It really liked the boost! It's back up and running now, and I am making a really cool Crown Vic builders episode, where I'm going to go over all the hurdles I've ran into, and the tricks around them on the entire build, suspension, wiring, etc.
that was fun to watch... sucks that the engine finally gave out. But it looks like you could build a safe daily driver that would be a heck of a "sleeper" with somewhere in the 6-10 psi range
Love the build sad to see it blow but very informative. I want to twin turbo my vic one day and i’m glad i found your video because your way of running the turbos is a lot better then my original plan lmao
That will be awesome! check out the entire build on my channel. This video is just a super sped up version of the build. Are you going to do efi? They make the holley snipers that can are very easy to tune with turbo's. Just make sure you get the one that can handle "blow through" charging.
@@DeathTollRacing I'm actually going to start with carbureted. Motor is almost out, have world products sr heads, cam similar to e303, billet flat top 9:1:1 pistons, moly rings, performance bearings and all arp bolts. Have a few intakes to play with. Fmx trans 2200 stall. Really just want to do it to do it, 500hp is more than enough, switching 8.5" out for a 8.8" with 3.7.3. Car has 53k og miles and sat in a garage since 85. Wasn't started once since last year, I had to replace fuel tank and lines and she started right up. All gaskets leak and found out it was parked due to an intake leak. Wanted to get rid of the variable venturi carb and have ended up doing a pretty decent build. I figure if motor is getting pulled and broke down I mine as well go all out may get a forged bottom end but really don't think I'll need it. I should be good with 6lbs of boost for what I want. A solid weekend toy to take to shows and a few big cruises
@@ackleyengineering5413 I don't think you'll need a forged bottom end for 6psi. Good pistons should do it. Especially for a street car. Sounds like a good plan, however I wouldn't waste too much money on the carb though. It is tough tuning a turbo car with a carb, and setting up the carb so it can handle blow through boost. Also, carbs hate this fancy gas we are running now. efi has no air in the fuel systems, so it won't obsorb so much water. (that's what makes ethanol a pain for carbs)
@@DeathTollRacing I have a really amazing carb guy that is wanting to help make it work. He's really confident and has built some pretty awesome stuff that performs incredible.
@@DeathTollRacing I wouldn't mind fuel injection just because of the reliability of it but I don't want to break the bank. I guess I'd have to see how much or if I can use a 351w efi from a bronco or lightning for a decent price. Being in Detroit I have some amazing junk yards and they are always full of amazing stuff that shouldn't be there
I just seen this car as i was next to ya in a ecoboost mustang today and I seen the exhaust and knew something was up since its lowered but glad I seen it I have a 2010 crown vic that I'd like to do a single turbo on.
lol. I noticed you pull next to me. I'm breaking in a new rear gear set (4.56) before racing tomorrow. I would highly recommend single unless you have a motor that can take 15psi +. I currently am running a stock WAP block with nothing done to it except gapped rings. So the twins have more drawbacks than advantages over a single with this motor.
Can’t wait to see how the new motor does, I’m manual swapping my crown Victoria and building out the 4.6, it’s a werid motor but they are the best sounding and I love them! I was gonna say I’m not surprised you blew it up on the stock motor with 10+psi can’t wait to see what you do what are your goals drag car or a roll racing car?
@@addiction2friction it’s running again, and hopefully I’ll do some updates soon. It’s been a winter wonderland here, so it’s been banished to the corner of the shop. It pulls pretty hard still at 8.5psi. I’m putting a caprice together now to compete with it at the track. Should be fun.
Nice build, you just have to upgrade the lower end of the engine some to handle that extra boost and torque. Best bet is forged internals starting out with crank with pistons & rods.
@@DeathTollRacing Ah okay, lol yeah the 2v 4.6 has it's limitations but it's overall immortal when it comes to regular highway use. I'd highly recommend Royal Purple oil for it, it does wonders when you are trying to protect the internals a little bit more.
@@1nsurgent most tired 4.6’s in stock form are only a timing chain away from another 150k miles. The engine in the Vic now is an aluminum wap block that had a bad chain guide.
At least all the hard modifications are done and building a stronger bottom end you already know you can achieve the 400 your looking for. Would low compression pistons help or not.
It makes it much easier to tune for sure. It's going to be close to the stock compression, or slightly less so that we don't have to completely start over on the tune though. Can't wait to get it back together. And now I know for certain the capability's of the setup the way it is.
I agree! I have 80 or so passes (1/4 mile) on this wap block (explorer aluminum) and it’s showing no signs of fatigue. Only mod is I gapped the rings. I’m pretty sure that was the cause of the original motors failure.
lol. I plan on fine tuning 9psi. That seemed to be the best bang for my psi. I think with tuning it will be reliably around 400hp and the power curve is insanely broad.
Produce a kit. At least a partial one that will allow me to hang turbos, BOV, and get the appropriate fuel. I'll complete the plumbing and tune on my own.
I would do some things differently if i were to do it again. Main thing is single turbo unless you have a motor that can handle 15+ pounds boost. I’m sitting here running 9 on my current setup just itching to turn it up, but know the consequences. 😂
Thanks! It is “done” for now with a wap block, 5 speed and suspension (coil overs front, adjustable coils rear). There will be some more vids on it soon as soon as I can find time to edit. I’m hoping to be more active showing cars next spring, and running this one and the caprice I’m building now head to head.
