Miller digital infinity welding hood: Unboxing and initial review
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- Опубликовано: 10 июл 2024
- In this episode we tackle looking at the new miller digital infinity welding hood.
0:00:00 Intro
0:02:43 Close up
0:09:34 Trying it on and headgear
0:16:07 The controls
0:22:06 Conclusion
X Mode is the greatest setting on these helmets. I’ve had the first digital infinity with the clear light 1.0 and it is a bombproof setup. You won’t get any dust on the ADF with how well it’s sealed but it is front heavy so just expect that. The older headgear feels really good but it starts ripping around the edge where the blue rubber is. Overall a 10/10 probably better with this new clear light 2.0
Good to hear the xmode is solid. The clear light 2.0 setup looks really good. In the comparison video I am finishing I will have pictures comparing the same shot with multiple helmets. I have a feeling the millers is the clearest in the non darken shade. I have been a fan of the Viking 3350 for a long time but I might be switching soon, time will tell 😀
I love that helmet and can't wait for the comparison video! Have zero complaints on it.
I've been using the Miller X-mode for years. It keep it in in X-mode all the time, even indoors. You can still get flashed if the sensors get blocked. No flashes with the X.
How’s the battery life in xmode? Good to hear it works well.
Battery life has been very good, can't remember when I last changed them. You are correct, two batteries last a long time. Have a spare cheapie (from HTP) with one smaller battery and 6-7 months with hardly any use and battery died.
@@makingmistakeswithgreg
I’ve been using my hood for two years and dust hasn’t been an issue. Sometimes I have to wipe a film off but that’s only every few months. Great hood though. Would definitely recommend.
Good to hear. Being a Viking 3350 fan for 5-6+ years I didn’t think anything was as good. However testing out the esab sentinel and the miller infinity has shown me there are a ton of things Lincoln doesn’t do. The widescreen viewing is better than the narrow view of the Lincoln. Not to mention the weight/balance of both esab and miller is way better than the Lincoln.
For me they could put any extra money spent on dressing up the pig (graphics, paint, etc.) into the quality of the functions. A plain black matte helmet is just fine with me. I don't have any with the outside grind button but could see now that you mention it that it would be very worthwhile. The headgear could be refined in all of them if they want to spend more on them instead of silly paint and advertising, graphics etc. This fantasy world stuff seems to be creeping into everything and pushing reality out of the way. The other design feature that is lacking in every one I have seen is the ability to put earmuffs for top hearing protection under them. Hard hats, timber falling, etc. helmets all many years ago started offering swivel down ear protection muffs attached right to the hard hat. Welding helmets don't even provide a model with sufficient space to put your own inside. And if they did the headband on the muffs would conflict with the hood headband. I have bought the super slim behind the head band muffs and they still do not fit inside any of the helmets I own. As far as I am concerned that is a real use that should come long before the 'artists' start getting involved and paid. Your hearing is going to be of far more value to you than "looking cool" whatever that means. Stuffing foam in your ear canals is not only not healthy but it is a poor substitute for muffs. ENT docs tell you not to put anything in your ears and doing it off a dirty work bench with dirty fingers with a piece of foam that is covered in grinding dust and chips is asking for problems. So that is not an acceptable alternative to good muffs. They have a long way to go (and what is required is not high end technology) to get to the perfect helmet at which time they can offer and charge for models with comic book crap from fantasies that should have been outgrown. Frills do not make up for function.
The main limitation of ear muffs on a welding helmet is incorporating them within a helmet and not leaving skin exposed to arc burn. I am with you on the ear plugs not being ideal, muffs are much better. Definitely pays to protect your hearing.
That is where the design engineers should put on their thinking caps. There are fire resistant materials that could hood the muffs. I am no helmet engineer and I can think of a couple of solutions off the top of my head, why can't they with fifty years to accomplish it already gone by??
Good point on the grind function.
