It actually breaks my heart that I don’t know an amazing thorough mechanic like you. Such an amazing job and I really value how much love you put into this build! 🙏🏼
I'm new to your channel literally just found it this past Friday. Great series, watched all 8 of them from start to finish, completed the tear down on my 4.7 hopefully starting the rebuild soon. Thanks again for this.
Thanks Brian for this video. Thanks to you rebuilding my 4.7! My truck is almost identical to the one in this video red and everything! 315,000 and no major problems just rebuilding it to freshen it up. No dropped a valve seats. Lol
This series was great. Rebuilt my 2008 commander with a 4.7l when it dropped the valve seat because the water pump failed and it overheated 🥵 , very similar but beware if you are doing a 2006 or newer 4.7 there are differences in the heads. The newer 4.7 will be a vin code N on your vehicles vin 8th digit. Make sure you order the right rebuild kit so you don’t end up like me waiting on a new kit to arrive when you have it ready to assemble. The heads have 2 spark plugs per cylinder on the newer 4.7, they use a different gasket set, different timing set, different piston, different connecting rod and some other things are different. They are similar enough this series will still apply to the rebuild and save you lots of headache. Thanks Brian!
That’s how you make a G-D engine rebuild video (series)! Very complete, you’re an ASE Cert. tech and you didn’t spew conjecture and rhetoric that some techs seem to, most being mis-information. I needed some brush-up since I need swap a 4.7 standard output for a High Output on a Grand Cherokee. #Subscribed&Liked
That's the type of Mechanic we needed overhead in New York man you did a great job I'll be seeing 👀 How you managed all the parts and clean work explanation step by step I wish to find someone to replace my engine of my Dodge Durango
I am following you to the Nth degree. I used to have an engine shop17 years ago. I got some heads at "Cific heads" for 388 each. Then put some rock auto valves in it. I also ported the exhaust and blended the machine step on the intake. Crank .010 and pistons hypertectic .020 Putting in the chains. Watched your video 3 times. I am 63 so my mind is not like it was... I ordered some new cams to go with the valves, lifters, rockers and seals. Its gonna haul ass
I still put rtv on the timing cover. Just picked up a mint white 2003 dakota with blown motor for 2 grand. I have two core motors to build and probably 2 sets of good heads. Just installed new cams from ebay on the current GC build. Then again, I was able to buy CIFIc heads for $318 plus shipping. With new heads at that cost, you dont ahve to worry about the staking bullshit or seats coming out. Gotta tear a block down and send it and the crank to the machine shop. This time I will use .002 .010 under with locating tabs. I did not like the no tang engine tech bearings. Then again, I will bore gauge this next build and see if new stock pistons will fit good enough for a dingleberry hone. German steel lasts a long time, and sometimes the bores are perfect at 200,000 miles. But I will still just have everything machined...
Gotta heat up the parts washer and reclean the valve covers so I can paint them up pretty. But first, I will tear the next core down so I dont waste electricity. I pressure wash the stuff in the cabinet after cleaning.
Great job Brother!! Im just having a hard time getting over seeing that Flim Fram filter lol. I'm sure I will get over it lol When you was pullin out, Im thinkin, "light em up!!" You didnt dissapoint
TwiZ I couldn't help myself Lol. that Fram filter is just the break-in filter I got a genuine Mopar after I drive a hundred miles I'm going to change the oil and filter.
Amazing video, thank you so much. Just one question. I’m not sure if I missed it or not. Did you say what the clearance was for the pistions to the wall or the ring gab?? Thank you!!!
By far the best video series I've seen. You did a great job with explaining almost everything. Wasn't sure if I should get a used motor or rebuild and this series gives me all the confidence to do the rebuild on my 06 ram jasper. Thanks for taking the time to explain. Do you know if there is anything different about the jasper than the oem 4.7 that cam in it?God bless
If I can ask for for help on the reassembly kits that you use the kits with all the gaskets bolts and seals that I will need to replace all the old ones please send me a link where I can purchase these items thank you sir much respect and thanks for you're professionalism and craft...
