How to replace a ball joint on your Renault Clio II /Megane I/ Twingo I and other
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- Todays video is a short one, replacing a ball joint on a Renault Clio. But it almost the same if not the shame on the cars listed below.
PARTS USED:
Febi 06952
OEM NUMBERS:
NISSAN
5450100QAH 5450100QAHS2
RENAULT
7701462182 7701462182S 7701468411 7701468411S 7701468883 7701468883S 7701468883S2 7701472038 7701472038S
Renault: Twingo 1, Thalia 1, Super 5, Rapid, Megane 1, Kangoo, Clio 2, 21, 19, 11.
Nissan: Kubistar
Music:
You And Me by Markvard @markvard
Music provided by Free Music for Vlogs • (Free Music for Vlogs)...
One More Night by DIZARO @dizarofr
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*Disclaimer
We, The Dutch Garage, are not responsible for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Information given in this video does not guarantee the desired outcome. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of the tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not The Dutch Garage.
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I have watched this a few times now and the thing I have noticed and please do not take this as any form of criticism is that Renault in their infinite wisdom fit a protector to the top of the ball joint. Which I think was there before you started, but using what we call a pickle fork is going to bugger it. So you did not replace it, when I did this on my Kangoo they was missing in the first place so I did not realise. I have since put a nylon penny washer there to replicate the protector but in all honesty can you see the thing making any difference. If there is a criticism its that I have not seen any new videos and I really enjoy your stuff.
Don't worry I'm not that easily offended. I don't know exactly why I didn't put it back or why I didn't mention it in the video ( probably a video montage error). But most of the thine those tings are corroded away and you are not able to use them anymore. It is a splash shield of some kind to help protect the boot of the ball joint. If it really helps I don't know, maybe if you live some ware ware the roads are not that great. spacing should be not a issue the knuckle isn't resting on the shield but resting on the bolt that you use to tighten the ball joint to the spindle. But then again it never hurts to use some kind of spacer just to be sure.I never thought of it as a big deal, but you make me think about it. So, thank you for you comment. It made me take a better look at the issue. It could have made me realize that I made a very bad mistake that I had to correct.So be never afraid to point something out. Just keep the conversation nice and clean, that always helps.
The plastic spacers are mentioned in the Haynes manual, but were missing from both sides in my Clio. As far as I know, the ball joints have never been replaced, so they were probably never fitted in the first place..
The Dutch Garage it’s a heat shield to protect the ball joint from the heat of the brake disc
That could be it indeed. The question then is way only Renault's.
Absolute legend. Thank you for making it simple yet in depth with decent camera exposure of all joints, bolt holes etc. Garages here are quoting me joke money for the job when the parts alone are less then 30 dollars US for both sides. I have done almost all of the other work myself including significant engine overhaul, brakes, lights and body work. May as well do the suspension too haha
Thank you! yes, maintaining a older car at a dealer/garage cost you allot of money. And most thinks you can you can do yourself. So save the money for a day that your car needs someting that you cannot do. But i do think you can manage it fine!
Perhaps you can help me out, to my knowledge the entire face lifted range of the Renault Megane Coupe (2 door) all became the 'sport' as of 1999 incorporating the K4 DOHC 16 Valve engine's that are great and found in most Half decent Renault' built between 1999-2007 including the upgraded VVTI modifications. My megane is a 2002, 16 valve and as such a second generation MK1, not a second generation model outright. With regard to the brakes and suspension in particular people keep trying to sell me the wrong parts-they say it is a MK2 but it's not.
Can you confirm it uses drop links and not the vertical sway bar drop linkage found in say a MK2 Scenic? At no point have I ever seen vertical sway bars when working on the car but the parts shop cannot be told otherwise. Bit of a silly situation really, eBay can often be wrong too in my experience.
I had one of those as a daly driver for a while, it was a 1.6 E tough. Slow as balls... but is was a good car. Ok i needed to read your comment a couple of times. If i'm correct then you have a Renault Megane coupe MK1 Phase 2 (Facelift model). Question: What engine do you have a 2.0 or 1.6 16v?
There are two diameters of disc brakes at the front 238mm and 280mm. Also there are two types of pads. As for the suspension there are two types standard and sport. As for the drop links it uses those stubby thingies 4 gummies and a bolt. Just like the Renault clio were i did a video about.
@@TheDutchGarage
Hello, it is the 1.6, 16 valve classic-yes A second release of the first generation with the upgraded wiring looms and air con as standard, there are three disc diameters including the 265mm although it could be 260mm technically as my measurement was a quick hash with tape measure haha
What do you mean by four gummies? Can you provide a link please
Measure twice order once they say. Just have a look at this video ruclips.net/video/V6uaYwEg4q4/видео.html
I am Japanese, but it was very helpful.
Thank you very much.
I will try it with my car Kangoo.
No problem! Is the Kangoo common in japan? I can't imagine it is.
@@TheDutchGarage ruclips.net/video/nGkJYK2v-3Y/видео.html
There is an event called Kangoo Jamboree every year. There are not many Kangoo in Japan, but there are many enthusiastic fans!
Thanks for the video, I just replaced the left-hand ball joint on my Clio 2. But note that some Clios have 10mm fixing bolts, whereas some have 12mm bolts. The part you specified above (Febi Bilstein 06952) uses 10mm bolts. I used Febi Bilstein part no. 39820 on my Clio, which has 12mm bolts. This part comes as a kit with new fixing bolts & nuts.
