Running off on a tangent and not getting to the point quickly really helps guys like me to wrap my head around the process. Thanks for being so thorough. Keep up the great work!
I just stumbled on this two part video and have never worked on an RV furnace before, but Im now informed enough to troubleshoot them. With that being said, Im a certified electrician and can say this video is for the advanced DIYer.
As a certified electrician you're going to love these too... I was an industrial automation systems engineer for over three decades. So I bring some of that to my RV repair videos. ruclips.net/video/mk3lDwU61o4/видео.htmlsi=OEmUmqyYTJZQqeD5 ruclips.net/video/MYrh8gdM7Xs/видео.htmlsi=cXGc6GsAudka9oHn ruclips.net/video/kSuYFfqjtrY/видео.htmlsi=ckq2yM5L4CgOg3Xg
Love it. Do not get to the point quickly. Learning about how it works and where the currents, resistance, and voltages are is what makes these videos so great. We were up in your neck of the woods at Lake Cushman for a week last summer. Beautiful part of the country! Everywhere is beautiful when you live in Chicago. Thank you for your videos and Patreon
Thank you so much...I believe that my electrode is the problem based on this video. I like that you take the time to go through all the steps because often vidoes assume we know all the steps and so those steps are not mentioned. I like all the details especially when the thoery of how something works is explained to something we can relate to easy enough.
Thanks again Darren! Your very thorough furnace videos have saved me a lot of money. I was able to service both SF-35's in my RV and get them working after watching several of your videos. Keep the details coming. Those who are impatient can go elsewhere. Semper Fi.
Thank you very much for a thoroughly informative video. To many times these videos are put out by people that dont really know what they are doing but you obviously know your stuff.
Hey Darren great stuff here and thank you so much. I liked your comments about those who wanted a 5 minute fix. I kinda like the slow repetative way you do this, as my brain also needs a way to slowly process the information to eliminate and or exclude or include the relevant points that I have encountered and find the actual root cause of the problem. I am also an engineer my whole life and trouble shooting is my forte. I never let a problem beat me for too long either. I have a Winnebago Chieftain from 2001 (we love it very much though as the age suggests we get one or two things to look into now and again) imported into the UK and now it is with my wife and I in Italy. She feels the cold all the time hence why I have just done about 2 straight hours of furnace videos with you, to try to fathom why we get a limited amount of heat inside the motorhome and shed loads of heat blown out into the night air...!!! I guess my reasoning is that the burner/furnace needs to come out as there must be a blockage somewhere after the burner and before the ventilation tubes in the floor? There was lots of fluff and debris (possibly from mice) under the fridge and in the electric supply box/panel. (So I guessed that they had made a home in here whilst stored by the previous owner..) Also the fan only has one speed, so I don't know if that is normal. I am sure ours is this SF35 from the video here. Anyhow keep up the great work and helpful videos and I'll sure be checking out more soon. Much love and peace, Peaceful Warrior.
Thank you Darren really enjoy watching your videos. I’m not a tech, but I understand my furnace and hot water heater 29:13 a little bit now and not afraid to tackle some of them so keep the videos coming love them.
Got it... thanks Darren. I chased the 12V and kept going as all was well until I opened the burn chamber, after I found the gas solenoids were fine, only to discover that the electrode was in full contact with the burner assembly, thus I wasn't getting an spark for ignition. Even still, it let me do a much needed full checkup of the furnace. She's now fully assembled, and fires up like a champ! Ready for what winter we have in TX!!
Darren Love the ramblings (There's a lot of great (proprietary) info sometimes but most hard work EXPERIENCE! Great video keep up the OUTSTANDING easy to follow, working man's intellect! Those that don't have the time or mind - pay us the big bucks to be kind!
I appreciate your tangents. The more details the better 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻. I’ve learned a ton and work on my own furnace now and feel more confident. Thank you. Atwood 8531-IV.
Keep your content the same. If it's something I know, I can advance 10 seconds at a time. Or rewind and re-watch. Great video, thanks. I'm glad I'm not the only one with the "squirrel" .... moments.
I like the long detailed videos myself because I like to actually learn how that particular unit functions. That way I can diagnose a different problem later. My furnace is randomly not lighting, the igniter is working but the burner is not putting out the gas. My Tank Propane Valve is on a recall so I'm waiting on that first. Thank you very much Darren!!!
