Paul, I have used my airbrush for several years now and have not been very satisfied with the results. Scenery, tracks, ballast etc. turned out OK but I stayed away from painting rolling stock due to splattering, clogging of the airbrush and just bad results. I use craft store paints. Thank you so much for the suggestion to use a strainer. I diluted, diluted, diluted but my airbrush still gave bad results. Your video was the first one I have seen that recommended a strainer. I purchased strainers, used them today and the results were incredible. I couldn’t believe how much debris was in the bottom of the strainer! My airbrush didn’t clog or splatter and the finish was incredible. This is the first comment I have ever made on RUclips videos and I wanted to thank you for your help.
Alan. To say your comment made my week is a severe understatement. I am beyond happy that my video was able to help you. This right here sir is the biggest reason why I started this channel. To not only share in my passions but to help others where I can. Thank you so much for reaching out to me. Take care and happy railroading......
@@RoadsAndRailsHobbies It's exactly everything that I wanted to know about why I was having so many problems with mine when I tried using it the couple of times I did. Some people use Windex or Washer Fluid because it's cheaper, and some say to use Glycerin, but maybe those are for other kinds of paints too, I can't remember. Your video went over everything and you demonstrated it, as well as went over the entire sprayer for how it works and how to clean it, and even take it apart and put back together, which is something I was kind of worried about because of settings... So ya, definitely thank you so much for the awesome video man! It's super appreciated!
Do it. Once you get over the newbie tool problems that you have with learning to use any new tool. Using an airbrush will make any hobby painting look so much better.
I have watched a dozen of videos on airbrushing and can honestly say this is the most informative tutorial I have seen ! I am definely subscribing to this channel. Well done sir.👍🇨🇦
Hey Mark. Thank you for the comment. And it's funny you mentioned plastic spoon. Iiterally just uploaded a more condensed version of this video where I answered some common questions from viewers and I used plastic spoons to show what i was talking about. LOL. Take care.
I’m just starting with Airbrushing (modelling). I’ve watched a bunch of ‘beginners videos’ on RUclips. This is the clearest and most helpful one I’ve seen. Thank you.
I've never airbrushed before, but I know that I will! Just like, I know I have a good airbrush somewhere, probably in storage, and if it's not, then I will be buying one based on your recommendations... I save the videos with the best advice to my Pinterest boards so I can find them again later. Thanks so much for your walk through, recommendations and advice! I'm sure it will come in handy!
Hey Roy, I am so glad to hear that I was able to help. That is why I started this channel. Thank you so much for watching and commenting. If you ever have any questions please feel free to reach out. Take care.
Thank you so much Nelda. I designed and 3d printed everything I showed being painted on that video. You can check out my other videos to see more of my designs. Also I'm going to throw in a sales pitch here. 😁 If you are interested in 3d printing your own. You can buy my files pretty inexpensively at cults3d.com. Just type in SandyCreekDesigns. Thanks again for watching. Take care.
Just getting started with a single stage Badger I inherited at an estate sale - thanks for the tips about diluting and cleaning. Wel-done and understandable!
Hey Kent. Thank you for watching and for commenting. I am so glad for the feedback on my ability present the material in an understandable way. Please keep commenting and don't be afraid to give me constructive criticism if need be. That is the best way to learn in my opinion. Take care.
Great video! Getting back into model railroading after a 30 year absence. I did tons of custom painting projects back in the day, but pretty much all of my “go to” standard products and procedures died off years ago! Scalecoat II and Floquil were the two brands of enamel that populated my paint shelf, but they’ve evidently gone, or are going, the way of the Edsel, replaced by a mind numbing array of acrylic craft paints! I’ve got an old blue Badger (200?) single action internal mix like the one you briefly showed, and I always got great results with it. About 15 years ago I dug it out to paint something non modeling related with the new fangled water based paints, and I didn’t think I’d ever get the paint off of the needle, color cup etc.! I put up the brush after an agonizing cleanup and haven’t touched it since! You’ve got me skeptically thinking about trying this stuff again, but I’m 62, and it’s dang hard to teach an old dog new tricks! Thanks for the inspiration and guidance!
Hey Tom. Thank you for the great comment. I am glad the my video has inspired you. If you do want to give airbrushing a try again with the craft grade acrylics let me go over the important points again to hopefully negate any frustrations. 1. Make sure you thin those paints down to around the consistency of milk. 2. Don't forget to run your thinned paints through a filter. This is one of the most important steps to help prevent clogs. 3. Have your item ready to be painted before loading the paint cup in the airbrush. Remember these acrylic craft paints are water based and when we thin them with isopropyl alcohol, we are in affect making that water evaporate much faster. That is why I use the isopropyl alcohol. It makes the paint dry faster so I can put down multiple coats faster. With that being said: 4. Once you are done painting, immediately clean your airbrush. If not you will have what you had before. The paint drying in the airbrush. Take care and thanks again.
@@RoadsAndRailsHobbies Thanks Paul! Hoping to break out the Badger in the next week or so, and looking at upgrading to a double action in the near future. In some of the videos on other channels they talk a lot about needle size, but I don’t have a clue what mine is, or what it needs to be! Starting over from square one! Cheers!
lots of great advice here. I've definitely not been running the thinned acrylics through a strainer which explains the clogging, sputtering and uneven spray that results. Thanks for sharing.
Yeah. That makes a huge difference. When I finally figured out that I needed to strain those paints, it changed my world. As far as painting goes. LOL. Thanks for commenting. Take care.
By the way. I just subbed to your channel. I am a Star Wars super nerd. Can't wait to find some time to watch some of your build videos. I just took apart my old Revell Millennium Falcon model to rebuild it. I want to add LEDs and give it a worthy paint and weathering job.
Hey Mike. Thank you very much. My ultimate goal with this channel is to share what I have learned and continue to learn with others. I hope it did help.
Nailed it; You do get what you paid for! For models; American company Paasche is probably the best, as it's easy for parts and services in the USA. Iwata was made under licence from the Japanese made "Olympus" brand some 40 or 50 years ago. My understanding is now Sparmax, builds several different ones for Iwata along with all the Iwata labeled compressors. I've tested and use the gravity feed Sparmax SP-3 airbrush for over 8 years and I've been teaching airbrush techniques both here on Australia and before in the USA since the 1970s. It's about the same as an iwata HP-C, and I do own both models along with some German brands.
I've got two airbrushes. I use my Badger Anthem 155 for acrylic paint and my Chinese (Harbor Freight) one for lacquer based paint. My Badger will paint anything i need for model railroading. I like the Badger because you don't need any tools to dismantle it for cleaning. Everything is finger tight plus the fact that it is made in the USA! I think my needle is a .5 as it will empty a jar in just a few seconds. I've never had the need for finer needle, but you can get them down to .3 or .15. Even though it is a siphon type I generally just use a color cup unless I'm painting something big like spraying shelves with a gloss acrylic finish. I really don't like the Badger paints as the dollar store cheap acrylics are even better than the Badger paint. I've never used any of the "pricey" paints like Vallejo. I think the brands are Apple Barrel and Craftsman acrylics. Have you ever encountered an acrylic paint that just won't mix with alcohol? I have and used some non-ammonia Windex to thin. I use Q-tips, dental brushes and pipe cleaners to clean my airbrush. I also use some chap stick to lube the threads as it makes a good thread sealer. Cheers from eastern TN
Yes I have had several colors from different brands of craft acrylic paints that immediately gum up when I mix them with IPA. Oh and that is a great idea with the chapstick. I never would have thought about that.
Thank you Paul for showing everyone that strainer. Straining paint after thinning is very important. Real body/paint shops always do it before shooting a car, 1:1 scale. Most tutorials we see on RUclips are a guy opening a fresh bottle of paint and working away. Now us modellers at home may have opened and used a colour many times, so that means air is in that jar drying the paint or it is getting thick. What is the shelf life of paint anyway ? No wonder some people get put off with airbrushing cuz of all the problem variables. What would be the minimum paint nozzle size to spray craft paint .35 ? Just asking. My favorite paint / thinner combo is Tamiya and their brand lacquer thinner as the lacquer thinner reduces tip dry by cleaning the needle as you spray.
Hey Gordon. Man you brought up a lot of good points and questions. Airbrushing can be a finicky beast. Like you said. There are so many variables that go into an Airbrushing session. Mess one up and you'll be fighting with that airbrush all day. I have personally never shot any lacquer paints. It's always been acrylics. But yes using acrylics, especially thinned with isopropyl alcohol will definitely cause some paint drying on the needle. My way of negating that is small fast paint sessions, then I either run some water through the airbrush followed by airbrush cleaner if I'm just changing colors, or I'll tear it down and clean it well if I'm done. I have made it a habit of working like that because of how fast acrylics thinned with alcohol dry inside of your airbrush. I am shooting with a .35 needle. I don't see the need to go any smaller for general Airbrushing. I mean let's be honest. If I'm using micron sized needle while creating some fine art, I don't think I'm going to be using cheap acrylics. LOL. As far as shelf life goes. I figure as long as I can bring the paint back to life with thinners and it hasn't literally became a solid mass in the bottle, hey I'll use it if I need that color. Thank you Gordon for watching and for the great conversation. Take care.
I just started airburshing and have been using water to thin out the paint and it has not been going very well. I pretty much given up but after watching this and seeing you use alcohol to thin it out, that didn't even cross my mind. So I'm going to try again
That's awesome to hear that you are going to continue airbrushing. Alcohol is a decent way to thin craft paints, but it dries super fast. If you want another good way to thin them that gives you a lot more working time and is much more forging, then check out my video on thinning craft paints with windshield washer fluid. Thanks for watching and commenting. Take care.
Thank you for this awesome tutorial, the kaopectate cup make me chuckle, my dad used to save those too ❤️ and the I can’t believe is not butter round containers lol
Ha. I must have learned to keep useful "junk" from my dad. Heck I'm 48 and I still find myself rummaging through the use nuts and bolts container my dad used to collect them in before I was even born. LOL
I was recently given a little CA$70 starter kit, came with a little battery powered compressor that charges via USB-C. Probably not the greatest equipment out there, but it's been a blast learning to use it, and this video helps a ton as I already have a bunch of those cheap bottles of acrylic paint.
Just keep on practicing. Just be careful with the cheap craft paints. They are definitely not as easy to work with as airbrush specific paints, and some crafts paints just won't thin down. Enough to use period. If the paint appears to be really thick in the bottle, then I suggest skipping it. I have a couple of different shades of black that just won't work. As well as some white colors. Oh and don't forget to filter your paints after they have been thinned before you load your airbrush. That is the most important part of the process. Thank you for watching and commenting. Take care and happy railroading.......
@@RoadsAndRailsHobbies Thanks for the extra tips! Have you messed around with extender (retarder) or is isopropyl pretty much the go-to for this? Thankfully most the bottles I have seem pretty low viscosity, but I'll definitely have to nab a strainer before I give anything a proper go.
Hey Anator. I have used createx airbrush paint reducer as well as just plain old tap water. The reducer works pretty much the same as the IPA. The water however doesn't work as well. I am going to try another method. I don't want to say what it is because I plan on creating a video over the subject in the near future.
Your excellent tutorial covers much more than the title would indicate. Being new to airbrushing I found it all useful but think it could’ve been separated into about three separate videos. Anyway, liked and subscribed.
Thank you Wakely Wanderer. That video is what happens when I go off script. LOL. My brain goes into overdrive and I keep talking. Thank you for subscribing as well. Take care.
