How To Remove Broken Bolt In Recessed Hole - The Worst Of The Worst Made Easy
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- Some snapped fasteners are easy. You can weld to them, or tap them around with a punch, or slot them like a flathead screw, and they come right out.
But what if they're rusted, seized, cross threaded and even worse, broken beneath the surface. Here's the easy way to improvise a drilling jig from stuff you have laying around the shop.
#drill #tap #DIY #brokenboltremoval #howtoremoveabrokenbolt
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I really like this drill guide idea, my left hand drill bits have been helpful at removing seized fasteners, as always thank you for sharing your knowledge
Tony I've been turning wrenches for For 48 years and that has never come to my mind lol thank you very much because I will remember this till the last breath brother.peace out..
Reverse Helix drills if you have time to get them. Amazing results for removing broken fasteners.
And like Tony showed us, a guide from some kind of tube or tubes to fit into the threaded hole or over the thread.
if it's a cast iron head you can still weld a nut or a bolt to it, just gotta build it up a little. weld won't stick to cast iron but will to the bolt. that's how i got mine out while the engine was in the car, very back cylinder against the firewall.
In this example it's broken off below the surface.
@@larrybud won't make a difference, mine was broken below the surface too.
well at first it wasn't but after putting gorilla torque to it because i was pissed , it broke off below the surface 😆
Thank you UTG
Im going to go out and get a bolt thats broke off in a snowmobile crank shaft doing this.
The trick is using the quarter inch sockets as a drill guide. Very nice
Been a mechanic for 20 years, learned a lot of neat tricks over that time, but this is a new one for me! I’m going to file this in my brain because I’m sure it is going to come in handy at some point in the future! Thanks!
Boilermaker , engine builder for 30 years and yes , new to me as well .
Thanks Uncle Tony , another beauty .
I normally use a small carbide burr on the rough end of the broken stud/bolt to flatten the broken end , and yes SLOW and STEADY is the key because you only get one chance at this .
30+ years and new to me. I have special sheathed drill bits that set up like this, but I'm sure I will use this at some point. Thanks for the usefull info! Keep it coming
48 years a mechanic and I never thought of that one!
I keep a wood workers drill guide block coated in cutting oil, in the garage tool box. It's a block with a bunch of sleeved holes in it to drill holes square to a surface. There is always some casting in the way so wood shims and tape to square it up and hold it all in place.
I’m not sure this is going to help me with my tractor, but you seem like a real cool dude. 👍
another good one Uncle Tony👍 thanks
I use almost the same method if it comes to the drill but I keep some 4 flute mill bits on hand as they will start straight on a jagged bolt
Very good, UT. Truly helpful.
A carbide cone burr in the drill to grind the new home for a drill bit works also
Head $300 , long shank socket $3 , knowing what to do with it, Priceless.
Nice trick!!! Thanks
A perfect use for Pittsburgh Horror Fright sockets.
I wouldn’t use my SK sockets for something like that.
Tony, could you chuck up an endmill and flatten the jagged edge of the broken bolt?
Thanks,...it worked. patience, patience, patience. Oh,...and no beer till its done !
You should be a teacher!
Any tricks for when you've screwed up already? I have a sheared bolt on the thermostat housing of a '76 Spitfire. I went out and bought a punch set. I had it perfectly centred, but because the jagged surface, it went slightly off. Tried a bolt extractor, which didn't budge the bolt, and started to hollow out the bolt, but glaringly off-centre now. TIA
Don't forget to use a solid Cobalt drill bit.
Any tips for doing a much smaller one on a carburettor air screw?
I seen all ur videos all are great but do u have any tricks on getting out a broken water pump bolt out of block and the exterior is broken in the blot to going crazy right now
A brilliant tip U.T. 👍😎👍
Ive used reverse drill bits to remove studs below the surface ,some heat and PB will help, but what ever you do its a pain in the butt ,especially , when some body else screwed it up and you get stuck with a basket case, Like the clown that uses a chisel to pry a aluminum head off and missed a bolt
Lucky 555. Good tip.
I think you should've used a little bit bigger drill lol!
Another great tip from U.T.G.
I got a set of MATCO ones, that do exactly what you're doing with a cheap socket and electrical tape lol.
Hey Tony , is your shop a working shop or do you just use it to make videos? What is rent on a space like you have ?
If there r threads in hole I drill a hole through a bolt that threads in to the hole then when I drill it my bit is close to the broken bolt 🔩 has to go straight in.
Cool
HAHA, pooched part. I haven't call anything pooched in years. A true 70's saying
Personally I blame squirrels
Or those Trash Pandas.