Great job Darren, you ramble just enough. You operated like a surgeon on this heater (aka Dr Brown), maybe next week you explain how a flux capacitor works! -Marty 😁 (nice editing too)
As a recent graduate from the NRVTA, I find your videos very informative. I am soon to start my own mobile business. I was wondering, if you had a list of the most common parts that you carry. Just starting out, I don't want a semi load of parts inventory (though, it would be nice). Just stuff like control boards, sail switches, capacitors, wiring harnesses and so on. I appreciate what you're doing and keep living the dream.
Hey man I’m considering going to NRVTA. Do you think you learn enough from the school to go straight into business or do you think going to work for dealership to gain some experience is necessary??
@@Hugo-Hernandez practical experience is the best experience...I would take hands on classes then work at a dealership that is progressive in teaching..everything will tie itself together at that point..then you'll" kill it" when u go out in ur own .
Happy Holidays Darren I hope all the ICE is gone in our area. I love learning, I'm retired and 67 years old. I did not care for repairing jobs that would take several hours to fix, but some of the smaller ones that could save me lots of money. Seems all our government knows is bowing money . Its both parties. This inflation is killing us all. Ok back to the point Thanks for showing us so that we can save a few dollars now and then ! God Bless you because you are a good man !
Thanks Darren, I'm getting together my spare parts for my furnace, to have on hand when traveling across the country, if I'm ever in your neck of the woods, I'll look you up and say Hi.
Timely, and thank you! Having an issue with my sSF-20 where I smell gas, it lights momentarily then goes out. The other SF-20 furnace in my coach works fine, as do all the other propane fed devices, so I know propane flow is good. Will also check the orifice while in there, but ordering the electrode preemptively. Thank you SO much!
A technicality, but when you talk about flame rectification, it is not milliamps, but microamps. Usually 1-4 microamps. As you noted, position of the ignition electrode is critical for this small current to be generated by the flame and be carried back to the control board.
Very good series. What are some causes of short cycling after a long run bringing the camper up to temp? Suburban SF35F Dometic CCC 5 button t stat . Everything seems ok - Purge/ignite/burn/ burner off/post purge but the cycle repeats on a 10 -12 minuet cycle.
I have a Tahoe 27 foot travel trailer. It has a suburban heater in it when I go to the thermostat and Select heat air is starting to blow out of the ceiling cooling system and never switches over to heat. What parts would you suspect I need to replace thank you.JG
Enjoy them. The flame is conductive because the heat creates ion of the combustion products and the air. Carbon itself is not involved. Also did you check the ignitor for an intermediate connection between the metal electrode and the high voltage wire? Most likely it is in some sort of a crimp connection to the wire inside the ceramic. Ohm meter and wiggle.
Agree - a simple continuity check would be advisable before assuming a ‘wiggly’ electrode is the problem… (of course you’d replace the electrode anyway😎)
I like that your videos are detailed. Keep up the great videos. I have a question also. My furnace or duct work makes a popping or cracking sound after the furnace comes on and then again after it shuts down. What do I need to look for to fix that?
Thank you so much. It looks like the atwoods / dometic are a whole lot easier to work with. I just did a furnace job a couple of days ago (my first job) where customer complained is that furnace would not ignite. We had the ticking and the LP smell. Boosted the flow on the LP regulator as it was only reading 8 1/2 wc and then went into burner assembly to check gap. Electrode was actually touching the burner. Once the gap was reset it lit right up. My question to you is is there a way to increase the actual air temperature coming out of the vents? This was one of his questions to me and I don't have an answer.
I am having problems with my gas valve sylonoides not firing. The only I way I could get was a direct hot and ground. My motor burned out and when reassembled there was a hot jumper and a hot wire that connected the 2 hot leads. There is the same jumper on the ground but no main ground coming from circuit board. A n y ideas
Amazing videos, If the heater is crack like you said on the molding tubing can you just fix the crack with jb weld or do you have to replace the whole furnace?
I have an Atwood/Dometic model: AFMD30141. I changed the electrode/flame sensor, sail switch, circuit board. The air intake was clean, no obstructions, the gas appliances, fridge , stove and ‘hot water on demand’ work fine. When turned on (thermostat), the blower works and it goes through its start up cycle. Then it ignites and runs for 2 or 3 seconds and stops, then again same thing, starts and stops. If I let it go for 20 to 30 attempts like that then it starts and stay on, depending how cold is the outside temperature. What I did the last 2 times with the first try, I blew hot air with an hair blower directly on the gas valve. The. When I did that it started good and stayed on. Could the LP valve body be the problem?
