Thank you so much! My issues and tips. I welded 2 small allen wrenches together and made a pick to release the clip. Raise the red tab, twist allen wrench to push clip in and it released. I used a 4 prong spring holder to start the new one, then GENTLY used a straight screw driver in the end of the sensor to insert a few threads. A large screwdriver is required for this. The tools mentioned from AUTOZONE are a must. The socket, swivel, and long 1/4” extension is a must. I lost about 3-4 ozs of coolant. No burping needed. Took about 20 mins from start to finish. 5 star rating. Thank you for the video.
Did mine today. Just as you said, it takes the exact socket to fit on there and break it loose. Took about an hour, nd I had to replace the little plastic clip but we are good to go without spending the 700 bucks the mechanic wanted for the same job which cost me a total of 70 bucks for parts and tools. Thank you VERY much!!
I had 3 different 15mm sockets and had to go to auto zone for that specific 1/4" drive to make this work. Started the car after the repair, didn't fix the problem. Discontented the battery for 2 hours to clear the codes and drain all the temporary memory. Fixed!
I came back to say thanks, with a cool engine only a couple drops came out. Took about an hour. I used a piece of tape sticky side out on the end of an extension to get her new one gently started in. And pull the red lock tab up fully before depressing the little harness clip.
@goldfish02rex, can you describe what you mean by "depressing the little harness clip"? i'm attempting this fix right now on my 2017 Acadia. I bent the end of a coat-hanger and was able to pull the red locking tab all the way up, but I cannot figure out how to get the connector off the sensor without breaking it.
Came out easy. I cut a 15mm down. Had a little problem getting it to start. I put Teflon tape on the sensor nut so it would stay in the socket and put it in place with a magnet. I threaded the sensor in a few turns with one of those grippy bendable arms or pinch arms. Put my extention on and tighten her up. I used picks to undo the clip.
Something I didn't see in this video was a close up of the plug that connects to the sensor and I am seeing two different replacements online. Of course the latch for the plug is on the backside so I'm going to try to look at it with a dentist mirror... gonna have to break out the spectacles for this one! Great video, though. Thanks for the help
Bro thank you for this video. Saved me some work this morning. I got it replaced using your method. Was a little bit of a pain in the ass getting the thread started but once they were it was easy.
p0128 is set by the thermostat opening early {Defective} it will open at 160 instead of 190 the ECM with assume the temp sensor is invalid the temp gauge will go to cold radiator fan will go to high HVAC will not work and Steering assist message will display. Replace the thermostat and clear the codes and you should be good. Also check this TSB Bulletin No.: 17-NA-158 General Motors LGX 3.6
On these, it's been the thermostat in most of the cases. I did both the thermostat and the sensor since the sensor was low cost anyway. Haven't had a problem since.
@@daquezada9 just change thermostat. When it fails it is stuck open, the engine never warms up, the control module sees temperature as invalid so temp Guage is turned off radiator fan on high. your temp sensor has not failed it's just being ignored
The thermostat can also cause this code. The video on how to replace that is also posted. If the thermostat fails, it is supposed to be reported by the coolant temp sensor. If the temp sensor fails, it reports the same failure code. Best of luck!
@@Mil-usos i changed it this morning. Dental pick to pull safety tab long needle nose to pull plug and 15mm 3/8 and adaptor and swivel. Also pulled the egr line. 30min job. Have a good flashlight and patience.
The GM part for this sensor has a taller black plastic tip to it (where the plug goes into). It is too tall for that particular socket used in this video, So you would have to use a deeper socket which basically means you would have to remove that intake. Solution is to buy a generic part from O'reilly that has a shorter black plastic tip.
worked great thanks, but still tricky. I would say one should at least buy a replacement harness section for that sensor since its very tough to operate that clip properly when removing without causing damage. Access there is tight to say the least. Its only 20 bucks and can be returned if you don't use it
I have looked for videos or even a diagram that shows how to remove sensor connector without busting the clip off, is there anything you now know or where to look to safely remove the clip?
