We are truing up a Column square for Keith Rucker in this video. You can click this link to Keith's video to learn more about it and how it is used. • Metal Planer Restorati...
Another video to help out a young guy like me who just opened up his own business. Thank you so much for all this free knowledge you share with us. It is greatly appreciated and I will put the knowledge to good use!
It's absolutely fascinating watching you work methodically and explaining what you are doing at the same time. Thank you so much for showing us how it SHOULD be done. I am used to seeing part being machined and a great deal of sparks flying across the workshop almost! This was a true revaluation sir!
I've never done any grinding yet, but them stories from seasoned veterans of the (or any) trade often give you the best knowledge. Thanks for the share! 👍🙂👍
Steve, my head is swimming. For me, the process is like a carnival shell game. I need to watch this a number of times. A am anxious to see how to address the "V" grooves. Thank you so much for sharing!
I had a boss that was always in a hurry for me to get a part finished ground to 1 tenth of an inch. He was very experienced Surface grinder boss for many years. I was an apprenticeship at the time right out of highschool, but has some centerless grinding experience. I often wondered why he thought I could rush the process and hold size with an exceptional finish.
Your attention to detail is amazing, sir. I could see folks sending more parts to you for your precision services... Tune up on equipment, improving tooling, etc. Hope you and the family are well! - Tom Z
It is hard to comprehend the tolerance. An average hair from your head I believe is .003" to .005" thick some of the tolerances we work in is 50 to 100 times smaller than that. Steve
Steve, I am an old machinist, mostly large and heavy fabrication and machining, big lathe and boring mills. what you do is amazing, and I want to develop some of these skills if I can, I have too many questions, what make is your grinder and magnet, were they new or used, if used did you rebuild them to hold the super close tolerances you make, if you used a rebuild, who would you trust to do the work, lastly, is the tool you use to check squareness, one of your design, do you make them, or are there prints? this is very interesting what you do, I have a true sense of the great craftsmen you are, thanks for your time and help
Hi Wes, Thanks for the kind words! We bought the grinder new, it's an Acer Supra-618II. It's a Taiwan machine but it is a high quality machine. The variable electro magnet came with it. It was between 7k and 8k when we bought it. I am very reluctant to buy a used grinder unless I know the owner and how it was used. If not taken care of properly they will have issues. I don't know of anyone that does a rebuild for grinders so I would not be able to help with that. We do have videos on the work I do to a grinder before using it. It involves grinding the table base where the magnet sits, the bottom of the magnet and the mounting and grinding of the top. If you are new to grinding this could be tricky. The squareness comparator gage you've seen in the video is my design and there are videos of the build on our site. We sell them for $850 USD plus shipping. I have a couple almost done on the latest run that are not spoken for. I hope things work out for you, feel free to contact me if you have more questions. We are on Instagram and you can private message me there. Steve
Nice work Steve. Always instructive. Presently reconditioning a Jones & Shipman 1400 auto hydro, inspired by you and a few others at the RUclips University. I'm keen to watch your approach to the 'V' grinding.
Hey steve another great video. I just need about .001 on the mill or lathe now and again. The stuff I learn from you is extra credit. As I get more and more projects done one on the back of my mind is a mini boring head with the differential screw principal so my collection of reamers dos'nt have to be so big. Great job calling attention to the work piece indicators of heat and depth of cut and magnet force and the potential for applying too much. Thanks!
Hello again Steve! Good to see you back on. I noticed the small level vile is not adjustable. I was wondering if you could have ground the cube's broad sides square and flat by setting the small level dead true between the lines and them proceeded to grind the rest of the cube to those surfaces. Good day!
When talking to Keith he wasn't concerned about that. If it was way out it would have been a lot of work. He can always rotate the square 90 degrees and use the precision level if need be. Steve
Steve was wondering if you could shim the high side the amount that it's high to get back to square or is ths not appropriate for this type of operation? Love your methodology.
If I understand you I explain that in the next video which should be out in a day or 2. If not my next guess is you are talking about actual shims which will work if you have the right size. I grind a step in the part to do the same as a shim. Steve
Many words of wisdom. Look forward to the next part! Can I also ask would you normally let the part acclimatise in the room your in? I’m no machinist just wondering as you mentioned heat.
you mention your wheel choice was somewhat controversial........ for a newb grinder what wheel would you suggest for grinding cast iron? I have a straight edge I want to grind.