@@DeathTollRacing awesome! That thing I bet is a blast to drive! I’ve had great success with the wap blocks no crazy high hp builds just lots of hard miles at near 7,000 rpm in the Marauder. lol I’ve got 6 or 7 videos in the que that I’ve got to edit too it’s definitely lots of work…
@@ProjectMercuryMarauder the only “hard” part is the pedals. Everything else is almost R and R. There is a video up on how I did mine and also some resources to help.
My number one question I have for your is vibration. We tried hanging a simple pair of mufflers off that same area in the floor using proper hangers and it vibrated the seats so bad it was unbearable for any length of time and certainly not acceptable to a passenger. Curious if you noticed with the turbo setup mounted to the floor any increased vibration. The next thing I'm curious about is if you are planning to run a stock 3650 trans and do you think it will survive? Love your shop. P.S. I have to get me one of those hydro pipe expanders. Is that an amazon tool? I have a manual one and it is trash.
So it didn't vibrate at all, however I did expect it to. It's definitely not ideal to mount on those. The trans I got is actually a T45 (predecessor the 3650) that I will end up replacing with a tremec tkx. I'm going to have to be very nice to the t45 until I get the tkx. As for the hydraulic pipe expander, I made it combining a couple tools. See the link below on how to make it. You may be able to use what you have and just add the hydraulic part (it's just a harbor freight knock out punch kit) ruclips.net/video/SMGgGlCsjFQ/видео.html
The best thing you can do for your Panther is get an all-aluminum Typhoon intake manifold, MSD coil packs and better exhaust and/or headers. Start with that. Then maybe get into messing with injectors and throttle bodies etc. If you wanna race, carburate the engine, and get a machine shop to build you a gigantic intake. Turbos and superchargers will put your Panther into an early grave. Keep it naturally aspirated.
Lol. I think they just can’t handle anything north of 8psi. They definitely like the boost though. Just need a better rotating assembly first. I have it running again on a new (to me) engine and it’s been good so far at 8psi.
@@DeathTollRacing I've got one that's code out. I used to be really big into these but not to build them. Now we chop them up but many early to mid 1950s Ford trucks appreciated the donations. The only thing they took off of this one in particular for the lights and radios. But I've got that kind of stuff sitting in my storage room. Along with push bars peach seeds for the back dividers and K9 pagers although some of them are armoire for SUVs. I got started because well figure I might as well on one I seen enough of them in my rearview mirrors. I like The stance of your car and your thumbnail a lot and your RUclips handle name is outstanding
Awesome work buddy, I just subscribed to your channel. By the way I do have one question what was exactly the reason the engine blew? Because these 4.6L’s are practically beaters, I was surprised to see it go 😭
Thanks! It's back up now. I have some videos to do for it still. It's now aluminum block swapped, and 5 speed swapped. I believe the engine blew because I never gapped the rings for the boost, they over expanded and created too much drag and the rod pulled the bottom of the piston off. I'm very confident it would have been fine if I hadn't gone over 8 psi.
I have about 80 passes or so on 9psi. (1/4 mile) on a stock motor with gapped rings. If you’re not going to gap 8psi is probably max. The motor I blew was not gapped and I’m pretty positive that was the cause of the failure. It’s tough to say what max is with gapped rings, but so far 9psi has no issues even if I hot pass it.
@@DeathTollRacing I saw that, 8psi is plenty for what I'm doing. I mainly want the look and sound for what I'm building I can always add more power later. I'm going to start looking for turbocharger set ups now, I like the way you mounted underneath like others did but with the body modifications I did I want to mount them in the rear hatch area (trunk) to give it a rear engine look. I think you used .63 a/r turbos with a single blow off valve. If you don't mind I'm going to copy as much of your build as possible to make it simple and cost effective. Because I took out about 10 inches of wheel base between the axles and shortened the front and rear frame it lost a lot of weight, too. My car was kind of rough and not nearly as nice as yours. I didn't feel too bad saving it from the guy I bought it from who started modifying it to turn into a derby car.
@@FunWithCars716 I don’t mind at all. That’s exactly why I made these videos, so you can copy or at least inspire! Love the rear engine look idea you have. My original plan was trunk mounted turbo with stand alone oil system. I still think it would be cool to do, but the idea would have snowballed in my scenario more than I wanted.
@@FunWithCars716 yeah. Basically the same pump I have running the return oil, but to feed instead. Then return into a tank. The turbos don’t require much pressure, just circulation of the oil
Agreed. Turns out the trans was slipping on the dyno. It should have been 400hp around 7.5 to 8psi mathematically. That explains why the power band was showing so flat and wide too. So with the new motor is now a 5 speed swap, which I already had planned anyway.
Mo’s speed shop can set you up. In the video we tuned it with hp tuners. That’s not really an option for most though. Mo’s can tune you remotely. www.mosspeedshop.com this is the “Marty tune” you see referenced often.
This is why you can’t just throw boost at a motor. Need to put some support then add boost. Cams will get you to around 300whp then add boost only need 1 turbo
It’s well known they can handle 8psi in stock form. We went well beyond that. Lol. Wasn’t expecting it to last. Just hoped it would last longer than that. Cams are great, but don’t add as much with boost. Twin or single doesn’t matter. Boost is boost. Psi is psi, doesn’t matter how you get there. I’m just setting it up for motor number 3 that will be ran at 18psi.