Honestly, I prefer the bottom feed/siphon brushes. The gravity feeds are ok, but those seem like a little more work when it comes to quick color change. Also a lot of the gravity feeds don’t even come with a cap/lid, which makes it more libel for spilling. I’ve started with the single action Badger in 1990. I moved away and upgraded quick lol.
I have never had a gravity feed airbrush that didn't come with a lid. I have a couple of siphon feeds. I've never had much luck with them. But then again, they were never really good airbrushes.
In O scale we have large models to paint, so I went with the siphon cup version or your Iwata.. the HP-BCS. One very important upgrade is to use the rear cap from the Super Micron series of Iwata. It gives you a very fine adjust rear travel limit adjust. They DO sell them as a separate sale item, HP KTR. This is great when working up close, for absolute consistency, or to limit the paint flow in weathering.
THE needle and tip for the CS is interchangeable with the HP BCS. That helps you get even finer lines with the siphon feed HP-BCS when doing shirts etc. They dont tell you unless you ask.
LOL. Yeah I've had that problem. One of two reasons that I have come across. One it happens if I way overfill the paint cup, but the most usual suspect is a clogged needle. Either there is a physical clog like a large piece of pigment, or the paint is super thick. Thanks for the comment.
I still have and use my first airbrush which was a single action Paasche that I got back in the 80s along with their D500 Diaphragm compressor. Definitely wasn't the best but it's amazing it all still works after all these years.
Raymond. That brings back memories. I started out with a no name double action airbrush and an old Pasche blue diaphragm compressor. My lord did I hate that compressor. No on/off switch. Loud as all get out and man did it get hot. When harbor freight came to my area that was when I could afford a decent small air compressor just for airbrushing. Thanks for watching and commenting. Take care.
@@RoadsAndRailsHobbies yes that compressor will definitely keep your feet warm as well as everyone in the house awake while you work. I put an inline switch on the power cord. I use one of the harbor freight fortress ultra quiet compressors now but the old blue passche still comes out sometimes for nostalgia. I'm using a fairly cheap double action airbrush but all I'm doing is painting models for myself so don't need anything expensive.
I built a magnetic stirr out of an old computer fan and i mix paint in it, its much easier and allows me to do other stuff till it mixes, works greatbto make custom colors
@@RoadsAndRailsHobbies there are a lot of videos that can show you how, you can 3d print the box or use a cheap wood box all you need is a old cooling fan from a laptop or computer or buy online for dollars you will need a strong earth magnet and a old 12v dc charger to power it, then cut a little iron slug and 3d pring a coating or coatbit in glue stick
Thanks for sharing. Such a great video as it was very informative. Couple of questions, does it matter what percentage of isopropyl alcohol you use? And, is that better than using paint thinner? Thanks
Thank you Cliff for watching and commenting. For the IPA, I try to use 70%. IPA dries out the paint quickly ans the higher the percentage the quicker it works. I have never used paint thinner so I can't answer that question unfortunately. Take care.
My first airbrush was a cheap, no brand name, made out of chinese-ium piece of garbage. It was difficult to work with and after just a few minutes using it my finger started hurting. I think it started leaking paint around 2 or 3 hours of total time using it. I'm with you on buying an inexpensive airbrush from a well recognized manufacturer.
You sure can. But remember, especially if you are just starting out and have little experience with thinning paints for an airbrush, the cheap acrylic paints viscosities vary so widely that there is not just one holy grail of paint to thinner ratios. With that being said. Take your time and don't get frustrated if it doesn't work the first time. Just keep trying. It took me a long time to get the feel for mixing these cheap paints and I still mess it up sometimes. Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@RoadsAndRailsHobbies I've brush painted with acrylics for many years, so I'm used to thinning them when painting on canvas and art paper, but always used water. The idea of using alcohol appeals to me, going to give it a real go; just was wondering how well the thinned with alcohol paint stored long-term.. I plan to do them one at a time as I need a color, but would make a batch larger than needed and save the rest for other projects and times.
Hey Deerex. Long term storage is not viable when thinning with alcohol. The alcohol dries out the paint super fast. It will start to get thick and gummy in some instances in just a couple of hours. The longest usable custom mixed color I had, lasted about five days in an air tight container. There is no reason why you can't thin it with water. It just takes longer to dry then using isopropyl alcohol. However it should store much longer thinned with water. Thanks for the great question 👍.
Great video. Very informative. Questions though. If you have an object that requires two or more different colors, what do you do? I assume the answer is use something to mask the different sections, but what do you use. Masking tape, paint tape, or something else? Is there some type of technique you should follow to get the best results? How do you mask a section that's already been painted so that you don't damage the look? Thanks.
I usually just use painters tape / masking tape to mask with. Here is an example of my workflow for a brick building with smooth concrete style corners. I will paint the entire structure the main brick color first. Once that has cured I will use masking tape and mask off the walls on both sides of the cement corners. I Pay special attention to the edge of the tape that runs along the corners that I am going to airbrush. By that I mean I rub my fingers up and down that edge to make the best seal possible. When I airbrush the corners I try to keep my airbrush perpendicular to the corners and try not to spay heavily where the tape edges are. Many light coats. Especially the first coat. As that coat will help seal the edge of the tape. With all of the being said, the nature of 3d printed objects, especially structures with wall textures, you will never be able to completely prevent some paint seeping under the tape in spots. All I do once I remove the tape is to go back with a fine brush and the original brick color and touch up where the paint seeped under the tape. It's not usually much.
Have you found that the alcohol bleaches the paint a bit? Every time I’ve done this, it dries significantly lighter than the bottle. Brush touch ups with straight paint don’t blend well.
First off. Sweet avatar. Love Lego. To answer your question, I haven't noticed much of a difference myself, but to be honest I also haven't compared a color to itself in that way either. Could it be that the paint brush is putting on a thicker coat of paint as compared to what the airbrush does? Regardless I don't use IPA as much anymore. I have converted to using blue windshield washer fluid to thin my cheap acrylics with. I have done a video over that method as well if you are interested.
@@RoadsAndRailsHobbiesthank you for the info. I’ll look up the video on the washer fluid. Interesting! Legos are fun. Especially when you’re I. Your 40s. 😂 I used your info to repair a pinball playfield. Should be one of the latest videos on my channel if you’re interested! Thanks for the help.
Great video and gives me a good starting point when I get ready to start air brushing. Have you used these paints for model car bodies and if so what kind of clear coat would you recommend?
Hey Moparmarc68. I have not used these for painting model car bodies. My hobby is model railroading. I have painted railroad rolling stock, however I mainly use matte paints. I'm sure you will be wanting to use glossy paints. I have used some glossy paints with the same thinning technique for painting passenger cars with good results. But just like with the matte paints you will most likely have some trial and error when it comes to thinning the glossy paints as well. The viscosity of the different colors will most likely vary just like in the matte paints. A couple of other recommendations. The glossy paints do not dry nearly as fast as the matte paints, so take it slow and build up light coats or you will definitely get runs, ask me how I know, LOL. You can use a hair dryer to help speed up the drying times between coats. I would do that mainly so the cheap acrylic paints are not sitting in your airbrush drying. Always make sure you clean your airbrush when you are done painting with the cheap acrylics first thing. As far as top coats go. I go back and forth between Krylon and Rustoleum rattle can clear coats, whatever is available at the time. I don't see the reason to spent so much more money on Testors clear coats when their pretty much the same thing. Thanks for commenting.
As long as you are using water based acrylics, then IPA should be just fine. I prefer to use the airbrush cleaners that are recommended for the paint that I am using, which is usually createx brand paints. Plus I know that airbrush cleaner is formulated so that it doesn't hurt the rubber o-rings in the airbrush.
@@RoadsAndRailsHobbies Interesting... is IPA known to degrade rubber, and if so (potentially dumb question alert), would a 70% IPA be significantly less harmful to rubber than a 91% IPA?
Hey Loren. You should be fine using IPA in any strength. I wouldn't soak it over night in it, but for general cleaning it shouldn't be a problem at all.
Is there a ratio for thinning thicker craft paint with 91% alcohol? For example, maybe 2:1? I’m unfamiliar with the consistency of airbrush paint to have a baseline. To refer to consistency (thickness of pigment) with watercolor they use food-type terms like tea, coffee, cream, butter consistency. But if you can relate it to some fluid I might be familiar with that would be helpful. I’d definitely be interested to know how thin or thick the resulting mixture should be to put through an airbrush? Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge with us! ❤
Hey Amanda. There is no one set ratio for thinning craft paints for the simple reason that you just found out. Their thickness varies from brand to brand and even from color to color in the same brands. I shoot for the consistency of milk, or I guess a little thinner than a creamy consistency. Just remember using alcohol with cause the paint to dry extremely fast. Thar is why I use alcohol, so I can put down more layers faster. With that being said, do not let the paint just sit in your airbrush. Take care and thanks for the question.
If you don’t like the Aztec, I’d be glad to take it off your hands. 😉🤓🤪 I got one when they first came out. It’s long worn out because the “hose” (integrated urethane? silicone?) deteriorated shortly after the dark gray parts separated at the seams. It did last for several years though. I would love to get another Aztec Airbrush with available nozzle assemblies, with a threaded nip for a detachable hose. Until I can afford the new Aztec kit, I’ll just keep using my $20 & $45 Airbrush Master “standard” dual action, and pistol grip dual action, respectively. Just need to decide if I want the Aztec first or upgrade from on demand compressor to a 1gal California Air 59db compressor.
Ah, I forgot this video was about craft paints, there's a solid 15mins of talking about airbrushes, brands, upkeep, etc. I should have paid attention to the chapter labels. I worked with a heavy body white out of a tube the other day, used my homemade thinner to work it down a bit, just manually mixing it, but then I poured that into a dropper bottle with some ball bearings and let the vortex mixer finish smoothing it out. It worked pretty well!
That's an interesting idea. I don't think I would do that simply because I still use the same paints to apply with a brush and sometimes I want them thick, depending on the application of course. Thanks for the comment. That's definitely thinking outside of the box. I love getting new ideas from everyone.
That's a bad process and usually advised from others in videos that have no clue. Keep your paints unedited in your bottles and mix in a different container. You can clean out old used up paint bottles for doing this and only mix what you need. Some thinners can have a moisture reduction property and will cause your paints to goop up like cottage cheese over time. The best reason is also depending on the work you may thin your paints a little less or more with each project, pre thinning unless you remember what ratio you used can cause issues there as well, but mostly it's to keep your paints as pure as possible till needed.
I honestly had my doubts about using those craft paints but you set my fears to rest. My only question is do they mostly dry with a flat finish? And what clear do you recommend for a high gloss? Epoxy, UV ?
Hey TB. Sorry for the late response. Busy weekend. Still be careful using the craft paints. Some still don't mix well with IPA. It's not brand or color specific, but some of them get almost rubbery very quickly when thinned with IPA. So just keep an eye out for it. And I use mostly flat craft paints because of what I am painting. I have however used gloss craft paints they do dry glossy. I find however that the flat paints dry faster so I stick with them and if I want a gloss finish I just seal them in with a gloss clear. I use either krylon or rustoleum for both the gloss clear and the mat clear coats. Either one works great. I have never used an epoxy to gloss clear before so I cannot speak on that. Thank you for watching and commenting. Take care and happy railroading.......
@@RoadsAndRailsHobbies Thank you for taking the time to reply. I’ll be doing some modeling but for the most part I’m going to be doing fishing lures. They will be taking a beating. I’ve decided to build an UV light box and go that route on those. I’m subscribed so keep up with the wonderful help. Thank you again.
