Engine Run with Raw Water - A leaking Keel
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- Опубликовано: 18 сен 2024
- I'm closing in on the bow hull glassing and finishing. I did a test run of the engine with raw water cooling, in the process I managed to flood the bilge and discovered a problem with the keel.
The bow is looking great. You’ll be happy every time you look at it that you spent more time fairing it.
Thanks! Now we'll see about the rest of the boat, I'm afraid I'll lose a little steam as I go!
The wood portion of your boat I have little advice, But the old time sailors put salt on the Deck beam clamps, so that any fresh water gets on board. it gets converted to salt water. Salt water pickles wood and preserves it. Maybe put salt in the bildge?
George mentioned in his book the old timers salting the bilge, but he suggested the copper naphthenate, then once a year spray more into the dark corners.
You might consider putting guards over the front of your main engine, those belts will eat you when off shore. I just drove from Astoria OR, to the San Jan Islands of WA, fairly calm seas, yet we were rocking and rolling. In the engine room I had to keep a 'hand for the boat' the front of the main would have been very scary without guards
You haven't been watching long enough, a while back I did a preemptive strike against everyone that was going to tell me to put guards up. I said I had plans to put a guard up, but was going to wait until I was closer to having the engine done so I didn't have to work around it.
I have square bit SS screws all over my boat. I have found the square bit screws don't give me near the issues of the other screws.
Oh my! The only thing worse than a flat bit is a square bit. I just haven't had any luck with them, especially on stainless steel screws. If you know of a bit/screw combo that won't strip, I'm all ears. I've had the best luck with star bits, at least in the larger sizes, anything smaller than a T25 and it gets a bit dodgy.
@@DieselDuck48IoBuild-rp4dn I'm on a steel boat but the whole interiour is wood, and the it is all removable with square bit screws. (like a thousand of them) Due to a lot of upgrades I have done, many of these screws have been removed and reinstalled. Zero issues.
3:25 Not sure if it's worth it to buy a tool just for this but there are palm nailers you could use in these tight spaces where you can't efficiently swing a hammer. They're pneumatic and I think they're usually used on for example joist hangers. But if you want cordless, looks like at least Milwaukee has an electric version but it's significantly more expensive (think 20-40$ vs 150$) and quite large compared to it's pneumatic brethren. Torque Test Channel has a video about the Milwaukee compared to pneumatic Metabo if you're interested.
And now that I watched a little further, perhaps a palm nailer could help reduce the risk of possible collateral damage from hammering. How well they work with smaller nails, I'm not sure, perhaps there are different versions available with different sized end bits. You'd have to do further research.
@@Lagittaja Yeah, that could work. I watch Ship Happens and they use (I think) a Ryobi cordless palm nailer. Of course if I can get in there with a palm nailer I can get it there with my brad nailer too. The palm nailer would have the benefit of using stainless nails...
@@DieselDuck48IoBuild-rp4dn Yeah, that's true. I should've watched a little bit further before commenting as you showed the brad nailer as well. Pondered whether I should've deleted the comment but decided to leave it.
Talking of stainless, did a quick search for stainless brads, they are available? Lowes for example sells 18g Freeman brand, 304 alloy. Maybe not available in the length you need?
@@Lagittaja I didn't see any SS brads at my store. The nearest Lowes or Home Depot is over an hour away from me so I don't go there often. I'm sure the steel brads will be fine.
Is it possible the water level in the bilge was above the floor timber, allowing the water to go straight down the bolt hole from the top?
Unfortunately no, where the water entered the bolt hole was several frames ahead of the engine room, where the water originated. So for it to have gone over a frame, you'd need hundreds of gallons, and we were only talking 10 or 15 gallons that got in.