Sorry, but I can’t do customer work at this time. A good exhaust guy should be able to duplicate what I’ve done though. Especially if you can get the turbos mounted up first.
pre calculated theory, 11psi then shift = 600lbft. 87-93 was cast 138000psi tensile... rest is cast iron 40kpsi to 60kpsi. have one of those on the car nearly keeps up with the engine, 2=600lbft.
That was an absolutely awesome edit to watch but also seems like a heck of a lot of work got put into a fairly short lived result, unfortunate. Seeing a 4.6 make 400(w?)hp is impressive feat but at the same time with all the work that was put into it, seems like a Coyote or an LS would have have had a better longevity with the potential for much more power.
It’s back up and running on a 135$ junkyard motor. It’s surviving well. But when it comes to the next step, something is going to have to be upgraded. Maybe ls or coyote. I was trying to keep it cheap.
Unfortunately I can’t do customer builds right now. Depending on what you’re going for, I’d seriously consider doing single turbo instead. It would be soooo much easier (and cheaper), and if you are stock motor, it’ll easily make your 8psi, which should be max so you don’t end up with an engine like that one. 🤪 If you plan on a forged motor in the future like I do, the twins may then come into play.
I’m a huge manual fanatic. There are pros and cons. My main concern is driving experience. Im only doing my own builds for now. Dyno tuning is another thing if that’s what you’re needing done.
@@DeathTollRacing ty. Do you have a in depth video about stuff like this . Like do I have to upgrade other parts to the car if I’m adding a super charger or turbos on it I don’t know much about cars
@@SmokieTRW This is the summary video of the entire build. This whole thing was done in detail. Here's the beginning video, you should be able to follow it all the way through. ruclips.net/video/Nf7OHhe76dg/видео.html
I’ve been thinking of supercharging mine but I’m a turbo guy and thought about this but Ali I thought about the rain…. Can you drive it in the rain? Like for a daily?
@ thank you man I really appreciate the simple honest answer! I keep looking at the one part in the video ensuring that you was using the stock maf but I had to ask my guy and your build is one of the best and cleanest I’ve seen
@ oh yeah what pump you go with ? Ima go with that! But I am gonna try to run it with the stock fuel pump, reason being is that it does pump 255lph and I think it’s adequate enough to run 7 psi of boost! Keep in mind I said I think so I want to get the pump you went with or an inline pump to help with providing enough fuel flow! I swear man you are alsome for that simple answer! Everyone else acts like it’s a secret to this stuff
I ended up using an aftermarket map actually during final tuning. You’re right on the edge of what the stock can do. Marty did the final tuning on it. (Marty tune)
Shouldn't be a problem. You'd have to use the mustangs components / accessories. but the engine itself shouldn't be a problem. This is assuming you are just replacing an already 4.6 mustang. If it's for converting a v6 mustang, you'd be better off finding a mustang engine so it comes with the right stuff.
@@Christophertruck right on. The early Lincoln aluminum blocks are better, but there are some differences. I haven’t blown up the explorer engine yet though. 😂
I really wanted to actually. It was just going to be too complicated to get them there with the fuel tank where it is. It can absolutely be done though, I just got lazy. Also, everyone and their mothers were telling me how much lag there would be. Probably true, but I still think it would be cool. But this ended up performing way better than I expected it would. Enough to make 14psi almost instantly. It will be cool when I get a forged motor build so I can run 14psi or more. I have the "new" wap block swap at 9psi which is pushing it for a stock bottom end.
There’s a full list of the parts in the description of the video. My estimate would be 5k, but there was waste. There’s a full series of videos throughout the whole process
Who knows. Only takes one defect to start the chain reaction. It’s back up now on a wap block swap and a stock rotating assembly. Keeping it below 10 until we get some good runs in this time.
hold on... iron blocks can handle more i thought. aluminum or iron for boost? i say iron. apparently the stock rods and cyl heads will hold up to the boost for a long time
In order of what "the experts say" in strength. 1. (strongest) Teksid (aluminum) 2. Wap (aluminum) 3. (weakest) Iron In the end though, unless your reaching over 600hp I don't think any of the blocks will be the problem. Weakest point is the piston at the wrist pin. I wouldn't try to push stock pistons much past 400hp. Especially if you don't gap the rings for the boost. I'm back up and running on a WAP block. The swap was very easy as long as you can source one. I got mine out of an Exploder.
Awesome video man! Say, why did you choose to heat wrap the exhaust? Wouldn't you want it to shed off as much heat as possible before reaching the turbos, in order to keep the turbos cool, and as a result, the charged air cool(er) as well?
That is a great question! The answer is a 2 part. 1. Retaining the heat in the exhaust will create boost faster because if it cools it reduces the volume of exhaust. (Like filling a container with hot air, sealing it, then let it cool off, and the container collapses, or filling it cold air and it has pressure) 2. The intake tube is running beside it and I don’t want the heat to transfer into it.
@@DeathTollRacing Fair enough, those both make sense. I wish there was an easy way to analyze the amount of volume lost to cooling from the head back to the turbos, but I'm sure that would require a bunch of fancy sciencing and it's just not worth it. Thanks for the reply!
