PORSCHE 944 DIY: Idle Speed Adjustment | DailyDriver944
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- Опубликовано: 7 июл 2024
- To adjust the idle speed of our 944s, we need to follow a process rather than just swing a screw one way or the other. It's a #DIY job and we don't need any specialist equipment outside of the jumper lead I build out of a small piece of copper core wire.
Another "never pay a mechanic to do this ever again" #Porsche944 episode.
Here's a breakdown of what to expect:
0:00 - Intro
0:26 - The Process Summary
1:16 - Engine Temp Check
1:55 - Making A Diagnostic Port Jumper
4:13 - Defeating The Idle Stabiliser At The Diagnostic Port
5:25 - Let The Adjusting Begin
7:55 - Summary
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*This channel is for entertainment purposes only! I am not a professional mechanic. The methods I use may be completely wrong and/or dangerous. Please do your own research and seek professional help with everything you attempt.* 
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For my 84' I apparently could completely skip shorting out the port.
Mine runs way better at 900 than the factory 800+50 spec.
Highly underrated channel btw, keep it up!
Hmmm…I must admit I didn’t even try - I just went ahead and followed the procedure…but I think I shall just to see what the results might be.
Yeah - I was really happy with mine too - she just feels like she wants to go where in the past there was this ever so slight hesitation.
And thank you for your kind words - I really appreciate it!
Here is my story for those of the community who have a problem with unstable idle when the engine is hot ( the rpm fluctuates between 400 and 1200 rpm but without stalling
1. my mechanic changes my idle actuator and cleans the mass air flow
result: it's a little better but the problem remains
2. I decide to change the water temperature sensor myself
result: no noticeable effect but at least it's done for the future
3. I decide to clean the Mass Airflow sensor and the Throttle body result: the idle is now stable even after a 2 hour drive with 30° C and traffic jams so the engine is very hot
so my final advice for those who have this specific issue, I advise you to start by cleaning the MAF sensor and the throttle body before you start randomly changing parts for products
they sell MAF Sensor cleaner and throttle body cleaner
I hope my experience can help you
Thank you for sharing this, Guillaume, I’m certain it’s going to help a whole bunch of owners!
Great quality video as always.
Thank you 😁
Very usefull video thanks you
I have an erratic idle only when the engine is hot, RPM goes to 1300 rpm and come back to 400 Rpm, it's pratically stall but not, i already replace the idle actuator, it's a bit better but the problème is still there
If anybody knows the solution for this problem
I’m glad it’s been useful. Do you have consistent fuel pressure? Or is your MAF functioning correctly to ensure a correct air / fuel mixture? Or even a vacuum leak could be the culprit?
What else has been eliminated from being the culprit?
If you could clear these items, then the community can use their combined insights to help, I’m sure?
Where can i find "Clarks Garage" ???? Ive looked but unsuccessful..please provide a link if possible. Thank you! 😃👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Sure thing - www.clarks-garage.com
@@GTArmstrong thank you. I was only looking on youtube .never crossed my mind to look online. Definitely gettin old! Lol
@@finster7582 - My pleasure! 😃
Just curious if you’ve had any problems with the transmission lines going into the radiator? I just purchased my 88 944 automatic and due to age lines are really bad…but I have a hard time believing I have to replace the WHOLE LINE going into and back out of the radiator…your opinion please sir…
Hi John - which section is giving trouble? If not exposed to high temperatures, you can cut out and bridge sections with rubber hose as these lines don't carry extreme pressure. If the hoses in front - this is relatively easy to do and here is a thread that should be helpful re fittings etc.: forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-924-944-968-technical-forum/1013992-transmission-cooling-hoses-ss-line-questions.html
@@GTArmstrong it’s the actual 2 rubber hoses that connect directly to the radiator that are the problem! Both are dry and both broke when I tried to move/ touch them
@@johndeltoro7990 - Then it'll be a quick and easy fix - just the connections that you'll have to ensure are correct. The simplest way to do this is remove the lines and take them to your local parts store - they'll be able to look at it and grab the bits you need.
...just make sure you put a pan or something underneath the car as it's a bit of a messy process. (Ask me how I know 😜)
Looking forward to your update 👍🏻
@@GTArmstrong not sure what the parts stores are like where you reside my friend but the ones around here are sadly nothing like the old days, I went the other day to show them the lines because I took the lines out of the car and they tried to sell me a GMC door hinge pin I don’t understand what he was thinking… my thinking is that I can get a pipe cutter like I did with the fuel lines when I put two new fuel lines in with the braided hoses and cut the hose of the line along the block and try to use a compression fitting to hook up the rubber hoses that will attach to the radiator your opinion?
@@johndeltoro7990 - Lucky to still have some old school types here...they are a dying breed though, sadly. GMC door hinge pin - I see ZERO connection!?
Re: Cutting - I've just popped down to look at mine and I don't see why you'd need to cut anything? But, I'm not sure what you're seeing...so, if you are to cut, yes - a compression fitting will work nicely. In fact, in the link I sent above, if you scroll down, one of the last comments there has a photo where he did exactly this and it looks really nice.
Otherwise, a flare and a decent clamp will do - I like fuel injection clamps because of their uniform pressure.