Hi Deb. I’m so glad your 0n tonight. Here in the U.S. IT IS 1amI should be in bed, but staying in for the virus. So doesn’t really matter when you sleep. I’d rather watch you. Thanks again.
huge thanks for your comment. As I'm using Kato clay here I would normally cure at 150 to 160 degrees celcius and for about 40 to 50 minutes. I normally follow that rule for just about everything I cure using kato clay regardless of the thickness. Thanks again
Hi fellow Aussie! Great tutorial! Would you be able to press this into a silicon mold before baking? Would the ink transfer to the mold? I can’t wait to try this. Thank you 🇦🇺❤️
g'day fellow aussie - thanks for getting in touch!! You know I haven't tried pressing into silicone mold but it could very easily be done that's for sure. I would suggest brushing the mold with powder first so the ink doesn't stick - just in case it might. The powder won't affect the ink or clay at all so I would say give it a try and see what happens. yay!!
Another brilliant way to adhere uncooperative foils to polymer clay, Debbie! A few quick questions: 1) Since the surface of the burnished foil over the inks is so fragile, would the burnished foil and little bits of exposed ink stick to plastic wrap if I used a sheet to cover the veneered clay before cutting out cabochons (to round the edges)? I know that foil burnished directly onto the clay is fine, but as you showed, the bond with an ink layer in between is much weaker. 2) Have you found that all metallic alcohol ink colors have a longer drying time (like the gold)? 3) Have you found much of a difference between brands in terms of the drying times for the metallic colors? Thanks so much! ❤️
Hey Margaret, so glad you like this one - thanks heaps for your comment. Okay in answer to questions 1. I haven't actually tried covering with plastic wrap and then cutting out a shape. I would suggest it could possibly stick. Although if you have all this product on hand maybe give it a try and then you'll know for sure if it's something you can do in the future or not. The other thing you might be able to do is simply cut your shape out without using plastic wrap. Depending on what sort of cutter you're using you may get a small dome to the surface anyway (plastic and handmade cutters seem to be good for doing this). Sharp metallic ones not so much. Anyway have a play - if all else fails you can just pop your clay into the scrap pile if it doesn't work. 2. I can't comment on all other Pinata alcohol inks but I can tell you the Ranger gold behaves differently to the Pinata. The only metallic I like using in the Ranger brand is silver but I can't tell you if it works for this technique because I haven't tried it. I you have them on hand, give them a try and then you'll know. Have fun playing Margaret. xx
Absolutely Mary. Some paints will "accept" foils more easily than others. If the paint stays slightly "tacky" on the surface of your raw clay the foils will transfer to it.
Hi Deb, I love this technique although I am having trouble transferring the foils. I ended up taking off the paint instead. Do you think I didn’t wait long enough for it to dry or was it that I used soufflé instead of kato clay. I didn’t have any so I used what I had but maybe the soufflé texture made it fail. Any ideas? I did use the Lisa Pavelka foils.
Hey Jennifer, gosh sorry you're having trouble with this one. Hmmm now are you using paint or alcohol ink? Perhaps try again and let your product dry a little more. I've used with paint before (a sticky one) and the same thing has happened to me. I just notched it up to experience and tried something else. I can't really comment on the souffle clay because I haven't used it in this process. Just play around with small sample pieces and do yourself a few tests and then you'll know what works and doesn't work. Thanks for getting in touch and hope this helps.
Hi Debbie! In this and your alcohol ink “experiment”, you mention a “ blending solution” or alcohol ink. What would the Blending Solution be? Thank you, Marilyn
Hmmm well these ones have ended up in the scrap pile actually Derenda!! I do so many little sample pieces - most I keep and record in my process journel but as I already had samples of these I didn't need to cure them so just popped then into scrap to re-use.
You're right Rose, some don't adhere to raw clay at all. I like to use Lisa Pavelka foils. I did a demo in the very first video of two foils that looked identical but one burnished beautifully to raw clay and one didn't. They were both Lisa Pavelka foils so obviously there had been a mixup somewhere along the production line. Mostly Lisa Pavelka foils burnish beautifully.
this is Lisa Pavelka foils. The metallic colour is actually applied to mylar paper which is burnished to the clay and ripped off. This leaves the metallic colour on the clay itself with no paper. I hope that makes sense.
@@ishashah521 oh gosh I'm not sure what foils are available in your area to be honest. Perhaps you could try nail foils? Gosh I bet you can get your hands on some amazing product where you are. My fave papers and ribbons are all from India - absolutely divine. Let me know how you get on won't you xxx
Oh, sweet Debbie. I love this tute. You are a fabulous artist and creator.
Hey Lorrene, so good to hear from you. Thanks for your beautiful comment x
@@debbiecrothers1 Big Northern Hemisphere hugs.
Thanks Debbie, I love your enthusiasm! I will try this with the blue foil I can’t seem to get to adhere onto raw clay. ❤️
thanks Tracey, you're gorgeous. Yes, definitely try that blue foil like this. There are some paints that will work like this too. x
Hi Deb. I’m so glad your 0n tonight. Here in the U.S. IT IS 1amI should be in bed, but staying in for the virus. So doesn’t really matter when you sleep. I’d rather watch you. Thanks again.
oh that's such a beautiful comment Rose, thanks honey
So great !!! Very interesting way to use foils. Thank you so much !