From other videos, it is the same clip as the others at the front of the engine. Pull up a little on the red clip, then push the tab to open the lock and pull off.
Want to attempt this to with my 2019 Acadia. Was the temp sensor the source of your issues with driver assist/ac/radiator fans on high? Or was it your thermostat? Seen you posted another video replacing thermostat? And also did you replace intake gaskets when you replace the thermostat? Would love to save my self time and money around the holidays.
Great question! Here's what I understand: 1: Thermostat starts to fail, the failure is detected by the coolant temp sensor and tells the ECU "Yo, we got a P0128." 2: sensor malfunction Coolant temp sensor is acting up and one of it's tantrums is to lie to the ECU by telling it "Yo, we got a P0128." Other causes that can trigger P0128: Low coolant Clogged cooling system part (usually a radiator) The most "likely" cause for these specific engines has been the thermostat. Best of luck!!!
Did you have to reset anything after replacing the sensor? I just replaced mine and it is still doing the same as before. Just want to make sure I didn’t have to do anything else after replacing it.
@@Mil-usos just swapped it out. So far it’s perfect. Took it for a test drive. So I tried to drain some of the fluid through the radiator drain plug. I twisted it 90 degrees. Not a drop. Ended up creating a mess like u did when I took the faulty sensor out. I could not find a radiator cap on top of the radiator. Any idea? Regardless, no symptoms as previous. No “driver assistance…” warning, temperature control is working, engine temperature gauge is working.
Having this same issue...just got it back from the shop for the same thing...they replaced thermostat and ECT sensor....but throwing the P0119 and P0118...nothing about thermostat so I am going to attempt to change the ECT again. Hopefully I can do it
@@CoastieGaming so the symptoms came back to my truck this past weekend. Took it to the dealership. Apparently I still have warranty. They are going to replace the thermostat. I’ll see if that finally fixes my truck for good…. My truck never displayed any codes though. Just symptoms. Temp gauge not working, driver safety assistance not working, cabin temperature control not properly working.
@@favioalvarez2770 originally we had the codes for the thermostat and cooling temp sensor so that is what was changed under warranty. Now it's just coolant temp sensor. Your video makes the sensor seem pretty easy to change so I am going to try. We just don't have time for the car to go back to the shop.
The new Sensors that GM is providing cannot be removed with the shallow 15mm socket ... the sensor is much taller and will require a 15mm deep socket. Plot Twist !!
Good question. To get rid of any pockets of air that may be in the cooling system, you can "burp" the cooling system. There are a few ways to do it depending on the tools you have available. Find the method that works best for.
You're not wrong. I filmed both of these separately mainly because the thermostat was on a ridiculous backorder time frame at the time. Otherwise, it would've been one video.
Did you keep getting the steering assist reduced message along with the temp gauge going to 0 is that why you changed this? Mines doing that and I'm pretty sure this sensor is the cause. Gmc wants a boat load of money for a 10 dollar sensor
The beginning of your video you say you didnt have to remove anything, but when you’re removing the ECT sensor, its clear you’ve removed the intake. So the question is, can it really be done without removing or shifting the intake over an inch like in your video?
When 1st filming this, I began to tear everything apart. It wasn't till way later in the processes that I discovered it could be done without all the shenanigans. Someone else commented and tried this method and it did work for them without removing it shifting things around. I edited the video as best I could to get to the point without having to re-shoot the whole thing.
Replacing the sensor with the new one took the most time for me. At first I tried the old hose trick like you can do on a recessed spark plug. But the 5/8 vinyl hose was too thick to be flexible. Eventually I started it carefully with a flat blade screwdriver in the sensor connector port. I put some tape around the screwdriver blade to prevent it from going in too far and bending the sensor pins. (Ask me how I know!). Be aware the the sensor mounting surface is not horizontal. It tilts to the rear of the SUV, so you need to match the angle when starting the thread. Once I was sure it wasn't crossthreaded, I used the 1/4" drive 15mm socket to tight. The torque for the sensor is 80 inch pounds- not 80 foot pound like someone said in another video.