Nice helmet...$$$🎉
They definitely don’t give them away, but it’s worth it. I wish they were 100$ so everyone could get one without breaking the bank 😀
Hello Greg, enjoyed the review and huge fan of your channel so thank you for putting this out there as a review. I must be completely honest with you, I'm really surprised at your review on this MIller. First, I loved and I mean really loved the paint scheme on this helmet. As a recently retired 24 year Vet, I just signed up for my Fabrication Welding Certificate Course and was looking at purchasing a new helmet for the heck of it (even though my HF helmet) has literally been a workhorse for three years now, so I wanted to shop around. Speaking about the HF helmet, it is one of the top-tiered Vulcan with four sensors, a cheater lens holder built in and an excellent and extremely comfortable headband; all for the incredible price of - half of that Miller! As I peruse the field of helmet products, you mentioned a KEY factor and that is to have a WELD/GRIND button on the outside, and this Miller is a complete miss for that... and that is exactly what I specifically want on a new helmet too. It's absolutely ridiculous. I'm appalled that both Lincoln and Miller can not step off their high horses and produce these helmets at HALF their cost or alternatively UP their qualities in head gear baselines! What in the world does it take for them to see that if you want to pull sales away from these lower priced helmets, you need to provide the few things that would solidify the cost values by a quality, comfortable, stable head gear and a simple W/G button! For clarification, my HF Helmet does not have the external W/G button which is why I'm searching prior to my course class but come to find out that this Miller won't even include that is seriously poor in my opinion.. I can't not justify the costs of their products when nearly identical technologies are already imbued into a line at half the cost. It just doesn't make sense to me and the thousands of other Welders out there on your mirrored point; that because they don't have these couple of essential points in their builds as of 2024 shows me that a paint job just isn't going the distance to win my pocket change over... Thank you much for the excellent review, keep it up Sir!
One of the hard things for Lincoln and miller is the overhead they have to pay for has to be paid for by everything they sell. That forces them to charge more than something is really worth. The great thing is that other companies have caught up and offer a ton of options for capability for far less money. Not that long ago you couldn’t get a legit welding hood or even a tig welder at harbor freight. Now you can buy both of those things and they are really good. It’s a far better time to be into welding because of the plethora of very capable machines and equipment. I will be reviewing some HF helmets too, and I bet they will fair pretty good 😃.
I have an older Miller Infinity with the Clearlight 1.0, and the older headgear.
There is no actual seal around the front lens, it sits in a fairly tight gap, and I have not had any contamination for several years. My first set of batteries lasted 2 years with almost daily use.
The X-Mode is awesome, but adjusting any settings with gloves on is a pain. It’s easier to just take the gloves off.
The grind mode is builtin to the button that toggles thru the various modes, and there is a very tiny red LED that flashes about ever 10 seconds to remind you, but honestly it’s way to small, and not very noticeable unless you try to look for it. I believe the sensors will catch an Arc, and darken the hood as it does for the weld mode. I think I’ve done it a couple times, back in the beginning. It would be a huge upgrade to have an external Grind Button.
I have the older headgear with the funny triangle pad, and honestly I’m not a fan of it.
The good news is Miller just released a replacement Legacy headgear (part number 290460) for $42 and is supposed to incorporate better features and durability.
I just ordered one, and hopefully it will be here next week.
I am looking into getting a new helmet, and it’s come down to the the latest Miller Infinity, the Lincoln Viking 3350, or the 3350ADV like the one you just purchased. I like the technology of the ADV model, and it is said to have top quality clarity, that rivals Miller’s.
I contacted Lincoln to ask a couple questions, and the Rep told me they are working on bringing the previous Viking 3350, up to date with the same digital tech as the ADV version. Hopefully they will do that soon, according to him, and perhaps that cool Steampunk graphic will be available, not that it makes any difference.
I’m very much looking forward the shootout before I make a decision.
Thanks Greg for doing the research, reviews and testing.
Update on Miller’s replacement headgear:
I don’t see a lot of differences (maybe there is a difference in the plastic), that I can tell except for pad on the back of the head is like the new design on Greg’s new infinity.
In my humble Opinion… It Sucks!
I needed a new headgear, so I took parts I liked from my old headgear (top pad and rear cup style pad) and transferred them to the new one.
I much prefer the old style that cups the back of your head, and the top crown pad from my original hood.