My pleasure Allison
Love your ideas how lon and what temp do you bake this 👍🙏
huge thanks for your comment. As I'm using Kato clay here I would normally cure at 150 to 160 degrees celcius and for about 40 to 50 minutes. I normally follow that rule for just about everything I cure using kato clay regardless of the thickness. Thanks again
Thank you, Debbie!
My absolute pleasure Kathy.
Hi fellow Aussie! Great tutorial! Would you be able to press this into a silicon mold before baking? Would the ink transfer to the mold? I can’t wait to try this. Thank you 🇦🇺❤️
g'day fellow aussie - thanks for getting in touch!! You know I haven't tried pressing into silicone mold but it could very easily be done that's for sure. I would suggest brushing the mold with powder first so the ink doesn't stick - just in case it might. The powder won't affect the ink or clay at all so I would say give it a try and see what happens. yay!!
Thanks for replying 😀
Another brilliant way to adhere uncooperative foils to polymer clay, Debbie! A few quick questions: 1) Since the surface of the burnished foil over the inks is so fragile, would the burnished foil and little bits of exposed ink stick to plastic wrap if I used a sheet to cover the veneered clay before cutting out cabochons (to round the edges)? I know that foil burnished directly onto the clay is fine, but as you showed, the bond with an ink layer in between is much weaker. 2) Have you found that all metallic alcohol ink colors have a longer drying time (like the gold)? 3) Have you found much of a difference between brands in terms of the drying times for the metallic colors? Thanks so much! ❤️
Hey Margaret, so glad you like this one - thanks heaps for your comment. Okay in answer to questions 1. I haven't actually tried covering with plastic wrap and then cutting out a shape. I would suggest it could possibly stick. Although if you have all this product on hand maybe give it a try and then you'll know for sure if it's something you can do in the future or not. The other thing you might be able to do is simply cut your shape out without using plastic wrap. Depending on what sort of cutter you're using you may get a small dome to the surface anyway (plastic and handmade cutters seem to be good for doing this). Sharp metallic ones not so much. Anyway have a play - if all else fails you can just pop your clay into the scrap pile if it doesn't work. 2. I can't comment on all other Pinata alcohol inks but I can tell you the Ranger gold behaves differently to the Pinata. The only metallic I like using in the Ranger brand is silver but I can't tell you if it works for this technique because I haven't tried it. I you have them on hand, give them a try and then you'll know. Have fun playing Margaret. xx
Good to know!❤️ Have you tried foil over acrylic paint?
Absolutely Mary. Some paints will "accept" foils more easily than others. If the paint stays slightly "tacky" on the surface of your raw clay the foils will transfer to it.
Hi Deb, I love this technique although I am having trouble transferring the foils. I ended up taking off the paint instead. Do you think I didn’t wait long enough for it to dry or was it that I used soufflé instead of kato clay. I didn’t have any so I used what I had but maybe the soufflé texture made it fail. Any ideas? I did use the Lisa Pavelka foils.
Hey Jennifer, gosh sorry you're having trouble with this one. Hmmm now are you using paint or alcohol ink? Perhaps try again and let your product dry a little more. I've used with paint before (a sticky one) and the same thing has happened to me. I just notched it up to experience and tried something else. I can't really comment on the souffle clay because I haven't used it in this process. Just play around with small sample pieces and do yourself a few tests and then you'll know what works and doesn't work. Thanks for getting in touch and hope this helps.
Debbie Crothers it works now, I didn’t wait long enough. You really do need to experiment 🧪I think I was a bit impatient. Lots of fun anyway.
@@jenniferroya3606 yay thats awesome news!!
Hi Debbie! In this and your alcohol ink “experiment”, you mention a “ blending solution” or alcohol ink.
What would the Blending Solution be?
Thank you, Marilyn
Hey Marilyn, Tim Holtz has a product called Alcohol Blending Solution. If you google that you should find it easy enough. Hope that helps. :)
@@debbiecrothers1 Thank you so much Debbie! I missed this...elections in USA drama and exhaustion...Yay!!!
Please show us what you do with these pieces, the finished pieces. 💕
Hmmm well these ones have ended up in the scrap pile actually Derenda!! I do so many little sample pieces - most I keep and record in my process journel but as I already had samples of these I didn't need to cure them so just popped then into scrap to re-use.
Is the clay base white or translucent please?
this one is a white base. ♥
Muy bonito
thank you so very much
Some fails dont adhere to clay. What type do you use?
You're right Rose, some don't adhere to raw clay at all. I like to use Lisa Pavelka foils. I did a demo in the very first video of two foils that looked identical but one burnished beautifully to raw clay and one didn't. They were both Lisa Pavelka foils so obviously there had been a mixup somewhere along the production line. Mostly Lisa Pavelka foils burnish beautifully.
Which foil is this?we don't require any adhesive?
this is Lisa Pavelka foils. The metallic colour is actually applied to mylar paper which is burnished to the clay and ripped off. This leaves the metallic colour on the clay itself with no paper. I hope that makes sense.
Thanks for ur quick answer.
Can u help me what is the option for that? As I m from india nd I m unable to find this foil.
@@ishashah521 oh gosh I'm not sure what foils are available in your area to be honest. Perhaps you could try nail foils? Gosh I bet you can get your hands on some amazing product where you are. My fave papers and ribbons are all from India - absolutely divine. Let me know how you get on won't you xxx