Is there anywhere to get board diagrams? Why get $100 board when I can get a $2 cap and fix it myself. Mine works fine but voltage flickers on board sometimes. Looks like a bad leg on a cap but can’t read the numbers. Looks like a 630v 0.022uf cap. Thanks for any help.
Woohoo I made it to the end of The Furnace Fault Road! Issue: my furnace stopped turning on. No fan. Heatpump and AC still worked. Is it the fanmotor? I checked the thermostat 12v fuse. (It is inside the furnace cabinet, above my furnace, under my fridge.) It looked good. I checked the main furnace fuse, it looked good. I checked the control fuse, it looked good. Volt meter showed 12v inside the furnace. I shorted the thermostat wires blue wires in the furnace- furnace came on. Ok not the furnace. Went on the roof, everything on the DuoTherm Heatpump control board looked good, 12v board fuse good. Back inside, I Installed a temporary mechanical thermostat wired directly to the furnace- the furnace began working normally with that thermostat. So it definitely wasn't the furnace fan motor or anything else inside the furnace. So next plan.... bought a fancy new microair thermostat. Did not fix it. Cleaned the control cable at the thermostat and went up on the roof- cleaned the thermostat phone jacks, listened to the board while I turned on the thermostat (which I could now control remotely with the microair easytouch) I heard the relay click every time I turned it on or off. I checked continuity at the blue wires when the relay closed- perfect. I checked voltage of the blue wires... nothing. Hmm, aren't those supposed to be 12v? Where does the 12v feed from? Maybe the wire down to the furnace has corroded connectors or a short. Ok next plan was to run the temporary T-stat wire directly from roof ac down to the furnace. So back down at the furnace, getting ready to install the wire, I decided to pull the fuse on 12v main thermostat wire again. Fuse still looks good...wait, lets continuity check that fuse....BINGO! fuse was dead. Replaced the fuse and the furnace immediately started up like NBD. Lesson learned. That hurt a bit! Of course now I'm addicted to that new microair thermostat and don't want to return it even though my 5 button dometic control is perfectly fine lol.
Have a surburban sf30fq that runs all day but shouts down in middle of night when 40 degrees or less. Gets locked out. Changed sail and high limit. Trying alt propane source tonight. Any thoughts appreciated. Its a 2023 twilight, dealer cant figure out.
You're on the right track with a separate propane source. Make sure the alt source is a known good propane source. It's possible that your propane cylinder you're using was not properly purged and there may be some air in the cylinder.
@@MyRVWorks ran all night using alt source. Believe propane system is problem. Is having 20lb cylinders a factor? Looked at other forums. Should I change the regulator to a low pressure so it opens more . Is any brand regulator best. They talk about purging and methanol, not sure how to do that. Thanks for all advice, your helping me so much.
If it ran using a known good propane source then the issue is not going to be your regulator or your fittings to the coach. The issue seems to be the propane in the cylinder is contaminated. The only thing that's supposed to be in a propane cylinder is propane... If the cylinder was not purged properly then there may be some air or moisture in the cylinder as well. That would be a contaminant and would cause your propane appliances to not function properly. If you take your troubled cylinder to a reputable filling station you can ask them if they can properly purge the cylinder. If they act like they have no idea what that means, take it to another place. The purging procedure involves filling the cylinder with propane vapor instead of a propane liquid. Then letting that vapor escape out of the cylinder and then repeating the process a few times. If they're not doing that procedure, then they're not purging the cylinder properly.
@@MyRVWorks Upgraded to 30lb tanks, now its cold outside, tested again, system shut down. Using alt propane source again shut down in middle of night. Has new sail switch and temp limit. Look at control board? Thanks for advice
At what approximate temperature should the air coming out of the floor vent be for the heater? What could cause little to no heat when the fan is on and furnace is lit?
In this case, how difficult, time wise, was the uninstall/reinstall? I was wondering if it might pay to go ahead and install a new board prophylactically? Thanks for the great videos!
My furnace heats good then all of a sudden it shuts down like it's not calling for heat. I can immediately turn tstat off then back on and it will run another 10 15 min. Then shut off. What does this sound like?
