The Hori Store online allowed for direct purchase so picked up two thinking I'd play with friends in Japan but never happened. One I pulled out occasionally to play the odd fighting game but the other is still in the box. Only now getting back into it, thinking of selling one to fund mods to the other.
What a amazing video! Cant get enough of your Channel! Looking forward to see a namco stick mod video! Merry xmas man! Cheers from Portugal!
Woo HRAP time!
Dude, love these videos, your dedication to fight sticks is tremendous
I have 5 different HRAPs. Three are PS2, one is 360 and then one with a PS360+ pcb. Use them very often and love them very much. Retro fighting for life!
Thank you this detailed overview of this stick series. The original RAP sticks for the ps2 were my dream sticks. Finding about them online and admiring how cool they looked got me into arcade sticks in general.
14 different sticks listed not counting the special game editions, I never even knew they existed until recently. Amazing content thank you.
Great video, this is full of all the info I needed on these sticks. 💯
WHOAH! That intro, that production value! It's insane!
Hearing tek innovations mentioned got me feeling mixed emotions i loved ordering from there sad they aren't around anymore. Great video as always!
Me too. I made this video and after posting decided to go order more stuff and discovered they closed! Noooooo! Let's all convince Arcade Shock to pick up the torch!
@@ScanlineCity Joe Szabo will be taking over where Tek Innovations left off... at least for Jasens Customs Panzer sticks
@@neccros007 I bet they would do it for HRAP old body style as well given they sell the new metal top plates
@@ScanlineCity Check out Joe Szabo... He does all kinds of custom art and printing
Man I want that reflective plate. Is there any other places that sell them?
Hori real arcade pro sticks are the best!
Thank you for this channel, easily one of my top 5!
These videos are all great. Quality over quantity.
Great video! I just picked up a pro 2 SA. In Great shape and a great price. Didn't know anything about it as far as stock parts so thank you for all the information! Great work!
All the HRAP SA models had Sanwa JLFs and OBSF-24 and OSBF-30 pushbuttons.
The generic HRAP 2's and 3's as well as most of the licensed HRAP's (character art, special-edition fighting game joysticks) also had JLF's BUT they used generic Hori pushbuttons which were awful. People generally pitched those Hori buttons and modded the faceplate (trimmed off the buttonhole tabs that held the Hori buttons in place) to fit in Seimitsu or Sanwa buttons.
Back in the day, the Tekken 5 10th Anniversary Joystick (bundled with Tekken 5 for PS2 in North America) was a very popular mod project because it had an HRAP base. It just used an HRAP 1-style faceplate minus a turbo board cutout and the pushbuttons were soldered directly in a LARGE PCB. It was actually fairly easy to mod to install better hardware and the PCB was great practice for desoldering buttons and installing signal lines because it was so big and fairly durable. I must have desoldered 5-7 Tekken 5 PCB's boards and modded that many of the bases. A lot of work to get it up but it wasn't a hard joystick to elevate. That stick was just so available and a lot of people got them for way under $50.
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The OFFICIAL HRAP SE models had an LS-32-01 lever and generally PS-14-G 30mm pushbuttons and PS-14-D 24mm pushbuttons. I don't think ANY of the Hori HRAP SE's had anything but the LS-32-01 lever installed. I think one SE model (possibly the very rare HRAP 2 SE) had special edition PS-14-G pushbuttons that were not your every day store hardware. The HRAP 2 SE resembles the HRAP 2 SA with the all-blue theme but the 30mm pushbuttons on the HRAP 3 SE have black rims if I remember correctly. I'm pretty sure Mark Julio/Markman has EVERY Hori special edition HRAP made including the really rare ones like the HRAP SE and HRAP 2 SE.
Likewise, the HRAP 3 SE (which I have; got it through Akihabarashop.jp) has black-rimmed red pushbuttons for the mains. I got rid of the PS-14-G's in my HRAP 3 SE and replaced them with PS-15s which I liked better; still Seimitsu but at least the plungers weren't flat and somewhat more comfortable although it feels the same whether you use the original microswitches or replace them with Sanwa SW-68 switches.