That's something I didn't know. Thanks for the info.
@@TheDutchGarage No problem! Part no. 39820 is usually used in the Scenic & Megane, but I checked it carefully against the old one, and the measurements match. Funny that the bolts supplied with the new one have coarser threads- I'm not sure why!
Maybe made in a other factory, who knows.
I really enjoy seeing you showing "chris fix style" but instead of the beautiful new gloves you have this wrecked old glove haha awesome, Dutch people have awesome sense of humor :)
Thank you for your kind words. Dutch people are a sadistic bunch.
I wish it was this easy in Clio III. Darn Renault engineers.
Thanku. That longer bolt was seized solid, needed heat... also i bolted them on wishbone first, then levered the arm down to locate in the hub..
What a wrestle that was lol... Just completed the job. Thank you.
No problem, glad to help.
How did you manage to wrestle it into place? My Kangoo lower control arm keeps springing up strongly until i can't align the bolt holes
"Dis always works" ! Very good no nonsense video.
Try to keep it light.
@@TheDutchGarage No offence intended Dutch. It made me laugh.
@@craigfishcake2543 Non taken👍 I'm not that easily offended.
Nice one, buddy! Thanks a lot!
No problem, glad i could help.
This video is great! I have a question. In this video and lots of your other videos, you mention the torque specs for the different nuts and bolts, which is very appreciated by the way! But you fasten “all” your nuts with an impact hammer. The lowest setting for the hammer you are using must be around 200Nm. For example the ball joint nuts must be fastened at a torque of 62Nm, but you fasten them with the impact and that’s around 200Nm, that’s more that’s 3 times to tight! The question is why is this not a problem? I mean there must be a good reason why they provide torque specifications. Thx for sharing this video, appreciate it a lot!
Hi there! People need confidence that there car doesn't fall apart whenever they change a part. That is the mean reason I put the torque specs in the video. Most of the time i don't use a torque wrench and just zap the bolt/nuts to there place. It is a feeling kind of thing is it the proper way, no. But I can guarantee you that most of the garages out there don't use torque specs for the majority of there work. I only use a torque wrench on wheel bearings,engine, transmission, wheels and some other key parts. Also worth to mention: An air impact gets his full strength about 20 seconds after pressing the trigger. So it is not that you have the instant 200 nm torque.
Very useful to see video watched near Dover England.
Well thank you.
It's easy until it's rusted solid and you use heat and 2meter breaker bar, angle grinder and a drill.
I cant argue with that. But still this is one of the easiest jobs someone can save a bit of money even if they are not that skilled.
@Juntasification: I lost 3 hours to remove the nuts and screws from the front hub.
Mine were pretty tight, but I managed to remove the old ball joint after about an hour by applying penetrating oil & wrestling with the nuts & bolts. I also split my 16mm socket, which didn't help!
Very good video, thanks alot!
Thanks for a good video
I notice you say that the retaining nuts should be tightened to 62 Nm, whereas my Haynes manual says 75 Nm. Is this because some Clios have 10mm bolts, and others have 12mm ones? Mine has the M12mm bolts... Also, you say 30 Nm for the pinch bolt nut, while my manual says 55 Nm.
Well I tried all you did to get mine out but in the end I had to take the hub nut off and driveshaft out of the hub and knock it out from the top. The balljoint had been in for 12 years though
Hallo, i am glad that i'm not the only one that has these issues. on RUclips the make it look so easy. Until you have te do it yourself. :-)
I'm guessing you have to be careful that the halfshaft doesnt pop out?
You always have to look out for that. but most of the time they are really stuck in there.
по видео понял что требуют замены втулки стабилизатора. а так методы как и у нас.
Clearly!
Thanks!
What size is the locking nut on pinch bolt?
17mm.
So why does this cost 375 euros?
Profit? Maybe they did a wheel alignment?
Sorry mate but Jesus what a mess of a job, first thing you should do is spray the nuts/bolts with a releasing spray and let it soak in for a few minutes and did I see you hammering the ball joint with a socket extension bar..smdh that's so damn bad, I've been a mechanical engineer for nearly 30 years and never have I seen a ball joint removed like that.......
Hi, i dont see the problem. But of course it is not the prettiest way to do it. The extension is a old one that i misuse as a driver. At least i showed you something you've never seen before :-) I do appreciate your criticism.
CAUTION!!
Don't do what I did. Remove the ball joint and the drive shaft fell out depositing oil on my drive! 😱👎😱. Then I could not get it back in. Had to call out a mechanic.
Tie up the suspension first so this cannot happen.
Damm, yes that can happen indeed and it sucks! I will try to remember to mention it in future video's.
12M or 10M bolts?
m10
Yes, I came across that problem as well- most places specify the ball joints with 10mm holes, but mine has 12mm mounting holes and uses M12 bolts!
Ok?
@@TheDutchGarage I sent back the Febi Bilstein 06952s (10mm bolts) and now I have on order some 39820 ball joints, which have 12mm mountings, and they come with new nuts & bolts. I came to the conclusion that these were the correct ones after visiting some Renault forums. These are usually specified for the Megane & Scenic, so when they arrive, I'll check carefully that they match the dimensions of old ones, and if they do, they should be fine. I'll let you know if they're ok!
i tried this, my whole axle came out... 😂
Woeps! :-)