Dude, that is the best instructional video I have ever come across. You need to be proud of yourself. However, you left out the harness job. WTF? Naaa just kidding...
Brian, you show the torque spec for the bolts that hold the flywheel to the engine is 45 ft lbs. What about the 4 bolts that hold the flywheel to the torque converter? Thanks for the help once again. Awesome videos.
The spec for the Torque converter to Driveplate bolts is 270 in.-lbs. or about 23 ft.-lbs. Use a little bit of thread locker. Also, the spec for the Driveplate to crankshaft bolts is 55 ft.-lbs. (not 45 as stated in the video).
GREAT Job Brian916 [: awesome :] I finished my rebuild about 18 months ago - the engine is still on the stand. My concern is that I did not use lock-tight on the front of the engine bolts i.e., timing chain etc. I did use new bolts for the heads, & connecting rods, just wondering if I should re-do the front bolts using the lock-tight while it is still out? Everything is torqued to spec's. Any thoughts/suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thx!
Brian, I'm finally ready to drop mine back in. Had to wait on a couple of parts that I decided to replace while it was out. I commented on a couple of your other videos in this series. My question is, it looks like you used the bolts that go into the top - I think they are the knock sensors - to attach the chain to. Is that correct? Seems like it wouldn't hold that much weight. When I took it out, I had already pulled the heads, so i used a couple of head bolts and the bolt at the top of the timing chain cover. Once again, great job man!
Its fine to chain it up there the bolt that fit the knock sensor holes are big enough to hold. The key is to run the bolts all the way in and use washers to keep the bolt from going through the chain!
Bryan916 thank you and thanks for the quick response. Working on it now. By the way, I couldn’t find silicon paste. Would it be okay to use a little Assembly Lube instead for the part where you prepped the bell housing?
I usually prime it. But technically you don't have to if you use a sufficient amount of assembly Lube. But because an engine rebuild is a big job, time labor and money. Might as well prime it to be on the safe side!
The torque converter bolts aren't threading! I dropped and picked up the engine out of the bay 4 times, cleaned/sanded the torque converter and flywheel, why are the stock bolts not catching? I tightened the bell housing bolts, it looks flush. Can I just buy slightly longer bolts for the torque converter?
Should thread in. I just did mine week ago. Maybe the threads are stripped out on torque converter. Or you have flywheel installed wrong. Or engine isnt installed flush. The engine has 2 dowel pins make they in.
Hey man. I’m doing this 4.7 rebuild for the first time. I was wondering if you can help me with a problem I’m having. I got it all back in and I can’t seem to find where the ground strap from the ECM connects to. The only place I think makes sense is to connect the ecm ground with the ground straps behind the passenger side head. Is that correct? Will it cause a problem to connect the ecm ground with the head to body ground on this engine? I am working on a 2008 Jeep commander with a 4.7. Also, I would like to send you a tip as these videos were very helpful. Do you have another way of doing it aside from PayPal? PayPal banned me for life for something unrelated.
Outlaw Diesel Use a test light to verify you have a good ground then ground it. It really shouldn't matter where its grounded as long as it is a cool and clean ground. If you cant send a tip via PayPal don't worry about it Brother I do appreciate it though!
Hey Bryan916, my 05 4.7 is losing about a quart of coolant about every 1000 miles and the #1 plug keeps cracking on the combustion side and I get a check engine light that indicates a #1 misfire. I guess that confirms I have a bad/fatigued head gasket? Never overheated however. Truck only has 110,000. Is this a typical/common sign of head gasket failure?
I would pull the number one spark plug out while pressure testing the radiator and look inside the cylinder with a good flashlight and see if coolant is dripping inside the cylinder. Or if the number one piston is a lot cleaner than the other Pistons then that's would be an obvious sign.
It actually breaks my heart that I don’t know an amazing thorough mechanic like you. Such an amazing job and I really value how much love you put into this build! 🙏🏼
Wow, thank you!