*****
The last OFFICIAL HRAP SA I'm aware of is the HRAP V3 SA which I have (and don't use because I dislike the HRAP V body style; I should sell the joystick). Within 2 years of that model's release, Hori started supplying all their HRAP lines with the Hayabusa lever and Kuro pushbuttons. I expected them to drop Sanwa as a supplier for the HRAP line after the Fighting Edge joystick became a critical hit.
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One thing I will say as far as the plastic cases go --
I think the original HRAP 1-3 case design is more durable; it scratches like ALL the plastic joystick cases do but I think it would also be harder to break than the HRAP V or Fighting Edge, too. It also has far more interior room for alternate PCB's and dual PCB mods. I don' t know HOW you'd fit in another PCB into an HRAP V, Fighting Edge, and HRAP N case without doing some case modifications to make more. You might have to cut into the cable store compartment to create extra space for a second PCB!!!! The other cases, especially the HRAP V and Fighting Edge, seem to use cheaper plastic -- at least it feels like that! The cable storage doors constantly fall off those cases.
I was really disappointed in the Fighting Edge after I got my hands on one. For such an expensive joystick, it felt cheap to me. Yeah -- $30 more for a joystick made with cheap plastic and a PCB that lacks PS3 backwards compatibility AND Turbo function!!! (I also don't think it has a DP/LS/RS function, either, and by default operates as a left analog joystick?) That made it real easy to return that joystick and get my money back!
[I don't know WHY people aren't honest about some of these things. Are they ashamed to admit they overpaid for things, or am I just too picky?!?]
The HRAP N case doesn't feel as cheap to me as the HRAP V and FE. Bought an HRAP N Hayabusa after I returned the FE and I'm MUCH happier with that joystick. It's worth what I paid -- about $133 brand new, including shipping. It's a keeper!!!! You could get them in some GameStop's for as little as $80 new (pretty sure the GameStops that even had the HRAP N blew through those quick after people found out about the clearance sale) but I NEVER saw a local GameStop stock that joystick.
Frankly, in recent years I've only seen Razer Atrox (which I think is ugly and I hear reports THAT joystick feels cheaply made, too) and HRAP V joysticks in stock at the local computer parts mega-store. GameStop has had the HRAP V's in-stock on and off (and in different colors!!!) but NEVER the HRAP N locally and it's been closer to 7 years since I've seen ANY Mad Catz joysticks carried in-store. Mad Catz seems to have dropped off the face of the Earth after their collapse and reorganization with new management. So much stuff comes and goes, and a lot of it is unfortunately web-exclusive and you'll NEVER see it in a brick-and-mortar store.
Thanks for the new videos and dedication. Posting on Christmas Eve is just as legendary as the content!!
Great work on the mods, they all look great.
Just here to say that I miss your content, man! learning a lot from these videos and I'd love to see more!
I will be back soon! And in a much bigger way
This is so niche, but I’m into it.
Great Video as always ! HRAP 2 SA is my favorite stick, many thanks for this hommage. Keep you good work and continue to remind us the old great arcade stick hardware.
You need to show us your gaming room ! 3 BVM, 4 VLX, 5 HRAP....man your collection must be crazy.
I cant wait to do that video. I promise 2020 it will happen!
@@ScanlineCity many thanks ! 0:23 give an overview but in the dark. I am interested in setup you have with the display in Tate mode at the right. Always a teasing in the intro.
The problem with the HRAP 2 SA is the plastic of the body. That white plastic tends to yellow. It was made with Bromine (or Bromide?) for fire resistance so that it didn't automatically give off toxic fumes! There are very few HRAP 2 SA's being sold now that haven't yellowed.
They didn't formulate a lot of white plastics well. Besides your vintage Kenner Stormtrooper figures, your old Transformers with white plastic, grey consoles (NES, SNES, Sega Saturn), game controller adapters, etc., etc. -- it all turns yellow regardless of how well you store the items. It's NOT all "UV-activated" yellowing. It's in the chemistry of the plastic. You'll never get it back to the original light grey/off-white shade the plastic originally was.