I should have just purchased the latest style of my original hood.
Miller Electric 260486 Headgear, Gen IV
That’s not to say some people may prefer the new style, but for me, it wasn’t really better and a waste of time and money given I had to combine new and old parts.
Miller - if you’re listening, you missed the mark guys!
I leave mine on X Mode all the time. As for grind mode I have it on my Esab A50 and I never use it, Prefer ear muffs and safety glasses.
Also I have never tried to adjust the settings on any of my hoods with gloves on, I always take one off to adjust, but then once it is set how you like it why would you have to use a glove to adjust. Now the heavy click on lifting hood to stay open does take some getting used to especially dropping it down,, sometimes I pull too hard and the hood slips on my head. The big plus over my other hoods is the Clear View and wide angle. I can see much better. I have not expirenced any dust in mine and I don't see any reason too. When I grind my hood is not near were I am, just put it somewhere safe, as that might save dust on the innner of the inner lense. I can't see how dust could get in while welding from the front. So far it has been good for me as I have had it only 2 months.
I’ve never used the grind button on my Sentinels either. I prefer a clear mask and ear protection. I do t know how guys use grinders without it. Or for my cutoff saw.
We are idiots that will regret not using ppe when get into our 70s and have to yell to be heard.
@@noahcorbin7664 yeah, I’m in my 70s and I’ve met guys who were smart asses. Not so smart now. The worst are the guys you see here on RUclips who are bikers. They’re usually overweight. They wear stick welding goggles, not a helmet. They wear low cut t-shirts, no gloves and shorts.
I have seen a ton of people on RUclips tig welding with short sleeves and a t shirt. I am not the safest guy in the shop but something about that makes me uneasy. It’s almost guaranteed skin cancer if you do it a lot. Let alone the sun burn in the short time. That’s why I like wearing decent ppe and a respirator, it’s nice to finish the day without a nose full of boogers, a sunburn, and ringing ears lol.
I had no idea they were going back to the previous style rear tensioners. That's awesome! I've never had any issues with my digital elite, an it's got a billion miles on it lol. The other one is functional, an does work, but I've always preferred my old one. Anywho, have a good day,sir, as always
Yeah, miller was advertising all over about going back to it, and I didn’t know they switched. Enough people must have complained about it though. Good for them, if only Lincoln did that too lol.
Hello I have the first generation of this helmet that you're reviewing and there's been some issues with the arc sensitivity when I welded with it compared to my old digital elite. In helmet gear keeps breaking the ratchet and one of the swivel points of the helmet oh and not to mention the back padding area was an issue on the first generation and I'm looking at the Lincoln 3350 advance version possibly to buy.
Miller has upgraded a bunch of stuff on it over the first gen. It (probably) will be more reliable now. The Viking 3350 has been my go to hood for 6-7+ years. It still works, and I have not replaced anything but the batteries. If I were you I would buy the standard 3350 over the adv. the ADVs main advantage is ability to smart phone control and auto shade (where it adjusts up and down in shade by 1-2 shades). I don’t think that is useful enough to pay more money for. The light is decent in a dark spot, I will give it that.
Looking forward to the shootout. I have a digital elite from probably 2010 or 11 with the green lens. I really like the X-mode working outside. Sometimes I have a hard time seeing where I'm going when running a bead though. Interested to see if these have made enough advancements in clarity to justify upgrading.
So I can tell you that shockingly enough even a harbor freight 50$ auto darkening hood has pretty good clarity. I actually bought one to screw around with and was surprised. I am going to try (for a second time) to compare a high end welding hood to a super cheap harbor freight, in a video. In person I can tell the difference but even with a 1200$ camera the difference on film didn’t come out, so I need to experiment some more. The main things you get for the money is bigger viewing area, way better headgear, and better interfaces. However they also tend to weigh more, which isn’t a positive thing.
Another informative video for sure. Doubt I'll spend that much on a helmet for my small hobby stuff, but the X Mode is interesting. The Hobart Impact series hoods also have lenses that come out the front. But you're absolutely correct in the criticism of Miller for no external grind mode switch. The 1/10 the cost Yes Welder hood has that, plus all the other adjustments are external as well. And the lens module does NOT contain the battery. It's on the backside of the external adjustment pod. That's one thing I don't like about the Hobart, having to pull the lens module out to change the darn battery...
