zero clearance insert plate - Ridgid table saw
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- Опубликовано: 13 янв 2017
- The ridgid table saw has a 1hp motor, not 1 1/2
A zero clearance insert plate is a nice addition to any table saw. The problem with the Ridgid R4512 table saw is the insert plate is only 1/8” thick which is not ideal to replace with a wooden one because it would make it to flimsy. In this video I manage to come up with a solution to this problem.
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David Cutter Music
www.davidcuttermusic.co.uk
Wallpaper Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
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You do have to spend some time setting the saw up... blade, fence, etc. But once done, the saw is great. Fairly compact which is Nice ruclips.net/user/postUgkxXh-4_3-ZT1fFWP91ZV7iVqzElr0lEb-a I did get an Incra Miter Gauge which takes some setup as well. The stock miter gauge can be adjusted in the miter slot with a little painter's tape... this tightens up the side to side play a lot.
Your ingenuity and skill and personality make your videos a joy to watch. Great job as usual
Thanks, i appreciate that;)
That was a great idea making a template to route the underside.
-Caleb Harris
Great job of showing a way to overcome this shortcoming of the saw. I have an identical saw that has performed well for over a year. I love the portability and it is great for a shop with limited space. Thanks.
This is a great help. My Skil 3310 table saw also has a very thin table insert.
I was thinking of doing something very similar to your method, but hadn't worked out all the details.
Thanks for solving my problem!
Just got the same saw and zero clearance inserts were next on my to do. Thanks for posting!
Nice project. I like the way you tackled that problem. It's something I've gotta do.
Great idea. I needed a zero clearance insert this past weekend for the same saw, i used a 3/16 piece of Lexan. It worked for what i needed to finish, but i like your way better.
I bought that saw recently...thanks for the great ideas.
Cheers
My table saw is about 30 - 35 years old and the blade insert is about 2mm (0.0787') thick. Further the inset consists of 2 parts of which I have removed the "zero" tolerance within days of buying the saw because it was an uneven fit and stock always got stuck to it. The downside is that I always had to clean the cavities underneath the table. Fortunately the frame (made of thick sheet plate) and the table (cast-iron) is well made and still holding up. Thus I thank you for sharing how to make a zero tolerance plate for a saw with such a thin plate.
I just bought this saw last week and it's awesome! I was just going to think of a way to make these too. Thanks!!!
Another Great video, Thanks for all the work you put in to share these inspiring builds.
and thanks for watching:)
Great video and really gives me a good jump on trying to figure out the inserts for my new R4512!
Very timely for me. I need to make some for my vintage 12" Craftsman saw. This wil be very helpful. Thanks!
Great video, Ryan! I have the Ridgid R4513 saw and have the same thin, metal insert. I guess I know what I'll be doing next time I'm in the shop....
Awesome ShopBuilt project don’t believe I as a beginner could replicate your project and make a plate for my saw
Did end up making the orientation mistake on the first attempt thou
Thanks
I like your inserts, I have an older Ridgid saw I had trouble with the maple inserts splittin after some use. I used fairly straight grain material and left it 1/2" thick. I found the arbor nut would rub when I raised the blade, while resawing material it kicked back and split the insert. I use 3/16" door skin material which is holding up better, but still need stiffer inserts. I like the template you made and will copy it for my next batch. Thanks Ryan for great videos and sharing your ideas.
Great idea! I was considering using my CNC to make some but that would probably easier. I bought the aftermarket ones when I first purchased the saw and yours look like they are more functional.
Thanks for the idea. I have the same table saw and I bought an aftermarket one for my standard blade but didn't want to have to buy one for all the different dado stack sizes. Ill have to give this a try.
I’ve had the same saw for years and love it,recently made one the same way but used 1/4” plate aluminum works awesome.
Such a great solution making the template. I made a few using forstner bits but they are difficult to mass produce. Good job, subscribed
nice demo Ryan thanks
Great idea. I will be using it on my Ridgid table saw.
Great problem solving on this project. Way to go keep the inspiration coming
Very nice. I have. Delta saw with similar issues. I’ll definitely use this information to make inserts. Thank you.