Anybody with 2 Fluke clamp meters and builds his own test leads is ok with me. The crowsfoot is what makes the job though. Your not getting the fitting loose otherwise. 🤨😁
Because it was Florida.... They have as many "rv technicians" as they do "lawn care specialists" rarely do either have any certifications or insurance... They do have a truck and a business card!
Love your videos! Question, I watch you and some other you tubers and I often scratch my head. Your working on an old suburban here. Why not just buy a whole new unit and just swap it out. At about $700 bucks on amazon (Model dependent) it would seem your labor alone costs would be higher, than just getting a brand new unit for the customer and cheaper! Thoughts? I just had the brakes replace on my truck, I asked about turning the rotors, most shops don’t do that anymore, Cheaper just to replace. Same here I would think.
Running off on a tangent and not getting to the point quickly really helps guys like me to wrap my head around the process. Thanks for being so thorough. Keep up the great work!
I just stumbled on this two part video and have never worked on an RV furnace before, but Im now informed enough to troubleshoot them. With that being said, Im a certified electrician and can say this video is for the advanced DIYer.
As a certified electrician you're going to love these too... I was an industrial automation systems engineer for over three decades. So I bring some of that to my RV repair videos.
ruclips.net/video/mk3lDwU61o4/видео.htmlsi=OEmUmqyYTJZQqeD5
ruclips.net/video/MYrh8gdM7Xs/видео.htmlsi=cXGc6GsAudka9oHn
ruclips.net/video/kSuYFfqjtrY/видео.htmlsi=ckq2yM5L4CgOg3Xg
Love it. Do not get to the point quickly. Learning about how it works and where the currents, resistance, and voltages are is what makes these videos so great. We were up in your neck of the woods at Lake Cushman for a week last summer. Beautiful part of the country! Everywhere is beautiful when you live in Chicago. Thank you for your videos and Patreon
Thank you so much...I believe that my electrode is the problem based on this video. I like that you take the time to go through all the steps because often vidoes assume we know all the steps and so those steps are not mentioned. I like all the details especially when the thoery of how something works is explained to something we can relate to easy enough.
Thank you Darrin for what you are doing. You have a great way of teaching and are very giving of your knowledge.
Thanks again Darren! Your very thorough furnace videos have saved me a lot of money. I was able to service both SF-35's in my RV and get them working after watching several of your videos. Keep the details coming. Those who are impatient can go elsewhere. Semper Fi.
Thank you very much for a thoroughly informative video. To many times these videos are put out by people that dont really know what they are doing but you obviously know your stuff.
You're very welcome!
I love watching your how to videos. The level of knowledge shared is much appreciated.
Hey Darren great stuff here and thank you so much. I liked your comments about those who wanted a 5 minute fix. I kinda like the slow repetative way you do this, as my brain also needs a way to slowly process the information to eliminate and or exclude or include the relevant points that I have encountered and find the actual root cause of the problem. I am also an engineer my whole life and trouble shooting is my forte. I never let a problem beat me for too long either.
I have a Winnebago Chieftain from 2001 (we love it very much though as the age suggests we get one or two things to look into now and again) imported into the UK and now it is with my wife and I in Italy. She feels the cold all the time hence why I have just done about 2 straight hours of furnace videos with you, to try to fathom why we get a limited amount of heat inside the motorhome and shed loads of heat blown out into the night air...!!! I guess my reasoning is that the burner/furnace needs to come out as there must be a blockage somewhere after the burner and before the ventilation tubes in the floor? There was lots of fluff and debris (possibly from mice) under the fridge and in the electric supply box/panel. (So I guessed that they had made a home in here whilst stored by the previous owner..)
Also the fan only has one speed, so I don't know if that is normal. I am sure ours is this SF35 from the video here.
Anyhow keep up the great work and helpful videos and I'll sure be checking out more soon.
Much love and peace,
Peaceful Warrior.
I’m restoring a old motor home and your videos are watched every day. Thank you Darren,and keep them coming!!!👍👍👍👍
Thank you Darren really enjoy watching your videos. I’m not a tech, but I understand my furnace and hot water heater 29:13 a little bit now and not afraid to tackle some of them so keep the videos coming love them.