I had my HRAP 2 SA in storage for 4 years OUT of the light and it still yellowed! Eventually, I swapped the original body out with an Arcana Heart 2 joystick (much better plastic formulation) and colored the original HRAP 2 body with Dupli-color vinyl (interior plastic) paint. I find the vinyl paint adheres to the ABS plastic of the joystick base better than Rustoleum or Krylon paints for plastic. It's more expensive, yes, but also doesn't drip as much. Still has to be top-coated with a gloss paint and the trick is wait for the Dupli-color to fully dry. If the Dupli-color paint isn't fully dry, it reacts with the gloss coat and the plastic can melt!
Oh, and the Retrobrite method doesn't work. The white plastic will yellow again within a few years. You might only be accelerating the end-stage of the plastic which is to crumble. The plastic gets more brittle over time and will eventually crack.
Love the history lesson 💯
My first arcade stick ever was an HRAP3 SA (silver top, black body) like the one you showcase in this vid but with stock parts.
So nice, I ended up getting twice (sold the first one to get a "better" fightstick when I started getting into FGs, now I have the stock one again in display).
Great content you got here, btw. I remember seeing the first vid and thinking how dope the presentation was but you also gotten better with how you layout your vids and the reviews themselves. You're doing some good shit! :D
Thanks!
You gotta make more videos. I just got into arcade sticks due to the mister FPGA and neo geo core.
Maybe some game reviews or beginner guides. Idk. But, you gotta past down the tradition!
I refit 2 of my HRAP 3 joysticks with Hayabusa parts. They're essentially HRAP 3 Hayabusa now! I appreciate the Classic HRAP base more with Hayabusa and Seimitsu parts than Sanwa parts. I am NOT a fan of the JLF lever, period, but do like the Sanwa pushbuttons installed on the Agetec and Mad Catz TE/Rd 1 joystick bases.
The first I changed all but the two 24mm buttons. I had Sanwa 24mm's so I kept those. 30mm red Hayabusa buttons replaced the red, white, and black Sanwa 30mm buttons I had installed for years. The last joystick I had in that base (an HRAP 3 SA) was an LS-32 clone/Zippyy joystick. Replaced LS-32 clone lever with the Hayabusa lever after cutting a small rectangular piece out of upper left corner the Hayabusa mounting plate. A 38mm carmine red Wico replica balltop handle was installed on this base's Hayabusa lever.
[That Zippyy clone, btw, was refit late last year with official Seimitsu LS-32 parts. The Zippyy base, shaft, and pivot were retained but the microswitches, baseplate, and shaft parts below the pivot were placed with LS-32 stock parts. It's cheaper to buy an LS-32 to begin with but I didn't want to throw away the Zippyy bases and was curious about the Omron microswitches versus the Panasonic switches used in pre-2017 LS-32s. I detected no great difference between the Omron and Panasonic microswitches in the LS-32 but they're both far superior to the crappy, easily-breaking Zippyy microswitches that shipped with the otherwise excellent Zippyy lever base.]
The second HRAP 3 with parts replaced was the Amazon.jp exclusive white HRAP 3. In that joystick base, I installed charcoal black Hayabusa buttons. (The white Hayabusa buttons were LONG sold out. Hori only manufactures charcoal buttons regularly and those are hard to buy outside of the Hori pro joystick hardware. I don't even know if Hori produces parts for Japanese arcades anymore! Might not be since the Japanese arcade business is on the decline.) All Sanwa buttons were replaced with Hayabusa buttons. An oversized translucent white 38mm balltop was installed on the Hayabusa lever. The Hayabusa mounting plate had the same section of MP cut out as the HRAP 3 SA's lever.
The 2 reasons Hori would not certify the compatibility of Hayabusa levers for the Classic HRAPs (1-3) were overlap of the mounting plate (an easy mod of the Mounting Plate done with a Dremel with cutting wheel attachment) with the PCB in the HRAP 3 models and an overlap of the Hayabusa lever's 5-prong adapter with the X button. The X button overlap affects installation in the HRAP 2 and 3; can't confirm if the overlap is an issue with the HRAP 1 because I plug the L1 and L2 button spots in the licensed HRAPs (PS2 game licenses that reuse the HRAP 1 faceplate minus the turbo cutout) that I own.