Im surprised it hasn't been asked yet, because I get asked it a lot by new people to the grinder. How is it that you worked out how much you needed to take off to square up the part over the distance. You did it a little different than I normally do, would be interesting if you went into more detail on your math in the next video.
@@SolidRockMachineShopInc Many thanks. You know, I wouldn't be surprised if there were demand for you to put on grinding seminars like how Richard King puts on scraping seminars.
Hi Larry, We will try to remember that in the next video. Interesting times we are living in now, would be nice to have you over for dinner again. Steve
Really well explained and very nice work Steve. I always learn a lot from your videos. Maybe the wanna be safety nazis ought to consider your age and the fact that anyone who can get it that close to square just maybe knows there way around a SGer before they start spouting off about any possible camera perspective safety issues. I've worked in a lot of dangerous conditions for most of my career and it's the years of experience that keep you safe.
I believe about less than .05" on the last past. faster on the rough. I will have to see what the graduations on the feed read but it is about 1/4 crank per pass. Steve
How can you check squareness without calibrating the indicator? Couldn't the square be tapered? Or did you rule that out by measuring parallelism on all sides with it standing up? I mean I believe you, I have seen your work. But I want to understand.
If your part is flat and parallel on top bottom and sides and your part indicates the same on both side you are square. If the indicator does not read the same then you are out of square 1/2 the total indicator reading. The part has to be flat and parallel on all the measuring side for this to work. Steve
Steve, you need a darker background to shoot so that the sparkes can be seen. I would think something fairly dark grey would work. Great job as always thanks for the instructional video.
The way I ground this there was not enough heat to cause any issues. I always feel the part to see if to much heat is in the part. Every time I could not detect any heat buildup. Steve
I always hear those cheap plastic handles on the surface grinder going squeek and clankity-clank. I am surprised that doesen't drive you nuts. Not being negative, just something I always hear in your videos. Keep up the fine work. Love your channel. I have 5 grinders in my shop.
@@SolidRockMachineShopInc Steve, I have a Brown & Sharpe #13 grinder, and it is a later model (1983) with plastic handles. Mine made the same noises. What I did was clean them inside and out real well, and shimmed them axially with some fiber washers for just .oo1 or .oo2" clear fit. I did not worry about the radial clearance of the handles, because just adding axial shims quieted down the noises they were making.
Apreciate the comentary more than the visual, far better than someone turning on a magnet and go. I think your handle needs a bit of lube, everytime it screeches my teeth hurt. 😉
Another video to help out a young guy like me who just opened up his own business. Thank you so much for all this free knowledge you share with us. It is greatly appreciated and I will put the knowledge to good use!
Glad to help.
Steve
It's absolutely fascinating watching you work methodically and explaining what you are doing at the same time. Thank you so much for showing us how it SHOULD be done. I am used to seeing part being machined and a great deal of sparks flying across the workshop almost! This was a true revaluation sir!
Thank you very much!
I've never done any grinding yet, but them stories from seasoned veterans of the (or any) trade often give you the best knowledge. Thanks for the share! 👍🙂👍
You are welcome.
Steve
Thanks for showing the techniques and patience required to produce high quality reference tools - very interesting!
My pleasure!
Good to see your video's again, Hope your Health is good. Thanks for sharing your expertise, teaching and motivating others.
You are welcome. We are doing well.
Steve
Steve, my head is swimming. For me, the process is like a carnival shell game. I need to watch this a number of times. A am anxious to see how to address the "V" grooves. Thank you so much for sharing!
We plan on filming the V part tomorrow.
Steve
I had a boss that was always in a hurry for me to get a part finished ground to 1 tenth of an inch. He was very experienced Surface grinder boss for many years. I was an apprenticeship at the time right out of highschool, but has some centerless grinding experience. I often wondered why he thought I could rush the process and hold size with an exceptional finish.
Very nice work Steve!
ATB, Robin
Thanks Robin.
Steve
Your attention to detail is amazing, sir. I could see folks sending more parts to you for your precision services... Tune up on equipment, improving tooling, etc. Hope you and the family are well! - Tom Z
Thanks Tom.
Steve
Amazing to watch Steve. I only hope I can get there. Thanks for the video.
I am sure you will you already have a good start.
Steve
Amazing precision, great video, great craftsmanship!
Thank you very much!
I didn’t know an inch had so many divisions in it great content thanks to you and your family for sharing.
It is hard to comprehend the tolerance. An average hair from your head I believe is .003" to .005" thick some of the tolerances we work in is 50 to 100 times smaller than that.
Steve
Really enjoy that precision work. Along the lines of Clickspring, Gottswinter and Abom. Nice job.