Learned a few things, thxs. I build a couple of models a year, i used to own an Iwata Eclipse i bought new. I had only problems with it, i know it’s me but i finnaly sold it. I bought an el cheapo one online from China, same look, gravity fed, pretty sturdy $40 shipped. I tried it a few times and loved it so much i bought a second one. I have used the first one for overs 10 years and it works fine, no sputter, no headaches, easy to clean. The 2nd one is still new in box never used. Go figure 👍🏻 Why do you remove the tip to airbrush? Sorry i missed why. Thxs for the tutorial on thinning these cheap craft paints. A guy glosses them sometimes and it seems they could be airbrushed on model cars, what do you think? Final question, you don’t prime first? Do you dullcote after? Thxs again
Thanks for the great questions. Removing the tip for me is an old habit left over from learning fine art painting. For one it allows me to get closer to the work for finer line detail. That is more for fine art painting. The big plus however is that sometimes the tip will get paint build up on it and it could come off as a spatter. Ask me how I know. LOL. As far as model car painting. I am currently working on one. I am using the cheap acrylics on it. Since model car bodies are so smooth I did use a rattle can primer first. Then I sprayed on my color. Now I noticed that the cheap acrylics did not give me a smooth finish like createx paints do, however for my project it didn't matter to me. Possibly if you put on enough coats you could wet sand it to get a smooth finish. Anyhow, I then applied a matte clear coat just to protect the paint. I am building a general lee and plan on painting the flag on the roof and the numbers on the doors using stencils. After I'm am done with all of that I am going to rattle can clear it with a glossy top coat. I hope I answered your questions. Take care and thanks again.
Same story with me at first i had a cheap airbrush from amazon which came with my compressor and dont get me wrong it was a step up from brush painting but i decided after 1month or so id invest in a Iwata eclipse and OH MY BABY JEBUS the thing is a dream. Next upgrade will be a proper compressor maybe one with 2 lines so i could have a detail airbrush and a area airbrush and definitely another Iwata :P
LOL. I knew I wasn't the only person in the world to experience the "Get what you paid for" when it comes to airbrushes. Check out airbrush manifolds on Amazon. I don't know what type of compressor you are using or are planning to use in the future, but with the manifold you can have several airbrushes hooked up at once. I personally run a cheap harbor freight 3 gallon pancake air compressor for my airbrushes. It is loud though. I see that harbor freight now is carrying what they call quiet air compressors. One of those will be my future investment. Take care and thank you for commenting.
Aloha Paul Nice Job I needed this. Picked up an air brush with compressor about 2 yrs ago at a garage sale around $25 for a Badger. I'm looking forward to your buildings. The coal gondolas I downloaded came out good. I'll put some of my build notes for them over in the comments on Cults for you. Nothing bad just detail stuff for assembly. I love the thought process you go through in design having the floors and light holders in the buildings is great and the posts (pillars) allows one to sub separate the floors for rooms with different lighting.
Thanks for you input as always Peter. I didn't get around to mentioning too much about the buildings just because that is not what the this video was about. Since you mentioned it though. The pillars were not only designed to hold up the next floor, their other purpose is to use as back stops to put printed out interior scenes and have them lit from behind through the hole in the base / floor. Keep the comments coming brother. Oh and don't forget to check out my Facebook page, Paul's Railroad. You can message me through there and share any modeling you have done. I would love to see what you have come up with.
I really enjoyed your video and at the same time learnt loads along the way as I'm very new to airbrushing! Is there a way to find out the percentage of 'colour' pigment in the paints?
Hi Andrew. Thank you for the kind words. I am glad that my videonwas able to help. As far as the percentage of colour pigments go, unfortunately I kind of doubt it. Even if we were to ask the manufacturer I don't think they would tell us. You know it's their formula kind of thing. From my experience it seems to me that the lighter the paint, the "larger" the pigments are. at least in the inexpensive craft paints. whites and light grays are the hardest to mix because of their pigments being so large and not wanting to break down. Do you currently have an airbrush? If so. What brand and model are you using?
@@RoadsAndRailsHobbies Thank you for replying, I find all this very interesting I must get out more lol. I've been saving up for a BARTSHARP Airbrush and twin cylinder air compressor but when I get enough money together a Grandchild's Birthday or Bill pops up so they get always get the priority. But I must have been on the good list this year, my Wife and Children have bought me the Bartsharp Airbrush and Compressor along with ranges of acrylic paints etc. So I'm literally like a child at Christmas lol. We've had a house full of Grandchildren for the last two days so not ideal to get out my new toys, but I'll definitely be practicing from tomorrow onwards finger's crossed. I've done excessive research over the last 6 month's or more and was recommended over and over the Bartsharp Airbrush equipment sold in the UK. I've seen one guy who reviews the airbrush. BARTSHARP 183K, he uses the Iwata and he can't believe the standard and quality of the Bartsharp183K. I've spoken to people who also use the 183K and they have all stated the exact same. The only problem is that as soon as they come in stock they have been bought. There's one guy who teaches airbrushing and he's bought all his students the same airbrushing kit! I can honestly say that I've had not had one wrong word said about them! So you can imagine how excited I am to use mine. I normally do a lot of Pyrography (burning image's and text), a sample of my early work can be seen in my profile pic! But I like a challenge and I'm not finding the Pyrography challenging enough where as the airbrushing will feed my hunger if you know what I mean lol. It's all very new and hopefully challenging. My apologies for the long reply, take care my friend and may I take this opportunity to wish you and your family a Happy & Healthy New Year.👍😷👍🏴
Andrew. Never apologize for long messages. I love hearing from everyone. I am glad you were on the nice list this year. 😁. I myself have dabbled in pyography a little bit. Then I bought a laser engraver. LOL. Let me know how your airbrushing adventures turn out. Happy new year to you and your family. Take care brother.
Hey Andrew. No matter what we use. It's still a challenge. LOL. I bought a cheap laser. The Ortur Master 2. I want to try my hand at designing HO scale wooden structure kits. I'm sure like you, I absolutely love being creative. So here's to new adventures. 🍺
I have a Badger 150. It's a syphon type. It works brilliant, but you cant seem to use small amounts of paint, which you can with a gravity type. I make models and sometimes just need bits of paint. Horses for courses I suppose. Great channel, just found you.👍
Thank you Paul for sharing. I have some siphon fed airbrushes also. Always had problems when the paint cup was getting empty, I would get spitting from the airbrush. Great name by the way. 😁
@@RoadsAndRailsHobbies Thanks for taking the time to reply, means something. Like I said just found your channel now a subscriber. Paul, it is a great name isn't it. All the best fella.🍷👍
Use the the siphon cup not the bottle for light work and you may have to raise your PSI a bit. Siphon feeds require more pressure to work. Paasche H usually comes with the metal cup that slides into the feed end, some brushes don't come with it but it can be had from many LHS stores for a few bucks.
Hey Bill. I have used both 71% and 91%. You are correct. The 71 will give you a little more working time. I however rarely use IPA anymore. I'm now using plain old blue windshield washer fluid now. It doesn't turn the acrylic craft paints into a rubbery blob.
Some questions, if you mix with alcohol and put it into a small glass bottle, how long will it keep? If mixing with water, do you just use tap/filtered water, or distilled water? Thanks for the video!!
Hey Jonah. The only time I keep paint for an extended period of time is when I mix a custom color for a project and I only keep it for as long as it takes me to get that project painted, just in case I need to make any touch ups. I have kept paint for as long as a week in glass jars before I was finished with the project and disposed of the paint. I wouldn't suggest running it through your airbrush after a couple of days though because it will start to jell up in that glass jar. I use the paint I keep to touch up with a regular paint brush. Remember if you are going to run these cheap acrylics through your airbrush, clean, clean ,clean it immediately after your done painting. And I wouldn't be doing hour long paint sessions without at least wiping your paint cup out periodically and running some good airbrush cleaner through your brush. As far as water goes. I usually just use tap water. I mean if you have distilled water that would probably be better. Definitely less to no impurities in that. Thanks for the great questions.
Well I really can't speak on subject only because I've never used it or looked into it. I know you can use plain windex that is ammonia free. I don't know how similar the two products are. Thanks for commenting.
@@paulratliff4116 Had to rewatch this as now have a new airbrush and mini-compressor for my train 'workspace'. Getting ready to paint my first styrene model. Again thanks for sharing this great info! Quick question - can't you use alcohol to clean instead of a specialized cleaner?
Technically if you are using water based paints you could just use water. You my just have to "scrub" a little harder. I would use isopropyl alcohol to clean it with. I wouldn't use any real harsh solvents though.
Hello again. Since you are doing some informative experiments, may I ask you a question: Can we use tile and ceramic paint with an airbrush? Have you ever tried, or would you consider trying? Would it harm the airbrush? There are transparent tile and ceramic paints (glass and porcelain paint) that in my opinion are very similar to the transparent airbrush paints.
Hey Levent. I have never thought of using ceramic paints through and airbrush. I don't know the properties of that type if paint. In other words I don't know if you could filter the paint like you should all paints. If you can filter it, then I don't see why you couldn't use it. I would use a cheap airbrush the first time, just in case that type of paint would damage it. And I would definitely wear some form of breathing protection. "You should always wear breathing protection". And as always. Make sure you clean your airbrush immediately after painting. If you try it, let us all know.
Great video! Some questions! How much of the cleaner do you use for that bottle to last a decade?? Do you need to seal the acrylic with some sort of finish? I couldn’t tell, did you use a primer?
LOL. Not much at all. I do my initial clean with straight up water. Then I fill the paint reservoir about half full with the actual airbrush cleaner. And I don't spray it completely out. I leave enough in the reservoir to be able to twist up a corner of a paper towel to stick down in the paint reservoir to kinda scrub it out. I use that same damp paper towel to wipe down the needle and other parts. Keep in mind though the usage of airbrush cleaner is very subjective. I don't paint every day, or heck I may even go several months between painting sessions. Just depending on what I'm working on. Thanks for commenting.
As far as sealing goes. I don't seal my structures simply because they are not handled very much and I have found that no matter what type of top coat I use they all dull down the finish to some degree. Anything that is going to be handed often I will use a clear coat. Most of the time it is a matte clear coat. Say if I'm painting rolling stock. Unless it is top coated the acrylic will scratch off fairly easily with just your fingernail. And no I don't normally use a primer for 3d printed objects. Most 3d printed objects, especially my structures, have enough of a texture that I don't feel the need personally to take that extra step. Also I still kinda give it a prime coat. I put the first coat down pretty lightly and use that as a primer. Now if I were to be painting super smooth objects like, say an injection molded model I would definitely use some kind of primer to help the paint adhere to the smooth object. Or if I need to smooth out an object a bit, I may use a filler primer to fill the small imperfections. Thanks for asking.
Excellent! If you dilute the acrylic cheap paint with alcohol, does it affect durability of adherence? Any economical paintbrush you recommend for beginners? Thanks!
Sorry for the late response. Was on vacation for the last two weeks. Adding the alcohol does not affect the durability or adhesion. Remember however these are cheap acrylics and depending on the surface your are painting they will adhere differently. The more porous the material the stronger the bond. For example, wood, very strong bond, plastic not as strong and will scratch with your fingernail. I top coat all of my plastic items I paint that are going to be handled with either a matte or gloss sealant. That helps with the durability. As far as airbrushes go. It is best to stick with a name brand. I like Iwata. They have entet level models you can purchase for around 100 bucks. Thanks for the question
Hi - Just found your channel - Very nice work - great videos - New to airbrushing (bought it - not used yet - still watching videos! I looked at Amazon for those strainers you are using. I didn't find them - can you give a description (mesh size, etc.) - link - to them? Some tubers show a list of supplies and links in the text -doing the work for us!! Can't wait to watch more of your work. Thank you so much. The only thing missing was where you went back to assemble the airbrush and didn't show inserting the throttle button - just a novice comment!