Great video Greg been looking to upgrade my helmet I have a basic Miller now An it’s fuzzy with th sun light I like that new Lincoln 3350 but what’s ur thoughts on th ArcOne BFFVX-1555? I will wait on th next video An make a final choice but this Miller might be th clear winner 🙌🏽🙌🏽🙌🏽
I should have the comparison video out Sunday. I have never used the arc one, in the future I may pick one up. I am not sure which hood out of the esab-miller-Lincoln will come out ontop in the shootout at this point. I can say they are all excellent but I definitely think the miller is probably the best. We will see 😀
Lets start with what a great over all review of the helmet. I do a lot of ship and yacht repairs. I weld at least once a month. Every two years i do steel hull commercial vessel. I own a miller digital elite, a digital performance, a pro hobby (no longer available.) I have a small head and face. The GVS masks do not fit well in any miller helmets. The batteries go quick. it uses two and they are not cheap. If you are doing any overhead, gouging heavy grinding, or anything that gets on the lens, open you wallet. The lens kits are currently $15 per two or three. You will use one or two per day. For what ever reason. When welding out doors the light comes in no matter what. I find myself staring at my nose hairs a lot. When you have to switch between grind and weld all day long. You have to shove your fat glove up between your mask and lid all day long. I have never had a issue with dust getting in between the lenses. The head gear. The one that was discontinued. The upper strap grabbed the upper part of the helmet on some models. I use the washable sweat o pads for the sweat bands. So soft. The expensive helmets are HEAVY. If you have neck problems you will hurt at the end of the day. For tig welding i enjoy my digital performance. Its the lightest. I don't know why but all the miller lenses have a green light to them. Clear view just not what is advertised. So what is in my truck everyday? A Honeywell tiger hood. With a arc one lens. I have other lenses that can tig. No batteries, cheap lenses, and super light weight. Coming in sub $130.00. For a weekend warrior or a indoor shop. Yah gets your self a toy. For actually iron workers save the money.
whoops sorry lenses are True arc
I love the digital series but I went with the elite couldn't convince myself to sirens and extra hundred for a slight larger window
The viewing area definitely isn’t a huge deal. The main benefit is using it as a grinding shield, the wider field of view doesn’t make much difference when welding. For 100$ difference it’s not much more capability like you said.
Those three helmets have quite different construction so it would be curious to see how you could do basic maintenance operations on them(front and back clear covers change, battery change). On cheaper ones you usually need to remove headgear to comfortably do any maintenance and you end up with a pile of plastic parts from headgear, always thrilling! 🙂 On some helmets removing and reinstalling ADF into a shell is tricky(especially if it has external controls), chances to make a mark with greasy fingers is high.
So I forgot to test that in the video that’s out shortly. However I can tell you the esab is really easy to swap batteries. The Lincoln is a bit harder than the miller but both are pretty easy. I will have to do a video showing simple maintenance of the 3 of them for sure. 👍
@@makingmistakeswithgreg that would be great, thank you! 👍
I like the look od that helmet. The weight and headgear are key for me. Grind buttons, some are better than others. I have one helmet with with a clunky, cheap nasty sliding switch and a different brand helmet with a positive click press on/off button. My Jackson Translight helmets don't have a grind mode so I am not too bothered about grind buttons. Flame cutting function is more useful to me. That Miller helmet is £300+VAT (£350) here in the UK so not cheap but not the most expensive.
The weight and balance of the esab sentinel is probably the best out of them. The miller is pretty good. The Lincoln 3350 is definitely front heavy. A few ounces difference can really make a difference in neck pain after a day. Great thought on the cutting switch. I am not sure any of them can be programmed to switch to that with a button but the miller can switch to it easily. Almost all of the newer ones are far better than the older style with little knobs like my older Lincoln 3350.
Great series, just wish you didn't have to go on the lam. Take your shed and camera!