@@Bryan916 I mean it, you seem like a solid guy. Keep up the great work! God Bless! 🙏🏼
I'm new to your channel literally just found it this past Friday. Great series, watched all 8 of them from start to finish, completed the tear down on my 4.7 hopefully starting the rebuild soon. Thanks again for this.
I have big respect for your work. Good teardown and assembly instructions. Good job!!!
Thanks Brian for this video. Thanks to you rebuilding my 4.7! My truck is almost identical to the one in this video red and everything! 315,000 and no major problems just rebuilding it to freshen it up. No dropped a valve seats. Lol
Makes me happy to know that I didn't make this video in vain and its actually helping people. Right on Rich stay safe out there Brother!
This series was great. Rebuilt my 2008 commander with a 4.7l when it dropped the valve seat because the water pump failed and it overheated 🥵 , very similar but beware if you are doing a 2006 or newer 4.7 there are differences in the heads. The newer 4.7 will be a vin code N on your vehicles vin 8th digit. Make sure you order the right rebuild kit so you don’t end up like me waiting on a new kit to arrive when you have it ready to assemble. The heads have 2 spark plugs per cylinder on the newer 4.7, they use a different gasket set, different timing set, different piston, different connecting rod and some other things are different. They are similar enough this series will still apply to the rebuild and save you lots of headache. Thanks Brian!
Hi my friend, Great video, I was looking for something like this, never been in one of these , and i got it to Do ! Thanks again !
That’s how you make a G-D engine rebuild video (series)!
Very complete, you’re an ASE Cert. tech and you didn’t spew conjecture and rhetoric that some techs seem to, most being mis-information.
I needed some brush-up since I need swap a 4.7 standard output for a High Output on a Grand Cherokee.
#Subscribed&Liked
Thanks Brother Much Appreciated!
@@Bryan916 Do you recommend any particular aftermarket timing chain set brand for the 4.7 ? Seen different brands on rock auto .
I watched all 8 of your videos. I ready to do my 4.7. Thank you so much for a perfect series on rebuilding this engine.
how did it go?
@@johnpope8949I don't even remember watching the videos. I didn't begin to rebuild my 4.7. It's still running perfectly.
Great Video! Very helpful information. I'm currently rebuilding my 4.7 and your thorough videos are a blessing!
That's the type of Mechanic we needed overhead in New York man you did a great job I'll be seeing 👀 How you managed all the parts and clean work explanation step by step I wish to find someone to replace my engine of my Dodge Durango
Thank's Bryan! Awesome Job !
Thank you so much I apreaciate this video ! I’m a tech but never got around Doing one of these ... thank you I’m tearing mine down this week .
that is a great series, thank you!
Great video! Really nice to see my engine opened up.
I am following you to the Nth degree. I used to have an engine shop17 years ago. I got some heads at "Cific heads" for 388 each. Then put some rock auto valves in it. I also ported the exhaust and blended the machine step on the intake. Crank .010 and pistons hypertectic .020 Putting in the chains. Watched your video 3 times. I am 63 so my mind is not like it was... I ordered some new cams to go with the valves, lifters, rockers and seals. Its gonna haul ass
Bro you the man...job well done. Wow!!!
Nice work man! The amount of money you saved me !
Glad I could help
We have 3 Dodge Durangos 4.7, Love them! How ever may be rebuilding 1 soon, Your videos were very helpful. Thanks for sharing!
It would be so fun to do a rebuild on my 4.7. Wish I had the tools, the space, and the money! Oh… and your degree of expertise!
This was awesome thank you !!!