Thanks for the kind words. I'll attach a link here. I have just recently became an Amazon Associate so I have started putting links in my newer videos. So moving forward they will all have links to the items I'm using. Thanks for watching. amzn.to/3r0EsXT
So I'm just curious. What is your true passion? I'm assuming it's model railroading in N scale. I have a passion for both air brushing and N scale model railroads. But they are from 2 different passions. I got into air brushing because I ride motorcycles and have custom painted a few of my own with an airbrush. I have an Iwata Eclipse SBS and a Iwata Custom Micron C which I am not good enough to take full advantage of. But I have never really used my airbrush on my N scale layout except to paint backdrops. Most of the buildings I have are from kits but I have never seen much as far as paint it yourself kits. I think we have a lot in common.
Hey there MrMotionmac. My true passion is to be creative. I love modeling in general. I started this channel talking about model railroading because model railroading brings in every aspect of being creative for me. Diorama building, painting, model building and designing my own objects such as buildings and rolling stock, along with a plethora of greeblies to add to scenes. I've always really loved painting. Painting for model railroading is usually more weathering to make something look well used. Which don't get me wrong, that is a whole creative side that I really enjoy. However I like pretty shiny things as well and that is why I started painting diecast cars and slot cars. To showcase a totally different side of painting and modeling. But in the end I just really love being creative. It's almost an addiction. Thank you so much for watching and asking a great question. Take care and happy railroading......
Hello Pierre. Yes a .5 needle would allow easier paint flow with thicker pigmented paints. If all you are planning on doing is just putting down large areas of coverage and not concerned with any finer detail painting, then I say, go for it. I only use a .3 needle and just make sure my paint is thin enough. Don't get me wrong. It is definitely trial and error when thinning paints, especially ones I've never used before. However I like to have the finer control of a .3 needle. Take care brother and thank you for watching and asking a great question.
Hey Susan. If you go back to that video there are links in the description of all the items I use including the strainers. Thank you for watching. Take care.
I had cheapo Amazon airbrushes for a while. I was positive there was something wrong with them....after I gained a little more experience, I figured it out.......wet/dry 2000 grit, followed by metal polish on the needle....and spent money on better quality nozzles (as much as the airbrush cost originally)... But now I have several cheapo airbrushes that are on par with the iawata neo. But in all reality, I would have spent less time on a neo. Depends on what you have more of, money or time
Oh and createx 4050 changed my life. Mixes with any water based acrylic, and turns it into acrylic urethane.(it's the only way to do lexan rc car bodies) Doesn't just make a more durable finish, but also seems to help the paint flow out better on the work(better atomization flatter finish, less texture.
CAN YOU PAINT WITH THE CUP CAP ON? I SEE ALOT OF PEOPLE TAKE IT OFF JUST WONDERING. I JUST STARTED AIR BRUSHING YOU VIDIO IS VERY INFORMATIVE THANK YOU
Hey Charles. Thank you for the kind words. And you most definitely can paint with the cap on the paint reservoir. If you notice the cap should have a tiny hole in the center of it that allows air to come in while you are painting so there is no vacuum problem. I paint with my cap on almost all the time. The only time I take it off is if I think I may be getting f close to running out of paint and I want to keep an eye on it. If you run the airbrush out of paint it tends to spit and sputter which could ruin what you are painting. It's totally up to you whether you put the cap on or not. Take care
This is beyond weird! Yesterday, I bought that exact Iwata spray gun (Neo by Iwata gravity feed $60) AND that exact brand of paints at Hobby Lobby. Different colors but still! I've never airbrushed yet but knew I could use any acrylic paint in the gun as long as the consistency was right. The paints were 30% off so I paid a whopping $.62 per 2oz bottle. The coincidence is still wild though. 😃 Damn, I only have a pancake compressor from Harbor Freight too. What's happening here???
All right. Are these alternate universes colliding. LOL Seriously that's great that you are getting started with airbrushing. If you run into any problems and have questions. Find me on Facebook. It's Paul's Railroad also. That way we can PM and not have to use the comment section of RUclips. Take care and thanks for watching and commenting.
The inexpensive craft paints. Drop a nut or a couple of nuts in them to help mix the paint when shaking the bottle. For a mixer use a washer rwo washers that will fit through the opening. Weld or solder the washers so one sits perpindicular to the other. Then attach a 1/4 rod about 4 inches (100mm) long. Run at low speed with a cordless drill.
very informative video; thanks. may I get your opinion on T182C Airbrush, please? You have it the whole set with the compressor in Walmart for $71.19. Will it do ok for a complete beginner?
Hey Levent. Well I'm sure your going to like my answer, but I really cannot give an honest opinion on that airbrush simply because I have never used it nor do I recognize the brand name. From the images on the Walmart website it does look pretty solid and if the mini air compressor works as described that alone is almost worth the price. You never know until you try it out. It may be a great little setup. I would just make sure that it is returnable if it turns out not to be any good. Also if you do get it. Do yourself a favor and buy some specific airbrush paint when you are first learning. There is no need to put added anxiety on yourself by trying to thin out cheap craft paints at first. I use Createx airbrush paint and make sure you get their thinner as well. The mixture I usually for that is one to two drops of thinner to 5 drops of paint. And don't forget, no matter what paint you are using always strain your paint before loading up your airbrush. If you need strainers check in the description below thus video and I have Link to some great stainless steel strainers from Amazon that I have been using for years. I hope this helps. And thank you for asking a great question. Take care.
@@RoadsAndRailsHobbies wow, Paul. Thank you so much for the quick response. I really appreciate the time you have spent to answer my question. All the best..
Amazing in depth video! I have an issue, I can't find any isopropyl alcohol anywhere in my small town and buying online would cost me way too much due to shipping fees, is it possible to use any other kind of alcohol? Like ethyl or denatured alcohol?
Hey there. Well If I had to choose one. I would use Ethy alcohol. Both ethyl and denatured are similar to isopropyl alcohol. However I would not, I repeat do not use denatured alcohol. It is toxic to humans. You don't even want to touch denatured alcohol with bare skin, let alone take a chance of breathing it in. And speaking of breathing. No matter what alcohol you use, isopropyl or ethyl make sure you wear a respirator. No matter how well ventilated your painting area is. You will be in close proximity to the airbrush and what you are painting. You will still be breathing in the fumes. Thanks for watching and asking a great question. Take care.
What do you recommend for the Decoart Americana paint for thinning? I put isopropyl alcohol in it and within seconds it turned into something like chewed bubble gum.
I get that sometimes with different colors of Americana and Apple barrel paints also. I would suggest try using just regular water for paints that do that. It usually works since the paints are water based. I have never used decoart paints so I can't be 100 percent sure how well it will work with that brand, but it should since I think they are water based acrylics also. Let me know if it works out with just water. It won't dry as fast as it does using IPA to thin them however. So keep that in mind. Thank you for the great question.
I have not noticed any difference in the quality nor have I noticed any color variations between using alcohol vs water. I just prefer the alcohol simply because it flashes off much faster than water which helps the paint dry faster. Which means I can work faster. Now when I do any weathering / washes using the same acrylics I mix them with water. I think using water for washes gives me more flow and work time. Thanks for commenting.
Paul,
I have used my airbrush for several years now and have not been very satisfied with the results. Scenery, tracks, ballast etc. turned out OK but I stayed away from painting rolling stock due to splattering, clogging of the airbrush and just bad results. I use craft store paints.
Thank you so much for the suggestion to use a strainer. I diluted, diluted, diluted but my airbrush still gave bad results. Your video was the first one I have seen that recommended a strainer.
I purchased strainers, used them today and the results were incredible. I couldn’t believe how much debris was in the bottom of the strainer! My airbrush didn’t clog or splatter and the finish was incredible.
This is the first comment I have ever made on RUclips videos and I wanted to thank you for your help.
Alan. To say your comment made my week is a severe understatement. I am beyond happy that my video was able to help you. This right here sir is the biggest reason why I started this channel. To not only share in my passions but to help others where I can. Thank you so much for reaching out to me. Take care and happy railroading......
This is the best airbrushing video I've seen so far, and I watched quite a few over the last 8 or so years.
Thank you for doing this!
Thank you kindly. That is a very humbling comment. I am just glad the video was helpful. Take care.
@@RoadsAndRailsHobbies It's exactly everything that I wanted to know about why I was having so many problems with mine when I tried using it the couple of times I did.
Some people use Windex or Washer Fluid because it's cheaper, and some say to use Glycerin, but maybe those are for other kinds of paints too, I can't remember.
Your video went over everything and you demonstrated it, as well as went over the entire sprayer for how it works and how to clean it, and even take it apart and put back together, which is something I was kind of worried about because of settings... So ya, definitely thank you so much for the awesome video man! It's super appreciated!
I've been hesistant to try airbrushing, but your video was an excellent explanation of the process. I'll have to give it a go.
Do it. Once you get over the newbie tool problems that you have with learning to use any new tool. Using an airbrush will make any hobby painting look so much better.
I have watched a dozen of videos on airbrushing and can honestly say this is the most informative tutorial I have seen ! I am definely subscribing to this channel. Well done sir.👍🇨🇦
Well Dan words cannot express the feelings that you have just given me. Thank you so much for the kind words. I will do my best not to disappoint.
thank you for realizing you took it apart and didnt show us how to put it back together. really shows the effort put into a video!😊
You are welcome. Thanks for watching and commenting. I hope the video helped.
Very informative. I enjoyed you demonstrating with an actual print instead of a plastic spoon. Thank you
Hey Mark. Thank you for the comment. And it's funny you mentioned plastic spoon. Iiterally just uploaded a more condensed version of this video where I answered some common questions from viewers and I used plastic spoons to show what i was talking about. LOL. Take care.
This video is the most informative that I have seen in along time!
Thank You for that!!
Hey Brad. Thank you for the comment. I am very happy that you found my video informative. Take care.
I’m just starting with Airbrushing (modelling). I’ve watched a bunch of ‘beginners videos’ on RUclips. This is the clearest and most helpful one I’ve seen. Thank you.
Thank you very much James. I appreciate it very much.
I've never airbrushed before, but I know that I will! Just like, I know I have a good airbrush somewhere, probably in storage, and if it's not, then I will be buying one based on your recommendations... I save the videos with the best advice to my Pinterest boards so I can find them again later. Thanks so much for your walk through, recommendations and advice! I'm sure it will come in handy!
Awesome. I'm glad my videos are helping.....
Thank you Sir! I have just bought an airbrush and i feel that this will help me to not make beginners mistakes. Learn from other fellow humans 😃
Hello Mikael. I am so glad that my video was of help. If you have any questions in the future, don't hesitate to ask.
I've done this and it works perfectly. I will never again spend more on paints made specifically for airbrushed.
Phil. That is awsome. I am so glad that the video helped.
Just like "miniture" paint
You have answered every question I had regarding airbrush, very good and informative video.
Hey Roy, I am so glad to hear that I was able to help. That is why I started this channel. Thank you so much for watching and commenting. If you ever have any questions please feel free to reach out. Take care.
duuuude! those little models r so freaking cool! WTF!? I going to have to check it out!
Thank you so much Nelda. I designed and 3d printed everything I showed being painted on that video. You can check out my other videos to see more of my designs. Also I'm going to throw in a sales pitch here. 😁 If you are interested in 3d printing your own. You can buy my files pretty inexpensively at cults3d.com. Just type in SandyCreekDesigns. Thanks again for watching. Take care.