Got it... thanks Darren. I chased the 12V and kept going as all was well until I opened the burn chamber, after I found the gas solenoids were fine, only to discover that the electrode was in full contact with the burner assembly, thus I wasn't getting an spark for ignition. Even still, it let me do a much needed full checkup of the furnace. She's now fully assembled, and fires up like a champ! Ready for what winter we have in TX!!
Hi Darren, If that’s rambling, then please do keep rambling on. Another informative and entertaining video to watch.
Thank you!
Darren
Love the ramblings (There's a lot of great (proprietary) info sometimes but most hard work EXPERIENCE! Great video keep up the OUTSTANDING easy to follow, working man's intellect! Those that don't have the time or mind - pay us the big bucks to be kind!
Another Great Job, thanks for all the information. Great to see someone enjoying their passion. It is not a job if you are having fun doing it.
I am presently starting RV tech courses through NRVTA in Athens ,Tx. Learning a lot through your videos and reinforcing what they are teaching.
Love it. Learn so much. Thanks Don
I appreciate your tangents. The more details the better 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻. I’ve learned a ton and work on my own furnace now and feel more confident. Thank you. Atwood 8531-IV.
Happy Easter, Darrin. Thank you for all the informative content.
Another Great podcast
Hey thank you for the video it was very informative and I feel good about working on the heater now.
Keep your content the same. If it's something I know, I can advance 10 seconds at a time. Or rewind and re-watch. Great video, thanks. I'm glad I'm not the only one with the "squirrel" .... moments.
Your videos are very informative thank you
U keep on with ur keeps on; Lov ur detailed explanations along with chasing rabbits
I like the long detailed videos myself because I like to actually learn how that particular unit functions. That way I can diagnose a different problem later. My furnace is randomly not lighting, the igniter is working but the burner is not putting out the gas. My Tank Propane Valve is on a recall so I'm waiting on that first. Thank you very much Darren!!!
Really enjoy your videos. Informative, educational and very helpful. I think your‘ramblings’ add value. Keep up your great work.
Great job Darren, you ramble just enough.
You operated like a surgeon on this heater (aka Dr Brown), maybe next week you explain how a flux capacitor works! -Marty 😁 (nice editing too)
As a recent graduate from the NRVTA, I find your videos very informative. I am soon to start my own mobile business. I was wondering, if you had a list of the most common parts that you carry. Just starting out, I don't want a semi load of parts inventory (though, it would be nice). Just stuff like control boards, sail switches, capacitors, wiring harnesses and so on. I appreciate what you're doing and keep living the dream.
I am also interested in the same information.
Check out Darren's video "Inside an RV Technician's Tool Bag".
@@justingoodwin4900 I'm a retiring mobile tech in fl..selling my business and inventory..
Hey man I’m considering going to NRVTA. Do you think you learn enough from the school to go straight into business or do you think going to work for dealership to gain some experience is necessary??
@@Hugo-Hernandez practical experience is the best experience...I would take hands on classes then work at a dealership that is progressive in teaching..everything will tie itself together at that point..then you'll" kill it" when u go out in ur own .
Wow. I so appreciate you sharing your experience
Thank You! Have never heard about Gnats doing that. Great to know.
Always great stuff thank you
Love the detail. Thanks
Happy Holidays Darren I hope all the ICE is gone in our area. I love learning, I'm retired and 67 years old. I did not care for
repairing jobs that would take several hours to fix, but some of the smaller ones that could save me lots of money.
Seems all our government knows is bowing money . Its both parties. This inflation is killing us all. Ok back to the point
Thanks for showing us so that we can save a few dollars now and then ! God Bless you because you are a good man !
Thanks Darren, I'm getting together my spare parts for my furnace, to have on hand when traveling across the country, if I'm ever in your neck of the woods, I'll look you up and say Hi.
excellent! Thank you.
Great video thanks for your help
Timely, and thank you! Having an issue with my sSF-20 where I smell gas, it lights momentarily then goes out. The other SF-20 furnace in my coach works fine, as do all the other propane fed devices, so I know propane flow is good. Will also check the orifice while in there, but ordering the electrode preemptively. Thank you SO much!
thanks Darren for the videos I am working on a friends RV and the furnace does not work and you are giving me great ideas to work with thank you
I need more rambling please it's how I learn to.
Rambles & Tangents: Yep I subscribe to that also!