I’m going to stick with 2v on this one. If it were NA I would definitely be more inclined to convert to 4v, but on the 4.6 it’s the rotating assembly that’s the limiting factor until I go forged.
It's funny even though 4.6 P.I. motors are a dime dozen, they're not really worth changing out without doing an upgrade. If the motor ever fails in my 2008 CVPI Mad Max car I'm pretty sure I'm gonna be throwing in somewhere between a 6.0 and 8.1 Liter GM LT motor and leave it completely stock for longevity. There's just no point in leaving in that boat anchor modular block just in hopes to get 400 horsepower after $5000 worth of modifications (Parts,labor,tuning,etc.,etc.) just to wait for the transmission or the bottom end to fail anyway. 🤷♂️
@@DeathTollRacing Yeah,understandably that makes sense,...... But there really is no comparison when you consider the power to weight ratio and the expense to horsepower ratio between a modular Ford and an LT,LS,or LSX Chevy.....🤷♂️
yeah, 15 psi is too much. LOL It's running another stock motor though but I gapped the rings on and it has 80+ 1/4 mile passes on it and few thousand street miles and it's staying together.
I don't get it Not a good music video, and not a good technical illustration video either. Imagine a cooking show that showed the whole process at warp speed with a few captions, no narration and only lie budget canned music.. What would be the point? Andrew Camarata has music accompanied speeded up sequences within videos, but has normsl speed sequences with narration also where appropriate. It's good example to consider. I'm a Panther enthusiastic, but found your video unhelpful and irritating to watch.
I appreciate you pointing out all the things that didn’t work out. It’s nice knowing that I’m not the only one that invests time in things that fail!
At least now we know the capability's!
It’s crazy how you can hear the difference in each PSI progression- how much more angry it sounds each pull.
It really liked the boost! It's back up and running now, and I am making a really cool Crown Vic builders episode, where I'm going to go over all the hurdles I've ran into, and the tricks around them on the entire build, suspension, wiring, etc.
Pricing on the setup ?
that was fun to watch... sucks that the engine finally gave out. But it looks like you could build a safe daily driver that would be a heck of a "sleeper" with somewhere in the 6-10 psi range
It’s back up and running now. It’s a great driver!
Wht would be a safe but fun psi to be at? I currently have 285k on my 06 town car. Runs smoth no hickups
@@hotrodlincoln7186honestly I would just convert from SOHC to DOHC it’ll give you a bit more power but I wouldn’t boost until the motor is re-built
@@aussenn4915 and how would I go about doing that
@@aussenn4915 what do you think of the voodoo motor out of the 2015 gt350?
This was exciting to watch seeing all the work going in to a Vic...wow!
Thank you!!!
Bad ass set up
Thank you!
Love the build sad to see it blow but very informative. I want to twin turbo my vic one day and i’m glad i found your video because your way of running the turbos is a lot better then my original plan lmao
It is sad it blew, but its up and running again. I just took it on a drive. ruclips.net/video/re5qYSouOCQ/видео.html
Love the crown
Thank you!
This video has me getting familiar with turbos, I am definitely adding turbos to my 1980 2 door grand marquis 351w build.
That will be awesome! check out the entire build on my channel. This video is just a super sped up version of the build. Are you going to do efi? They make the holley snipers that can are very easy to tune with turbo's. Just make sure you get the one that can handle "blow through" charging.
@@DeathTollRacing I'm actually going to start with carbureted. Motor is almost out, have world products sr heads, cam similar to e303, billet flat top 9:1:1 pistons, moly rings, performance bearings and all arp bolts. Have a few intakes to play with. Fmx trans 2200 stall. Really just want to do it to do it, 500hp is more than enough, switching 8.5" out for a 8.8" with 3.7.3. Car has 53k og miles and sat in a garage since 85. Wasn't started once since last year, I had to replace fuel tank and lines and she started right up. All gaskets leak and found out it was parked due to an intake leak. Wanted to get rid of the variable venturi carb and have ended up doing a pretty decent build. I figure if motor is getting pulled and broke down I mine as well go all out may get a forged bottom end but really don't think I'll need it. I should be good with 6lbs of boost for what I want. A solid weekend toy to take to shows and a few big cruises
@@ackleyengineering5413 I don't think you'll need a forged bottom end for 6psi. Good pistons should do it. Especially for a street car. Sounds like a good plan, however I wouldn't waste too much money on the carb though. It is tough tuning a turbo car with a carb, and setting up the carb so it can handle blow through boost. Also, carbs hate this fancy gas we are running now. efi has no air in the fuel systems, so it won't obsorb so much water. (that's what makes ethanol a pain for carbs)
@@DeathTollRacing I have a really amazing carb guy that is wanting to help make it work. He's really confident and has built some pretty awesome stuff that performs incredible.
@@DeathTollRacing I wouldn't mind fuel injection just because of the reliability of it but I don't want to break the bank. I guess I'd have to see how much or if I can use a 351w efi from a bronco or lightning for a decent price. Being in Detroit I have some amazing junk yards and they are always full of amazing stuff that shouldn't be there
I just seen this car as i was next to ya in a ecoboost mustang today and I seen the exhaust and knew something was up since its lowered but glad I seen it I have a 2010 crown vic that I'd like to do a single turbo on.
lol. I noticed you pull next to me. I'm breaking in a new rear gear set (4.56) before racing tomorrow. I would highly recommend single unless you have a motor that can take 15psi +. I currently am running a stock WAP block with nothing done to it except gapped rings. So the twins have more drawbacks than advantages over a single with this motor.