Very informative very easy to use and honestly the best airbrush video on acrylics thank you
Wow Dwayne. Thank you so much for the high praise. I'm just glad I was able to help. Take care.
You certainly get a lot of lovely colours in art acrylics for my preferred genre of models, 1930s - 1960s civillian cars :-)
Hey Brian. That's why I love those acrylics. Their so cheap that I can have many, many colors. 😁
Very informative thankyou
You are very welcome Noella. Thank you for watching and commenting. Take care.
Thank you for video answer a lot of questions I was wondering about.
Hey Don. I am very glad I was able to answer your questions. Thank you for watching and commenting. Take care.
Just getting started with a single stage Badger I inherited at an estate sale - thanks for the tips about diluting and cleaning. Wel-done and understandable!
Hey Kent. Thank you for watching and for commenting. I am so glad for the feedback on my ability present the material in an understandable way. Please keep commenting and don't be afraid to give me constructive criticism if need be. That is the best way to learn in my opinion. Take care.
Great video! Getting back into model railroading after a 30 year absence. I did tons of custom painting projects back in the day, but pretty much all of my “go to” standard products and procedures died off years ago! Scalecoat II and Floquil were the two brands of enamel that populated my paint shelf, but they’ve evidently gone, or are going, the way of the Edsel, replaced by a mind numbing array of acrylic craft paints! I’ve got an old blue Badger (200?) single action internal mix like the one you briefly showed, and I always got great results with it. About 15 years ago I dug it out to paint something non modeling related with the new fangled water based paints, and I didn’t think I’d ever get the paint off of the needle, color cup etc.! I put up the brush after an agonizing cleanup and haven’t touched it since! You’ve got me skeptically thinking about trying this stuff again, but I’m 62, and it’s dang hard to teach an old dog new tricks! Thanks for the inspiration and guidance!
Hey Tom. Thank you for the great comment. I am glad the my video has inspired you. If you do want to give airbrushing a try again with the craft grade acrylics let me go over the important points again to hopefully negate any frustrations.
1. Make sure you thin those paints down to around the consistency of milk.
2. Don't forget to run your thinned paints through a filter. This is one of the most important steps to help prevent clogs.
3. Have your item ready to be painted before loading the paint cup in the airbrush.
Remember these acrylic craft paints are water based and when we thin them with isopropyl alcohol, we are in affect making that water evaporate much faster. That is why I use the isopropyl alcohol. It makes the paint dry faster so I can put down multiple coats faster.
With that being said:
4. Once you are done painting, immediately clean your airbrush. If not you will have what you had before. The paint drying in the airbrush.
Take care and thanks again.
@@RoadsAndRailsHobbies Thanks Paul! Hoping to break out the Badger in the next week or so, and looking at upgrading to a double action in the near future. In some of the videos on other channels they talk a lot about needle size, but I don’t have a clue what mine is, or what it needs to be! Starting over from square one! Cheers!
lots of great advice here. I've definitely not been running the thinned acrylics through a strainer which explains the clogging, sputtering and uneven spray that results. Thanks for sharing.
Yeah. That makes a huge difference. When I finally figured out that I needed to strain those paints, it changed my world. As far as painting goes. LOL. Thanks for commenting. Take care.
By the way. I just subbed to your channel. I am a Star Wars super nerd. Can't wait to find some time to watch some of your build videos. I just took apart my old Revell Millennium Falcon model to rebuild it. I want to add LEDs and give it a worthy paint and weathering job.
Thanks for the great lesson. Wrestled with bad paint mixing in the past.
Hey Mike. Thank you very much. My ultimate goal with this channel is to share what I have learned and continue to learn with others. I hope it did help.
That’s a lot to unpack! Great job, brother.
Thanks Tim. Yeah I kinda went down that rabbit hole a bit going over the airbrush. LOL.
@@RoadsAndRailsHobbies haha it’s all good! The people gotta learn!
Thank you, this was a very well explained and detailed video.
Hey Randy. I'm glad to hear this video helped. Take care.
Nailed it; You do get what you paid for! For models; American company Paasche is probably the best, as it's easy for parts and services in the USA. Iwata was made under licence from the Japanese made "Olympus" brand some 40 or 50 years ago. My understanding is now Sparmax, builds several different ones for Iwata along with all the Iwata labeled compressors. I've tested and use the gravity feed Sparmax SP-3 airbrush for over 8 years and I've been teaching airbrush techniques both here on Australia and before in the USA since the 1970s. It's about the same as an iwata HP-C, and I do own both models along with some German brands.
Hey Ken. Lots of great info there thank you for sharing.
I've got two airbrushes. I use my Badger Anthem 155 for acrylic paint and my Chinese (Harbor Freight) one for lacquer based paint. My Badger will paint anything i need for model railroading. I like the Badger because you don't need any tools to dismantle it for cleaning. Everything is finger tight plus the fact that it is made in the USA! I think my needle is a .5 as it will empty a jar in just a few seconds. I've never had the need for finer needle, but you can get them down to .3 or .15. Even though it is a siphon type I generally just use a color cup unless I'm painting something big like spraying shelves with a gloss acrylic finish. I really don't like the Badger paints as the dollar store cheap acrylics are even better than the Badger paint. I've never used any of the "pricey" paints like Vallejo. I think the brands are Apple Barrel and Craftsman acrylics.
Have you ever encountered an acrylic paint that just won't mix with alcohol? I have and used some non-ammonia Windex to thin. I use Q-tips, dental brushes and pipe cleaners to clean my airbrush. I also use some chap stick to lube the threads as it makes a good thread sealer.
Cheers from eastern TN
Yes I have had several colors from different brands of craft acrylic paints that immediately gum up when I mix them with IPA. Oh and that is a great idea with the chapstick. I never would have thought about that.
Thank you Paul for showing everyone that strainer. Straining paint after thinning is very important. Real body/paint shops always do it before shooting a car, 1:1 scale. Most tutorials we see on RUclips are a guy opening a fresh bottle of paint and working away. Now us modellers at home may have opened and used a colour many times, so that means air is in that jar drying the paint or it is getting thick. What is the shelf life of paint anyway ? No wonder some people get put off with airbrushing cuz of all the problem variables. What would be the minimum paint nozzle size to spray craft paint .35 ? Just asking. My favorite paint / thinner combo is Tamiya and their brand lacquer thinner as the lacquer thinner reduces tip dry by cleaning the needle as you spray.
Hey Gordon. Man you brought up a lot of good points and questions. Airbrushing can be a finicky beast. Like you said. There are so many variables that go into an Airbrushing session. Mess one up and you'll be fighting with that airbrush all day. I have personally never shot any lacquer paints. It's always been acrylics. But yes using acrylics, especially thinned with isopropyl alcohol will definitely cause some paint drying on the needle. My way of negating that is small fast paint sessions, then I either run some water through the airbrush followed by airbrush cleaner if I'm just changing colors, or I'll tear it down and clean it well if I'm done. I have made it a habit of working like that because of how fast acrylics thinned with alcohol dry inside of your airbrush. I am shooting with a .35 needle. I don't see the need to go any smaller for general Airbrushing. I mean let's be honest. If I'm using micron sized needle while creating some fine art, I don't think I'm going to be using cheap acrylics. LOL. As far as shelf life goes. I figure as long as I can bring the paint back to life with thinners and it hasn't literally became a solid mass in the bottle, hey I'll use it if I need that color. Thank you Gordon for watching and for the great conversation. Take care.
Thanks for the video, it was a great tutorial for a beginner like me.
❤️ 🇵🇹
I'm so happy it helped.
I just started airburshing and have been using water to thin out the paint and it has not been going very well. I pretty much given up but after watching this and seeing you use alcohol to thin it out, that didn't even cross my mind. So I'm going to try again
That's awesome to hear that you are going to continue airbrushing. Alcohol is a decent way to thin craft paints, but it dries super fast. If you want another good way to thin them that gives you a lot more working time and is much more forging, then check out my video on thinning craft paints with windshield washer fluid. Thanks for watching and commenting. Take care.
Great video, you covered so much useful info. Thank you.
You are very welcome Don. And thank you for commenting.
Thank you, some very useful tips here.
Hey Greg. Thank you very much for the comments. I am glad my videos were able to help. Take care.
Thank you for this awesome tutorial, the kaopectate cup make me chuckle, my dad used to save those too ❤️ and the I can’t believe is not butter round containers lol
Ha. I must have learned to keep useful "junk" from my dad. Heck I'm 48 and I still find myself rummaging through the use nuts and bolts container my dad used to collect them in before I was even born. LOL
I'm just starting out with this hobby and this information was great! thanks for making this video.....new sub!
Thank you Jeff for watching and subbing. I am glad to hear my video was helpful..... Take care.
Simple but good solid advice. Thank you 👍
Thank you David. I appreciate the comment.
2nd time watching your video! Well detailed. Thanks for teaching!
Thank you Christopher for watching several times and commenting. I am glad that I was able to present helpful information. Take care.
Very nice video well explained detailed thank you.
Thank you very much.
I was recently given a little CA$70 starter kit, came with a little battery powered compressor that charges via USB-C. Probably not the greatest equipment out there, but it's been a blast learning to use it, and this video helps a ton as I already have a bunch of those cheap bottles of acrylic paint.
Just keep on practicing. Just be careful with the cheap craft paints. They are definitely not as easy to work with as airbrush specific paints, and some crafts paints just won't thin down. Enough to use period. If the paint appears to be really thick in the bottle, then I suggest skipping it. I have a couple of different shades of black that just won't work. As well as some white colors. Oh and don't forget to filter your paints after they have been thinned before you load your airbrush. That is the most important part of the process. Thank you for watching and commenting. Take care and happy railroading.......
@@RoadsAndRailsHobbies Thanks for the extra tips! Have you messed around with extender (retarder) or is isopropyl pretty much the go-to for this? Thankfully most the bottles I have seem pretty low viscosity, but I'll definitely have to nab a strainer before I give anything a proper go.
Hey Anator. I have used createx airbrush paint reducer as well as just plain old tap water. The reducer works pretty much the same as the IPA. The water however doesn't work as well. I am going to try another method. I don't want to say what it is because I plan on creating a video over the subject in the near future.
@@RoadsAndRailsHobbies Good stuff dude, will definitely keep an eye out for that
Nice!
I love the iwata mat.
Your excellent tutorial covers much more than the title would indicate. Being new to airbrushing I found it all useful but think it could’ve been separated into about three separate videos. Anyway, liked and subscribed.
Thank you Wakely Wanderer. That video is what happens when I go off script. LOL. My brain goes into overdrive and I keep talking. Thank you for subscribing as well. Take care.
Do that all times with my Apple brand acyclic an homemade thinner ! Thanks 😎👍🏻
Honestly, I prefer the bottom feed/siphon brushes. The gravity feeds are ok, but those seem like a little more work when it comes to quick color change.
Also a lot of the gravity feeds don’t even come with a cap/lid, which makes it more libel for spilling.
I’ve started with the single action Badger in 1990. I moved away and upgraded quick lol.
I have never had a gravity feed airbrush that didn't come with a lid. I have a couple of siphon feeds. I've never had much luck with them. But then again, they were never really good airbrushes.
Amazing video. One of the best I’ve seen on RUclips. Great job.
Wow gwchant. That is one heck of a nice comment. I appreciate it very much. Thank you and take care.