A technicality, but when you talk about flame rectification, it is not milliamps, but microamps. Usually 1-4 microamps. As you noted, position of the ignition electrode is critical for this small current to be generated by the flame and be carried back to the control board.
Very informative thank you
Thanks!
Wow, John, thanks!
Very good series. What are some causes of short cycling after a long run bringing the camper up to temp? Suburban SF35F Dometic CCC 5 button t stat . Everything seems ok - Purge/ignite/burn/ burner off/post purge but the cycle repeats on a 10 -12 minuet cycle.
I have a Tahoe 27 foot travel trailer. It has a suburban heater in it when I go to the thermostat and Select heat air is starting to blow out of the ceiling cooling system and never switches over to heat. What parts would you suspect I need to replace thank you.JG
Could you link the pieces to the LP hose setup you have for the mock up for the trailer please?
Enjoy them. The flame is conductive because the heat creates ion of the combustion products and the air. Carbon itself is not involved. Also did you check the ignitor for an intermediate connection between the metal electrode and the high voltage wire? Most likely it is in some sort of a crimp connection to the wire inside the ceramic. Ohm meter and wiggle.
Agree - a simple continuity check would be advisable before assuming a ‘wiggly’ electrode is the problem… (of course you’d replace the electrode anyway😎)
I like that your videos are detailed. Keep up the great videos.
I have a question also.
My furnace or duct work makes a popping or cracking sound after the furnace comes on and then again after it shuts down. What do I need to look for to fix that?
Thank you 🙏 alot
Thank you so much. It looks like the atwoods / dometic are a whole lot easier to work with. I just did a furnace job a couple of days ago (my first job) where customer complained is that furnace would not ignite. We had the ticking and the LP smell. Boosted the flow on the LP regulator as it was only reading 8 1/2 wc and then went into burner assembly to check gap. Electrode was actually touching the burner. Once the gap was reset it lit right up. My question to you is is there a way to increase the actual air temperature coming out of the vents? This was one of his questions to me and I don't have an answer.
I am having problems with my gas valve sylonoides not firing. The only I way I could get was a direct hot and ground. My motor burned out and when reassembled there was a hot jumper and a hot wire that connected the 2 hot leads. There is the same jumper on the ground but no main ground coming from circuit board. A n y ideas
I just replaced my board with the fan 50 plus board on my Suburban sf 42q... will it be okay or should I have gotten the other board you mentioned?
Amazing videos, If the heater is crack like you said on the molding tubing can you just fix the crack with jb weld or do you have to replace the whole furnace?
The unit must be replaced do not jbweld.
@@justingoodwin4900
That’s what I figured, thank you
I have an Atwood/Dometic model: AFMD30141. I changed the electrode/flame sensor, sail switch, circuit board. The air intake was clean, no obstructions, the gas appliances, fridge , stove and ‘hot water on demand’ work fine. When turned on (thermostat), the blower works and it goes through its start up cycle. Then it ignites and runs for 2 or 3 seconds and stops, then again same thing, starts and stops. If I let it go for 20 to 30 attempts like that then it starts and stay on, depending how cold is the outside temperature. What I did the last 2 times with the first try, I blew hot air with an hair blower directly on the gas valve. The. When I did that it started good and stayed on. Could the LP valve body be the problem?
Thanks
Is there anywhere to get board diagrams? Why get $100 board when I can get a $2 cap and fix it myself. Mine works fine but voltage flickers on board sometimes. Looks like a bad leg on a cap but can’t read the numbers. Looks like a 630v 0.022uf cap. Thanks for any help.
Woohoo I made it to the end of The Furnace Fault Road! Issue: my furnace stopped turning on. No fan. Heatpump and AC still worked. Is it the fanmotor? I checked the thermostat 12v fuse. (It is inside the furnace cabinet, above my furnace, under my fridge.) It looked good.
I checked the main furnace fuse, it looked good. I checked the control fuse, it looked good. Volt meter showed 12v inside the furnace. I shorted the thermostat wires blue wires in the furnace- furnace came on. Ok not the furnace.
Went on the roof, everything on the DuoTherm Heatpump control board looked good, 12v board fuse good. Back inside, I Installed a temporary mechanical thermostat wired directly to the furnace- the furnace began working normally with that thermostat. So it definitely wasn't the furnace fan motor or anything else inside the furnace.
So next plan.... bought a fancy new microair thermostat. Did not fix it.
