Thanks, very good video! The ability to know how to set the saw and the geometry of teeth is a very basic skill in woodworking it's very easy to learn.
My current saw set is a Spear and Jackson Eclipse 77 in original packaging that I bought on eBay some years ago because my old one went missing. It does the job but is a bit clunky - I can live with that. The only time I reset a saw is when the used teeth (about 85%?) need flattening and reshaping - as long as it is tracking true. If it isn't tracking then resetting is an option to look at. Stoning is not a bad thing as long as it is only minimal - I've never had a tooth snap due to stoning off too much from one side. Even if that did happen, it will (or should) be put right next time you renovate the saw teeth fully.
@@PeteLewisWoodwork Thanks Pete, its always good to hear another perspective in regards to stoning the saw teeth. I completely agree if the saw is tracking fine, there is no need to reset them. Glad I'm not the only one to misplace a saw set! Anyways thanks for the comment and your take on saw set
Thanks for explaining saw (off)set. I've not been too successful with sharpening saws, yet, and need to start sharpening the saws I have that are ready for use. The first, and only one I sharpened was a disaster! I'll try again, but it sure was demoralizing. I have plenty of saws to practice on. I tend to buy them if I find them at a good price or an odd size. 26" saws are plentiful here but 20" are not found in the wild, at least where I live in the USA, NE Florida area, very often. Don't worry, I won't butcher up any classic saws. I've got some from the mid 60's, usable but not collectible, that should make good practice saws. 🙂
@@red58impala My pleasure. Keep practicing i wasn't great at saw sharpening at first (my first time was not great at all) and eventually everything just made sense to me and became easier with each sharpening. I think the big key is to not over think the sharpening and let the file do all the work and just guide it with very gentle pressure and aim for consistency from tooth to tooth.
@@AussieWoodshed Thanks for the tips and encouragement. I think the biggest issue was I used too much pressure and poor technique. Some of the teeth looked more like hooks than pyramids. I was trying to force it and not let the file do the work. I'll give it a go again soon!
@@AussieWoodshed traditionally, it is done with a hammer and punch - and quite easy to learn, just go easy, exactly like how you take the set out of a bought saw.
@@AussieWoodshed Use a piece of scrap wood as your base - hard wood is best but soft wood will do. Use a punch and tap alternating teeth, then turn the saw over and repeat on the other teeth. It won't take long to learn how hard to hit the teeth to get the set you want. I find it easier and quicker than using a saw set.
hey buddy i am loving your channel....i needed this video....im learning and loving woodworking...you teach very well thankyou
Thank you so much, I really do love hearing feedback like this.
Thanks, very good video! The ability to know how to set the saw and the geometry of teeth is a very basic skill in woodworking it's very easy to learn.
@@מעייןהמלבלבתחייםםםםThanks. I agree it's a good fundamental skill to learn. Thanks for the comment
Well done, another great video
@@PeanutsDadForever Thanks
Thanks!
@@Gazman299 Thanks for the super thanks. Much appreciated!
Another great video 👴🏻🇦🇺
@@PeanutsDadForever Thanks for watching and commenting. Much appreciated
My current saw set is a Spear and Jackson Eclipse 77 in original packaging that I bought on eBay some years ago because my old one went missing. It does the job but is a bit clunky - I can live with that. The only time I reset a saw is when the used teeth (about 85%?) need flattening and reshaping - as long as it is tracking true. If it isn't tracking then resetting is an option to look at. Stoning is not a bad thing as long as it is only minimal - I've never had a tooth snap due to stoning off too much from one side. Even if that did happen, it will (or should) be put right next time you renovate the saw teeth fully.
@@PeteLewisWoodwork Thanks Pete, its always good to hear another perspective in regards to stoning the saw teeth. I completely agree if the saw is tracking fine, there is no need to reset them.
Glad I'm not the only one to misplace a saw set!
Anyways thanks for the comment and your take on saw set
Thanks for explaining saw (off)set. I've not been too successful with sharpening saws, yet, and need to start sharpening the saws I have that are ready for use. The first, and only one I sharpened was a disaster! I'll try again, but it sure was demoralizing.
I have plenty of saws to practice on. I tend to buy them if I find them at a good price or an odd size. 26" saws are plentiful here but 20" are not found in the wild, at least where I live in the USA, NE Florida area, very often. Don't worry, I won't butcher up any classic saws. I've got some from the mid 60's, usable but not collectible, that should make good practice saws. 🙂
@@red58impala My pleasure.
Keep practicing i wasn't great at saw sharpening at first (my first time was not great at all) and eventually everything just made sense to me and became easier with each sharpening.
I think the big key is to not over think the sharpening and let the file do all the work and just guide it with very gentle pressure and aim for consistency from tooth to tooth.
@@AussieWoodshed Thanks for the tips and encouragement.
I think the biggest issue was I used too much pressure and poor technique. Some of the teeth looked more like hooks than pyramids. I was trying to force it and not let the file do the work.
I'll give it a go again soon!
Sorry, put my question in the wrong place. Do I dial in a lower number on the tool for a saw with fewer tpi?
@@eddienew2044 Yes, the lower the number means it adds more set.
Yes please make a video saw swtting without a saw set please
@@johndoe-id2uh Roger, i will look into making a video on it.
@@AussieWoodshed traditionally, it is done with a hammer and punch - and quite easy to learn, just go easy, exactly like how you take the set out of a bought saw.
@@PeteLewisWoodwork Thanks Pete much appreciated
@@AussieWoodshed Use a piece of scrap wood as your base - hard wood is best but soft wood will do. Use a punch and tap alternating teeth, then turn the saw over and repeat on the other teeth. It won't take long to learn how hard to hit the teeth to get the set you want. I find it easier and quicker than using a saw set.
@@PeteLewisWoodwork Excellent thanks, much appreciated