Thank you very much!
Steve
Hi Steve, this is excellent work, even more so that it's done without coolant...!!!
Thanks 👍
Awesome video! I am amazed at your knowledge of surface grinding! Thanks for sharing it!.
Thanks for watching!
Wow Steve! Great video yet again! Thank you for taking the time to share!
You are welcome.
Steve
Great to hear from you again Steve with some good grinding tips too.
Thanks 👍
Nicely done! You made that look way easier than it is.
Hi Brian,
Sometimes things works out better than expected. I still have to do the V's and that may prove to be much harder.
Steve
Steve, I am an old machinist, mostly large and heavy fabrication and machining, big lathe and boring mills. what you do is amazing, and I want to develop some of these skills if I can, I have too many questions, what make is your grinder and magnet, were they new or used, if used did you rebuild them to hold the super close tolerances you make, if you used a rebuild, who would you trust to do the work, lastly, is the tool you use to check squareness, one of your design, do you make them, or are there prints? this is very interesting what you do, I have a true sense of the great craftsmen you are, thanks for your time and help
Hi Wes,
Thanks for the kind words! We bought the grinder new, it's an Acer Supra-618II. It's a Taiwan machine but it is a high quality machine. The variable electro magnet came with it. It was between 7k and 8k when we bought it. I am very reluctant to buy a used grinder unless I know the owner and how it was used. If not taken care of properly they will have issues. I don't know of anyone that does a rebuild for grinders so I would not be able to help with that. We do have videos on the work I do to a grinder before using it. It involves grinding the table base where the magnet sits, the bottom of the magnet and the mounting and grinding of the top. If you are new to grinding this could be tricky. The squareness comparator gage you've seen in the video is my design and there are videos of the build on our site. We sell them for $850 USD plus shipping. I have a couple almost done on the latest run that are not spoken for. I hope things work out for you, feel free to contact me if you have more questions. We are on Instagram and you can private message me there.
Steve
I love your work. A true perfectionist. I wish I’d kept my old B&S no.2
Thank you very much!
Nice work Steve.
Always instructive.
Presently reconditioning a Jones & Shipman 1400 auto hydro,
inspired by you and a few others at the RUclips University.
I'm keen to watch your approach to the 'V' grinding.
Hopefully we will start on the V today. Video should be out next week.
Steve
very good video..thanks for your time
You are welcome.
Fascinating-I learn something new again. Thank you for sharing your skills. 👍😁🔭🇦🇺
Your welcome.
Steve
Hey steve another great video. I just need about .001 on the mill or lathe now and again. The stuff I learn from you is extra credit. As I get more and more projects done one on the back of my mind is a mini boring head with the differential screw principal so my collection of reamers dos'nt have to be so big.
Great job calling attention to the work piece indicators of heat and depth of cut and magnet force and the potential for applying too much. Thanks!
Thanks for watching.
Steve
You're awesome. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks
yay! glad to see you back. Another great video. Glad you are well. Love the grinding videos.
Thanks so much!
Hello again Steve! Good to see you back on. I noticed the small level vile is not adjustable. I was wondering if you could have ground the cube's broad sides square and flat by setting the small level dead true between the lines and them proceeded to grind the rest of the cube to those surfaces. Good day!
When talking to Keith he wasn't concerned about that. If it was way out it would have been a lot of work. He can always rotate the square 90 degrees and use the precision level if need be.
Steve
Steve was wondering if you could shim the high side the amount that it's high to get back to square or is ths not appropriate for this type of operation? Love your methodology.
If I understand you I explain that in the next video which should be out in a day or 2. If not my next guess is you are talking about actual shims which will work if you have the right size. I grind a step in the part to do the same as a shim.
Steve
Yes actual shims or a ground in shim/step looking forward to the next episode thanks Zed
Thanks! Always enjoy your videos!
You are welcome.
Steve
Many words of wisdom. Look forward to the next part! Can I also ask would you normally let the part acclimatise in the room your in? I’m no machinist just wondering as you mentioned heat.
Yes, I normally let the part set in our shop 24 hours before precision grinding.
you mention your wheel choice was somewhat controversial........ for a newb grinder what wheel would you suggest for grinding cast iron? I have a straight edge I want to grind.
Green Silicon Carbide will be the best. Same one in this video.
Steve
Im surprised it hasn't been asked yet, because I get asked it a lot by new people to the grinder. How is it that you worked out how much you needed to take off to square up the part over the distance. You did it a little different than I normally do, would be interesting if you went into more detail on your math in the next video.