Cleaned the control cable at the thermostat and went up on the roof- cleaned the thermostat phone jacks, listened to the board while I turned on the thermostat (which I could now control remotely with the microair easytouch) I heard the relay click every time I turned it on or off. I checked continuity at the blue wires when the relay closed- perfect. I checked voltage of the blue wires... nothing. Hmm, aren't those supposed to be 12v? Where does the 12v feed from? Maybe the wire down to the furnace has corroded connectors or a short.
Ok next plan was to run the temporary T-stat wire directly from roof ac down to the furnace. So back down at the furnace, getting ready to install the wire, I decided to pull the fuse on 12v main thermostat wire again. Fuse still looks good...wait, lets continuity check that fuse....BINGO! fuse was dead. Replaced the fuse and the furnace immediately started up like NBD. Lesson learned. That hurt a bit!
Of course now I'm addicted to that new microair thermostat and don't want to return it even though my 5 button dometic control is perfectly fine lol.
Is the crowsfoot 5/8 or 5/16? Previous video of yours you said 5/16.
Thanks god bless
Have a surburban sf30fq that runs all day but shouts down in middle of night when 40 degrees or less. Gets locked out. Changed sail and high limit. Trying alt propane source tonight. Any thoughts appreciated. Its a 2023 twilight, dealer cant figure out.
You're on the right track with a separate propane source. Make sure the alt source is a known good propane source. It's possible that your propane cylinder you're using was not properly purged and there may be some air in the cylinder.
@@MyRVWorks ran all night using alt source. Believe propane system is problem. Is having 20lb cylinders a factor? Looked at other forums. Should I change the regulator to a low pressure so it opens more . Is any brand regulator best. They talk about purging and methanol, not sure how to do that. Thanks for all advice, your helping me so much.
If it ran using a known good propane source then the issue is not going to be your regulator or your fittings to the coach. The issue seems to be the propane in the cylinder is contaminated. The only thing that's supposed to be in a propane cylinder is propane... If the cylinder was not purged properly then there may be some air or moisture in the cylinder as well. That would be a contaminant and would cause your propane appliances to not function properly. If you take your troubled cylinder to a reputable filling station you can ask them if they can properly purge the cylinder. If they act like they have no idea what that means, take it to another place. The purging procedure involves filling the cylinder with propane vapor instead of a propane liquid. Then letting that vapor escape out of the cylinder and then repeating the process a few times. If they're not doing that procedure, then they're not purging the cylinder properly.
@@MyRVWorks Upgraded to 30lb tanks, now its cold outside, tested again, system shut down. Using alt propane source again shut down in middle of night. Has new sail switch and temp limit. Look at control board? Thanks for advice
At what approximate temperature should the air coming out of the floor vent be for the heater? What could cause little to no heat when the fan is on and furnace is lit?
I’m confused about testing rv furnace. You show only hooking up to 12v, my furnace will not work unless I’m hooked to shore power. What am I missing?
In this case, how difficult, time wise, was the uninstall/reinstall? I was wondering if it might pay to go ahead and install a new board prophylactically? Thanks for the great videos!
My furnace heats good then all of a sudden it shuts down like it's not calling for heat. I can immediately turn tstat off then back on and it will run another 10 15 min. Then shut off. What does this sound like?
Anybody with 2 Fluke clamp meters and builds his own test leads is ok with me. The crowsfoot is what makes the job though. Your not getting the fitting loose otherwise. 🤨😁
Because it was Florida.... They have as many "rv technicians" as they do "lawn care specialists" rarely do either have any certifications or insurance... They do have a truck and a business card!
Love your videos! Question, I watch you and some other you tubers and I often scratch my head. Your working on an old suburban here. Why not just buy a whole new unit and just swap it out. At about $700 bucks on amazon (Model dependent) it would seem your labor alone costs would be higher, than just getting a brand new unit for the customer and cheaper! Thoughts? I just had the brakes replace on my truck, I asked about turning the rotors, most shops don’t do that anymore, Cheaper just to replace. Same here I would think.
Selling my mobile RV repair business in S.W. Fl
Accts and inventory
Embrace the suck? Were you a UNITED STATES Marine?
Semper FI! if you were...
I like your long videos...5 minute video do not cover enough info.
Please ramble on, music to my ears.
Don’t get to the point!
Always great stuff thank you
Thanks!
Thanks!
You bet!