Merci beaucoup...MASTER !🙏
I still put rtv on the timing cover. Just picked up a mint white 2003 dakota with blown motor for 2 grand. I have two core motors to build and probably 2 sets of good heads. Just installed new cams from ebay on the current GC build. Then again, I was able to buy CIFIc heads for $318 plus shipping. With new heads at that cost, you dont ahve to worry about the staking bullshit or seats coming out. Gotta tear a block down and send it and the crank to the machine shop. This time I will use .002 .010 under with locating tabs. I did not like the no tang engine tech bearings. Then again, I will bore gauge this next build and see if new stock pistons will fit good enough for a dingleberry hone. German steel lasts a long time, and sometimes the bores are perfect at 200,000 miles. But I will still just have everything machined...
Very good job 👌👍👍👍 happy just to see you do it very good quality work
that was nice of you, thanks bro!
Gotta heat up the parts washer and reclean the valve covers so I can paint them up pretty. But first, I will tear the next core down so I dont waste electricity. I pressure wash the stuff in the cabinet after cleaning.
Great work B.
New subscriber, great job on that Dodge, love the step by step process, watch the video from start to finish. Can't wait for more.
Awesome job brother I'm doing the same job
Great job Brother!! Im just having a hard time getting over seeing that Flim Fram filter lol. I'm sure I will get over it lol
When you was pullin out, Im thinkin, "light em up!!" You didnt dissapoint
TwiZ I couldn't help myself Lol. that Fram filter is just the break-in filter I got a genuine Mopar after I drive a hundred miles I'm going to change the oil and filter.
Thank you..now I can sleep tonight...lol. I kinda figured that was your plan, I know thats what I do on break-ins
Thanx Bryan this was cool series .Thank you May be one day ur going to get me Duramax...
ola, sou do brasil seus videos estao me encorajando para montagem do meu 4.7 jeep 99, DEUS LHE ABENÇOE BRYAN EM NOME DE CRISTO.
God Bless you Brother!
no si ablas espanol pero eres profecional me as ayudado mucho. thancks for your worck yur time doing that thancks
Amazing video, thank you so much. Just one question. I’m not sure if I missed it or not. Did you say what the clearance was for the pistions to the wall or the ring gab?? Thank you!!!
By far the best video series I've seen. You did a great job with explaining almost everything. Wasn't sure if I should get a used motor or rebuild and this series gives me all the confidence to do the rebuild on my 06 ram jasper. Thanks for taking the time to explain. Do you know if there is anything different about the jasper than the oem 4.7 that cam in it?God bless
Jasper engines and Transmission are just a basic rebuild with decent parts and a good warranty!
Thanks Bryan!
Great job too bad you're on the west coast I need a engine rebuild
If I can ask for for help on the reassembly kits that you use the kits with all the gaskets bolts and seals that I will need to replace all the old ones please send me a link where I can purchase these items thank you sir much respect and thanks for you're professionalism and craft...
I would like to know what type of impact drill and also what type of electric socket wrench you are using
Dude, that is the best instructional video I have ever come across. You need to be proud of yourself. However, you left out the harness job. WTF? Naaa just kidding...
Thanks Stephan!
Brian, you show the torque spec for the bolts that hold the flywheel to the engine is 45 ft lbs. What about the 4 bolts that hold the flywheel to the torque converter? Thanks for the help once again. Awesome videos.
The spec for the Torque converter to Driveplate bolts is 270 in.-lbs. or about 23 ft.-lbs. Use a little bit of thread locker.
Also, the spec for the Driveplate to crankshaft bolts is 55 ft.-lbs. (not 45 as stated in the video).
GREAT Job Brian916 [: awesome :] I finished my rebuild about 18 months ago - the engine is still on the stand. My concern is that I did not use lock-tight on the front of the engine bolts i.e., timing chain etc. I did use new bolts for the heads, & connecting rods, just wondering if I should re-do the front bolts using the lock-tight while it is still out? Everything is torqued to spec's. Any thoughts/suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thx!
No need, If tis torqued to spec you should be fine!
Bryan do the 4.7 for the jeep grand cherokee limited , have thoes dust covers for the bellhousing and motor ?