I will see if we can work it in the next video.
Steve
i wish i knew more about grinding. Great Job
We have a lot of videos on the subject that can help.
Steve
I'd like to go to Solid Rock University. Always learn something from your videos.
If you are ever in the area let me know, we would love to have you over.
Steve
@@SolidRockMachineShopInc Many thanks. You know, I wouldn't be surprised if there were demand for you to put on grinding seminars like how Richard King puts on scraping seminars.
enjoyed...great lessons/information
Glad you enjoyed it
Always great videos from the chicken coop. Is it possible to have a pip so we can see the grinding and how the handles are worked at same time?
Hi Larry, We will try to remember that in the next video. Interesting times we are living in now, would be nice to have you over for dinner again.
Steve
You make it look so easy. I'm still struggling in the .000 world.
Don't give up you will get there.
Steve
Really well explained and very nice work Steve. I always learn a lot from your videos. Maybe the wanna be safety nazis ought to consider your age and the fact that anyone who can get it that close to square just maybe knows there way around a SGer before they start spouting off about any possible camera perspective safety issues. I've worked in a lot of dangerous conditions for most of my career and it's the years of experience that keep you safe.
A lot of times the camera angle makes it look like you are doing something dangerous when in fact you are not.
Steve
Well, he didn't have Prudence the safety goat taped to the edge of the grinder watching out for him.
👍 good stuff as always. How much stepover are u using on those fussy grinds?
Thanks Steve!
I believe about less than .05" on the last past. faster on the rough. I will have to see what the graduations on the feed read but it is about 1/4 crank per pass.
Steve
How can you check squareness without calibrating the indicator? Couldn't the square be tapered? Or did you rule that out by measuring parallelism on all sides with it standing up? I mean I believe you, I have seen your work. But I want to understand.
If your part is flat and parallel on top bottom and sides and your part indicates the same on both side you are square. If the indicator does not read the same then you are out of square 1/2 the total indicator reading. The part has to be flat and parallel on all the measuring side for this to work.
Steve
Solid Rock Machine Shop Inc. ah ok that makes sense. Thank you.
Nice job Steve.
Thanks Randy.
Steve
Really nice job Steve! (and camera crew :)
Thanks.
Steve, you need a darker background to shoot so that the sparkes can be seen. I would think something fairly dark grey would work. Great job as always thanks for the instructional video.
I don't think that would have helped much. Most of the sparks were so light it was even hard for me to see.
Steve
Hi Steve, what brand of dro is on your sg? I'm looking for a 5 dec. place for mine.
I am using an Acu-Rite.
Steve
@@SolidRockMachineShopInc
Thanks Steve
Love these videos
Thanks.
Don't you want to start grinding at the opposite where you finished to spread the heat even more?
The way I ground this there was not enough heat to cause any issues. I always feel the part to see if to much heat is in the part. Every time I could not detect any heat buildup.
Steve
You playing basketball off frame? I keep hearing the squeek!
I think I fixed that in the next video which should be out in the next day or 2.
Steve
You don't need a reference to check squareness as long as the sides are parallel is what you meant to say right? @7:13
If it is parallel and flat then you can check squareness without a reference tool.
Steve
@@SolidRockMachineShopInc @37:35 =) just saw you say it
nice height master Steve
That things comes in handy a lot.
Steve
I always hear those cheap plastic handles on the surface grinder going squeek and clankity-clank. I am surprised that doesen't drive you nuts. Not being negative, just something I always hear in your videos. Keep up the fine work. Love your channel. I have 5 grinders in my shop.
If i remember i will see if some grease will help.
Steve
@@SolidRockMachineShopInc Steve, I have a Brown & Sharpe #13 grinder, and it is a later model (1983) with plastic handles. Mine made the same noises. What I did was clean them inside and out real well, and shimmed them axially with some fiber washers for just .oo1 or .oo2" clear fit. I did not worry about the radial clearance of the handles, because just adding axial shims quieted down the noises they were making.
@@kooldoozer Thanks, I may have to try something like that.
Steve
If you have a squeaky wheel ,or handle use oil !
Great to see a good video on this square, Keith's video on this square was a bit dodgy!!
Thanks for watching.
Steve
Apreciate the comentary more than the visual, far better than someone turning on a magnet and go. I think your handle needs a bit of lube, everytime it screeches my teeth hurt. 😉
I think I have the handles fixed now. Let me know if it is still a problem in the next video.
Steve