@@derekbowbrick6233 total trash pandas
I am blessed to have a small metal lathe. I take a solid round as large as will fit in the area of the broken stud/bolt, face the end off flat, drill a small hole for a pilot bit of whatever size I choose and turn a short section to fit just inside the hole containing the broken stud/bolt. This setup works essentially the same as your makeshift drill guide but allows me to use a small diameter bit or even a center drill to start a pilot hole into the broken part. Once I have a pilot hole drilled sufficiently deep ( as deep as I think the end of the stud/bolt is) I can either enlarge the hole using larger drills freehand or put my shop made drill guide back in the lathe and drill the hole in it larger to fit the next size drill bit I intend to use.
Those jump cuts had me worried I was finally stroking out.
Another good solution to a difficult problem! This is a good idea even if the bolt is broke off clean and straight, because even then it's easy for the drill bit to wander off center. Kudos, bro!
Pray you don't have to do this while the engine is in the car.
Thank you Tony. Not only for all these techniques, tips and tricks you give us, but also for all the times you pump the brakes and bring folks back to reality in terms of wild automotive myths.
What I want to know is why they didn't originally use stainless bolts in the first place. They still don't use stainless bolts. A lot of cars have stainless exhausts, but not stainless bolts in the manifold or in the connections in the exhaust.
Maybe there is some metallurgic reason for it, but I don't know.
@@tarstarkusz Stainless can work harden with heat cycling. This might have something to do with it particularly with fasteners as they hold tension by stretch. I'm no expert in metallurgy - it's just an idea.
@@tarstarkusz Also very importantly Stainless Steel will Gall with most metals. Be sure to use
Anti seize with everything when going with Stainless.
I was a mechanic for 26 years. I have tip my hat to you, that was genius.
Tony must think we're out here breaking shit left and right with all these dealing with broken bolts videos. Currently I'm a Ford guy, and we all know no bolts ever break on a Ford.........that we ever admit to.
Yep bolts on Fords never break, water pump bolts on windsors always come out easy and never snap off and FE exhaust bolts always come out easy and never break or strip especially the bolts on the top of the exhaust port.
Ya, like the good old FE upper exhaust manifold bolts. I almost shit when the last one I did actually unbolted, didn't break one.
@@1958johndeere620 thanks for your comment. You give me hope!
Excellent video Tony (as usual). I’ve done that before, but it’s great to see you do such a good instructional video on the subject. The only things I would add is use a freshly sharpened drill bit (or a new one if you don’t know how to sharpen them), and use a bit of cutting oil or WD40.
Oh, by the way, your video is 4:40 in length - you are a dedicated Mopar man 😃
I made a rig like this once, while working on a large boat, at the bottom of the motor with a lot of space. The last guy used a cheap bolt to hold the starter, and it eventually snapped. The guide said remove the engine. We said nah, we will just take two elbow socket extensions and piece of steel to brace both extensions, and one person held the the socket and guided the drill bit, the second held the rig up and slowly applied pressure until the bolt spun out.
I have a Ford FE block to try that out on. The exhaust studs always break on them. Thank you.
Thank you so much for showing this procedure. God knows all of us that have it still work on cars have been there and done that with broken studs. It can go well or really be a nightmare. Again great educational video UT 👍
Stick welder and small diameter copper pipe or tubing to fit hole. Strike an arc down on broken piece until weld sticks out from block, remove copper pipe, weld washer and nut on stick out. Quench with cold water (temperature shock). loosen slowly back and forth.
Everyone seems to use nothing but a wire welder these days, I say good luck using one of those to weld inside of a small hole...
Nice to see someone actually use a corded drill, no need to mess around with batteries especially if you're near outlets with good access to the work.
In order to do this correctly, you can't use jobber drills to start a pilot hole. Jobber drills have a point. That point will force the bit to deflect You need to use a small carbide burring bit to get a "drillable" spot started. You could also use flat bottom drills to start a small hole. Preferably carbide flat bottoms. You will have to nip, or peck, drill until you get a hole started. Trust me, those drills are awesome. Probably not worth the money for a mechanic, so carbide burring bit is the way to go.
Side note: You could use an endmill to create a flat surface on the broken bolt, but you better have a rock solid way of holding that endmill. This message was brought to you by a machinist.
Great idea Tony! To expand on it a bit, use an endmill in that jig of appropriate size first to make a flat spot on the bolt. Now the drill will be less likely to walk off center.
This is why Uncle T is above and beyond all other car people on YT.