Nice inserts Ryan!
Great build. I've been looking for a simple way to do exactly this.
Right good, right good, I plum joyed it. I do like all your videos.
God Bless my friend.
Thanks for doing this. I have a kobalt job saw with the same issue and this is a huge help for me.
The pattern bit router trick was brilliant. So much easier than putting pencil all over the tabs and hoping for a transfer dark enough to see (which is what I've done). Thanks for sharing!
thanks:)
Like the video, I have a Bosch saw that has the same type plate. I like your solution better than the one I came up with. I will be copying, Thanks a bunch.
Smartest idea yet on this topic!!
This video was really helpful for me!
The insert plate that came with the table saw is exactly 3/32" thick. The inner lip was not straight so tracing it was essential, but then I needed to sand it down some more.
The inner lip isn't consistent either, so just centering the leveling pad template wasn't enough. What I did was temporarily attach the leveling pad template and the blank template together until it fit inside the opening. I then secured it, and drilled 3x 3/4" holes with a forstner bit. These would serve as the guide holes.
When I made a new blank, I would trace the guide holes with the template still attached. Then I aligned the pencil-traced holes with the leveling pad template, securing it.
On my opening (and it seems others' may differ), I have a 3/32" lip on either side, a 1/16 lip in the front, and a 1/32" lip in the back. I'm not sure about the back, but it's noticeably thinner than the side/front.
Nicely done, and nice way to avoid the thievingly expensive metal inserts.. as you did it right!
very nice solution to a some what difficult problem nice job
nice job! I have the same saw and just recently tried to make a zci for it. I used a forstner bit instead of router and it didnt do a really good job. I'll definitely try your way as soon as I have some time. Thanks for the video!
That's the same table saw I have and I would recommend it. Ive wanted to make a couple zero clearance insert plates as well but couldn't figure out how to get pasted the leveling screws. Good thinking brother!
Thanks! It is a great bang for the buck saw:)
Awesome video I can't wait to make one for my table saw👍👍
man that's awesome. I have the same saw and I absolutely love it. it's my first table saw and wonder why I never had one for the few years I've been trying my hand with the wood. the inserts look a little over my head though ha
i have the delta contractor saw and have the same issue. i ended up buying the insert when the price dropped on amazon. good idea with the trim router. ill most likely make some for mine like these in the near future.
Yes, it really is a great saw...except for that insert plate. Most of us have tried going a similar route but your method seems to have a bit of an edge on some others I've tried. Thanks for sharing!
I've used 3/4" MDF and a forstner bit to hog out the leveling pads. The advantage there was that the hole made by the center point of the bit allowed me to fine-tune the level by being able to turn the screws.
Still, your idea is pretty cool. may try that the next time I need a new plate.
Cool. Thanks for the idea
Great job ! Tips:To make the slot at the end, your fence over the plate to keep it in place.
excellent solution!
thanks, I've been wondering and hoping you'd do this. I have same saw / issue.
Hey, this looks familiar! I did a similar method and used a variety of materials. I made the template smaller, then used guide bushings that will add back the amount of material I removed. I used my drill press to remove the material around the mounting ears. I tried a similar way with the router, but it made such a mess. I did one out of UHMW, and then I added set screws to allow me to "calibrate" each insert, so I did not have to mess around with the leveling screws everytime I changed my insert.
Well done! I do have one issue with using the wood clip on the front. I really think you want to use a metal clip, as if that clip should snap, the blade could throw that insert at you (yikes!).
I have a video on my channel, but the production quality is no where as well done as yours. Someday, maybe I upgrade my camera/audio/lighting, but for now I just do it for fun.
Thanks for taking the time to put this together!
I just checked yours out, great video!
And this is the reason why I've been dragging my feet on ordering aftermarket insert plates. I'll be doing this soon as well!
i hear ya;)
I had the same issue with my rigid table saw. I used hard board cut using the insert as a pattern. then drilled the same adjuster holes. then used the lift to carve the slot. works awesome. did one for my stacked Dado and going to do another for the standard blade to stop the small cutoffs dropping g down the dust collector I just got.