Thank you so much! My issues and tips. I welded 2 small allen wrenches together and made a pick to release the clip. Raise the red tab, twist allen wrench to push clip in and it released. I used a 4 prong spring holder to start the new one, then GENTLY used a straight screw driver in the end of the sensor to insert a few threads. A large screwdriver is required for this.
The tools mentioned from AUTOZONE are a must. The socket, swivel, and long 1/4” extension is a must. I lost about 3-4 ozs of coolant. No burping needed. Took about 20 mins from start to finish. 5 star rating. Thank you for the video.
Did mine today. Just as you said, it takes the exact socket to fit on there and break it loose. Took about an hour, nd I had to replace the little plastic clip but we are good to go without spending the 700 bucks the mechanic wanted for the same job which cost me a total of 70 bucks for parts and tools. Thank you VERY much!!
Thanks for the tip. Kinda thought it was do-able but seeing your success confirmed it. The toughest part is getting the new sensor threads started.
Same. Any tips to get the threads started?
Life saver. Use a pick to unlock the red clip and pick to press in the tab so you don't break it
I had 3 different 15mm sockets and had to go to auto zone for that specific 1/4" drive to make this work. Started the car after the repair, didn't fix the problem. Discontented the battery for 2 hours to clear the codes and drain all the temporary memory. Fixed!
I came back to say thanks, with a cool engine only a couple drops came out. Took about an hour. I used a piece of tape sticky side out on the end of an extension to get her new one gently started in. And pull the red lock tab up fully before depressing the little harness clip.
@goldfish02rex, can you describe what you mean by "depressing the little harness clip"? i'm attempting this fix right now on my 2017 Acadia. I bent the end of a coat-hanger and was able to pull the red locking tab all the way up, but I cannot figure out how to get the connector off the sensor without breaking it.
@@jmlemay2007 did you ever find out how to remove clip without breaking it
A small piece of paper towel inside the socket itself really helps the new sensor stay in the socket while threading it in!
Man im having a heck of a time getting the new sensor started
Came out easy. I cut a 15mm down. Had a little problem getting it to start. I put Teflon tape on the sensor nut so it would stay in the socket and put it in place with a magnet. I threaded the sensor in a few turns with one of those grippy bendable arms or pinch arms. Put my extention on and tighten her up. I used picks to undo the clip.
Thanks for your help just replace mines on a 2019 Chevy Blazer RS took about 30 minutes with cool engine only lost half a cup of antifreeze 💯💯💯👍🏿
Something I didn't see in this video was a close up of the plug that connects to the sensor and I am seeing two different replacements online. Of course the latch for the plug is on the backside so I'm going to try to look at it with a dentist mirror... gonna have to break out the spectacles for this one! Great video, though. Thanks for the help
I'll probably be doing this come summer. My sensor is starting to go. Thank you!
Bro thank you for this video. Saved me some work this morning. I got it replaced using your method. Was a little bit of a pain in the ass getting the thread started but once they were it was easy.
Any tricks for reinstallation w/o removing anything? Currently working the same problem and short on time; trying to avoid a 1200+ labor bill...
Great been wanting to do this to 2019 GMC Acaida
p0128 is set by the thermostat opening early {Defective} it will open at 160 instead of 190 the ECM with assume the temp sensor is invalid the temp gauge will go to cold radiator fan will go to high HVAC will not work and Steering assist message will display. Replace the thermostat and clear the codes and you should be good. Also check this TSB Bulletin No.: 17-NA-158 General Motors LGX 3.6
Thank you I just solved my problem
So was it the sensor or thermostat that fixes the problem?
On these, it's been the thermostat in most of the cases. I did both the thermostat and the sensor since the sensor was low cost anyway. Haven't had a problem since.