AMAAAZING BUILD!
Thank you!!! 😊
Can’t wait to see how the new motor does, I’m manual swapping my crown Victoria and building out the 4.6, it’s a werid motor but they are the best sounding and I love them! I was gonna say I’m not surprised you blew it up on the stock motor with 10+psi can’t wait to see what you do what are your goals drag car or a roll racing car?
@@addiction2friction it’s running again, and hopefully I’ll do some updates soon. It’s been a winter wonderland here, so it’s been banished to the corner of the shop. It pulls pretty hard still at 8.5psi. I’m putting a caprice together now to compete with it at the track. Should be fun.
Heck yeah! Can’t wait to see, don’t stop the grind💯
Love your efforts 🙏🤟👍
Thank you!
that was awesome
Thank you!!!
Subscribed DTR! Looks like an awesome build in the making. I'll be back later with some questions lol.
Lol. Thanks!
Nice build, you just have to upgrade the lower end of the engine some to handle that extra boost and torque. Best bet is forged internals starting out with crank with pistons & rods.
That will come. this coming winter. For now, I'm trying to keep it "budget", and see what the limitations are. We found 1 so far. (over 8 pounds) LOL
@@DeathTollRacing Ah okay, lol yeah the 2v 4.6 has it's limitations but it's overall immortal when it comes to regular highway use. I'd highly recommend Royal Purple oil for it, it does wonders when you are trying to protect the internals a little bit more.
@@1nsurgent most tired 4.6’s in stock form are only a timing chain away from another 150k miles. The engine in the Vic now is an aluminum wap block that had a bad chain guide.
@@DeathTollRacing Dang ok
Man thats 🆒 nice fab work 😎
Thank you!
At least all the hard modifications are done and building a stronger bottom end you already know you can achieve the 400 your looking for. Would low compression pistons help or not.
It makes it much easier to tune for sure. It's going to be close to the stock compression, or slightly less so that we don't have to completely start over on the tune though. Can't wait to get it back together. And now I know for certain the capability's of the setup the way it is.
A cobra crank and bearings wouldve handled that! Awesome stuff liked and subscribed
I agree! I have 80 or so passes (1/4 mile) on this wap block (explorer aluminum) and it’s showing no signs of fatigue. Only mod is I gapped the rings. I’m pretty sure that was the cause of the original motors failure.
Thanks.
Thanks for watching!
17:28 In the name of Science🤣🤣 I cant wait to see what you put up with a forged bottom end.
lol. I plan on fine tuning 9psi. That seemed to be the best bang for my psi. I think with tuning it will be reliably around 400hp and the power curve is insanely broad.
Produce a kit. At least a partial one that will allow me to hang turbos, BOV, and get the appropriate fuel. I'll complete the plumbing and tune on my own.
I would do some things differently if i were to do it again. Main thing is single turbo unless you have a motor that can handle 15+ pounds boost. I’m sitting here running 9 on my current setup just itching to turn it up, but know the consequences. 😂
I’m in the Portland Metro area. This is a freaking awesome build! I wouldn’t mind seeing it in person whenever it’s done.
Thanks! It is “done” for now with a wap block, 5 speed and suspension (coil overs front, adjustable coils rear). There will be some more vids on it soon as soon as I can find time to edit. I’m hoping to be more active showing cars next spring, and running this one and the caprice I’m building now head to head.
@@DeathTollRacing awesome! That thing I bet is a blast to drive! I’ve had great success with the wap blocks no crazy high hp builds just lots of hard miles at near 7,000 rpm in the Marauder. lol I’ve got 6 or 7 videos in the que that I’ve got to edit too it’s definitely lots of work…
@@DeathTollRacing how was the 5 speed swap? We’re getting ready to put a tr3650 in a 04 DTR Marauder.
@@ProjectMercuryMarauder the only “hard” part is the pedals. Everything else is almost R and R. There is a video up on how I did mine and also some resources to help.
@@ProjectMercuryMarauder 2005 Up Crown Victoria Clutch Pedal Fabrication; 2010 Twin Turbo Build
ruclips.net/video/DQCdj9StHPc/видео.html
My number one question I have for your is vibration. We tried hanging a simple pair of mufflers off that same area in the floor using proper hangers and it vibrated the seats so bad it was unbearable for any length of time and certainly not acceptable to a passenger. Curious if you noticed with the turbo setup mounted to the floor any increased vibration. The next thing I'm curious about is if you are planning to run a stock 3650 trans and do you think it will survive? Love your shop. P.S. I have to get me one of those hydro pipe expanders. Is that an amazon tool? I have a manual one and it is trash.
So it didn't vibrate at all, however I did expect it to. It's definitely not ideal to mount on those. The trans I got is actually a T45 (predecessor the 3650) that I will end up replacing with a tremec tkx. I'm going to have to be very nice to the t45 until I get the tkx.