In O scale we have large models to paint, so I went with the siphon cup version or your Iwata.. the HP-BCS. One very important upgrade is to use the rear cap from the Super Micron series of Iwata. It gives you a very fine adjust rear travel limit adjust. They DO sell them as a separate sale item, HP KTR. This is great when working up close, for absolute consistency, or to limit the paint flow in weathering.
Learning things about paintihg. A 6mm,1/4" stainless steel nut dropped in each paint bottle will make a good mixer.
Thanks for the video
You are very welcome. Thank you for watching and for taking the time to comment. Take care......
Nice presentation, Thanks
Thank you for watching Bill. I appreciate it. And I appreciate the comment.
THE needle and tip for the CS is interchangeable with the HP BCS. That helps you get even finer lines with the siphon feed HP-BCS when doing shirts etc. They dont tell you unless you ask.
Awsome info. Thanks for that.
Great Video!! Gonna try some dollar store paint myself. Do you ever have issues with paint bubbling in the bowl, or out the cap vent hole.
LOL. Yeah I've had that problem. One of two reasons that I have come across. One it happens if I way overfill the paint cup, but the most usual suspect is a clogged needle. Either there is a physical clog like a large piece of pigment, or the paint is super thick. Thanks for the comment.
@@RoadsAndRailsHobbies thanks that's kinda what I was thinking time to start filtering my paint through a screen
Yeah. I even filter my createx paints which are airbrush paints that are supposed to be able to be used straight from the bottle.
Hey, great video, just what I was looking for, thanks very much.
Hey Eric. I am very glad my video was helpful. Thank you for watching and for commenting. I really appreciate it.
IWATA is a really nice brand. Paasche has been my go to for over 30 years. But I sometimes cross over once in a while.
I only ever had one Paasche airbrush. It's a single action. Someday I would like a harder Steinbeck infinity airbrush.
Thank you
You're welcome.
I still have and use my first airbrush which was a single action Paasche that I got back in the 80s along with their D500 Diaphragm compressor. Definitely wasn't the best but it's amazing it all still works after all these years.
Raymond. That brings back memories. I started out with a no name double action airbrush and an old Pasche blue diaphragm compressor. My lord did I hate that compressor. No on/off switch. Loud as all get out and man did it get hot. When harbor freight came to my area that was when I could afford a decent small air compressor just for airbrushing. Thanks for watching and commenting. Take care.
@@RoadsAndRailsHobbies yes that compressor will definitely keep your feet warm as well as everyone in the house awake while you work. I put an inline switch on the power cord. I use one of the harbor freight fortress ultra quiet compressors now but the old blue passche still comes out sometimes for nostalgia. I'm using a fairly cheap double action airbrush but all I'm doing is painting models for myself so don't need anything expensive.
I built a magnetic stirr out of an old computer fan and i mix paint in it, its much easier and allows me to do other stuff till it mixes, works greatbto make custom colors
Hey Beasley. You should make a video. I would love to learn how to make one for myself. Thank you.
@@RoadsAndRailsHobbies there are a lot of videos that can show you how, you can 3d print the box or use a cheap wood box all you need is a old cooling fan from a laptop or computer or buy online for dollars you will need a strong earth magnet and a old 12v dc charger to power it, then cut a little iron slug and 3d pring a coating or coatbit in glue stick
@@RoadsAndRailsHobbies oh and you can get a cheap potentiometer (speed control)
Thanks Beasley. Thank you for the info. I'm pretty sure I already have all of the parts you mentioned even a potentiometer.
What a great video! Thanks!
Thanks again George.
Thanks for sharing. Such a great video as it was very informative. Couple of questions, does it matter what percentage of isopropyl alcohol you use? And, is that better than using paint thinner? Thanks
Thank you Cliff for watching and commenting. For the IPA, I try to use 70%. IPA dries out the paint quickly ans the higher the percentage the quicker it works. I have never used paint thinner so I can't answer that question unfortunately. Take care.
Wow I did it😁THANK YOU SIR👍🏻
Whoop Whoop. I'm glad to hear your having success with the cheap paints. Keep it up.
My first airbrush was a cheap, no brand name, made out of chinese-ium piece of garbage. It was difficult to work with and after just a few minutes using it my finger started hurting. I think it started leaking paint around 2 or 3 hours of total time using it. I'm with you on buying an inexpensive airbrush from a well recognized manufacturer.
I'm a total newb to airbrushing, this was really great. My biggest takeaway is that I can use the el cheapo hobby acrylics to do what I want to do.
You sure can. But remember, especially if you are just starting out and have little experience with thinning paints for an airbrush, the cheap acrylic paints viscosities vary so widely that there is not just one holy grail of paint to thinner ratios. With that being said. Take your time and don't get frustrated if it doesn't work the first time. Just keep trying. It took me a long time to get the feel for mixing these cheap paints and I still mess it up sometimes. Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@RoadsAndRailsHobbies I've brush painted with acrylics for many years, so I'm used to thinning them when painting on canvas and art paper, but always used water. The idea of using alcohol appeals to me, going to give it a real go; just was wondering how well the thinned with alcohol paint stored long-term.. I plan to do them one at a time as I need a color, but would make a batch larger than needed and save the rest for other projects and times.
Hey Deerex. Long term storage is not viable when thinning with alcohol. The alcohol dries out the paint super fast. It will start to get thick and gummy in some instances in just a couple of hours. The longest usable custom mixed color I had, lasted about five days in an air tight container. There is no reason why you can't thin it with water. It just takes longer to dry then using isopropyl alcohol. However it should store much longer thinned with water. Thanks for the great question 👍.
@@RoadsAndRailsHobbies Thanks. Water it will be. The longer dry time doesn't bother me.
Lots of good info here! Thanks. Transitioning from rattle can to airbrush for my WWII aircraft. Any luck or tips with decanting spray paints?
Thanks for watching and commenting. As far as decanting an aerosol can, I have not. I definitely think it would make more of a mess than it's worth..
Great video. Very informative. Questions though. If you have an object that requires two or more different colors, what do you do? I assume the answer is use something to mask the different sections, but what do you use. Masking tape, paint tape, or something else? Is there some type of technique you should follow to get the best results? How do you mask a section that's already been painted so that you don't damage the look? Thanks.
I usually just use painters tape / masking tape to mask with. Here is an example of my workflow for a brick building with smooth concrete style corners. I will paint the entire structure the main brick color first. Once that has cured I will use masking tape and mask off the walls on both sides of the cement corners. I Pay special attention to the edge of the tape that runs along the corners that I am going to airbrush. By that I mean I rub my fingers up and down that edge to make the best seal possible. When I airbrush the corners I try to keep my airbrush perpendicular to the corners and try not to spay heavily where the tape edges are. Many light coats. Especially the first coat. As that coat will help seal the edge of the tape. With all of the being said, the nature of 3d printed objects, especially structures with wall textures, you will never be able to completely prevent some paint seeping under the tape in spots. All I do once I remove the tape is to go back with a fine brush and the original brick color and touch up where the paint seeped under the tape. It's not usually much.
@@paulratliff4116 Thank you very much. That is very helpful.
Have you found that the alcohol bleaches the paint a bit? Every time I’ve done this, it dries significantly lighter than the bottle. Brush touch ups with straight paint don’t blend well.
First off. Sweet avatar. Love Lego. To answer your question, I haven't noticed much of a difference myself, but to be honest I also haven't compared a color to itself in that way either. Could it be that the paint brush is putting on a thicker coat of paint as compared to what the airbrush does? Regardless I don't use IPA as much anymore. I have converted to using blue windshield washer fluid to thin my cheap acrylics with. I have done a video over that method as well if you are interested.
@@RoadsAndRailsHobbiesthank you for the info. I’ll look up the video on the washer fluid. Interesting!
Legos are fun. Especially when you’re I. Your 40s. 😂
I used your info to repair a pinball playfield. Should be one of the latest videos on my channel if you’re interested! Thanks for the help.
Great Video! Thanks a lot!
Thank you for watching and commenting Heiki. I am glad it was helpful.
Thanks, Happy New year 2022
Thank you for watching and commenting Vincente. Happy new year.
Great video and gives me a good starting point when I get ready to start air brushing. Have you used these paints for model car bodies and if so what kind of clear coat would you recommend?
Hey Moparmarc68. I have not used these for painting model car bodies. My hobby is model railroading. I have painted railroad rolling stock, however I mainly use matte paints. I'm sure you will be wanting to use glossy paints. I have used some glossy paints with the same thinning technique for painting passenger cars with good results. But just like with the matte paints you will most likely have some trial and error when it comes to thinning the glossy paints as well. The viscosity of the different colors will most likely vary just like in the matte paints. A couple of other recommendations. The glossy paints do not dry nearly as fast as the matte paints, so take it slow and build up light coats or you will definitely get runs, ask me how I know, LOL. You can use a hair dryer to help speed up the drying times between coats. I would do that mainly so the cheap acrylic paints are not sitting in your airbrush drying. Always make sure you clean your airbrush when you are done painting with the cheap acrylics first thing. As far as top coats go. I go back and forth between Krylon and Rustoleum rattle can clear coats, whatever is available at the time. I don't see the reason to spent so much more money on Testors clear coats when their pretty much the same thing. Thanks for commenting.
Super helpful episode! I've seen some people use IPA to clean their airbrushes out with instead of cleaner. What are your thoughts on that?
As long as you are using water based acrylics, then IPA should be just fine. I prefer to use the airbrush cleaners that are recommended for the paint that I am using, which is usually createx brand paints. Plus I know that airbrush cleaner is formulated so that it doesn't hurt the rubber o-rings in the airbrush.
@@RoadsAndRailsHobbies Interesting... is IPA known to degrade rubber, and if so (potentially dumb question alert), would a 70% IPA be significantly less harmful to rubber than a 91% IPA?
Hey Loren. You should be fine using IPA in any strength. I wouldn't soak it over night in it, but for general cleaning it shouldn't be a problem at all.
helping me out so much
That's awesome New York. That is all I want to do is help others. Thank you for watching.
Is there a ratio for thinning thicker craft paint with 91% alcohol? For example, maybe 2:1? I’m unfamiliar with the consistency of airbrush paint to have a baseline. To refer to consistency (thickness of pigment) with watercolor they use food-type terms like tea, coffee, cream, butter consistency. But if you can relate it to some fluid I might be familiar with that would be helpful. I’d definitely be interested to know how thin or thick the resulting mixture should be to put through an airbrush? Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge with us! ❤
Hey Amanda. There is no one set ratio for thinning craft paints for the simple reason that you just found out. Their thickness varies from brand to brand and even from color to color in the same brands. I shoot for the consistency of milk, or I guess a little thinner than a creamy consistency. Just remember using alcohol with cause the paint to dry extremely fast. Thar is why I use alcohol, so I can put down more layers faster. With that being said, do not let the paint just sit in your airbrush. Take care and thanks for the question.
If you don’t like the Aztec, I’d be glad to take it off your hands. 😉🤓🤪 I got one when they first came out. It’s long worn out because the “hose” (integrated urethane? silicone?) deteriorated shortly after the dark gray parts separated at the seams. It did last for several years though.
I would love to get another Aztec Airbrush with available nozzle assemblies, with a threaded nip for a detachable hose. Until I can afford the new Aztec kit, I’ll just keep using my $20 & $45 Airbrush Master “standard” dual action, and pistol grip dual action, respectively. Just need to decide if I want the Aztec first or upgrade from on demand compressor to a 1gal California Air 59db compressor.
Thanks for the offer but even though i don't use the Aztec anymore it has a lot sentimental value to me.
Excellent video - new to the airbrushing scene, this was extremely informative (new sub). Thanks!👍✌
Thank you for subbing and I am glad the video was useful. Take care.