Very clever. Great video.
thanks!
great job, I will do the exact same for my ridged saw.
I thought my table saw insert plates had complex geometrythey've got nothing on ridgid! great solution to a complicated problem!
nice! great problem solving and solution.
thanks!
I've got a Kobalt saw with the same insert. I did what you said and made a couple inserts out of thin plywood. I think it took longer to make them than it did for them to start falling apart. This looks like a great solution. Only problem is the back of my saw doesn't open up to give easy access to directly trace the hole. I'm thinking that I can take a picture of the opening (and a ruler for scale), then resize the image, simplify it to the basic outline, and print it out as a pattern.
Thanks for the video. I have the same problem with my Craftsman table saw.
Great video, I have the exact same table saw and have the same problem.
making a template and using a top bearing pattern bit seems like the right strategy. I will do that, probably with everyone's favorite baltic birch plywood instead of solid maple, it'd be good to get some cross-grain support on those thin sections.
Perfect thank you now I can make some for mine!
I've tried many ways to make these for my rigid table saw. I always had problems when cutting the relief notches for the tabs though. great solution. i will do this.
getting the depth of the relief notch was finicky since i didnt try to use adjustment screws, so that notch depth had to be exact.
Yeah, it would be tricky to get the depth perfect without the screws
Awesome. Thanks a bunch.
Did your OEM insert plate come with a split at the back? I'm pretty sure mine is joined there.
Smart thinking! Thanks.
Very nice, I really need to get a better table saw 🤓👍🏼
Just discovered your channel. Very good... And your table saw is much better than mine. .... Regards from Czech. Tom
Great job!
Omg this video is a lifesaver. I have this TS and am in the process of building a ZC insert for a dado stack. Talk about a brain teaser of an operation. Thanks for uploading your method! Also, I have had some issues with the fence being square, may I ask why you have a board on your fence? Does it help square things up?
Thanks for this one, I have this saw.
nice job i think i will do the same to my table saw👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I have the Porter Cable PCB270TS, which is basically the same saw only grey. I had made my inserts from two layers of 5mm ply laminated together. One cut to fit the top opening and the other cut to fit around all the tabs. Definitely like this idea better. The solution of the template and pattern bit is a great one, and much easier to replicate.
That is also a great option. I was torn between which way I wanted to do it. Because I was making 4 now and maybe more later, i thought this way might be a little faster.
Bad Ass bro ! Thank you for the example.
I have a Grizzly 715p- very similar inserts. I made one with Baltic Birch and it was a pain in the ass. Another reason I wish I'd have saved up and got a better saw :)
Magnificent
+Shop builtl - how long you have this dewalt thicknes planer ? I consider getting it - worth an effort?
Clever solution to remove the material needed for it to be flush.
JUST WHAT I NEEDED! I hate the design of the throat plate! after I saw people making super easy custom plates for their other brand table saws my Ridgid is frustrating. Interesting thing is that I saw at my work (what I believe is) an old similar Ridgid model with a thick customizable (DIY) throat plate (completely different seat and plate), I wonder if is a newer or older model.
Davic Cutter's music is EVERYWHERE on youtube these days ^^
i've been using his music since before it was cool;)
Yeah I know, your channel was one of the first places I heard it, then it just took off like crazy ^^ LOVE your videos btw, lots of well made videos and well made products!
Sweet! Cool music, kind of a '70s funk, lol!
thanx.
that was tricky! interesting!
He comes up with the best methods, doesn't he?
Might I suggest you cut one ohe three for a 45deg as you will find you use a lot of those. For the dado stacks, a normal dado isn't often cut so as to have slivers of wood that need to be kept out of being pulled down and caught between the insert and blade. A 3/4" and 3/8" would probably be enough. Just a thought. Thanks for sharing. I'm sure those with a Ridgid TS will find this video helpful!
I agree. done.