As for the hydraulic pipe expander, I made it combining a couple tools. See the link below on how to make it. You may be able to use what you have and just add the hydraulic part (it's just a harbor freight knock out punch kit)
ruclips.net/video/SMGgGlCsjFQ/видео.html
The best thing you can do for your Panther is get an all-aluminum Typhoon intake manifold, MSD coil packs and better exhaust and/or headers. Start with that. Then maybe get into messing with injectors and throttle bodies etc. If you wanna race, carburate the engine, and get a machine shop to build you a gigantic intake. Turbos and superchargers will put your Panther into an early grave. Keep it naturally aspirated.
Yeah…. Check out the later videos. It’s far from in a grave
Aww that was great for a moment, pretty cool! Seems like the 4.6 2v only like SC on yt lol idk makes no sense
Lol. I think they just can’t handle anything north of 8psi. They definitely like the boost though. Just need a better rotating assembly first. I have it running again on a new (to me) engine and it’s been good so far at 8psi.
This is one thing I have not done to a crown Vic
You’d better get on it then!!! 😁
@@DeathTollRacing I've got one that's code out. I used to be really big into these but not to build them. Now we chop them up but many early to mid 1950s Ford trucks appreciated the donations. The only thing they took off of this one in particular for the lights and radios. But I've got that kind of stuff sitting in my storage room. Along with push bars peach seeds for the back dividers and K9 pagers although some of them are armoire for SUVs. I got started because well figure I might as well on one I seen enough of them in my rearview mirrors. I like The stance of your car and your thumbnail a lot and your RUclips handle name is outstanding
Man can we get a parts list??? I’m interested in building my ‘11 like this but forums are always so conflicting on advice
In the description of the video is the parts list with links!
Awesome work buddy, I just subscribed to your channel. By the way I do have one question what was exactly the reason the engine blew? Because these 4.6L’s are practically beaters, I was surprised to see it go 😭
Thanks! It's back up now. I have some videos to do for it still. It's now aluminum block swapped, and 5 speed swapped.
I believe the engine blew because I never gapped the rings for the boost, they over expanded and created too much drag and the rod pulled the bottom of the piston off. I'm very confident it would have been fine if I hadn't gone over 8 psi.
What would you say is a good stopping point for boost on a stock 4.6, 8psi?
I have about 80 passes or so on 9psi. (1/4 mile) on a stock motor with gapped rings. If you’re not going to gap 8psi is probably max. The motor I blew was not gapped and I’m pretty positive that was the cause of the failure. It’s tough to say what max is with gapped rings, but so far 9psi has no issues even if I hot pass it.
@@DeathTollRacing I saw that, 8psi is plenty for what I'm doing. I mainly want the look and sound for what I'm building I can always add more power later. I'm going to start looking for turbocharger set ups now, I like the way you mounted underneath like others did but with the body modifications I did I want to mount them in the rear hatch area (trunk) to give it a rear engine look. I think you used .63 a/r turbos with a single blow off valve. If you don't mind I'm going to copy as much of your build as possible to make it simple and cost effective. Because I took out about 10 inches of wheel base between the axles and shortened the front and rear frame it lost a lot of weight, too. My car was kind of rough and not nearly as nice as yours. I didn't feel too bad saving it from the guy I bought it from who started modifying it to turn into a derby car.
@@FunWithCars716 I don’t mind at all. That’s exactly why I made these videos, so you can copy or at least inspire! Love the rear engine look idea you have. My original plan was trunk mounted turbo with stand alone oil system. I still think it would be cool to do, but the idea would have snowballed in my scenario more than I wanted.
@@DeathTollRacing with like an electric oil pump to feed the turbos? I thought about that, someone had to have done it
@@FunWithCars716 yeah. Basically the same pump I have running the return oil, but to feed instead. Then return into a tank. The turbos don’t require much pressure, just circulation of the oil
Hey I’m trying to build my crown Vic from stock what do I need to do to make it sound exactly like this? And the overall pricing
There’s the build list in the description with links.
420 hp shouldn't have blown that engine. Either the tune was crap or the engine was already on its last leg.
Agreed. Turns out the trans was slipping on the dyno. It should have been 400hp around 7.5 to 8psi mathematically. That explains why the power band was showing so flat and wide too. So with the new motor is now a 5 speed swap, which I already had planned anyway.
@@DeathTollRacing nice make sure you gap the rings a little bigger. You will thank me later 😃
@@KyrieEleisonMaranatha already done! It’s an aluminum block this time too. I have an update video coming soon.
@@DeathTollRacing sweet you just earned yourself a subscriber buddy. 👏🏼
i would like to put a turbo on my vic but i couldnt find a part list or anything. thank you
Click “see more” under the video and the parts list and links are there.
Hi , was talking to ya at behind the badge, what tuning software is on the crown vic?
In this video we used hptuners. It’s now been 5 speed swapped and is running sct from moes speed shop. (They have the 5 speed swap down to a science).
@@DeathTollRacing that is cool. Would love to check out your stuff sometime
I just turbocharge my 06 lincoln town car what tuner/programmer are you using to get around the throttle force limit power limp mode code p2106
Mo’s speed shop can set you up. In the video we tuned it with hp tuners. That’s not really an option for most though. Mo’s can tune you remotely. www.mosspeedshop.com this is the “Marty tune” you see referenced often.
This is why you can’t just throw boost at a motor. Need to put some support then add boost. Cams will get you to around 300whp then add boost only need 1 turbo
It’s well known they can handle 8psi in stock form. We went well beyond that. Lol. Wasn’t expecting it to last. Just hoped it would last longer than that.