Can weld a nut if below flush,build up with weld and weld the nut on.Drilling and using an easy is a waste of time.Easy outs do not work most of the time
I've never had one work, and I've tried many times with different brands.
Great advice. Wish I had it when I was younger. Like a few years ago... nevermind, don't wanna talk about it
LMFAO 🤣🤣🤣 man I have been there,just the way Tony describes it..that is the worst of the worst.I actually repaired a block where the customer broke off an EZ out in the stud.
Drilled out a compressor shaft then one more time and broke the drill bit. New compressor time
Great idea. I never would have thought to use a 1/4 socket as a guide.
@ 2:36 he said “Put it in the hole, and push your nuts up against the surface of the head” 🤣
I always love getting crafty to solve stuff like you did here, and with my resto I come across this a lot. Great vids mate!
Great tip, Thanks Tony 👍
his drill batteries are never dead
Slow and steady wins the race. In this case literally.
Uncle Tony I like the fixture setup it's quick and it's dirty and it works. But what I found works even easier especially while you're doing it under the hood there's not much room even on the newer hemi trucks where they snap manifold bolts constantly. Did you take a Dremel with an 8-in carbide tip used for grout. Take your time and it will eat that bolt within seconds. Also works fantastic for Harding stuff like when you snap and easy out or a drill it will chew right through that. Hope that helps if you ever break an easy out or get in a real tight place. 👌
* you take a Dremel and 1/8 inch carbide bit used for grout* damn talk to text 😆😆
Great tutorial. I would not have thought to use a deep socket as the basis for a simple homemade jig. Excellent idea to keep under your hat.
Yes it works just as Uncle Tony says. drop of KROIL into "well", taped off block, created jig. Main cap bolts are 7/16-14, used a 1/4 left hand twist drill bit from Century Drill Company with a smudge of cutting paste on the tip. Went slow and minimal pressure until the kick was gone. Gradually applied pressure kept rpm low. Stub of bolt backed right out. No need for using a sprial extractor. 15 minutes soup to nuts. I used a cow magnet (any type that are strong will work) placed next to hole to minimize any metal shavings going rogue. As Cow magnets are cylinder shaped and easily fit into bolt well, paused a few times to extract the metal shavings.
To prevent drill bit wandering best to drill into the broken stud in reverse at first to create a divot and then put your drill in forward and drill into the stud
Saw another almost same fix where they made a jig with their lathe so that the inner hole was the perfect size.
Thanks for sharing this. I have a broken bolt on my old International tractor, it is jagged.
Thanks, bro... I'm not done yet, but I just used your socket/jig trick and drilled the perfect pilot for this extractor I'm using.
Uncle Tony, :new vid suggestion
can you make a vid regarding 2 barrel to 4 barrel conversion.
And the requirements for it while mostly retaining stock components/linkages? Cam on 4 barrel cars vs 2 barrel cars and what not.
Love the vids being pumped out, much appreciated.
Make a jig out of used parts - awesome. Here's another great way from YT'er sixtyfiveford titled Extract broken bolts from deep hole NEW easy way
He uses copper tubing to line the hole & protect the threads and then .........go watch his video you will be glad you did.
Nah, I've used a pencil grinder to get a pilot hole started, then drill bits work just fine.
They actually make guide plates for drilling out exhaust studs. If I did them often enough I'd definitely buy.
I was wondering about using a grinder to start the hole.
I have to agree. It would be my first move. Easier than dulling or breaking drill bits till you have an accurate hole started, and way faster.
Then again, most people don't have an old tackle box with an assortment of grinder bits inside. There was a time I didn't. When I began my first resto project I didn't know a fraction of what I do now, and I'm not bragging. Still learning all the time. Failure is my greatest teacher. That's the audience Tony is targeting, and may God bless him for it.
Thank you very much for your videos you are awesome and I love the way you explain stuff. I have a 1983 F250 XL 4X4 with a 460 and fuel tanks and a electric fuel pump in both tanks with a 650 holly. Can you make more wiring videos please. You are great. Thank God for you being here.
Another great tip & trick from Tony!
Great trick to get a square-on start. Left-handed drill bits can also be very helpful. Because they run in reverse some times they will actually unscrew the broken end right out.
Thank you for this idea, this might possibly save me! I broke off a very corroded bolt below the surface on a boat motor, very similar situation there, I'm going to try this to drill it out.