The old head gear doesn’t stay on your head very well, currently daily driving it. It will if you really tighten it. But you will get hot spots after a few hours.
So do you have the same head gear or the one miller switched to only to go to the one in the video? It seems like an enough people didn’t like the one they switched too, so they are back with the one in the video. It’s tough to figure out which are the best specific miller head gears since there are so many different ones. I know the new Viking 3350 headgear seems worse than the old one I have. Crazy to think something as simple as a headgear could get screwed up lol.
😂 right.
I have the one that is different to the one you currently have. I am picking up the new design today to see the difference. Keep in mind, it’s not a bad headgear. However, the premium price really makes the ok performance stand out in a negative way.
Definitely let me know what you think of the “new old” if it’s better. I am editing the comparison video of the 3 hoods I bought and I will mention your thoughts on the replacement headgear 👍
Based on about 6 hours of use. It’s much stiffer than the non-legacy. It stays on my head about 50% better. Also the band sits better when you have a ball cap on compared to the non-legacy. The legacy also stows better and the hood up lock is about 10-20% stronger than mine. Which could be because of how old mine is. I do like the knobs on the non-legacy better however. I swapped the legacy ones out. The non-legacy attachment for the top of the band is much more comfortable that the one that comes with the legacy. Not really sure why.
👍👍😎👍👍
😂ya killin me wit the new classy hoods, I’m drueling over here, I used my buddies used Miller infinity like that and it was like heaven, that’s why I wanna get that storm trooper one you just got a few days ago cause I can weld ten times better using my buddies Miller compared to my cheesemaster hoods I got now, I can’t see shit
If you can’t see it you can’t weld it lol. I am finishing editing the comparison video between all of the new ones I have. Needless to say they are all excellent. The esab has grown on me quite a bit. I honestly thought it was more of a joke but after using it quite a bit I realized it’s actually an excellent performer.
@@makingmistakeswithgreg see brother I told ya that thing was solid and will run with the big boys no problem
I’m still trying to get that Miller raptor edition one off marketplace the things like new
you should do engine drives next.Miller pipepro vs Lincoln SA300. No?
I would love to do that, the only engine drives I have access to are big millers over 500amps. If I had to pick between the two if I was welding pipe the sae300 would be the better. I bet it has cleaner dc output and a much simpler (aka reliable) design. For general fabrication/repair/arc gouging I rather have the pipe pro. Honestly I am more of a Lincoln fan when it comes to engine drives, which is interesting because most other things I like miller.
"Seven"!
Hey Gregg let me know if you wanna sell me your old steam punk Lincoln hood, that Miller raptor hood I ordered the dude screwed me and as soon as I sent him the money he blocked me and never sent me the hood bro 😕 freaking sad how shitty people can be man but oh well. I thought since maybe you got like 3-4 new helmets now ya might help a brother out
So that hood is being used right now, it’s my “work” hood. I will have a video out soon testing a bunch of 50$ 100$ welding hoods. If any of them are decent and you want one of them, I will send you one for free. I need the expensive ones I bought to test for 3 months to give an update opinion. Look for the video in about a week and comment on it 👍
@@makingmistakeswithgreg bummer. Yea thanks I already got two of the cheaper ones, one of the Lincoln ones that’s like 130.00 and then a Amazon one and I just wanna get one of the nicer ones like any of those 3, but okay man no sweat, illl find something
Actually I just won a eBay auction for that 3350 clone from Vulcan that everyone says it’s like exactly the same as the Lincoln 3350, except it’s 150.00 bucks, so we shall see. But I’ve seen prolly ten videos where people have both the Lincoln and the Vulcan and they swear they wish that had just bought two Vulcan arc then spending the money on th3 3350
@makingmistakeswithgreg review an Optrel Helix or Panomaraxx.
I really want to get one but the prices of their best are absurdly high. I will have to post a poll soon to see what people want me to do. It’s one of those things I have a feeling there is no way the hood lives up to its price lol.
@@makingmistakeswithgreg Understood, and thanks for the reply.
Now I’m super heart broken, this is the helmet 🪖 I thought I was getting this weekend; the one I told you about but people are always trying to scam folks