(Frankly, I HATE the HRAP 1 faceplate and if I could afford to would replace the faceplates that have the HRAP 1 button layout. I don't like the button angle of the L1/L2 positions and find those buttons unuseable in fighting games anyway.)
The X button overlap in the HRAP 2 and 3 are easily dealt with. The 5-prong adapter is held onto the Hayabusa base by a small screw. Remove that screw and let the adapter hang down at a 30-degree angle. The joystick harness will easily clear the X button now! I also recommend gluing the 5-prong adapter into position with hot glue to reduce mechanical wire on the small wires soldered into the 5-prong adapter.
Besides modding the Hori Hayabusa mounting plate lightly, you could remove that Hori mounting plate and use a JLF mounting plate to install the Hayabusa lever in the HRAP 3 base instead. The JLF MP is narrower and doesn't overlap with the Hori PCB in the HRAP 3. Remember, Hori Hayabusa levers are compatible with most Sanwa JLF parts = 35mm balltop handles, JLF shaft and dustcovers, the Sanwa pivot, spring holder, spring, actuator, AND JLF mounting plate.
These Hayabusa lever mods do not affect gameplay performance. Very little of the mounting plate needs to be cut off to clear the PCB. The 5-prong mod is easily undone with a hair dryer to soften the hot glue. The 5-prong adapter can always be screwed back on OR left as-is and installed in most joystick bases with the mod left on.
Awesome video! Been enjoying the whole series. I used to have the HRAP 1 and 3, and I loved them. Their size and weight was perfect for taking to tourneys. Sadly, I had to sell both of them when I was barely making ends meat. When I got back into gaming, the Kai just came out and I got that. I should've just got the regular HRAP back though.
You should review the hayabusa arcade sticks.
I think you might need to reupload the video thumbnail, idk if it's just me but I'm seeing a blank image..
Anyways, great video once again dude! I've always been more drawn to the MadCatz TE sticks, but this is really making me want to mod a classic Hori RAP. The body shape kinda looks like the classic Sega candy cab control panels but compacted. I think they'd look great with a reworked version of the legit arcade control panel art designs.. A mini Versus City HRAP would be so sick!
Awesome video, please keep them coming!
These are the best arcade sticks of all time IMO ,including the vewlix,. do you have the HRAP SE (special edition) that came stock with Seimitsu PS-14-GX "industrial grade" buttons???, that was only HRAP2 sold in Japan by phone call/mail, only a few sample units for the press and magazines reviewers were made, around 400 units.
Hori doesn't make enough white bodied sticks. That Rap 2 and that mythical White Rap N are genuinely beautiful sticks.
I guess it's time to bust out that vinyl wrap lol.
Awesome production dude, I'm a new subscriber and watched all the videos. I love all the retro sticks that I used to really want when I was a kid. Maybe you can do a run down on what are the best retro sticks to modernize for use on current and future systems like the next xbox and PS5. Props in high regard for the R-type Final game play.
love the classic hrap
Again, excellent review !
What type are those tiny buttons?
Art's Hobbies RIP, that dood went above and beyond for me on a stick build.
On the 360 guide button, do you have the link for the replacement? Would love to do this mod.
Love the video! Quick question though, what rack/shelf exactly is that, that your CRT are on?
What are those screws that hold the top plate and what tool do I need to remove them?
For me hori make the best home arcade stick, actualy I have 2 hayabusa RAP V for the nintendo switch ....👍👍👍
You didn’t talk about comparability. Can you use the v1 with ps1 and ps2? What kind of connection do they have? Controller port or usb?? How about the v3 can that work with ps2 and ps3?
1&2 are a ps2 controller with ps2 connection, 3 is usb just for PS3 or Xbox 360
What are the models where the buttons are NOT soldered to the pcb?
Hey! Great video! Do you have a link for the small button from Amazon for the X360 joystick?
What size buttons did you use for the home L3 R3 on the panel?
is there more details of the art hobbies tek innovations mod mentioned at about 5:20 ?