Cams are great, but don’t add as much with boost. Twin or single doesn’t matter. Boost is boost. Psi is psi, doesn’t matter how you get there. I’m just setting it up for motor number 3 that will be ran at 18psi.
Sub'd! I want to do this to a Vic ❤️. Crew cab mustang 👌
Do it! Entire parts list is in the description.
@@DeathTollRacing awesome 😎. I'll be reading it
Any chance a giant water puddle effecting the turbos under there
It would take a lot of water, but yes. If it’s a daily, I’d try to duct the air cleaners into the trunk. Then you’d be good.
How much will you charge for for piping setup
Sorry, but I can’t do customer work at this time. A good exhaust guy should be able to duplicate what I’ve done though. Especially if you can get the turbos mounted up first.
Such beautiful work, only to break it all in the end... 😣😖😭
Yes, that was sad. But, It’s all back better than ever now.
Can u drive it in the rain or snow???
You would (should) make an intake for the turbos where they won’t suck in water, otherwise it would be totally fine too.
pre calculated theory, 11psi then shift = 600lbft. 87-93 was cast 138000psi tensile... rest is cast iron 40kpsi to 60kpsi. have one of those on the car nearly keeps up with the engine, 2=600lbft.
Now there's some data! Interesting about the tensile.
That was an absolutely awesome edit to watch but also seems like a heck of a lot of work got put into a fairly short lived result, unfortunate. Seeing a 4.6 make 400(w?)hp is impressive feat but at the same time with all the work that was put into it, seems like a Coyote or an LS would have have had a better longevity with the potential for much more power.
It’s back up and running on a 135$ junkyard motor. It’s surviving well. But when it comes to the next step, something is going to have to be upgraded. Maybe ls or coyote. I was trying to keep it cheap.
What would you charge to build that exhaust and charge piping again?
Unfortunately I can’t do customer builds right now. Depending on what you’re going for, I’d seriously consider doing single turbo instead. It would be soooo much easier (and cheaper), and if you are stock motor, it’ll easily make your 8psi, which should be max so you don’t end up with an engine like that one. 🤪 If you plan on a forged motor in the future like I do, the twins may then come into play.
@@DeathTollRacing would it still be the same process for single turbo?
@@JoseDiaz-do9fz it’s pretty the same but much easier to do single. It may actually work better in many scenarios as well.
@@DeathTollRacing thank man! Do I need to manual swap my car or could I turbo with the automatic transmission?
What are the benefits of making it manual?
Are you guys also a shop i could take my vic to?
I’m a huge manual fanatic. There are pros and cons. My main concern is driving experience. Im only doing my own builds for now. Dyno tuning is another thing if that’s what you’re needing done.
@@DeathTollRacing ty. Do you have a in depth video about stuff like this . Like do I have to upgrade other parts to the car if I’m adding a super charger or turbos on it I don’t know much about cars
@@SmokieTRW This is the summary video of the entire build. This whole thing was done in detail. Here's the beginning video, you should be able to follow it all the way through. ruclips.net/video/Nf7OHhe76dg/видео.html
@@DeathTollRacing tysm
I’ve been thinking of supercharging mine but I’m a turbo guy and thought about this but Ali I thought about the rain…. Can you drive it in the rain? Like for a daily?
Did you run the stock returnless fuel system?
yes, but with a bigger fuel pump.
@ thank you man I really appreciate the simple honest answer! I keep looking at the one part in the video ensuring that you was using the stock maf but I had to ask my guy and your build is one of the best and cleanest I’ve seen
@ oh yeah what pump you go with ? Ima go with that! But I am gonna try to run it with the stock fuel pump, reason being is that it does pump 255lph and I think it’s adequate enough to run 7 psi of boost! Keep in mind I said I think so I want to get the pump you went with or an inline pump to help with providing enough fuel flow! I swear man you are alsome for that simple answer! Everyone else acts like it’s a secret to this stuff
@@DeathTollRacing you did run stock ecu ?! It looked like it but you the man to ask!
I ended up using an aftermarket map actually during final tuning. You’re right on the edge of what the stock can do. Marty did the final tuning on it. (Marty tune)
can you put a crown vic motor in a new edge mustang?
Shouldn't be a problem. You'd have to use the mustangs components / accessories. but the engine itself shouldn't be a problem. This is assuming you are just replacing an already 4.6 mustang. If it's for converting a v6 mustang, you'd be better off finding a mustang engine so it comes with the right stuff.
@@DeathTollRacing aight 👍 thanks for the reply
Stock transmission ?
Was, but burned up quickly. Now it’s been 5 speed swapped
Yours came with a Aluminum Block or did you get one machined
It’s just an explorer engine. The aluminum “Wap block”.
@@DeathTollRacing good to know I have the high output version of. I planned on building Al's losing weight to make it faster.
@@Christophertruck right on. The early Lincoln aluminum blocks are better, but there are some differences. I haven’t blown up the explorer engine yet though. 😂
@@DeathTollRacing hope I can bring my car on your channel
Hopefully!
the car wanted to give you an inspection port so that you could see the internals
It succeeded!
Why didn't you put the turbos in the trunk?