Ah, I forgot this video was about craft paints, there's a solid 15mins of talking about airbrushes, brands, upkeep, etc. I should have paid attention to the chapter labels. I worked with a heavy body white out of a tube the other day, used my homemade thinner to work it down a bit, just manually mixing it, but then I poured that into a dropper bottle with some ball bearings and let the vortex mixer finish smoothing it out. It worked pretty well!
That's awesome. I have always had issues airbrushing with white craft paints.
The first thing I do with craft paints is top the bottle off with thinner and mix them really well.
That's an interesting idea. I don't think I would do that simply because I still use the same paints to apply with a brush and sometimes I want them thick, depending on the application of course. Thanks for the comment. That's definitely thinking outside of the box. I
love getting new ideas from everyone.
That's a bad process and usually advised from others in videos that have no clue. Keep your paints unedited in your bottles and mix in a different container. You can clean out old used up paint bottles for doing this and only mix what you need. Some thinners can have a moisture reduction property and will cause your paints to goop up like cottage cheese over time.
The best reason is also depending on the work you may thin your paints a little less or more with each project, pre thinning unless you remember what ratio you used can cause issues there as well, but mostly it's to keep your paints as pure as possible till needed.
I honestly had my doubts about using those craft paints but you set my fears to rest. My only question is do they mostly dry with a flat finish? And what clear do you recommend for a high gloss? Epoxy, UV ?
Hey TB. Sorry for the late response. Busy weekend. Still be careful using the craft paints. Some still don't mix well with IPA. It's not brand or color specific, but some of them get almost rubbery very quickly when thinned with IPA. So just keep an eye out for it. And I use mostly flat craft paints because of what I am painting. I have however used gloss craft paints they do dry glossy. I find however that the flat paints dry faster so I stick with them and if I want a gloss finish I just seal them in with a gloss clear. I use either krylon or rustoleum for both the gloss clear and the mat clear coats. Either one works great. I have never used an epoxy to gloss clear before so I cannot speak on that. Thank you for watching and commenting. Take care and happy railroading.......
@@RoadsAndRailsHobbies
Thank you for taking the time to reply. I’ll be doing some modeling but for the most part I’m going to be doing fishing lures. They will be taking a beating. I’ve decided to build an UV light box and go that route on those. I’m subscribed so keep up with the wonderful help. Thank you again.
Learned a few things, thxs. I build a couple of models a year, i used to own an Iwata Eclipse i bought new. I had only problems with it, i know it’s me but i finnaly sold it.
I bought an el cheapo one online from China, same look, gravity fed, pretty sturdy $40 shipped.
I tried it a few times and loved it so much i bought a second one.
I have used the first one for overs 10 years and it works fine, no sputter, no headaches, easy to clean.
The 2nd one is still new in box never used. Go figure 👍🏻
Why do you remove the tip to airbrush? Sorry i missed why.
Thxs for the tutorial on thinning these cheap craft paints.
A guy glosses them sometimes and it seems they could be airbrushed on model cars, what do you think?
Final question, you don’t prime first? Do you dullcote after?
Thxs again
Thanks for the great questions. Removing the tip for me is an old habit left over from learning fine art painting. For one it allows me to get closer to the work for finer line detail. That is more for fine art painting. The big plus however is that sometimes the tip will get paint build up on it and it could come off as a spatter. Ask me how I know. LOL. As far as model car painting. I am currently working on one. I am using the cheap acrylics on it. Since model car bodies are so smooth I did use a rattle can primer first. Then I sprayed on my color. Now I noticed that the cheap acrylics did not give me a smooth finish like createx paints do, however for my project it didn't matter to me. Possibly if you put on enough coats you could wet sand it to get a smooth finish. Anyhow, I then applied a matte clear coat just to protect the paint. I am building a general lee and plan on painting the flag on the roof and the numbers on the doors using stencils. After I'm am done with all of that I am going to rattle can clear it with a glossy top coat. I hope I answered your questions. Take care and thanks again.
@@RoadsAndRailsHobbies You certainly did. Thxs a lot 👍🏻
Same story with me at first i had a cheap airbrush from amazon which came with my compressor and dont get me wrong it was a step up from brush painting but i decided after 1month or so id invest in a Iwata eclipse and OH MY BABY JEBUS the thing is a dream. Next upgrade will be a proper compressor maybe one with 2 lines so i could have a detail airbrush and a area airbrush and definitely another Iwata :P
LOL. I knew I wasn't the only person in the world to experience the "Get what you paid for" when it comes to airbrushes. Check out airbrush manifolds on Amazon. I don't know what type of compressor you are using or are planning to use in the future, but with the manifold you can have several airbrushes hooked up at once. I personally run a cheap harbor freight 3 gallon pancake air compressor for my airbrushes. It is loud though. I see that harbor freight now is carrying what they call quiet air compressors. One of those will be my future investment. Take care and thank you for commenting.
Aloha Paul Nice Job I needed this. Picked up an air brush with compressor about 2 yrs ago at a garage sale around $25 for a Badger. I'm looking forward to your buildings. The coal gondolas I downloaded came out good. I'll put some of my build notes for them over in the comments on Cults for you. Nothing bad just detail stuff for assembly.
I love the thought process you go through in design having the floors and light holders in the buildings is great and the posts (pillars) allows one to sub separate the floors for rooms with different lighting.
Thanks for you input as always Peter. I didn't get around to mentioning too much about the buildings just because that is not what the this video was about. Since you mentioned it though. The pillars were not only designed to hold up the next floor, their other purpose is to use as back stops to put printed out interior scenes and have them lit from behind through the hole in the base / floor. Keep the comments coming brother. Oh and don't forget to check out my Facebook page, Paul's Railroad. You can message me through there and share any modeling you have done. I would love to see what you have come up with.
I really enjoyed your video and at the same time learnt loads along the way as I'm very new to airbrushing! Is there a way to find out the percentage of 'colour' pigment in the paints?
Hi Andrew. Thank you for the kind words. I am glad that my videonwas able to help. As far as the percentage of colour pigments go, unfortunately I kind of doubt it. Even if we were to ask the manufacturer I don't think they would tell us. You know it's their formula kind of thing. From my experience it seems to me that the lighter the paint, the "larger" the pigments are. at least in the inexpensive craft paints. whites and light grays are the hardest to mix because of their pigments being so large and not wanting to break down. Do you currently have an airbrush? If so. What brand and model are you using?
@@RoadsAndRailsHobbies Thank you for replying, I find all this very interesting I must get out more lol. I've been saving up for a BARTSHARP Airbrush and twin cylinder air compressor but when I get enough money together a Grandchild's Birthday or Bill pops up so they get always get the priority. But I must have been on the good list this year, my Wife and Children have bought me the Bartsharp Airbrush and Compressor along with ranges of acrylic paints etc. So I'm literally like a child at Christmas lol. We've had a house full of Grandchildren for the last two days so not ideal to get out my new toys, but I'll definitely be practicing from tomorrow onwards finger's crossed. I've done excessive research over the last 6 month's or more and was recommended over and over the Bartsharp Airbrush equipment sold in the UK. I've seen one guy who reviews the airbrush. BARTSHARP 183K, he uses the Iwata and he can't believe the standard and quality of the Bartsharp183K. I've spoken to people who also use the 183K and they have all stated the exact same. The only problem is that as soon as they come in stock they have been bought. There's one guy who teaches airbrushing and he's bought all his students the same airbrushing kit! I can honestly say that I've had not had one wrong word said about them! So you can imagine how excited I am to use mine. I normally do a lot of Pyrography (burning image's and text), a sample of my early work can be seen in my profile pic! But I like a challenge and I'm not finding the Pyrography challenging enough where as the airbrushing will feed my hunger if you know what I mean lol. It's all very new and hopefully challenging.
My apologies for the long reply, take care my friend and may I take this opportunity to wish you and your family a Happy & Healthy New Year.👍😷👍🏴
Andrew. Never apologize for long messages. I love hearing from everyone. I am glad you were on the nice list this year. 😁. I myself have dabbled in pyography a little bit. Then I bought a laser engraver. LOL. Let me know how your airbrushing adventures turn out. Happy new year to you and your family. Take care brother.
@@RoadsAndRailsHobbies ooooooh Laser Engraver... That's cheating lol. Only joking they're very handy to have, I prefer the challenge... Sometimes lol.
Hey Andrew. No matter what we use. It's still a challenge. LOL. I bought a cheap laser. The Ortur Master 2. I want to try my hand at designing HO scale wooden structure kits. I'm sure like you, I absolutely love being creative. So here's to new adventures. 🍺
I have a Badger 150. It's a syphon type. It works brilliant, but you cant seem to use small amounts of paint, which you can with a gravity type. I make models and sometimes just need bits of paint.
Horses for courses I suppose.
Great channel, just found you.👍
Thank you Paul for sharing. I have some siphon fed airbrushes also. Always had problems when the paint cup was getting empty, I would get spitting from the airbrush. Great name by the way. 😁
@@RoadsAndRailsHobbies Thanks for taking the time to reply, means something. Like I said just found your channel now a subscriber. Paul, it is a great name isn't it. All the best fella.🍷👍
Use the the siphon cup not the bottle for light work and you may have to raise your PSI a bit. Siphon feeds require more pressure to work. Paasche H usually comes with the metal cup that slides into the feed end, some brushes don't come with it but it can be had from many LHS stores for a few bucks.
I use a sonic parts cleaner to mix the paint just put the container in the bowel and turn it on.
Russell. That's a great idea. You should post a video showing it. Thanks for watching and commenting. I appreciate it. Take care.
Great video. I was wondering if i used 71% Isopropyl would it not dry as quickly, giving me more working time?
Thanks
Hey Bill. I have used both 71% and 91%. You are correct. The 71 will give you a little more working time. I however rarely use IPA anymore. I'm now using plain old blue windshield washer fluid now. It doesn't turn the acrylic craft paints into a rubbery blob.
@@RoadsAndRailsHobbies
Thank you for the info about the windshield washing fluid.
Some questions, if you mix with alcohol and put it into a small glass bottle, how long will it keep? If mixing with water, do you just use tap/filtered water, or distilled water? Thanks for the video!!
Hey Jonah. The only time I keep paint for an extended period of time is when I mix a custom color for a project and I only keep it for as long as it takes me to get that project painted, just in case I need to make any touch ups. I have kept paint for as long as a week in glass jars before I was finished with the project and disposed of the paint. I wouldn't suggest running it through your airbrush after a couple of days though because it will start to jell up in that glass jar. I use the paint I keep to touch up with a regular paint brush. Remember if you are going to run these cheap acrylics through your airbrush, clean, clean ,clean it immediately after your done painting. And I wouldn't be doing hour long paint sessions without at least wiping your paint cup out periodically and running some good airbrush cleaner through your brush. As far as water goes. I usually just use tap water. I mean if you have distilled water that would probably be better. Definitely less to no impurities in that. Thanks for the great questions.
What are your thoughts on using plain blue windshield washer fluid?
Well I really can't speak on subject only because I've never used it or looked into it. I know you can use plain windex that is ammonia free. I don't know how similar the two products are. Thanks for commenting.
Great tutorial! Glad I found this channel, subbed.
Thank you schadowolf for the comment and for subbing. I appreciate it.
@@paulratliff4116 Had to rewatch this as now have a new airbrush and mini-compressor for my train 'workspace'. Getting ready to paint my first styrene model. Again thanks for sharing this great info! Quick question - can't you use alcohol to clean instead of a specialized cleaner?
