Thank you for taking the time to do this video. You are a great help to the Jaguar owners. I would like to point out that you should NEVER use a claw hammer to beat on any kind of chisel or, in your case, a pickle fork. They can shatter and put out an eye. Always use a ballpin hammer.
I just finished putting new bushings in my car. Your video was very helpful. I did a few things different. Like James Creasy, I didn't separate the ball joint and I didn't need to. The old bushings either fell out, or took a little tap with a hammer and punch to knock them out. The c-clamp method is perfect for putting the new ones in. When re-assembling it, I had trouble getting the spacers back in. After cussing and fighting for a while, I took a big bolt out of my old bolt bin, and put it in the lathe. I turned it down to the diameter of the big a-arm bolt, then I put a long taper on it, almost to a point on one end. It's about 3 inches long and resembles a 50 cal bullet. Then I stuck it in the front bushing ahead of the bolt. I slid the washer and spacer in, then tapped it through. The tapered "bullet" lines up the spacers so the bolt goes right in without hanging up. I continued to tap it until the bullet was to the rear bushing, the I slid the washer and spacers in there and tapped it through. The bolt knocks the bullet out and all that's left is the washer and nut on the end, tighten it up and it's done. If anybody wants me to make them one for this job, message me. It's a huge time saver, and takes the frustration out.
I forgot to mention the bushings I used. They are an exact replacements for the originals. $112 from Uro Parts on ebay. www.ebay.com/itm/272347220653?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Thank you so much for taking the time to record these vids. I have replaced my plugs while watching your video. I look forward to replacing my bushings while watching this one.
Just did this. I didn't detach the ball joint and just did the removal/replacement with the arm in the car. A C-clamp worked fine to insert the bushings, and I used the 24mm socket I used for the bolt on alternating side of the bushing to let the center bushing tube move freely as I compressed the bushing. Also, I put the jack under the bottom of the rotor to keep it from flopping, faster than wire. Thanks for a great video!
Leave the nut on loose and hit the link with a hammer and it'll pop up.surly they aren't genuine jaguar bushes. I've done loads as a jag technician but never seen bushes like those. Those upper wishbone washers arn't for adjusting the lower wishbone arms have acentric washers for geometary adjustment.
Those bushes are illustrated in the workshop manual but yeah mine are the heavy duty spend an entire day drilling them out kind of thing. Reckon they're usually fine too though and don't need changing as the construction is bullet proof
nice vid. shows how easy cars in general are to work on. Just fyi, a pitman arm removal tool will work in lieu of the "special" jag tool, and won't damage the balljoint boot like a fork would.
This video is from 10 years ago. Not sure if complete control arm assemblies with ball joints and bushings were available then for a reasonable price...but you can get them now for a good price and install them yourself as easily as this procedure. They’re about $85 each (at least for my 2006 XJ8).. The local euro shop wants $2200 to replace them, albeit with OEM Jag parts... but honestly, I’ll take the $2000 savings
Good video, but just some suggestions: 1. Always replace the ball joint if the arm will be already removed. 2. Use a ball joint separator tool instead of a fork. If you still must use a fork, hit the joint with a sledge hammer, that might break it free.
Holy smokes!!! I just watched this video I made, ten years later. I PROMISE I wasn't taking meth. I have no idea why I'm talking so fast.
That totally nice talking speed! There was no need to play at x1,5 speed, nice :)
Thank you for taking the time to do this video. You are a great help to the Jaguar owners. I would like to point out that you should NEVER use a claw hammer to beat on any kind of chisel or, in your case, a pickle fork. They can shatter and put out an eye. Always use a ballpin hammer.
I just finished putting new bushings in my car. Your video was very helpful. I did a few things different. Like James Creasy, I didn't separate the ball joint and I didn't need to. The old bushings either fell out, or took a little tap with a hammer and punch to knock them out. The c-clamp method is perfect for putting the new ones in. When re-assembling it, I had trouble getting the spacers back in. After cussing and fighting for a while, I took a big bolt out of my old bolt bin, and put it in the lathe. I turned it down to the diameter of the big a-arm bolt, then I put a long taper on it, almost to a point on one end. It's about 3 inches long and resembles a 50 cal bullet. Then I stuck it in the front bushing ahead of the bolt. I slid the washer and spacer in, then tapped it through. The tapered "bullet" lines up the spacers so the bolt goes right in without hanging up. I continued to tap it until the bullet was to the rear bushing, the I slid the washer and spacers in there and tapped it through. The bolt knocks the bullet out and all that's left is the washer and nut on the end, tighten it up and it's done. If anybody wants me to make them one for this job, message me. It's a huge time saver, and takes the frustration out.
I forgot to mention the bushings I used. They are an exact replacements for the originals. $112 from Uro Parts on ebay. www.ebay.com/itm/272347220653?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
i was just thinking this i was about to ask "why separate ball joint"
Thank you so much for taking the time to record these vids. I have replaced my plugs while watching your video. I look forward to replacing my bushings while watching this one.
Just did this. I didn't detach the ball joint and just did the removal/replacement with the arm in the car. A C-clamp worked fine to insert the bushings, and I used the 24mm socket I used for the bolt on alternating side of the bushing to let the center bushing tube move freely as I compressed the bushing. Also, I put the jack under the bottom of the rotor to keep it from flopping, faster than wire. Thanks for a great video!
making the job look easy and straight forward
Thanks hav the same issue...on the highway on a bump the 20 inch tires rub on the drivers side....wheel also moves when you apply brake
awesome tutorial,i've got a 1999 xkr and it will help me to do a good maintenance saving money and enjoying with my car.....thanks a lot
Excellent explanations!!! Thank you!
Where did you buy the new bushings from, Jag dealer?
Did you need to use a ball joint press to reassemble the ball joint?
Large size g clamp works ok. But you do need to cut the sides off the top of the ball joint so that you can press against the arm
Leave the nut on loose and hit the link with a hammer and it'll pop up.surly they aren't genuine jaguar bushes.
I've done loads as a jag technician but never seen bushes like those.
Those upper wishbone washers arn't for adjusting the lower wishbone arms have acentric washers for geometary adjustment.
Those bushes are illustrated in the workshop manual but yeah mine are the heavy duty spend an entire day drilling them out kind of thing. Reckon they're usually fine too though and don't need changing as the construction is bullet proof
nice vid. shows how easy cars in general are to work on.
Just fyi, a pitman arm removal tool will work in lieu of the "special" jag tool, and won't damage the balljoint boot like a fork would.
This video is from 10 years ago. Not sure if complete control arm assemblies with ball joints and bushings were available then for a reasonable price...but you can get them now for a good price and install them yourself as easily as this procedure. They’re about $85 each (at least for my 2006 XJ8).. The local euro shop wants $2200 to replace them, albeit with OEM Jag parts... but honestly, I’ll take the $2000 savings
Thing is, the bushes themselves are 10% of the entire part cost. If you don't mind spending an entire day on the job :-)
Very good thankyou
Good video, but just some suggestions:
1. Always replace the ball joint if the arm will be already removed.
2. Use a ball joint separator tool instead of a fork. If you still must use a fork, hit the joint with a sledge hammer, that might break it free.
Hello bud"