Great video. I made one out of floor laminate for my R4512, I used forstner but in my drill press to remove material for tabs and my router for the outer portion. Unfortunately after completing it, I found the it was warped. I think I'll try your method next with a different material. Thank you for the info.
I used this method on a piece of hardboard. It has been working fine ever since. I extended the opening with a jig saw go make room for the riving knife as well.
I think a clear plexiglass insert plate would look cool! Maybe even an orange plexiglass insert plate, then add a light source under it? Looks good!
Probably look great until you use it. then it would be scratched.
Maybe painted (on the underneath) to match the Ridgid color scheme.
I wouldn't do it unless you had some pretty thick plexiglass. You don't want it flexing or breaking under the weight of a heavy workpiece. It'll fall into the blade and get shot across your shop at 200mph. I'd probably go with lexan if I was gonna do a transparent one.
For us chemically-challenged, we interchange both terms (plexiglas and lexan) with impunity.
I do, however, know that there is a difference.
I have some 1/2" and 3/4" material, but I chose to reuse some old pine plywood.
Did you make adjustments for the splitter?
Very clever
i like the magnet idea.gonna use that on mine. I have the delta 36 725 though but im sure itll work.(magnet idea) I actually like my factory insert because I can use up to a 3/8 inch dado stack and raise it almost 2 inches not that I would ever make a 2 inch deep dado but you never know LOL I have a 6 inch dado blade 2 I'm sure that plays a factor but yeah I know what you mean I made a insert for mine out of plywood and it's so flimsy and flexes I keep spraying the under side wth poly and the top with wax and polyurethane but it doesn't really seem to help all that much after a few passes its flexing.thanks for sharing this.
I had the Ridgid TS-3650 contractor saw for years, the inserts were really easy to make from 1/2" ply. Those look as tedious to make as the ones I made recently for the Sawstop. Nice job! Was that soft maple? I hope they don't warp on you, Baltic Birch plywood would be the ideal material.
I really liked your approach for making the inserts, I tried something a little bit different though. I used a 3/16th" piece of plywood and some double stick tape to attach it on the back side of the metal insert. I don't know if you have the same problem as I do but you cannot raise the blade all the way up because of something on the shaft that will hit the bottom of the insert if I try to raise up fully. Ideas?
I noticed that you used solid wood for these throat plates. Would you say that solid hardwood is the best material (resisting warpage etc.) here or would you suggest something like birch ply?
a great video. now to myself some
Nice.
Does this saw work well with hard woods?
So I just bought a R4515... Per HD but my manual says it's a R4514. Either way would these also work for me?
Did you make one cutting 45 degrees or just the. Dados
You should now extend the blade opening at the back with your jig saw or a 1/8th router bit so you can continue to use your riving knife. It only takes an extra minute, and you don't have to worry about kickback as much.
Brian Buckley Check out Jareth Crowell's vid. It's exactly what you mean.
I agree 100%. The problem with homemade zero-C inserts is that the homeowner defeats the safety feature of the riving knife. I would ONLY made this mod for the saw if it included the riving knife.
Great! Looking good. Can you level it precisely with the table top ?
yes no problem at all
Do you have 0 tolerance issue with the trunnion on you your saw. I also have the Ridgid 4512 saw, but when I raise the blade up the blade is not true to the fence anymore. If so, what did you do to fix it?
looking today 8-31-2018 and it has it listed as 3.8 hp on HD website. Am I reading it right?
this is great I have the same saw and love mine except the stupid fence that never locks 90 unless I push on it.
Have you seen izzy's pvc insert plate? I think I will try both for my ridgid just to see which I like better
I used PVC for mine. I have the same problem that it needed to be shallow, some old guttering worked out fine. I use contact adhesive to glue a second smaller rectangle underneath, to make it a bit more rigid.
You were right the first time that it's 1.5 hp as far as I'm concerned. My Ridgid 3650 is 13a and 1.5 hp. The 110v Sawstop claims 1.75 hp at 14a.
Yeah, google failed me, i've sense blurred out the 2hp text but it takes a while to kick in. patiently waiting for youtube to make the edit...