Technically if you are using water based paints you could just use water. You my just have to "scrub" a little harder. I would use isopropyl alcohol to clean it with. I wouldn't use any real harsh solvents though.
Paul has the vibe cant wait to see 50k subs
This guy know what he's talking about!
Thanks Pete. I appreciate it brother.
Hello again. Since you are doing some informative experiments, may I ask you a question: Can we use tile and ceramic paint with an airbrush? Have you ever tried, or would you consider trying? Would it harm the airbrush? There are transparent tile and ceramic paints (glass and porcelain paint) that in my opinion are very similar to the transparent airbrush paints.
Hey Levent. I have never thought of using ceramic paints through and airbrush. I don't know the properties of that type if paint. In other words I don't know if you could filter the paint like you should all paints. If you can filter it, then I don't see why you couldn't use it. I would use a cheap airbrush the first time, just in case that type of paint would damage it. And I would definitely wear some form of breathing protection. "You should always wear breathing protection". And as always. Make sure you clean your airbrush immediately after painting. If you try it, let us all know.
Great video! Some questions!
How much of the cleaner do you use for that bottle to last a decade??
Do you need to seal the acrylic with some sort of finish?
I couldn’t tell, did you use a primer?
LOL. Not much at all. I do my initial clean with straight up water. Then I fill the paint reservoir about half full with the actual airbrush cleaner. And I don't spray it completely out. I leave enough in the reservoir to be able to twist up a corner of a paper towel to stick down in the paint reservoir to kinda scrub it out. I use that same damp paper towel to wipe down the needle and other parts. Keep in mind though the usage of airbrush cleaner is very subjective. I don't paint every day, or heck I may even go several months between painting sessions. Just depending on what I'm working on. Thanks for commenting.
As far as sealing goes. I don't seal my structures simply because they are not handled very much and I have found that no matter what type of top coat I use they all dull down the finish to some degree. Anything that is going to be handed often I will use a clear coat. Most of the time it is a matte clear coat. Say if I'm painting rolling stock. Unless it is top coated the acrylic will scratch off fairly easily with just your fingernail.
And no I don't normally use a primer for 3d printed objects. Most 3d printed objects, especially my structures, have enough of a texture that I don't feel the need personally to take that extra step. Also I still kinda give it a prime coat. I put the first coat down pretty lightly and use that as a primer. Now if I were to be painting super smooth objects like, say an injection molded model I would definitely use some kind of primer to help the paint adhere to the smooth object. Or if I need to smooth out an object a bit, I may use a filler primer to fill the small imperfections. Thanks for asking.
Excellent! If you dilute the acrylic cheap paint with alcohol, does it affect durability of adherence? Any economical paintbrush you recommend for beginners? Thanks!
Sorry for the late response. Was on vacation for the last two weeks. Adding the alcohol does not affect the durability or adhesion. Remember however these are cheap acrylics and depending on the surface your are painting they will adhere differently. The more porous the material the stronger the bond. For example, wood, very strong bond, plastic not as strong and will scratch with your fingernail. I top coat all of my plastic items I paint that are going to be handled with either a matte or gloss sealant. That helps with the durability. As far as airbrushes go. It is best to stick with a name brand. I like Iwata. They have entet level models you can purchase for around 100 bucks. Thanks for the question
Great info from start to finish. I want to paint something now!
Thank you so much, Cindy. Now get to painting. 😁
Hi - Just found your channel - Very nice work - great videos - New to airbrushing (bought it - not used yet - still watching videos! I looked at Amazon for those strainers you are using. I didn't find them - can you give a description (mesh size, etc.) - link - to them? Some tubers show a list of supplies and links in the text -doing the work for us!! Can't wait to watch more of your work. Thank you so much. The only thing missing was where you went back to assemble the airbrush and didn't show inserting the throttle button - just a novice comment!
Thanks for the kind words. I'll attach a link here. I have just recently became an Amazon Associate so I have started putting links in my newer videos. So moving forward they will all have links to the items I'm using. Thanks for watching.
amzn.to/3r0EsXT
So I'm just curious. What is your true passion? I'm assuming it's model railroading in N scale. I have a passion for both air brushing and N scale model railroads. But they are from 2 different passions. I got into air brushing because I ride motorcycles and have custom painted a few of my own with an airbrush. I have an Iwata Eclipse SBS and a Iwata Custom Micron C which I am not good enough to take full advantage of. But I have never really used my airbrush on my N scale layout except to paint backdrops. Most of the buildings I have are from kits but I have never seen much as far as paint it yourself kits. I think we have a lot in common.
Hey there MrMotionmac. My true passion is to be creative. I love modeling in general. I started this channel talking about model railroading because model railroading brings in every aspect of being creative for me. Diorama building, painting, model building and designing my own objects such as buildings and rolling stock, along with a plethora of greeblies to add to scenes. I've always really loved painting. Painting for model railroading is usually more weathering to make something look well used. Which don't get me wrong, that is a whole creative side that I really enjoy. However I like pretty shiny things as well and that is why I started painting diecast cars and slot cars. To showcase a totally different side of painting and modeling. But in the end I just really love being creative. It's almost an addiction. Thank you so much for watching and asking a great question. Take care and happy railroading......
Hello Paul...Is it better a 0.5 needle and not a 0.3 with cheap paint...tanks a lot
Hello Pierre. Yes a .5 needle would allow easier paint flow with thicker pigmented paints. If all you are planning on doing is just putting down large areas of coverage and not concerned with any finer detail painting, then I say, go for it. I only use a .3 needle and just make sure my paint is thin enough. Don't get me wrong. It is definitely trial and error when thinning paints, especially ones I've never used before. However I like to have the finer control of a .3 needle. Take care brother and thank you for watching and asking a great question.
Can you please tell me the link to order the sieve or strainer you used to filter paint please. Im a total beginner. Thanks for the best lesson yet
Hey Susan. If you go back to that video there are links in the description of all the items I use including the strainers. Thank you for watching. Take care.
What about the inside top of the building ? Thanks for the tutorial.
I'm sorry, but I'm confused as to what you are asking.
I had cheapo Amazon airbrushes for a while. I was positive there was something wrong with them....after I gained a little more experience, I figured it out.......wet/dry 2000 grit, followed by metal polish on the needle....and spent money on better quality nozzles (as much as the airbrush cost originally)... But now I have several cheapo airbrushes that are on par with the iawata neo. But in all reality, I would have spent less time on a neo.
Depends on what you have more of, money or time
Oh and createx 4050 changed my life. Mixes with any water based acrylic, and turns it into acrylic urethane.(it's the only way to do lexan rc car bodies)
Doesn't just make a more durable finish, but also seems to help the paint flow out better on the work(better atomization flatter finish, less texture.
Ryu. Great advice. I will have to pick some of that up and give it a try. Thank you.
CAN YOU PAINT WITH THE CUP CAP ON? I SEE ALOT OF PEOPLE TAKE IT OFF JUST WONDERING. I JUST STARTED AIR BRUSHING YOU VIDIO IS VERY INFORMATIVE THANK YOU
Hey Charles. Thank you for the kind words. And you most definitely can paint with the cap on the paint reservoir. If you notice the cap should have a tiny hole in the center of it that allows air to come in while you are painting so there is no vacuum problem. I paint with my cap on almost all the time. The only time I take it off is if I think I may be getting f close to running out of paint and I want to keep an eye on it. If you run the airbrush out of paint it tends to spit and sputter which could ruin what you are painting. It's totally up to you whether you put the cap on or not. Take care
This is beyond weird! Yesterday, I bought that exact Iwata spray gun (Neo by Iwata gravity feed $60) AND that exact brand of paints at Hobby Lobby. Different colors but still! I've never airbrushed yet but knew I could use any acrylic paint in the gun as long as the consistency was right. The paints were 30% off so I paid a whopping $.62 per 2oz bottle. The coincidence is still wild though. 😃
Damn, I only have a pancake compressor from Harbor Freight too. What's happening here???
All right. Are these alternate universes colliding. LOL Seriously that's great that you are getting started with airbrushing. If you run into any problems and have questions. Find me on Facebook. It's Paul's Railroad also. That way we can PM and not have to use the comment section of RUclips. Take care and thanks for watching and commenting.
The inexpensive craft paints. Drop a nut or a couple of nuts in them to help mix the paint when shaking the bottle. For a mixer use a washer rwo washers that will fit through the opening. Weld or solder the washers so one sits perpindicular to the other. Then attach a 1/4 rod about 4 inches (100mm) long. Run at low speed with a cordless drill.
Great idea. 👍 Thank you.
very informative video; thanks.
may I get your opinion on T182C Airbrush, please? You have it the whole set with the compressor in Walmart for $71.19. Will it do ok for a complete beginner?
Hey Levent. Well I'm sure your going to like my answer, but I really cannot give an honest opinion on that airbrush simply because I have never used it nor do I recognize the brand name. From the images on the Walmart website it does look pretty solid and if the mini air compressor works as described that alone is almost worth the price. You never know until you try it out. It may be a great little setup. I would just make sure that it is returnable if it turns out not to be any good. Also if you do get it. Do yourself a favor and buy some specific airbrush paint when you are first learning. There is no need to put added anxiety on yourself by trying to thin out cheap craft paints at first. I use Createx airbrush paint and make sure you get their thinner as well. The mixture I usually for that is one to two drops of thinner to 5 drops of paint. And don't forget, no matter what paint you are using always strain your paint before loading up your airbrush. If you need strainers check in the description below thus video and I have Link to some great stainless steel strainers from Amazon that I have been using for years. I hope this helps. And thank you for asking a great question. Take care.
@@RoadsAndRailsHobbies wow, Paul. Thank you so much for the quick response. I really appreciate the time you have spent to answer my question. All the best..
Amazing in depth video! I have an issue, I can't find any isopropyl alcohol anywhere in my small town and buying online would cost me way too much due to shipping fees, is it possible to use any other kind of alcohol? Like ethyl or denatured alcohol?
Hey there. Well If I had to choose one. I would use Ethy alcohol. Both ethyl and denatured are similar to isopropyl alcohol. However I would not, I repeat do not use denatured alcohol. It is toxic to humans. You don't even want to touch denatured alcohol with bare skin, let alone take a chance of breathing it in. And speaking of breathing. No matter what alcohol you use, isopropyl or ethyl make sure you wear a respirator. No matter how well ventilated your painting area is. You will be in close proximity to the airbrush and what you are painting. You will still be breathing in the fumes. Thanks for watching and asking a great question. Take care.
@@RoadsAndRailsHobbies thank you so much!
What do you recommend for the Decoart Americana paint for thinning? I put isopropyl alcohol in it and within seconds it turned into something like chewed bubble gum.
I get that sometimes with different colors of Americana and Apple barrel paints also. I would suggest try using just regular water for paints that do that. It usually works since the paints are water based. I have never used decoart paints so I can't be 100 percent sure how well it will work with that brand, but it should since I think they are water based acrylics also. Let me know if it works out with just water. It won't dry as fast as it does using IPA to thin them however. So keep that in mind. Thank you for the great question.
Are there any major differences with the quality of the finish using alcohol vs. water to dilue the paint?
I have not noticed any difference in the quality nor have I noticed any color variations between using alcohol vs water. I just prefer the alcohol simply because it flashes off much faster than water which helps the paint dry faster. Which means I can work faster. Now when I do any weathering / washes using the same acrylics I mix them with water. I think using water for washes gives me more flow and work time. Thanks for commenting.
@@RoadsAndRailsHobbies thank you for taking the time to write a detailed response to my question. Very informative. Great channel. 👍