Good job. The only one I haven't heard or seen is to cut the bolt with a line and use a flat head screw driver, or even better a impact screw driver
You can use a centering punch to do the same thing and not have to rig up a guide (they sell extract kits that have guides in them as well) or if youre like me, find a bit thats half the size of the bolt and drill perpendicular to the angle that the bolt is snapped off at and only enough to make the bolt flat again and then bring it straight on with the bolt and proceed with extraction 🤷🏽♂️ no fancy tools or rigs, just skill
Great quick to the point informative video while holding my attention which is that of a hummingbird on Adderall. It helps when your enthusiasm conveys that you like doing what you do. Good deal. Thx Tony.
Great video as always and super informative and an awesome idea !! Funny thing is This has happened several times you post the video I need right after I complete the job, Then I normally say to myself oh I should have checked that more thoroughly
Working on replacing a exhaust manifold. Had 3 bolts snap off and was about to pull the head. I'm definitely going to give this a try first though. This is brilliant!
DUDE! That was exactly what I was thinking! Get out of my head! Btw I’m not a car guy but I’m learning, I prefer to figure things out on my own and double check to confirm I was right thanks my dude!
Your tips apply to more than just old cars! Thanks Uncle Tony!
Cries in 5.7 hemi exhaust manifolds
@@gerrye114 I own one of those lmao
@@rfvc600r it's not that bad, just common. The manifolds tend to warp and break a stud or two.
Remove the manifold, extract the busted stud, replace the stud, gasket, and manifold and you're good to go
@@gerrye114 I need to get a welder
@@rfvc600r usually don't need one. Some times the stud breaks off with plenty hanging out, mostly sheared level you can use an extractor.
FE heads we’re HORRIBLE for breaking the top bolt for the exhaust manifolds. Almost every set you see is drilled out for a nut and bolt.
Don’t use the term “jig”.
It’s a fixture.
I actually worked at a shop where a blcak guy made a racism complaint over the use of the word “jig” in the shop.
im not mechanically inclined, but why aren't "high traffic", frequently used bolts made from stainless steel?
Thank you for the tips. Have to extract a broken 17mm head bolt from a Subaru. Hopefully I can get it done.
Have a dodge dakota with 3.9 v6. I broke of all but two studs removing exaust. Those things are easy to twist off inside the head. Luckily only 3 were broke off below the surface. Broke a easy out off in the first one. Lol
Anyway thanks for showing this I hope there isnt a next time I put some antisieze on the replacement. studs
Like jig idea. Before drilling out I would heat broken bolt with torch till it turn cherry red then take left hand bit and try most of the time It would walk right out. Have done up to 3/8” dia with mapp gas. Larger I add The benzo Matic oxygen bottle.
Sweet! Great tip & Love your videos, keep them coming! Godspeed from The Yakima Valley in Washington STATE
You rock Uncle Tony. I’m going to try that on the intake manifold on my 300. Both EGR bolts broke off. One is below the surface.
Im all about low buck... But having a rack of those ( i dont remember their correct name ) center punches in all the bolt sizes has saved many a day by ensuring i had a perfect starting point. An old school mechanic gave them to me eons ago, so no idea what they cost, but Im pretty sure theyre worth it!!👍
Ha Ha you call that tough? How about all of the above PLUS it's up against the inner fender of an '02 minivan. Look at all the elbow room you've got, Uncle Tony.
Been a machinist and mechanic for 30 years and have taken out hundreds of broken bollts , easy outs, etc. That was good technic, there are many, but that big drill motor you used was overkill. Lol. Better to big than ti small
Damn. I needed this last weekend.
Thanks for this outstanding tip Tony. Dodge head, return tube bracket bolt. sigh
Great stuff UT! I just broke a starter bolt up inside my block. I almost gave up because its up on jack stands and a tight go because of headers.
I have a question about Shrinkage , I am putting an engine together in an unheated garage here in southern Michigan and everything is below freezing. How much error in clearances might I see in block , crankshaft, bearing and cap when checked with plastigauge ?
I love these videos Tony! This is where experience shows.
I picked up a set of 1/8" carbides. I used them to remove about 12 broken exhaust manifold studs in chasis on a Trion v10.
Thank you thank you thank you. If the broken bolt is in a tight space sometimes using your idea with a right angle drill will put you in a space you could not otherwise access. I have an old battery powered drill I keep around solely for these uses.
Thanks. Im that someone saved a ton of aggravation. I have new short tube headers to install on my 69 satelite. And i see one broken stud on tha driverside manifold. I put off doing it until i have all day to drill and cuss.
Ya have to do your homework when buying bolt extraction kits too. Some are just plain trash and wind up making matters worse