Hope to see MAS episode soon :)
Me too haha!
My first stick
whoah the green goblin i remember those
3:27 Have you tried the Seimitsu LS-40? It have the same larger size and same microswitches as in a 32 but it has a thicker body and a new pivot. The thicker body means that it has a shorter throw and the pivot feels great. It's my favorite stick together with the 32.
Ironically the mounting plate on the T5 HRAP doesn't have that.
I love this stick, I own 3.
There currently is no RAP 5. There's a RAP V, but the V stands for vewlix and is the same as the RAP 4 (with the 4 standing for PS4) just for other platforms. Its a dumb naming system that confuses people into getting the wrong stick. Anyways an actual RAP 5 will probably come out for the ps5 generation so this will be a moot point by then.
I've been eyeing an Ultra Ulia and the only reason I haven't picked one up yet is 'cause I can't find an easy place to find face prints for it.
Are some of the bodies wider than the others
Do you think you can do a small tutorial on modding this type of stick to be universal like what you did here?
Is there a guide to install a brook retro board in the hrap 3?
I got a rap ex shell recently. It's nice and roomy and all the pcb actually still worked but didn't have the standoff for it in the bottom of the main compartment like your, suggesting a previous owner had swap the middle layer from a different hrap and left everything else but the lever. The middle layer has like a could hairline cracks at the back corners that aren't actually structural.
Making it work!
@@ScanlineCity I got it for free and it's a lot better then the cheap jewelry box I had before. There's also like room for 6 padhacks in this thing, the old pcb isn't common ground so it doesn't work with my ls-32 because I have the 5 pin version without soldering to the pcb on my lever. So it's sitting in a box because it's getting my 360 padhack to start. Also did Hori do the toploading thing with the base model hrap ex?
@@nottobay6768 Nope, it still had those security bolts in them. The SE version has actual top-load screws in it though.
Update: Should be getting around to completing the 6 button conversion with a fa plexi, gonna be going the home panel delete route as well so any advice you have for cutting holes in the back wall would be appreciated.
8:00 Let's see a video for this particular mod!
Might be a stupid question, but I'm gonna ask anyway:
When you dropped your UFB inside that RAP 3, what replacement buttons did you put in to replace the L3/R3/Home and Turbo buttons? And how'd you wire them to your board?
I actually just got some cheap push buttons on amazon and drilled out the panel to accomadate them. That way i was able to bypass the original board and wire directly feom new buttons to the ufb
How to clean maintain hrap3 from inside? I think some dust got inside the buttons. When pressing them sometimes they won't respond to presses.
I would just pop out the buttons and take them apart so you can clean them. Its just two peices for each button ...pinch the edges , seperate the two pieces and clean out the inside.
Solid video! Question: is it the LS-32 or the LS-32-01 that comes stock in the EX-SE? If it's the LS-32, is the wiring soldered to the fastener, or are there quick disconnects?
Ugh dang I can't remember!
@@ScanlineCity Haha, no worries! I figured it out: it's the LS-32 with the old-school fasteners. I just wanted to plot out my mod for this thing, lol.
Is the Hori Game cube arcade stick any good? Love this channel man.
The soul calibur 2 one?
@@ScanlineCity Exactly, that one. I like the artwork and was hoping I could mod it.
@@foch3 yes you can certainly mod it. Very similar to modding hori fighting stick neo
Man i love how they look but i really wish they'd come with a straight button layout as it's my preffered choice, but i guess i could try them out someday.
What is your favorite stick with that layout? MAS?
@@ScanlineCity I didn't know actual companies made straight button fightsticks, i've only ever saw 40000-party companies here in Brazil doing those, and actual cabinets of course
@@ScanlineCity Alright so i guess they look alright, but it looks like the main face buttons are smaller than the start-select buttons?Weird pbs.twimg.com/media/BHysK6aCAAAiHiL.jpg
@@TAS-ot8ps I'll be doing a big episode on MAS sticks soon. Look out for that one. Basically all straight layouts
@@ScanlineCity Sounds good, good luck on that
I had one of this
Bro, your videos are INCREDIBLE. you should be hired by somebody to do something. Listen I have the xbox seimitsu one, top black, bottom white. I want to turn the bottom black. Do you have any advice on how to do it?