Is it every 4.7 thay the power steering pump whines so loud. I’ve replaced mine 2 times thinking it’s worn out. But still sounds the same lol
Brian, I'm finally ready to drop mine back in. Had to wait on a couple of parts that I decided to replace while it was out. I commented on a couple of your other videos in this series. My question is, it looks like you used the bolts that go into the top - I think they are the knock sensors - to attach the chain to. Is that correct? Seems like it wouldn't hold that much weight. When I took it out, I had already pulled the heads, so i used a couple of head bolts and the bolt at the top of the timing chain cover. Once again, great job man!
Its fine to chain it up there the bolt that fit the knock sensor holes are big enough to hold. The key is to run the bolts all the way in and use washers to keep the bolt from going through the chain!
Bryan916 thank you and thanks for the quick response. Working on it now. By the way, I couldn’t find silicon paste. Would it be okay to use a little Assembly Lube instead for the part where you prepped the bell housing?
@@davidroquemore2775 Assembly lube is a little different just use a very small amount or none at all!
thats a shit load of work ....well done ..............................i would have changed the torque converter seal
I didn't even think about changing that seal, your right that would have been a good time to do it for sure!
Hey Bryan is it cheaper to rebuild this motor my self or buy a reman for $2500
Did you oil prime the engine prior to the first start or can you simply just start it up?? Just finished my 4.7 rebuild..
I usually prime it. But technically you don't have to if you use a sufficient amount of assembly Lube. But because an engine rebuild is a big job, time labor and money. Might as well prime it to be on the safe side!
Olá, Posso pegar algumas informações com você?
Sacto was once a nice city
The torque converter bolts aren't threading! I dropped and picked up the engine out of the bay 4 times, cleaned/sanded the torque converter and flywheel, why are the stock bolts not catching? I tightened the bell housing bolts, it looks flush. Can I just buy slightly longer bolts for the torque converter?
In this case, you gotta get something in there so go for it, just make sure the bolts are not too long or it will rub!
Should thread in. I just did mine week ago. Maybe the threads are stripped out on torque converter. Or you have flywheel installed wrong. Or engine isnt installed flush. The engine has 2 dowel pins make they in.
Hey man. I’m doing this 4.7 rebuild for the first time. I was wondering if you can help me with a problem I’m having. I got it all back in and I can’t seem to find where the ground strap from the ECM connects to. The only place I think makes sense is to connect the ecm ground with the ground straps behind the passenger side head. Is that correct? Will it cause a problem to connect the ecm ground with the head to body ground on this engine? I am working on a 2008 Jeep commander with a 4.7. Also, I would like to send you a tip as these videos were very helpful. Do you have another way of doing it aside from PayPal? PayPal banned me for life for something unrelated.
Outlaw Diesel Use a test light to verify you have a good ground then ground it.
It really shouldn't matter where its grounded as long as it is a cool and clean ground.
If you cant send a tip via PayPal don't worry about it Brother I do appreciate it though!
How much for a rebuild like this
Hey Bryan916, my 05 4.7 is losing about a quart of coolant about every 1000 miles and the #1 plug keeps cracking on the combustion side and I get a check engine light that indicates a #1 misfire. I guess that confirms I have a bad/fatigued head gasket? Never overheated however. Truck only has 110,000.
Is this a typical/common sign of head gasket failure?
I would pull the number one spark plug out while pressure testing the radiator and look inside the cylinder with a good flashlight and see if coolant is dripping inside the cylinder. Or if the number one piston is a lot cleaner than the other Pistons then that's would be an obvious sign.
What's up b is that a 4.7magnum I just redid the ram I just bought
Yeah The 4.7 Powertech/ Magnum
That's what's up I'm breaking mine in now I got a video on it check it out
Will Do!
What was that that you put on the rear main seal before you hammered it in?
Permatex 20539 Indian Head
Great video....You can do my engine rebuild any time....
dont forget to put those ground straps on the back of the heads BEFORE the engine is already in lmao. ask me why..............................
Johny Harbinger how about that oil pan hahahaha
Why what happens if you don't put ground strap on the heads?where do they go ?from back of heads to firewall?