I really wanted to actually. It was just going to be too complicated to get them there with the fuel tank where it is. It can absolutely be done though, I just got lazy. Also, everyone and their mothers were telling me how much lag there would be. Probably true, but I still think it would be cool. But this ended up performing way better than I expected it would. Enough to make 14psi almost instantly. It will be cool when I get a forged motor build so I can run 14psi or more. I have the "new" wap block swap at 9psi which is pushing it for a stock bottom end.
What the cost of build
There’s a full list of the parts in the description of the video. My estimate would be 5k, but there was waste. There’s a full series of videos throughout the whole process
That motor had to be on it's last leg for sure or tune was off. Still going strong 10 psi twin turbo. Sucks that blew.
Who knows. Only takes one defect to start the chain reaction. It’s back up now on a wap block swap and a stock rotating assembly. Keeping it below 10 until we get some good runs in this time.
@@DeathTollRacing hell yeah.
hold on... iron blocks can handle more i thought. aluminum or iron for boost? i say iron. apparently the stock rods and cyl heads will hold up to the boost for a long time
In order of what "the experts say" in strength.
1. (strongest) Teksid (aluminum)
2. Wap (aluminum)
3. (weakest) Iron
In the end though, unless your reaching over 600hp I don't think any of the blocks will be the problem. Weakest point is the piston at the wrist pin. I wouldn't try to push stock pistons much past 400hp. Especially if you don't gap the rings for the boost.
I'm back up and running on a WAP block. The swap was very easy as long as you can source one. I got mine out of an Exploder.
@@DeathTollRacing exactly but even the non pi 4.6 pistons are suppose to handle up north of 450
@@ItsPainnzI’ve heard the same
@@DeathTollRacing neeeeeeed fast panther
@@ItsPainnz it is a necessity!
What’s the paint color ?
It’s the original dark grey. I’m not sure what they called it, but the color code is YG
Thank you That car looks pretty cool
Awesome video man! Say, why did you choose to heat wrap the exhaust? Wouldn't you want it to shed off as much heat as possible before reaching the turbos, in order to keep the turbos cool, and as a result, the charged air cool(er) as well?
That is a great question! The answer is a 2 part.
1. Retaining the heat in the exhaust will create boost faster because if it cools it reduces the volume of exhaust. (Like filling a container with hot air, sealing it, then let it cool off, and the container collapses, or filling it cold air and it has pressure)
2. The intake tube is running beside it and I don’t want the heat to transfer into it.
@@DeathTollRacing Fair enough, those both make sense. I wish there was an easy way to analyze the amount of volume lost to cooling from the head back to the turbos, but I'm sure that would require a bunch of fancy sciencing and it's just not worth it.
Thanks for the reply!
-bro your car is fast what's under the hood
+Jacked up
Huh???
Probably should have grabbed an aviator motor so you would have gotten a four valve
I’m going to stick with 2v on this one. If it were NA I would definitely be more inclined to convert to 4v, but on the 4.6 it’s the rotating assembly that’s the limiting factor until I go forged.
@@DeathTollRacing thanks for replying
It's funny even though 4.6 P.I. motors are a dime dozen, they're not really worth changing out without doing an upgrade.
If the motor ever fails in my 2008 CVPI Mad Max car I'm pretty sure I'm gonna be throwing in somewhere between a 6.0 and 8.1 Liter GM LT motor and leave it completely stock for longevity.
There's just no point in leaving in that boat anchor modular block just in hopes to get 400 horsepower after $5000 worth of modifications
(Parts,labor,tuning,etc.,etc.) just to wait for the transmission or the bottom end to fail anyway. 🤷♂️
That's an option for sure. I'm building a competing Caprice, so I didn't want to compete ford vs chevy with both being powered by chevy. lol
@@DeathTollRacing Yeah,understandably that makes sense,...... But there really is no comparison when you consider the power to weight ratio and the expense to horsepower ratio between a modular Ford and an LT,LS,or LSX Chevy.....🤷♂️
when they are people out here that really needs a car!? watching this makes me SICK!
I don’t get it
@@DeathTollRacing Think and you just might`
@@FindingScammers- okay. it sounds like you’re someone who just expects handouts and doesn’t work for anything.
Can we put this setup on my 69 f250 crown Vic swap? Lol
I think that would actually be easier! Do it!
Craftsman was on point, I just can’t stand rear mounts.
There are drawbacks to rear mounts for sure. But you open the hood and it looks bone stock.
Not a happy ending :-(
No, but it's back better than before now!
oops lol that sucks
It's all good. Back up and running again now!
Twin turbo a stock motor and it blew.
yeah, 15 psi is too much. LOL It's running another stock motor though but I gapped the rings on and it has 80+ 1/4 mile passes on it and few thousand street miles and it's staying together.
I don't get it Not a good music video, and not a good technical illustration video either. Imagine a cooking show that showed the whole process at warp speed with a few captions, no narration and only lie budget canned music.. What would be the point? Andrew Camarata has music accompanied speeded up sequences within videos, but has normsl speed sequences with narration also where appropriate. It's good example to consider. I'm a Panther enthusiastic, but found your video unhelpful and irritating to watch.
Sorry this video made you so angry.
My head hurts from the music
Yup. We are very limited to the music. You can always count on complaints from it or the lack of it. doesn't matter, always a complaint.