Are you wanting to change the body black?
If so my suggestion is to actually look for a cheap HRAP with a black body (with turbo area cut out) and swap the body. For example you could look for the standard xbox 360 hrap ex which I believe has a black body. Heck if you do that you could just swap both bodies. Obviously you could paint but its a little risky and wont look as good most likely
@@ScanlineCity yep, thats going to be the best option. keep it up champ!
Do you have the arcade sticks for PC? I'm gonna use it for the KOF XIII & XIV, Tekken 7, Street Fighter V, Blazblue, Guilty Gear and Marvel Vs Capcom.
Was only able to mount a JLF on my Arcana Hearts RAP 🙁
Would have loved to mount an LS-32
Yup. That's why I made that chart. It was always a guessing game as to what you could mount. Still a cool stick though. I love the ls55 which you could mount in that stick
@@ScanlineCity Scanline City when I saw the chart I couldn't believe how many sticks there were for the RAP series
I've never tried the LS-55. My two stick preference are the old LS-32 and old Hayabusa sticks with AM5 Microswitches. Hayabusa modded with the Kowal 1mm actuator
Though I did make due modding the JLF with the actuator as well :)
Btw love the video and keep up the legendary work!
@@c2ironfist great choice! Cant go wrong with that!
7:22 hori Real Arcade Pro 3 (the one you holding). Where did you buy those panel buttons from?
Amazon I believe. Search momentary push buttons. I'm thinking they are between 10 and 14mm
That was back when people were buying chuthulu boards so sticks could play on multiple systems.
Any plans to do a vid on the old MAS / Happ sticks?
Absolutely. Already in the lineup
What game are you playing at the 7:00 mark? I have the Hori Real Arcade Pro 3 SA. I love it. It's such a solid stick.
That's R-Type Final for the PS2. Awesome game!
@@ScanlineCity thank you for responding!
My Friend just picked up a Playstation 2 Royds Modular fightstick, trying to figure out a way to mod it replacing the Joystick & Buttons. It has a Button PCB & low profile joystick using semeitsu style switches. (It's not a full joystick, it's made like backwards. Very weird!) Trying to fit a LS-56 in it. Any advice?
Ugh man....i actually owned one of these myself and attempted to mod it all sanwa...it was tough and I ended up selling. If I were to go back and do it again I would certainly go seimitsu joystick and mount directly to that topmetal plate rather than the plastic. I tried to use the plastic to not show bolts but it was just too hard. That said a seimitsu stick would be easier either way.. Perhaps drill some countersink holes or even use carrige bolts on that metal plate?
@@ScanlineCity I will be very careful, thanks a lot. It's just such a unique design, I couldn't resist.
@@ScanlineCity I think I managed to wire the modular boards to a Brook UFB, I think I made a Frankenstein.
@@joebombable yesssssss!!!!!!!!
You didn't get an RG edition?
Here caus3 SF6 is 2 months away
Should I spend $230 on the Hori Real Arcade Pro 2 limited Edition that is mint condition?
Would it be your main stick? If yes then I'd say go for it if its mint
@@ScanlineCity no, is just one of those stick that I want in my collection for a long time
@@XoDahuaoX if it makes you happy go for it. Mint condition you won't find much cheaper
Hey dude, nice collection. We seem to have similar interests. I recently bought 7 boxes worth of fight stick from Japan. If your looking for quirky or interesting 3rd to 6th gen let me know.
Nice dude! Well at this point I dont think I have space for anymore haha. I must have over 100
@@ScanlineCity lots more videos to come. Great content. Looking forward to it
I still have the HRAP 3 Blazblue and those buttons were kinda dogshit. Swapped them out for seimitsu. The latest gen hori hardware is much much better.
I came across this stick online for 15 dollars, is it worth it🤔🤔🤔
Absolutely
Joystick porn!
What game is this @ ruclips.net/video/Z0aMbPtqRAM/видео.html
拆解错了！