@@daquezada9 just change thermostat. When it fails it is stuck open, the engine never warms up, the control module sees temperature as invalid so temp Guage is turned off radiator fan on high. your temp sensor has not failed it's just being ignored
Thank you for saving me so much time by having the right tools on hand! I was done in 10 minutes with this job!
AUTOZONE 1/4 DRIVE SOCKET IN 15MM IS A MUST NOT ANY OTHER BRAND
Thank you for this video I’ve been just clearing the code that’ll fix it for awhile but it’ll do it again
The thermostat can also cause this code. The video on how to replace that is also posted.
If the thermostat fails, it is supposed to be reported by the coolant temp sensor. If the temp sensor fails, it reports the same failure code. Best of luck!
@@Mil-usos i changed it this morning. Dental pick to pull safety tab long needle nose to pull plug and 15mm 3/8 and adaptor and swivel. Also pulled the egr line. 30min job. Have a good flashlight and patience.
The GM part for this sensor has a taller black plastic tip to it (where the plug goes into). It is too tall for that particular socket used in this video, So you would have to use a deeper socket which basically means you would have to remove that intake. Solution is to buy a generic part from O'reilly that has a shorter black plastic tip.
YOU JUS EARNED MY SUBSCRIPTION. GOOD ONE!!
worked great thanks, but still tricky. I would say one should at least buy a replacement harness section for that sensor since its very tough to operate that clip properly when removing without causing damage. Access there is tight to say the least. Its only 20 bucks and can be returned if you don't use it
How do you get the plug out
I have looked for videos or even a diagram that shows how to remove sensor connector without busting the clip off, is there anything you now know or where to look to safely remove the clip?
From other videos, it is the same clip as the others at the front of the engine. Pull up a little on the red clip, then push the tab to open the lock and pull off.
Did you use a needle nose to get the plug off the sensor? Having a hard time getting anything in that tight space to allow access for the socket
Yeah, he broke the plug….good luck
Want to attempt this to with my 2019 Acadia. Was the temp sensor the source of your issues with driver assist/ac/radiator fans on high? Or was it your thermostat? Seen you posted another video replacing thermostat? And also did you replace intake gaskets when you replace the thermostat? Would love to save my self time and money around the holidays.
Great question! Here's what I understand:
1: Thermostat starts to fail, the failure is detected by the coolant temp sensor and tells the ECU "Yo, we got a P0128."
2: sensor malfunction
Coolant temp sensor is acting up and one of it's tantrums is to lie to the ECU by telling it "Yo, we got a P0128."
Other causes that can trigger P0128:
Low coolant
Clogged cooling system part (usually a radiator)
The most "likely" cause for these specific engines has been the thermostat. Best of luck!!!
Would you recommend draining the coolant or was it just a bit where it would only need a top off after the install?
I did a top off and burped the system. No issues came if it. It was a small amount.
Did you have to reset anything after replacing the sensor? I just replaced mine and it is still doing the same as before. Just want to make sure I didn’t have to do anything else after replacing it.
Let me know what you find out
Usually if just the sensor doesn't cure the problems, the thermostat also needs to be replaced.
I had to clear the codes for engine light to go off and it didn't come back on after fixing the sensor
Should one drain all the coolant out first then leave cap off so it doesn’t spray me?
On an engine that's cold, others have reported (in these comments too) that about a cup or less of coolant is lost, and it doesn't spray.
This corrected the issue where the coolant gauge drops to 0 and you get the message steering assistance reduced and ac stops working?
Yes, yes it does. If the problem comes back, you also need to replace the thermostat. Most replace both at the same time for good measure.
Can you tell me the 15 sockets is 1/4", 3/8" thanks
1/4
The sensor swap fix the problems with the truck?
As a matter of fact it did! It's been 3 weeks with no issues since replacement.
@@Mil-usos just swapped it out. So far it’s perfect. Took it for a test drive. So I tried to drain some of the fluid through the radiator drain plug. I twisted it 90 degrees. Not a drop. Ended up creating a mess like u did when I took the faulty sensor out. I could not find a radiator cap on top of the radiator. Any idea? Regardless, no symptoms as previous. No “driver assistance…” warning, temperature control is working, engine temperature gauge is working.
Having this same issue...just got it back from the shop for the same thing...they replaced thermostat and ECT sensor....but throwing the P0119 and P0118...nothing about thermostat so I am going to attempt to change the ECT again. Hopefully I can do it
@@CoastieGaming so the symptoms came back to my truck this past weekend. Took it to the dealership. Apparently I still have warranty. They are going to replace the thermostat. I’ll see if that finally fixes my truck for good…. My truck never displayed any codes though. Just symptoms. Temp gauge not working, driver safety assistance not working, cabin temperature control not properly working.
@@favioalvarez2770 originally we had the codes for the thermostat and cooling temp sensor so that is what was changed under warranty. Now it's just coolant temp sensor. Your video makes the sensor seem pretty easy to change so I am going to try. We just don't have time for the car to go back to the shop.
Did you have to reset anything electronically?
Great question, I don't remember 🤦
I have an advanced scanner, so that's not something I usually look at.
The new Sensors that GM is providing cannot be removed with the shallow 15mm socket ... the sensor is much taller and will require a 15mm deep socket. Plot Twist !!
What do you mean burp the system. I’m about to give this a shot
Good question. To get rid of any pockets of air that may be in the cooling system, you can "burp" the cooling system. There are a few ways to do it depending on the tools you have available. Find the method that works best for.
Interesting, I have all signs of a bad thermostat/sensor without a code
It is easier to replace thermostat and sensor at the same time. Replacing sensor does not always fix the issue.
You're not wrong. I filmed both of these separately mainly because the thermostat was on a ridiculous backorder time frame at the time. Otherwise, it would've been one video.
lol not to mention that the stat is $100 plus vs $ 10 for the ECT.
Did you keep getting the steering assist reduced message along with the temp gauge going to 0 is that why you changed this? Mines doing that and I'm pretty sure this sensor is the cause. Gmc wants a boat load of money for a 10 dollar sensor
Correct. If just swapping out the sensor doesn't alleviate the symptoms, then the thermostat need to be swapped too.
@@Mil-usos ok thanks alot. Do u happen to know if the 2018 is the same as the 2019?
@@travisswiley7663 Yessir... same same
@@Mil-usos perfect thanks alot
The beginning of your video you say you didnt have to remove anything, but when you’re removing the ECT sensor, its clear you’ve removed the intake. So the question is, can it really be done without removing or shifting the intake over an inch like in your video?
When 1st filming this, I began to tear everything apart. It wasn't till way later in the processes that I discovered it could be done without all the shenanigans. Someone else commented and tried this method and it did work for them without removing it shifting things around. I edited the video as best I could to get to the point without having to re-shoot the whole thing.
I was wondering if that could be done without removing intake thanks very helpful video
Removing the radiator cap will depressurize the system. I have seen these things sit overnight and still have pressure on the system.
How crazy was it trying to line it back up for the installation?
I don't recall it being crazy at all. Little to no fight if I recall correctly.
@@Mil-usos thanks. Gonna give it a go.
Replacing the sensor with the new one took the most time for me. At first I tried the old hose trick like you can do on a recessed spark plug. But the 5/8 vinyl hose was too thick to be flexible. Eventually I started it carefully with a flat blade screwdriver in the sensor connector port. I put some tape around the screwdriver blade to prevent it from going in too far and bending the sensor pins. (Ask me how I know!). Be aware the the sensor mounting surface is not horizontal. It tilts to the rear of the SUV, so you need to match the angle when starting the thread. Once I was sure it wasn't crossthreaded, I used the 1/4" drive 15mm socket to tight. The torque for the sensor is 80 inch pounds- not 80 foot pound like someone said in another video.